In Trieste by intrieste

ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE

IN TRIESTE

CULTURE OPINIONS HISTORY GOINGS ON

In Trieste, September, 2020 Founding Editor Maria Kochetkova Web Manager Francesco Stumpo Writers Nick Day Charlotte Phillips Victor Caneva Kira Stellato Theresa Conti MacTrieste Alessandra Ressa Helena Zonta Micol Brusaferro Illustrator Gio Alberti Photography credits Nick Day Victor Caneva Graphics Alice Ferrari alice@orepiccole.me

Contents

Editor’s note ........................................................................................................ 5 Meet the team .................................................................................................... 7 Coffee Walking Tour of Trieste by Nick Day ............................................... 10 Late Afternoon in Barcola by Giò Alberti

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Vineyards, Valleys, and Vistas: Exploring the Upper Districts of Roiano by Victor Caneva Ciaccole in Grado by Giò Alberti

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Agriturismo Milic: Profound Love for Land, Family and 22 Tradition by Helena Zonta ................................................................................ Trieste City of Science 2020 by Charlotte Phillips From Barcola to Contovello: A Walk To Remember by Alessandra Ressa Can You Handle Change? by Kira Stellato

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Six Practices: A Pathway to Making Good Decisions by Theresa Conti .................................................................... 36 Veni, Vidi, Verdi! Trieste’s Opera House by Nick Day ............................. 40 Michael Jordan’s Trieste Game Sneakers Sold at Auction for Record $615,000 by Alessandra Ressa ................................................... 43 Demystifying WWII Symbols by Victor Caneva........................................... 44 Why and How Do We Choose Trieste? by MacTrieste

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Doppio Malto: a New Beer House in Trieste by Micol Brusaferro ......................................................................... 49 Trieste Hosts Euroscience Open Forum by Charlotte Phillips ........................................................................................... 51 What to Do in Trieste this September 2020

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Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s note: Welcome to the first edition of In Trieste Dear reader, We are excited that you can finally hold this magazine in your hands. We hope you enjoy it as much as we enjoyed working on it. In Trieste is a monthly magazine in English for expatriates in Trieste. The magazine covers Triesteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s news stories that may be of interest to English and Italian speaking residents, as well as tourists. We founded In Trieste in March, 2020, as we felt there was the need of an aggregation magazine for the English-speaking community. Trieste is our hometown yet most of us come from other parts of the world. The identity of this magazine is as multicultural as the identity of its writers: itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pure magic! What are you waiting for? Go on - read it, flip through it, love it! Maria Kochetkova Founding Editor

In Trieste TEAM

Today marks six months since we went live on March 1st, a few days before Italy and the world would change forever. But who are we? Who are the people working behind the scenes to make In Trieste insightful with a tad of humor? Today weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to give you a peek behind the scenes â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a little insight into who we are, what we do and where we come from. It will be quite a ride, so get yourself a beverage, make yourself comfortable and set a couple of minutes aside.

Nick Day writer Born and raised in rural England, Nick worked in the UK, Nigeria, & Iran, before moving to California. He is a fellow of RICS & RGS, state licensed surveyor, and has an MBA from UC Berkeley. He was chief route engineer and expert witness for PG&E, the USA’s largest utility. He set up project management (PM), zero-based budgeting, then ran PM at CalDOT. Nick chaired 2 ASCE committees that took him, plus work, to 24 states, and gave conference presentations. A photojournalist for 35 years, writing for several journals, he produced the pipeline route manual for ASCE. He’s visited 53 countries for work and pleasure. In 2016, he moved to Trieste from San Francisco, but stays in Lisbon for 1-2 months every year. For fun he drinks coffee, plays harmonica & clarinet, tennis & soccer. He gives pro bono financial planning advice and career counselling.

Jacqueline Stuart writer Jacqueline is a Chartered Surveyor, and a cross border worker. She lives in Trieste, and works in Ljubljana, Slovenia. A lover of the outdoors, Jacqueline enjoys hiking with her dog Bluebell, skiing, sailing, and SUP. The things that Jacqueline likes most about Trieste are the delicious food, the cafe culture, and the beauty of the city and Adriatic sea. She is passionate about the environment and volunteers from time to time on animal conservation programmes.

Alessandra Ressa writer

Francesco Stumpo IT one-man-show Francesco is the IT brains behind this website. He works in insurance but his real passion is innovative technology. He is a runner and a swimmer, and he never says no to a good Italian meal.

“Born to Italian-Scottish parents, an explosive combination, reason for my restlessness and love for good food. I moved from San Francisco, California to Trieste 20 years ago. I have a degree in Mass Communication from the University of California, Berkeley, and a Master’s degree in International Cooperation from the Scuola Superiore di Studi Universitari in Pisa. In San Francisco I worked for several years as a journalist and press officer before moving to Albania, Bosnia, Kosovo and other war stricken countries with the United Nations. I am a professional journalist and English teacher, I love the outdoors, exploring caves and unusual places, travelling, meeting people, the opera, singing, the scent of the sea and the whistle of the wind. No other city in the world other than Trieste can offer all this.” 7

Helena Zonta writer

Kira Stellato columnist

Helena is a writer, copywriter, consultant, and entrepreneur, with a wealth of experience in research, analysis and writing, communication, negotiation and mediation, international relations, project management, teaching and training, and business development. Among other projects, she worked for the United Nations, in Pristina and Belgrade, for several years. Following the birth of her two children, she went into private consulting. She divides her time between Belgrade and Trieste, and is at present writing two books about living in Trieste – one in English, and one in Serbian.

