The art of manipulating fabric by Irina Kononova

Contents clupr.r r0 QuLrrN.

rot

FORCNORD PREhcr

. . ........... .. .. .rri

CEm\6 rHr Mosr uoM T H r sB o o ( . . . . .

c h a p r c rl

Chaprerrr-Sr!ft1Nc ..22e lfi

G^l[RrNc...3

ckpr.r 7 S oc(Nc.. rrt . opposile Eds. cRrhfti'g Chaprer2-SETRRTNG ..r9

urNc DARrs. .. .. ..267 slPPrE\rENr RYFuLNrss MiKr_G R!.tsl|l . cdh&ld shsh Edged]lu t. . ciLh(d DoubleEdscdRulll.

M'xEp M^--'rur ^IDN5 -coMBrr.'AnoNs

M^(Nc FLorN.Es

APP!NDIX chiprrg-{orDrNc

-MrKNc

GoDcrs. .. .. .. 31

.. ..la7

. Hard,s$! Cord.dQundrg . udrines.{n codtd auirdng I N D . X .... . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . r 0 4

Controlled Crushing

A R T $ f * . ir

f Gathenng GATHERTNG

c i r r ' d n g M e r h o d s . . . . .....l.

luomdiccnh.nng .. ..

BAsrcs G.1TI'EIINGMrlrioDs

sRb'lL'4 cdhEedsdrctng..6 rhrousLchannelsH,trd, milure, itrlomad!. rnd onc kind oI ct s!. gilne'ng ar nanda.d.stfth.d F r t L n g . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

*ine irc sPelhxy qriarions d'ar

Run.d Eds.

Thud bscd h,ndrnd nachine edhedDsinvorvs rwopioaduits: (1) rd'lhins erc$ rh. dsigmrd cdg.dr rhcfihn. thinrlr.sm allo$lDei(2)

garhd'ng 8alhdins..

puljng d! lnE loo*

'hEd dDslnu un*und fidh rh. .M or LhcnikhiDg winr ont hand $r,ilc unn8 ,heo,ns hrnd ro push therabn.nb,bdf,long rh€hdly hdd rlread Th. spesny oi d.nsnt of ,r. eDi.rords c&d by r gdnubg. h.ombharioDqi$

... . .... ll

{hih G 'hc nnoum and d$in or li.Iold! libcckd tron rhr nirdrs. LmB nrd$ '13h'\ salnq€d

snhdns.. ..

nad 8orJ,-ii8 dQ.nds on nn, n'ig sdtrhs B<rEr svirg dud n vuhdrblcrobicakundqh sion,u* doubl.dor exh-shrs rhrad i! th€ rcdt. ltrchdr ln( nd snrh rlh a sood-siz.dtTor Rr Note, rhis chapd b.gins \dh

Msrcs. indn.r.d byr 8ny band Lo$rd uDd@ad

dr i.t.vant

Mqd gath.nry. dr"* Gt fabh. up dnb dc 'hrcadofr si,,shbw ol $m runningnnch6 (Fis. l l)

tr \i lr!]r].dlgil]rtriri].]tr{.,f

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aDd tb) bhd.

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la) sthd3tibh an ,cdseqalreted dr nachh,F trching tb)FrtE ar edse rn.Is

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T[. rurLd.ng. is r deordr, ldgr hlt finishto.rhesarhftd

Flutin8is a hand.a0pliqu.r!ch.

$hc!

r{ {n.hh8

Lob. g h*d

groovg heNen naDdiru fol,ls. labnr! edge rhe!.ip or tubr!

Lh. rrbft on 'n. $nid dl .quily k.d runninsnirdrs lthe lar8{

bre*s 'nLda ntu rftd sdlo bg TonRlnLi:r( L) \!rh rlreldBc or ri .xrnsion dipn€d berqrh 'he CIh

'nur.) D6ribuL.'h. ga'hds

rh dgr dr.h *vd,l rlrsds ol dr lrbn. Ln$. n&dlc lidbrc tub bhs n threushrh. ourlheon rhe rduodn'dnDing(hrn{dl.$in ueGee(b)in Fis r-ra) Rlmove 'he g{hd4 'hdd whd .ll 'h. Aninnsiblciar nan nndclin i,3 rhl .onroG8rdEi,8 Lefor ir 'hr ri'bln r sh md srhll}l i p*ML *r) readi.s r]t sarlFcd cdgc

.ins sn.hs. rh$ .o!$ them

appliqr or bpillh

ndt h tht

ea'hdiu tln.d rLtcLlopnrdri,* (r) s€! a rar ofhpe b Lhcbkk.r 'lE srhenrs 5drch6 lhdndng rh.

Fs t15 la) hgel4t2ed 3''y tat a eatturedswa€ lb) ||hichh sbyed A! iNrtbletadrF r r rhhe

srth.Alordcldmlkdl.d[|mnl G) ss r dtco'nne nry oIlibbon. hp€, or hGid or bP oI rhc s {hsnnchB h ftri' (F1g I 17). lReI{ b Ed$ finEh,ie lor

srhere,l ed!e.s$n ro rhesdhred i+L si'rs bgt 'q i rarhs, whdr

sion A lull &lg. ro .ds. nry nika dreqhil! fqinsbro z curour rndr I rourddioni4 1Fjs.r.rt) w[or ft ta]c oLlibnc addcdbr, Penanedn,y is uodEnrbh.u$ , ru'ros

h.idr A fa.hg fdr riul.{dse ryFsn.cdsc ,nd all-sids snhq. hs nftd rull dg.ro{dst ltiigs

'hich canberomNay

Fs 1.t6 l4 P*athcins skhitiv

i@ a saMd edse (b)Gathercd edqea|a|abfu.]dedkd|aa laaetszd bchs betatelc) tuhirs tbht tide autrftush a stashin tha

rh an d rrhdnh;

hfk

hrir rorr! snbocd.rndau. r\&r

F9 t 1e ta) Ftnwhe a p'ry oath. e|ed2p]j]quiwrhfub|.rads

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SNGLE-EDGE

"aa'nenrs Me'nods"o! pagel).

GATHFRlNG t. subiln. fte 3ltllednB (rcrei!o .smbnrfe 6athd.d sfi .hn's

Norls & YARrArroNs PRocrDrrxEs r. Drttdc how muth fuuns llr &bdc brlo$ fte sarhsededse shNrd disPray.-lisht. nodq. n€nr Ior tnc Ea'neEdedgero 6rihdc fteleigrhor ung{h rh. dsird rullDcsin the srheFd rabn., huhlply fi. hE r f*urchrnl bl rhcxnounr indr cd in d. Iolloving cha :

rlc 5En&!d fE siDsle.edge galhen4 is "cu( nlch. and g h.r o! 'ne {cigh'gdn of worn f.cb n.i skbildc hodonaly end

nnish(' Al'. \rirchins on die .ft$gfh

G piddnd

ovd fl.l

ins on Ac lcncd'gnf br€u$ ln. Iolls rcl€6.d rrcm crcss8Ei! sarh. Fiog}2agnqedh-n)''r1ai

fol& Ibn lcnerhsnbg,ti.rbg.'

lb) s@r, sa'n 6d.ds.dtDed at an4et . lc) statahl;@th*d edsesbhirat b tuNe (d)stdi6'h,

Drup.Asinq,-.d* Eathrnnz .xrendsb rs adFced.dg6 of , lqdmd pr.. orrib.. Aslie!trIr, tt. n16.d lolds dnp. tlMid dr cmd. and 'l]. no.dns €d8e.sith-

dredih6s

- 0ai@!r i1+no'o

As ft. difierencebdweendre lcnstf,dl r fibfu gd&rl to n*ch ftar kr8d incft66. thr

l.Dsrhfor rh. ursdrrcd Lbric, .nd cur$e hhnc.rr nec.$ary pi.rt rh.fibi. ro r.hrde thr Divi le rhealse 6 h€8*hqed and m,ik lh. divr0B bctwen

rig,4'sine]€€dga7ah.rngBd. ahB (a)Fatu re@se tun adta-

nn,ghl[,4inc tol&, d.scrndsto . poi G4 (a) in Fi8 I l0). anglcdghrr or frdd lhin rhc ods in,l rngleaheBrh. .urc of $c ,lEprns and$c lm$h ol dc poinr. Fat @tbw.a singL4d9 Edtn enig, rhegrneFd edgrkea r6m lh. staighr and ho*onel whnr rchinin3 , noadq alse rh* t)pl6 dc. my bc *bilL.d b diht trp or dom, rnd, b.csN. of i6 ficfr bilitytocuNeo!anglew]lena sarighr. g,rh.nd .dg. k shhtlLed al.6ed lron rh. .ontourd nebiIttig d*p.n and $vell, anl the silhoudte or tht notung .dge fthrs

G.c (b) h FB l-20).s'EEh'mins 'h. nd'ins drgeby 6Eiqs

srbili:ins a nBishr. sain<cd edseb dip in a .uNe nrcth6 {old5@' orthe tro n3rdgc, norc so a lhc d.pd ol |hc curc inse6. $, unl€$ O) rhehbri. isl.ng|hy lu.ishr dd*n (sn |h. cdhcdn8, or (2) the sitl.ning silhoudte oI Ih€nm'tn3€dge15@dd{Edb .deln& G< G) tn Ftg l 20). lBrsd or rh. salneftd44r hser meanne , !s rh. slhouck oI rhe flo hg edgeas rhe Ei€a 1.nsd of ungdhmd frbric n.cdcd to rrsduce nE dsird fuun*s in aflottlgldg€ha$tngf@Eoi'

wh.n ,n ipplicdion fttiuns s {nighr. on-gnin,nortinscd8c virh rhcd*iEd fullis b,ngtnS tdmourtd gdhenng tds. dc trbn. needsto be cut fmn a pruern O) M*e a Iull-siE pnrn. n'n' shpr rh. sdh.rt,l fabric is ro nrch (2) sbsh a @P) or inat pi. un tnb rdPs, .udn8 in d. dn.t rion thr fordssin hmg (l) Trp.

rhc {op5 b rndhs nic( oL pip.i rDi.id rpiiL b ni.kh our rhe rr rn ' :dd rrr dsn d lrlllEs:fkrFrhedos ro tu hlgd .dgc. ,+) conn.ditrg dc s.oaErd nnlI q hrch beom6 rrr pa(sn tor dc hbn. Lo bc g{htrtd v idionl

'n| rol& rdBrd froin ih€ sithcred .dg. (F g. I 1l).Aildr$aE rlloMn.c b r fin,1pa,rh FonPPlicanons so r.,€. ,rrat rn

ts inp

tutir, i.d!c

$lc sqle Io! prEn

rhe hller

drathg pur

not o! llt $rcd doND sa&qDsFnmmdapply'hd.md'

sr4r.dr4r?.z/ge 8drrrlg do6tr har a nortnecdgr rhe drmrnndnrrfoldsftLr6.d rbn &c srhsr,g {n.hs dinbnl and drs rrparn tuoppdst..dgc{hich 5nrcrhed smoo and$cd ni ro oainutu a naqrhishl, sb]€d 'h. sids b.gin ro ddg the ner.d .dsc ou oI :ltnncnr. rdo ouch c{h&,!8dn roc r !ry.d.dgr

Fs 1e2 la)cath€inertud byhe

appNfuedgehEhEs|ayed|lal and stai4hL (b) ruba stibhad inb a Figl2lslasEad.eead@b|r dQ||ingh|MtadgawdMa dnt@red adoa:la) ared d tu (a) s6hed hta tu.hh tti6 patln

ered.@ rubetuyedoE;, isit

Nhnh tEtd b

naledjr a .urv. lh{ociErcs,lik. .u'otrl'na rouiddion.thr oppsft .ds. rjghdygrhrftd.do*s rtr RJkr rromr.€ndsl poim-prc. lid€d rhr vd,h of In€ d). cquL ,bEEdiusot rhcdrtul,. curour. Lr$ 'n,i 'hc ndiutssn opuirs sunonndtdhy satneF:Mon l}rn 'h! ndiE-rh. gdhriig dos bui

FDlln6 muldplirsfrlhs(h rddrron 10a buirdupot ri.ft/ dtr.{r'sel gd1rrdtr8bmus rtr ungdhered.d3. ol oneds n,biria thc sathqcd .d8c of d. idr 'ic. rh. g{h.Ed .+e of hbh. nrip *l is scm ro rheuDsrhned cdg. or nnP *r; sdhdcd ricr $ is *wn rd ftc ung{hercd eds.otfti !l ?ndso on Ekh rifl inc(6s rhclensd of ft salhdcd cdsefor lLc n.x' irt (FE.l 2r).lr lhr lishhs or LhcgrhFins is also irqea3l lor suftinvc ri.F. luu Dca eir iro*s crfus$nrl}

Frs t23 FM tbhty sat\sed st@'hg at thebp, utness tft@4 ghdudlybddQnabaly\hfi@lh.

qG jop rn ( nnn)ronr[.

e'rq: la) one har at htqel Faren A lb) .|ashed br hised at the @o sEedqebrredadar|dded e'par$d edse re dtawn (c)Paten .edqa|hd.wh$qJreEd,vlmbh

I i i

Opposrrp-Enct GATHERING madesna trwhen (6hed omo

'abrcbeiwei6eg.derededs*

PRocEDURES ro g c 'lr oppdrirt ed8s oI a hns'h ot faLnicadip, $e Ploedtrftsd.slnb€dIol.shglt.Jg.

NorEs €r VARTATToN5 dpposi.edsen:biltin8 ro archor borr, grln{Ed cdss ntd Mlruh 'lrc,duscdloLdi h ! dn(nonal lords lan oovc nraigtl 5d*!cn rhc pur. 0dhr. or skN: rhe ronnz rion dfrhe {u I rd tokLrrh{ ar l$ddld bd!.en rhesdhd.d Ldls * rht pinrl-. desisr foc$ dl whd' dPP6ik snh.red elgs dlnpd folds in b.N{n !&q .lnP. or Purr Ftr d,7p.J opPdi.. .ds. gartrri{ rh( ErE$d lotds tnoush rd door or drL dri \sishr N m $r s.rhrEd ds* ii. !ih. licd dGfl bgtlh& (Ft r-2r. Fq Pufed owstu 4e e!a9ng. lrt lol tohard ber\tm rk gxln. trcd edss nB, bl Eridldy shon as ,tuy G enrcn d'. garhcadrds* of I rwo$ nnP of hbn. hn*d or dnPing. rh. rords,bsr wvrld brEkins up rnb $irriry rktgB 'd psk (Ft r 16).rhrdoPd or purld .Jrd so\* Nort p@reun..d a5rhenry btunes $rallc !nhk.

&!FnTpos {u.suLherins. p''Ilrdopr$iL.eds.garh|rnson b.

Fgl,6snipo|kh.g2beQdan c'p6lb6d9es'slabizedlaa3E\

Ii6 dr Idkls hk ! dnsorat retx rbEhif $nh ,h. e46 Afr. nir) ri:lng,hcL€ft.dg.b\ br{ids 'h. gadrufs n(ches ro : nar pdl lhe rrshredg. down$2rdfo(rtu11f beIoEbAring 'hL sdhred alg. ro oi.h r|r dgr r, r suid.line 'fulNldon lh nq (83 r.,7)

Fig127,opp@ib.ad@galhe,ia

ctr1t.? aPp6k ds. udt]jd6s Drsdtrenngasgm{lronon€sid. or 'he fihnc nLip rish'ly th. hns .trrvd.Lft f$Dr d'rtdlvdppo. sir€rishrly(G{ ourid. cuN), aM sbhrlhg $. ds$ eodinstf

Flg'13o|]sing|he3lashand. edg..ga|h6|irpafuhatnbe ga|heredMonaneedge|h4|he ohe|andsla|d|aadanob' Ev.n.ulat owBtut tdE gdlh?r ii3, c cn& of a fabricrnp *e i.sid. cdg. nccdsvay rghr garh, 4hson raryenitchs (th.l,qe tht nn.ha, 'he sEall€rthc (nt,1 op.nins)Th. oppolne.dgt-rh. outide of rhe ctclFis l,gh y $ sed rhe sathccdnrip.rtr b. m,nipulft.drnd a n4, qheel-lik. 6 ddemircd b),rllc,ndmrol s:rhsine on th. oubide edse. srh hrv€ dep fords,.ollkEd 1rcurd a cminr axis, lhd dimh Lh a lrn ndDre1owaid rhe outr edsc(rjs 1 29).ro sathq 'hr ouErcdsc,$c srip nur b. ronsd rhrn rhecircunfercnrt or .dg. vir cwruilly br shbilued rn.. Gr.lnleErce = dh,ndq x I r4) as$c hrgd n.aslrem.nr *h€n srimarjDgrh. r.4'h leed€d b g{hcr rhe ourt! cdg. a$ip a! aid. * r hdtrs or $e immdsi dEuL,rourrintwir g,,hs rLr 'hzn'h. idi$ oI 'he inEndedcir QbrourLinr. qho SdhdEd o! oppGft edss. vill d.vatr tn rh€

whcn none ol rh6r fit rh. str i, noD,dnft sla+{!d{pBd pdtrhs tor rh. oppGidrdg. g4rrerins. Iinnions ol. hlsd sh,pecoveEd wtrh rold5 thar -os Ircn I ds{ly gdmd edg. b , ushrly g*htfttl edse (Fig. I 30), oi , hrsd sb4r€ lL u unu$a| ouinc covclcd viln loldi thar .s$ rrcm edgero

.d8e(ris I rr), nr.d P€nms sl'sh a copyot Ge elcd shlpc $B'stu a.b$ Ircn edgero cdgein rh. diftcrion or ,hefordsr'PErd 'nePieslpandl{DlndpteoI p{pci to .nrr3e rheedgs tor $rh ns outtinc rharfib h d. 3prt6 Add n,r alloMncs afti dnfting

