Top 5 Experiences in Rijeka

CHIldREn’S HOuSE Children’s House stimulates imagination and daydreaming, invites play and laughter. Films, concerts, plays, video games, 3D printing, robotics, scientific experiments, ecology and environmental protection, outdoor games and walks in the nature are just some of the programs offered here. The values behind the Children’s House suggest that children growing up in a creative environment are able to develop their potential, express themselves better and eventually become creators of a better and brighter future. QArt‑kvart “Benčić”, www.djecjakuca.hr/.

FOOd MARkET Visiting a city’s marketplace is a brilliant way to get a feel for how people live and what you’ll find on their tables at mealtimes. Instead of industrially-grown lettuce you can buy handfuls of young lettuce leaves, peppery rucola and baby radicchio at the market stalls. The main city market is also an architectural treasure. It is set behind the old cargo docks right at the water’s edge, fringed with atmospheric old warehouses, some of which are monuments of industrial heritage from the end of the 19th century. QE‑3, Verdieva.

kRužnA STREET ((CIRClE STREET)) By strolling through a small passage on Jadranski trg you will be transported into a world of murals, youth, and culture. Kružna street received its name due to its looped shape (krug=circle) which makes it a perfect space for artistic expression; a place where plenty of NGOs organize cultural events and communicate empowering messages about multiculturally, LGBT, women’s rights. The street is conveniently “furnished” with colourful wooden pallets as benches, where you can sit and relax, absorb the beauty and feast your mural-loving eyes.QC‑2.

nEBO RESTAuRAnT & lOunGE By dEnI SRdOč Situated on a fifth floor of the new Hilton resort with a breathtaking view over Kvarner Bay, this exciting, fine dining restaurant has been awarded a Michelin star recently. Tantalise your taste buds with divine food and wine based on local produce, prepared with a modern twist. Superb service with great attention to detail in both taste and presentation make this place an amazing culinary experience. The sky here is a name - but certainly not the limit! QOpatijska ulica 9, tel. (+385‑51) 60 01 19, www.neborijeka.com. Open 17:00‑23:00; closed Mon. A TRSAT STAIRWAy Rijeka’s ‘Stairway to Heaven‘consists of 561 stone steps built for the pilgrims as the path to the Church of Our Lady of Trsat. The legend says that the Franciscans made a deal with the Devil: if he makes a stairway, the devil will have the soul of whoever climbs the stairway first. Once he finished his work, the Devil waited for the victim. However, the Franciscans fooled him and let a goat climb first. The Devil was so enraged that he mixed the steps, so that nobody has been able to count them to this day!QA‑1, Stube Petra Kružića.

