Weeping Willow Bonsai Care & Styling

The Cool Refreshing WEEPING WILLOW

Bonsai Care & Styling

By Hideo Kato Translated By Craig W. Risser

There is probably little time or space

for feelings like this in today’s hectic world. Nonetheless, the image of the Weeping willow bending with the river breeze is something that lives in the hearts of people as an image of summer.

A Willow branch with a swallow perched on it drooping over the water is an image often seen in advertisements trying to promote some product that coolly refreshes one from the heat of summer. That is because there is an association between “Willows” and “coolness” deeply rooted in the consciousness of the Japanese people for sumertime appreciation.

There are many species of willow and when you simply say “Willow” it usually refers to Weeping willow, Salix babylonica. In the world of bonsai as well, Willow bonsai generally denotes bonsai that have been developed with Weeping willow. The cultivar ‘Rokkakudo’ is representative of the Weeping willow used for training bonsai.

I raise many types of Weeping willows as well as the ‘Rokkakudo’ Weeping willow and dwarf varieties. In this article I would like to discuss the care and styling of the weeping willow. Hopefully, you will want to train a Willow as a bonsai evoking coolness.

The Progress Of Willow Bonsai

In the old days there were some pretty good Weeping willow bonsai. That is probably because bonsai were different in those days. There was a certain luxury in interpreting taste and refinement and Weeping willow was a popular floral pattern of the season. A Weeping willow would grace a water basin with a miniature grass planted at the base and this would be a way of enjoying summer.

Nowadays, when we think of summer we tend to think of the bother of watering and fertilizing and the summer doldrums in bonsai display, since is not a popular display period. However, when we have come this far with bonsai, we in the world of bonsai need to be able to relax enough to appreciate the pleasures of the season.

In addition, bonsai is now not just something Japanese but has become international. In this sense, Willow are the most suitable species for expressing the coolness desired in the summer.

The cultivar ‘Rokkakudo’ with its dwarf characteristics is suitable for both medium size and miniature bonsai.

The chief Weeping willow used for bonsai training is the Rokkakudo willow, Salix babylonica ‘Rokkakudo’. While the branches of common Weeping willow droop, if the umbrella canopy of the branches hang down too much it is not good. Rokkakudo Weeping willow is the best for producing height while giving character to the pendulous branches.

I have a variety of this Weeping willow that has dwarf characteristics. The leaves are smaller than the usual variety and the small branches have a strong reddish cast. It is like a dwarf or “yatsubusa” cultivar. It is attractive even when grown small. There are other Willow varieties that can be used for either medium or large size bonsai as well.

We have had a specimen tree that has these dwarf characteristics since I was a child. I remember my father, Tomekichi Kato, saying “Take good care of this one.”

I do not know the exact origin of this specimen but I think it is a natural sport from ‘Rakkakudo’ Weeping willow. Since it was a sport that was good for use as bonsai, my father who discovered it took good care of it as a specimen. There may be some others that exist that are similar to it but I have not seen them.

I have not taken any great pains to care for this Weeping willow with dwarf characteristics and have just somehow kept it going and fortunately managed to plant it in the garden. If I had kept it in a container it probably

would not have survived. Weeping willows like water and fertilizer and what is most difficult for them is to dry out during the summer. Although I planted it in the ground, it did not thicken like a normal tree would.

Although the leaves are small, the bark is the same as on the common Weeping willow and does not thicken and become scaly. Those that have bark that thickens and becomes scaly will sometimes die suddenly and are not long lived. The variety with dwarf characteristics does not have that problem and it is easy to grow.

From Cuttings to Planting Into Containers

All Willows are easy to propagate and the Weeping willow and its dwarf variety are not exceptions. Weeping willow may be propagated by cutting and doing so is very simple. It is commonly known that branches placed in a container of water will form roots after some time passes.

Of course you may use a cutting flat too, but if you do you must be especially careful to ensure that the rooting mix never dries out. That is because Weeping willows required more moisture than other species.

Weeping willow, Salix sp. grown and trained in Europe and displayed at the Noelanders Cup Show. Willow bonsai are also appreciated in winter with the long hanging branches.

In this respect placing the cutting in a container of water will eliminate the need to be concerned about drying out. Whether you try ten or 20, or whatever number, you should have a 100% success rate.

The best time to root Willow cuttings is June, at the beginning of the rainy season in early summer. However, if you start earlier or later than this the cuttings will still root.

