The Laguna Verde: Jurassic Monster Trout – Part 2

Nine years ago names like Monster Bay, Sea Bay or El Puesto meant nothing to us fly fishers but in a few short years they have become iconic, hallowed pieces of water that we talk of with lust in our eyes and dream of fishing when conditions are right. They have very quickly established themselves amongst the great, revered fly-fishing destinations and deservedly so. They are named bays and features on the Estancia Laguna Verde Lodge water of Lago Strobel (aka Jurassic Lake) in southern Argentina, five hours from the town of El Calafate. So what is the story behind these celebrated pieces of water?

By TARQUIN MILLINGTON-DRAKE

Continued from the previous issue…

Let me try and bring some normal perspective about what one might expect from a stay at Estancia Laguna Verde. First, the length of stay… there has been much talk of only doing two or three days because you catch so many fish it gets dull after that. If you stand in the mouth of the Barrancoso River and hammer away at a certain time of year that might be the case but you don’t and I recommend that you don’t. It is dull and not really fishing. The guides tell me that a really top day for a good fisherman (casting skills and presentation as well as handling takes and strong fish) could be 30 fish in day.

Potrero Lagoon has fish up to 10lbs and so its goes on.

We know the worst, we lived it but the average on the lake under normal or decent conditions might be 6 to 12 fish in a day, which might weigh from 2lbs to 22lbs or more. In my view, I would recommend a week ($5,200) to really get to know and enjoy all that the place and the fishing offers. It allows for the odd overly windy day as well as time for the lagoons, which are special in their own right and I will come to later. At the very least do the 4.5 (half day arrival, then four full days) programme at $3,850. Mornings tend to be slower than the afternoons because the fish prefer it when it has warmed up (the mornings on the lake were painfully slow for us) but that is a great time to go to the lagoons, which are frankly, equally astonishing.

Eight Lagoon for example, has wild rainbows in astonishing numbers from 4 to 6lbs. Laguna Verde itself has rainbows, browns and brook trout in the 2 to 6lbs range.

Potrero Lagoon has fish up to 10lbs and so its goes on. These lagoons should be revered in their own right and when fishing is tough under the worst of conditions, the lagoons just keep on producing superb fishing. We know, we witnessed it. I come back to length of stay because you want to experience these places and try and catch browns, rainbows and the brookies and get to know at least two or three of the lagoons during your stay.

Keep in mind that there are 16 (Monster Bay, Point Ollivier, Farmers, Camelot, Finger Bay, Moro Bays, Tasmania, Sea Bay, El Puesto, El Puesto Cliffs, Blue Lagoon, Dry Fly Bay, Dry Fly Bay Cliffs, as well as the Island, Aquarium and Island Bay) named places to fish on Lago Strobel so that in itself is a location a day or two a day but you can move around more if you wish. Then, to mix things up more, there is the Barrancoso river where the resident population of rainbows can be tackled with small dries and nymphs along the 8 km (approx.) length of river at the Estancia water but also the big rainbows that have ascended the river to spawn.

The best time for the river is early or late in the season, which runs from 1st November to 30th April. November and December are good because the river has lots of water and there is a big run and then April can be good again once the autumn rains have come and there is another run of fish.

The fish can be tempted on dries, nymphs or streamers. Early season, there is also the little Moro Creek that can be fished but then it dries up as the season progresses. So, in summary, you can see that there is a lot of fishing to be enjoyed and if one does not want to be torn between trophy hunting on the lake and everything else to experience, then a week is the better option or at the very least four days.

We left with some sadness, of course the fishing was spoiled by the weather but everyone gets that but during our stay we had grown very fond of the place, intrigued by the fish and the fishing and had really enjoyed Luciano and his team. What Luciano and Roberto have created in one of the harshest of environments is amazing. They have, and continue to do so, carved out mile upon mile of track to provide access to all the lagoons and many bays. The small lodge is hunkered down inside the basin of the Laguna Verde attempting to get out of the wind. The cars take a beating on the rough tracks but somehow they keep them going with their mechanic team, and the guides and house staff were still smiling as month five of the season was drawing to a close. The food was excellent too despite the lodge being so remote.

The fish are quite simply spectacular and I left with far more questions than I arrived with. Should we be fishing as the fish go up the Barrancoso? Should we be fishing for them in the river?

Do the big fish actually spawn successfully or do they go through the process but produce no young? Is it actually the resident fish that produce the young, which go to the lake? Is that why there are not so many fish in the lake that the size is beginning to reduce like Lake Cardiel (which once had huge rainbows too but there is not enough food to sustain so many big fish)?