BlATO In a very traditional Croatian style with cosy rafters, tiled floors and dark wood – our team was divided in opinion - charming or socialist? We’ll plump for the first - this is an unpretentious place to try classic fish and meat dishes in a local atmosphere.QF‑1, Titov trg 8c, tel. (+385‑51) 33 69 70. Open 09:00‑15:00; Sat 09:00‑14:00; closed Sun. (60 ‑ 130 kn). APGT ćAkulA (CHITCHAT WITH lOCAlS) This place has a motto: ‘Think global, eat local’. Which is exactly what you get here. Mediterranean style cuisine made with local products, all seasoned with ‘ćakula’ which in the vernacular means ‘chitchat’. With chicken rolls, lasagne, tuna steak or legume, it is your choice. Ćakula serves great daily menus or marende as it’s called in the local dialect. Don’t forget to hydrate yourself properly with local craft beer! QD‑1, Ul. pod Voltun 15, tel. (+385‑) 91 595 87 71. Open 09:00‑17:00; closed Sat, Sun. (30‑70kn). APGBSVJ6 COnCA d’ORO In the heart of the city, just off Korzo, (Conca d’oro-Golden Seashell in Italian or Zlatna Školjka in Croatian) has long enjoyed the reputation as one of the city’s classiest restaurants. The seafood is indeed great (meat is on the menu too), and the comfortable interior is a soothing balance of modern seating and quirky antique decorations.The wine list is based on local winemakers, mostly from the Istrian area. QC‑2, Kružna 12a, tel. (+385‑51) 21 37 82. Open 11:00‑24:00. The kitchen is open until 22:30. (90‑200kn). APGB FERAl Affordable konoba – it’s a simple place with a small menu – which often means that what they do, they do well. Every day, there’s a daily menu with 5-6 dishes from which you can choose and prices are not high at all.The wine are good and not overpriced.QE‑2, Matije Gupca 5b, tel. (+385‑51) 21 22 74, www.konoba‑feral.com. Open 10:00‑22:00; Sun 10:00‑17:00. July ‑ September 10 Open 10:00 ‑ 23:00. (50‑100kn). APGTBS GIRICA Named after a little fish whose fate is usually similar to that of whitebait, i.e. it ends up deep fried and eaten head, tail and all with a sprinkling of lemon. A good meal is to be had in this pleasantly laid-back family run restaurant in the Rijeka suburbs.QN‑2, Vukovarska 65a, tel. (+385‑51) 67 72 20, www.konoba‑girica.incroatia.info/. Open 09:00‑ 18:00; closed Sun. (50 ‑ 200 kn). APGTL IVE This restaurant in the western outskirts is run by a family of fishermen, so locals know it’s some of the freshest seafood to be had.QJ‑2, Miroslava Krleže 14, tel. (+385‑51) 62 62 65. Open 10:00‑24:00; closed Mon. (120 ‑ 150 kn). AGTBL6 kOnOBA FIuME Very popular among the locals, this cozy little osteria is conveniently located near the fish market which makes it a great stop for lunch. For a moderate price you will be served fresh seafood pasta, grilled or fried calamari, black risotto, to name just a few. This family run bistro with a simple list of local favourites topped with great and friendly service will make everyone feel at home. QE‑3, Ul. Vatroslava Lisin‑ skog 12, tel. (+385‑51) 31 21 08. Open 07:00‑19:00; Sat 07:00‑15:00; closed Sun. (40‑120) kn. BJ nA kAnTunu Excellent fish dishes and a great wine list at budget prices. Comfortable outside seating stretching by the Dead Channel with an excellent view of the fortress Trsat. With a relaxed style and great food, it’s a favourite with Rijeka’s architects’ community.QE‑3, Wenzelova 4, tel. (+385‑ 51) 31 32 71. Open 0:00‑22:00; closed Sun. (50‑200kn). APGTBSJ nOnO FRAnE Located in Viškovo, a fair-sized village just outside Rijeka to the northwest, this family restaurant has a chirpy spirit and wonderful staff to match. The menu here is prepared the old-fashioned original way, from meat dishes to homemade cakes. Mmm…very tasty! Grilled foods here are particularly appetising. They are also more than happy to organise wedding parties.QViškovo 47, Viškovo, tel. (+385‑51) 56 12 19, www.nonofrane.com. Open 12:00‑23:00; closed Mon. (70‑170kn). APGTBSL6 PRIMORSkA kOnOBA Local-themed tavern (konoba) which aims to popularize local food and drink products. It is a great place for a break on an Old Town corner. QD‑2, Krojačka 1, tel. (+385‑) 095 671 67 17, www.facebook.com/primorskakonoba. Open 10:00‑24:00; closed Sun. (45‑130kn). A TARSA The huge size of this place is only matched by the size of the menu. With good cooking and comfortable, country-style surroundings, Tarsa is a little different from the rest, making it popular with locals. Try sausages with honey or cheese with truffles – a speciality from nearby Istria.QR‑2, Josipa Kulfaneka 10, Trsat, tel. (+385‑51) 45 20 89. Open 10:00‑24:00; closed Mon. (70 ‑ 250 kn). APGTUBSL6 TRSATICA A great spot if you’re alone, with a special someone, and even with a horde of children. Trsatica has a terrace capable of accommodating all comers. It’s located close to the castle, and park, and has an amazing view. Portions are generous, and much of the cooking is done outdoors so you can keep an eye on things. Pretty much everyone is agreed that the best steak in Rijeka is to be found here. QR‑2, Šetalište Joakima Rakovca 33, tel. (+385‑ 51) 45 27 16, www.restaurant‑trsatica.com. Open 10:00‑23:00; Sun 10:00‑17:00; closed Tue. (60 ‑ 150 kn). PTB6 rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Pizza