Use second or third year growth for cuttings. Normally young branches are used for cuttings, but with Weeping willow older branches will root more quickly. Third year growth can be quite large and this provides a shortcut to developing a tree in a shorter period of time. You do not need to worry too much about the length of cuttings as comparatively long sections may be rooted. But rather than using a straight section, look for one that has some curves which will be useful in future styling of the tree.

One of the basics for taking cuttings is to cut off one-half to twothirds of large leaves before planting. When rooting in a container of water remove one-third of the leaves if they plant is growing normally and onehalf of the foliage if they are large because of recent fertilizing.

You do not need to cut off leaves of the variety with dwarf characteristics

Transplanting To A Container

Roots will develop in a week or two. When propagating in a container of water, you will be able to see the root development. Transplant the cutting into a container when white roots appear (which look like vermicelli).

Use a deep earthenware container for a training pot. One reason that you want a deep pot is that the tree needs lots of water. The other reason is that you need a container with height since the branches will hang down.

The plan will begin to grow vigorously after potting. However, for the initial stages, cover the surface of the container and the base of the trunk with long-fibered sphagnum moss and the plant will thrive as a result of this extra consideration.

The most important point during the first year after transplanting to a container is to allow the Weeping willow to develop strength and grow vigorously. To give the tree strength the branches should be allowed to grow without interruption and this will delay styling of the tree.

Nonetheless, first allowing the tree to develop strength and then in the following year styling it carefully will complete the tree so that it can be enjoyed more rapidly than otherwise. Do not fertilize the planting for about a month after transplanting to a container. Give it fertilizer for the first time after observing and determining that the new shoots are growing vigorously.

Giving The Trunk Some Curves By Wiring

Before fertilizing, give the trunk some curves by wiring. Weeping willows do not look good as formal uprights and exposed root and stump style are also not suitable. A Weeping willow normally has some curves in the trunks with its branches hanging pendulously. Give it some gentle curves, not abrupt or contorted shapes.

The following is something that applies to the training of all trees, that is that training, specifically giving the trunk some curves, should be done as early as possible. If this is done the tree will be better in the future; that is probably because of the adaptability of the trees. Such operations cannot normally be done so early on other species, but with Weeping willow there is no problem.

In a month or month and a half, the trunk form will become permanent and the wire can be removed.

Line Flow – The Essence of Shaping Weeping Willow

Line is what is unique to Weeping willow. Rather than strength, it is the appeal of the flow of fine lines that we notice. Keep this “essence of Willow” in mind when shaping them. When there are too many branches and they are fouled a Weepinng willow will not look right. When there are too few branches a Weepinng willow will look like a comb with missing teeth. The proper balance can be found in harmonizing the thickness of the trunk, the height of the tree and the branches.

This is true not only of Weepinng willows but of bonsai in general. It is important to harmonize the number of branches and the placement of them with the present height of the tree. This is a matter of training the eye and is a matter of experience and sense. It is not a matter of a certain number of branches for every inch of height.

For example, if there are too many branches for the height of the tree the crown will tend to stand out too much and will seem like a heavy cap on the tree. It will not have good

Rokakudo Weeping willow, Salix babylonica ‘Rokakudo, trained in the slanting style on a rock. Displayed with a glazed light colored water basin it provides both moisture to the bonsai and a suggestion of water to the viewer.

NATURE & BONSAI PHOTOS

line but will look like a clump or cluster.

Another important bonsai point is how far to go in removing what is not necessary. Branches are not left like wild plants growing in nature. One of the principles of bonsai is to remove what is not necessary.

I think it is necessary in bonsai to know how to utilize the gaps between branches properly and how to bring out the individuality of each branch.

You will probably think that this is something difficult but eliminating what is not necessary is most important for maintaining the health of a bonsai. If there are too many branches the inner recesses of the tree will be crowded and the branches will not be exposed to sunlight evenly. Insect infestations are more likely to occur.

Remove Unnecessary Buds and Branches

There are two ways to deal with unnecessary branches. One is to quickly remove them and this is good for the tree. When this is done, branches you need will grow at the base of the branch. Buds will form and also grow on the trunk. These should be removed as soon as they are noticed.

There are also buds that form but that do not break or grow into shoots. These are just a bother, detract from the appearance of the bonsai and should also be removed.

The other way to remove buds and branches is when you want the tree to develop vigor and want the unnecessary branch to grow to enhance the shape of the tree. When you do this you remove the branch after your goal has been achieved. Particularly when you are first determining the branching for a tree you need to allow branches to extend more than normally in order to allow the tree to develop strength.

When you allow them to grow without restriction the branches and trunk will develop vigor and will mature into a desired shape to some degree. When you make certain of that and the tree is growing vigorously, remove the branch or cut back the new shoots that grew.

