Trend Journal of
GREEN FASHION GENERATION FASH 503 Fall 2020 Fashion Forecasting and Business Trend Irene Lai Professor Trine Jensen
outline Part 1. Introduction & concept - The Spark Part 2. Consumer Report Part 3. Color Forecasting Part 4. Textile Forecasting Part 5. Short/Long term Forecasting Resource
Part 1. Introduction & Concept
Sustaininability in Fashion has begun ten decades ago, especially
after a host of impacts of Fast Fashion Fact which is easily associated with the term “SWEATSHOP”. Savar building collapse in Bangladesh in 2013, the historical issue caught the eye of the majority public to focus on what is happening in fashion industry. Danger of the environment such as water pollution, poor materials in clothing and labor exploitation in sweat factory, reflects that human activities has posted a threat to our environment and endangered creature life. In recent years, the condition has been worse due to Fast Fashion Trend goes virus all over the world. Hence, I intend to take researches on the topic of sustainable fashion (or the so-called eco fashion, green fashion) through the lens of Fast Fashion Facts. Furthermore, although fashion industries soared in profit among all to be the second most profitable industry, it stands for the second largest polluter in the world as well, pushing fashion communities forward to think of the future of fashion. In terms of this, I no longer regard fashion as simply fancy and fabulous field, but should also consider about the cost it brings along. Since 2016, the design concept of sustainable fashion had been brought onto fashion week via BURBERRY, DIOR, and etc. Prestigious fashion designer Vivienne Westwood has also promoted the value of sustainable fashion, “ Buy less, choose well, make it last”, which is literally the voice from slow fashion to defense the wave of fast fashion.
Fast Fashion Reverse
H&M,
one of the biggest leader in fast fashion, embarked its first Conscious collection in spring, 2011, and launched old clothes recycle event to convey sustainable fashion to customers through their vast influence. Their “Fashion Forever” strategy to implement eco fashion is the most striking point for reversal of stereotype of Mcfashion (fast replacement) which I think value could be re-interpreted via green practice.CONVERSE,which has launched the campaign of material recycling, transform the wasted plastics into a reproduced product.UNIQLO is another prestigious fast fashion brand which executes eco-fashion practice via recycling the fabrics. All of these companies make their effort to transform brand image, to predict future trend of green fashion.
Sustainability seems an unavoidable trend in fashion industry. In the idea of green fashion, companies set up their strategies in regards of long-lasting goals throughout eco-friendly core. Attracted by the idea and practice of fashion advocators in both domestic and exotic nation,I personally tend to focus on the execution of eco-fashion and name it “green fashion” as my trend journal theme to explore more on this scope.
Part 2. Consumer Report
@cestagneswu
@molly_chiang
@claire.lai.5895
• Area: Asian Market • Born year: 1990–2005 A.D.(generation Z) • Age: 15–30
Research • Primary ✓ Qualitative : Model- KOL / Friends in Taiwan ✓ Quantitative : Questionnaire https://zh.surveymonkey.com/r/S7PXRYX • Secondary ✓ Qualitative : BOF / Vogue Taipei fashion week
Digital era
@serene_her_morning_elegance
Over past decades, Key opinion leaders(KOL)such as youtuber launched as new style of communication channel.Since 2015, some ordinary people have become the leaders from every scope of life in Taiwan. Youtuber thrives, popping up to make influences on consumer behavior, especially the new generation after 1990s. The youngsters are easily affected by these influencers on shopping, making choices and follow the values they agree with.I choose two of Taiwanese youtubers as example that cause great trend between generation z in Taiwan, Meg Lu and Serene Vitale, born in 1990s,are supporting the launch of sustainable fashion of brands to unveil the beginning of consumer report.
Primary qualitative @serene_her_morning_elegance
Meg Lu (Taiwanese youtuber) Meg is a Taiwanese youtuber, born in 1994,who has established a great influence with over 120k followers in fashion communities in Taiwan. She shares her wearing styles and matching skills in the limited choice of apparels and has engaged in H&M conscious collection events several times. Along with the power of her charisma, generation z follow her steps to attend events of eco-fashion.