BOOnkER Located in the old shelter bunker in the centre of Rijeka, this popular pizzeria&lounge bar sits right by the waterfront, only a few meters from the sea. Good selections of finger food, pasta and pizza as well as the mains will provide you witha variety of options from which to choose. Find your place on a terrace and sit back to enjoy the great marina views with some good music in the background! QC‑2, Istarsko pristanište 1, tel. (+385‑51) 40 17 38, www.boonker.hr/. Open 08:00‑24:00. (80‑200kn). BJ MASlInA nA zElEnOM TRGu A gourmet bistro-pizzeria in the heart of the city with a focus on using high-quality seasonal ingredients from the nearby town market! Pizza is there ‘numero uno’ offer, particularly their gourmet sorts. Daily menu with local produce specials such as humus, beef carpaccio, pasta with shrimp and truffles, and vegetarian dishes too.QD‑2, Koblerov trg bb, tel. (+385‑51) 56 35 63, www.mnzt.hr. Open 12:00‑24:00. (60‑210kn). APGTBSJ O’HARA From Zagreb to Rijeka, this pizza franchise is booming with their one-of-a-kind authentic Napolitano style pizzas. The entire process has ‘Naples’ written all over it, many of the ingredients derive from the city as do the

sYmBOl kEY

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled B Outside seating L Guarded parking S Take away 6 Pet-friendly J Old town location recipes (including the making of the dough). The oven is one of a kind and the entire process is open for visitors to watch the pizza makers in action. Get a real tasty of Italy at O’Hara’s. QC‑2, Riva 12a, tel. (+385‑51) 56 88 88, www.facebook.com/ohararijeka. Open 08:00‑23:00. (46‑130kn). AJ PIzzERIA BRACERA Bracera has a rustic, seafaring personality. Its crusty pizzas from the clay oven and they do great big crispy salads.The place is named for a well known type of boat, with a boat on display on the ceiling in the main dining hall. Prices are reasonable.QC‑2, Kružna ulica 12, tel. (+385‑51) 32 24 98, www.pizzeria‑bracera.com.hr. Open 11:00‑24:00. (32‑95kn). APGTB6

qUick Eats

BuFFET COCCO Small, yet lively and vibrant best describe this busy eatery come lunchtime. Here, one can taste real local homemade food as if it comes from mama’s own kitchen. Your waiter will be the owner who really shines in making your experience a winner.QB‑2, Uski prolaz 1, tel. (+385‑51) 32 26 50/(+385‑) 091 196 02 53. Open 09:00‑17:00; Sat 10:00‑ 15:00; closed Sun. (40‑110 kn). AGTB MORnAR Right by the ferry terminal, a great place for a cheap lunch. Mornar (“the sailor”) serves both meat and fish dishes. Try homemade goulash with gnocchi, roast veal or basically any of fish specialities from the menu.QD‑3, Riva Boduli 5b, tel. (+385‑51) 31 22 22. Open 08:00‑23:00. (55‑140kn). APGTBSLJ6 nOSH COSMOPOlITAn FOOd BAR This is the hotspot in town, a heaven for both foodies and Instagrammers. Right in the city centre, this gastronomical mosaic with cuisine from all over the world offers a large variety of brunch and tapas which makes it a great option for a tasty breakfast as well as for a light evening meal combined

with cocktails, wine or beer. ‘Inspired by cravings’ is the motto here, and your cravings will surely be satisfied. QE‑2, Andrije Medulića 8, tel. (+385‑) 099 749 71 69. Open 09:00‑24:00; closed Sun. (45‑90kn). APBSJ SPOOn Spoon is a small family restaurant with traditional Croatian cuisine prepared by consulting Grandma’s recipes. The guiding thought was to serve the authentic dishes eaten with the spoon. On offer are fava beans soup, čobanac meat soup, ajngemahtec soup with chicken, vegetables and dumplings, Dalmatian style tripes, jota soup, cod in a broth and more. There is also a nice choice of vegan and vegetarian dishes. QD‑1, Trg Jurja Klovića 2, tel. (+385‑) 97 661 14 43. Open 10:00‑17:00; closed Sat, Sun. (30‑ 48kn). ABJ

VEgEtaRian

TIFAn Offers a unique healthy, balanced and tasty lacto-vegetarian menu (no meat, fish or eggs). Freshly prepared food, weekly specials as well as a large selection of soft drinks and sweets with the possibility of home deliveries made in stainless steel containers – not your average foil or polystyrene boxes. Treat yourself!QT‑3, Spinčićeva 2, tel. (+385‑) 098 85 00 19, www.tifan.hr. Open 11:30‑15:00; closed Sun. (42 kn). APGTBSL6