Dr. Kira Stellato is a licensed Social & Health Psychologist and a meditation teacher with a PhD in Neuroscience and Cognitive Sciences. She promotes mindful health & living through her blogs, her workshops, her books, and her zest for life! Kira has been working around the world, notably in the USA, UK, Switzerland and China. She provides international coaching to individuals, groups and entrepreneurs via telepsychology, and digital e-learning, notably in the fields of mindful change, healthy living and stress management in times of transition. She likes to inspire and promote creativity, lateral thinking and problem-solving through expressive methods such as journaling, narrative medicine, and Expressive Arts Therapy. www.kirastellato.com

Giò Alberti cartoonist

Micol Brusaferro writer

“I was born in Trieste, where I still live and work. I currently work both as an illustrator and as a social worker in a center for homeless people in the city. I had an artistic education, first graduating in sculpture at the Academy of Fine Arts in Bologna, later obtaining a master’s degree in editorial illustration at Mimaster in Milan. Drawing for me is a way to better understand the reality that surrounds me, and the more I draw, the happier I am!” www.gioalberti.com

“I’m a professional journalist and I work for various editorial offices. I handle communication for companies and associations, and write ironic books on some peculiarities of Trieste. A traveler for work and a globetrotter for passion, I love Trieste – my hometown.”

Maria Kochetkova Founding editor “I edit and, sometimes, write. I wanted to be a dancer, then an astronomer, now I teach English Communication at University and engage in social entrepreneurship. I love our In Trieste team because each and every one of our writers brings their uniqueness to this mag. Oh, and I am crazy about Trieste, my energetic 2 year old, my Ligurian husband and capo-in-bs in the sun.” A huge thank you to you, dear reader, for being so helpful, engaging and supportive. It means the world to us. Keep reading!

Victor Caneva writer “I was born in Florida, but spent most of my childhood in Spain and Japan. At 18, I hopped back over to the US where I attended college and later spent rewarding years performing analysis and writing about national security topics. Within the last two years, my wife and I completely shifted gears, decided to move our family to Italy, and now create content to help instill a love of cultural diversity in young children. A recent Italian-American dual citizen, I’m thrilled to be in the region my great-grandfather called home. I love learning about the unique cultural, culinary, and historical nuances that make Trieste the magical city it is!”

Theresa Conti columnist Theresa Conti was born and raised in New York. She is a Certified Life Coach, Energy Healing Practitioner, Workshop Facilitator and Author with more than 25 years’ experience. Her books include Alphabet Affirmations: Transform Your Life and Love Yourself, and I Am the Treasure. Theresa specializes in helping her clients manage their stress, and develop inner resources, like confidence, courage and resilience, so they can live with greater ease, realize their goals and dreams and better meet life’s challenges. She is also a qualified English teacher and editor and often brings her coaching skills into her teaching to facilitate her clients’ learning. She can be reached at Theresa@reconnecting2you.com.

Charlotte Phillips writer and cartoonist “I’m an ex-physicist and writer living in Trieste with my husband, son, puppy, and grumpy old cat. I moved here from London six years ago and instantly fell in love with it, with the possible exception of the Bora windstorms. I’m currently revising my first novel, while working as an editor of scientific journal papers. I draw the cartoons in the Humor & Cartoons section of In Trieste. Drawing cartoons started as a way of expressing myself with few words, helpful for me as between writing and editing, words are pretty much my world!” 9

• Around town •

Coffee Walking Tour of Trieste By Nick Day Photo credits Nick

Aimed at all you coffee aficionados out there -you know who you are!. I think you’ll find this interesting. Well, I certainly did. Lovers of Starbucks** coffee can turn away now as they would be laughed out of Trieste.

laces and offers a wonderful view of the beautiful sea panorama -- the Adriatic. Even today, it is the navigation route of modern Europe, and since the Belle Epoque, still considered the centre of central Europe.

On a very hot Sunday in July, we took a 3-hour guided walking tour (something we almost never do) around the centre of Trieste. The circuit followed the trail of coffee roasting, making, and drinking throughout its history, which, along with art and literature inspired the many coffee houses. Our guide was Daniça, from Serbia, who speaks fluent English and Italian, plus many more languages. Fortunately, there was only one other couple (Italians) so we had a much more intimate experience, able to ask many questions.

As we know from the Lloyds coffee houses in London, the beverage was very important to trade and business, plus the exchange of playful words and repartee among the drinkers. The tour reminded me of our time in Vienna, back in late 2006, when we visited the Cafés Sperl & Central to drink cappuccinos, eat wonderful pastries and küchen, and read the papers that were hung on old wooden rolls. The Café Sperl was Adolph Hitler’s favourite place to imbibe while plotting his rise to power. The Café Central was more for the literary set, but did include, as its customers, Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels; also, Stalin, Lenin and Trotsky who planned the odd revolution or two over a coffee. I wonder who picked up the bill?

Trieste is the centre of coffee in Europe, due to its strategic geographical position as a port, easily reachable from the Suez Canal, and the fact it was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire for so long. All coffee was routed through the city for roasting and onwards distribution. Believe me, the residents of Trieste take their coffee drinking seriously! As the central European capital, Trieste was the meeting place of artists and writers during the 18th & 19th centuries. The Piazza Unità d’Italia is the living room, which has always been considered the melting pot of art and culture. The elegant piazza is surrounded on three sides by stately pa10

It was as if time had stood still, both places imbued with the ambience of a bygone era. Inside both cafés, a sense of intrigue hung in the air. I got that same feeling again as we did our coffee equivalent of a pub crawl to three of the old caffès (note: café in French, caffè in Italian) in Trieste. As Italy didn’t enter WWI until 1915, and being so close to Yugoslavia, with the Austro-Hungarian influence, it became quite a hotbed of spies. No doubt involving a little coffee drinking rather

than dry martinis, shaken and not stirred! During WW I, Hungarian Francesco Illy arrived in Trieste. In 1933 he formed the now world famous Illy’s Coffee, still based in Trieste and run by the Illy family. There is even an Illy museum, and a store where you can buy special designer Illy coffee cups – from delicate china to Lalique style glass. Just like a wine tasting, we tried coffees at two of the four caffès, and learned a little about the beans and how to make a proper cup. At the other two, we simply looked around to enjoy the ambience and old decor. A museum inside the old Chamber of Commerce opened up especially for us on Sunday so that we could see some of the old coffee-making apparatus, measuring equipment and packaging, and how coffee futures were traded at the nearby Borsa (stock exchange). Apart from many famous Italian writers who frequented these coffee house (some still do), there were others from England, Ireland, France & America. Perhaps most well-known were James Joyce, the writer Italo Svevo, and poet Umberto Saba. They frequented three of the coffee houses we visited, and it was in a couple of these that James Joyce wrote The Dubliners. The Irish writer loved to spend his time at Caffè Pasticceria Polar Star and the Pirona pastry shop, at whose tables he tasted traditional sweets, such as Presnitz. These rituals inspired Joyce to write “Ulysses”, which he began in Trieste. A bronze statue was erected of him on a bridge over the Canal Grande. He also taught En11