Ard 5ubiliing rh. grinmd .dc6 tn a nnishal mznn.i rmns. *rcthms rnd phtug rn. .dg6 b , paddedbdrd iI n*ded srsn wnh ,n ion herdabov. th€ gnhcins allowb .odlandd4 brfoc

= ilrt 'l

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ALL-SIDES GATHERINc

2, Gahg a|l Jou'\il th. cdg!or fab. nc lur lDm rh€sarknngF\({!, mdlq fte gathendlctrgrlr ber!(n turh6 or iid6 Lothe Itn$h betr\en ftLRrdiokha q suy lur or oudhedfrerndrerF smlr (ndd ro crdNins

PRocEDr,rRrs r. sd.d ,irgq shaP6$ih sinph. N.ompl,otrd orri!6 ro dmti o all-sidc sadu.J p rn nn

3. shbiltt thc 8a'hocd edgs ,nd 5haP.. choonng a Nrhdd rhd srns ft i equn.nd6 or Lhr iPpliqdonGcfero.subnliv Gnh.nd nn.hhs on Page 6)

Fn byxn {Lualanou{ nl

NorEs & VARrafioNs

bhadrtrl*ot rumb cdixr l h.rgh, for Lhcirnftd rulncs rnd.nlirgr by 'n rFourr G{ Fis r r2). Dividtrh. .(rved

rhc nrndrid fdrall sid6 sdh dLngis , {une 8arrr.rtd 10I snxll.rsquaE,anolrlsdhd.d rd r smrll.rohl. a ci(1. grheredto

ino lrrllcs ,nJ ']uan6. mark

rh*.or, Nirh,n€cds6 ndtr:cJ

Diudelons *Dishr cds.srh

rrrsiliq ol dr tabrn 'hd billo$ trp benE€nrrr .&cs a prn df rhr appsldfan sids srheri|s An :ll sids silh.ed aPILi on rcds

Prkm virh .onp.hbl' sraccd

Frtuwhs E o unEul rljhd roilsid6 sdhcing,uiriins nec dh and 'ln*d ro .orrrp* rhEpulq ummd) foldsd€Libcurl!Fu. Dwi,u .dnv&s rhebaloorins hb ic besftn rh. {,b ned cdss inb i mac.riL.rc1il dlridEs and (rds ro.Furto$rry on lx8c9)

b|a|lfubpanddawfuldesb ebp ftu nusltered

jnctid.s

l,rfi hsd a subltl or hxnil. sids slhfhs Lo,n

drct.s

hui.h.d srhrE on lourdinonfalr oul rhebundled hbn. rbor. ,h. $'heE b Dak€, purlrrd lools soDrdn4 hk. r qud,r rodnoot (Fi8 r ], Aru rrnrhssrLgh,l) l$s 'haron.hnlir ongin.lc'rtu

9e Thcrun.d rtrrrdds lhePuf corcpr a *ep turrn c.nr hc pufi !n(re insid. r hl8q .tutc of rabr!.nn.h oi rbeourtiiEotrht p{fl dnk and8i,her findins rh3 grhe6Ld\r*n,hEromcard rt( Pur roI louMn,n (Fi: r,r4)

I sh s heringd6dib6 .h€ rvc6. sd€ oI pufl sdh{in8 shtn n beohA lie nglt side Dinple by nli6s lik poin6suroundcd rh. pufis Tne ft. Ioldsreplace back ol rh. on the cinultr ontlbs rabtu an'l pmeed 6 dcdb.d ro! pnfg{h€nns roi Pi.ned nir grftedn3" $. dnplG exPud hro

Ma$d rund pulE citnd dt covcng. ol liillr run6 aM nGrrcd putrsro n r@ denne'lby the Nnber or rumcdpufls rbchcd 'd rherolndation The kiclraud 30.lG.ly $a. djadr rdn.'l e'ls6 rc roRd npwid rh€ DI' ned Plfi on r hE snug8k tnc pufi iBid. r lulk am. ni*d nom e cushiondlgrlh6. outliG .vo corc.ntrn cncb sPa.ed,botrt ,a" (l.rd),Fn, od.d insidtI l,rgq circleof hbn.. M& wo rhradld ru.dl.s, srith on rhedu! ItG. calhd bolh Iw5 bgh l shile pNhiu lhe pufi drL in &. cnrF up. ald dregdhs.d labricber$en |h. bs downro rom i b,* und{ $c puftrnd rum. s€wlnc bascroa lound:do! (ris. 1-15) (Rels to 'EdgertnGhbg for Rum6" @ w'h prfso.Lrnng, rh. pufis rnd lhe folds.onncdng lllc puffs c@Ehd r])chbnc inro a par En.d rtllcl PuffsrhFing sbns sirh a sEncil of cr ou cid6 amDgEdon i Bnd (Fig. I r5).

usi4 fte scnril, kft ih€ PdEh onb rhengh sideoI rh. Iahnc. sdrh and salns rich druler ou! line tishlly Pushth. pufis w md sFEd odr rhebmched pur labnr {th th poinr o{ the IEde Gsrh* rheedsB of dr r,bric b Mth 6€ nssu(nenB of &e puFgarh€nd ink.or ol ftc tabc A liebl*dshr linins hcked ro rh€g'thabg bchild the purs $mdi6 rhe rabn. o!.hll ind prcv.nb p l.sith.ing thi.rds non bF.kin8 undd sllas

Q-"r .-o

einc rencils harEciilrs * 1161 Nice 6 la4. tn dhdc 6 e hr gd opoings rrd g*h.rlng cur our on rhccinlrr oulljra tr*ed on $. noft ot rh. ribic. wnh r senry sE ,llovrnce cliPp.dand Nrnedundd vbil. si!9, gnthq pnll.d dsht {odnd x rmovabL. seuselire , Pcncilor dorel Us nrcls ftrcsd andscue I sdl ertd sdicbinssell to dtd rutuE FE Fur gdh.ring and i6 vira rio6. rh. $nncdbs roLcrnk6.d by th. s*hainsh<omt longd 6 inq66.

ind depd s rhE.rcks

J#as ;-:tQ\i*_ pt-o. i

-:ri

r a n a ^ c a y o y a\ t ) s h . r t b ) 6 a h e t t e h | , -?.dsich4ld)fwoycyTsb a rcwat ya ws Mbh .. be jored la anah,4 ow at ya 16 and il an

, {,,9!'i'3

ho Li(hrL'nrd

: ::

l -

. !./-, 3

'=,?a

)hei.

.i 11

rY.€i .'fLn

) Shirring SHRRING whengatheredoimu|rip|elwsol * &hingsM *nisht eds rhe d*Emsd ,a h PqErhrow5

,Iel nrrclinglin6 sp1adouL ovd rh. shidng srcR Markthe .hins lnrc on ih. nvcM 5ide ot $e fabricwirh a hbricrar. hdld oi hghl) pns.d folds, or dcp.nd on a sclins nKhinc

PRocEDLTRES nea{rcnenL lor th. shtrrcd fsbri. to n ch. D.cide how gnhenng *ir.h.s shoulddB' puy-slisLr, modmt, s.nd os. ro 6rim.re de hnsrh ot nnshirrcd l:'bft n.eded 'd pro' du.c th. desind lullncs b d. shirrtd fabdc. muldply rhe E. g.' dc*ultEmr

dqhtilrK

by 'ne aEouDr

.lbodlrrtr

@renmirh6.:s4dl r 3 (lnoE) 2. Addinga $cona basurcnem lor ft. non{hirEd l.nsth, ot th. hbii Nob lnd shicd hbn. shriir<rs4hdy d.K 'n€ e h' ftd sriching (Fd xrmpl.. i D" (r0 5cE) squr shiBl 'o 6" (15tb) my shhnr<r (5nr) rrcn i6 non shirtd 11" oojm) bs'n As :he nunber ot sarh crd bwe Inc@s. shrink4e

halv6.qmir.r'nat * lbr mdchedto corespondingses ro PrePaErh€tabrn lor gdhd'nB,.oY* tht mrl<.d lin6 wrh srikhs. n.chin+seM *nisht sdthlag'oiztgzagsdthulgryd

''6*heringMerhodconpss.r). thnid. sdng. dr .od i onc.nd (nrhinc *wing) oI mch snn c*her ech ro{ oI nirhin8 ro a

ach ov roa nn surfaa mrk€d tht &nghg rhhdi {ings or .ords r lhc cndsof wo or non adjaenr rcNsof nidrins in one trush dc tab& imo ,6clf on lh. hudy hdd thH,ls. crther in(h

,hllslbpsW,hii,hebbx.s,.ded

. 4#

.i' L,..ri ri-,riJ. riiijxrF-'if

I L l r r j t!r! jrtll+riir

.'4r"1]urq.ar!i!!\riirr ridaiDah rbtra.iadarrhe.enrar

lffii,ji:rT.r'-rl]ntr .b ? 5 srn4

!a!r*r

dh rale

Norr5 a- VARiArroNs

r" r!r.Ing r | trts' Lr!

tarsiry tandsid./redo' onasde sides ib) sby h;id ri.h.d rori'

L hh, r r F , r r r t . r r L r , f i \

::J' rr,5 orsrLnid srr.hn,a

g ( F , Bl r a n d( f r r b

,i{r

-|]rlr(

s't|fflbn!l]tG

i:,, rr !.d, Fr i5 !r,lunl

LrLhtro$\nl i

rio{r

r L r de o

'hc iish. drPrr0 PD0r!r, LIL

l0l

\trh radnntrgrul!15 !Drorr{rrr)

dutuE!

\1'.rr(0,D$ n'ir s

nduofLl[ rahf!. Lh. hbnr L! lrh

!.nhuD8 .{0\

on Pag! L7) 9N(d

a r*nrrrribur!

{rudurr (rcir

I!h-

rornru.

o crhsirn

ro u,/l(,rrur^s rh| h6. htdr {(h nr.h (rft. b _(;rh.ug \LdDds or p)s! i) r.o5o,ind

ii. drrEd

in'o rjunbl! of$\rl

:< : ; ' -

A v,iiahn dl puff.d3hnnng I,ufl.d tin .nbtl|ishs lounds

sns a 4,and5 ae *e@t ean 6

Iabri.:(1) Pns 'ht nm nlo{anG on rl'c longelgs unds ncarh(2) r mesurd NcNrls sF.!d dd alonerh! l.nsrhor rhe tnp. nt h icrc$ tlr nnp.nd srhcr dghrlr:(r) Rcducnuft dr bncldwro rhesdh.Rd inFr s.rions rd pdfi 'h. 'nr^rr,!s Fie.23. dsq heaw2pdb{6 al hLft,blnr&dch r Iold.ddg.s F a foundarion, shapi,,EscsLLorcdireitu kp$ (se ris. 211) Rtsd

|@nchellwhm|hgskeMTangb fuq'hhoshj|d.gsalE||@ sfuingafuysnaww'mwng |hedescendi.g9lfua|rE9kewed

No tabn!hrar A full or pfli'l Lalti(Fg l lr) Aho sl'imrsth. 6l'i. b :i- on chnmdlcd.ods n eds,noFd 'h. !nd5oI rht sds o. mdsph.nl tb. SiLhd'ngfbn .or hg uDdoncburauowdr gnhcnfs

(FiB 2.3) shonenrhedjshnE sr.v.d slii,irs rq Fo! shidng ro putl, $. dishtr( b{u rD 'hc sarhercdo\5 inur h. alorrNh$ rhrcws ncbu rd 1r 'h. dinaDc!berqEn sdh*d m$ b drca 'Nmd dr pdl $ho adja rtd rcws,c rorc.ddos and. e{{&l\ rons{ fordsdEPcof b pufial shiniDsin coinrudion, p,iedvdy laEc (Fig 2 s) DruP.d elknls.

wh{6

Puredshinrg

Th. rcladonshLp b{we! rolds andreNso{ gadcrednndng thangGfmo PrPlndiculai h dirg ona|{htn shtn4 G sk$lrd

5asdt

'nc$uRdad$ 'n 3arhrtd b\s. hut longs dm ihc rc{s o .[ov sp{€ rorrngling.(lI $. nry hbnc tr

Nq aft( ft mdllg. or surh n ) Aft.. bpntuhi!8 rhelld rowb the tir pul 'hc loldsEl€ed tsomlnc Iulr andholdi| rhd srinkd posnron u'hlcbP5ddnngthcEnrcNo| gadr.ndsltlnng. Nt6ft I rdp shi+, ard sm disFnc tu'n previ ousI\M (Fis.z r0) sr.vh8 shonensft rcrG io{ nssurchenl dI ct@d J,irn,s i5sr End on Ntrhodt onFse 6) lht foldsRi. rl.s.d

bcNe!

qns

sdrh€d in

aubidefudinchanng|so|k@an

-Ee

r€irt aL nF ir i n1:r{3,1!'rii ie /r' oi,€rf f! tii !d n r siii € rFdrt ild-?ri.'ni.G'r'lqr..4ot:'gil,t€ ir , E rlf

1a,r

0 r: i.1. ij . rfilrlnr€o

'! !r-r <rrr€d rr ao!.rrr,{!.r!..rx.,"(r* j(r r4 F.! t an Ir ia:lni r ar I f @ ,r!44

ri trrcd(l i trii ,).!r!d bl f nq, ! ]tl](ibr/(addju|n(ilr!d

{i! oillcr f, f,-ir i4, fry ilr rhEcil!orj:Id!oreA]]!] lia@'[tl!L:de!ll]xr]fi'

H T (,NC

PATTERN SHTRRTNG -6brn automr a t 3hh€d wnh the sathedngrod IonN ry a dsisn

,. srekhhcs.ndrpinrhcccs

or lne pdn mjhiftd hbnc b r pdd.dsu reaDd non\tuh m non hdd abd{€fi. shtiins.

NoEs & YARTATToN5 PRoclDURES

sidcot G. I:bft 6 the o'n{ 2. rEce tne daign onrorhcrmns 3id. dl Ac hbn. $nh e hbnc ]'\Niththegathdlgloo'ilu.h.drc $. frehtn. (dc b "6a&dn's Mdnods on pqqct), sdrh and s,$.r e.h ih€ o{ d; d6isn sqv slo l ndppdg 'o $t&c plss Ioound pivorihc hbric on $e nedlc Ihflr sunline dtEdon h e6.d. €quiE ddj6'frd' lishL'o mod.nk ga$dns $ib

rar $!el npq6 of rhe dds! labd on a enPle of dre d*Ei,rd to ddemic Gr .ppbpnaE nith lmcG rrd rGion sdrins ror &b' ndc ssrheringand ro 6sc d.i,ll d.sign cfledrrss. Ihe p .n n,y b. dt(ittrlt to lolow il rh. sth. dng n t@ tull or th. sl. ol 'lc 'h. d6ign is roo s@[ ro $tuk .ihc appli€ton, msure : eFple oI rh. fahric bcfoE ard aIt! a t{ shirrins of rh. pircm and .quib qd 'hc hqd n*sumenb M.4zln inirg is inrreded lns*d ot touoFiu a pdrcrd, 'hc d€d8n EDd{s rr!.\ ron.id md h,.k*nr, ndcwiys, rcrcs' aM riound,,ivdoping conlisurarione ot puck$. rolds. ard prlE 6

sd.hirs{nd'g(h.nng rrcceed. viiia'idB in rM spr.in8 rnd nr.B ubnnsh r stithingPalnPm dua dir6q in rh. nli* or nsn' dd shtring sftdr lcnsthud kn$on adjunnmG 'hd frodiry ftc lqhftir,4ishde$ oI rhegithdns ,dd mort dhcGion Thc loo.\ gaLh.iingktion .an b€ maDually nnucd by inhihidns l!. hbft fron movhg aslly bw,fti rhc m. de Io inft* fu1ln6s.Fm th. frbrc by holdingit do\r Nr'h i 6nss a ir emel36behind&r dr labn! buikls up in b&k or the Bcrusc or tlre d€dry nd .on pl.xi1) dr rh. e hcKt $n.hiD8, pikrn- and mrandsjhired rabhc m rcldivcly sron3 Dd i,t rDmsR$.nd norr4d prcredion rtittr ssbilizin8 mayte quiftil BsE a sby b rh! shnftd hbnc funak

ro tiE sarherednirhrie

i )r

irit

qqqli,

rt.rr.

PATTERN S H i R RN 6

rirj

.icansod!rnqtrtokno@su4roioliddae,

4 dâ&#x201A;Ź'otr. E$!Ei iiir riff' fcrcii!n$roioonoi @l/F0![dhsoE@nrtrfurdg@Ern!l!e

Supplementary Fullness

* g mIry ; *

, .

