Food In The Hills | Spring-Summer 2013 by In The Hills Magazine

SP R ING|S U M M E R 2013

Sharing the harvest Farmgate chicken

A Caledon wedding Ode to a kitchen

Rhapsody in Rhubarb

On-site organic garden

And the conversation begins “There is a wave building of a food culture in this country that links urban people to the farm, and this is an example of how that’s going to drive legislation.” Rene Van Acker, professor of agriculture, University of Guelph speaking at the Taters not Craters party, February 2013

If you live in the Headwaters

Food In The Hills editor Cecily Ross is the former food and wine editor of The Globe and Mail and author of Love in the Time of Cholesterol, a memoir with recipes.

region, you know all about the surprise capitulation last fall of the Highland Companies’ proposal to build a 2,316-acre quarry in Melancthon Township. As good as this news was to opponents of the plan, the anti-quarry forces have no intention of laying down their arms in the battle to preserve the prime farmland still under siege by Ontario’s voracious and ongoing demands for aggregate. Without missing a beat NDACT (North Dufferin Agricultural and Community Taskforce) relaunched its highly effective Stop the Quarry movement under the Food and Water First banner. You may have already noticed the signature red and white lawn signs popping up in your area. It goes without saying that we here at Food In The Hills are committed to the idea that food and water are of primary importance, and that their preservation should be high on any locavore’s agenda. More than half of Canada’s scarce Class 1 farmland is located here in Southern Ontario. And it is rapidly being paved over. As freelance writer Tim Shuff notes in his thoroughly researched article, “The Battle Shifts Gears” (In The Hills, Spring 2013), Ontario’s $33 billion agri-food sector is dependent on a tiny and rapidly shrinking land base. Indeed, between 1996 and 2001, 16 per cent of Southern Ontario’s farmland was swallowed by urban development. If, as Abra Brynne, a researcher with Food Secure Canada contends, it takes anywhere from 160 to 200 years to build an inch of topsoil, then our policy makers are frittering away a resource that cannot be readily replaced.

Still, unless urban growth is radically curtailed, the demand for the aggregate needed to satisfy the insatiable demands of growth in the province will have to be met somehow. NDACT’s proposed changes to the Aggregate Resources Act, which would make farmland off limits to aggregate development, could have dire consequences for an industry already facing severe supply shortages. There are no easy answers. But whatever comes to pass, NDACT’s successful (for now) routing of the Melancthon mega quarry proposal is indisputable evidence that our collective relationship with food has changed forever – and, we believe, it is a change for the better. More than ever, Canadians care about their food and where it comes from. And premier Kathleen Wynne’s promise to introduce a Local Food Act, which would make locally produced food available in markets, schools, cafeterias and grocery stores, is one more indication that the tide has turned. In our view, one of the most encouraging outcomes of the mega quarry battle is that it has started a conversation between farmers and consumers that is going to be heard in Queen’s Park and beyond now and for years to come.

cecily@inthehills.ca

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

a taste of our spring|summer issue 33 | Sweet and Sour The ﬁrst vegetable to appear in your spring garden makes a perfect companion for pork or pie. Jennifer Clark has the lowdown on versatile rhubarb – where it came from, how to grow it, and

rhubarb for dinner

pete paterson

why we love it so.

country wedding 49 | Under the Caledon Sun At Renae and Darren’s hilltop wedding, guests could easily imagine they were gazing out over the fertile vistas of Tuscany. And then there was the food –

their favourite Bolton caterer.

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

fresh images photogr aphy

true Italian with a twist, from

pete paterson

café kitchen 44 | The Love Song of Eddie Corners What better way to measure out your life than with coffee spoons? An Erin barista’s dream kitchen is pure poetry. By Nicola Ross.

more seasonal specials

always on the menu

Where’s the Chicken? | 12 All around Headwaters region small producers are raising happy birds that taste better than anything you’ll ever buy in a supermarket. Tim Shuff reports.

Off the Shelf | 10 Goodies and gadgets for cooks on the go.

The Kohlrabi Challenge | 16 Become a Community Shared Agriculture member and learn about veggies you never knew existed. Jeff Rollings did. Art and Soul Food | 25 Monica Duncan offers up a taste of the action at Cuisine-Art, the Alton Mill’s summer culinary/ culture extravaganza. Here’s the Scoop | 29 Impress your friends and family this summer with homemade ice cream. It’s easier than you think. By Jennifer Clark.

Onion Index | 54 All about Allium cepa. What’s Cooking Calendar | 56 Food events this spring and summer. End Note | 61 Dan Needles’ lament for local abattoirs. Best Bites | 62 Reggae wraps at Soulyve.

Cooking With Caesar | 38 Who doesn’t love doughnuts? Creemore Kitchen’s Chef Caesar Guinto walks you through his surprisingly easy variations on a deep-fried delight. spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

™

volume 3 number 1 | spring summer 2013

Food In The Hills is an independent local magazine published twice yearly in mid May and mid August. It is a sister publication to In The Hills. 10,000 copies are distributed through restaurants, inns, specialty food stores, markets and tourism locations throughout the Headwaters region. publisher Signe Ball editor Cecily Ross oper ations manager Kirsten Ball art direc tor Kim van Oosterom Wallﬂower Design web manager Valerie Jones Echohill Inc.

editorial Jennifer Clark Monica Duncan Caesar Guinto Sam Holwell Dan Needles Jeff Rollings Nicola Ross Tim Shuff copy editor Janet Dimond

photogr aphers fresh images photography MK Lynde Pete Paterson

advertising sales Sarah Aston Roberta Fracassi

food st ylist Jane Fellowes

advertising produc tion Marion Hodgson Type & Images

cover Fresh rhubarb by Jane Fellowes and Pete Paterson

to advertise Erin Woodley 519-307-0769 erin@inthehills.ca

events editor Janet Dimond

let ters Letters to the editor are welcome; email cecily@inthehills.ca

advertising deadline The advertising deadline for the Autumn|Winter issue is Friday, July 13, 2013. subscrip tions Subscriptions are $11.30 per year (includes hst).

published by MonoLog Communications Inc RR 1, Orangeville Ontario L9W 2Y8 519-940-3299 519-940-9266 fax info@inthehills.ca www.foodinthehills.ca www.inthehills.ca www.kidsinthehills.ca

We acknowledge the assistance of the OMDC Magazine Fund, an initiative of Ontario Media Development Corporation.

Summer Camp 9 to 12 years - “From Dirt to Delicious” Fun with local food at Palgrave Kitchen and Albion Hills Community Farm

$150, July 22 to 26 www.palgravekitchen.org 905-880-0303

Wednesday, June 5 - Albion Hills Community Farm AGM Join Sarah Elton CBC locavore who will be selling and signing copies of her book “Consumed: Sustainable Food for a Finite Planet” Credit card or cash $27, Locavore $16, 6:30 pm book signing, 7:00 pm Sarah Elton & AGM, refreshments Palgrave United Church Community Kitchen, 34 Pine Avenue www.albionhillscommunityfarm.org

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

off the shelf Our roundup of fabulous quality items produced produce by local artisans

Sweet Saga

All you add is meat, ﬁsh, tofu or veggies and Eudora’s does the rest. The Brampton-based purveyor of sauces and chutneys has been bottling the fresh tastes of India since 2008. Our favourite is Khaldin, a heady blend of coconut, cilantro, green chilies, ginger and garlic that’s sweet and spicy with just the right amount of heat. Eudora’s uses only the freshest ingredients (no additives) and simmers them slowly for an authentic homemade taste. Sauté some shrimp or chicken, add the sauce, and serve with rice or naan and a dollop of Eudora’s mango chutney on the side. It’s that easy. Other delicious sauces include tomato chutney, carrot pickle, coconut curry, green curry, vindaloo, kofta curry and butter chicken. Gift baskets are also available. All Eudora’s Fine Foods products are available online (www.eudorafoods.com) or at Harmony Whole Foods, Dave’s Butcher Shop and the Orangeville Farmers’ Market.

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

A Taste of Greece You will never buy commercial yogurt again after you’ve tasted Sheldon Creek Dairy’s rich and creamy Greek-style BONJON yogurt. We particularly love the chocolate ﬂavour made from non-homogenized whole milk, dark cocoa, cane sugar and sea salt. It’s so decadent you’ll be serving it for dessert at your next dinner party. Sheldon Creek yogurt also comes in chocolatemocha, raspberry, vanilla and plain ﬂavours. And besides enjoying the superlative taste, you can rest assured it’s all local, made at the den Haan family farm near Alliston from milk produced by their happy grass-fed Holstein cows. You can buy BONJON yogurt at the Sheldon Creek Dairy, the Rosemont General Store, Hockley General Store, Dave’s Butcher Shop in Orangeville, Garden Foods in Bolton, Howard the Butcher in Caledon East, Broadway Farm’s Market in Caledon, the 100 Mile Store in Creemore and many other Headwaters locations. For details visit www.sheldoncreekdairy.ca.

vinarterta imagesbypaulo.com

Currying Flavour

Every Icelandic-Canadian household has its own recipe for vinarterta, a jamfilled, multilayered cake traditionally served on special holidays and at Christmas. And while the merits of one filling or flavouring over another can be the subject of vigorous debate in Canada’s Icelandic community, Icelanders in the know say Alton resident Arden Jackson’s version is the best they’ve ever tasted. We would have to agree the recipe her amma (grandmother) brought to Riverton, Manitoba in 1876 is irresistible. The seven-layer white cake, cardamom-laced prune filling and thick buttercream icing infused with Madagascar vanilla and Reyka vodka is not just delicious, it’s beautiful to look at as well. Oddly, the vinarterta tradition has all but died out in Iceland itself, but thanks to pioneer-minded bakers like Arden, the so-called striped cake is alive and well in the New World. You can order one of these extraordinary cakes for your next holiday celebration (or maybe just for fun) in four different sizes at www.vinarterta.ca. Skol!

Grill some Ontario Goodness... and savour the sweetness of the season!

Get your grill on and satisfy the cravings of summer with Ontario Natural’s 100% organically raised all-natural beef. Available in ready to grill patty format (packs of 4) or lean ground beef (1 lb packages), you can turn your family BBQ recipes into the star of the summer grill season. Top off summer entertaining with Ontario Natural’s ﬂash frozen fruits. Vine ripened Ontario Strawberries, Saskatoon Berries and Rhubarb are ready to eat out of the package and let you enjoy the goodness of Home Grown in your seasonal drink and dessert recipes. And, they are a good source of source of Vitamin C, ﬁbre and antioxidants!

Visit OntarioNatural.ca for full product listing and great recipe ideas.

Eat Local. Buy Local.

Naturally!

Fostering a sustainable food system by bringing you healthy foods from family farms close to home.

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

Sourcing local, sustainably raised chicken is a lot harder than it should be | by tim shuff

whereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the chicken?