• Around town •

“ nero capo capo in b ”

glish for a time at the nearby Berlitz school. The first coffee shops were opened in Trieste during the second half of the 18th century. They immediately took on an unmistakable Viennese connotation in their interior decorations and services they offered, a feature unique within Italy. But it was thanks to the cosmopolitan spirit of the city that the coffee tradition became so popular. The names of their coffees are also different from the rest of the world (see photo of chart). For anyone visiting the city I recommend the following short vocabulary: a simple espresso is called “nero”, an espresso with milk (macchiato) is called “capo”, while “capo in b” (b stands for bicchiere) is a “caffè macchiato” served in a glass. The coffee culture in Trieste is an ancient rite. It runs in the residents’ veins, and it’s estimated they drink twice the national average.

Today the historical caffès are still fascinating meeting places where you see elegant ladies sipping their coffee, famous writers and poets, university students writing their lecture notes, and tourists who are immediately bewitched by the slow and relaxed rhythm surrounding them. The famous Italian writer, Claudio Magris, a Trieste-born novelist and cultural philosopher, sometimes works from the Caffè San Marco in his booth table at the back. We actually sat at his table (the last stop on our tour), and I asked Daniça if there would be a problem if he came in right then. She assured me that he always calls ahead to let the owners know when he’s coming. He even has a few students occasionally join him because he lectures at Trieste University. The first caffè we visited was Torrefazione La Triestina, just round the corner from our apartment on via Cavana, and where I’ve been many times since

for a morning “capo in b.” The passionate-about-coffee Trieste-born barista spoke good English and had us try two different coffees. She told us there are two kinds of beans they use: Arabica and Robusta, the latter having twice as much caffeine. The first thing she does before opening up each day is to monitor the weather and humidity. This, she said, is very important for knowing when and how much to grind the beans, and how much coffee to use per cup. And, as we’ve heard before, NEVER EVER put your coffee beans (or ground coffee) in the fridge or freezer. They used to roast their own beans, as did other coffee houses, and she showed us their old machine in the back. But safety and environmental rules had come in, to do with danger of fire and smelling out the neighbourhood (so sad—whatever happened to wake up and smell the coffee?). Next, we visited the Caffè Tommaseo, the oldest, dating from 1830. It sits in Piazza Tommaseo where a plaque on the outer wall declares the caffè as “the centre of the national movement from which spreads the flame of enthusiasm for Italian liberty” placed there in 1848 during the period in which Trieste was part of the Habsburg Empire. Then it was on to the Caffè Stella Polare for a look-see, before ending at the Caffè San Marco to sample three different coffees; this was followed by the barista demonstrating how to make a great cappuccino from a beautiful copper urn. A couple of days later, I could be seen sitting outside the most elegant of all the coffee houses in Trieste, Caffè Degli Specchi, on the stunning Piazza Unità d’Italia, sipping a cappuccino and eating a delicious chocolate pastry. How much would this cost me, I thought, in Venice’s St Mark’s Square or London’s Ritz? Two times, three times? There it was a paltry € 5, with no cover charge, tip, or tax added. **Starbucks opened their first caffè in Italy, September 2018, and chose Milan, the business capital of the country. Presumably to cater to American & English tourists, and trendies, who maybe can’t tell the difference between a good cup of coffee and gut rot, but are happy to pay way over the top for the privilege. 13

A Late Afternoon in Barcola

by GiĂ˛ Alberti

• Community •

Vineyards, Valleys, and Vistas: Exploring the Upper Districts of Roiano By Victor Caneva Photo credits Victor Caneva

September in Trieste can be glorious. Crisp breeze and dazzling sunshine team up to coax even the busiest denizens out to enjoy the weather – perfect walking weather – not too hot and not too cold. The target for this excursion was a hillside area to the north of Scorcola and above Roiano I had spotted on my first hike. I had a suspicion that I might be able to sneak some stellar views of the Gulf of Trieste and, according to Google Maps, I could even scope out some osmize for later. Finally armed with my camera, I decided to trek up via di Romagna to photograph some of the flora I had so appreciated on my first walk. Having burned both some film and my thighs reaching the top of Scorcola, it was now time to venture into the unknown. I had visited “downtown” Roiano before, but I was excited to traipse through the more wild sections of the rione or neighborhood. Residences adorned with vibrant flowers dotted both sides of my route, but the atmosphere transformed when I reached Vicolo delle Rose. Suddenly, the houses disappeared and the road narrowed. As the lane descended sharply into a valley, it was enveloped by luxuriant foliage. The vegetation was much more dense than the forest making up Parco Farneto, the destination of last week’s hike. I had already been enjoying abundant bird calls throughout the morning, but I was surprised at just how much louder the songs became as I endeavored into the lush vale. I continued downhill and arrived at the bottom of the valley. No water was discernible on this sun-kissed day, but crumbling stone channels had been established many years ago to funnell the torrents that must 16

evident. I wove partly through the village of Pis’cianzi (Pišcanci) and the hamlet of Lajnarji. Both of these areas are classified as Zone Vitivinicole, or wine producing regions, and are the home of several wineries, osmize, and agriturismos. Bole Winery is one of the wine-centric enterprises in Pis’cianzi and has been operated by the same family for around 200 years. I’ve read that this winery is currently the only one in the region producing prosekar, a local sparkling wine made from a blend of Vitovska, Malvasia and Glera, for sale. I passed by the well rated Osmiza Ferluga, and later, Agriturismo Ferfoglia as I wound my way through this winey outpost. Unfortunately all the ozmize were closed. I’ve been waiting to visit an osmiza, a Carso institution where wine and local salumi and formaggi are consumed where they are produced, since I first learned about them in 2017. Somehow, I’ve still not managed to get to one. Perhaps it’s for the best. We’ve decided that once the world is back to normal, we will celebrate with our inaugural osmiza experience, raising thankful glasses of prosecco and toasting the seasons to come as we look out to the sea below. I’ll probably also eat too much prosciutto.