J Mahingk"tfJles RUFFLE BAslcs EDGEFrNrsHtN6FoR RurFrEs Do$led.?bn... .. ..

nune desigrE . ..

b)â&#x201A;Źcddoublctdg.J n8s7 rull.d doubh.e4ed rurl]c. t7

s LDtsh(h..dge lhetnqfta Lr{ of lirdrd rnmd or *dhq lxr{ of fahnc,noronlyp}orc6d. rdst or ,he nJne bur ?lsorfi.cr dr $duooleofrh.lu l.i noNr[k! G sdheRdor pl.dcd I sdfr u,,hr.nd qrsr rhnh hasrh.l.d cfcd or rrr."foRr:, nm. LrGd

shrll Hm

onrrmktd [dg. Ronqr o{rro.kedEd$ng .+e

sinslc.srdtnLm. Lnltitd sidslrcdscdrun6 .51 Pufirdsingledg.drume 52

pdites d tua nu,in rufll* (sare 14" thh)tu|Jth dnrcary @h

Nors rhis chaprr b.ginsfrrh BASTCS, hdEred bya snr bhd

rppsmc

s{fl1s

trstrrpkldn

hDsc cdsr.lhuds punu !, rh. &h. r. (no!rd. one br one. rrom

r h . n o nr h . r i n s [ o n b c n n f mnrd G 5dytdgt f

douhlLd fab.

n.), n .rn bl'r th. .dBr (r ringd or doubt d rid ptrIl.d nLllt.), or ftaudir G $rin nnch.do' cor Ldu(d{ldjKd runo tr fs Edse

frhshs drPcns. ,!oid snrss.nd

row z!?a8 eDs

tu bF or 'h.

non unnnll,ngrunhdwnh.ur r snip ror.,dnuh, 1orhc.dsc. Lrncol sdrhtd rhread ri. obviors on borl,sid.sorrh. rum.rwrl, orlj

lcngl[ (Fig ] l) Arrfs.rhqiq

d{plr frinsdnm6 rm,lrostr cDiird.'r'. nrl|r,riri,!fi ,rs m,!tr o/rtrl,r't.'h. rid,rDI,rl R l., 'h. /.mq ot l/l. s,n0 t's or PJdir{,

,fti 'Jr Pr i.ft?l

Ftr 33 F6ins a sirde bb edse tinish:la) P'wte thetufltdlip as shawnlb) Fad at he tus e@ al A loldturish$rlt flo nsd$

rit4ir

ddrbhdJar'ir Doublnedn5 body h rht rlFk rumtRndhnLkio rlr huDch.d snrr o'pl.n lolds! rhc

ij,ft ol rr..pr,J,raio Icr dtu d nor edsrfinrhB or a nrap ol rlr ins tu,xmc alH$ f,nshrht A frft

LhLlms nls$ h doubhrh. run( {ip c( Lh(shp Io! a rumew rlo sid!\ (i ddubl!-L(ig.dnnd rwift N nide* horhn fs rLus

nn ed3e.aPPrePrhrfor

on rll ord rJd ndl,is b Lhr dethnioDoI rherufie! .d8t cnt llnishbgquicklynnc ronnwd

d€d nndins Lin.ro douL. ft rur. lL {nP (ng r4) Edstn H5aD bc

't|E piri.d

cdg.ol a wdrn Iab ncrum!.orulli lur6 ou,btrl ksnGnYtlrrnsPinrrhsdo6n\

soill olled. Afrfl arl)li.nioD. a

Fie 3 2. (a) stutdy ne

eatadhs

(b) snhped hi@e tinishs6hed al

whrn ,h! qr{/3r or rLc hbri. tss.dsr]'.!ilg!ol.flfflc.'h. edseis dffinrhd. Tht $nbiF

ft beNn.d{rhotrr{}Lng hndd

t6en

{rh insid. a shsh fotd

andhbri! 0r or ftknsrhsnLn. ol rh. r.bd!. pdrr uP,hL rlod ot ,

ldsdhtr vih rho';or

(Fis. r ,. :,.,

rheson.ird.l'mt qu|nr or! rum! !trh a frh8.d {+r insq*s !r,l,c 3{h{n3rht

a n,m€rfih a

rhr ar L{lsr oI rhe hb,i non rar

tns edses:(a)sinde4d@ntufte .tip (b)Dalbled@d ruttbskp b|edsrbhrng/galhahglplea|irglire

id.is!,

ro rlt Lrr ol,lr iLLll.

l-r--

.r. iodPri rris I t) orNr5

rrt ota tune st@ G) Ma.h)nelbh the drdire ta rhe skir wth 'sLt .id6 tdqethcr Eirhat tb) hantt nkh bo brdededge|olhe]ah|ngseann ba.k, at l.) ptn he bindns. tabed edse beydndthc hhhs scan h

tv *l,

'in th,cttibn td) sew th,adndrng Fiq.3 6 (a) tnrsde b.ds *M b 2 tune slnp, t6) lundd b the 6a.k tu,h a eantauredand edaes chej |fulngedgeslllxuchedinba& (d)Decatat e ta.]@ dth both ede6

\!tr,,

[Nrs lo.r Mkr]d

ro rrf

.ach'tu at (a)a eEte &9& turb, it lb)a daMcdsed tutu, b theriehl bolL'lqLd5(fLs l3)

n n P m 6 L n L \ i hi i d . r f b u

ntrtuLJdrdsr .r rhr binLlD(b 'Lqmennf lrl !,( !tritr,sdr

firdns n dtrLh!aon iur \r[n! Lr'!dhq J$ orlh h.ng 'o dr

dtbnrdir*ro1rr

(Lll. ifis J i)

\i!a'iri

Ih. r no.r

oldNhl. t0ld dla nm. \tL , d.hq $llor

i lgli€rcd inlh 'hn*ng!or.

pr$Lng r do!bL€Iold htn' uo rh.

trdt u'ollrr

r.!" o,nnrl and p(!

b n G i n o t h . r o r dt ( { f ?

tr' (5Nnr h iu{n€ \1d'h Iu Lh

1t r \!,.; s;b;;;(:.-

t lir no,shr nkht,l ,ro,rk lord

atlaErce down\' l3nn). rake aa (6nn) sfuehn tre hen atb\| hteae at tnah6nc jtst bchw the snothet,' lhn) srbr n he hen ta, I 12scn) slrptrs atuet2 stbh bdo|| h,c tun lc) pltrhe

Fis 3 la la) a'nb stnp td a shen h3n lb) Daubb lda hn zxawan.e antt ptes lc) fhe slitehtto q'ry the B|irg|heneedefuMandaradb| tl l6m); p6h t thtaDehthe )rnel h@ takJand oi h bact td) c{ry hpe avet the hen le) Pu te tread

Fs ?12 la) stniEhtstw)@ a tut na bbrabhenu apndaten@rbh

't ,-*

wh a p)nred la) staishtnibhe Men ctt cDt (c) gded Lah he

cdqe lb)zi9za9 lthd wheDth3 ,etJc-eE sdsht tud vrh a Mn reedtc aDdu)

l rd .ri

r {r!h{rtd mrs\trhoft

r0'

$inrlis

.l{tJJb!bln(l.lh..igl.

P(*(

Lqd !, LruL,h,o,

r.j,sr

.q{5 rhc:isrs rtr.hs (Jr rof

'ir

ihDAro.nâ&#x201A;Ź|ot i+r rr

I t

E i

! =

N-â&#x201A;Ź{s

1 si,sreroLdhinrnx

pr{.d Nd dtrdA. n.v {d) G) F a 316. Satrsrb@ d9n9s: (a)se\|ndturtt oEt he dt e@e tb) sewn otet an eneehnned ah{ 2iszassrbhedptIatztior tr) sewhare, ) ktded edqewth thetuastestbwarcethned aro sth sribhinq.td) se,n avetan enqelundqaskFtle'nataawrhfu stbhi@.te)s,.wnow a try, stashtsrbh,edsinsretddhen tut dk:!p.4

lrin,

1\'tlltlg.]\nLrfN,|hol'l'

th. finsr olr|I rl}(d Lound !d*h$. iLreJKi/h..dsrrs. r rhlr rrr (ris r-r6) ro Prs.d Ir Qr ,,u !$eLLh{$r(i$fod rn(h rr|Inrhri.(riB

r ri)

srNni.Lirg(F's r r0) o|'iD\: wtrhLh.(ftLnrirNo,ssidiu. $! N'h 1lt u{dre jun Dcqu*

an ov.rr@r.d .d3. requiE a nrs* o,*ro.red sdhlJry mclc 6 se c$.dg. oI i rr tu srrp iBid. ' l'dd.rcd chainof loay ftEds (Fjg.3-2r) with sriicb bsln shon.n d ld d.r r]lIad .@ge. fie erin stibhed .dsbss ddnib.d ,!d inEnaea pF ously c.n b. aupkiEd by ovslochns srrh r ssei Ik $q* rdf€ .rin|f,. n..iil.

Gerrrnro SINGLE-EDGED RUFFLE + of ftb.k virh on. hn! ldge"dp sthered b a $ora aE4 n.uuroma! md id.hen @ iht 6brr.,-Iheoppgne edle floc h

hd dthg rhe f'bnc

PRocEDtrus

9.p b 3fthjl o!r 'he seuon

it u! wh.n r beom6 rec*

L cho6r an appmprdb rnd .llktiv. .dg. finkh for fte rfile (EIer b "Edgc F tshing fq

rr. zisas srirh.d edsrdn

rh. 3ftkh Eh,l. rh. body of

Rums' onlqse4r). ro $r, sidln foi rhenfile saip,dd r $,m dloHnce b lhe cdshed ddln sl.crd loi ll. nm. ahd tndud. rllosn.6 for th. sled-

Fs.3.m (a)LdM.dsirc M a t#t\dt tb) wq sdsitg n tias.

LrclA @dxnen eagn|s tv *rss rftion of ho ine.dsins. !l. dgas 6ni5hd*dbed pF:osly Mrh i Prcc.duBrdirhrnc As[.d aqlo.k d €ds€is srich.d uti &. nsht sid. oI l]1. Lld. !p. on a ss a frIn a 3ihnrd stirh, dsh@ld rosd leP< &Eion toG $. upptr roopdrbEd @6ll ,mnd b rh. backoI rh. h6ri., totrs rhe.+.

Flg3zzFab,n3hp6aJ||6ga[t eted sinde4de.d tunh6 tua |!||bddhahdasenalbwM b6dekogdhlings@whh edge r ead 8 ftqdEd |ol fu Ch;

r. Deidc how nu.h rullnG the SarheEdromeshoulddcplrslighqDods:te, s.n.ms, u&$ sd .n .fkrrhe gsrh, sing hry.r n*uco€Dt fq rh. am. ToErimtr rh. ldgrh oI ln. rnF n.ed.d tu pnauce lne d6ir.d rulrnds h &. rum., Erldply lhe 6rgd nsslEtunr t'y rheamounr indi. edince

dldNilrix=

lr4dt x 1 {rmor)

mthins ldg'br ol rh. rum. fabdc,idendcrl in frdrh ,nd fin

. Aricndr dcc of sriF.r dn lhe sMighigEinol th. hbn. d,h rnErdsi! th. \qvc. To .xrnd ,h. lcq,h df a rum. snip,ss rhcshonedgs of fu5dP5bgethg\i'hnghl {rLe f,.ing dd eds6 m:rh. open(Iic. '2r) (ro con dnbB rff! ndp curon rh. shighrgnb, rcLr b Frg toi

arewen'|hghlangl$fubdh

(Efc ro rhe hrsd m*surme{ "6aihei3Me,nod on pasc 3), scung bside ih€ dslgDad sanline inside th. *m .Uo* arcE ro d€rr dth I lengdy ruf nc nhp g{h.rd on Pulledrftsd nitching, divide &e de. b be 3lrhd.d imo [rlvB, qu,i rE. or.iqh$s; ru rhedni sons bdk.n *cEerB !i'h

Fis 323. c6stah tuke*aB ro

Iqrde ro similar bur smeU.r

hawasfudgeedqefu'' large||fustip'dndextahb|b frnne:4elfidhqakru|||e

. Forbi,ycutsr,Fim rh€ hbric Ijrh lins fiat .rcs ln. .

.xdd rh. lcngrhdl a rfi. nnp, ss theangl.dedgs oI M5dP5egethd!i']righl sd.s fr.ih8 dd samlinE

the *rn ilowanc€ open (Fig r,r4) (Fo!a co,rinu oNru 1. nnp dr d! n\eln6, Ers 6 Fis.e 13on plge 200.) 4. Appll 'h. selededfinnh b one roig e+e dr rheromennp.

Dtsrnhr 'nEsa'necdmlr 6. Pd rn. g,rh,rededseof lheruI lle sdp ro rlc l,bd. \'hFe it r! b bc applicd;bsr dtedy ov.r lne g{h{ins nfths Machine b6idc ln. basGg/cadcnng $tcn6, hidins rll .onnndion nn.rils ard the 3afidcd $m allowana in 'n. prcc*s of

Fi!325'IoiFenafohlairlaa ,@n (a) Basb uEtufltdb tabic *1. lb) Ph ttbk 12ow he tuttb, bes@ theha.ins G)aph@r . As, hcn ru(1ctlEr lis on bp of rhehbnc 6 whichir Irom $c f,bft to whrh I is dkched For top nfis, Fis I ll on pag. i) For loi rarins *,n allowancs inchd., (l) ziszassdrhirs (Fis. 3 16); (2) c6€nne wirh , litus o! ildsibre hchs (nld b rE 4.9 on page70); G) coanng sth a d{ohlR Iacins(w thc rmc dshr nd. up b rh. wronseideoI rh. hbnc {d run rheri.ug 6 thc fron0i(4J .ds.nnc[

rumc{ips nrtd earh.nDs. auromaic sdhdns urng ft. Srdenns fool or Bm{ rhdnnor ts s hn (Referro and .rrd.nt irrfn{i.. 'Gafi"ins Mdhods'on plg. t) as gdhctus dcnir in.r66,

i ae. 323 (a)Funb*sbd b tu edsaota circtebetaEtb)edse.

M: la) s.tu ltE nne b tu ttutaE .dce'zigzaqqovefukfu@n. ab$nee ds* tb) Fuiaa han rrtrns.mnt (Fie r-27). The n@rinsals€ of ln. rumE $$t

oEilPs :covo$

ft.

appl'udon d.bils of rh€nft. bdo{ thc sRh dlolroc or rheDm€ r ln. bp ml be 5io! or ralfic Tl[ nm. r rh!

NorEs €r VARTATToN5 ,trumcofso(lnhrabnc.an b. gdh.rcdmuchnon dch+ lna! B@!a r rurncor on drebns tn& b zb6orbsarhdsr 'h{ nitching lde, a hi6-dr rumc n,y bc garhd.d nu.h FoE rshrty rhsn a rumedr o rhc sn$hqEh of rh. ene fabnc Topftduurtracdc runns a, rhenoadrscdge.r widerumenecdsughE!sadenng Rnfilt niPs mrr br g,rhsd o! rhEd nn.rd by hard or shicht q zis4g{lilchcd by hachine on. !rip! sathqedlid trsft b nod<r€ ddTry br shk. s*henng r nor ssily omrcned sth fr! nvsorsdahing.wltny &or

Fb 3.27.netedtufits 4died ta2 tu edthacd4tuni. md lqzis

sLbhhEavettheedseat th tuhteE . A, ,heedeeoI sDrrelftr ln lill b. rPPliqu€dto a toundi

(1)!rus , n'neB*n dlo{aDc (onlr rhe$:n aLlovnrt). ldmng lrqkl on &e noq (2) msh dr sun rr]owan.c,kunul,tidn uod( nEisht. :ls:aggd. or overlolkEd ldinin$ O) olgcrn.h 'rhtrsh all lry.B iftd aPPlyirurhenmq (a) or ,ry .onbimuon or n\e abwe Bulrgsm allowrnG tdnribunn undrtl) in8 limn6 ro Rpdtinons lrh b* of galnsedsinsrc.€d8.d Thes,thcd ed$ or a shsle. edsEdnft. is ndiblc. pdnnLnE .un.d ind rye Dsted appticl ctEL.oI]ngltsill{rckhd[md luil d 'henodinseds.unk$ r t garhendah ichdv r rlrc$urc. Add ldlgA b 'n. tufiL rip ro alio{ Ior rhedcn* sdh.ing .ur!.d ud anslcdapPrjGrons insid.a cun.,.irck. or rnglerulr bulgeri$ squekd tolds{ $. no:us Mgc unlc$ the srhenns n lishEDedFor. nLmcappltd g{hdin$ rora irmcsppltd bd.

rhc ends ol rufi6

rla mdrk

loo* ends The flrdsolnm6lhr nop d { cdse or rh€ {oundadon I{bi. wilrb. duehr id Lhc$m FA 83. rwo

rhe mds of ru{nc rhr ldp widin rl'.Idundarod rab.icslould rpa or &n ,nro rlr. $pktuo! sEn

na, the uppet iunb

applhdasfub|he|abicbedge

rhc lo,ring urs. dfu pd./ rii 3r(.€d3!d ljfr. disrl)4f in ' rull1cshru $nh a dorhlrd.frbri rumesdr lrtirr ro [dgc rinBhtr$ fo! Rufi6" o! rasc11) Xrh. .'lg.sdld'!n'n.nriP{cUloD

bffi6€kegalhaingedgea|ke

A nsr.,nrrr ru.t. hn . g u ing dg. rhap.d ii ascalloPPr rm carlrnng inighrns our lhe

nnlhing,h. cdss bsdherfo! s.dc.ng lr rherune 5dp L cut

{i.hhyaPPLnrion rinenn'ghr

Donlrrts$eIoLdarhrfioa.ie |dg. Af,{ sih€nng ald aPnLi'rion.pull r. rwohltE dfrheruf. neap* ropoulrh.bodyorlh. En€ (.ja 3-3t).Ruf[6lcs un f,(2 t.b) wid. frunclEeffodsr *pan.ng dr. h)rs DoublednJ. 116ot .nsp [,bir ]" (5.h) $ c dr 6drt nlf e irh th! mor bnor?n.r

loped ro rnd |l[ ilhdud| onsi nill!.ur inr rhegrhftrng.de.

