Lesotho: A Retrospective Look at 10 Years of Community, Conservation, and Fly Fishing

A Decade at Makhangoa:

A Retrospective Look at 10 Years of Community, Conservation, and Fly Fishing

Flyfishing, for any species is constantly evolving. Techniques practiced, tactics implemented, flies, and tackle used are dynamic; always oscillating between tried and tested, and new and experimental. Looking back on 10 years at Makhangoa it is plain to see how flies, methods, and our strategies when targeting a certain piece of water change from year to year. However, another universal truth when looking at fly fishing tactics and techniques is that quality lasts. And, for the sentimental anglers amongst us, just like an old dog sitting next to you at the fireplace, this truth is reassuring.

By KEITH CLOVER // Photos by AFRICAN WATERS and TIM LEPPAN

Looking back on our photos from our initial exploratory trips to Makhangoa almost a decade ago, our fresh faces and self-dyed fishing shirts (dark olive or you were not allowed on the river according to our mentor and great friend, Ed Truter) are symbolic of the blind optimism and unfaltering intent needed to get a project like this up and running. Ten years, a tented camp, then a lodge, a family cottage, hundreds of fly fishermen and -women from across the globe, thousands of fish, close to R1,4 million in community levies raised, over 50 individual jobs created, multiple skills development programs, and a host of life-changing community beneficiation programs later, and it is plain to see how fly fishing has irrevocably benefited the lives of the Makhangoa Community, played a massive role in conservation of this system, and created memories to last a lifetime for all guests who make the pilgrimage to this incredible valley.

So, what has changed, and what has not?

When the Makhangoa Community Camp welcomed its first guests to camp in the summer of 2012/13, the tackle advice was straightforward –9ft 4-weight rods, floating lines, and a handful of stock standard generic flies did the trick. On the dry fly front, DDD’s, Kaufmanns stimulators, Dave’s hopper’s, Elk Hair Caddis and Klinkhammers did the trick. These were combined with a selection of heavier GRHE nymphs in 12 and 14, and smaller generic mayflies in 14 to 18 fished under an indicator for when the fish were not looking up. Today, all of those patterns will work, but CDC has come into all the popular patters. Hoppers have moved towards simplerto-tie-versions, and stalwarts such the Balbyter Ant, CDC Klinkhammer and Shuttlecock are here to stay.

Personally, I think the advances in tying techniques and materials are more significant than the actual fly pattern changes. On the nymphing side, GUN’s, and similar jig style patters are the go-to. And those that incorporate CDC definitely get the first call up. Static nymphing and euro nymphing seem to be more popular amongst guests than fishing NZ style under and indicator. Dry and dropper fishing is however as popular now, as it was 10 years ago. While fishing dry flies to sighted fish remains the pinnacle of the Makhangoa experience.

The tackle used

We have seen fiberglass and spilt cane rods making a more regular appearance at the tackle set up. On the other end of the spectrum, highly spec’ed 10ft nymphing, and specialized dry fly rods are also now part of many anglers´ quiver. The application of these rods is highly specific, and acutely aimed to certain conditions and fishing styles. In these specific conditions, they are hyper applicable, but limited in the broader conditions. So, although the standard 9ft 4-weight will do all an angler needs to fish the Bokong efficiently, the addition of specific dry fly rods and nymphing rods is definitely a sign that anglers are looking to broaden their skill set and keep learning new things.

It also shows the power of marketing to a demographic that, overall, often can’t stop themselves from adding to their inexhaustible affinity for gear.

Presentation is key

Though there have been a lot of subtle changes over the years in tackle and techniques, the fundamentals in stream fishing remain the same and will trump any advances in tackle and tactics.

Fishing slowly and being stealthy, keeping out of sight, avoiding leader flash, understanding drag, and knowing that the presentation of a fly in a river environment such as we find at Makhangoa remains paramount to success. Watching experienced fly anglers fish with the grace and confidence that comes from decades spent on a river, and the seemingly effortless regularity that they have a bend in their rod, is testament to this.

The yellowfish experience

When the Makhangoa Community Camp first opened her doors (or tent flaps back in 2013), it was the yellowfish experience that had guests eager to get up into the Maloti mountains. Sight fishing to yellowfish in a river that runs clean and pure for most of the summer is an anomaly when it comes to yellow fishing. Add in the dry fly aspect and the fishery ticks a number of boxes. This was the initial impetus for setting up the community camp.

We were aware of the wild rainbows in the system which were caught between the yellows, but they were not a major focus of ours, or our guests. With 10 years behind us, and some exceptional year round fishery work done by AW stalwarts such as Stu Harley, Ed Truter, Johann Dupree and recently, Greg Maxwell, Tim Leppan, and Phil Geldart, and the Makhangoa Community Camp offers anglers the opportunity to fish to both incredible browns and rainbow trout.

The Makhangoa Community Camp offers anglers the opportunity to fish to both incredible browns and rainbow trout

The brown trout fishery is focused on the far upper beats of the river. Anglers access these beats through the Makhangoa Community Camp trekking operations. These operations include the cooperation of two smaller satellite villages linked to Makhangoa, and a team of dedicated muleteers.

Trekking to the upper beats where angler’s fish beats with names such as Angels Falls, Deadman’s drift, Gollum’s Neck and Song’s folly, while sleeping out under the stars, is a life changing experience.