rush down these steep ravines during a summer deluge. At this point, I set out on the diminutive via dei Molini, which ducked under the forest and then began to climb up the other side of the gorge. This is where things really started feeling different. Ancient retaining walls crawling with leafy vines bordered the lane on my right and rustic farms rested gently on the slope to my left. The sparkling Adriatic began to peek out from behind the vegetation as I gained elevation. Soon, increasingly large vineyards and the odd olive grove bordered via dei Molini to the southwest and the Adriatic had ceased peeking and was now boldly shining in the midday sun. Granted, I had taken a fairly long walk, but it felt like I had taken a weekend trip to the countryside. Being able to walk to villages and vineyards within the limits of a city boasting over 200,000 residents is pretty cool, and quite a change. Back in the US, I used a car to get nearly everywhere. Now carless in Trieste, I don’t feel hemmed in by where my own two feet, or the bus, can take me. As via dei Molini curved westward, the winemaking heritage of this area became more and more 18

“ September in Trieste can be glorious

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Ciaccole in Grado

by GiĂ˛ Alberti

• Community •

Agriturismo � Milic: Profound Love for Land, Family and Tradition by Helena Zonta

The InTrieste team celebrated six months of writing and working together at the amazing Agriturismo Milic, in the Sagrado frazione of Sgonico, nestled among verdant vineyards and overlooking the spectacular Carso landscape. In the cool shade of an old tree we were served an exquisite lunch of Carso delicacies, all made in-house, with home-grown, completely natural, seasonal and autochthonous ingredients. We started with a mouthwatering selection of their famous all-natural salame, the spicy yet absolutely delicate lardo di mangaliza [a special kind of pig], very tender prosciutto crudo and ossocollo [preserved only in salt], with fresh-from-the-oven bread, and a generous amount of chilled Vitovska. This was followed by an assortment of primi piatti, each more tasty than the other – my favorite being gnocchetti con le erbe (picked fresh from the garden), with the gnocchi di zucca con scamorza affumicata coming in very close second. After a short break, the piece de resistance was brought out – an enormous, but profoundly tender stinco di mangaliza with patate in tecia – in a style well worthy of Obelix, followed by flavorful cevapcici con polenta, and several other mouthwatering meat dishes. While sipping sorbetto and sampling a yummy chocolate cake we visited the wine cellar, filled with the 22

The Milic family owned one of the most important quarries in the area, where they extracted the coveted Petrovica stone, called fior di mare in Italian [flower of the sea], and known also as Aurisina marble. This light grey marble is aesthetically lovely, and characterized by particular compactness and resistance. Its extraction in the Carso dates back to the 1st century B.C.. It was used prolifically throughout the centuries for important structures in the area, particularly in Aquileia and Tergeste, but also other cities, like Ravenna. It became famous worldwide with the rise of Trieste’s international trade, so that many of the most amazing architectural monuments in Vienna, Graz, Linz, Innsbruck, Salzburg, Prague and Milan have been constructed with this marble. Lucija proudly told us that stones from the family’s quarry were used for the construction of the obelisk in Opicina, the Tribunale in Trieste, and also for the Suez canal. patina of centuries-old family stories and traditions. While we took in the intoxicating scent of old wood barrels, wine and salame, our lovely hostess Lucija, dressed in the traditional dress of the Carso, talked about the Milicčfamily history, which dates back to 1492. The small village of Sagrado was chosen strategically – sheltered from the bora, underneath the sacred mount Lanaro/Volnik, with a view of the sea, high on the altopiano Carsico (360m above sea level). This astute choice influenced greatly the family’s development and success. The Milic family owned one of the most important quarries in the area, where they extracted the coveted Petrovica stone, called fior di mare in Italian [flower of the sea], and known also as Aurisina marble. This light grey marble is aesthetically lovely, and characterized by particular compactness and resistance. Its extraction in the Carso dates back to the 1st century B.C.. It was used prolifically throughout the centuries for important structures in the area, particularly in Aquileia and Tergeste, but also other cities, like Ravenna. It became famous worldwide with the rise of Trieste’s international trade, so that many of the most amazing architectural monuments in Vienna, Graz, Linz, Innsbruck, Salzburg, Prague and Milan have been constructed with this marble. Lucija proudly told us that stones from the family’s quarry were used for the construction of the obelisk in Opicina, the Tribunale in Trieste, and also for the Suez canal. 24

With the rise in demand for their stone the number of workers in the quarry increased. Since the family had to feed all the workers, that meant they had to produce enough food not only for themselves, but also for more than 300 employees. Thus, they continually expanded their agricultural land and production, operated a special osteria for their employees, and had at least two water wells – considered great wealth at the time. Lucia led us on a tour of the family home and the agriturismo, which retains its original characteristics, with structures that were used for storing

grain, potatoes, producing wine, keeping animals and a barn for the hay. In previous centuries there was also a blacksmith, a kitchen for preparing food for the pigs, and a special area where shepherds from Carnia brought their animals to stay during the winter. Around 250 animals were lodged here, with the shepherds coming in spring to take back their herds, and leaving a small part to the family, as a payment for their services.

Slovenian tradition. The family sells all their natural products both in the agriturismo and online, with free home delivery for the Trieste area, so you can order fantastic meat and milk produce, fresh eggs, honey, excellent wine (I recommend Lune – a delightful combination of Vitovska and Malvazija, with long maceration, non-filtered, aged in barrique barrels for 2 years), and unique products like their Malvasia soap.