(Fis r-12).rra sinsLc{l,dLrutd. n curr nddtrblcdf,b.. Gd' ro 'EdseFinishing foi Ru r.r' o! prgc{4), rh€5tu[s.ar bc pultd

hrdly pufid'll. b ftb i. Lh. pull. uck th€ spEadi,s rufil. hbnc r intrryd5 ro sch 5idcor rh. .ppl'driotrn,m ForPumnss rhr nor Nhrft ftt fodndiro! Iabic

(b)

ris. e

,!fltepat t4 strate.sndn

oP!nid3. flj'ro andb*r $ rhe

donqabdve6b6 tb) at the2ad-

wnlhednd@bhkthesbfu\' wh€n a rufr]c 6lfd d rar.d (dr ro t4e Fhishins ror Run.! on paseti), .onou!ry lne floding .d8E.a! oPdon.shilc rltc.4. sil houdlc lbh nrli3hr o a dmp.d

ourrimdmr.ngrs ed curus rt ' Lris or Iacirs G ,pprolirii't bur r shDll codourcd noRnne.dge L rrt d6ind pftnle. corbur ft g dry €d3€.w'rh.rl[ ga'j.ft3 edse ldnbmd. Lheooadngcdgt or 'he rum€sdp ntuE shighl tor ssy rPPftrion ot rhcdc'ftd .d3. {innh

{| aPdndb! orr4)..d rngt. rdg.d rujl{ n,hrcunds rh€dm nNc efid or hrllr dg.! rvo { i,oft rums. srhscd *piiard), b aYoidnsrl.d tdl& a' thl sdhered rh. orhtr \idr sarrrrd &g!5 ,nrdtdg. and iNn ro dr lourdi norug cdg.ofrheupFinft

Fie.e. (a)DaMhbrc itr. s|np.0|he'highlganan|l pLqins.lb) s@tatins thes2thercd taFE wh ttu heb d 3 dowet.

reiFi}:oadlaJfo!ltci!,ili':nll!i'j.*

4ie"-!'lr dE ! 1 ,- ri-

rr i 1! i[x ! j r4r b]..,l q.r :," rri.i/ i,iâ&#x201A;Ź-M+

,!T

I 3 ! " ( { ! ' q r . , . r l i r : 5 r Di ,

rir b d: td

!I fie !ll5

TPE'

\,LE:D:!L]

toll, fr gausr lh. nrlhbs dG. bre Ircn llt iighr cdg. or rh. sdp enh a delne on the bcd ot the $nns nkhirE Follodng

GATHERED

DoUBLE-EDGED RUFFLE

g{h{ b rhe hl8er nGurchenl (r.ki ,o .cadenns Merhodc on pasc r) To ddvd a lensfty nmt nnp ealhd.d dr pnned ,hEad nitching. diudc rh.lhc to b. $,hecd inro halvs. qurtn, d .'8h,hs; hrk rh€ dnisiom bds(n ng n.nG {nh pinsor dElk EquRr.

rnripo|hbrtFthered6a

sdbmeds4fEFadth add{nd

sarherednkhrns i the

Fb 3.36.ropsM appbran tu tuubb edeedtudtee:(a)staiihl ftnaftd a@tu.

lb) za2as

srbhine.le) sah stuchind andtd) e.o@|ift9lilchi@ew||haga|he|

PRoctDLrxrs r. choo* m rPPrcPnnca .IIc rlr rinrh rd h. flo,h8 eds* of,hc rumeEld edg.nay hlYe ,hr *ft or a dif6e finish (R.t( 0 .Eds. Fidnhinefor Rur06" oDpige 1l ) ro d{s. oinerh€dd,rr oI d. rum. nrp sc' i I'nthed rlidlh for tht rulle on s.h sid. oI rh€cmrred sdkhins linq hdud., fo! dd, nd.. rn irorEn.e fol rh. *kcGd.dge hnbh:robl nL n4surndas (Fie r rj) r .ollo{ rheprceduns ds.nbEd for .gRih.ftdsbsk{dscd nn. , n€Ps:r md |:r, on pag$ 49-j0 r AnrLrrh. *rcdrd hdh b borh ronsedss orrhcnn. snp (ft.rcd nn.hi4 rincpilh ' hbrn $r mcd,uh or a pr6*d

by *3nHr

ro rhe iargd

NoTEs& VAru{TioNs t. wirh a tabfic eit n.diuh, ru* st,ichtoldning|ins'lr(indi .aE rhe pr.rtn.n' oI &e Dfie! gatn{ed nir.hing. Foi esy a.rtr, n.y fark 0orh* lin. ro rh. 4h' rbr 'h. 4shr Edseof tht rul: ne 'o ner (u*.hrlk. di*ppor 'ng p€!. a row or p'ns or r r.n. ponry lichq F€$cd lold) Makljns $. na. b the suide rd€. 6r51irch on thr g.rr.d8 srirl'c b ibch th€ run. b llc round,don. un nEishr or apprc

s{ds bym{hinc c's r 36) u$ $. birr b,ckir.h forhind

Edscfndr, erlhcnns dr6i): hbncdundcnsics,rnd nne dinduonilry or Lh€0odiD3€dss r fie sids ol doubl.{dged ruff6 Ih€ sbndarddoubtc.dscdnft E $dertd wnh hrnd nirchjns. nrh snaightor z'3ilgg.d n&hire nrthbe saftenDsusingrh. $'hding looro!run{rb.hncnr (nltr b crhcing Mdndds dd Pascr). andir is snh€d on s nnEhr bw of nr.hins (lered bcrwcn dre DrqsdngltuE lnesbndard&ft €nru.r?rndel b No. rhe.. o! moE pdEnelrc{s olsiirching tulP7ed. $dn or t'iftd 'xj'rFinrodu.6 i d(on!!c bdd df coDrlnalfolds bdwmthe]oo*loldsEl€5eddd!

s-:,a,1

nd6 (Fi&3-r7). o,rn dddoB ,! nmc 8,,heEda lide of{fltrtr or on a srirhingrrtu dEroFE Appli.db a bundnion u& ln. garhsednirhbe shishrned out. rlr a'ning fld.

sdrhin3lnc bclotr8a'n.dnBrErdr 'o $e silhoudG oI dr. 0e!t$ eds6

Fb. 3.s7 s$*d

. sdo1, hs renzrcd sernr B

ean nrne whh

gabeh!Addefua@|a|lhe

It rh. snrhins 6 be sdhertd veE Ircm cdgcb edseblr s Cdh sed unril rh€ft.hins s sdghr, lne nofng eds* ssume shdl'lik. formrions. Pann5 Ior theBIhd ins thd prcduca i donbl.jJ'sll rufl€ hir !pd.€ oclo*d by stith. tnc ld6 Ald mrkins 'he stuInrs Iineon $e backof fte tuft n.p. 8:lh.adoubl.rhe[nmebyhsnd b reul c dr shiprs oI r]t slEus B..aus oI i6 unEual ehaoing,i doublc{hdl am€ ror b. .ri.r ro

ins fiey nesotiarc rr8hL.trRawilh unobhdve sr,fing ind squ*: hc d oppsr. .dsc. Rumcd€deE *Tloit theconud ter{ei {rd ing bandsof rofils urh rjpPliDS edg6 ind smoolnb,&grcund xrc$ A scmlledrofiI. d6isn .on toim ro . plaNed, Ep6dlg p.1( Fm of lin* rk.d on ih ngh'sid. or ln. rodnd.ron hbnc (Fig.3 r9)

Fig'3'B'Namqdauble.edgedfoL fiesercl&ira|qn|i@Mvs

Fg'341'D@ble.adeedfuMlcp. sli|tfuwih€d94bL.Jr|@lfuw @@M h6 spad a Mtuel tur highma$ednm6. mwsdr doubh{dssl ans m rop6dEhed bgeLhd$ dos.l! L\i rdjamr rur. n d dg6 arcfoNd up\2,n to nm' ,bourolc-Dmedd'h lbo{ Iounda rionlsd, bu41ngd. bpsrithedad.sa,rrftd *ins (Fig.3Jr)

An .llovd mfilc design pnEG the surfae Nirh a d.,nddbg. urpl,n!.d ipplmrion of nms

Fis.3.se.@ stith ne e0 des@

tu. 342 Dtubta4ds.n ffia bpsdch,|lhCon$*dfu@re&naE fueM|abic|it)9w|1hg3nga, ak'aledfusbfuqdephs

t6i, sathu nd he tn<kd 3n +'hs nne4Elghlens'gu|eand@nhle b ho re dnqte (b)cah1e dNbreshettufi|a.lc) ctry vedon al @. Fuhts @therent@ Petuft ld) ard le) tuve u@ht sidetffi.

shiqht d slighdy s^ts

w picviouly a@hEd rum6 o0 to the left oI the pr6d Ioo! hold $c .dg€ or i\e ddd nI ne ar€) rrofr $. nrtdt ud r ruls wbn. bpsrirchins rht nes nm. A ond rpphdton $ll nccd band

Fig3.40'Nafuvdfuble.adaedfut bl rkhn rh3 fleibiliry or doubL{4.d nmb. cnwing rherumealtG rh. nort of both€dss rhe aordng Iold5o! 'h. hid. cdct ol rh. .une ina*rt l+il. ihr foldson $c ouside cdgedeqese { 'ne nep. '1. floding ede.lo€td on rh. outr oF-. vill *rcth out md rurnuPunl.$ rh! gdharngar rh. srft tr aPr.blly lghr *lich will dus th. lullDssded€d o! rh€insideof rha.urv.6 swdlin.o buhds rolds only nno* ium6 r" O ttn) oi l.s {ion.dgc ro tdse areued ror afl. /.ri!E.

rI@d tu ]a Forrd* ffitd nr fl6, $ni+t d odiDs rc$ ordou bl}dsea rumc ar appli€db a Iound:rio!drh nodhs !dg6 rou.h bg The8'&ri.d md ropsdth.d s,s f r vdblc componctu or drc c d$isDedsurtu. (Fis.ral )

E d!'ddon. n fti rhc loundnion Gbft $LtL e tnpoFry sbbiltel

bteEd ao'bte..ds.a 14116 e

'b(kd on€o!rt 'hc drh* qfi d.! snhrnns nii.hs mdchcdj

F4ful'Layeid|l@Irgedqsso| bieht. nshq hbh abve the t@

1 put d ,]odl..cds.d 'afe mu" bc ft, andnndrd fmh doubr.drabnc $nh trnpto*rd lolds(* "Eds. F,lnhins ror Rum$, rn paser4). rkr gdhdn8 ind ,ppli.rio!. pun ,h. nd. ru[l$ bypullder|r 1iy.6 apJn{nL} b 'Iufrd singleedg.d dn. on p'gr52) v,narb!: Doubr$dgedntu qi$ ont sid. pured md lhe odE sd. ' sEnd*d, ndhe..ds.d flme (Fis 3.44).

entd rLlte t4 r@ thetu d tu d@ tb)bern sdtsry. t )ah6@r

fufud|dpultingaiqFfurnq raPq oLlin rheendsor douSlc .dgrJ flrfls fiI noP vnhin rhr Iounddionrabrn rapenrg involvc ldldins dr cid of rh. rumcsdtj on r[c {n.hing ]incdrh rjabrsids kcingud*wi[g, * lhd grad

n* ro $. drhersidtortne gnlr dtd aan Br hard, scq.rq fie 8:th.r.d qn {trh rirh6 ftlr

ld)andth daM b tafidatd bvel .

Fa34Prep6n4gafu'bl*ed@d

ro dh.h ld a fou'i!oo. lo|'ii.h n.i 6 dr ga,heEd srn rith rlrc sid. dr a zrDpdrod up .gdin rhe

r tu.ri&t 4)r. h4 lhrt. n@dns

sidea,d i nkh on rI. d'hssid.

oYcE[ wid'h oI thr rumenrjp includsrtn. rumcwidrhs. $,o { rhesidG ofonc dotrbledhbnc nr n in nr &nEr lFis r.46). Ttr noadis edaroI thc m. in rhr ftnt( G nMys on rhelold rhe Sabcnnsnam is nrchcd $iough rwolay.6 of rabricI nme! lidrh hon &.Iotd wirh th. finnhcd €dsc t.lo$ rh. sadcnd rLrching lpreadour inb sidr tufns. rh. rur.

oI$€.cnrrnmi tu.k d ruta. oploB iodud..nla€ingor dds D3 rh. $id'h o{rhc(irr ruintj sn'P.hnsi4 or Pumnsrhec{d n,m.. hd garh&irs&c cmd rum€ Nq i .od instrlt hsik ih. lold

:s!!!+!!!!ojraql|ljnddl

mrh.d e+.! rdn G. dc*s. rnd bpsurrhrorhr foundalonro hD rhc.ndofa rurnc$w thr rhds d rht siderufi$ bsnhd rdth ogd.i

oprn,pulldo*n,andri.k

_ir.!rloai4

^rq!!rs

I lt! 4.!d)

__-,/ in;a;;;

'lldrL\trLlll.fi(lnDindl

Hn'd.d,4bs

'1a I r.ded

: l

iâ&#x201A;Ź

ffi

-.-1*;,â&#x201A;Źr.

\'1.e. q4i il!

:.-t: 16 .-?i!

, , f,

PLEATEDSINGLEOR DOUBLEEDGEDRUFFLE - srip ofhbfr. redled in hnsrh ry sl*mdc roldinsaidorud wid' dkhli8 ,lons oie eds. or den de .4kin'e €dseor ed8* of i dac en rufrefdr h Esuhi oderry toldr

PRocEDtRrs r. c6e i pk{ing snrngemenr Ior li. mc Gig 3.aq) DKide wherherfte lolds wttl be pN.d z. &lkr d.dgc 6ntshL\at{ill a{{, lh. to16arfte nod ,ge6blt, o( 'I drcple6 a to bEpK.d, in €dsellirsh tnit wilLaaeptshsa cr.ig (nra b "EdgeFinishins

rllow,ncs tor the *leded t4.

Iinish:For a nneb.dg.n rufilc, Erq ,o n3. l 22 on psgeJ9: lor r doublcedscdrumq afF b ,+.Toclcula& the lmglh nqnncd tora rum. sdp plcd.dro rh. b4d nssunnmr Mzk. , lolding gau8elioE a 5hdi,nrip of paperha*€d M'n dob (l.ltn) spa , 6 aprrepddc Ioi pl.rtins dePrhand Inpl.ncnk do! rh. doB indi.at plar folds:lnc d$rr. bcNEn doB equ,lsple* d.pr\ countddE to agular plEtsprtg. Mrtchins do6. told ino ]Ic chcm rL€n m,ngcnenr Applythe follo{

shighrgnh or dler,bh., Ftcins sdir6 ro€.'n{ iI mcsry (crs 'o Fl&I2r onlege50) For, sngh .ds.d rulle, aplt &e *ldd ds. llnisho on. longt4c or&e rumesbs rorr dNble-d3ednr M,ikinsfirh r disaPp€fbg p.n or dElk o! tnc nghrdde of th. (6nn) to ,." (l rcn) ,In{, as pn pl,nn.d. slorg lne unfin ishededgeroi i single.d8€dro{. ph* rherumennp. *cuing nrthin. strhins. II the dfllr rdp it side or rh. iibht ldp, hanl to@. pin dd hind bste rhe loldsbcrorchachin. sri&h. shps oI man4€able{idrh and Eehin nitching (Fis. r-50) Fu . ptstd rumeqrh sh,QlY ds*d Iolds,Pr$ fir lolt

(top Fow unlca3ed; Bononhow P!...!d)

I-llJ l. Fiq.3.50'rofup]eabwhire n^edan|hesLpgihdEdpola

7. ro atx.h r Pleftd dnglc.cdsrd n'mcrc nd rrbn!,tddrti rhc n.n.rIhEa,orGrh5uirbtc sudrc apprr.addn(rtLr .o FiBs Pas$5o-rt) roPnidr a pleL cd doubl. .d8cd ru[]. ro (oun drion rabrn {{'n3 olq lhE rurfl€!*anLh. Mrch rhcna nli n,nrln. o. rhen8h alge oI on thc fabn. (rcfci b Fis ] 36

NoDs €- V,4fi-arroNs Bfsrh rh.QPlkdjonsan. pLeredrufis arcsrodh filn d6. .iPlinedrords,nd unddtaycre. conp,id ,o sdhercdsirrsk dsrd Prcncdsinglccdgurn ma (em. Lns'n. eme bllet e k$ bnlky At rhc nod. Pl.rkd oms rcll inb ainnsd fdld5 rhe r}?e of pt.d rtfcdsdr ddn idvrkd pleu 6 lhirc box Plear er$!r Pt.nrg ar sc'ndrs 'h{ i.a'!rt roalied fullD$-e*5

isolat.d in bdw{!

mPl&rd $sne!6 oI rh. nmt nnp<onu,$ bu6c of foldedful

Pklt d.prh b6ed on a Iotding sruge ol do6 spard !o EorE lna! , (L3on)apsirnl,rspbpdr riomuy b ndn rufne lidrhs rnd :ppLi.inds. Fd pt!i' Iomadm, Idld. rhe inn* lold an,l rhr ourr ford n,r.h Poirr of one rr€ . rnd, deu. ro Pbn ddc rumc {ipi Pa(rubrly iI lhc plt& aa ro be prEsed mnk rbe.dgt d eds$ dtn a duplicrc ot lh. do6 on rh. s€nlinq mfth all rh. nisned do6 {hn rordins and pftins sch pl€d; and bsr d lh. .dsc or cdga s scll 6 on rhe smliiE. Lo.ar

4mc, bw mesd dmcs.rnd ldd€d ruflI$,qndions d*.nbed lor g{tund fgr.- Dd dable. cds.d run€ pttuin o p1.a€drul n$ 6wdl. Forappli.ario.s dmr rtqune quandrrs of Plc&d rurn6. u$lltn fldi(rthrcnrrd.onveft nme nnps ,nro aronaftrllt klirFplered ,nd nRishr srdrd iinsl. or ddubre.edsed .urn6 sinph sdju$nmr .hrn$ rh. duchnetu Ircm cdluing b p1.d ing modearl rcsulat thr $pail

'ne Lbnc. Fns lighrry b hdrd rh. .dge d! eds$, and n€mr pi.s rholougblyrd prodtr&a rumewirh qnp rolds(donrrnovruDril.ool d dr}) ro @inhh llt inrgtuy otlh. toldr,ippl) arased. Plar e,:lruIfl. ro rhc lounddid! i a Likt sdheBl rufil$. epDlt, doDsoluipft sed Pl€red ru{n6 bg will aftpr sEcefutl]l The folds or s mrc! bdviiEn.d Pr'4 ,uj[. or nrllld

or allo!* nfil. lrcn(B

lnldedbdxp]abdfuflbabmbly iEitu as r n@h@

n iaht curc.

Fb. 3.@. fhs tufle. a ge\9i@

-i =.