Maximum number of chickens nonquota producers are allowed to raise: 300 Minimum number of chickens quota producers must raise: 90,000

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

We crunch up a gravel driveway near Mono Mills where Donnyweir Poultry Farm sits tidily folded into the Niagara Escarpment, and spill out of the minivan to be greeted, to the delight of my preschool-aged children, by farm dogs

photo pete paterson

and peacocks and a gaggling flock of orange-footed Aylesbury ducks. Gerald Donnelly produces a capon out of the freezer in the garage, and two-dozen brown eggs from his mixture of heritage breed layers. The capon lived and ran about these hills alongside Donnelly’s New Hampshire and barred rock hens, scratching in the grass and eating bugs, and generally being a chicken for a good five-and-a-half months before making its way into the freezer. That’s 23 long weeks of exercise and sunshine to the conventional bird’s 8 to 14 in a cramped, dark barn. Donnelly, who has been raising chickens for most of his 75 years, insists the slower growth imparts a flavour and texture most consumers today have never had the pleasure of tasting. “I’ve only had one customer in all these years who said they couldn’t eat it – it just tastes too much like chicken.” As for those “non-tasty things” raised in long barns, he says, “I don’t care how many herbs you put on, it’s still not good meat. If the public found out there’s a real tasty bird that might be available, they’d never sell any of that crap.” We are on the road hunting for such tasty things, my family and I, because these chickens will not – legally cannot – come to us, or a store near us, or even a farmers’ market. Chicken production, like milk, is a supplymanaged commodity, a quota system managed by the Chicken Farmers of Ontario. Started in the 1970s to ensure price stability for farmers, somewhere along the way the system began to favour large-scale, established producers. With few exceptions, farmers who want to raise chickens must buy a minimum quota equivalent to about 90,000 birds a year – an expensive initiation that makes the enterprise

industrial scale from the get-go. There are only 1,000 commercial chicken farms in Ontario producing an average of 200,000 birds a year each – 30,000-plus at a time, over and over again. But there is a loophole. Since 2007 the CFO has allowed anyone to raise up to 300 chickens a year without quota. However, the birds can only be sold from the farm gate – not through any store or farmers’ market – and they can’t be advertised. (Similar arcane rules govern the sale of eggs, which is why I seize the chance to pick up fresh ones from Donnelly.) Nearly 10,000 people in Ontario take advantage of this small flock exemption to raise about 700,000 chickens a year, a mere blip in the industry’s 200 million, but enough to provide an alternative for consumers willing to seek them out. Through word of mouth and the Eat Local Caledon website (eatlocalcaledon.org), I quickly find several farmers who will sell me whole chickens for $3.50 to $5 a pound, well below grocery store prices for “naturally raised” or organic chicken. None are certified organic, but some could be. Their methods could be billed as permaculture or biodynamic, “beyond organic” or just plain old school. Some, like Jamie Richards of Hockley Valley’s Am Braigh Farm and Amy Ouchterlony and Graham Corbett of Fiddle Foot Farm in Mulmur, supplement vegetable businesses with chickens raised in movable coops or “chicken tractors.” These “pastured chickens” are always rotating onto fresh grass and get 20 to 30 per cent of their diet from plants and bugs. Richards raises white rocks – the standard fast-growing breed – using conventional feed. Ouchterlony and Corbett have opted for heavy reds,

continued on nex t page

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

where ’s the chicken?

Gerald Donnelly with one of his prized Brahma chickens: “A ﬂavour and texture most consumers have never had the pleasure of tasting.”

Some of the places (at least the ones we know about) where you can buy farmgate chicken in the Headwaters region. Donnyweir Poultry Farm 19353 Glen Haffy Rd Caledon 905-584-2470 Amaranth Springs 554090 MonoAmaranth Townline 519-942-4716 www.amaranthsprings.ca Am Braigh Farm 873393 5th Line Mono 519-941-9089 www.ambraighfarm.com Knollbrook Farms 142239 Dufferin Rd 5 Grand Valley 519-928-3354 www.knollbrookfarms. blogspot.com Stone Valley Springs 142360 15 Sideroad East Garafraxa 519-546-3382 Mansfield Heritage Farm 588383 County Rd 17 Mansfield 705-434-2461 www.mansfieldheritagefarm.ca Fiddle Foot Farm 796530 3rd Line EHS Mulmur 519-925-3225 www.fiddlefootfarm.com Willowlane Farm 587499 County Rd 17 Mulmur 519-925-2887 www.willowlanefarm.ca

a slower-growing heritage breed, and use only organic feed. There is decent chicken to be found in stores – for a price – depending what you’re looking for. Broadway Farm’s Market (www.broadwayfarms.com) and Heatherlea Farm Market (www.heatherlea farmmarket.ca) in Caledon source their birds fresh and direct from local quota farmers they’ve met. Heatherlea proprietor Pat McArthur ensures the chickens they sell have been raised free range, without antibiotics or animal byproducts, and with high-quality feed including flax for omega-3s. Like Donnelly, McArthur selects slower growing chickens and says hers are “a different product altogether” compared to grocery store birds. Harmony Whole Foods (harmonymarket. com) in Orangeville recently decided to sell only organic chicken, with certification that ensures certain nutrition and living standards are met – organic birds require more space and light, as well as outdoor access. Prices range from about $5.50 to over $8 a pound. Similarly the Creemore 100 Mile Store

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

(www.100milestore.ca) buys chicken from Wellington County Mennonite farms that coowner Jackie Durnford deems to be on the “smaller end of large.” It’s the next best thing to what she would really like to sell but can’t, birds raised very locally in a fashion that can’t be summed up by any grocery store label. “The ones that I want to buy are from really small farms,” says Durnford. “There’s no overcrowding, there’s no bad conditions. It’s a lower volume. To me, it’s more in tune ecologically. You can go to the end of the farmer’s driveway and buy it from them and that’s legal, but they can’t sell it here. It’s exactly the same chicken. It’s ridiculous.” Since 2004 farming organizations have continually lobbied the CFO to increase the small flock exemption from 300 to 2,000, and to slacken marketing and sales restrictions. Most other provinces allow this – in Nova Scotia, for example, farmers can raise up to 10,000 birds without quota; in Saskatchewan, 4,000. Repeatedly the CFO has declined, most recently in a decision handed down to the Practical

Farmers of Ontario in January. PFO president Sean McGivern vows to appeal to a government tribunal, so stay tuned. (Visit www.flockingoptions.ca for more information.) Foodies hastily slam supply management for its failure to respond to slow-food trends. Globe and Mail writer Mark Schatzker, who buys chicken from Gerald Donnelly, calls supply management “the enemy of deliciousness.” But according to National Farmers Union – Ontario president John Sutherland, the system just needs to be reformed to fit its original purpose – to “give the best chance to the most farmers.” Changing the rules to allow farmers to raise more chickens outside the quota system and market them through local stores and farmers’ markets would be good not only for small-farm incomes, but also for consumers’ access to local food. It’s unsustainable for everyone to have to drive to a farm to buy a chicken, or to raise their own – where it’s actually permitted, that is. But if the CFO’s current tight rules have a bright side, it’s that they encourage consumers like me to seek out farmers firsthand – and their stories hold more power to change the way we eat than any grocery store label. I now think of freerange Ontario chicken as a seasonal product, hatched in spring and ready for market in summer and fall. “I like to encourage people not to think of chicken as something they need to eat as often as they do,” says Ouchterlony, pointing out that chickens are less efficient feed converters than her farm’s pigs and cows. “Unfortunately in our industrial system, it has ended up being really cheap. Wellraised chicken should be more expensive. Our ideal customer might get five or ten and keep them in the freezer.” From now on, that’s the kind of customer I want to be. We leave Donnelly’s farm with mud on our boots and the kids tickling our necks with fistfuls of peacock feathers. Three days later we roast the capon and watch it disappear. My finicky four-year-old surprises us by demanding “chicken on the bone” and picking the wings clean. The bird is as richly textured and flavourful as Donnelly promised, but we knew we’d be going back for more even before we left the farm. 왗

COOK UP SOME FUN! AFTER WORKING UP A HEALTHY APPETITE—REFUEL WITH BERETTA T BBQ season is upon us and our Organic, Grass Fed and naturally raised meat selections are prime for the grill. Keep an eye out for our Long Weekend BBQ Offers throughout the summer. Because we believe you’re worth it.

O P E N F O R L U N C H A N D D I N N E R M O N DAY T O S AT U R DAY D I N E I N TA K E O U T I W E N DY ’ S D E S S E R T S I P I C K- U P C AT E R I N G

163 First St, Orangeville 519.942.3388 www.eatatforage.com spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

photos pete paterson

Down to earth Plowshare Farmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Yehuda Nestel works his land with the help of Millie and Sally.

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

the Kohlrabi Challenge When Jeff Rollings became a Community Supported Agriculture member, he got more than he bargained for … more vegetables, that is Last summer my wife and I became members of a community supported agriculture program, or CSA, for the first time. Every week from mid-June on, anywhere from a dozen to 15 different kinds of vegetables would land on our kitchen table. Suddenly the daily “What’s for dinner?” debate at our house was all about vegetables. Would it be kale or turnips? Cauliflower or beans? Many of the veggies, such as bok choi and kohlrabi, were new to us and we had to learn how to prepare and serve them. We also rediscovered some old favourites, such as beets and turnips, that had somehow fallen off our menu over the years. It was a challenge, but on the bright side it forced us to eat many more vegetables than usual to ensure we finished everything before the next shipment arrived. continued on nex t page

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

the kohlr abi challenge

As a CSA member you buy a share of all the products generated by a participating farm in a season. Most often this means fresh vegetables, but depending on the farm it can also include eggs, meat, poultry or fruit. Members have the benefit of knowing where their food comes from, how it’s grown, and that their food dollars are going to support a local farmer. Farmers meanwhile receive a set fee prior to the start of the growing season, which enables them to better plan what they grow, finance the cost of running the farm, and share the risks of weather or other factors beyond their control. CSAs are often referred to as “relationship farming” because there’s a direct connection between the producer and the consumer,

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

in contrast to the industrial model of “commodity farming” in which consumers have no idea where their food originated. The CSA concept began in Europe and spread to North America in the 1980s. While growth in the number of CSAs here was slow at first, in the last decade the idea has taken off. Currently a dozen or more are operating in the Headwaters region and more are planned. While virtually all CSAs follow organic farming standards, each operates in its own way. We chose Plowshare Farm near Elora, in part for the convenience of being able to pick up our weekly allotment every Saturday at the Orangeville Farmers’ Market a couple of blocks from our home. We also liked the fact that Plowshare uses

horses rather than tractors to carry out farm work. Though the horses seem quaint and eco-friendly, Yehuda Nestel, owner of Plowshare, says that Sally, an eight-year-old Suffolk Punch, and Millie, a 12-year-old Belgian, bring brains to his operation as well as brawn. “When I first started,” he says, “the horses were training me.” Apparently Sally and Millie have trained Nestel to grow more than 65 different vegetable, herb and flower crops in a fouracre garden, serving a 75-member CSA program. He also operates a vegetable stand at the Orangeville Farmers’ Market and supplies several local restaurants. The volume and makeup of CSA food boxes vary from farm to farm. Most provide a range of sizes, from large shares suitable

for a family, small shares suitable for a couple, and mini shares suitable for singles. Different types of specialty shares are also available. Fiddle Foot Farm in Mulmur, for example, offers a “greens share” for salad lovers, a “freezer share” suitable for preserving, and “winter shares” of storable and root vegetables. The cost ranges from $200 for Fiddle Foot Farm’s greens share, to $800 for a large share. The season usually begins in midJune and lasts 20 weeks. Compared with the price of organic supermarket produce, we felt the cost was reasonable and delivered good value for the money. One drawback we noted was that while there was a wide variety of vegetables, there was never a large amount of any one thing.

As a result we still had to make regular trips to the supermarket, particularly for seasonal favourites such as tomatoes and corn. Amy Ouchterlony of Fiddle Foot Farm says they’ve heard this concern from some of their CSA participants and are trying to adjust the contents of their baskets accordingly. Fiddle Foot Farm also accepts donations and then pools the money, turning it into the equivalent number of CSA shares. Ouchterlony says, “Some people give $20, some give $300. Then we partner with community organizations to make that good food available to people with lower incomes.” At Caledon’s Peace Ranch the connection between local food and social well-being

Sharing the bounty Far left, Schirin Oeding and Yehuda Nestel harvesting beets. Centre, the gardens at Fiddle Foot Farm. Above, Fiddle Foot’s Graham Corbett bagging potatoes.

continued on nex t page spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

the kohlr abi challenge

In the garden Top right, Amy Ouchterlony divides carrots into CSA boxes. Bottom left, Rob Day in the bean patch. Lower right, Trevor Zurowski picks carrots with a friend.