All the various agricultural, economic and trade activities were recorded in the family’s private library, which was destroyed, along with the family’s vast fortune, when the house was set on fire in 1944. The Milic family was left without a roof, quite literally, and started living as nomads, moving through the surrounding countryside, sleeping in barns and stables, in exchange for work. After several years they came back to the village and started rebuilding their little empire, which was destroyed by war. They started by selling milk and vegetables in Trieste, opening an osmizza, and hosting many local events. In the 1980s they were the first in the province and the region to open an agriturismo, with the vision and energy of Andrej and Bernarda Milic to “preserve the land, because it does not belong to us. It belongs to past generations that have nourished and cultivated it, and above all, it belongs to future generations.” The rooms at the agriturismo are rustically beautiful, carefully crafted by local artisans, with dark wood, cool stones, 19th century furniture, the pervading scent of beeswax, and the promise of a truly great night’s sleep. They reflect the overall concept of the agriturismo, which is based on a profound respect for nature, a mission to preserve tradition and heritage, and is a wonderful example of diverse intercultural influences, typical of this border region. The farm is a great place for kids to roam free and explore, to see the funny-looking mangaliza pigs (originally from the small Serbian village of Mangulica, favored by Maria Teresa and thus spread throughout the Austro-Hungarian territories), large white pigs, heifers, horses, chicken, sheep, goats, and to run around the colorful vineyards, but above all to discover a natural way of life.

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Spectacular Carso landscape

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Here you can also try forgotten delicacies, like the frize/ocvirki (crunchy and crispy cooked lard bits), and the special struccolo bollito/kuhani štruklji – a symbol of infinity, happiness and the 25

• Science in the City •

Trieste City of Science 2020 By Charlotte Phillips Ok, so we didn’t pick a great year, but welcome to the European City of Science 2020! The festival takes place in a different city every two years, and this year it’s going to be held in Trieste. The festival will include a variety of events for all ages in theatres, public spaces, and scientific institutions around the city, with many events either in English or with English subtitles. Due to a certain slight disruption these days, the organizers have decided to run the festival from July to September, but with exhibitions and events more widely spaced than was originally planned. As they’re required to work around social distancing requirements, it’ll be interesting to see what they come up with, with mention of several events happening online or outdoors. This year’s program includes theatre, workshops, concerts, shows, and exhibitions. Here’s a quick taster: TriesteACT – science on stage. There will be a week of public theatre performances from ten theatre companies, in total around one hundred artists under 35 from all over the world. Sea to Plate: The Hitchhiker’s Guide to sea-food consumption – at Caffé San Marco. A “scientific tasting” in which dinner and scientific explanation will be deliciously, scientifically, and creatively integrated in the menu! The Astronomical Observatory of Trieste will host a Virtual Tour of the Universe, an immersive experience in virtual reality, allowing guest to discover the celestial sphere. The ShorTS International Film Festival Trieste will host a section dedicated to the best international short films made using virtual reality technology. 27

The Famelab international public speaking show about science will return, featuring finalists from previous editions of FameLab all over the world! Some of the best and brightest young researchers will be tasked with explaining cutting edge research in three minutes. Check out their website for more information.

• Community •

From Barcola to Contovello: A Walk To Remember By Alessandra Ressa

If you live in Trieste and you have never visited Contovello village, you have definitely missed out. Clinging to the mountain and overlooking the sea, medieval Contovello is the pearl of the Karstic hills for its architectural beauty, unique history and breathtaking views. Not to mention its terraced vineyards which produce excellent local wines you can enjoy in nearby “osmizas” (for example, in osmiza Verginella). If you want to add a little bit of physical challenge to your visit, here is a unique itinerary you will surely enjoy. The refreshing home made wines and prosciuttos will taste a lot better after that. From the waterfront neighborhood of Barcola take the steep Salita Cedas a Mare, across the street from the last Topolino. Walk under the railway bridge and follow the road all the way up to its end. You will see some exclusive villas surrounded by luscious woods overlooking the sea. The road becomes narrower, until it eventually turns into a trail. A steep semi-natural stairway will tell you that the trail is temporarily interrupted at the top. Go across the gap in the wall at the end of the stairway and turn right on the paved road. Follow the road uphill as soon as possible. You’ll find yourself in winding Strada del Friuli. Take another right and walk for approximately 150 meters (watch out for the racing cars) until you see municipal trash bins across the street. That’s where the trail continues all the way up to Strada Napoleonica. On the way up, enjoy the scent of wild marjoram, thyme and sage, their tiny bushes growing out of the 30

white-washed rocks. When you reach the main Napoleonica trail turn left and walk through the magnificent clean-cut cliffs where brave Triestini practice rock climbing every weekend. Continue until you reach the end of the Napoleonica and its parking lot. A little further down on your left you will see the beginning of yet another trail, this time with its unmistakable red and white circular sign. Follow the trail all the way to Contovello and when you find yourself among country houses, keep left whenever possible. If you pass a huge concrete monster with weird balconies and stairs (a spooky abandoned retirement home), you are on the right track. Go across Strada del Friuli once again and follow the main road up to Contovello church and main square. Congratulations, you made it.

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unique itinerary you will surely enjoy

”

• Expert Advice •

Can You Handle Change? By Kira Stellato

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be curious and don’t expect stability

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Today we are talking about change. Change is an unavoidable. Sometimes it’s within our control, but most often it’s not. Our jobs, our family situations, our bodies change — and not always for the better. So, we need to adjust. Living away from one’s home country and family is a change. But fortunately, there are ways to adapt to change, and even to take advantage of it. First of all, use your sense of humor. Find the humor in the situation. Trying to find a funny moment during a difficult situation can be a wonderful way to create space needed to see a vexing problem from a new perspective. It can help others feel better as well. Secondly, talk about problems more than feelings. I know, I’m a psychologist and we often talk about feelings. However, instead of working through your emotions, try and work with your emotions and feelings. Welcome everything, don’t push away anything. This doesn’t mean of course, that you need to ignore your troubles. No, no but you need to bring compassionate attention to them and then come up with a practical plan. Thirdly, don’t stress out about stress! Remember, if you believe stress kills you, it will. If you believe stress is trying to carry you over a big obstacle or through a challenging situation, then you’ll become more resilient and may even enjoy life more. So, your reaction to stress has a much greater impact on your health and success than the stress itself. So be wise. Finally, focus on your values instead of your fears. Reminding ourselves of what’s important to us — family, friends, religious believes, scientific achievement, great music, creative expression, and so on — can create a surprisingly powerful buffer against whatever troubles may be ailing us. Be curious and don’t expect stability. Research has shown that being adaptive increases your opportunities to thrive even in the harshest environment. So don’t get stuck to the good old days. Be creative and inspire others. So, if you want to be more successful at handling change there’s one thing you need to do: welcome it Till the next time: Buona vita! Ciao.