If the fish are getting bigger, why and where is the threshold when there is not enough food to sustain such extraordinary fish? If there are less – why? Should the old fish caught be killed? Should some other fish be killed? How do the fish in the lagoons reproduce? How are they staying the same size and in such numbers?

We simply do not know the answers to these questions because this phenomenal fishery is so new. What is certain is that the rainbows must be amongst the finest rainbow trout in the world today and now need very good stewardship. Luciano and Roberto plan to find out the answers to these questions so that they can better look after what has evolved there.

This was a great adventure in every respect and combined with staying at Eolo (or other hotels in the area), seeing the glacier and everything else there is to do around Calafate (which I really liked), there is an entire experience just out of Calafate. Equally, it can be combined with northern Patagonia trout fishing, dove shooting in Cordoba, dorado fishing further north, sea trout further south or any other tourism in Chile and Argentina. There is just so much to do and enjoy.

Further Information//

Restaurants in Calafate

A Calafate favourite is Patagonian lamb, which you can find at La Tablita, which is perhaps the most famous restaurant in El Calafate. Another well-renowned parrilla, is Don Pichon, also famous for its excellent barbequed lamb.

A Typical Day

You are allocated a guide for the duration of your stay, which allows all your stuff to stay in the same car for the duration. If you are struggling with your guide tell Luciano or Roberto and they will make a switch. I doubt this will be an issue, as they are all good but some have better English than others. Breakfast is at 0830. You depart with your guide at 0930. There is no set rotation, the guides just work out a plan based on what their guests priorities are. Lunch is usually at about 1330 to 1400 at one of the two lunch huts and is a relaxed social affair. You tend to fish different locations after lunch and this is decided at lunch. You head home at about 1900 but earlier in the season this might be a bit later. Dinner is around 2030 and bed can be anytime from after dinner onwards depending on whether you have been persuaded to try some port or not! The lodge will do laundry twice a week for you.

Tackle, equipment and clothing

You always have a vehicle fairly near so you can leave lots of gear in the car if you wish. The guides are right, I took a 7 and 5-weight but the right choice is an 8 and 6-weight rod. Lines should be weight forward but with a decent taper for presentation. Bring a sink-tip for the 8-weight for certain in case of cold weather.

Reels should have plenty of backing and I would bring a spare 8-weight line and spare spool of backing. I nearly lost a line and some backing to a fish going under the rocks, which they are good at.

Leaders should be tapered to work at their best in the wind with the terminal section varying from 15lbs when the wind is blowing to perhaps 10 or 11lbs in more still conditions.

Flies

You need a very broad selection of flies (or you can tell the lodge you will use theirs and the guides will prepare a selection for you to buy/use there).

Flies should range from heavy streamers with tungsten heads in Woolly bugger patterns, Zonkers, Matukas and other streamer patterns (including rubber legs) in black, olive and brown but bring some white, orange and chartreuse which work well too.

Make sure you have some rabbit patterns. Sizes need to run from the biggest all the way through to tiny one inch or less than one-inch woolly buggers with perhaps a gold bead head. A full assortment of nymphs from largish stone flies all the way down to size 14 pheasant tails, hare’s ears and Prince nymphs, buzzers etc. Bring heavy and light. Scuds of all sizes, weights and colours.

Your dry-fly selection will likely be the most limited but should start with mouse patterns and bombers and wakers in big and medium size, attractor flies work well, such us Chernobyl Ant, Fat Albert, Tarantula, Parachute Madam X, Gypsy King, Stimulator (yellow and green), and Stimulator Rubber legs (sizes 6/8/10/12) all the way down to the small stuff. You are not matching the hatch so you can bring the mainstream patterns and you do not need tons of them.

It is very important that flies are tied in strong heavy wire, to avoid bending or breaking of hooks when playing or landing big fish. Indicator material could be useful!

Clothes and Accessories

Waders should be full chest waders with Aquastealth or Vibram soles. They will disinfect them at the lodge. You do not wade massively deep but you do get hit by splashing waves. There is a good wader room at the lodge with numbered pegs. You never walk very far except if you did the full river walk.

Wading jacket is a must for warmth and spray.

Layers of clothing to put on or take off as the ever-changing weather evolves.

Polaroid glasses are a must – the water is very clear and the wind makes casting more dangerous to eyes.

Nippers, hemostats, floatant, a day pack, a buff, fly boxes that hold your flies well in wind, gloves, some people like to use a vest or a wading stick (there are two at the lodge) and a stripping basket.

Sunscreen is vital – the sun is very powerful there even if it is cloudy.