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

goes even further. Peace Ranch provides supportive housing and rehabilitation for adults with mental illness, and part of its program includes a market garden enterprise that provides paid work and a learning opportunity for its clients, funded by the sale of CSA shares to the public. Perhaps not surprisingly the “bigger is better” mantra is not part of the CSA model. Neither Plowshare nor Fiddle Foot Farm seek to significantly expand their memberships. Instead, both aim to increase the number of products they provide to a limited number of participants. “People in Ontario think it’s only vegetables,” says Fiddle Foot’s Graham Corbett, “but in the West it’s grain, fruit, cheese – it can be any food product.”

Both Plowshare and Fiddle Foot have ambitions to evolve into a year-round, fulldiet CSA that could include such products as eggs, chicken, pork, beef, flour and lard. Such an arrangement would allow them to spread their labour more evenly over the year, and their cash flow along with it. Though it remains to be seen if CSAs will help save the family farm, they are fast becoming a central element of the local food movement. Our experience was positive, introduced us to a healthier diet, and allowed us to direct a portion of our food dollars to producers close to home. We’ll be doing it again this year. 왘

Jeff Rollings is an Orangeville-based writer.

Kohlrabi Slaw with Sesame Vinaigrette This recipe is adapted from Daphne Randall’s Edible Tulip salad blog. For more of her creative salad recipes go to foodinthehills.ca and click on blogs.

sl aw ingredients

vinaigret te ingredients

2 raw kohlrabies, peeled and grated 2 raw carrots, peeled and grated 2 tbsp fresh cilantro, or mint, or basil (or combination), ﬁnely chopped Sea salt

1 garlic clove, minced 1 tsp fresh ginger, grated 1 green onion, chopped, including greens 3 tbsp rice vinegar 1 tsp soy sauce 4½ tsp toasted sesame oil ½ tsp chili oil (or ½ tsp dried chili ﬂakes)

prepar ation Toss kohlrabi, carrots and herbs in a salad bowl. Add salt. Whisk together garlic, ginger, green onion, vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil and chili oil. Pour over vegetables. Mix well and serve. Serves 2–4.

continued on nex t page spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

the kohlr abi challenge

CSAs in Caledon, Dufferin and Wellington

Duff Du ffer ff erin er n Sh hel elbu lbu b rn ne

M no Mo n

Oran Or ange an gevi ge vviille lle

The Edge Wine Bar & Grille is Orangeville’s newest choice for casual fine dining. Located within The Headwaters Racquet Club, we are open to the public.

Where great food and music meet! Live Music Every

FRIDAY, SATURDAY featuring various local artists starting at 8:30pm

Open for dinner 6 days a week. Reservations recommended.

Lounge is available for private functions for up to 80 people.

205467 County Rd 109 Orangeville (inside Headwaters Racquet Club)

519-940-1111 theedgewinebarandgrill.com

3 10 11 Er Erin in in 13 Ellorra Elor

C le Ca ledo do on

Weellllin ingt in gton gt on n

Caledon

Dufferin

Wellington

1 The Albion Hills

6 Fiddle Foot Farm

10 Arthur

Community Farm 16555 Humber Station Rd www.albionhillscommunityfarm.org

796530 3rd Line EHS Mulmur 519-925-3225 www.ﬁddlefootfarm.com

Greenhouses 7470 2nd Line West Garafraxa 519-848-6816 www.arthurgreenhouses.ca

2 Peace Ranch 19179 Centreville Creek Rd 905-584-9156 www.peachranch.com

3 Whole Village 20725 Shaws Creek Rd 519-941-1099 www.wholevillage.org

Dufferin 4 Amaranth Springs 554090 MonoAmaranth Townline 519-942-4716 www.amaranthsprings.ca 424108 25 Sideroad Amaranth 519-939-6875 www.breakinggroundcsa.com

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

B ltton Bo

5 Breaking Ground CSA

7 Landman Gardens and Bakery 322345 Concession 6-7 Grand Valley 519-938-6163 www.landmangardens.ca

8 Mansfield Heritage Farm 588383 County Rd 17 Mansfield 705-434-2461 416-432-4934 www.mansfieldheritagefarm.ca

11 Everdale Organic Farm and Environmental Learning Centre 5812 6th Line Hillsburgh www.everdale.org

12 Heritage Hollow 5972 2nd Line Erin 519-278-5413 www.heritagehollow.ca/csa

9 Islandview

13 Plowshare Farm

Community Gardens 633520 Hwy 10 Mono 519-941-9098

456 Wellington Rd 7 Salem 519-731-4437 www.plowsharefarm. wordpress.com

Spiced Beet Salad Adapted from Nourishing Traditions by Mary G. Enig (Newtrends Publishing, 2003).

ingredients 6 medium beets 3 tbsp apple cider vinegar 4 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp orange juice Pinch of salt Pinch of cayenne pepper (optional) 1 tsp caraway seeds Pinch of ground cloves Pinch of cinnamon ½ tsp lemon zest ½ tsp orange zest ½ lb (250g) salad greens, arugula, spinach or a mix of all three 3 tbsp goat cheese, crumbled (or to taste) Chopped walnuts prepar ation Preheat oven to 350ºF. Bake whole beets for 1 hour or until tender. Peel and chop ﬁnely. Combine vinegar, oil, orange juice, seasonings and zest in a bowl. Add beets and toss well. Serve warm (or refrigerate until later) on a bed of salad greens garnished with crumbled goat cheese and chopped walnuts. Serves 4–6. 왗

12612 Hwy 50, Unit 26 Bolton | 9058570802 | theangrytomato.com spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

FI N E D I N I N G. C A SUA L EL EGA N CE. H I S TO R I C CH A R M .

share in the comforts of ﬁne food and ﬁne company 519·925·3627 M R S M I T C H E L L S .C O M / V I O L E T

H I L L O N H W Y 8 9 B E T W E E N H W Y 10 A N D A I R P O R T R D

T U E – F R I L U N C H 12 - 2 / T E A 2 - 4 / D I N N E R 5 - C L O S E 24

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

S AT – S U N L U N C H 11 - 2 / T E A 2 - 4 / D I N N E R 5 - C L O S E

photos pete paterson

Owen Vulpe of Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cookinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in Erin demonstrates the art of salad making.

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

Every summer for the last four years, artists and chefs have come together at the historic

The barbeques are fired up. The pressure is on in the courtyard at the Alton Mill on a sizzling hot July afternoon. Chefs Owen Vulpe of Erin’s What’s Cookin’ and Josh Blake of Soulyve Caribbean Foods in Orangeville examine the ingredients in the mystery black boxes before them – garlic, baby leeks, heirloom cherry tomatoes, red mountain spinach, raspberries, lavender and chicken. Their challenge in the annual Cuisine-Art local food faceoff is to create an original dish from these disparate parts. The assembled audience will decide whose ingenuity wins.

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

The next hour is a whirlwind of slicing, dicing, sautéing and stirring, the watching foodies salivating and sighing as the smokey aroma of charred chicken and crushed berries fi lls the air. “You have to be tough not to let the pressure get to you,” says Owen, reflecting on the contest months later. He and Josh were just two of the 15 local chefs who took part in one of many performances and displays at last summer’s fourth annual Cuisine-Art, an event that brings artists and food lovers together for a weekend-long culinary cultural carnival.

Twenty-five resident artists showed and demonstrated their work while visitors sipped and supped at tasting stations featuring local wine, beer, cider, and delicious food for as little as a toonie a taste. There were painting workshops, cooking demonstrations, live music, an evening performance of As You Like It and, of course, the celebrity cook-off sponsored by Eat Local Caledon. Alton Mill developer Jeremy Grant sees the festival as a marriage of true minds. He thinks of food as both art and the inspiration for art, so when they were brainstorming a few years ago for a summer

Alton Mill in a feast for the eyes and appetites | by monica duncan The Players: Cuisine-Art 2013 Chef Thorntin Macdonald Belfountain Inn Bistro Riviere Chef John Flemming Breadalbane Inn Chef Gilles Roche Gourmandissimo Chef Erik Kjaer Market Hill Café Chef James Buder Millcroft Inn Chef Adam Ryan One99 Chef Jason Perkins Ray’s Bistro Bakery Chef Robin Pradhan Rocky Raccoon Café Chef Shannon Fitzgerald Shaw’s Creek Café Jennifer Clark Soup Girl Chef Sarah Visheau Spirit Tree Estate Cidery Chef Phil Dewar Soulyve Caribbean Kitchen Chef Owen Vulpe What’s Cookin’ Chef Patrick Venables The Devil’s Pulpit Dolores Smith Olivar Corp.

event, it seemed obvious to link artists together with the many chefs and food producers in the area. “Cuisine-Art was a natural fit,” he says. In the end, Owen’s sweet and silky sauce redolent of lavender and garlic edged out Josh’s panseared chicken roll. “It was a crazy game,” says the winner of his experience, “but the best part is Josh and I have become good friends.” 왗

Cuisine-Art 2013 opens on the evening of Friday, July 19, and continues through the weekend featuring celebrity chef cook-offs and Toonie Tastings. $20 admission includes $10 in tasting tickets. Alton Mill Arts Centre in the village of Alton. For ticket information, 519-941-9300, www.altonmill.ca. The Humber River Shakespeare Company presents As You Like It on Friday and Saturday at 7pm. www.humberrivershakespeare.ca

Clockwise from top left: Meredith Cowan, Meredith’s Ginger Syrup; Nick Sutcliffe, Pommies; Gilles Roche and assistant, Gourmandissimo; Richard Kitowski and Jocelyn Klemm, The Wine Coaches; Jill Fisher, Lighthouse Lemonade; Dolores Smith, Olivar Corp.; Thorntin Macdonald (sunglasses), Belfountain Inn and Bistro Riviere; behind the scenes at the cook-off.

drink Churchill Cellars The Wine Coaches Spirit Tree Estate Cidery Pommies Dry Cider F&M Brewery The Good Earth Food and Wine Co. King Brewery Wellington Brewery Thornbury Cider Lighthouse Lemonade Meredith’s Ginger Syrup

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

Thank you for 15 years on Broadway,

We could not have done it without your support! Come in and get your May discount on the new Emile Henry items. 125 Broadway, in historic downtown Orangeville 519-942-5908 www.kitchentotable.com 28

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

“Ice cream is exquisite. What a pity it isn’t illegal.” voltaire

Here’s

o Scoop!

photos pete paterson

the

Impress your friends and family this summer with homemade ice cream. It’s easier than you think | by jennifer cl ark 왘

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

here ’s the scoop

“My advice to you is not to inquire why or whither, but just enjoy your ice cream while it’s on your plate.”

Last summer I discovered how fun and easy it is to make ice cream. I started simply with a strawberry sorbet, blending fresh local strawberries with sugar and water, and popping the mixture into my new ice cream maker. From there I stepped it up a notch – strawberry sorbet with wild mint, then strawberry wine sorbet. As the summer went on, I turned to creamier

inventions. I made apple streusel ice cream with toasted pecans, peach and jalapeno ice cream with Niagara peaches, and honey lavender ice cream with edible lavender from my garden. I was on a roll. Choosing an ice cream maker was relatively straightforward. They essentially all work on the same principle – simultaneously freezing and churning the

thornton wilder

Adam Ryan, executive chef at One99 in Orangeville, regularly makes ice creams for the restaurant menu. He starts with his basic recipe, which uses local honey, and then adds local ingredients and ﬂavours. Here are two of his favourites (Raspberry Beet on page 32).

Hockley Valley Coffee Ice Cream ingredients ¾ cup honey 8 egg yolks 3 ⁄ 8 cup sugar 1 tsp salt 2 cups 2% milk 2 tbsp ground Hockley Valley Coffee Roasters coffee prepar ation Whisk all ingredients together in a saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring often with a rubber spatula until the mixture is thick enough to coat the spatula.

Strain mixture through a ﬁne mesh strainer and refrigerate overnight. The next day put mixture in the freezer for an hour. Then blend using an immersion blender or in a stand-up blender. Freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s directions. Store in the freezer. Makes 1 quart.