OUt Of tOwn

dRAGA dI lOVRAnA Head for this delightful little family-run hilltop hotel near Lovran, away from the heat and the crowds, and you’ll find fantastic Mediterranean food (including fish they catch themselves) prepared with the utmost care. Try homemade bread and desserts, and drink in the view from the terrace.QLovranska draga 1, Lovran, tel. (+385‑51) 29 41 66, www.dragadilovrana.hr. Open 13:00‑23:00. (180‑ 220kn). APGTBL kOnOBA VAllE lOSCA A traditional inn that gets the thumbs up from the local gourmet crowd, Valle Losca is one of those places that has built up a cult reputation by offering seasonal ingredients and a shrewd selection of rustic recipes – casseroles, baked meats and fish, and lots of home-made pasta. The ambience is as cosy as the food, with a cute bare stone interior and a small summer terrace out on this characteristic Volosko street. Not many tables though so try and reserve. QUl. Andrije Štangera 2, Opatija, tel. (+385‑) 095 580 37 57. Open 13:00‑23:00; closed Mon, Sun. July ‑ August 31 Open 13:00 ‑ 23:00, Sun 13:00 ‑ 23:00. (80 ‑ 160 kn). APB MAlA RIBA This delightful restaurant serves tapas the ‘Kvarner way’ where you can devour crab, snails, fish, squid, and olives… in small combinations. Though the menu is based mainly around fish, meat lovers are never left out. It’s on the main road between Matulji and Kastav!QTometići 33a, Mat‑ ulji, tel. (+385‑51) 27 79 45, www.mala‑riba.com. Open 11:30‑23:00. (90‑140 kn). APGTB6 PlAVI POdRuM A high class restaurant in Volosko, more traditional than Le Mandrać. An excellent fish menu and wine list - the owner was Sommelier of the Year in 2001 and 2002. Although the interior is very smart, the terrace is nowhere near as stylish. QObala Frane Supila 12, Volosko‑Opatija, tel. (+385‑51) 70 12 23/(+385‑) 098 25 75 73, www.plavipodrum.com. Open 12:00‑23:00. (110‑200 kn). APGTBS RIVICA Rivica is iconic to Krk with a family history of food and hospitality lasting three generations. Some call it a hedonistic experience with attention paid to detail, what’s important is that it offers a fusion of traditional Mediterranean cuisine and modern gastronomy. Seafood is definitely high on the menu as is local produce from truffles to asparagus blended with other foods. There is also a small wine cellar inside the restaurant featuring mostly local Croatian wines.QRibarska obala 13, Njivice, Krk, tel. (+385‑51) 84 61 01, www.rivica.hr. Open 12:00‑23:00. (70‑200 kn). APTBJ6 STAnCIjA kOVAčIćI Idyllically positioned below Mt. Učka and above Opatija. With a flair for tradition, chef Vinko Frlan favours local produce above all with meat, fish, cheese, Istrian prosciutto, truffles, olive oil and herbs grown in the restaurant garden. Not to mention the Boškarin beef, lamb baked under the iron bell, dishes with asparagus, nettle, wild garlic, homemade pasta, gnocchi, ravioli, homemade bread and more. The fusion of contemporary meets tradition is scene not only in the menu but in the stunning architecture of the restaurant which also houses a serene outdoor terrace. Stancija Kovačići is perfect for a weekend getaway as they have five rooms for accommodation with the Učka Nature Park nearby, mesmerising Opatija down below, and lots of hiking trails in the surrounding area. This hidden gem is well worth a visit when exploring the Kvarner region!QRukavac 51, Matulji, tel. (+385‑51) 27 21 06, www.stancija‑kovacici.hr/. Open 12:00‑23:00; closed Mon, Tue. July and August Open 12:00 23:00, Mon and Tue 18:00 ‑ 23:00. (100‑160 kn).

zIjAVICA Right beside the seafront and with a terrace out on the beach, this is another place that brings out the best in Kvarner cuisine – traditional food served with contemporary finesse, with priority given to what’s fresh and seasonal. It’s a great place to try local fish, scampi, seashells and homemade fuži pasta, and there’s usually something featuring traditional boškarin beef on the menu. QŠetalište 25, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385‑51) 73 72 43, www. konoba‑zijavica.com/. Open 12:00‑23:00; closed Wed. (110‑160 kn). APBS