.:t=; 4€-

( MahingFlounces R4nrlra

CTRCULAR

FLouNcE

lh. dudng

Ri?i,6 ojn .@ins ndrdtr oI /

inne4!ho@* edge.TheronsEt edgendth9v*hdfo&'

PRocEDURES cnd,njnda-'he

nEi+r

dNde

2, choo* beseo a nource firh narcss .onnolledby rhe€dius or th€ rcund cu6ut in th€ oid' md rht hnglh ol rlr flouna . Thc smuu lhc ndius of rh.

cmeslcurout. rhesnrr rhe Diond'-any

n€i8hr Liie

Fig+lciblsdi!@inbh|eei@ cu@ bat hecffi4 thetuttdened edseat he raw

rhe,li{rnnce beNrtn rh. .n ofrheloanng.dgth.rsa,

funlbalCina|cu@a|i1fu14' ro slun. a llouc, smpL In. cfid of &nrEr cdou6 6n nry 'hesn. in d.pdrandshghkn€d hng'n fieappli€rim sn I Tod6ft a d(uLr noun( psc

b, mdiG olrheou inedcii cks (G) in F8. 4'3).cut our the cinhr noun.. p{rcn 4. ro srin{e rhe febncnquin ne ror a Prdcurar cirdhr noun . applidddn (Fis +4):

nen6, oncIor rh. n&!! oI lne ..nkl cnde and : *cond tor

3urehenr(a) in Fis +r) addi4 ' Ee6llnsr for flounc neFr b lne r4lius. s.ond lidE ouEideftc liBl

dEw a sml€r cirte ffid. ft onh.ircl. Toinclude s hen allovsic ldr a frllh aPPriebrcJoI cunj4 cdgr (d* ro .rds. FinisLinsIor Rums" on pagt4]). Enr{se R"b'applfufuMnred6ek.db dfunganngffifitand|tglclrcwn

c:LculaE rc l.nclh ot ft cir .urar fnrine on the Pdrem:

ja,shr nir.h rltr guL,rcriNr

Fis.I 5 Ftmh sear ta) Mh tb) rin theseanatavrc n,axb hesean t )Fotdhsntusm, funireid'ul||ih|ighl9d8lrylh'

our|nrcLoq,! ,h! sift oP.ni!: qnl]rh'Fi]d'htrL.n{t$

Faudt sean: td) wih r shl s das toh6d and sew the :lnchina tines

. nou(

Fitr {id, ! ar6ihr.

]fuNngo|'htn6rig.dgld

nhnd

sdn abB

cd 0 open

edq$lbhnenbbelddalsan

(F1g+ 6) .oDRr rhr nouc!

.lE'edb*ailh|en|U|heap'Ea'

Fis.I 7 ra apet a laune ta a tD6 datbn ta) wh* rcrc af tatnes tbunceieht s@ q tb) sewa rotnce @ se up'nd nb t ove' b *an dowhcc b) sew nshl

.,lses,bosk rhc0oume,dghr sidetrp,ro l!. nght snL orfib iic #t. wift dehLsid6 rq.ln. q pi! bbn. .2 Ns bolhand suv rriFuehanhYG !q' 'o Mnd cdseoI rxbn.*z o!{ n@!.. .nd dgErirch rhmusn

s€se he 4F\ n.oa a 6 ^ary l.) tabti, etur*n \cn krc@ anid/ \,

I*n. to which it G la.bed scs a facin8, ngh nd. doq,

lacins to lnE bi.k 0f the fab' ric dd lb. nou..e nshr 5ide

Fig'4lh+@.epMfu|a|a the tuthE (a)attd tud1tudins tbum b kbto 81,M ptntdbtu *2 ed bothwtthdqhtstu bgetha4 d (c)ph amtsde$ttdh thelutu ed@d|26fuPove|d]*dm

sidc dM,

ovcr rh. lbm ol a

.In:h.frtdtnent {d Bind rheldge whena floune lts on top ol dr rabncb wnich itn nkch.d 9.w a mrc{ ddc down,ovF 'ne uounc.l rm rhelindrngovd sll $,o JloNbes rotheb{k. rnd *e fsbncunderd* nounc

NorEs & VARIATIoN5

[Nrc L mNdnrLy chaiging, i noun( ippljetro! lEds gninline b8lin€il E 'o hang&c eoe rdY on.ithqsful.oficmd|PdiilPh( rhe ni,ghleub ol r nru(. in tlt

tu. biai of &. noune in tu anrs. Fn ltom.6 snpli.dh fttrldph Ldg rcws dd muldpl. dc oI oounc.sGquR $c chrinins bgcdt s ofm,iv rhl6 Forshqt sws or floufts frrh nodeof b tum.l nrq . *gnnt ol tu entiE cidlar fldna Pakn my ]le :ll Lha'! naded Ior oft roq To balane 'llc sEiilin. on all roE Dd $v. m hb. ft s {dl, ,lisn thc *sm.ns i! io\s on 'h€ rabhcwhm ouhg dr

A circuh noune go.aE ndt hg rdln6 by m@ulag,ngn,n, ,nd dc n {fthdt bltrig trprht *:m line Th. citulrhty ind dcpd oI 'ne flouE. pdtn, rhehbd. @mpd mnq ind $. olse ffdh Et ftlRt oidnal wYds d 6e luins .dgc.bura smoothb{ oI noun.c hbnc 4 th. sanlin. B, toBknr.

Fb 41o cdire sutuehat rcpeaE

fN{qD'd{â&#x201A;Ź*olippldbq

rt p.'l|+l) | hrh d$orrh.

\rh, r num( \ lrtrsrNtiu {an h hor rin6h,hecdset0

i Nr,r bdf! md mn. rictorl

.rrdo /rourdb&ub

]nftdul$5ndsddjdJ''3lug

lounc iFid. ar rHd

a$!

lFig 4 r2) rf Lhl dsi

or L(\!dr

r$5n

d.prhorrLrcfoufr rprr Glisl,rLi ((h) tr' [3

{f2)

dipptrBll(

5qn

((O h ris + 1.1). slishL du!h,hr

f t

Afretlnishlneths lsrre edeedus

(râ&#x201A;Ź I xn s.! rk Lnuat 'hr lE{oc rsEs

ri+, i

. o(r irFl

(2t rrr re\5 o{ noun$ ue loo

1|q([ioidtlnrl0u((qljJ

Fie 4.s L) rwo.ndat torn.a s,ewrbseths lb) aDda?Pte wth .{ a r4}o(d io,,bJ( .,lgnr .rtr la,,ldn!(.1!{!

nr[{

^ r,,,r. dsar.tu ,h lr. d(

arot0'0(

'rr|lfus

qPrad !4c of dE nouc

!]) rorLl

beLo\:

rl,! 5!ntnn.s or

6 onr i .]hr( .r (a Ll'!,rp

.r.:rr i n|a

i! i,r

CoNTRoLLED

FLouNcE

PRCJcEDUtE5

Fe. I 13 ta) ra,sel Pabn wth tires ind.atirs tad tdrore @)lashed zrd equdry spread lc) Frat p.tdn

ld) cqta@

tome hade ttan

Lonihâ&#x201A;Ź{Jj'L[!!d4.f

rl,. i!{o ! r0\.m(| ha Ddr

- \ -

ha $t he lasredindsirtad hb

ir rr|5 r r3 + ro.iid

I s slrl involeG inlom.d guca rclk Paddd.E lor tlE qid.dine fi {ill prcdua dishr nppLs, node€k w!v6. or lavBi Iolds i! r dr flodrs .dg. ,ie .{n$sd vholc lot. c, r sln.hhriHln sonsh4e in berw{n addiion rlly, rh. chanden{ns of thc inknd.d f1btu .nd dr finnh applid ro rh. no:dns.+.lill afccr rh€ rypEErc dI iny sn'ounr ot flared rulln6! Id bdoi€ final. nins a lonhll.d flonn.e pdtfr nounc afrer it is appli.d, rlmgc lh. fl:nns n lnr noiing dse io Efl<r $. inrcn'idnsoI rhcpnkr {hiL rhc flounce n han8ine. dr drau..ndpi! b a nrsu kt

Lik chuhi 00urc6. confrnd foun.6 rnayte ldrd.d (*d or Applyrhc$lecEd Iinishb $e

Nolfs €. VAR,ATToN5

Finislrhgl.r fum.d,on pict 4:]J, hurif rhenoune is l.ng ry lron

nounccwonrNork,acorhlled

alEr$. ndunc L ,ppltd Ld n hrng lor 1t houE b allo! rhe podoN lo.atd m the bus b drcoPs.dh n dm\

md d'm

t. s.q the flounceb nd hbrn, *h.ft lhc piurn hdlats b l.t rhc nounft *anline nfth the (d) h Fiss +r3.4rs. +20). E nounc in r nann( 1Prrc. pnde for rh. lppltidon Gdd 'd F1g!.r'7. 4 3, and r 9 on

olr ptrricuLr applioibn unns ihe slshrDd.prtd €.hniquc of patrr dncLdph?m.i connolled nounrccn bc!*irbly nrEd dth drtp loL'lslor onep:n of rh. noit in8 €4e and delilde nppl.s cke {hd. wnh a onhlbd nouncc, hrd to spdfic l]ordoc oI 'h. b.rwmn noari*edserh. sparins rceul.trY|A conhll.d floun.ecan b. devi*d 6 hll wih equ,l n,n

oI th. dlhd) and/.rrk{ds.d (tuo nounfts fisnns our b dresid6

--^-

\/"---\-

-".\

J MahingGode* L{1ll<rh. pdcn, fim nr wrcnesid.oI r rabic$$

Goorr obioun.ed

3cd4l-

sedon ot

Hmdhfthi.f cdgt .............31

gdin, dr m& dt dly on tlrc

the foedis edse r ttli p re. A

rlonrh.poinron rh€*n.

PRocEDURES l For ech sodd, shd . poinr icide tnepdh or 'ne labnc $h.n fi. CddaMII b.gtn i6 srnd. The dndne fmn poinr to lo{s .dsc .quelsthc lmgh or $. god.r aid inclld6 , h€m . lt ll.I ic b uBemca, connd sch point b the lower €dgefr'hasftjghtsb+lh. pclpcidtu|iib&ccdgt,

lowq .dgc lbr sodd i6€don r. udns a l)Ebtud or srdg .omprs nt ro tf,. lmglh ol Gc sond. drslt the so,ld p*tem. .ircle. Esdhac how hu.h 0f dr .imnfercnccrh. goddshould addro dr algc whcE tr trll bE inined rc achrd. rh. dairtd

snaishtlb6. EbHGbEg 'L wtd'h or lnc godd at ln. low .'lse (nor thd sld hnrnin8 th.ddrL dlloauEeE. {ba 16). Add, ah ,lldw ina ro th. {nl8hr sids ol ihr .ftulnscgmbl ((cJ s (d) in Fis. 5 l). Thep*Em is Eady ro

lb) sen qenirs, kb dtich (c)

3. Curour llc sodd f@n &r'i. lolobs ft. pd.d of .he parm or ic turtd ddin . Irr c@ts ais of a sodetis slwels mrhcd b ln. nFrghqrain of fte Lbric. on ft. goddl vbng ddE,ryk 6e poinr sLc lh. sid. rannn6 mer ar rhedp. the sid! sntinB

angl. f6n th. lqs edse ro th. SDdetlp.dt d Bch sideot rh. slshlim ltund (7.t.n) squueor olE|ea

5 u.u.

. Inb a 5€a oF€ned6 sodd bng'nwi'nnghdd6 toS.thq and .dse nrtchjng, ph E*ch dr |astnncf, oI ll. sb ,b.r fte op.nh8 ro rhepoim ol rh. godd, ,!d ph oe sidcot dc god.r b on std. of lh. op.nin& ses dr! lowr eds., bscksdrhbg { rh. polnl Arkh rheo$d sidcot lne godd b lhe oth( sideof dc op.ni4 wh.n frnGh€d,fte brcrk b.N.m rhegodcrslu ald th. sn abov.shotrldb. tnpftAdbl.

((a)andO) in ru. t 1)

b. slill trp @ lh. honanbl stircl 3t rh. poinr. Rend. rh. bctinsipull dr ninforciq nu.r b the b€ck;

,llo*mQ. Mrh nght std6 63.thq])inmgthdr.

porh!of rle ErntodnS fte squrE, nrchin. snGn

sm b th. goddl point.

sw down fte o$s sid. ro

andbGG onesid. oI fie god.r b dr dd. dl &. op.tus!pbddbdn &. oths sid. of fie soAd b dhh ,nd @* lh. bas! ing {(c) rM (d) in Fi& t 3) rrc $. god.rbs.m auow.nc. bwlrd fte frhnc 4 ln. 6p of 'h. sddd. ,$out y (2.rcn) 6 2" (5d) b.td Ac pdbt, dtp op@ (d Dd c) i! Fis. 5-3). sodd md rL f,bn. on rhc sid.s.

NorEs 6 V,4Ri,{TIoNs alrhoqh dingukr god.c ,r Eul. godeGa wide 6 r nru cirle .nd 6 lar8ea a tull orre {e I*i bl. wh.n .xcQdonilly ltrsh,ltu wid. s'a.r oI labric with $fffci@t Uy b nmd o$ and dwry fFh nddng .ds. s L prcj{c u.l6 fie lor{ .(l3. is eron3dedwho dr sodd E ddsld (Ftg.t4). lflhdgodd t wld. andlong, brne dMppliotioD ror 1+hdE b.fon L.minc to alow fte lt6 oI rle &bric b enl. lI fte hbdc te eii andloosrryMYa &e eodd is lhbL b $s lron i6 satr u.l6 alov.d & sftGh out h€torcln*! don rLry tn. sodd rloE Ib p.br for 2,+ho!6 bdor sdng tnb th. aIF bitlubs ln. oqaneo<Ld wltd pLdg , hd ftrtudt fdr sod.6, bBidd lh. d.se of cuse at fte ll@dns edsdoI fi. o{ th. lib' soda de che.tsttu n.. and thz .fd dI m .ds. finish on dr. swe.poI fie no*. "EdAe hrshjls rE Run6' @ page4l dc.nb6 p6{biXc: Fd Llc. sle sodes.dd b thse choicc a de.pq,sinsl old flar hn,6€d .rclnd rheoft, p.rh.p6 Mth ' slbbte srill:tue l,id iGid. rhe rhe hndlzt ^i4.de. B panlir to sod€6.!t s@ E a squd, !$illy or lrgh., d.lidt r.nric. on comft or the qure b{on6 rhe poi ol th. sod.q.:ch sideo{ the q@re .qu'b rheld$h oI ft. gddet.Fdi so sid6 dr th. squre, $l.cr sn .ds. tDish ihsr lsvoF a sofi,nuidno.r (F8.5-5).Afrer A. squd l(F3 to r floatinspobt

*lIâ&#x201A;Źre

golld. on. h,lf rhr hbdtd

'hc sdn JFE Gis t0) Al'ludr J nod{ sodd iumlida rurng rod{rhe pftdutrs. r hsx dd strusc Borhndc ota mocLt sodd tJll oo thc bhs or th( rabrn. Ihl!.Ir nq h{siq b !4 Ituh 'h.

the pdht at a skh, @)nave the slashkredhelowgellge'il (b) tMte the setun* tude

F'955'squa|egafu|c|eal$2 handk'chb|edqerhefufuE.t

Fb 5.s. a ctu 2'nack sa'tet Ftuth nr *Rnlrns

lxiihe .!xr ItuE lhe

dde l.) tn&dt6 the paht whetea

u!l1hlPcd5l,5hP$nrirsnMn poi

brr plic bddrslishmJ rmli,$ on dircor slrn6 Aodd sd{ring rris.p.on (rrg i6) arl,.d.ubu, add rcundhs dr Poi ol rrr sodd rqmrLas r{ aaD arLo\2n..-s r dr! rdp, bur rt5d is i dnririvt

h{nR of'ht h!!.

tun. dh! lodd oPfl,i"ss d rhr aunNs bN:rd Ni pa !n6 ifr. sl,npsr sqld hh,j. lion slidrng btliirl rhe i6{do! rdrs (rig 5j)

needd6e dirpns to acemndate eaet hsetlifi fhe bundedth al

c.l:aT9

Systematic Folding

$ Pleating . Hmd-Fo@.d Aaonlion PrtsingPrlats............ 39 sehmins Fkr .nd hd.l . MiniA(ordronPledns... lll fleG .... . .......... .............s0 . (nife Pl.tu . Bd Pls6

Pl6r bpnikhinc . ......... 9, pka.ng . .......... ........ 9,t unddlays.......... .....94 PeiL.rP1a8.... .............94

. IIF+Fold rnd a{r.Fold

. Rorrb{kcdddce Pl46 r carridc. Pkac... ............r03 Prc@dursfor b4 Pinch,

PRrssNc hEAr5

Nor6 & \'.riarioB... .. . ....112

Prcclduro...... .......... . .. . S1

' se.In Pl.a6 .'.''.'.''.''',','',','',s3

PLEATBAsrcs

6€ntid toor sonerrmB het, nsn, rnd prG$r iE 6 muchs psi dl plar prpennon * n*dle md rhnd ai othd dna, 3rahbs rinishd 'n. Jdb,Pr6dins I dErul am'sm.nL dI EUins rotds. Thc! mon ro pEdry rh. toltls oI n't plnial ])leb db dElP, lsrins"nd .Ma dranpDpd $hs df dE coturs on r rbh. Aftq hsdns lh. plar amnsmenr, , gdde prusing d,h 5ten nek6 $. pE, lmhly c6a For fi. ffnrl hsrd pr6h3. s bud sud,e i5 doE .m.idt fo! tal!. apptodons ftd N..dlefom.d plc,rins .ns $e ffiw surtc of r nguLr hin8 bqd. PhpaEa abl. ropMd1 elefuqg',..'.'.'''''',','',',tt3p./r,-g-hy6 of btihk r d brels covmd \1lh shding, undqDrd sirh dutuun roir.lI sing i ngure rDrins bofld. hick ir w ssii${ i hbl. or ch.n ro strppd @fisns ToeE[ihPrinting.rnN. ,[ piE,nd b3sds lnEds frcd rhe fi6i snup of plac b b. p6ed. Aense rh* pleib d! lnr

ertridSrPlE6................101 cobtetplas.. .. . ..........106

'dshrnins. and,rEnlry into c .oftr

s.h.rddge Ple6........107 Dur.d .inddg. pl.aB .. r07

Nob rhis ch,prr bqrB vith B,ASI(J,hdietd by r graybmd loskd undqEdr d. nl.v.nr

posirion. To pnYEll th!