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change is unavoidable 34

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• Expert Advice •

Six Practices: a Pathway to Making Good Decisions By Theresa Conti

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The knowledge that you can handle anything that comes your way is the key to allowing yourself to take risks Susan Jeffers, Ph.D

” Do you suffer from procrastination? Indecision? Have a difficult time knowing what to do? How do it? Or when? If so, you’re not alone. Decision-making can be stressful. Weighing options, and the uncertainty that comes from stepping into the unknown, can make us question our thinking, elicit feelings of anxiety and stop us in our tracks. Whether you are concerned about the affects the pandemic will have on your future, are considering moving abroad and living as an expat in a new country or are wondering who to hire for that project that’s been sitting on the back burner, here are several practices I have developed to build trust and move us forward. See which of the following six practices resonate with you. Try one or try them all. Whichever you choose, each one will help to free a block that’s been keeping you feeling stuck.

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Six Practices A Pathway to Making Good Decisions

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Practice #1: Let go. Release your expectations and painful outcomes from the past. Rather than obsess about what might happen, or what you did or did not do, choose to investigate instead. Ask yourself: “What is there for me to learn from this situation?” I am a big fan of journaling and find the practice helpful. Perhaps you will, as well. Practice #2: When in doubt, don’t. Forcing a solution before its time adds undo stress and can prevent new ideas from surfacing. Refocus your attention and give yourself, and the situation you are deliberating, some space. Trust that the guidance, answers and direction you seek will present themselves – likely when least expected. Practice #3: Face your fears. If you’re worried about making a wrong choice, start by making small ones. Write your decisions down in a notepad or journal and begin taking small, manageable actions that lead you to your goal. Should you experience an unpleasant result, trust that you can handle it and re-evaluate the situation. People sometimes meet with failure before experiencing success. Look at Bill Gates and Colonel Sanders! ! Life may throw us curveballs, but don’t let fear keep you from moving forward. Practice #4: Reality check. Make a list of all the good decisions you have made to date, and add to it daily. Re-read as necessary to remember your successes. Practice #5: Do the next right thing. When feeling overwhelmed, rather than focusing on the big picture, chunk it down into small pieces and do the next right thing. This will reduce your anxiety and develop a foundation of trust. Each step will lead to the next, and will eventually guide you to where you’re meant to be. Practice #6: Appreciation. Acknowledge yourself for taking the actions and trying something new. Life is meant to be lived, one day at a time. Have fun and enjoy and journey!

• Around town •

Veni, Vidi, Verdi! Trieste’s Opera House By Nick Day

Teatro Lirico Giuseppe Verdi opera house is named after the composer, but it wasn’t always called that. Privately constructed, it was inaugurated as the Teatro Nuovo on April 21, 1801, and replaced the smaller 800-seat Cesareo Regio Teatro di San Pietro. It opened to a performance of Johann Simon Mayr’s “Ginevra di Scozia”. Initially, the Nuovo had 1,400 seats, and in 1821 became known as the Teatro Grande. By the end of the 18th century, the need for a new theatre in Trieste became evident. Its main theatre, the Teatro di San Pietro, had become increasingly inadequate and finally closed its doors in 1800. A proposal to the Austrian Chancery from Giovanni Matteo Tommasini to build a private theatre had existed since 1795. In June 1798, a contract was drawn up whereby annual funding would come from the municipality and Tommasini would hold the rights to several boxes and the rights to sell others. Gian Antonio Selva, the architect of the La Fenice in Venice, was engaged, and he designed a classic horseshoe-shaped auditorium.However, Selva’s exterior designs were considered too plain for the Austrians who then engaged another architect, Matteo Pertsch, to solve the problem. He accomplished this by incorporating elements of Milan’s La Scala opera house. The “Nuovo” became a mixture of La Fenice on the inside and La Scala on the outside. The theatre was the site of two Verdi opera premieres: Il Corsaro in 1848 (featuring the soprano Giuseppina Strepponi, in the leading role, and whom Verdi married in 1859,) and Stiffelio, an 1850 production which Verdisupervised, albeit 40

not without controversy. However, before these premieres, Verdi’s operas had begun to dominate the Teatro Grande’s stage, followed by all the major works of the opera repertoire, including those by Puccini and Wagner. A further name change to Teatro Comunale followed in 1861, due to a switch from private to public ownership. It stayed as this throughout the latter years of the 19th century. By 1881, seating capacity had been increased to 2,000 through the use of existing standing room spaces; but, by that December, the theatre was declared unsafe and was closed for renovations. During that time electricity replaced gas lighting for the reopening in 1889 with 1,000 seats. Within hours of Verdi’s death, in January 1901, the theatre was once again renamed in his honour. Extensively restored from 1992—1997, with about 1300 seats, it re-opened with a Viva Verdi concert which included excerpts from many of the composer’s operas. Like the restoration of La Scala between 2001 and 2004, a temporary alternative venue was quickly created in Trieste at the Sala Tripcovich, which continues to offer space for chamber opera and operettas. A major feature of the Teatro Verdi’s programming over the past 40 years has been the “International Festival of Operetta” which takes place every summer. This stems from the original Austrian occupation of the city in the 19th century and the fact that Trieste did not become part of Italy until 1918. The theatre has seen many world opera premieres, and in addition to Ginevra di Scozia by Simon Mayr, the public heard Annibale in Capua by Antonio Salieri on May 20, 1801.

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Teatro Lirico Giuseppe Verdi opera house is named after the composer, but it wasn’t always called that

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• Daily life •

Michael Jordan’s Trieste Game Sneakers Sold at Auction for Record $615,000 By Alessandra Ressa

The famous pair of sneakers Michael Jordan used in Trieste have been sold at an auction at Christie’s on Thursday August 13th in New York City for a record $615,000. The Nike Air Jordan 1 High sneakers, described as the “rarest of the rare”, were used by the Chicago Bulls star in an exhibition game at the Trieste sports hall in 1985, a match to remember in the history of basketball, between the Italian team Stefanel Trieste and Snaidero Caserta.