The Estuary

Behind Makhangoa we have the vitally important Bokong and Katse confluence. The section we call The Estuary. It is in this area, and the lower beats of the river, that we have been fortunate to decipher the movements and feeding habits of some really quality rainbow trout each year.

The cooler months of autumn bring prime time, as big aggressive rainbow trout congregate in this region to feed on yellowfish fry that leave the river as temperatures drop. Some of the fish then making their way up to the lower beats of the river to spawn.

This area is crucial to the wellbeing of the system as it is the zone that each spring/summer and autumn yellowfish and trout gather in high concentrations as they prepare for their respective spawning windows.

This area is crucial to the wellbeing of the system as it is the zone that each spring/summer and autumn yellowfish and trout gather in high concentrations as they prepare for their respective spawning windows.

“he Makhangoa Community Camp offers anglers the opportunity to fish to both incredible browns and rainbow trout

Pre 2013, this area was the focus of much illegal fishing activity. It now falls within the Makhangoa Community Fishery Management area, and the protection this affords the fish in these vulnerable time highlights the significant ecological benefits fly fishing is bringing to the area.

The lodging

On a purely physical front, guests, guides and community members have been witness to, and part of, the wonderful organic growth of the camp and facilities at the MCC. Each year, since inception, together with the MCC tourism council, we have made it a priority to subtly upgrade the camp and facilities, while maintaining the unique culture and atmosphere the camp is renowned for.

Some changes have been forced, as in the fire that destroyed the main living area and kitchen building in April 2019 which necessitated a rebuild, however most have occurred gradually. Almost always driven by suggestions and comments from regular guests and guides who feel a strong sentimental connection with the camp and the people. Guided by these parameters, the charm, culture and ethos of the camp have not only remained constant, but the camp has also solidified into an institution over the decade.

It is however off the water that the most significant and noticeable changes have taken place at the MCC.

These being the social, economic, and environmental benefits to the area, all a direct result of visiting fly fishermen and women. I would like to briefly document a few of these success stories. The purpose of which is to illustrate what a significant positive effect responsible fly fishing can have on socioeconomic development and conservation in area such as this. It is also an indirect ‘tip of the cap’, to all guests who have visited the MCC over the past 10 years, without whom, these projects would not be possible.

The MCC employs over 50 individuals from the local community – a combination of full-time staff and part time staff. Hand in hand with this is skills development in the local community. The MCC has trained camp managers, river rangers, housekeeping staff, maintenance teams, and builders. All of these factors ensure long term financial security to a significant portion of the Makhangoa Community. Not to mention the intrinsic personal and emotional benefits that skills development and productive employment offer.

The community

We have healthy community coffer, which derives funds from nightly levies from all guests. These community levies are tightly controlled by the Makhangoa tourism council and can only be spent on projects that benefit the community. There is no room for nepotism and pocket lining. The structure and implementation of this system has fast become a blueprint for others looking to engage in community tourism ventures, and is one we openly share in the hope to see similar projects thrive.

We have implemented a number of incredible projects which are funded independently from the community levies. Some of these are:

• Wonderbag sustainable cooking roll out –being above the tree line, with no access to electricity, cooking in rural Lesotho is reliant on gas or brining wood and coal, most of it taking place indoors, in unventilated rooms, coming with it safety and health risks. The Wonderbag distribution and training program has gone a long way to reduce the amount of fuels that need to be burnt, and indirectly have counted further benefits. To read more about these, go check out the Wonderbag page - https:// www.wonderbagworld.com/outcomes

• The Makhangoa Primary School Foot Bridge. A steel and concrete bridge spanning the Bokong River which allows community members, and more importantly primary school children, the ability to cross the river between schools and homesteads. Sadly, this bridge was destroyed in the Dec 2020 floods, and we are in the process of raising finance to rebuild it.

• School Stationary drives – every year the MCC sponsors stationary drives to three schools in the vicinity. Schools that due to their remote location sadly get little help from local government structures and funds.

• Solar Power Roll Out – in March 2021 with the help of IndiFly, we supplied and installed 65 solar units to the Makhangoa Village and School. These systems provide lights, radio and charging points to every homestead in the Makhangoa Village - ttps://africanwaters.net/ indifly-funds-makhangoa-solar-project-indigenous-community-in-africa-gets-electricity-for-the-first-time/

• Water delivery to the MCC village

• River Rangers Project ensuring best practices as well reporting and stopping any illegal fishing activity

• Fishery Managing Plans which are gazetted and now proudly supported by local authorities and policed by the Makhangoa River Rangers team

• Catchment wide environmental monitoring and reporting

If you are reading this, there is no doubt that fly fishing plays a part in your life. It could be the odd fleeting interaction, or an all-consuming passion. Whichever side of the spectrum you fall on, I am sure that it has, and will continue to bring immeasurable pleasure and benefits to you. What motivates you to fly fish, how you go about it, and your relationship with fly fishing may change, but, if you feel the same as I do, the fundamentals of what drew you to fly fishing, and what keep you inextricably connected, will never lose their luster. Be this time spent in pristine natural environments, quality time spent in solitude, or amongst friends and family, your affinity for beautiful tackle, or whatever your ‘why’ is. The same holds true for all who have fished, visited, supported, or worked at the MCC over the past decade.

The river, the camp, the fish and how we fish to them are fluid and changing. The connections we make with the place and the people, and the tangible benefits fly fishing has brought to Makhangoa remain constant. Much like the established truths of sound river craft, these constants motivate all we do and will ensure that next decade at the MCC we see further gains in the areas that matter most.