Kiruna in Swedish Lapland: Spoilt for Choice in a Northern Fly Fishing Paradise

Kiruna – Sweden’s northernmost town that is moving – is not only a uniquely accessible destination north of the Arctic Circle but also one of the most diverse fly-fishing destinations in Europe. Situated right on the border between the Scandinavian mountains in the west and the taiga in the east, Kiruna municipality boasts over 6,000 lakes, seven rivers, and countless streams and brooks. More possibilities for fishing adventures than can be explored in a lifetime.

By: DAN MELLA Photos by: HOOKÉ

Kiruna is something of a rarity as a world-class fly fishing destination far north of the Arctic Circle that is easily accessed by train, road and daily scheduled flights. From Kiruna Airport, a twenty minute drive takes you to two of the greatest grayling and brown trout waters in Sweden – the Torne River and the Kalix River, which make up two of Sweden’s four major national rivers. In theory, you could be feeling that tug on the end of the line within an hour of touching down at the airport.

As a fly fishing destination, Kiruna stands out in terms of the diversity it offers. Known for its grayling, arctic char, brown trout and Baltic salmon fishing, Kiruna is also gaining increasing international interest as a premium pike destination. Fishing for big, strong and often aggressive Arctic pike is an intense, adrenaline rush experience!

The Arctic Scenery

While the mining town of Kiruna cannot be described as picturesque, and especially not during its current relocation process, the magnificent Arctic scenery is always present in the background. The rivers flow from the high glaciers of the snow-capped mountains in the west and surrounding the town is barren tundra, wetlands and lakes, and endless boreal forests that stretch into Finland and Russia.

For the angler, who is accompanied by an adventurous family looking to do more than simply fish, there are a multitude of activities available in and around Kiruna. Icehotel 365 in Jukkasjärvi offers ice experiences yearround and the world’s largest and most modern underground iron ore mine, LKAB, can be explored with a guided tour. The indigenous Sámi culture is also part of Kiruna’s unique offering and identity, as are the northern lights and the midnight sun.

There are helicopter transfers available to the mountain regions and areas without road connections, including options where you fly upstream and paddle downstream.

The Right of Public Access

Thanks to Sweden’s unique Allemansrätten, the Right of Public Access, you are free to pitch your tent in the remote wilderness and enjoy complete solitude, or the company of any wildlife that might cross your path. If you prefer to have access to amenities there are several public camping sites in and around Kiruna, and simple but warm and comfortable cabins can be rented either privately or as part of an all-inclusive fishing experience.

Make sure there is a wood-fired sauna on the premises, bastu in Swedish, as there’s really nothing better after a long day of fishing. Staying at a hotel in Kiruna is also an option, thanks to the proximity of the town to quality fishing waters.

If you stay in Kiruna or are visiting to stock up on fishing gear, don’t miss the chance to order a cheese steak sub with reindeer or moose meat from the downtown food truck – a perfect stop before you visit a local bar to reflect on the day’s fishing over a glass of lingonberry juice - or maybe something stronger?

An Area Worth Exploring

Kiruna demands exploration and a combination of good quality roads and a vast network of gravel roads makes it possible to reach most parts of the municipality by car. There are helicopter transfers available to the mountain regions and areas without road connections, including options where you fly upstream and paddle downstream.

If you are short of time, learning from the knowledge of a professional fishing guide who has years of expertise in the area will save you time and allow you to enjoy the experience to its fullest. Thanks to accessible fishing waters and high service levels, Kiruna is a popular destination for incentive programs from both Sweden and abroad. An overnight fishing package that gives a taste of what the region has to offer is often enough to whet the appetite for exploring the destination further.

The Swedish author and fly fisherman Gunnar Westrin has been returning to the landscapes of the north frequently since his first visit to Sandåslandet in 1971. Still, Kiruna continues to deliver. Towards the end of the summer of 2020, he joined me on a grayling excursion to the upper parts of the Torne River:

“Our guests from the south broke their personal record every day, while Dan’s smile grew bigger and bigger. Despite the summer’s unusual circumstances, both in terms of the pandemic and the persistent high water flows, Kiruna delivered world-class fishing and one of the most spectacular grayling fishing experiences I ever had, in terms of weight.”