“This is the original shoe with an actual piece of the backboard, a piece of glass, in the sole of the shoe,” said Caitlin Donovan, head of handbag and sneaker sales at Christie’s — which organized the auction with Stadium Goods. Though the sale broke the record set in May when a pair of Air Jordan1’s sold for $560,000, the new auction landed below the estimated range of $650,000 and $850,000. The identity and nationality of the wealthy collector are still unknown.

On 25 August young Jordan, wearing his trademark number 23 jersey and a pair of his new Air Jordan 1 shoes, scored 30 points. Far more notable than his points total, however, was the play in the game in which he sprang into the air from his left foot, vaulted an Italian player, and landed a slam dunk with such force that it shattered the glass of the backboard. Jordan’s left shoe from the game still contains a shard of the backboard embedded in its sole. This unique feature accounts for its record sale on Thursday.

• Around town •

Demystifying WWII Era Symbols on the Buildings of Trieste By Victor Caneva

After moving to Italy, I began to notice faded symbols painted on older buildings. Some were letter “I’s” with circles around them. Others were more colorful and sported the letters “US,” which I ethnocentrically assumed referred to the United States. Friendly locals informed that the signs had to do with World War II era bomb shelters, but didn’t know much else about them. This week I finally got around to researching the meaning of these fascinating relics of the war. During the Second World War, communities were required to provide shelters to protect their citizens from potential bombings. Appropriate signage was required to ensure that the residents could easily find their way to safety during air raids and so emergency personnel could locate the survivors of a bombardment. Although there were several nationwide edicts about wartime symbols, the implementation of signs like these appears to have been coordinated at the local level, with the markers varying throughout Italy. Walking around Trieste, the symbols I have noticed most are a black letter “I” with a white background and a black circle around it and the letters “US” in black with a red circle around them that continues downward in the shape of an arrow. I have heard 44

some entertaining theories about their meanings and have even come up with a few embarrassingly overcomplicated ideas about the symbols myself, but their purposes are pretty straightforward. Despite my more interesting hypothesising, the “I’s” simply mark the location of an idrante, or hydrant, for use in the event of a fire resulting from an attack. Some of these “I’s” are also accompanied by a metal plate. “US” stands for Uscita di Sicurezza or “emergency exit.” These symbols were particularly important because they pointed rescue crews to the appropriate place to extract survivors from a collapsed building. Trieste is home to almost 300 hundred of these sober reminders of wartime life. In addition to the Idrante and Uscita di Sicurezza signs, the city’s palazzi also feature several “P’s” for pozzo, indicating the presence of a well. I have only been able to confirm the existence of these three types of symbols in Trieste, but there very well may be more. In other parts of Italy, “R” indicates a refuge or place to receive medical care, “C” denotes a cistern or a canal, “F” can indicate a fountain, and “V” refers to ventilation areas for shelters. Although the theories I heard about “US” meaning the United States and “I” referring to Italy were

entertaining and my argument that “I” had to stand for ingresso or entrance almost made sense, I’m pleased to ultimately discover the truth about these clues to Trieste’s wartime experience.

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Trieste is home to almost 300 hundred of these sober reminders of wartime life

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• Community •

Why and How Do We Choose Trieste? By MacTrieste

In thinking through my non-Triestini friends here it seems we are a community unlike other expat groups I’ve experienced around the world. In the Far East, US and other parts of Europe the prevalence or default was invariably “work-related” and “career development” – “a two or three year posting” occasionally “business opportunity” – but rarely “by accident.” Nobody bought property. Trieste expats however seem to be more likely here out of choice and for more personal reasons. Often “by accident” – “we visited and just knew immediately” or “we passed through occasionally and each time stayed for longer” or simply “it’s our favorite place.” Also: “I followed Mr. / Miss Right” (occasionally with the “follower” remaining here once things proved to be not so “right.”). I’ve even heard “the food…and the wine!” and “the sunsets.” As an aside, the American and utterly sublime jazz trumpeter Chet Baker admitted that the reason for his being able to speak Italian was a 16 month prison sentence in Lucca for drug offences. On release he decided to stay in Italy for 3 more years – but I have not heard anything like that from expats in Trieste. Yet! But whatever the reason – there seems to be a strong appreciation of what we find here, and love in our special city between the sea and the mountains and the sheer variety and beauty of what’s on offer. Others have experienced this too and Jan Morris’s seminal work beautifully leads as through an extended meditative rhapsody on the history, the people, events and surroundings observed by an outsider turned quasi Triestina. I’m now reading Richard Bassett’s “Last Days in Old Europe” which begins as a familiar tale: young British chap arrives in Trieste in 1979 to teach English with an enthusiasm and curiosity for Central Europe, its history, languages and people. Beginning (where else) just off the train on the Istrian stone slabs of the Molo Audace experiencing the Adriatic Sea, pink sky, Bora and silhouetted distant Alps for the first time. Within a few months (as a result of chance encounters in his first days and friendships quickly made) he has met ageing poets, writers, artists and painters who have all lived through the region’s last eighty years of turmoil (and with more to come in 1980s Yugoslavia). He was a guest in some of the grand old Palazzi on the canal, joined the Circolo del Bridge in the old Stock Exchange building, met the Austrian Officer air ace who in 1915 commanded the Trieste naval air station in defending the Gulf of Trieste’s airspace from the Italians, who knew Emperor Franz Joseph and was in 1917 decorated for chivalry by the last Habsburg Emperor Charles. 46

