Steep learning curve

“Ever since I started growing my own herbs, I discovered there is more than one way to brew tea,” writes Julia Dimakos in her book Tea Gardening for Beginners

Julia shares the following tips on black and herbal tea brewing. If you want to experiment with the slight temperature variations she suggests, consider using a standard or electric kettle with a built-in thermometer.

GREEN TEA

Green tea can taste bitter if you steep for too long in too-hot water. Steep for less than a minute at 80C to 85C.

WHITE TEA

Steeping at 80C to 85C will result in a floral and fruity flavour. At 90C to 95C you’ll notice a woodsier flavour. Steep for three to four minutes.

OOLONG TEA

You want to brew oolong at a higher temperature, just below the boiling point, at 90C to 97C. Brew for one or two minutes.

BLACK TEA

At lower temperatures, 80C to 85C, the tea will be fruitier and lighter. At 90C to 100C you’ll get a more woody, spicy drink.

HERBAL TEAS

Decoctions

Place denser dried plant material like roots in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil, then simmer for at least 20 minutes.

INFUSIONS

Pour boiled water between 95C and 100C over dried leaves, flowers or fruit and steep for at least four or five minutes. Some plants contain tannins. Lowering the heat to between 90C and 94C, and steeping for five to 15 minutes, will prevent tannins from taking over.

COLD BREWING

Add two or three tablespoons of the tea blend to a large glass canning jar or pitcher. Fill to the top with water. Close the lid and place in the refrigerator. Leaves take at least eight hours, roots need 24 hours, and flowers, fruits and seeds fall somewhere in-between. This produces a sweet, gentle tea.

— ADAPTED FROM TEA GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS may help safely lower blood pressure, and mullein leaf is recommended to alleviate upper respiratory congestion.

Or, if you have the space, designate a garden for it and let it run free.”

CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS PAGE to get from the tea. If I’m looking for an energy boost, I like to create a tangy, lemony tea or a refreshing blend with mint. If I’m feeling under the weather, I choose more medicinal plants. I rarely drink a single herbal tea.”

Julia dries plant material for anywhere from 12 to 24 hours in a dehydrator, set at a low temperature for leaves or flowers, or higher for plants that contain a lot of moisture, like fruit and roots. Another option is to hang the leaves to dry or lay them out on drying racks. This method is not recommended for fruit as it may attract insects or start to mould.

After those steps, the tea is ready. So, what flavours does Julia reach for?

“I prefer to create tea blends on the go, based on my mood, or what I’m hoping

A wellness drink

For some, like Joey, those medicinal properties are what drew them to tea production. Joey sees himself as part of an ancient and enduring practice. “Throughout history people have steeped plant material in hot water,” he says, “with a belief in its power to improve many physical and emotional issues without side effects.”

For instance, he says, ginger is known to ease stomach upset, hibiscus

Mikayla Stinson, who founded Kenneth Ave Co. in 2020, says the healing potential of tea inspired her foray into the business. “When I was growing up in Erin and dealing with stomach issues, my Oma used to always make me a cup of peppermint tea to soothe my stomach,” she says. “I hold those memories close to my heart.”

Mikayla named her company after the street in Erin where her grandparents lived. And that mint now appears in her Yoga tea, along with rosehip, calendula and osmanthus petals.

Naomi Higenbottam, of Bloom Naturally in Caledon, is on the same wavelength. Her family’s British roots meant black tea was a household mainstay when Naomi was growing up. Now, as a lactation consultant, nurse and holistic nutritionist with an expertise in herbalism, she is a herbal tea booster.

Naomi developed her line in 2014 to support common conditions her clients faced such as gas, bloating, skin irritations and breast milk supply problems. Her most popular tea is the Relieve Digestive Tea, specially formulated to help soothe the stomach, reduce bloating and aid in digestion. A sip reveals strong notes of ginger and mint, with a hint of chamomile and fennel – the 100 per cent organic mix, sourced wholesale from Toronto’s Honest Leaf – is also visually appealing, evoking a field of wildflowers dotted with chamomile heads.

The pleasure purveyors

While all local tea makers offer herbal and soothing brews, many also dabble in playful culinary blends. Caledon’s Amanda Luthra crafts a range of savoury South Asian spice blends under her ChillyPaste brand (see page 84 for more) – and she’s given the same level of care to her masala chai blend, which builds on Assam black tea leaves with 12 aromatic spices.

At Kenneth Ave Co., now headquartered in Guelph, black tea is a base for fanciful dessert flavours. “Our brand is about unique and fun blends of tea,” Mikayla says. Imagine the taste of cookie dough, birthday cake or caramel folded into a tanninrich base tea. Custom and seasonal blends are also available – watch for one inspired by Cadbury Mini Eggs in spring. The company’s green tea lineup includes Mango Matcha and its rooibos, a reddish, smooth and naturally caffeine-free tea, is mixed with chocolate and caramel.

A similar penchant for alchemy is behind Maggie Morrison’s Clearview Tea Co. The company is best known for their Creemore Market Blend, a black tea with touches of vanilla and bergamot (the floral hit in Earl Grey) notes. Ivory Cable-Knit Sweater marries black tea with vanilla and pinky rose petals. Two years ago, they opened a tea and gift shop in Schomberg, complete with a blending room. Maggie and her husband, Ian Morrison, have largely taken over the business (after Rebecca decided to follow her passion and complete architecture school in Nova Scotia).

Like her fellow tea growers and blenders, Maggie can’t imagine a day without a steady supply of tea in near-infinite varieties. “Black tea is my favourite; I always start my day with it and switch to herbal teas or rooibos by the afternoon.

“Tea is so versatile, there is a tea for any mood.”