oucr roldsrioE revins ,n rnpn., i! on dc r,bic benuth, phrt r sdD orhrcm !sp.i .!t slishrr vidd rbn Prar dcprf,dd lohgd ih:n plst r.ngr\ iBide rhennd*, lold of dch pl€L b herEed

tum 'h.Irbn. to r]t o1h{3i

p($ ddh '!Lo x soluriondoar

( rl[rLerG Dddnr on top

unpE$edpllrb, Ng t]t foldsh'o hxngiIg.oi,iEn8c'h.foldswl'iL€ phd,g rh€€ds$ ro x P.dd.d Load iab pLnn'ngraclor rolds,ir !ed!r( sddc t]t xEo8cmdtr b! Novd sloq4laborc'h. sunmcd nE Iabln Aro{ ro cool rnd drr

HfMMiNG F!,4T I

P,4nrrArPrE4rs whci rrl!:hs lmgdrv 6bnc, Gbn. .rc al\qs snuiEd mobh' sivdr uDle$rb.xppln{on rnd I l.dilB ednBtn.ir nmkeir uDrvonLibr.,Nc rosr joinie ronnirr nn PhaG,plRrtjoinins ssn dn rsu Iolds,or cmrtEd Rndfdi,l pldr prt{m piobl.ix ! r! hmoi8 th.n .n s! oprionr$h.nndlfsu, rh.*ao rlto{rie (l) Pre$thchnlrft,ld {an rlloNrnc opcDand nr Im'n rh. loN( eds.h,hc d.pd oLrlr hcn Iur up Lh. h.n andnith. ofrh. h€mro treeit rromcdnhtr. (2) lkn, s.h ptce oI trbri! ft{. 'lD*Ns€I!(sbge'hei

on ro rht n.xt sroup oI pl€u.

mrchhs 'h. h.n ldlds.srdr Fom 'h. plg,s Nrh ihcjoi,rins h disn.d ro in i,rs rold Inn rht *nn allolanesdLsddrur

{r0.t0n) long, to tFund fte Iolds

b cdL.dgcottu *nrllownrs rlr dqnh oI rhehem(Fis 6 z)

!tus ir our,aDd5prsd'h. drfrp .ldh

'hr pk$.

Pi.$ widr a

hor ron und rn! dol|l tsdry hollins rh! ilon ftnl) h plac to 5$J n$m dN! 'hou8h 'h. rolds

Lhcycool \14rco,ll rht Pl.ac hav.

rh a{ d ifipdrh!

hsh

fLA T TLEAIS

E-ilri lRersb"PhaPrcis

on Palee0)

Fit 6 3 la)Anatnnr at a tat Dteat tb) rwes at ibt prats.Aran@nenE

.ea .^d tb) dip abave he hen.

i.rrs, 'h.r pl{6 \l,fr hnrirc r'r,rtroa q! i| run ir! lil) L tr.n 'r'fr iacddr LlL. fhrs L ! i n L n L dh n

iin

rhn Llffhrj

D) o rttr.ilir Lh! rlNu

q,f rdiar.rr.01,rn

adjalor pLlaGLoguD , eu

dr d6ieirl

Fb 64 ta) rwa ba' da6 srh aDtetandhn{ rattuede*tfthed tb) tnvetuddeal withBtaasepaht bM lc) tuite pteab k rcteasâ&#x201A;Źpainb tawetedtndsidy

rl.A!

poN'

oIlh. ri nn. told {!h pltr

lirlr rosdhrL

b.'!.k (ri)

Mo larc!.1hbf.

'lnD,lr

sid. rd ph (Ndr 'h{ r

5urlgNdgrj'nf,[uout' {!h pler (hE DW rold L a o odd B!Bi' Eil, 5lisordip

btr\*o'|dldsdplkdi.Nllnts

soirdivo (t rr rrs 6t

nn.h l.nldN ((b) r Fis 6 u Fs. 61 Fenonde pbd natkhgs la) td tulet tatds,btukertihestd ptacnent ha

lb) Fd nteed platshs

Noffs

[nr.

a a.nent tha tusted losethet lb) hEred ptealeentetedand ptnred ahel r) badins the taa hes toselhetznd b

â&#x201A;Źt VARTATTcJN5

box ,i

DwFd ohr!{.

pl.rc 6Pleic lt

ir i!o) d{P

," (r i.n) n,drlftf

(ar

ror lrh.orci loLd)\rh.irr naLh ('h! mn{ rold) dtd{ma

'a{ 0 sm) t@n ttu tdlts thrctsh pain|'andlh|aughfua]ayx|a .@se the pte'l tde penaDedt d snn

bd[

(Rdf

xrnDlrs

qq\!r

tl|f

n, | $'Ds tsh,

f1)ldfli. h.n nro rh. fioarns

(d, rkarroLd. o) F,rs+rir.h (.1)E(itssrrl,Lun 'ht tup

d'!i P{hal Plcdi u, p!3. sol mcs as h,d lrtr oe ti!:r of .s cltD'oo

(( L b

shhiif,trg

Grturedsfuhtri{ oo prBr6

rnD'kngrhr{,

sndurus rlfr si. \[h ,hc\mull d oDrop(.i* 6 tol Do,blrtldi lIPh'rlls'!341,|sLl(LLLIIlol

hon:onhLro\s otpl?,nor tanq lo|(ncLrb( (Iin 6trr) ro prcvon

UnI.,lar'L ov .lEnseir dr hLflt !i'H. r Lhrbrd! or h\ {trJ b4(o

idF(r

Dftr fold5

fs-rr+i,srh| t h'i! Db h! lorL.r,hd sol {!ord ,hnd df

plurds \nL 6'n codi,uou' pLlia

,\klL hpnnfnDs. .nn r]I ta! olrh. rMsloLds (nod

ldN{o

rt" (^.nn 22" (56on) drli 163lu) lnlLl' ol i plctr( n,i's rh. Mdrh olrrhL,n f lrD qr\c pla, dt|Lhbr'r'(Lod q 111" o 5.n) \fnr,n 'hR rtrnrdi$.

F96.9Dhgara]t@lleh|ngha|

Dolrhdo,,i/.drkdlrlglrro

Fa611|,ahEde|lFfublh

rrt Pd ter rhdq

r a 5iiPh

lo{ pktrB No a kns,h ofhhr. N n h o uP l i o ] D a n d r gr | j f l f i A

Fig6laexp]ealswrhlhelwa fupled'andpba|dephsslaqgered'

t t

E :

h--a

PARTIAL PLEATS

b<nve.npl.it (pl.rt,l.pfi

pls

qrrced.ild61ftd) (r) tngrh or p.inB.There ,rc eo kbds of Pdia

edg. ({) r.ngd oI i dd lloE

rnr€ or bd p *E rorm.d b/ kwin8 spe.hllr dBrsisd ple* sen riotr roedheii Inve*ed p sE Iom8d by ss is uidtrL:}s beeeen 5pa.1 y dsiqnedple! *ctio6

Ad,l r $onl pd(.d rohn md( lay tb:t dupliln6 tu und.dold .rEEid al dr sid6 or adjoinn'e pler *.dons ((t) in Fie 6ll) (l) D€fi e panrn ro! th. shap.

d,gh y longd.nd muchwidd $rn rh€ cltour 5h,p., 'mo an dfknil], bo:, or 'iEqS.nc irvtrtrd plrib (3) PGirion the rtrroutovd $c told€dplerE,

PRocEDUREs

oFn ind pmdl Iol'rins guid& (Fig.6 r4). Avoidlo.idng pler un,l.t{olds bo dd* ro thc sid6

En,blish the folowhs s6urc

(.)

(t) cur s n$rpld{dtus requircd,curhg abund theou! lirE oI 'hep,,rn or lolLqin3 a rm.inedf & patrcn.(2) Mln 4ht sid6 h.ins. 5N 'hc pl6' dioE bgei\{ oP.n xnd sprad our o) M6uic 'lrc dePth ors.h pt€r rolsrc : mdch wh.n foldingmd uniry se Dleb in $e d6iEd rlfrrton lzsE sch pkd dibugh sll la]es (4) Ar,$ t[ppng sn' a[ov@.6 blrtrLsepoi'6.Pr6lhc sim sl(Mnc6 lbsr ln. Plst qresioc opcnand[aL Itrshtlr PEs ln. pl.r' rards(Fig 6 r5).

(b)

Fis.6n3 la) PaM tora Bdiatl'..at at bax+teatmdenfu. @)Patun td m invetudpreatunddtayuDtdupt

rr Nm loll!\Lrsr! qtrLDr

NoIIs

â&#x201A;Źt VATiJIT]o\5

0 ar! or rfr

nta a cttort tseeFs 611tat lhe

rLPlord

(tr5

nirgs .h9s'nlhas,ry of Lh! oi&ls(rois

&Ddnr(Lr

{d] P|d !\LtDsjdi llrB d ]!)

h]D.\ronsnJ. ur hx{.,lr

ltr urd.{o

d' ?Lrcidf fuudDn ri Ll

l!.1

i {

r,j

PLr.A.Ts

PRocTDUREs FoRBor. PrNcH,PiPr Olt6aN, AND ROIA/1CK

C,{RTRD6E PrrArs

lLerld13{L.L!dud]rLlL!tr]P

rdrc.rprr5,r!sliLq

(r) For s.h pLta flaren rh!

-.'l'

(2) rops'n.r straishr:m$ rh. h,* dr lht p1d {h.c inEp.itu ry *R,n ods, o. hcr 'h. mil( toldsb fte lrb!. b.hind xnh

Fi1.6.2dla) t@dins tu'ted tu @h$a|hesilao|echp14| atawm. (b)senln$ dtugd tue9thets6N 'tq i6t atu he

b. ol, ft ngh sidcorlhc 6hn!, dnide rehudhs nrd$ 'l'! bp Db pl.{ allo{R,resscna rukrl by spr.6 bdw..f pl€*

b.r rlr plcxruid{folds virh hllrd endrhs iridble o! 'dp (r) Ftr alh p1.a,diidc thc

lin6 ontnhersideoIu.h p{rl.l,h.lold

(2) Pushins'h.

c{rD& nnLgl,tilNn toN dr ,opro Rpointnishnyrb0! $r lo{s .dgcot rhe|kn hadrog tqnal plers. rq! on .nhd itl. ofineCdc[Plgtd.lmcdbylhe |jlB n' dr.lop.dsc, radi the loldtd smngan.nl ro tht Pdn.

clvlhthtIl8hlsiltdlsjd.. s?mlin.s on lnhr5id. df och pldallo\d& rogdhs

or Lhcrhr.c phic b.Iorc rcnoe iq8 Lht pins. G) Ai tu b*q sr.ur rl[ lbldin8 rilh nuchhr nrchjns Lharro$! <h1ghrour

rhr loldsrhar\ill beerucrcd hb Prei&'he Pki,s pt@t: (d) erd be seIndary sean lb) Re.brd h. pteat atta@rce, cs

{l) Forach pkRr.suhdivide

em o ln. frrrchcddd {olds, or hand h.k r lolds ksdh.r

ldngr! rtul prnlkl ro, rh. pn

(2) collapi. Lh! phd allqsrtq crrlng 'h. *.oidr\ *an'

Fp dse. ucr thc LwosJFs rsdhr G) ceruEg 'h. loo* nikhir8 nnislr (ro'r all rolds inia th€e pbats ad Enaw he pins.lc) ptaatina at ld) hand ta.l 2t the x pasron.

la) Estabtitha pn s8n lb) k dd

'ng t fr$ polysE ffb.lffl|, or i"*n inb rh. pltd an$ruc a rclLot ado[ht or odd sll|.iins Ite. u.k dE qlildr. at rLcrop rnd bs.. b 'ht rabncb.hird ir Fis 624 ra tm a taut.dd pir* pteat:ta) centu aN hnon thdphartad creaseat he sides.tb) fuh 'rE sde cBA hstdab k3 qimry ean t be bas at bP Ph-w 6 @t^a^d

ddeIninrrysam(Fc 6 26)

Fig6.^t"awedqdrp|@6'

,,_i

{l).u@chPkr( h,gccu* 'hnds,ndk rhcL\iid dlBr b lnE

,4b b@ heqer

pbeE dnd 4.o,e

ba nnr t ) td.r dt D4

at Fa -

fi{ pann.l &r s€4 (2) Holdins nn uP*hr, oll:p6e rh. pkii

( I ) Fol .ich plEt, 0!&n rhc

corr pld h rh. rop.4q hck e rro inns rbrdsre&. ptur) ssn. Fis{

'nl ebrr foLl ro rh. pnmry rtam. ['ng{ q4* thc rNo nev (2) Psh 4.h of rh. side q66 .rarinc tour .qual-si-d ple6

ct!€

il lotds bdoft

remvins rh. pins o) Ar theba*, haDds.k rhmugl ,n $ne pl€a6, ddbs rhctoldol $e 3mlbr plet d ,ir€@Er (r) runins rh. loldsof ln. dd€Pla6 dosr b lne hednr& b& a.h ouEr lold rorhepdmry san ard.

dn.hinc r]]c0ngd{n6.d 6E ro rhePin.*am.Fingc Pns tu ,qy roldsd dredd6. (3) tuDor dc Pns,rr6ng No inrrio. pteb rrh rom I suPpodfd! 'h€dde q'<ior pld trhnh .unts a6und foldsol dr strftundiq Pr€dro

$de {olds b rh. pim,rji €m. F,ncs prt* ,he Dewourr tokls (r) s€dr E d.{nbed Ior rhe

(l) Foi ah pleq dili lc Gc lold

Mrh x b{ orPiG ${ p*a[.] ft! {old. c) PBh fic Pin-sm doM @$e Pnnary s.d, sPloding rhc pratr a]loNad.s bdR.n lni Pi!*rm dd d. Pnmlry sn dr ro 'he sjds. Thr Pl.r6 rom.d ar &. nd5 dll be Nrr s ddp 6 $e

sean, tnd tb) stand the pteatrhih E.tab@ be @ ateatatbwarc lc) FemE the DLa tdt the s!tuc eat dnutu b thc tuad,o aad stEr6 he oubt tdrs besitu tu tha' sean.

nid'h spi.c Thelm31hof th. ,fthd hbrn bâ&#x201A;Źtur! 'h.

t. rbnh lne n6'dg rdgr of rhc lngk rold hon. To h3ru, 4rch LrInwEbaredor'g'.Jn']'.rt.

l, IsdD,e dr hbt. ftqrtE

b,a of ach pla' b 'h. rabrt

Norls & VAxL{TroNs con,parinsrhr prcj(rng rleas snul.bo: pl.ebrn $.1.*r ,limensionrlNilh doubledboi

prc$nr 1hc hny it doelr spaced. Rdlbr.kdnii'lg.plu6.whnh look like snall. rsr. pipeo,Ean

pns.d or unp'sed orions. pro. j.dingpr.,r hLrunnEsedfton rh. spnid ol rh. folds,rg rd $rckc r lol(Gbdq(D h.adins rnd heminlo flo{iru rcsdarnr gou 'ne anngene

pls6 oD hc dplcd Ior laish Iull. o$ h 'hc hrnshc fabri. b.lo{ rhc j.crins plcb sn bc .oDbinedin rhesme h.a,linsro Er) d. nrucd.pdloL lh. lotdsnl.adb)

kEPddli\

loo$ly wappedan,l pinled rcund thehmglglJbdcs6Ewhd

orsan pLca6oar Dccda,ldiioul hlkins x' 'hc rop. b$id. rhe prima' q {Rn rc pbem 'h. pl!-r' Iorm ion f,on flopprlg loflad or Mb blhs froo sid. ro sjde Fjns,PEs '4 rd iqtr!8 lne 5hcMd Iolds $rd6 $rt da'gdndr

oeJ l!bn. { long6 rht ta'$r cho*n dqnh ol rlrepl.d hcd

ro bc hompnuos, sams Fhins lenghsof Lbric shoull hll oo

r h6dLn3s {i,lc s $. sby br_ 'rhing 'lt rol, ro rh. backrreis slfcr drcrmL'.k drh inkt{r'

PRoCEDURES FoR CARTrrDGaPr,EATs

lidrh srre or the narr*!{drd

Th. pkar elloNinrt.an bt subdi idcd inro 6 ,nmy roLdsasr|r rabft {ill sunah, aDd rhc folds can be !a&d Lndtp'h a \dl s'lmng duDs6 rhr. fold pinchpls6 inro 3orl.! Phn6 \xrh rhe slo in!, Idlds bdve! 'he plRE u!,rtuhed d rhc rop. polyc{d lib0n fora rhe pleft dur n$ Irom tht pimh

vidrl, rcquncdlor rlenlng

(rd rdllbrtk aairidB. adc, dr ro"Prcftdurcsor plgt l0r) hbn. b mnch aller ir js plakd

mnch N'h dnl|ll.ariq!pln p.rpcndicuhrinnlin$ on dE nay Dnr! p.rpendi.ulxrnnlhLne lo{s cdgcor iht tunlrck (u* sBh) (t od (h)h r,e 6 2q) AlisnDB Lht rop?dgror rlr hb Iir 0 th! rop.dgc oL$. nrti I)in mrch sch nfuhils lh. on ,lt fabnc b iE con$PordDS

Intte nl.Risphnnd for rht hr plene,l hbric wnh a ,loublt- or .u*ing ptujr.lon for ach oI hbric oi parq ro a plar

stqle'foldhenlohi!8,lk.b

.i.x,in3 , Packcdm6 or fordsdrt)

: rln.k .dgc (t) in Fie cro)

lo, ofrabn! ro akuiatc fi. amoun( pld a br suip dr tubri. 6 dnered jn dE lolloMng,xnddu.h ror a. n.sur

aodrnglr,Tddnlhcp|66. 0 ) md rhela oI dr fsbri. on th. hsd,ng rrbalk d$ nrc unironr s$ ol lrrridR'anrly,Fted do6. Thetlishre bd{en rncdoEets &Ed€plnoI r]t plsb {2) tun{u dy 'nud ii andourof $. do6 in ech w Gig.ell) md saftci Fd! ins $c tabncdo J.ely r,y.rtd rolds G) sundingrh€pke6 on tntl sri . {ill. rqq n}: tuk 'heEn ot och loll rd,rE 3ry 116raroosrhe roP.rhenI tht borcn Gig er2)

l NorEs I VairATloNs rs,sd or a n4i atigntdb $. roporrh. Dkxrd Lbnq bbn. m,y h. plaEd ro r,\c lowd .dgt of hbnc du' c{.nds abs€ dr plrd{d hb.