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

mixture. This aerates the ice cream as it freezes, and prevents the formation of ice crystals. You want to end up with something scoopable, rather than just a big chunk of flavoured ice. One common complaint is that homemade ice cream doesn’t stay as soft in the freezer as the store-bought kind. Commercial ice cream manufacturers use a variety of techniques – high-powered churners, and various chemical additives and stabilizers – to keep their ice cream smooth. But don’t worry. Here are a few simple things you can do to improve the “scoopability” of your homemade frozen treat:

•Add a touch of alcohol to your sorbet or ice cream just prior to churning it. The alcohol will not freeze, so your finished batch will be a bit softer. About one ounce of 40 per cent alcohol (vodka, rum or liqueurs) to one litre of ice cream will do the trick. Don’t add more, or the mix may not freeze at all. Keep in mind that alcohol does not freeze out, so these batches will be not suitable for children or anyone avoiding alcohol.

•Fat does not freeze very well, so your ice cream will be smoother if you substitute some of the milk with cream. High-fat ingredients such as egg yolks or avocado will also increase the fat content.

Want healthy food choices?

Lamb & Wool Producer Amaranth Township 519-941-0479 bertslamb@bell.net Find us on Facebook

•The faster your mixture freezes while being

Served

churned, the less chance of ice crystals forming. So be sure to chill it in the freezer for an hour prior to churning. The ice cream maker tub should also be as cold as possible. Most manufacturers recommend keeping the tub in the freezer for 24 hours before using. I simply store mine in the freezer so it’s always ready to use.

at some of the best restaurants in Headwaters

Preferred by award-winning chefs

Come

•Last and simplest of all, let your ice cream

see us at the farmers’ markets

soften at room temperature for about 15 minutes before serving. 왘

163 First Street Orangeville continued on nex t page

Bert Nieuwenhuis

519-941-8961 www.harmonymarket.com

. . . . . .

Wednesday Inglewood 3:30 to 7:00 June to Oct Friday Sherway Gardens 8:00 to 2:00 May to Oct Saturday Orangeville 8:00 to 1:00 May to Oct Also available at the farm by appointment. No Sunday calls, please.

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

here ’s the scoop

“Age does not diminish the extreme disappointment of having a scoop of ice cream fall from the cone.” jim fiebig

Raspberry Beet Ice Cream ingredients

Photo Credit: Carolyn Doukas

two great reasons to dine with us

82 main street, erin phone 519.833.1121 www.bistroriviere.com

792 forks of the credit road, belfountain phone 519.927.9219 www.belfountaininn.com

¾ cup honey 8 egg yolks 3 ⁄ 8 cup sugar 1 tsp salt 2 cups 2% milk 3 cups raw red beets, peeled and grated (roughly 2 large beets) 3 cups raspberries prepar ation

ORANGEVILLE FARMERS’ MARKET KNOW WHERE IT GROWS

DAVE’S BUTCHER SHOP

Fire up your grill... summer is coming! Aged beef, Ontario lamb, veal, pork, BBQ rentals Alder Street Mews, 75 Alder St, Unit 4, Orangeville www.davesbutchershop.ca 519-415-MEAT (6328)

Saturdays 8am to 1pm May 11th to October 26th Orangeville Town Hall orangevillefarmersmarket.ca 32

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

Whisk all ingredients together in a saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring often and crushing the raspberries to squeeze and infuse the juice into the mixture as it cooks. Use a rubber spatula on the sides of the pan to keep the mixture from burning. Cook until mixture coats the spatula. Strain mixture through a ﬁne mesh strainer, pushing hard with a whisk to get as much through as possible. Refrigerate overnight. The next day put mixture in the freezer for an hour. Then blend using an immersion blender or in a stand-up blender. Freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s directions. Store in the freezer. Makes 1 quart. 왗

Nothing says spring like the tart taste of rhubarb

photos pete paterson

b y jennifer cl a rk

Even though it is not a native plant, rhubarb is somehow evocative of traditional rural Ontario. The rhubarb patch and stewed rhubarb I remember on my grandparentsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; farm and in their kitchen was one of the fi rst edible delights of spring, appearing at least a month before anything else in the garden.

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spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

sweet and sour

Pork Tenderloin with Rhubarb Sauce Pork pairs beautifully with this savoury/sweet sauce from Lucy Waverman’s Home For Dinner (Random House, 2002). ingredients 1 tbsp olive oil ½ tsp dried or 1 tsp fresh rosemary, chopped Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1½ lb (750g) pork tenderloin 2 cups rhubarb, chopped ½ cup red wine 1 ⁄ 3 cup granulated sugar ¼ cup Dijon mustard prepar ation Preheat oven to 400°F Combine oil, rosemary, salt and pepper. Rub over pork. Heat oven-proof skillet on medium heat. Add pork and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer skillet to oven and bake for 15 minutes or until pork is just cooked through. Remove pork from skillet and keep warm. Add rhubarb, wine, sugar and mustard to skillet. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer for 5–7 minutes or until thickened. Slice pork and serve with rhubarb sauce. Serves 4.

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

Although we tend to think of rhubarb as a fruit, it is actually a vegetable. It was brought to North America by European settlers who valued it for its medicinal properties, but was not used in cooking until the Caribbean sugar trade made it possible to sweeten the tart stems. Still, it fares just as well in savoury dishes as in pies and crumbles. A traditional Polish dish, for instance, pairs rhubarb with potatoes and mushrooms in a delicious gratin. The vegetable also works nicely with fish and meats, and can be added to soups and stews to impart a tart flavour. Rhubarb season stretches from mid-May to early July. During that time you can find rhubarb at a number of farms and farmers’ markets in the Headwaters region. But it’s also available in winter at Lennox Farm near Shelburne, where owners Bill and Diane French harvest more than 250,000 pounds of rhubarb per year, with over 30 acres in production. From February to mid-May they also produce about 60,000 pounds of indoor rhubarb. Lennox Farm is one of only

two indoor rhubarb producers in Ontario, and between the two of them they provide nearly all the province’s demand for indoor rhubarb. Now into their fifth generation on the farm, the French family has been growing rhubarb since 1883. Bill grows a German Wine variety in his fields, which yields stalks that are redder, more tender and sweeter than the traditional English varieties of Sutton and Victoria that most likely grow in your backyard patch. Lennox’s indoor rhubarb is even sweeter still, although Bill is quick to point out, “When it comes to rhubarb, you don’t really say sweeter, you say less tart.” Starting your own rhubarb patch is a worthwhile investment. It is a perennial, and a single plant could yield as much as 10 pounds annually for up to 10 years. Rhubarb root stocks are available at garden centres in the spring. Be prepared to wait two years before harvesting as the root systems need time to become properly established. And remember, never eat the leaves – they are toxic.

recipes on nex t page

Rhubarb producers Lennox Farm 518024 County Rd 124, Melancthon Melanctho The ffarm stand Th t d opens iin JJune. PPrior i to June you can buy fresh or frozen rhubarb year-round if you call ahead. 519-925-6444. Reidâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Farm Market 833153 4th Line, Mono Self-serve 24/7 519-940-4096 www.reidspotatoes.com

Freezing rhubarb At the end of every rhubarb season, I make sure to pick up several bundles to put away for the offseason. Simply wash and chop the stalks, place on a cookie sheet, and freeze for at least two hours so the pieces freeze individually rather than in a big clump. Then place in airtight containers and back in the freezer. Easy as (rhubarb) pie!

The Globe Restaurant Fine dining in 19th century surroundings

***** Lunches â&#x20AC;˘ Teas Dinners

***** Reservations (705) 435-6981 Closed Tuesdays In Rosemont, Hwy. 89, east of Airport Rd.

Wicked Shortbread is open in Orangeville Featuring the finest local desserts and ingredients of the Headwaters region Handmade ~ Artisan ~ Local

96 Broadway, Orangeville 519-307-5000 wickedshortbread.com Facebook/Twitter spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

swee t and sour

Rhubarb wine Rhubarb has long been used to produce a tart, crisp wine. Try a local version: Downey’s Estate Winery Unﬁltered Rhubarb Wine. Or for something sweeter, try their StrawberryRhubarb Wine. www.downeysfarm.com

Rhubarb and Goat-Cheese Cake

Rhubarb Compote

crust ingredients

filling ingredients

ingredients

1½ cups ginger cookie crumbs 2 tbsp sugar ¼ cup melted butter

3½ cups cream cheese 1½ cups goat cheese 1 cup sour cream

prepar ation

Preheat oven to 350°F. In a mixing bowl combine cookie crumbs, sugar and melted butter.

In a mixer, using the paddle attachment, combine cream cheese, goat cheese, sour cream, maple syrup and vanilla on slow speed. One at a time, add the eggs to the mixer, making sure to scrape down the sides with a rubber spatula after each addition.

Combine ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a light boil over medium heat, stirring frequently. Lower heat and simmer until rhubarb is tender, approximately 10 minutes. Sweeten to taste with more maple syrup or sugar if desired. 왗

Grease a 9-inch springform pan and pour cookie mixture into the bottom and part way up the sides of the pan, pressing down tightly. Bake for 10 minutes. Let cool.

¾ cup maple syrup 1½ tsp vanilla 4 whole eggs

Pour mixture into prepared crust. Place pan on a cookie sheet (to catch any liquid that may seep from the bottom) and bake for 1 hour at 350°F. Cool at room temperature for 35 minutes, then chill completely in the refrigerator for several hours. To serve, dip a knife in hot water to cut clean slices. Serve topped with rhubarb compote.

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

4 cups rhubarb, chopped ½ cup maple syrup 1 ⁄ 8 cup water 1 tsp cornstarch

the main room

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spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

cooking with Caesar

by caesar guinto (with sam holwell)

Almost everyone eats doughnuts. But few of us actually think of making them at home. Mostly we go into a doughnut shop, scan all the flavours offered, then choose our usual standby. If only you knew how simple and easy it is to make this timeless treat yourselves. Doughnuts were brought to North America by Dutch settlers, and named for the walnuts or hazelnuts baked into the mostly uncooked centre. In 1847, an American ship’s captain solved the problem of the gooey middle by punching a hole in the ball of dough, thereby creating the first “ring” doughnut. Today, most countries in the world have their own delicious version of deep-fried dough. The two types we are preparing here are yeast doughnuts and cake doughnuts. A yeast doughnut is a sweet bread dough enriched with fats such as milk, eggs and shortening,

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

whereas a cake doughnut is simply a dense cake batter leavened with baking powder instead of yeast. I started making doughnuts when I had a summer job at an Italian bakery in Mississauga. They sold simple glazed yeast doughnuts fresh every day, and making, frying and glazing the doughnuts was part of my routine. Later, when I trained as a pastry chef in college, I learned about beignets, a deep-fried French choux pastry dough. This is the same dough used in traditional éclairs, cream puffs and profiteroles. After graduating from culinary school, I worked as a pastry chef at various fine dining establishments where I experimented with these doughs for my dessert menus. One of my favourite creations was sugared beignets accompanied by a chocolate coffee ganache in an espresso cup. I called it Coffee and Doughnuts.

photos mk lynde

dOughnuts

Caesar Guinto The chef/owner at Creemore Kitchen is an expert doughnut maker.

Toasted Almond and Chocolate Doughnuts ingredients 24 yeast doughnuts with holes (recipe on page 40) Chocolate glaze (recipe below) Chopped toasted almonds

Miller’s Dairy Day Saturday, July 13 11am–4pm

prepar ation Spread chocolate glaze on cooled doughnuts and sprinkle with almonds.

