6 minute read
MONGOLIA: The Last Refuge of the “River Wolf”
Maybe the most interesting feeling to share about Mongolia is that fishing is what gets you there in first place - and the fishing is amazing, trust me! - but the fishing alone isn’t why you will be craving to come back over and over again. The place has some otherworldly magic to it.
By IVAN DRAGOJLOVIC
In an era of hectic progress, there aren’t many places left to be discovered where time seems to be standing still, and I don’t mean “still” in the ”Ground Hog Day” sense of the word. I’m thinking about places frozen in time, at just the right moment, when everything in the natural world was still abundant and unspoiled; places that provide you with the opportunity to experience how things were eons ago.
North Mongolia is just that: The land of blue skies; a land where trees fall and grow on their own, where all rivers are drinkable and where all the food is organic. This unbelievable contrast to modern society’s cultivated “nature” is what pulls you back like a magnet. Fortunately, Mongolia is saved by its huge disproportion of its size and population, remoteness, lack of highways, electricity, and the choice of people not to accept the benefits of modern life and to continue cultivating the tradition of nomadic life in harmony with nature.
From 2007 and onwards, I have frequently revisited the same river, sometimes even several times a year. - Strange! Some might think. - How come he doesn’t get bored? This part is very hard to explain…
This place, somehow, enchanted me. It has ingrained in me some sort of primordial peace and a calm energy that my soul feeds on. And it’s not just me. I have guided many, many clients - clients who have traveled the world up and across. Each and every one is of them come back because of that special feeling, not so much the fish, (even though the fish are some of the world’s biggest of their kind!)
The Shisked River is one of the last true sanctuaries of the Hucho Taimen, the largest member of the trout family. Originating in the Khuvsgul area, the Shisked meanders through northern Mongolia flowing sedately towards the Russian Republic of Tuva. After the border, its name changes to Small Yenisei, which – further downstream – evolves into one of the world’s biggest rivers – the mighty Yenisei.
Being nomadic, the traditional Mongolian diet doesn’t include fish. Historically and culturally, the nomads never fished but, instead, mainly fed on livestock and whatever could be harvested in nature. What’s more, Hucho Taimen – “The river wolf ” – has traditionally been considered and worshiped as a sacred animal. These two historical facts have, thus far, protected and conserved the North Mongolia rivers to such an extent that, even now, there are many virgin waters.
However, the remoteness comes at a price. Logistics are terrible, and the only way of getting to the Shisked River is by Toyota Land Cruisers. This part of the travel, however, is to be considered an off-road safari. It’s actually a pretty amazing experience. What’s more, many non-fishing tourists book these kinds of off-road tours just to experience the unbelievable scenery and the sparse but unique wildlife.
Driving through the Mongolian steppe, crossing numerous rivers, and climbing mountains peaks over 2.500 meters is also a part of this truly unique adventure.
The road to the Shisked camp is an arduous but beautiful one, and the levels of excitement rise gradually by each traveled mile. Knowing that you are getting closer and closer awakens that tingling feeling in your gut we have come to love.
Mid-September is a period when the weather in Mongolia changes rapidly. The larch pines turn from yellow to green in just a few days, the nighttime temperatures plummet to below zero, the water temperatures slowly go down, and most importantly, the fish know it – and, as a result, they start to feed hectically in order to prepare for the harsh Mongolian winter.
The camp itself is situated on the banks of the confluence of the Shisked and Tengis rivers, it was built more than 20 years ago. Being made of newly renovated wooden logs, the lodge offers a community area and a great mix of Eastern and European food. Considering how remote you are, the lodge offers great comfort, and especially the fact that you are able to take a hot shower after a long day of fishing is something a lot of the guests find appealing.
From where the lodge is situated and further downstream, fishing is only possible by walking or rafting, no cars have ever been there, which helps further explain why the river is so pristine. Downstream, more than 30 kilometers of river awaits the fisherman.
The fishing itself is diverse and dynamic. Each day is different from the previous one. Some days are slower, but most of them are pretty crazy and I’ve never experienced a full day lacking in action and trophy Taimen photos. In one day, you can have it all: Sun, rain, snow, and wind. You could be out on the river freezing your ass off and half an hour later you will have resorted to short sleeves because you’re steaming hot.
Rafting down the river, going back to camp on horses, nights with music, great food and local beer, non-stop activity which comes with unbelievable ease: It all boils down to one of the most amazing and unique fishing adventures on the planet.
They say a picture is worth more than a thousand words, and I have thousands of pictures from previous trips to the Shisked. So, I’ll leave the rest up to the editor and keep it short and sweet. The countdown to my September adventure in Mongolia has already began.