J'_v--!/__\f--]-^

1-\/-\--Y-\'.-/--\.--\

rords ol rhrdhP. ro doP..$chb nc NaDe pu pl€' nui be ntrlh widd $an rhc$kMllokd p.r pl.{ o! lh€ sbr Tl[ $rr shoud b. rpprupii,crr drP eid rq@rinms arrdl.Pt(6, dr spk h.ed Plss shnnk b lne

\!id$ ot oft *in L\nr lurs a dEp {ne} beMcn rhc bulging .!16 on

rig'342'T*ingheb$alb'fud. adddgeplealla]d'basbybe|m Touru.rh ,h. sP4insoI $e lotds, n*k rhr shr M'rr nrc dortedsuid€-

d6isn.d 1optu}d i lirle o. : lor dder PleaEsby hbnc stbtrld hc dromr. a wdr 6 funcrioni. soJrernils. PrcdsrarLhb , dEpeiGrad ol psj.dhg our{ar,l.

ri. pl.4ed hbri. reded 6

[D6. a dor iDr $$y

agehdndg.el*|prces adrd .c'|rilt. ,r.d6 icn like ' dsfiL ii rheanndgc drSor): Theplcr6 xn fo@Edon g:uscd "Ga'hcdns Merhodson Plse4).

idrh

jnb a

rdld Gnridse pknrd hbnc bm.d o I sq Prcj4s ous?'d bdorc tallhc in rivLh for& ro rh. floniDs qte. rh. drhade Gbcn.r,e Nhm ,ht 5br erdEhs : solidlom. I dr hbnt tskB ninandrh.pteb hnty dep. l[ft.d anndg. pleaam *lI. 5qPorirga shd upnghror .xhd rikc a shdf hor rh. ray

t! 1f t! '

'i:

T *

t',1-

! I

a-t

t---:-7-

AccoRDroN PI EATS d brdr, Ganns proicc ig P 4$

ro ds spred r ran r1 { 3!m)

BmF) rrr

mc.h s y formed

HAND-FoI|I{ID

AccoRDroN PrEArs form D-, ford. bdN!o,r,.

,h. str?,ghrr!!:. dl r iifi inP oI rordsL sb.rPlf qrrel .uLstrlul!,hf

rmuDr of hhn.

qa{lh.|oLdlthljluo

(b)

NorEs €r VARTATToNS r/ (1r..t spreidofor. n.o'nir

plc{

Ds Lhr rcp ol rh. pk&d

nkhr.

or sulL.r D dtp(hs

rai-

f.n m,Lrhelt @rc

nid noni

m.h o{r sch h&k

j|31|ELow{rdaldIthtnav

o lJgrr. or lbld md ss 'hEhld plq's Rlrr tj.ssnrs lid cslh roLdsnat be pdmorLr rix.d Fig635AIfuianpha*'|i!h|ly !(d

on pld.d

hbrf n l]ql

rh.in ?nd on, roldhBLmptrb{I

n. ts accordion-rleftd. th! trn'lr n

'r!n'a x 'h! tuLfr (R.r. h nloddns PL€iterod pagt 126)

foLdr. rht nar wrh rqudDudl spd)s Ger( b'8ukd crtddgi

ai,lt

cahldled2|lhe|rpwhanback cBaseszG|Jpsn.hed|aaslay

oplmDr\.lh€Lo\'fleJFd|

FoR MI 'rPRoaEDURE5 AccoRDIoNPr E,{TTNG

hp eJse ill.qt

rhtad vakf i,h\ 'loubll lold rD rhd LB insid. rh. pldinsrhr.d rrong rhrad or !,d ruo'h!,ql, rhc folds. rrk thEplcrtr 'n'o .

Ld'!,

sdr jdnns rnn |tcs

(Fis 6i6i

riqnmqr

gf (F.rrins[Dg

Fg64T,Handsrkhingasbyave|l

Nrorls €t VARJArro\'s

(I) cu,a iDpe,)

o f r h .r l , r ! l r r r n r nr r rrl F0[,-iic

lEr

d]! L?{ rtr\

rrl (ur plrr hbn! Iq

'h€|old'r]IDfil]][\lllld||p( 'lKiJ

trol']h..\|nd

sF.|].!l]'l'1\luLrL]s' rfd cr rlr df N.r

.rrnd

ribn.

o! Pra. 6 )

Lh. r!rJsorr(hinm

rl.i

h tonn.d

h\ hind foli$i,sagrrdor

t!I(b.[oAlshsmdkhg.oo

{

WRINKLED PLEATING

|ab,jcliqh|lyarcurdabnaml& Ddlod) nur he

onnft.n

PRocEDLTRES

sP ild .nr rft hLn. ! l,n, r E

\!r rib( hps f ir n0) \ijd! \rnd 'rrr n l'iir) fi.( unl rLre,. .d hbr r (jrrd! !o!(r (.r 6.I)

t ro irbilie

brcoinnickphring. innft' ofirs PrePJcarnN Modiri cnors.l.ng.lhrtosul' Fdr

dbr

requics (F0 aPnrnrne ric fo! hroomnickpl.

dionrk{i

NoTEs& VARraoNs suchn5.hnu sirr(and iishrNoglir !non. rrtc bci Loqrhlr.d pl. ingn{hdd5 Ih{ roounr oI rld

ng: EnhE.

34.on pr8qLrl ) ro\5 li$Rd of rhnd srhfti,g hbn. imnnd a a..h trLm!.{r doN oI drc mlLd li'bLn utrboutrd. hnsd ofbindrDs.ft t|t rorltd

rullD$s apl)'opnaE lor r|[

Addqins tshrLydh .ord rorlr raldlE rnd nnring I rcc.du{s ol ait{ PL€di,s.rhc sids ot hmdnntr'pl.lrd hbnc m nor tunnflbn

pr.arcd fabic \!i

n| tls

Pre'i3 rh. LIooNftk ndhcd pioduc .i4E5 rod cnss rhn

llered hbnc into r ioll rnd son Lod{lrind kccPh a dntrs o. \i ru o $c rtasa orwn r.!i phrhs. bu1rhcpllas cn l,eEsr N rtphLri

coin.idc u]]l rh dh4ml foud lar.nD8-bu subsequ€nrN!*$

lhe p(paErh

and

DoUBLECoNTRoLLED PLEATS

$rh rht rnieL n&s wLs Lhe plscoism@sbbiledr* I, fte hlds orrdl<dc ,pplrotu's pL'I $nh rh..ooFntion orllm thbtu m LskJ 'o a tul 5hr

ndmmg* mirc|no\'td slowlyibo\t rhcsurl&eof rhe hbnc AlloN b @olud dry

PRocrDL'RES l. sdd , pld qpc rh{ euiB d'. iir sids of rhd labdc,tbloqng dE lloaduE d$qibed for Lhd 9?. orplsn$ (Prrl pl*b.ir

Nor6 & V,4&ATJoN5 Prd4 $tu'b6 trDt rcquiE F, onadiaclt td6 (ll PkaGronned alsE of rh! hbnc. bEing Lh.roldc b lmEl8e

2. sFLiliI r pktu d hoth ods 'he pk,,td Eirh{ udslhrnar $!dg'lt.dgcbmd|trPice of hbnc, or nrbilic rirhdur u sLus befoth"nd, a rpprc pni,. Id rhc tibnc ,nd t[c rquiEmms of ft parricular

{ d hgk

,u.k wh.n rh br.k lolds o{.a. ddst 0 h?nd lonfd erodidi plos aE nreline5drhed tu r lim pl.rmg .nrbl6 dl supponinB. dim brcorudct, o .dirddn

plu!

srrlu spRd our aid buncd i! L\c .om'g.ios s'gs6t smock,de $niL. rrLiliins. 5hiIt rhed!&non ol |ht|oldldr\nnk|6aid[u!rlt N.&rk lonnl rr.ditrs t !!iqur,

D rh. ftnre

(1) Plub lod.d on on. .ds. ot ,he hbric qirlr tolds $ar dwindlc od 'd ndhhsn'hcorFTiEEdgeIh. hisd panrm dd ne sl6h.d al pl.n looioDs. IoLlonins th€ ilEnd' d diedion dr 'ht kilds h.n' !Jg. ,d rd+, and spreadro dlow lor i ptrdu ctold4 dcr,!s 6h Gq diRdior adrptablero pl.ahs. dc! b "r4re E+. 6r'hsmg,

pidous narkinss or e! $iho dns plarErioD. rlsf & bp ligt ol rhr dFLhs rah.n b dr bp .dcc olx nrh nrlla. sdflmed n*

wdrkinstum rtu topdo\r. pullup a lold Nirh $e poin'of 'h! n .dlr. 8lotrid rlr IohLto rlrcsq srh dnrl {pRiakd bkksiithes Pusbrnd pdlL

and opposi@rdsecarhdne,_ Nors ard v{i'idc, on pag.17) Pnlscdfoldr,.cr!ftiion plcft, and

rlrclolds.r-inn rl,c lmsln od

siree,r,lsNhame Plerd 6bnc is

Th. foldsoI @5vd pLd6 pufi w shtldd ow. sdlunddlb iru or hdd hut b$E.n surioDrrr

in oic din.don or one.dgc si

01ds6. or thc alc or plst.

rhEloldsithec{E!€t${dr+e ol'ndM{.igh'dKlphb kNs

thc €ds of rhc Plols c

To dnpq rtu lol& ofl,q.s:I. aPplidions mus b. lDtonhl

tlrlplsb nduc uch sidcof a squa€oi tian8leof hbncvirh rht rords.thm brst $e PrerEde+6 b x s,tur or msBe Th. pufltd f,bnc m y b . l c f tn i s , o r r a n b . t d c d doM hh r @rirE s{d dr(ac andgrco*s sldi hmMlg ftlc b 'Furu\line or pogcq).or nutrcd inb bi{uib (rcLr b "Bscuirt oo Pase2r3) vdtuli us Pdlh Pre's for labncduddn i blsdldrrlrc

pl6'in3 d,y b( adjanL b orc a

rcnnrN6 hhnc inloa Jirr(tdL. fro Exdle6 drtk 6 r pl.r' 6m

Mln ror plctud lcngin or {abdc undlit rcrch6Lhcbl!c' mcisrir

rhc rolrsolfd.d pr.a6 ft 5hbi Itredhb prmaDcd.immoshlc

t.xnlr lor s.un!: l'onddirionrl

or l(N tolds,lxing pushspLaGin rcn-plerlik djrcdioc.Forqam.

rhro{h 'h. rld'{ lRlfr b Uri,ts r sno.king Phrd on pasr D6)

D O I J B L EC O N T R O L L E D P LF A T S

i--

'1S<-:--i

1r\\\\!r\

ti.

/ Smoching BAsrcs SMOCKTNG FAarucREeurEDFoR SMocxrNc

hbrn ututrd lbr ! nno.kDs pro j.. rh'! a hi ly (lnLk gunl| ltr

sp{.d tr'(6nr)!pn1.Lurhrdc

dh ks libn. RDrh.pkr s ori hli,jcli|(cfnisrphn snL

hLn..{nar

nnrMd nn rrr

UsrNGA SMocKrNc

rrNrd5 (l$d o,E od o{ rLrcrLrr6d5l

PIIATER

DsLhf ,mqDr of hrntn..dtd.

nrs vor[id on a sni]r

gnd

iLonsrr r.rsrhofrhrrr.rs r|t rulri dn(lioul pulloL

rtv

0, i silur! of rlt .hD

ird MmN. rht rtrbi. Dbdh JrEdi6 he{or oi :ftr 'n!rr

(ro.n) rorg- dln dr lcnsll,or

]hIfh!lg$''o]|l]r'aLn.Jlnnd

,hl h rdleb,no!e rrr fab,i.

$hq or. fr(

0rhhn. Nr

|l'kPllrq'hNl5aos:'ht r$ft l.qLrr ind rhm for hh,n r,-ddr

,1" GDn) d<p. rlDr,rr hrdkr, llr dlttr.r Ld\!q' dell.,di,s on rhlnurlLdtrq orlk Prar. Al,o drlr.,dFgon 01!F) b rr" (r0r.n)

trl P{rb!

r {.ond

oI rhe fabrn of 6

No r(ttlun

SMoakrN6EMsRotDERy 5,,r( HE5

(moFd. rh! nndE hold tu Iold:

is$orfllhn3 Elrrr nr.h tot inF rs osi pltrh (rh! o,\ |

! Lrfibdor ord uDd. Lhr!p ol

hdcrL(hd nrdrs 'rr' [n rdt m' rL6$ bsdh{ (.ie 7 $l

{

Fb 7-3.la) MaviretuM lrlde 2 tuae tb) strch)ngtaa ttb6 toeethet. andmurs q t ) to rcde rcrc al

Foqr@,mqo,r,.

rhl,h d r'lol,drr(Iis

rlr)

al lPd

la'lzbxien65b4ightsil$

o|!d

nd runrd o"d dr su'n

nooLh rrbu b,!d5 tu edse (Rd{ on Fs$ 17Iffdtrtdnns

4r(

in!hi!*

wqr

or !

'h!

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cEa* Ed' {ord rtu {nh ftc rip

Prls berocPmccdbsrorhc

ThehLn. bc.vrtn.uned r.ks shourd L! luclFGecaDd,ir bcif d uDps*anlint or.kh ru.k t s*d sroorhLtiThc llN oL.uM,u 'ud$ ii pro8esirq rhe,mounrd

Nde Pr r.I

] ; :

: : :

i : i

.rr.,&P o pir t:

SHELLTUcKs

NorE5 €t VARTATToN5 dbrind ftk ]/1"(6om) ro Z" ( 1.3.n') rid.. Mxrr thr

irs:rrr |lt,ucls [iv. bcur

PRocEDURES shndal Tu(k na brgrnon 2 r, hxkc nachile.nirchdshttl

o*r+e nirhi)8. suidirg dL!ivingsro rhciighr.r jLs' mG$ the edscJusgl. nn.h [ng , rh,ighrocdb|non

n,adinr an lloduc Hor.v.i ddE hd€ aDdsndur.d, (nrred. dr kPrrcd &l5 eo hav.shdt$Rlloptd.dsc b) o{dlge {i!h.

rame{linb thehLnc.Fahcshell ftks,r 4 uchin€ ntrfes oo.c brinA,h. ,hrad ovr th. Lu.k i eqls spaccdar 16r brd rim$ rhe ruckrvid$ aDit. To

hbnc ff8 F.r tvo, shrlls. hrk NeE4e Poi,s ,irrr

rhc dn ctu$ lor lund siLfud rhdl luclhs aft sl)dtu Brins r ,.a tad. b l,,tr' wlidr 'unB 'hr Iold foNnd b imke $t slishrnn wnbrhrnrl"(ll!h).

Lh.ftJldr

ruds,n,r-L. $llop.d udr i l.{ sn(.h .nd pin 'lte Eds$ of 'Lr3 sh.U rtrckd l,bh!. iisbrsid. up, Loa p:dded su,-f.c., and ntxn \r,h the non hcld jun rbov. rtr rulkf8 Alotr ro cootmd dr

roLd.{hthhrlp3ld B,Lh hr 'h! oYsedse nir(h$:, e roodort 'o8dh{ fo! tu dd'h of rheruck. levdrhn. ltn b hndrlupptu (scr phoG ofshdr ruck on

ovcdg. nnlh s rh€ddrh

on rlt tubn.,ford'od $en

rcI

{!h

lb!',!J!)

CoNToURED TUCKS

c u 'd

risll siL. o( nl

I .

'"(irm)wdio&dedsssr

PRocEDUTES Lh! tulr 6 fdJd

n{ 'Ni'g)

I dr

roLLr'! urqLLsL !,rg! !r 'hl FA 3.21 f'e

.nbtPd

wi{r seans

pr.