Shaping With Wire

Although the ‘Rokkakudo’ Weeping willow is a cultivar of Weeping willow, the angle that the branches hang down, the space between the branches and their directions must all be adjusted. If the branches hang down in a way that is suitable to the curve in the trunk then the tree will have overall balance.

Nowadays aluminum wire which is easy to work with is available so use that for shaping. After the tree is planted in a container and new shoots elongate, apply the wire. The new shoots are slender and still soft and there will be no problem if the branch is bent before it matures.

Though the wire will cut into the bark quickly (in less than a month) the shape will also harden quickly. Remove the wire immediately before it is about to cut into the bark.

If there is a branch which destroys the balance of one or two branches rewire that branch after first removing the other wire. You may rewire in June and July.

Be sure not to allow wire cuts to form since scars heal slowly on Weepinng willow.

Watering Willow Bonsai

The most important thing in caring for Weepinng willow is to not allow them to dry out. Willows really like water. You must be especially vigilant when the pendulous branches begin to grow and the tree becomes active. You may prevent Weeping willows from drying out in the summer by placing the containers in a vessel that contains water (like a water basin) that will allow the tree to take up water from the bottom of the container which is immersed in the water. Though you do not need to worry that much about it in the winter they still should not be allowed to dry out.

Fertilizer

If sufficient fertilizer is given to a Willow along with water it will grow vigorously. The roots will literally come to the fertilizer and come up under the fertilizer ball just like fish being fed. Weeping willows have such an appetite for fertilizer.

After the tree has been transplanted and you can tell that the tree has exhausted all the fertilizer that it was given in the first application, fertilize twice a month until summer. You may fertilize during the summer rainy season too. If you do this with other trees the roots will rot but it is okay

Rokakudo Weeping willow, Salix babylonica ‘Rokakudo, trained with three trunks and shown on a tall display table so the long delicate branches can be enjoyed.

with Weepinng willow because the roots are strong.

After summer has passed (after August) the branches will no longer grow and the tree will slow down so fertilize once a month.

Growing Location

Although the most important things to keep in mind for Weeping willows are water and fertilizer, the growing location is also important. Often a tree that likes water will be found growing naturally in a place where there is shade for half of the day so when Weeping willow are grown as bonsai one would assume that they should be placed in a location where they also have shade for half the day. However Weeping willows grow well in sunny locations and may be left out on tables all summer long.

In areas of mild winters, Weeping willows may also be left out during the winter but you will to protect them from the drying winds because they cannot take drying out.

The variety with dwarf characteristics which has finer foliage and branch tips than the normal variety should be protected from the frost. It is said that trees with fine branch tips (Japanese gray-bark elm as well) “catch cold.” The fine branch tips do not develop and are damaged in winter. These trees should be placed in a cold frame. There is no need to heat them however.

Pests And Diseases

Weeping willow become infested with ladybugs and aphids. Preventative spraying is common nowadays and Willows should also be sprayed in this way. Spray with Malathion the first time after the leaves have come out and spray twice a month from June through August.

Transplanting Willow Bonsai

The Weeping willow is a tree which grows vigorously and should be transplanted each year. The best time to transplant is around the time of the Vernal Equinox just prior to the appearance of new growth. If you cannot do it then you may also transplant at the beginning of the rainy season.

The roots will completely fill a container in one year. They should be carefully untangled and at least one-third should be removed. Old branches should be trimmed back to two or three buds at the time of transplanting.

When the new shoots have grown about seven inches after cutting back, unnecessary branches should be removed as explained before, and styling with wire should be done.

Three years after propagating by cutting, Weeping willows will have a general shape and may be transplanted into a display container. The dwarf cultivars may require several more years to reach the desired trunk diameter.

Weeping willow bonsai are a variety with the added convenience of being quick to develop.

Editor’s Note: This article has been reprinted with the permission of Akira Shimizu, Editor of Nature And Bonsai (Shizen To Bonsai) magazine. It first appearred in the July 1980 issue in Japanese and in the1997/NO 2 issue. The author, Hideo Kato was the proprietor of Yagumo Mansei-en Bonsai Garden in Omiya Bonsai Vilage. Japan. He was a prolific writer and authored many artilcles on Trident maple and Horneam bonsai in past issues.

Rokakudo Weeping willow, Salix babylonica ‘Rokakudo, in the Montreal Botanic Bonsai Collection.

Rokakudo Weeping willow, Salix babylonica ‘Rokakudo, displayed with a grass planting of Hakonechloa and a viewing stone. This display is excellent for sumer enjomyent.

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