Richard Bassett lived for a year in an Austrian countess’s palazzo on XXX Ottobre. When the countess’s Italian prince died in the 20s she became involved with an Albanian Government Minister, and then had an affair with the last British Ambassador to Nazi Germany in the 1930s. Over drinks in the Castle of Duino at the invitation of the Prince of the Thurn and Taxis family Richard was asked “How is Prince Charles?” whilst being shown the rooms where Maria Rilkelived and wrote his Duino Elegies in 1912. Bassett then got the bus home to XXX Ottobre. Getting on a wrong train resulted in the young author meeting with and then visiting Winston Churchill’s former Personal Liaison Officer who had been parachuted into wartime Yugoslavia to work with Marshall Tito (then one of several partisan leaders) after he’d broken with the Soviets. The Triestino part of the book ends with Richard moving to Austria and having coffee with the last Empress of Austria, last Queen of Hungary, Queen of Bohemia before going on to Warsaw, Leipzig and Prague which he describes in the second half of the book. The book is a lighter and shorter read than Jan Morris’s but is no less thoughtful and elegantly written. He also writes (mostly) about the not-sofamous people he meets, and discusses just enough of the languages, architecture and his observations are thoughtful, considered and engaging. A good read for expats and Triestini alike and an added insight for us all to the many others who have also chosen, passed through, moved, stayed, lived in and enjoyed this city – whatever their reasons. 48

“ we

love our special city between the sea and the mountains and the sheer variety and beauty of what’s on offer

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• Goings on •

Doppio Malto: a New Beer House in Trieste By Micol Brusaferro

A beer house, a restaurant, a new place to hang out or to play some games – all this is Doppio Malto, which opened on 4 July, in the shopping center Il Giulia. The craft beer is made in Italy and it’s the main speciality of the pub. The lunch and dinner menu offers grilled meat, pizzas, hamburgers, salads, and cakes. Customers will also find a corner to relax, with sofas and armchairs, not to mention foosball, darts and feee wi-fi. Trieste’s restaurant is the seventeenth Doppio Malto in Italy. Giovanni Porcu, founder and CEO of Foodbrand Spa, says: «Double Malto is not only a place to eat and drink well, but a place to spend quality time together with friends and loved ones, a happy place with the focus on customer experience. Our idea of happiness are large tables and free flow of excellent beer. I am happy to start this project in Trieste».

• Science in the City •

Trieste hosts Euroscience By Charlotte Phillips The Euroscience Open Forum ESOF2020 kicks off in Trieste on September 2nd with a wide range of science, policy, and industry-themed events. Events in categories such as Nourishing the Planet, Innovative Ecosystems, Sustainable Future, and the intriguingly named Live Long and Prosper are tagged as being related to Science, Science to Business, or Careers in the online programme. As in the case of the Science in the City festival, some events will be held virtually, while others will take place in the brand new Trieste Convention Centre in the Old Port, which is also home to several art exhibitions that complement the themes of the forum. Registration can be made in advance or on the day, with a multi-tier pricing system that allows access for either one day or all the days of the forum. Reductions are available for many, with researchers, students, teachers, and those only wishing to attend the online sessions receiving a significant discount. Sessions include To Bee or not to Bee, which discusses the effect of pollution and climate change on honey bee conservation and apiculture; Immunity, from cancer to COVID-19: Dreams and Challenges; and The magic triangle? What Smart Cities try to achieve, which explores the sustainability of modern cities. The speakers are a diverse selection of scientists and policy makers from all over Europe. Check out the program for a look at the wide range of sessions happening both in Trieste and online this week.

What to Do in Trieste This September 2020

As this strangest of summers is coming to an end, there are still plenty of events happening and things to do in Trieste this September 2020, from concerts to late openings at museums.

1 Sept. Learn about archeology by night at the beautiful Museo Winckelmann.

8 Sep. Cool off by the beautiful waterfall in Val Rosandra.

9 Sept. It is still warm enough to take a dip in the very famous Trieste beach Pedocin.

2 Sept. Enjoy an evening out in osmiza. For open osmizas this season visit their website.

3 Sept. A beautiful walk under full moon? Look no further than the Castello Miramare.

4 Sept. All Municipal Museums of Trieste are free to public until December, 31. Go out there and explore!

5 Sept. Check out the new exhibition at Magazzino delle Idee.

10 Sept. Enjoy a multicultural aperitivo at CaffĂ¨ San Marco from 7 pm on. Food, drinks and great company guaranteed!

11 Sept. Escape the city and hop on Delfino Verde to the beautiful island of Grado.

12 Sept. Take Delfino Verde to Muggia and spend the day exploring the beautiful town by the sea.

13 Sept. Spend the day with your dog at Fido Lido in Muggia.

Sept. Take part in the Science in the City Festival.

Sept. Have a sunset drink with friends at beachside barÂ Barachin de Barcola.

Sept. Take a walk on Napoleonica trail and visit the enigmatic Monte Grisa temple.

Sept.

Wander through the collection of ancient

sculptures at Museo Winckelmann.

16 Sept. Visit the exhibit “Marcello Dudovich, Fotografia Fra Arte e Passione” at Castello Miramare.

Sept. Enjoy a Neapolitan pizza at Eataly with an amazing view of Sacchetta.

24 Sept. Admire the ancient art in the splendid halls of Museo Revoltella.

Sept. Indulge in a delicious rebecchin at Buffet da Peppi.

Sept. If you’re looking for adventure, try the Europe’s longest zip line ‘Flying in the Sky’ in Sauris.

18 Sept. Take a day trip to Monte Lussari and enjoy some cool mountain air.

19 Sept. Enjoy your morning capo-in-b in Piazza Unità.

20 Sept. Search for a bargain at the Mercatino Dell’antiquariato right behind Piazza Unità.

21 Sept. Pamper yourself with a relaxing spa treatment at Porto Piccolo Spa.

22 Sept. For a cultural trip out of town, visit Udine and its Municipal Museums.

26 Sept. Grab a bargain at the antique market Mercato dei Tritoni in Piazza V Veneto (open 8 am- 8 pm).

27 Sept. For a sweet treat near Piazza Sant’Antonio stop by Pasticceria La Bomboniera.

28 Sept. Visit the magnificent Lago di Cavazzo, just an hour and a half from Trieste.

29 Sept. Rent a SUP at Sistiana Beach Caravella and take in the scenic views surrounding the beaches.

30 Sept. Make a day trip to the breathtaking town of Cividale del Friuli, stopping for wine tasting at Bastianich Wines. 53

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to pick up your October issue featuring Barcolana and other events

IN TRIESTE