Chocolate Glaze ingredients 1 cup milk 2 cups icing sugar 1 cup cocoa powder 4 tbsp unsalted butter, cut into cubes (at room temperature) prepar ation Combine icing sugar and cocoa powder in a large bowl. Bring milk to a boil and pour over the sugar and cocoa powder, whisking until combined. Last summer The New Farm in Creemore asked me to take part in their annual Grow for The Stop fundraiser, a partnership between The New Farm and The Stop Community Food Centre in Toronto. Participating chefs were asked to use local, seasonal produce to create a signature dish. Knowing that most chefs shy away from preparing a dessert for these events, I decided to take the opportunity as a challenge and make an easy cake doughnut using fresh beets from Fiddle Foot Farm, a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) farm near Mansfield. The beet doughnut recipe below is the result, except that instead of a traditional “ring” doughnut, which requires purchasing a professional doughnut dropper, I used an ice cream scoop to make a “Timbit”-style doughnut hole. I have also provided step-by-step instructions for basic yeast doughnuts, plus suggestions for chocolate or lemon glazes and a lemon cream fi lling.

While mixture is still warm, whisk in the soft butter a little at a time until smooth. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and set aside until ready to use. Makes about 2 cups.

At Creemore Kitchen we plan to offer fresh doughnuts at least once a week (usually Saturdays), using local, seasonal ingredients. As much as I would like you to come and taste one of ours after reading this, I really hope you are inspired by the simplicity of making your own. 왘 Caesar Guinto and Sam Holwell are chef/ owner and manager/owner respectively of Creemore Kitchen, opening in Creemore this spring.

Meet the ‘girls’. Take a tour. And enjoy refreshments at Jalon Farms, 7280 Cty Rd #9 just east of Creemore. www.millersdairy.com

recipes on nex t page spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

cooking with c aesar

Basic Yeast Doughnuts

ingredients 1½ cups warm milk 1 ⁄ 3 cup vegetable shortening 3½ tsp instant yeast 1 ⁄ 3 cup warm water 2 eggs, beaten ¼ cup sugar 1½ tsp salt 5¼ cups all-purpose ﬂour Vegetable oil for frying Yield 2 dozen doughnuts prepar ation

왘

Variation: Boston Lemon Cream doughnuts follow on the next page.

Transfer dough to a well-oiled bowl, cover and let rise for 1 hour or until doubled in size.

Place shortening in a bowl of warm milk to melt. Set aside until lukewarm. In another bowl sprinkle yeast over warm water to dissolve.

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

On a ﬂoured surface, roll out dough to 3 ⁄ 8 -inch thick. Cut out dough using a 2½-inch round cookie cutter and a 7⁄ 8 inch round cookie cutter for the hole (if making “ring” doughnuts).

Pour milk mixture and yeast mixture into the bowl of a stand mixer. Add eggs, sugar, salt and half the flour. Using the paddle attachment, combine on low speed until flour is incorporated. Turn speed to medium and beat well. Add remaining flour at low speed, turn to medium and beat well again.

Set doughnuts on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover lightly with a towel and let rise for 30 minutes.

GABE’S

COUNTRY BAKE SHOPPE

Change to dough hook and beat on medium speed until dough pulls away from the bowl and becomes smooth.

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Preheat oil in a Dutch over to 365°F. Gently place doughnuts in oil, 3 to 4 at a time. Cook 1 minute per side. Transfer to a rack. Let cool. Glaze and serve. 왘

Join us for a number of in-store ‘Books & Brunch’ author events. Check out our website for details.

CURIOSITY HOUSE BOOKS 178 Mill Street, Creemore 705-466-3400 www.curiosityhousebooks.com more recipes on nex t page spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

cooking with c aesar

Beet Doughnut Holes ingredients

Boston Lemon Cream Doughnuts ingredients

prepar ation

24 2½-inch yeast doughnuts (no holes) Lemon cream (storebought or recipe below) Lemon glaze (recipe below) Lemon zest

Cut cooled doughnuts in half horizontally. Place lemon curd into a piping bag ﬁtted with a star tip. Pipe lemon curd onto the bottom half of the doughnut and set aside. Place the top half of the doughnut on top of the lemon curd and press lightly to ensure the top half is levelled onto the curd.

3 tbsp unsalted butter ¾ cup sugar 3 eggs 1 cup grated beets with juice 1 tsp vanilla 4½ cups all-purpose ﬂour 3½ tsp baking powder 1 tsp salt ½ tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp ground nutmeg 2 tbsp sour cream 2 tbsp milk Vegetable oil for frying Sugar for dusting Beet and cream cheese glaze (recipe below) prepar ation

Place lemon glaze into a piping bag ﬁtted with a plain tip. Pipe lemon glaze onto the centre of the top of the doughnut allowing the glaze to spread evenly onto the doughnut and down the sides. Sprinkle with grated lemon zest.

Lemon Cream ingredients

prepar ation

1 cup lemon juice 1 2 ⁄ 3 cups unsalted butter 8 egg yolks ¾ cup sugar 4 eggs 1¾ cup sugar 3¾ tbsp cornstarch

Combine lemon juice and butter in a pot and boil, and set aside. In a bowl, whisk egg yolks and ¾ cup sugar until light and ﬂuffy. Add 4 whole eggs and whisk until combined. Set aside. Combine 1¾ cup sugar and cornstarch in a bowl and add to egg mixture. Whisk until light and ﬂuffy. Pour lemon and butter mixture over the egg mixture and whisk until combined.

In a stand mixer with paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar until light and ﬂuffy. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in beets, beet juice and vanilla. Combine ﬂour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg in a bowl. In another bowl, combine sour cream and milk. Gradually add the dry ingredients to the creamed butter and sugar alternately with the milk mixture. In a Dutch oven preheat oil to 365°F. Drop batter by teaspoon or ice cream scoop, a few at a time, into the hot oil. Fry until golden brown on all sides. Drain on paper towels. Roll in sugar or glaze.

Beet & Cream Cheese Glaze

Pour into a clean stainless steel pot and whisk constantly on medium-low heat until mixture thickens and resembles a thick custard. Make sure to keep the mixture moving so it does not stick to the bottom of the pan. Strain mixture through a ﬁne sieve into a bowl and allow to cool. Store in an airtight container and refrigerate until ready to use. Makes 2 cups.

ingredients

prepar ation

3 cups icing sugar 3¾ – 4½ tbsp lemon juice, freshly squeezed Lemon zest

Combine icing sugar and lemon juice in a bowl and stir until smooth. Glaze should be about the consistency of ketchup. If glaze is too thin, add more icing sugar. If too thick, add more lemon juice until you have desired consistency.

In a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, beat cream cheese and icing sugar until smooth. Add egg white and beat until smooth. While mixer is still running on low speed, gradually pour in beet juice until smooth. Store in an airtight container until ready to use. 왗

Lemon Glaze

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

½ cup cream cheese 4 cups plus 1 tbsp icing sugar 1 egg white Juice from 4 medium-sized beets (¼ cup plus 1 tbsp)

a s p e c i a l t h a n k you t o ou r l oyya l c u s t o m e r s f o r t e n a m a z i n g y e a rss

Mercato Fine Foods turns 10 this year and we’d love for you to celebrate with us!

Please join us on Saturday, June 29th from 9am to 3pm for free espresso, cannoli and cake. B in Br ingi g ng gi n g f in ine e Itt al a ia a n fo f od d s an and d prrod oduc ucts uc ts f ro rom m ou o r fa fami mily lyy to yo yourr s. f rre e sh shly lyy b ak aked ed e d b read re e ad g el ea atto h ot o t ab able l le p re repa ep pa a re e d fo food oo od ds e sp spre ress re sso ss o ba barr d el elii me m at ats s pe peci c all tyy f oo ci o ods dss d el e ic i at a e pa past stt r es stri e gou ourm ou rm m et c he hees ess e c at ater err in i g av a ai a la a bl ble e g ourm o u rm ou m et c ak akes es p as asta ta as

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Sheldon Creek Dairy ‘Our Cream Rises to the Top’ Sheldon Creek Dairy crafts pasteurized, non-homogenized whole milk products.

Day on the Farm!

10am–4pm JUNE 15th 2013

YOU’RE INVITED! Come to Sheldon Creek Dairy and meet the cows, tour the farm, check out the farmers’ market, cooking demonstrations, pancake breakfast, live music and much more! Visit our website to find a location nearest you to purchase Sheldon Creek Dairy products.

www.sheldoncreekdairy.ca spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

photos pete paterson 44

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

‘I have measured out my life with coffee spoons.’ TS Eliot, from The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock

A Caledon kitchen celebrates café culture and contemporary design by nicol a ross

Measuring out her life in coffee spoons comes naturally to Eddie Corner. As co-owner (with her husband Dave) of Erin’s The Shed Coffee Bar, she doesn’t like to bring her work home with her, but it’s hard not to. Everything in the kitchen of the couple’s Caledon home, from the framed T.S. Eliot quote on the wall to the open shelving fi lled with coffee cups, is a celebration of café culture. Two years ago Eddie and David decided to renovate the kitchen of their nine-year-old house, and coffee and its accoutrements just naturally became a major theme in the inviting new space. On a counter that opens to the living room sit an enormous coffee grinder and a portable espresso maker called The Rocket. Beside the kitchen window there is a French press, a percolator, a drip coffee machine and a smaller grinder. Mugs and coffee pots line the shelves. It’s a place to cook and entertain and – clearly – to drink coffee with friends and family. “We wanted the space to be rustic and natural combined with a contemporary edge,” says Eddie. But it also had to be functional. “I really wanted my kitchen to work like a restaurant.”

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Eddie Corner “I really wanted my kitchen to work like a restaurant.” spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

Compact yet comfortable, Eddie Cornerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kitchen is a place where form meets function every day.

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

corner kitchen

The reclaimed flooring of four-inchwide chestnut-brown fir provides a rustic touch, as do the honed granite counters and the old barn beams opening onto the main living area. Shaker-style cabinets in maple and stainless steel, plus streamlined open shelving lend a contemporary edge. The Corners’ kitchen has all the trappings of an upscale home kitchen – Thermador appliances, including a four-burner gas range with centre grill, refrigerator and dishwasher, as well as microwave, convection and warming ovens. “I wish I had a dozen warming ovens,” says Eddie. But the pièce de résistance, the feature that gives the kitchen the feel of a real working kitchen, is the oversized industrialstyle sink, which makes cleanup a breeze. “When we’re entertaining,” says Eddie, “we have big trays and other things the sinks can handle easily.” A second prep sink overlooks the living area within easy reach of the main work area – a granite and butcher-block island in the middle of the room. “The island is my favourite feature,” says Eddie. This is where she and David do most of their food preparation. Although her heritage is Portuguese, Eddie’s preferred palate is Italian. “I make all of my own soups and sauces,” she says, “and we use the same recipes at The Shed.” An accomplished cook Eddie is also no stranger to design. Before moving to Caledon, where her two daughters Lauren, 8 and Victoria, 5 were born, she studied visual merchandizing and worked as a display designer at Simpsons and a retail designer at Banana Republic, eventually getting a job at the Art Gallery of Ontario retail store. The kitchen concept and layout are her own vision. Karry Kitchens of Brampton gave her the technical help to realize her dream, as well as sourcing such materials as the reclaimed flooring and barn beams. “We shape our dwellings, and afterwards our dwellings shape us,” reads another framed quotation on the kitchen wall, this one from Winston Churchill. And it’s easy to see how the words sum up the Corners’ kitchen. “David and I see food as much as an art form as something you consume,” says Eddie, and indeed this is a place where form meets function every day. 왘

Millcroft Inn & Spa has you covered for every occasion! Executive Chef James Buder and his team offer an array of skillfully prepared delights, all day, every day: Fresh, organic and local at Headwaters Restaurant Soak up the best of summer on our Millpond Patio Light and tasty fare at the Spa Café Old favourites with a new twist, ‘pub grub’ in the Lounge Traditional elegant Sunday brunches

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recipes on nex t page

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spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

corner kitchen

Banana Chocolate Chip Loaf This moist quick bread is a favourite at The Shed Coffee Bar in Erin. ingredients 2 cups plain all-purpose ﬂour 2 tsp baking powder ½ cup unsalted butter, softened 1 cup sugar 4 ripe bananas, mashed 2 eggs, lightly beaten 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 cup dark or milk chocolate chips prepar ation Preheat oven to 350°F. Sift ﬂour and baking powder into a large bowl. Mix the butter, sugar, bananas, eggs, vanilla extract and chocolate chips in a separate bowl. Add to the dry ingredients and stir to combine.

