NONOUTI - AN UNTOUCHED WILDERNESS

NONOUTI AN UNTOUCHED WILDERNESS

Words & photos by Deborah Platz

In 2008 a man called Danial who worked for the Australian Government walks into Tie ‘n’ Fly Outfitters - Australia’s only Salt-Water fly-fishing Outfitters on The Sunshine Coast - Danial doesn’t salt water fly fish and actually doesn’t even fish. However, he has been given Gavin’s name and told of his reputation as an internationally renowned saltwater fishing guide and flyfishing tutor and sets about to tell Gavin about this beautiful remote atoll in Kiribati called Nonouti. It is hoped Nonouti has the potential to be a Flyfishing destination with Gavin’s help. Gavin politely takes the information down, as suggested by Danial, but not for several months does he have the time to look at Nonouti on Google earth. At this point he is stunned by the potential and is eager to go. He tells everyone who will and won’t listen and shows the photographs on Google Earth. Now anyone who knows Gavin, knows how excitable he can be, especially when it comes to fishing in a new destination. He loves nothing more than research in the name of fishing; ploughing through data, maps, photographs, any reading material he can find or talking! He found Danial’s number hidden in the deep recesses of his old diary and called him…” how do I get there” … and so the adventure began.

Gavin was given the contact details of Ereata Benson an I-Kiribati member of staff in the Kiribati National Tourism Office (KNTO) who’s role it is to lead on behalf of the Kiribati Government on the soon to be called ‘Nonouti Project’. So, from 2009 to 2012 Gavin hosted 8 successful exploratory trips to Nonouti, with the support of Ereata, to assess the potential of the island as a Game-fishery, training local people to be guides, boatman and fishing assistants. The United Nations supported the project by funding domestic training to islanders. Gavin suggested Moana Kofte from Kiritimati (CXI) became involved in the training of the guides, Gavin interviewed Moana in a video to be shown to the Nonouti Guides, which you can see on YouTube on Tie ‘n’ Fly Outfitters channel, however it’s all in I-Kiribati language! Moana later visited Nonouti and conducted a week of training.

The Kiribati islands are typically run by Island Councils and/or Unimane (elders), so it was not only important to have them on side but the local people too. They were concerned the project would mean removal of their nets from the lagoons and in turn their families would not have enough food to eat. However, after a significant number of open meetings with Gavin people started to want to be involved. The Nonouti Island Council were in full support of the project, particularly when they recognised how much income and employment the project was bringing into the community. On one trip the Kiribati Minister of Tourism (GT fisherman/ addict) came along, to support the project. However, there was no financial support from the Kiribati Government, the exploratory missions were funded entirely by Tie ‘N’ Fly Outfitters clients paying for trips, which contributed circa $100,000 to the Island over the years. These paying anglers also brought in medical

supplies, tooth brushes, medical and agricultural expertise etc. Gavin has some great stories about the early days on Nonouti, with local fisherman challenging him to fishing competitions, him with his fly rod they with their hand lines. Long marches across vast flats which lasted days and days on the basis he suggested they should look in a particular place for Bonefish and the I-Kiribati person wanting nothing more than to please him by looking. When asked differently, the I-Kiribati fisherman said there are no Bonefish here, but we can look! Gavin soon learnt to ask very differently and soon they were able to find good amounts of Bonefish of a good size and throughout the exploratory missions, map the movement of Bonefish across the lagoon at different moon phases and tide times.

The Nonouti Island Council invited Tie ‘n’ Fly Outfitters to draw up an exclusive MOU with them, giving Tie ‘n’ Fly Outfitters exclusive access to a recreational angling package on Nonouti. Along with this he was invited to conduct a refresher training course for the guides.

So where are we now, the security of the Kiribati Island resources is being challenged due to population growth and the advancement of climate change. To address these challenges, the Nonouti project will help the foundation of food security needs on this beautiful remote atoll.

Tie ‘n’ Fly Outfitters have helped the Nonouti Island Council set up a Fishing and Cultural Package, which can only be purchased through Tie ‘n’ Fly Outfitters directly or through one of Tie ‘n’ Fly Outfitters International partners.

The I-Kiribati people have maintained their rich cultural heritage; fabulous dance dancing groups, handicrafts and historical offering sites. It seems all I-Kiribati people have beautiful singing voices too. On Nonouti travelling back from one of the offering sites; ‘Where the Tides Meet’ and the ‘Ancient Mariner’ you will be greeted by the Elder in the Oldest Maneaba on the island.

Local people have been trained in hospitality and food handling as part of the Nonouti Project, with local villagers employed to cook their family traditional dishes for the anglers. During our trip we will have a traditional feast evening which will include a spectacular I– Kiribati dance group and singing. Anglers will have the opportunity to purchase some of the islands arts and craft including the Nonouti Fighting swords and Fisherman’s hats.

Anglers can choose to stay in a traditional Kiakia instead of the Island Council lodge. Your own Kiakia is a traditional sleeping hut, with the added benefit of a bed and Australian electricity points.

Nonouti has a pristine reef with extensive flats and extensive marine ecosystems. The trip aims to give anglers a unique catch and release eco-tourism adventure in a marine environment which in our view will become the latest hottest thing in fly destinations in the future.

As Nonouti is at the very outset of its potential as a fly fishery eco-tourism journey we can’t therefore guarantee fabulous fishing however take a good look on Google Earth and you may be as excited at the potential as Gavin was when he first looked.

Nonouti has brought us some amazing days of fishing; 5 different species in five casts, Bonefish willing to take large clousers, Bonefish and Trigger Fish have straightened our hooks and Bluefin Trevally the size of a Trophy GT...

However, this is a challenging fishery and not for the angler who wants the guarantee of easy frequent catches.

If you would like to participate in this amazing adventure, just drop us an email or give us a call.