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Chile: Low Pressure Trout South of the Equator
The world is filled with some spectacular fly fishing destinations. Life just isn’t long enough to explore all of them. Although travelling to experience new waters is near the top of my adventure list, there are a small handful of locations that are so special they require multiple return visits. Chilean Patagonia is that special place for me. The magical elixir of emerald green waters, dry fly loving trout, verdant mountains capped with glaciers and a vast variety of waters provides a setting that is truly unique for wild trout anglers.
By: BRIAN MCGEEHAN Photos by: MONTANA ANGLER FLY FISHING
Although Chile is the longest country in South America, the trout fishing zone is located in the southern third of the country with most of the more renowned fisheries between Puerto Mount and Tierra Del Fuego. Most of our travels to Chile have focused on an 800km zone between the small towns of Futaleufu to Cochrane where the majority of Chile’s lodges and guide services are located. Within this region anglers will find more than a lifetime’s worth of wild trout waters to explore.
A blend of the American West and New Zealand
Chile’s trout fisheries are truly unique and offer a lot of diversity. Some of the mountain fisheries look and fish like backcountry rivers of New Zealand’s South Island: clear waters offering site casting to larger fish (but lower fish counts). Other fisheries seem reminiscent of the American west including productive spring creeks, outlet rivers that fish like tailwaters and insect rich “valley rivers” with strong hatches and high fish counts. Chilean Patagonia is also home to some amazing lake fishing.
Lakes and smaller “lagunas” are in ample supply in the region and can offer some spectacular dry fly fishing over dragon fly hatches or while prospecting mouse patterns or large beetle patterns over woody structure or along cliff walls. The numerous lake systems often interconnect with rivers forming outlet rivers that behave like tailwaters with the large lakes filtering out sediments and helping to moderate clarity and flows.
Anglers visiting Chile can expect some chances at very large trout, but the size of the fish should not be the main draw for visiting the region. Due to the vast variety of fisheries, some waters are home to smaller fish and offer classic dry fly fishing. Other systems including some of the large rivers and many of the lakes can hold some truly big trout. Although the “big fish” aren’t as consistently massive as the jumbo rainbows of Jurassic Lake or the huge sea run browns in Tierra del Fuego; Chile’s big trout are found in more “classic” conditions in freestone rivers, spring creeks and cruising in the shallows of lakes.
When we set up trips to Chile we prefer to set our goals on a rich and varied wild trout fishing experience. This will nearly always involve fishing new water every day of the trip and incorporating a lot of variety such as wading spring creeks, floating big rivers and site casting on lakes.
Dry flies and streamers rule supreme
Perhaps the most appealing aspect of a trip to Chile is how we fish. Chilean trout are very surface-oriented and love to eat dry flies. The affinity for surface feeding is probably due to a blend of numerous variables including few aerial predators and a relatively low level of fishing pressure.
Whether you are on one of Patagonia’s large windy lakes, on a small spring creek or floating a mountain river chances are good you can throw dries. Occasionally Chilean trout will become selective during strong hatches to smaller insects, but more often than not casting larger attractor flies are the norm.
With its proximity to the Pacific, Chilean Patagonia receives a lot of moisture, especially on waters close to the coast. There are lots of micro climates ranging from temperate rain forests to semi arid pampas near the Argentine border. When Pacific storms roll in, the mountain rivers can rise and water temps drop.
Although water clarity can still remain good thanks to numerous lakes interconnecting rivers, weather systems can put the dry fly fishing off. When these conditions prevail streamer fishing can be truly outstanding. Ripping streamers can also be effective on sunny days as well with flashier patterns. As can be expected on most waters, stripping streamers often produces some big fish.
Throwing streamers and dry flies are pretty high on my list when it comes to the enjoyment factor when fly fishing, but I still enjoy a good day of nymph fishing. Interestingly dry flies or streamers seem to out produce nymph rigs on many of the mountain and lake fisheries. I have had some success sight-nymphing on small spring creeks which has been both challenging and highly enjoyable. There are also a few rivers with high fish counts where double nymph rigs can be quite effective where fish stage in drop offs below riffles.
Although nymphing isn’t out of the question when fishing Chile’s trout waters, I have found that less than 5% of all of my fishing days have involved traditional nymph rigs. I would guess that my personal breakdown in fishing techniques in Chile ends up around 80% dry fly fishing, 15% streamer fishing and 5% or less of nymphing or swinging flies.
Low pressure trout
Another appealing factor that keeps drawing me back to Chilean Patagonia is the relatively light fishing pressure that can be expected. While fly fishing is gaining in popularity amongst native Chileans, it is still a newer pastime for residents. If you do encounter another angler on the water, there is a good chance they have travelled from abroad. The large number of rivers, lack of local population and the long travel distances for visiting anglers all add up to result in lots of water to fish without a lot of competition. Most days we don’t see another angler when on the water. Although more lodges and guide services are springing up throughout Chilean Patagonia - there is still a lot of room to spread out.
The lack of fishing pressure is also readily apparent in the behavior of the region’s trout. Refusals are rare and trout can be quite aggressive. On multiple occasions I’ve experienced trout hitting large foam dries such as dragon fly patterns 4 or 5 times before getting hooked up. Since trout haven’t seen a lot of flies, larger patterns are often very effective. The larger presentations also move fish further and in the clear Chilean waters it can be quite a rush to watch a large brown move a long distance to intercept your offering.
The extensive variety of waters and the relative lack of anglers certainly enhances the overall experience of a visit to Chilean Patagonia. As the sport of fly fishing continues to gain popularity on a global level, we will certainly see increased pressure even on Chile’s great trout waters. For now, however, one of the great attributes of a Chilean fly fishing trip is the ability to stand in a productive river with the knowledge that you are often the only angler for miles in any direction.