Bringing you the best that Ontario has to offer, with fruits and vegetables arriving daily. We have our own line of preserves and fresh baking made on our farm. OPEN: 8am to 6pm, daily from July until Labour Day.

518024 County Rd 124, north of Shelburne 519-925-6444 lennoxfarms@hotmail.com

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

Pour the batter into a non-stick or lightly greased and ﬂoured (7½ x 4½ inch) loaf tin and bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until the loaf is cooked when tested with a skewer. Let rest in tin for 5 minutes before turning out onto a wire rack to cool. Makes 8 to 10 slices.

Shed b52 Specialty Coffee Into a stemmed, clear glass mug, preferably with a handle, slowly pour in this order equal parts (1 ⁄ 3 oz) Kahlúa liqueur, Baileys Irish Cream and Grand Marnier to create a layered effect. Slowly top with a layer of freshly brewed strong coffee. Top that with fresh whipped cream and sprinkle with grated chocolate. 왗

fresh images photogr aphy

le uscan-sty T a t a t is c ily ro s s w e t c a y s b e | k a eremony Tradition t summer c

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

under the c aledon sun

the Menu

Renae Cristello and Darren Glennon make their vows surrounded by friends and family… in the middle of a stadium jumping ring.

appetizers mushroom frittatas, beef tenderloin on crostini, bocconcini-wrapped zucchini, cocktail sausages, bruschetta, spinach phyllo triangles, Swedish meatballs

antipasto plate prosciutto, melon, marinated vegetables, tomato bocconcini, salami, olives

pasta penne alla vodka (recipe at right)

meat grilled chicken Marsala with roast potatoes and steamed veggies (recipe next page)

seafood tomato seafood bouillabaisse

salad garden salad

dessert fruit platter

On a sultry afternoon last August, Renae Cristello and Darren Glennon were married in the stadium jumping ring at the Caledon Riding and Hunt Club. The bride wore white, the groom sported a black Stetson, and horses grazed happily in a nearby pasture as the couple said their vows. As wedding venues go, it was, to say the least, unconventional. And yet, for the most part tradition ruled at the Caledon couple’s nuptials. “My family is very Italian,” says Renae, “so they preferred to view the horses from afar.” Indeed, this was the first outdoor wedding many of her relatives had ever attended. But Renae, who works at Woodbine Racetrack, and Darren, who is a thoroughbred trainer, have horses in their blood, so the riding club

was a perfect choice for them. “It suited both our personalities in a very classy manner,” says Renae. “Upscale, but casual country.” And although the day was as hot as anything Tuscany could deliver, guests stayed cool in the shade of a marquis surrounded by sweeping views of the Caledon countryside. “There was a lovely breeze,” says Renae, “and everything glowed in the beautiful light.” Despite the unusual setting, there was never any doubt in Renae’s mind about what to serve the 120 family and friends. True to her Italian roots, she had her heart set on a traditional five-course sit-down dinner. Appetizer, pasta, meat/seafood, salad, dessert. And she knew where to get it – or so she thought.

continued on nex t page 50

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

Penne Alla Vodka

Food In The Hills is ppleased to introduce

ingredients 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 Spanish onion, ﬁnely chopped 4 oz (100g) pancetta, diced 4 garlic cloves, peeled and ﬁnely chopped 1½ oz (45ml) vodka 1 cup canned tomatoes, crushed 2 cups 35% cream ¼ cup parsley, chopped Salt and pepper 1 lb (450g) penne rigate

a new online advertising feature for diners who want to explore and savour the very best that Headwaters restaurants have to offer.

prepar ation In a heavy saucepan large enough to hold the sauce and pasta, add vegetable oil. Sauté onion and diced pancetta for 3–5 minutes, or until onions are translucent and pancetta is cooked. Add garlic and cook for one more minute, making sure it doesn’t burn. At this point add the vodka. This will produce a small ﬂame, which will disappear once the alcohol is cooked out. Add crushed tomatoes and cook for 10 minutes. Add cream, stirring constantly, and simmer for 5 minutes or until cream has thickened. Add chopped parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Keep sauce on a low simmer while cooking the penne in a separate pot. Cook penne until al dente. Add cooked penne to sauce, stir well and serve. Serves 6 to 8.

Just click on the Dining Out link at foodinthehills.ca to view a region-wide map of select area restaurants, each linked to its own listing page. While you’re on the site, check out new recipes from our bloggers, up-to-the-minute listings of local food events, proﬁles of local producers, and stories and recipes from past issues.

Don’t forget to nominate your candidate for Best Bites in the hills. Or just send us a note – we love to hear from you!

foodinthehills.ca

The next issue of Food In The Hills magazine is coming in August. Watch for it at restaurants, specialty food stores and markets throughout the hills. For print and online advertising information, contact Erin Woodley at 519-307-0769, erin@inthehills.ca spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

under the c aledon sun

Clockwise from top left: dinner’s aftermath; antipasto; chicken Marsala; Renae and Darren’s engagement photo; two young guests play as dusk settles over the Caledon Hills.

Every Valentine’s Day Renae and Darren treated themselves to dinner at Chef Talk Bistro in Bolton where chef Fabrizio Natale had been wowing guests since 2005. “We were long-time lovers of his food,” says Renae. So she was more than a little dismayed when she learned the restaurant had closed early last year. But after a few calls, she discovered her favourite chef was still in the catering business. Renae trusted Fabrizio so completely that she let him set the menu for the wedding. “‘I don’t care what you serve,’ I said. ‘This is my budget. Go for it.’” Renae’s grandparents and their four

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

eldest children came to Canada in the 1940s. Her father, the fifth child, was born here. And the menu Chef came up with was typical of Italian feasts the family had enjoyed for generations. “I received endless compliments on the food,” says Renae of the menu which began with an antipasto plate of prosciutto, melon, marinated vegetables, tomato bocconcini, salami and olives. The pasta was penne alla vodka, followed by chicken Marsala and seafood bouillabaisse, and finishing with a garden salad. Dessert was fresh fruit and, of course, the cake – lemon with a buttercream icing.

“There was perfectly too much food,” says the bride. After dinner the couple, who as tradition would have it, were prevented from eating much of anything thanks to the persistent tinkling of spoons on glasses, performed their first dance as man and wife to “Wanted” by country star Hunter Hayes. And as the sun went down over the Escarpment, it was replaced by a gibbous moon and the light of countless candles. “Everyone,” says the happy bride, “was overwhelmed by how perfect it was.” 왗

Chef G illes Roche C aledon Culinary Challenge W inner 2011

Chicken Marsala ingredients 4 boneless skinless chicken breasts 5 tsp all-purpose ﬂour 2 tbsp vegetable oil 4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 1 cup Marsala wine 10 oz (280g) mushrooms, sliced (white or portobello) 2 cups chicken stock Salt and pepper prepar ation Preheat oven to 350°F. Place chicken breasts between sheets of plastic wrap and, with kitchen mallet, carefully pound chicken breast until thin (about ¼ inch thick)

Dredge chicken in ﬂour until coated on both sides. Heat vegetable oil in skillet, sauté garlic for 30 seconds. Add chicken breasts and cook about 3 minutes on each side, then remove from skillet and place into ovenproof casserole dish.

Weddings & Special Events Sweets & Fine Chocolate Artisanal Cheese Take Out Dinners & Lunch The Bartlett Room Wine Dinner Club Locally Made Delicacies Gourmet Imports Catering all of life’s special occasions.

Deglaze skillet with Marsala wine, making sure to scrape the bottom, loosening all brown bits. Add mushrooms and sauté quickly. Add chicken stock and simmer until sauce begins to thicken. Pour mushrooms and sauce over chicken breasts in casserole dish. Bake uncovered for 20 minutes. Sauce will thicken and reduce a little more. Serve with pasta or potatoes. Serves 4.

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www.gourmandissimo.com Best Customer Service Hills of Headwaters 2011 spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

the onion index

Onion

n. a swollen edible bulb used as a vegetable, having a pungent taste and smell and composed of several concentric layers; the plant that produces the onion Oxford English Dictionary The onion (Allium cepa) is the most widely cultivated species of the genus Allium. It is most frequently a biennial or a perennial, but is usually treated as an annual and harvested in its ﬁrst growing season. 왘

plentiful

medieval

Worldwide, about 9 million acres of onions are cultivated annually in more than 170,000 countries; 92 per cent are for domestic use only.

In the Middle Ages people paid their rent with onions. And doctors prescribed onions to facilitate bowel movements and erections, and to relieve headaches, coughs, snakebites and hair loss.

colourful Onions come in three colours: yellow, red and white. Green onions (scallions) are young plants harvested before bulbing occurs in the fall. Yellow onions turn a rich dark brown when caramelized. Red onions brighten up salads and grilled food. White onions are used in traditional Mexican cooking for their sweet ﬂavour when cooked.

symbolic Ancient Egyptians believed the onion’s spherical shape and concentric rings symbolized eternal life.

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

toxic Onions are toxic to dogs, cats, guinea pigs and many other animals.

useful modern The ﬁrst settlers brought onions to the New World only to discover native people were already using wild onions, eating them raw and cooked.

seasonal Onions harvested after bulbing has begun, but before the plant is mature, are called summer onions. The usual time to harvest is in the fall, when the leaves die back and the skin of the onion turns brown and brittle.

ancient The slaves who built the pyramids in Egypt were fed radishes and onions. Ancient Greek athletes ate onions because they were believed to balance the blood. Roman gladiators rubbed their bodies with onions to ﬁrm up their muscles.

They also contain calcium, iron, are low in sodium and contain no fat.

healthful Onions contain quercetin, an antioxidant that helps prevent atherosclerosis and coronary heart disease, and regenerates vitamin E. High in vitamin C, onions are a good source of dietary ﬁbre and folic acid.

The juice of onions can be used as a moth repellent and rubbed on the skin to prevent insect bites. It is also said to promote hair growth and reduce freckling. It has been used to polish glass and copperware, and prevent rust. A spray made of boiled water and chopped onions can be used as a plant pesticide. Onion skins produce a yellow-brown dye.

irritating Chopping an onion releases synPropanethial-S-oxide, a volatile gas that causes a stinging sensation in the eyes. Tears ﬂush out the irritant. To avoid the problem try cutting onions under cold water. Or do not cut into the root end as it has a higher concentration of the compound. 왗

Celebrating our 25th Anniversary Heartfelt Thank You to Our Loyal Customers for Supporting Local and Ontario Farmers

Eat Local and Taste the Difference! Ontario Grown Produce as in Season Offering you a large variety of annuals, perennials, hanging baskets, herbs, vegetable plants, fresh cut flowers, fresh fruits and vegetables, free range farm eggs, preserves, maple syrup, home baked pies and bread daily U-Pick and Pick Your Own Strawberries (Approx. June 20th)

Open Everyday! April to November, Including Holidays, 8am to 7pm

905-584-9461 16930 Airport Road, 2.5 km North of Caledon East

www.rockgardenfarms.ca

Farmer Fresh Produce: from our table to yours

CULTIVATE YOUR LIFE Weekend Market corner of Airport Road and Mansfield (site of Downey poutine and burger stand)

Summer Events (so far) â&#x20AC;˘ Art Show - Kai-Liis McInnes June 22 and 23 (reception June 22, 6pm to 8pm) â&#x20AC;˘ Kids Cooking Camp day camp August 19 to 23 ($350)

Share in the weekend fun at our many events and festivals!

FARMERSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; MARKET MAYORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BREAKFAST MUSIC ON MAIN ART ON MAIN BATTLE OF THE BRUSHES SUMMER SOLSTICE POTATO FESTIVAL BANTING DAYS HOMETOWN CHRISTMAS

May through October May 8 May 10-12 May 25-June 12 June 8 June 18 August 9-11 November 12-17 November 30

in the Villages of

CSAs (share program) sign-up

Contact www.mansfieldheritagefarm.ca or 416-432-4934

Every Saturday (May through Oct) Mill St. & Victoria St t 8:00 am - 2:00 pm spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

what’s cooking in thec ahills lendar of food happenings fundraisers may 18, june 15

june 15

august 25

Pancake Breakfasts The Caledon Navy league is serving up mouth watering breakfasts of pancakes, sausages, tea, coffee and juice at the Bolton United Church at King and Nancy Streets. All proceeds support the Bolton Sea Cadet program. $5; seniors and children $3. 9–11am. 905-533-1960, caledonnavyleague@hotmail.com

Country Traditions Barbeque and Dance Wear your jeans and boots and bring your hat and lawn chair for a Western barbeque, followed by an evening of dancing to country music by Kent Tocher. Proceeds go to the Lymphedema Compassion Fund. 5–11pm. $20. Orangeville Seniors’ Centre, 26 Bythia St. Valley Chapter OES. 519-9388457, bjwm@rogers.com

McVean Harvest Table Dine family-style on handcrafted harvest tables surrounded by a picturesque patchwork of small farms. Freshly harvested McVean Farm organic vegetables are cooked onsite over a charcoal ﬁre. Local biodynamic wines and organic brews complement the meal, along with local meats and cheeses. 3–9pm. $100. McVean Farm, west side of McVean Drive at Dunegrass Way, Brampton. Proceeds to FarmStart. 519-836-7046 x103, www.harvesttable.ca .ca

may 19 CRAvening Join us for a seasonal, multi-course meal rooted in the ﬁne tradition of community dinners and created by several well known local chefs including Caesar Guinto and Leona Nyman. Proceeds to the Avening Community Centre. 6:30pm. $85. Avening community Centre, Airport Rd, Avening (just south of Creemore). 705-466-9906, www.aveninghall.com

july 13

may 25

july 27

Palgrave United Church Plant and Bake Sale Come early for an amazing selection of baked goods and perennials, and don’t forget the back bacon on a bun barbeque. 8am–noon. 34 Pine Ave, Palgrave. 905-8800303, palgraveunitedchurch@rogers.com

Honeywood Beef Barbeque This annual barbeque features a delicious outdoor ﬁre-roasted beef dinner with all the trimmings and tasty homemade treats that have been bringing the community together for 48 years. Proceeds support the North Dufferin Community Recreation Centre where the event takes place at 706114 County Rd 21, Honeywood. 5–8pm. 705466-3341 x223, www.mulmurtownship.ca

may 25 Perfect Pairing presented by Topac Express Caledon Community Services hosts an exquisite gourmet meal perfectly paired with excellent wines. Proceeds to the Transportation Program, providing more than 35,000 rides annually to seniors and those with disabilities. 6–11pm. $125. Glen Eagle Golf Club, 15731 Hwy 50, Caledon. 905-584-2300 x260, www.ccs4u.org

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

Avening Annual Beef Barbeque Beef roasted over an open ﬁre, new potatoes, beans, coleslaw, homemade pie. Hungry yet? Help raise funds for the $70,000 needed to bring the beloved community centre up to ﬁre and electrical codes. 5–7:30pm. Avening Community Centre, Airport Rd, Avening. 705-466-3024, www.aveninghall.com

august 18 Food & Water First The citizens’ group that helped stop the mega quarry invites you to Honeywood for a day of local food, live music and great art. Kids’ activities, a farmers’ market and tractor rides to a beautiful lookout over the hills of Headwaters. Proceeds go to the Food & Water First campaign to protect Ontario’s prime farmland and source water regions. $5, children under 5 free. Honeywood Arena, 706114 County Rd 21. www.Ndact.com

communityy now – may 19 Albion Hills Community Farm CSA Registration How about a weekly supply of fresh, local and naturally grown vegetables? Sign up online. Spaces are ﬁlling fast. The program runs from late June until the end of October. $600 gets you a full share; $325 a half share. What better way to get your 10 a day? 16555 Humber Station Rd, Caledon, L7E 3A5. 647-981-6281, www.albionhillscommunityfarm.org

may 25 Grand Valley Lions Free Community Breakfast Join the Lions on Duck Race Day for sausages, eggs, pancakes, toast, juice and coffee. Ducks drop in the river at 2pm. The breakfast runs from 8–11am. Other events, such as garage and plant sales, happen all day throughout the town. Grand Valley Community Centre, Gr 90 Main St N. 519-928-5470, www.grandvalleylions.com

june 1

june 15

Palgrave United Church Barbeque Pork Chop Dinner There’ll be lots of pork chops, baked potatoes, a large variety of salads, baked beans and – the best part – cake and ice cream for dessert! You can even buy fresh chops to take home. 5–7pm. $15. 34 Pine Ave, Palgrave. 905-880-0303, palgraveunitedchurch@rogers.com

A Day on the Farm at Sheldon Creek Dairy Enjoy a delicious pancake breakfast, watch the cooking demos, stroll through the farmers’ market, listen to live music and meet the cows. Join us in celebrating local foods. 10am–4pm. Free. Sheldon Creek Dairy Farm, 4316 RR #2 Loretto. 705-4340404, www.sheldoncreekdairy.ca

june 5

june 22

Albion Hills Community Farm AGM with Sarah Elton Get an update on the farm’s future plans for providing locally grown food to the area. Author/CBC journalist Sarah Elton will discuss local food issues. Pick up her bestselling books Consumed and Locavore. 6:30–8:30pm. Free. Palgrave United Church Community Kitchen, 34 Pine Ave. 647-9816281, www.albionhillscommunityfarm.org

St. Andrew’s Stone Church Scottish Afternoon Join the Friends of St. Andrew’s Stone Church for an afternoon of everything Scottish, including a barbeque lunch, Chanda Leahy’s step dancers, piper Joe Thompson, ﬁddlers, Scottish folk singers, historical artifacts and information, and more. Noon–4:30pm. $10; children $5. 17621 St. Andrew’s Rd, Caledon. 905-584-5001, ericaepratt@gmail.com

june 6 – november 2 Everdale Harvest Share What’s better than fresh, local, organic vegetables you can pick up yourself? Sign up and choose what you take home, your share size, and the number of weeks. Pick Thursdays (3–8pm) or Saturdays (8:30–11:30am). Everdale Organic Farm and Environmental Learning Centre, 5812 6th Line, Hillsburgh. 519-855-4859 x170, www.everdale.org

june 22 Hockley United Church’s Strawberry Pancake Breakfast Great food. Great fun. Great deals. Scrumptious pancakes, sausages, strawberries, whipped cream, tea and coffee. 8–11am. $6; children 10 and under $4. Hockley Seniors & Community Hall, 994174 MonoAdjala Town Line, Hockley Village. 905-7292887, sandra.patterson2681@gmail.com

june 7 WOW! Wines of the World Sample from over 60 brands of wine, beer, and local cider while savouring ovenroasted sirloin roast beef sliders, plus assorted sandwiches. Enjoy live music with door prizes including a free motor home for a weekend. And don’t worry – Home James offers a limited designated driver service. 6–8:30pm. Caledon Equestrian Park, 200 Pine Ave, Palgrave. Tickets $40, for purchase locations, contact Palgrave Rotary Club, 905583-0200, www.rotaryclubofpalgrave.com

july 1 Knox United Church Strawberry Supper How about a strawberry supper? Enjoy juicy berries and an assortment of great cakes. 4–7pm. $12; children 5–10 $6; pre-school free. Knox United Church, 2976 Charleston Sdrd, Caledon Village. 519-927-3320, revsuecampbell@gmail.com

Fine Dining Casual Atmosphere on Hockley Road 307388 Hockley Rd • Orangeville 519 938 2333

continued on nex t page spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

what’s cooking in thec ahills lendar of food happenings festivals may 25

july 6

july 19 – 21

2nd Annual Garlic Mustard Pull Pull invasive garlic mustard in the morning, then enjoy a free barbeque and games. You can also pull it at home the week before, bring it to the CVC drop-off zone to enter your name in a draw. Free yard bags at Belfountain Public School and Credit Valley Conservation. Get a rafﬂe ticket for each ﬁlled bag. 10am–1pm. Belfountain Conservation Area. 519-927-5212, www.garlicmustardbusters.ca

Orangeville’s 150th Birthday Bash! Orange Lawrence would be so proud! Join in the free community breakfast and lunch, horse-drawn wagon rides, heritage walking tours, demonstrations, vendors, a juried art show and buskers. Afternoon and evening entertainment, including Hannah Chapplain and Campﬁre Poets. 8am–10pm. Downtown Orangeville. 519941-0440 x2252, www.orangeville150.ca

Cuisine-Art at the Alton Mill The Alton Mill’s studios and galleries host food and beverage tasting stations, special art showings and collaborative food-art activities, including hourly chef demonstrations, a daily cook-off with duelling chefs, and a ﬁne-food marketplace. Get a sneak peek of the weekend on Friday evening: enjoy dinner and a cash bar al fresco followed by the Humber River Shakespeare Company’s presentation of As You Like It under the tent in the Annex Courtyard. Dinner options $10 and up from 5:30pm. Theatre begins 7pm. Advance tickets $20 at www.humberrivershakespeare.ca. Saturday noon–9pm. Sunday noon–5pm. Advance tickets $20 ($30 at the gate) includes $10 in sampling tickets. Alton Mill Arts Centre, 1402 Queen St, Alton. 519-941-9300, www.altonmill.ca

july 12 – 14 july 1 Caledon Canada Day Strawberry Festivall Start the day with a melt-in-your-mouth strawberry pancake breakfast with all the trimmings. Then celebrate Canada’s 146th birthday with a car show, dog demonstrations, “Christmas in July” craft and artisan sale, magic show, petting zoo and more. Relax during the festivities at the Bavarian garden or tea room. 9am–4pm. Caledon Agricultural Society Fairgrounds, Caledon Village. www.caledonfairgrounds.ca

july 1 Downey’s Canada Day Strawberry Festival The strawberry pancake breakfast begins at 9am, $7 per person. Then pick your own strawberries, or buy fresh-picked ones and strawberry treats in the bakery. The day includes live entertainment. 9am–5pm. Downey’s Farm Market, 13682 Heart Lake Rd, Caledon. 905-838-2990, www.downeysfarm.com

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

Bolton Rotary Ribfest Three days of family fun, food and entertainment. Award-winning ribbers, farmers’ market, 10 live bands including Tia Brazda and Larry Berrio, mechanical bull, classic cars and motorcycles, midway. Free. Friday and Saturday noon–11pm. Sunday noon–6pm. Albion Bolton Community Centre, 150 Queen St S, Bolton. 416-949-8304, www.boltonrotaryribfest.ca bfest.ca

july 19 – 21 Orangeville Rotary Ribfest Vote for your favourite of six world-famous ribbers during this weekend of fantastic food and great music. Enjoy the beer tent, vendors, midway and continuous entertainment. It’s all part of a $250,000 fundraising campaign to bring a splashpad and other improvements to Fendley Park. Free, donations appreciated. Fri 4–10pm. Sat 11am–10pm. Sun 11am–6pm. Alder Street Recreation Centre, Orangeville. 519-942-0267, www.orangevilleribfest.com

august 13 – september 1 SummerFeast Experience delectable culinary creations at excellent prices at some of the ﬁnest restaurants in Headwaters. Each offers a dinner menu, and in many cases also a lunch menu, at “prix ﬁxe” rates. The Hills of Headwaters Tourism Association, 519942-0314, www.thehillsofheadwaters.com

august 25 A Taste of Dufferin Show the kids where their food comes from. Sample fresh, delicious food grown and raised in Dufferin. Local restaurants pair with local farmers to produce delicious creations. Rebecca Landman’s lovely farm features large gardens, beautiful dry stone walls and an authentic blackhouse. 2–5pm. Landman Gardens and Bakery, 322345 Concession 6-7, Grand Valley. 519-9386163, www.landmangardens.ca

fairss

kids

june 7 – 9

may 22

153rd Caledon Fair New meets old at one of Ontario’s oldest agricultural fairs, with dairy and beef contests, home baking and crafts, beer garden, plus agricultural “know-how.” Over a thousand competitions including a truck and tractor pull, lawn tractor challenge , country hoedown barbeque, Muir Family concert, all-breeds horse show, the Agricultural Awareness Pavilion and draft horse pull. $10 Friday. $8 Saturday and Sunday. $15 per car. $2 children under 14. Caledon Fairgrounds, Caledon Village. www.caledonfairgrounds.ca

