8 minute read
Tsimane Gold: Highly Addictive
Follow Florian Kaiser and Katka Švagrová into the dense Bolivian jungle in search of trophy dorado in the pristine headwaters of the Amazon: A place where an old, forgotten world comes alive and big bars of gold can be sight-fished in knee-deep water.
By: FLORIAN KAISER Photography by: FLORIAN KAISER AND KATKA ŠVAGROVÁ
The Bolivian Jungle and its Golden Dorado provide a special appeal for every seasoned and global traveling fly fisher. During the last years Dorado were pretty much everywhere on social media and more serious publications. And that is not without a reason. Fishing for Dorados in South America is special. Those merciless, forceful but at times still tricky kings of those jungle rivers are a thrill to hunt with your barbless Deceivers. And – be warned – it is highly addictive!
Add to the outstanding fishery a breathtaking destination in terms of remoteness, integration of indigenous Tsimane people, untouched nature, ambience and extravagance and you end up with the classic and trendsetting Tsimane lodges by Untamed Angling in Bolivia. Copied but never matched, the three lodges are second to none. Seven years ago that place linked to my heart, I went back once more in the meantime and was now on my third visit with my fishing friend Katka, a young and super professional fly fisher and guide from the Czech Republic.
This trip let me witness the joy of discovering Tsimane a second time as it was the first trip to Tsimane for Katka. Our plan was to go remote and to spend as much time in an out-camp on the upper part of the Secure river as possible. At least that was the plan. Sometimes health dictates other plans as Katka, somehow, ended up bringing some unwelcome souvenirs from the international travel.
Thus, we had to start fishing the first days lodge-based, which wasn’t entirely bad as it got her used to fish for Dorados. Casting close to structure again and again, working the water structure was no issue for her as her routine, dedication and casting abilities are second to none.
We caught lots of small Dorados. In September 2018 we did not catch quite as many fish in the 10 – 20lbs range as I would have expected and was “used” to from my trips before. There was, however, a simple explanation for that: a huge log jam downriver that limited the migrating bigger Dorados to swim upriver.
Nevertheless, compared to my two visits, the sheer number of fish between 3 and 7lbs was an excellent sign for fish population in the years to come. (By the way, a good reason to come back for the fourth time).
Personally, I prefer excellent fishing in combination with excellent accommodation. Tsimane provides all that. After a 2 ½ hour flight in a small plane you touch ground right in the middle of the Bolivian Jungle, a short boat transfer brings you right to the spacious lodge facilities where hosts and guides welcome you with appetizers and drinks. After a few moments you feel at home and calm down and at the same time get excited facing the fishing to come.
As your anticipation rises to a critical level you start rigging one of your two 9’ 8# rods (e.g. a Scott Meridian or Radian) you brought with a WF-8 (or 9) intermediate tip. You attach a barbless (never anything else!) black and orange Deceiver to 40cm of 30lbs wire, connected to 40-50lbs level leader. Now you are ready to sneak down to the home pool and kiss your first Dorado.
The fascination of Dorado is based on their super aggressive character, their trout-like beautiful shape, gleaming golden coloration, the way they terrorize the river and their finical behavior at times. You might be able to catch fish by fish on certain days and on other days the one fish makes all the difference. Sometimes you fish with big bulky flies that cause a wake in the murky water of the lower river sections casting close to huge logs from the drifting boat. All of a sudden - BOOOM - you think you hooked a trunk but as you feel it moving you realize that a 15lb Dorado just inhaled your fly, the fish already acrobatic in the air making you scream and giggle with joy.
In other situations, particularly the clear low headwater sections of the rivers you might fish small sparsely tied flies in dull colors sneaking quietly up the river as if it was a trout stream in Slovenia. The only difference is that in the background you hear that characteristic sound of a Jaguar some kilometers away and a Tsimane points you silently in the direction of a good sized Dorado in the distance.
The Tsimane know their river in every single detail and even the excellent, friendly, and hardworking Argentinian fishing guides once in a while ask for their guidance.
Fishing usually is done lodge based in some kind of a beat system, guides change day by day and fish various sections of the rivers with you and your fishing mate sharing a boat/ guide and a couple of Tsimane guides that take very good care of you. After a short boat transfer you have reached your beat for the day and start fishing from the drifting boat or fish the faster running kind of rapid sections wet wading.
A special appeal for the fit and seasoned angler is provided by the upriver out camps. All three Tsimane lodge sites provide that special option. You might miss luxury comfort of the lodge but nature and fishing is even one step up. Those upriver camps provide you access to sections of the rivers that in clear low water conditions are New Zealand trout stream lookalikes but are inhabited by one of the most aggressive freshwater species out there. You are right in the middle of the lungs of our Mother Earth. You are at a truly pristine place and are blessed to experience that.
When you are there, reflect about the situation of our oneand-only planet and what you can do to make it a better place for generations of humans and animals to follow!
I could bore you with endless stories about Katka’s close to fanatic fishing attitude, her fear of (non-existing) spiders and snakes, her catching an estimated 20lbs dream dorado on the second attempt, her anger about losing that fish in her first attempt after I made her fish barbless (without a tight line and a too long fight you might lose every fish), about special Mr. Outcamp, or her thrill and excitement about that “trip of a lifetime”. I don’t want to bore you by accounting how we all caught at least one of the pleasantly challenging Pacus. All of that is only of true relevance for the ones that did experience it.
You will make your very own lasting memories and adventures when you go and experience that magic place! The comfortable lodge camps are made of either several safari tents (or huts) for two guests each (en suite), staff huts, kitchen, storage, and one big house for dinner and fish tales after and before the fishing sessions. As the jungle is very friendly during the dry or “good weather” season as the Tsimane call it, you might have your after dinner Whiskey and cigar outside on the veranda.
Insects are rather few during the season. Nevertheless, it is recommended to wear long clothes during the day and at night - and to use insect repellant and sunscreen accordingly. The only real danger in the jungle is caused by bloody angler behavior and a slight chance of sting rays that can be avoided by taking care.
Some final words for preparation: take two to three rods in the 8 or 9-weight range that last and won’t break upon the first abuse (I’ve had that happen before with other brands). Scott Radian or Meridian 9’ 8# are an excellent choice, two WF floating and two intermediate tip lines each and one sinking line. 40 barbless deceiver flies with hook sizes up to 4/0 in a combination of black and bright colors (especially black and orange/yellow are good, but not exclusively). Add some fruit or surface flies for Pacu.
Leaders should be 40lbs level with 30 or 40lbs Stroft wire shock tippets. Bring stripping finger gloves, long nose pliers and good fitness to fish heavy lines for a week. Take the best wading boots with traction you can get: The latest Simms Flyweight with studs are perfect! Take a warm Patagonia jacket and a real rain jacket as the occasional cool days tend to be cold and wet. Add a waterproof backpack such as the ones from Patagonia or Simms and you are safe in case of a dip or shower.
The typical season is late June to early October. All three lodge destinations are managed in the same caring way and provide unique fishing. Are you hooked? For me it is about time to set up plans to go back there for the fourth time! Last piece of advice: book your trip to Tsimane soon - you will have a blast!
CONTACT: Tsimane is and Untamed Angling destination and all details can be found at www.untamedangling.com
If you have questions contact the author: florian.kaiser@gmail.com
http://theflyfishingfamily. blogspot.com