Primary qualitative
@maygobla
Primary qualitative
@cestagneswu
@claire.lai.5895
@zxcvb9398
Friends / supporters share Eco- fashion ideas. @dontkjoanne
Primary quantitative
• 40%
respondents root for H&M sustainable fashion strategies
amount
Questionnaire
• 20%
respondents root for Uniqlo sustainable fashion strategies
• Over 50 %
Time
of respondents are willing to engage in sustainable fashion
H&M CONSCIOUS
H&M recycling
Uniqlo recycling
ZARA recycling
Not interested
amount
Primary quantitative
Time
Over 90%
Over 50%
60-70%
Less than 30%
of respondents predict
60 - 70% possibilities
that sustainability in mainstream of fashion world
.
Secondary qualitative
• NEWS releases • BOFVOICES
Secondary qualitative As fast fashion greens on, luxury fashion redirect themselves all go in green trend as well. As the main supporters of fast fashion, generation Z start to think about the enormous impacts of apparel industries. They keep abreast of sustainable campaigns of fast fashion due to the awareness of recycling and reusing benefits. Furthermore, the trend of eco-fashion causes a big reward from fashion communities, even some native designers start up their own business of ecooriented. Under this wave, the theme of 19/20 Taipei fashion week are focusing on sustainable fashion, and the vision is to explore more side on green practice in fashion industries, resale market and fur-free just to name a few. In terms of the debut of Taipei fashion week in past two years, it seems that eco-fashion would definitely grow into a powerful streams in the following years in Taiwan.
“ Love Earth, Love Zero waste.” - Story Wear.
Part 3. Color Forecasting
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Part 4. Textile Forecasting
Research • Primary research • Secondary research Generation Z usually targets at fast fashion / lifewear stores for clothes shopping. Therefore, I choose top six brands for investigation. Brands named GAP, Uniqlo, ZARA, NET, GU and H&M CONSCIOUS.
Primary research Danim / Single jersey 100% cotton Cotton is the most widely used fabrics all around the world and all seasons/years. It is natural fiber and has been widely used in sustainable clothing. Generation Z tend to wear comfortable textile for the basic matching that cotton is the classic choice for them all the time.For the recycled fabrics,100% organic cotton is common ingredient.
100% Wool / Wool blend In terms of winter and the natural source, wool has always been popular with the target audience.Between sustainable collection, wool has played a critical role in fabrics, no matter of 100% or blend in recycled polyester/Acrylic.
Primary research Recycled polyester blend Sustainable fabrics have great proportion made from recycled polyester, which comes from post consumer waste.
Plain fabrics - TencelTM Lyocell blend Tencel is a kind of sustainable wool, commonly blended in eco-friendly clothings. Made from eco-soft techniques, Tencel is popular with generation Z who pursue breathable wearing experience.
Secondary research
• Magazines • WGSN
From magazines and online sources: I find the trend is focusing on cozy and soft fabrics in 20/21. Home mode is on because of the pandemic, people pursue a more comfortable, cozy and warm vibe at home. Corduroy, down coats, cashmere blend are selected. Moreover, in pursuing minimalism and function-oriented, trend has gone to hybrid-technical and second-skin sheen. Water-repellent, durable ripstop nylon and gore-tex will be highly valued this time. Fast Fashion brand such as Uniqlo has gradually focused on fabrics that could be recycled and reused, and they have keep figuring out the technique for the fabrics in following years.