Baby Steps with Nutritionist Karen Wismer From starting solids, to making baby food, to ideas for picky eaters, Karen answers your infant nutritional concerns and questions. 1:30–3pm. Free, register online. All Saints Anglican Church, 81 Main St, Erin. 519-833-9696 x227. www.meetup.com/EWCScchildrens-programs

tours june 8 Edible Wild Lisa Yates, Dufferin County’s master herbalist and folklorist, leads a walk to identify edible and medicinal wild plants. Everything you need to know when you forget your GPS and get lost in the woods. 9:30am–noon. $10; children free, register. Mansﬁeld Outdoor Centre, 937365 Regional Rd 18, Mansﬁeld. Dufferin South Simcoe Land Stewardship Network, 705435-1881 x23, www.dufferinmuseum.com

june 15

Everdale Farm Camp Let your child be a real farmer for a week! Campers participate in daily farm chores, help care for the livestock and work in the market garden. At the end of each day they’ll come home loaded with goodies from the farm, smiling and brimming with storiess about their day. $200/week. 9:30am–3:30pm. 3:30pm. Everdale, 5812 6th Line, ne, Hillsburgh. 519-855-4859, 4859, www.farmkids.everdale.org ale.org /kids-farm-camp

july 22 – july 26

Get Saucy! AT THE ANNUAL

ORANGEVILLE ROTARY RIBFEST

From Dirt to Delicious Summer Camp Kids 9 to 12 will be harvesting, cooking and eating local, seasonal food and having loads of fun as they cook their way through the week. 9am–4pm. $150, includes food. Palgrave Community Kitchen, 34 Pine Ave, Palgrave. Albion Hills Community Farm, 905-880-0303, www.palgravekitchen.org

More Edible Wild Join Lisa Yates again to explore the forest and ﬁelds in east Caledon. Discover numerous edible and medicinal wild plants and enjoy a wild lunch in a rustic forest cabin. 10am–2:30pm. $60, register. 16962 Mountainview Rd, Caledon East. 519-2167816, kindredtree@aol.com

july 8 – 12, 15 – 19, 22 – 26

THE ROTARY CLUB OF ORANGEVILLE

continued on nex t page

9, 2

13 0 & 21 2 0

ALDER STREET REC CENTRE

ADMISSIONN IS FREE BUT DONATIONS FOR THE FENDLEY PARK SPLASHPAD WILL BE GRATEFULLY ACCEPTED

www.orangevilleribfest.com spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

what’s cooking in thec ahills lendar of food happenings courses Everdale Organic Farm Everdale courses are held at Everdale from 9am–noon and cost $45, unless otherwise noted. 5812 6th Line Erin, near Hillsburgh. 519-855-4859, www.everdale.org

may 4 – oc tober 26 Alliston Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8am–2pm. Mill St & Victoria St. 705-435-1787, www.allistonbia.com

june 5 – oc tober 9 may 24 Harvesting Techniques for Vegetables

may 24 Planting a Pollinator Garden (held at Black Creek Community Farm, 4929 Jane St, Toronto)

june 5 Drip Irrigation for the Market Garden

may 30 – oc tober 17

Food Forest Theory and Practice

june 21 Introduction to Beekeeping keeping

july 12 Pigs on Pasture

june 14 – september 27

Canning and Preserving ing ($85, 10am–4pm)

Erin Farmers’ Market Fridays, 3–7pm. Erin Agricultural Society Fairgrounds. 519-833-2808; www.erinfair.ca

may 11 – oc tober 26

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

Shelburne Farmers’ Market Thursdays, 3 – 7pm. Besley Country Market, Victoria St. shelburnefarmersmarket2013@ gmail.com

august 10

farmers’ markets

Wayne Speers Orangeville 519-941-2708 waynespeers@bell.net speersfarmsamaranth.ca

june 12 – oc tober 9 Inglewood Farmers’ Market Wednesdays, 3:30–7pm. Village of Inglewood. 905-584-6221; www.eatlocalcaledon.org

june 1

We serve and sell premium, top-quality, great-tasting beef. Always tender and juicy. Always hormone and antibiotic-free. Try our new line of delicious glutenfree pork and poultry products. Call or e-mail to order. Our mobile kitchen serves smoked beef, all-beef franks, sausage, peameal and egg & cheese on a bun. Find us at your local farmers’ market.

Amaranth Farmers’ Market Wednesdays, 4:30–8pm. Amaranth Municipal Ofﬁce, 374028 6th Line. 519-941-1007, bogie@execulink.com

Orangeville Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8am–1pm. Second St & Broadway. Orangeville BIA, 519-942-0087, www.orangevillefarmersmarket.ca

may 18 – oc tober 12 Creemore Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8:30am–12:30pm. Station on the Green. 705-794-8943; www.creemorefarmersmarket.ca

june 8 – oc tober 12 Caledon Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 9am–2pm. Albion Bolton Community Centre, 150 Queen St S, Bolton. 905-584-2272 x4286; www.caledon.ca/farmersmarket

june 21 – oc tober 11 Rosemont Farmers’ Market Fridays, 3–7pm. Orange Hall parking lot, Hwy 89, Rosemont. pam@pamssoaps. com 왗

end note

Dan Needles is a writer who raises freezer-order lamb, beef, chicken and pork on his farm near Collingwood.

Regulators closing the door on local meat | by dan needles The rapid decline of the small abattoir poses a threat to the future of farmland and local food that is every bit as serious as a mega quarry or urban sprawl. At the present rate of closure, the small plants that give residents the option of buying meat direct from a farm will disappear entirely from Ontario agriculture by the end of this decade. About two years ago, Food In The Hills visited local abattoirs and reported that, in spite of the challenges presented by regulations and a difficult economy, the small plants were holding their own and the future for locally sourced meat looked bright. Since then, of the three plants featured in that story, Holly Park in Bolton and Metheral Meats in Dunedin have closed their doors. Only Stayner Meat Packers remains in business. Metheral’s was widely regarded as one of the best-run small abattoirs in the province. Family owned and built new in 1991, it has been upgraded regularly as standards change. Until last December it processed 600 beef cattle and 3,000 lambs a year. Small plants have several real advantages over industrial plants – employee morale is higher and staff turnover much lower. Workers who enjoy their jobs tend to treat animals humanely and take pride in the finished product. And they all work in plain view of the same community where they live, which gives them added incentive to do good work. It is significant that the meat recalls of the past decade have rarely involved small plants.

To listen to the Ontario Ministry of Agriculture and Food, we live in the best of all possible worlds. Local meat, they say, is freely available, carefully regulated and completely safe. Safe it may be, but availability is another matter. Small-scale livestock production is in free fall in Ontario. Rising grain and hay prices, sharply higher processing costs, and competition from box store meat retailers have reduced profit margins and put producers at a crossroads.

It is significant that the meat recalls of the past decade have rarely involved small plants. Meat inspection in Canada is divided between the Federal Government and the provinces. Any meat that crosses a provincial border for sale must be inspected in a federal plant. These are the high-volume factories run by Maple Leaf Foods, XL and Cargill, and they supply the grocery and restaurant chains of the nation, with most of the meat consumed in Canada. The small producer who wants to sell to his own customers must find a provincially inspected plant. Until a decade ago they dotted the landscape – more than 800 in Ontario in the 1970s, dropping to 500 in the 1990s, down to fewer than 130 today. The provincial regulations were originally put in place to get farmers to stop slaughtering animals on the farm and take them to clean, professional and humane

plants. For decades it was considered a duty of the provincial ministry to ensure farm communities had access to well-run local kill plants. But that has changed. As an inspector told me when I picked up a few boxes of my own meat for a freezer order customer, “The system wasn’t meant to allow you to sell your own meat. It’s supposed to be just for your personal use.” That is not true, but it is becoming more the case as the attitude of regulators hardens toward the small producer. They are making it clear that, in their view, consumers should buy their meat in a grocery store or restaurant, but nowhere else. They are tolerating farm sales of meat for the moment in Ontario, but every year there is an expensive new ear tag, a new transport rule, or a costly new packaging requirement. Regulators are slowly shutting the door on local meat processing and the way of life that once supported it. A turning point for Neil Metheral happened when he phoned an inspector’s supervisor in Guelph to question one of the new rules. The reply he got was, “You don’t ask questions. You do what you are told.” That attitude and the expense of the regulations wore him out. Now the plant sits empty, its 15 employees looking for work and some livestock producers in the community wondering if they should bother with farm sales. “It’s a broken system and I don’t even know if you can fi x it,” says Neil. “They don’t look at the plant itself. They just look at their regulation book.” 왗

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

best bites Soulyve Reggae Wraps

Soulyve Caribbean Kitchen 19 Mill Street Orangeville 519-307-5983 www.soulyve.ca

spring summer 2013 | food in the hill s

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best bites Whether it’s a veal sandwich in Bolton, a butter tart in Erin, wings at your local pub, or a chocolate sundae at the diner down the street, we want to hear about the best kept food secrets in the hills. You tell us and if we agree, we’ll reveal them right here. Submit your nominations at www.foodinthehills.ca.

photo pete paterson

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We proudly carry fresh, certiďŹ ed organic produce.

Eat Fresh for Better Health! Come in for our famous fresh produce, wide selection of organic meats, specialty foods and organic products, and visit our garden centre with its extensive selection of hanging baskets, annuals, perennials and shrubs.

We proudly carry antibiotic- and hormone-free meats.

We carry frozen organic meats. We also have a selection of fresh antibiotic and hormone free beef, pork, lamb and chicken from Liberterre and Beretta Family Farms and fresh organic chicken from Yorkshire Valley Farms. Livestock raised within Canada. Canadian Angus Rancher endorsed. Owned and Operated for 30 Years

501 Queen Street South in Bolton | www.gardenfoodsmarket.com | 905-857-1227

Creemore Farmers’ Market Saturdays 8:30am - 12:30pm Victoria Day to Thanksgiving The Station on the Green, 10 Caroline St East

creemorefarmersmarket.ca

Caledon Farmers’ Market Saturdays 9am - 2pm June 8th - October 12th 150 Queen Street South, Bolton

caledon.ca/farmersmarket

Alliston Farmers’ Market Saturdays 8am - 2pm May through October Mill Street, Alliston

www.allistonbia.com

Inglewood Farmers’ Market Wednesdays 3:30pm - 7pm June 12th - October 9th Village of Inglewood, 15596 McLaughlin Rd.

eatlocalcaledon.org/farmers-markets/ inglewood-farmers-market

Amaranth Farmers’ Market Wednesdays 4:30pm - 8pm June 5th - October 9th Amaranth Municipal Oﬃce 374028 6th Line

bogi@execulink.com

Orangeville Farmers’ Market Saturdays 8am - 1pm May 11th - October 26th Next to Town Hall, Downtown Orangeville

orangevillefarmersmarket.ca

Shelburne Farmers’ Market Thursdays 3pm - 7pm May 30th - October 17th Besley Country Market, Victoria St.

shelburnefarmersmarket2013@gmail.com

Rosemont Farmers’ Market Fridays 3pm - 7pm June 21st - October 11th Next to Globe Restaurant Hwy 89

pam@pamssoaps.com