Fly fishing in Kiruna

When to go

Kiruna’s northern latitude, 145 kilometres north of the Arctic Circle, makes the fishing season short but intense. Typically, the season begins in June and continues until the end of September. The pike season opens at the beginning of June and the grayling season two weeks later, from June 15. The grayling is the first insect-eater of the season.

What to bring

For successful grayling fishing and a good chance of catching trophy grayling, I recommend bringing mayfly imitations (in June) and, for the rest of the season, flies that imitate the four stages of the Caddis Nymph Pupa. The biggest grayling are usually caught at the beginning and at the end of the season.

I recommend bringing light 8-10 rods in classes 4-6 for grayling and arctic char, and classes 7-9 for brown trout and pike. Hooks in sizes 1016 are preferred. Dry flies, nymphs, streamers, zonkers and wet flies are commonly used. When booking a fishing package through Fishing Kiruna Lapland, you will be provided with all the necessary information about recommended gear prior to your departure.

Dress for the Arctic

The night temperature can drop below freezing even in summer, especially in the mountains, so packing warm, layered clothing and a good sleeping bag is a must. If you arrive in September, a good head torch will come in handy.

Midnight sun & northern lights

From the end of May to mid-July, fishing in Kiruna takes place around the clock as the sun never sets. Fishing under the midnight sun is unlike any fishing trip that you have embarked on before.

Also during the first half of August the nights are bright enough for late evening fishing.

By the end of August the nights have darkened and the dancing northern lights are again visible in the sky. Statistically, you have the best chance of seeing the northern lights at the autumn equinox, which - during 2021 - occurs on September 22.

Guided fishing tours & more information

Fishing Kiruna Lapland offers a wide range of guided fishing tours suitable for groups as well as solo travellers. Please find inspiration and information about packages at:

www.kirunalapland.se/fishing

For more information contact Destination Manager Dan Mella directly, at:

dan@kirunalapland.se

“IN MY HOME WATERS

Another lovely morning dawns, and once again awakens my yearning for the magic of the Torne River. My expectations grow during the brief car journey along the gravel road; right, left and then right again. A short walk along an invisible trail leads me to one of my most treasured spots, beside this magical river. I feel welcome. I breathe in the surrounding environment.

It is late August, you can really feel that nature is settling down, following an intense summer. The Siberian jay, the journeyman’s unwavering companion, calls for my attention. In the distance the black-throated loon, this mythical bird of the wilderness, sounds its ghostly symphony, everything is as it should be. The sounds, the fragrances, the tranquil neck of water wants to show me what it has to offer. A couple of clearly visible, waking fish really pique my interest.

As the fire lights up and the coffee pot is filled to the brim, I tackle up for a pleasant day of hopefully amazing grayling fishing. I can actually, confidently claim that this is one of the best grayling waters in Europe. I let a large balsa wood pupa plough its way along the edge of the stream, to the

rock on the bank that has never let me down. I have fished this stretch more times than I can remember, during all snow-free seasons. I know something will happen within the next few seconds. Calm, heavy tugs make the rod bend one more time before the hefty lady yields. I unhook the magnificent fish, without so much as touching it.

The day proceeds in much the same way, large grayling bring me joy and contentment. After a couple of hours of intense fishing, I stretch out by the campfire. I am no longer a young man, my mind drifts. How many miles have I not walked, rod in hand? It is, naturally, a difficult question to answer, and actually, a wholly uninteresting one too. The point is to make the most of every day. For me, fishing has been the motivation for miles and miles of hikes through forests and mountains. My life’s journey has taken me to other countries and new waters. These journeys have made me happy, in that I have found many majestic fish and had interesting encounters with kindred spirits. At the same time, the journeys have convinced me that it is right here, near the Torne River, that I belong. Knowing, recognising the mountains, forests and streams, grants me a calm that I can only find by my home waters.”