Part 5. Short/Long term Forecasting
21/22 GREEN FASHION
@hm
SECONDARY RESEARCH
Simplicity from Nature Comfort from Nature
• WGSN • VOGUE TAIWAN • ELLE TAIWAN
Texture from Nature
Bio - Regenerate
• SIMPLICITY: uncomplicated process • COMFORT: home mode and authentic textile • TEXTURE: made from nature to protect the environment • BIO-REGENERATE: reuse and recycle the clothes through pollution-free procedure
Green and clean – Zero waste fashion Since the Industrial Revolution in 18 century, Capitalism has changed consumer behavior enormously. People are driven by the mass production to bear high purchasing ability, and even speed up the growth of supply chain. Fast Fashion is under the wave of consuming era in lately 1980s, early 1990s. While the fashion industries grows rapidly in business scale and profits over decades, the environment reverses to beat human livings. In recent years, worldwide organizations have set up some principles to urge protection of environment, and so as fashion communities. Giant fast fashion chain brand, H&M has started their green strategies on recycling and reusing textiles in 2010.Nowadays, recycle and reuse methods are not enough to afford the harms of over producing products. Reduce, is a way out for people to practice, which is also bring the idea of minimalism. Several of Key Opinion Leaders launch their minimal living style to clean up the space, less wastes.These practices will keep growing as a potential trend,providing a guideline for companies on feasible strategies in nearly future, such as just-in-time production, to make good control of safety inventories. 3R rules will be developed in balance from many ways, and change purchasing behavior to urge sustainability.
@storywear
Green and clean – zero waste fashion In 2019/20, materials and fabrics selection have been the highlight in sustainable practice. The term “Zero waste”has been introduced to fashion world and will continue on the side of consumer behavior. The concept is not only limited to using eco-friendly textile, but also evokes consumer awareness on the circle of products. Zero waste such as plastic-free, is a goal to achieve, but the concept is to stimulate consumer mindset to re-thinking (think twice) before buying. Fur-free, fair-trading labels gradually form as one of main stream in 20/21.Consumer engagement on sustainability will evolve into society campaign, boycott the products that endanger the wildlife, or be aware of water usage are possible events correspond to eco-fashion in following years. Besides, cross- collaboration with green groups is another foreseeable strategy to implement sustainable fashion. Working intensively with local craftmanship to reduce extra waste of procession and logistics, could focus on the idea of “life is art/fashion”.Furthermore, re-production of used fabrics from local factory launches several potential chance to turn waste into gold. 21ss Taipei fashion week advocates #REPLAY idea, which defenses the negative result of over-shopping. The majority of Target Audience is awaked by these actions to explore more possibilities in zero waste, and co-operation with eco-oriented organizations capture the attention of fashion communities to develop in green.
According to the thriving development of digital marketing, online shopping becomes a main channel to reach out customers, especially under the lockdown, people prefer home shopping online. This trend inevitably affects luxury brands. E-commerce platform for selling new collections, and also secondhand luxury. With the luxury resale market on track to hit high profit of $6 billion globally, used luxury goods is a new style of niche market. As for generation Z in Taiwan, they can not afford too expensive price on luxury goods, and in terms of recycling and reusing trend popped up, the consumers tend to seek substitute ways to reach luxury items. Local brands such as pinkoi, provides the platform for secondhand products;online bookstores also create a place for reselling,even physical vintage markets in local areas. Mindset of consumers moving towards secondhand market is also because of they enjoy to discover the treasure from out-of-date gadgets. They throwback to history and retrieve the archive and find something is renewable,to reinterprete new mode. By 2021, the secondhand industry is set to be worth an estimated US$36 billion according to a report from the Boston Consulting Group.In Taiwan, secondhand luxury business has been launched by KOL, youtubers to reach over US$60 thousand a year since 2018.Resale market seems a predictable trend for at least next five years in luxury that promote the idea of less consuming, more reusing and achieve the vision of sustainable fashion.
Resale market
https://www.lifestyleasia.com/ind/style/fashion/second-hand-luxury-is-the-new-sustainable-trend/ https://www.biologicaldiversity.org/programs/population_and_sustainability/sustainability/live_more_sustainably.html https://www.picuki.com/tag/%E9%9B%B6%E5%BB%A2%E6%A3%84%E6%99%82%E5%B0%9A https://www.lifestyleasia.com/ind/style/fashion/second-hand-luxury-is-the-new-sustainable-trend/ https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/tags/topics/sustainability https://www.vogue.com.tw/fashion/article/taipei-fashion-week-vogue-fashions-night-out-2020-replay https://www.vogue.com.tw/fashion/article/taipei-fashion-week-vogue-fashions-night-out-2020-replay https://www.beautimode.com/article/content/86909/