FOOD: SHUCKING IN THE PANDEMIC

Shucking Pandemic IN THE

Eugene’s Gulf Coast Cuisine Cajun-style Gulf Coast Goodness is Back

Steak modern luxury

By Marene Gustin

When the old Chelsea Market was sold and torn last year, for yet another high-rise apartment building, the popular Danton’s Gulf Coast Seafood had to find a new home. And what a wonderful new home they found in the old Mockingbird Bistro spot in River Oaks.

Owner Kyle Teas’s wife, an interior decorator, completely redid the interior, and with a new name—after his father—and updated menu, Eugene’s Gulf Coast Cuisine was born.

“We opened in late October,” Teas recalls, “and things were going really well. Business was better than I expected and then March 12 happened.”

That was when the city and county decided to lock down businesses to try to slow the pandemic. Amid the novel coronavirus and COVID-19 spreading rapidly, getting fresh shucked oysters did not seem as important as it once had.

“We reopened in June for takeout,” Teas says. Now, the restaurant is back, with indoor dining at 75 percent. “It was hard but I got PPP funding,” he says referring to the Paycheck Protection Program from the Small Business Administration. By the time he reopened he was able to bring a lot of his staff back, although he says some had health fears and didn’t want to come back to work.

“I’ve had some new hires,” Teas says, “and I’d like to have more. But, I’m very proud of the team we have right now.” He’s also very proud of his supportive customer base, many from his long years at Danton’s.

Teas is a native Houstonian, who grew up eating Gulf Coast seafood. Of course, Eugene’s has a little something for everyone on the menu. Inspired soups and salads for small appetites, and a 14-ounce certified Angus ribeye fire-

grilled over oak and hickory, for hardy eaters. Chicken lovers can nosh on a pecan-crusted chicken breast with white wine, lemon and caper sauce. And, there’s even some pasta dishes. But, let’s face it; the reason to come here is for the daily fresh seafood.

From the delicious broiled redfish stuffed with blue crab claw stuffing to the blackened catfish enchiladas, the seafood is always fresh and always inspired. Even if it’s not Saturday brunch, you’ll want to try the gulf shrimp wrapped in bacon over cheese grits with a side of boudin balls, the Cajun sausage balls that are so popular.

But, let’s not forget the oysters. Fresh, big, sweet oysters from the Gulf Coast, not those dainty little briny ones from New England. And, Eugene’s likely has one of the largest oyster menus around. For the purist, get the oysters on the half shell. Fresh, cold, raw oysters with a spicy house made horseradish dollop on top. A dozen make the perfect meal, low in fat but high in the good omega 3 fatty acids and zinc. If you’re not into raw, try the Oysters Kyle, sautéed in lemon garlic butter with green onions, herbs and spices. Served with parmesan bread for sopping up that sauce. Or Oysters Montrose, six fresh shucked oysters laced with garlic butter and topped with jumbo lump crab, breadcrumbs, parmesan cheese and spice, baked to perfection. And, what could be better this holiday season than the classic Oysters Rockefeller, the king of oyster dishes dating back to 1899 and created at Antoine’s in New Orleans. Here, the dish consists or six fresh shucked oysters topped with spinach, shallots, Pernot, lemon, garlic, breadcrumbs and Monterey Jack cheeses, perfectly baked.

Oh, and then there’s a baked version topped with house made tasso, a hunk of shoulder pork heavily seasoned with Cajun spices and smoked until crispy and delicious. And, it creates a party in your mouth with the juicy oysters. If you’re a fan of Texas’s own Tito’s vodka you’ll want to try the Buffalo Bayou, an oyster shooter layered with cocktail sauce, Worcestershire, Tabasco, horseradish, and fresh squeezed lemon juice topped with ice cold Tito’s vodka.

Teas’s favorites? “I guess our daily fresh fish and oysters,” he says. And, that’s probably why he’s so optimistic about surviving in a pandemic, because his customers love that Gulf Coast seafood, too.

Eugene’s Gulf Coast

Seafood

1985 Welch Street

Stuffed Redfish Jumbo lump topping