Seasons and Hatches
Although good fishing can often be found year round throughout Chilean Patagonia, most anglers visit between October and April. In the spring months of October through early December even the most famous waters will be devoid of anglers. This is a fantastic time to visit and the trout are eager and hungry.
Spring is also a great time to target a few of the rivers with glacial runoff such as the Baker or Blanco that run low and clear (they are high in the warmer summer months when the glaciers melt).
The most popular travel window for international anglers is late December through mid March when European and North American fly fishers are escaping the northern hemisphere winter. This is summer in Patagonia and anglers can enjoy early summer hatches from mid december through mid January followed by some great terrestrial fishing in February and March.
Most Chilean hatches are named after their northern equivalents with caddis hatches and smaller mayflies most common. December and early January is also prime time for the unique dragon fly hatches that occur on the stillwaters. On warm days dragonflies explode from shallow reed beds in lakes by the thousands as large hungry trout eagerly leap out of the water to intercept them in mid air. Terrestrial season in the late summer is dominated by grasshoppers in the agricultural valleys and beetles in the mountains. Hopper fishing can be nothing short of amazing on the headwaters of rivers such as the Simpson or Nireguao. On mountain rivers and lakes the legendary Cantaria beetles begin to emerge by late January. These massive beetles are larger than your thumb and inspire some creative fly patterns as imitations.
The fall season from late March through April produces some outstanding opportunities for large brown trout. The numerous river systems that interconnect with large lakes provide some first class fall run fishing. While traditional fall streamer tactics can produce, large dry flies will often still be productive even later into the season.
Northern Chilean Patagonia
Northern Patagonia, near the small towns of Futaleufu and Chaiten, offers spectacular scenery with large rivers set within a backdrop of steep fjords.
Several large and productive lakes such as Lago Yelcho, Lago Verde and Lago Rosselot with big trout are also an attractive option for visiting anglers. Due to the topography in this region most of the fishing is done via boat. Most of the small streams in this region have a steep gradient and are a challenge to wade fish.
On rivers such as the Futaleufu, Yelcho, Palena and Figueroa visiting guests may target the rivers in a blend of catarafts or jet boats. Logistics for float trips is daunting and involves commutes on gravel roads and unimproved launch sites. There are a few lodges in this region but not many independent guide services and DIY fishing can be quite challenging and very limited due to the topography and logistics involved.
For anglers that love float fishing for big trout with a spectacular backdrop, this region should be high on the list. There are a few different avenues through which travelling anglers can access this region. Most guests staying at one of the few lodges in the area will take a commercial flight to Puerto Montt and then charter to Chaiten. It is also possible to fly into Esquel on the Argentine side and cross the border into Argentina, although it is best to have a lodge partner meeting you as taking rental cars across the border can be a challenge. Finally guests can fly into Coyhaique and drive north, but expect and all day drive on gravel roads.
Coyhaique Region
Coyhaique is one of Chilean Patagonia’s primary entry points for travellers. Coyhaique is located in the broad Simpson river valley and is the gateway. Guests fly into the nearby small town of Balmaceda.
Fishing in the Coyhaique region offers anglers some of Chile’s most diverse angling options. Within a 2 hour drive in any direction a variety of climate zones can be encountered that range from lush temperate rainforest to arid pampas near the Argentine border. Several of the rivers in the region are floatable including the Simpson, Paloma, Manijueles, and Blanco. The broad Simpson valley and Nireguao valley to the north are reminiscent of some of Montana’s broad valleys such as the Bighole and Gallatin Valleys: broad valleys with meandering streams and spring creeks flanked by mountain ranges.
As you head into the mountains the landscape quickly changes and rivers such as the Paloma and Magote are reminiscent of fisheries in New Zealand’s South Island. As you head west toward the Pacific, you enter the temperate rainforest with ample rainfall and large rivers such as the remote Blanco, lower Manijueles and Aysen. The Coyhaique region offers several all-inclusive fishing lodge programs as well as a network of independent fishing guides to support the travelling angler. This is also an area that offers some DIY opportunities for the adventurous angler.
Cerro Castillo and the Baker River 2 hours south of Coyhaique is the beautiful Cerro Castillo valley. Although the stream and river fishing in this area is limited due to the heavy influence of glacial runoff, there are numerous smaller but extremely productive lakes and “lagunas”. Most of these lakes are on large private estancias so teaming up with a local lodge or guide that has connections is critical. There are some truly massive fish in some of these productive waters.
Another 2 hours of driving to the south brings travellers to the Baker river system. The Baker is the largest river in Chilean Patagonia and drains the massive General Carrera Lake. The river flows strong in mid summer as glacial melt peeks but the huge lake upriver filters out most sediments so it is clear even at higher flows. The hint of glacial flower in the water produces a unique electric blue color.
The Baker is a massive river and a boat is must when fishing it although some good wade fishing can be had around gravel bars and riffles (accessed by boat). Rainbow trout are the dominant fish but there are also some enormous browns that are as long as your leg that you might just encounter if you commit to chucking articulated streamers on a 300 grain sinking line.
The Cochrane River is another favorite in the region. It is also an “outlet river” and flows gin clear. The Cochrane is fished on foot and resembles a giant spring creek. Huge fish can be found in the river but it is also highly technical. Even the best of anglers can be humbled by this fishery, but perseverance can pay off and result in some very large fish caught while sight-casting.
Chile will always bring me back
Chilean Patagonia is a special place with special people. There are many wonderful attributes that anglers will find in this great landscape. The greatness of this region for the travelling angler is found in the sum of its many parts; few places can offer the sublime beauty, lack of crowds and hauntingly beautiful rivers that Chile presents. For more information visit www.montanaangler.com