NorEs et VARrTroNs

combine dilr.rtn' .dntoubg

ruckhs prllE. (oGidft rh. efl( 'ien6!o|ad.signwh.ni*

$i11showu!h$ ,ht ,ndum oL

tuk rols aod dv.ilips, nrgcc t][

(.frDk fu.tr,whi.h look * il opdliDgsureotdru8h,bP hy{ of fabft 10 .\po!. .idrhcr or id.nlra[y conbuEd trdG 'hr md in rhe cedf sii.d lryholc rcqunc no h.kl Fmcd h 'hr .ombinarionnue be exL': r*d lu.k or ettual widlh ,fd .onron.

sdri' rii.,'.d .m.o!r.a &.Ls rrc rhrp.d ris the tu(k5 hRv. b*n nitdd A bdrdd ollhmd rc. venB Lh?ot .dg6 of $. r,hic ltun frling Dd ale .dph*t6 dE conroucd pron|a oI rhc ru.E odo tb. ,{fto rGlins LheomNr fronr of i fi*[cd tuk. !u' o on dr.lift and in nn.h dvd ]n. .ur

ftr ncrhod: FoUoNthc ti!.dour linc $itL $in sdrhing onovethc hbncbqond ft. sun lrchd conbua bj .uning fmm n.!dh hdl. to nccdL.holedln sd{I.

lDLcruckb8prEr on 'h. roldor a n.ip or pip.i (d. Iold b !vl,oc lne Luck will mfttr olen rhc ndp b kr Cr k.l[olc d6i8n Ah{ r!ck, and pns,ng rhc lol& k fac .ich drhd [ind rv th€ tulk5 iosdhs rh$e th€r 'otr.h unns d(oc'ive o. irusibl. !ii.hing

Fige24'conlfunngheedgeala Mkhin$ w1G r dccdon oI dElq nivt nitchc an b. pro8hnmd $am|ortrLfifringaftcNtrd

rig.s.23Dlanond8hpedkeyndes Mbdbybow.|yihgllbpahtso| lwDzEzas.arM tuk beethel

-_,,l

. *j

..-*.r

__.

.-:..

l !

t (

(

1! {

)LAIIJED I IJ'Ks (i nm) w& co$.(a!

t{rlt rthFrlr rnsotr ?djacnrtud6 ro o\d'lL

reguar

rrr aordrigir rp rDdr! rd

|,j

ldNlq,,k

tli5h$

(bl

unhn, erTely qaed

PRocEDLnas

hnL(iu'bu,!ft

Ll{ tu!L ((n

L!dh racLds\tror r Frd.d

sDiE to cB

NorEJ â&#x201A;Źt VARrArroNs b Fonni{ an.{n bn or r, irr is

(r rr)\i.oinrdninLo

N'h sl6hs rtagq(d i,5u((d

nf!i8h, F rrcm ,rrr fold md n'rk(\o5rsh$u

conr

Fs j25 rd hake shads teeh: t3) sp8

Iabn..an Lâ&#x201A;Ź pilEtnuftd rll ow !i1h rnip ftLnaqlrurkr co(r ulprs.d blind iuck FnryE'h. tr'(*sand.ifLhc tuhi! !,1!d{n. sh xnd spin dr i) aubnniary ilLnbh rrd ldftdl'M $il,|cd.

R {rhdtrB.

tu.15G sprn

iro rhRd.fioc lodpi

rl'd(l

{ft fdl& illgn.d ro r|f nnqh' gn,n, tlNads,re pidad rdJ Ptrlldl rhchdp ot, Ld,gtrlrdl. orpi, B|tor unravtr1i,,s. diyjd. tns'hy Ld'lr 5!rn. .LTsr(r.ndtulr Afts cigng, {Rbrltc virh i $n d|n,ifug:ig:agnn.hit&los ,hr basr of r frirse b rrc\ftl nor unnveLlnre (Fq 3 r0) rn.ks ,u.rd hbn. nnrengrhtD.du'h li 'u or p,rs-on irtnalin8 1o tulrlledlnng. lr rft!!v.

vrry rth shark! tdh obnsdy

sl,:h6 mar nop shod dr rh. ltr.k s6n. and lne Dgl.! dr 'h. poin6

drhx|]]n. th,nrwli@$rud! EnNr v'ihrpdl {edC* ol labft Isr tu ru.h. rnd fol{l s usull (Fis.3-ze)Innsd oI zisa&ing. Fg.s49shapngsha*5le|hby pushing|h6slasheded94fuehe

FE 323 skshinswirhrcbhes b rtntnd

rhr N.dsc i sid.r|t rtrcktubero Iom tLt arsh (Fi! 3-2e) Ladds rakinA.arc ro |r-tft

hbn. dNads

nkks *sntd

do$n t

bcIF sDpping ,lk! Lh?rring. Isn loopd b lalcrcd lI rllc rrb,n

trrks $c lnnlcuLF o fiI,n. w rn

,. . / . _

. / ./,

/ . /

,_ / . " _

{

/ /

S L A S H E TDU C K 5

CROSS-STITCHED

TucRs

. rbr howaieduck5. Provide wnedrthinsth

*er the6ds

PRocrDrRrs

r}e roldsoI rhecenbEd Nc|.s 'o br pr[.d up rDd bcked

r. tuvrw Lh. pro&durcs for

rred r.k L rnablnh a!6e olto.k.d hbn. . For undurado8 tucks, droo* pin. !pk.d. dr brhd rud6

b'o bouied ruck

Foi unduldins dck, alrs

rcrc Allow sumdmi sDke b.rwen dFcrr ros of.rcs c\€Ee djEdonfr onr dnguP th€ fabnc Gig.3 t1). s6s

'h.3per n&dcdberw*orhcows o1rop$n.hing ro rep lh. hbric fld Unduhtingd.lls rrh : heishrwheErh.y cha4ednrrion 'haLrquii5 'hEdeplnor the rucks rhc hcishror a bow u.d u& u a lirle ls rhnrh3lldE {idrh olrhe

*ftl,ins, hcl d. lbtdcd.ngc

p.ddeil board.sd rh. Pmj.df8 low ndgir ngulirly 3pkcd Buidelin$ mnkcd mrh libft

Norrs & VaRrATroNs

ro cool $xl dry beiort uip'n

allowrDcs .r dr dr(GoLln. tuls To makeft o osov{ rop*irhins ovcdlldsig!.ukld&oRdvt iiLch vhen seNins UneveDlt

lrun &. sndry panllct and ngidly n€ishr, .fr.nvr ly partn inlo. Dal. loo$r app|natioEoI ro$-

bgdh& inconspiludtrsly a dn d bsdL{ ritb boq-ri.s oroma. nfthl rhrdd or cod ardallor rhemdsrod,ngle For a dsign in ruds on lh. rop ol ,loubhd an,l

*ffi

ffi w:

til#llllNt,

{w$\[\\r #ll#dll##

CRoss-TAcKED

GE 3 r+) rh! wo klls trr bd\*o'. lodrd j's' ixide 'h. lolds rLioN,lr cds6 b cunup

TUcKS

NorEs & VARTATToNE

il {idflurks:

bdw.tn hubhlt 'u!r hlk 8ubbl. Nlk5 rN b{ rid on rlr sortrc

(l)ln

r'l]c

ibbon. l.aYhs th( cd cids drn slins, xqd rh.y * p*fttrla y

'h.*olinbIk.runliq

rhr kfr lold.(l) cr.hrh€ Iold dirur! opl osnedth

PRocEDURTS 1. R?{r* thr pio.tdufts lor sundid li.ks rhl bcginon

bgdhei (l) Tr.k .si'n dNnsh rh. enrer ot thc doM (1)stonandcur r]t rhErd-u arry the

rh5. , rabicyG dnrpp.xrhg pe!.or lhnlk rn Idrspx.ing Iis| rpplling dr sclcctd t.h

bc,w&tr lacks o) Bd,s rh{ needleour d rheluck! (l) am'

'. thmd dvd

*an Pullrhrt]lsd

ponrion{G) 'n f'g. 3 rl)

((b)'n Fis 3 rr). posn,on rosdhe and,ln ld\ei,

kck

.jLlcd tuda n<d $Ifiltnt \pac bctrlllDb.kjn3poi'Bbpnvd{llt pul on ih. rull no boMns rl,e hl} d rtt( I r oblcd. rh€ 5bnd oI a 6bled rudr .quals a l['1. l6s 'lmn rorholh kiids oI!tu$ kc[.d trtrks !m Rndlr*h $th h.k b th. s,n n oNrncs r rhc bqin lins androd or!trEr Bdd bubbl. . bp liJeoIcoMcd{ndlar. kking erd Ncks c$lFdad

'fuc(s

PARTTALLY SEAMEDTUCKS M

bekdch or nnch in phce ro rdry ror cros ock.d pfum. 5, r(51h€ {oldsorr.l6.d dck

rypesof P:dart $amed rlcksl

-ranl.l

rel6.d rohons ot rh. tocks

e.kr rth podom or

|oosefo|dsf6m$esamedfo|d!.

iD&nprd tucks,sftrh rna pin rhce4$ or dreNckins ro 1 ircnhddju{$o!clh.su,c orrherucks. andalloqh.ool

PRocEDtREs

6. Rds b "Exhding

l n.vrw thr poaducs ro! su'rd,il Tutk 'n{ b.gh on

. ru.ktng

NorEi & VAru{TroNs suh.d ru.k dn gEPl Pale( d<ocdYq theylundion $'n.rh{ I'kc plti6 ro crEre and conhl fullDc$ in rhe m,rr.d !.dbc dI $c fibn. Th. lullnss..n bc tso lr€d n oneo' on borhmtlsof rlE

nlellin6 toindic(. rhepin, sp{e4 brrd. $adurd, cm ll ol m into un*m.d lolds d d6Eurd poirB ((a) in Fis &rt) sp.riry ,h. q,Peof 1uck,tuck$dth, rhr spm beNen hck, md Iotd pi6s i'u d'frrdons on fte Phn. . Forimcrtuptd tuck, ounin€ nn.hing vnl be$spcndcd {(b)b Fiq.3lt) rhGlaE $e rlan into a full{L.d ,!.L ing pakn. sprd our ro bcludr sprt. ror $e uck folds,silh tu.k ssdld$ rcred b$id€ thc ccnlmd ldld rrnc. Lihi 'ur liahlor an i\trn|d uh daigrb r.

F]g'ajs'D.slgEh|padialy .*hed|uckwjlhkMindi9fug w6ttatds: la) Betead tuk wk stq3. (b)tntwbn

tucr; \|ik brc-

ruckedsideor dE *am.d sidt ol ftl.aEd tulk5 canbeskced for lhcrightsidcwhcnth.iin.d sid. is oubid., rhc ru.k in bkk

3 Usingx r,bic.qre, Enishhs or frark rhenshr sidt ol rhel,ln. vtrh rold liIE ard *:mhrs * :mnsemcnr Mx& rh| pdDB FoI irL,!.d

ru.k, .xpandrhe

tuck dd$s bsid. L\t tdld lin6 Fdr bkrrupred uck. fte lold lins ltun &. pdeD: hce 4. Fold.nd sewnr dcks b)

Pull ,hEerd of ft suirmc rhl€d ro rh. ba.k and ri! the n€edh beloa rnmdng lht drt,&

rrtr

Unlile rel4.d Nclis, {abricDat tm.dwttnDtnrt@Prtdfuckln3 d€ign nmbs shbiliucdthmugh' nonrlad ruck lolds ssnd, rna lne pdls 'bd rplae rheinreE< crcs pmjcc' .vcn non. rhe d.va ddn of rhepurs is decmined by rhd db.h*gc tu pufi. shr papd danning tonn intmptd tuckins daiq! a! r Iully prcdnt rh3dorh

t :

TUCKS SEAMLESS

&k5. 6\r b!!l( rold. roi Iotrr

ush8 {uiJ,v drrn n r orr l,e.!{n

trvo b{Ljold

dob

irofg fien eisth There are No

Lq:{hc rishrr on ,he thErd b a.md

r]I hrk lold dds on

dud pnl nn.Lrs.no'ins b!${nw't]lddsbrd'! nccdh 6su( &{ n.b Nori tdsc to rds. (,) in Fis &r6J

dun{ tur ((b) 'n rris 3 16) ln& l.ngrh.pin rh. mds k, a luddd surtx. andnâ&#x201A;Źer n i'h .i beoledd4&lorcr

ing

PRoCEDLTRE5 FoR

PRoc[DUREs FoR CruslERTuc(5

TIEDTucKs r. Phr a (Pladns.tull.sEdr.h No dob.oN(td

'iliut

duncrs, diillL Lhl urrd mLa lEord br lh.,iklntrnbc ol

!kAn( rlr 6lrri. h{roE lnd ]fr]lLrcdnrduf'hd*ntra

I wlh ! tubiavtu Fis. 3 36 ra nab tubt

trrn{lss 6f rhr hbrrc iuan( !n.

tdtr hr.k roldstr rh,-

Psr or ruril,

lrcb: (a)

atistEd vdhatty and hd,htaty

hr bcr.ur ro!a. Dosu(

\i1h a lb! b

or rie (F{ 3 ri) rh.

fujmp'lirg|hesrbhesloge|he|

lb)

6sdh.. Fo.surr!( trls.dd d! n*hr 5iJ{ (he r.hn'qu. hll ob{rtu drc ddc)r lor(.6e

NorES â&#x201A;Źt V.4RrATIoN5

{drh ol& u'ldemo$

i - r - i i

i - j i i i i r - l

tuc|lsbrinhricbulr concal Lk idE Rnd

BlanLs lillo{fs

sridi$d

pd.

oorhning virlr tr'!l$ 'hi un m 5Lr n,,l,ldndLedorn b ndlh'rs

t!"t @b-s la) tde 3l a\ atdan q aq\hq lb . d) Pa$a'data aar wrhsbgg*dsp2cirgard.hangesin "F

too rh| rabiA surli(

(t) Mrkr r

r][ fcdk inro ore dd and lxrtn

$,.idins 'he lhs apfl b

d.d r trp No rulk wlnr dr ds'gtr F r.d (r) fti( rhcpd'Lm hbn+{rE dnip|!{14 . Nhtn surf?f lrirs in Go

.orkd ir b{k. r'h..

. Fn rvd*

Fiq'3e'P|epaingbreafuCkby Cannechga@no|bb||ilh@t

sof

pd' or

Lbn! wnh r li|irc po{iL. oi ror l

\trh dhd rratug. (r) cau$nsb)

')ing dn$ir

rhrcu8h b 'he nghl ndt rl't

thtd$ so ({) rvhlo nNhd

ourdr?rc6bdlcco,hc,u!rc[d 'u.r'Dg ro . peddcdboaid srnn Nnh,n nor hcrdiun

dry h.lo. upimhs (5) Rtau5r oondd!* ftd r!d( d!5iqn! .hatrgt th!!'rgsoIfufubLi.l[nnnigh and rnr io dnron.n fin Lhr frbrn

: '

r i

PATTERN dineisioia zes d*iqm wiih .udin8

PRocEDURES ca!3u.hirgqnrg|hereee@a swt \{n ,nh) ta the tetuat the xre pin nL.|d

1b Plo* rhr

tide tudu oppast4 stayins a scanl t/s"11.tun) noh ke the d ethel

rn vq$ua ,he fabrnbrfoc aDd

|he|h6adhulfuJa|e@n|ihDirg

rngdE hLn. reqnnmcnt.or sdcL}'1,Ldns|.J:dfbo'h

fahnc sentq Ph murd

'hr

suili( ol rl]c tudG aDdrlorh $ol Jod dl,lbttoro uvhg

|'nmlr'd dk on a riBhL 6d d Mdo{ dunne drrliBh, bc\,N r ri.sofrhcpn

d6br dth are.hatrs ruhhinesflch-

Norrs 6 VAtLATroNs

ll.hn) han one sb at the the ard btins | tut '/6" t1 snn) itan llElha@lJlesifudiBc|lyw6ib MoviE toNatt stqhql, kk a tiry cahtirue hack ard tdh (b)ahet,, {|ch6'pullhe|h.ead|aut|abig

.mss.:rd $op ind n

ansh{.

horr'.ind rrrn gdtrlr rflh. 6," GN'n) vid. rhr ro!. trd{arLot th Lhl o{dr. i.{*dqllt

L G ddjl|]h'

ju* rLrod of rhcn(dr. 3nd io noR dran ,r/ ( r tnn) rFr rh. ford For dshr dr{s

rae nid, oDonc sdc oLftr rhtlnd asu.tuenfuh or rhc

dn crion.olc'rding {nh Lhrcadtmbo$$ rh. dsien *rh thr ndg$ 'hd h e a tup. lLk..dsc (Fu 31r) inic d rhr kdnil0.

Anex(p

P ; TT E I N i U ' (

FilledReliefs

P A R , TF O U R

Q Cording BASlcs CORDTNG CoRDi foR CoRr)Nc

arrnrrNc

n,s uri r aPP{oi !odirs I

HAND-SEwN CoRDED QUTLTTNG comhiiedon rh* embcser :i nEr ]a.igd*giintoihesrhcef:hft

PRocEDuRrs dri.e. No Diialkl. ev.nly 5Pe€drin6 rhc lin6 d€rin. ina'lai .nrfrn'ng p!rh! thrr rPP€r b N€l!€ olq znd und.L dn. ,nd'hcrwhererhedoublenop5d. prosns0n df r dhe( rnd ddr dranntlilier channekir m$6. s(au* ol nens(Fig.9 l).Th.eI|widd

opyof'he dsisn onrorheinn{ cuno rhc dcncd sL. (nrd 'd . For runi,ns nn.hld cod€d

. rn b,.k.sdr(h€d co.ded quilling, tri!. rhcdaign dnb rhEsu.fee6bncrsjDs. lan tsh,q n sn\, Emoubrc BsE rht inDd linDeb rhc

d6ien Nirh rinl uniaom nrch (o${!s

s. AL PofB

vre

b{w*!,hE

fabncbyqs ro dr

dunncls intnup' d. I'nc bdDe

rhelineco{irucs,hkinS. linr bekdrh on dch sid. or tr

t s4 N D 5 E W NC O P D E DA ! I T I N C

I-qi). pdlql Lh (!h 'lr

.abte catd: la) Pakeand Msst,athe taryatd (c) LeaE shad bk wh*

NorF-s â&#x201A;Źt VAR,ATJoN5 ^n{.o dtr,g.rh! li6n! Ld{lqr rr,! lnd r,nnr rhJon.rssha, d h. dDorls

/" (6

tr) widc {! jLLr!

rrrh| !trt,( hr,nrr* sullrnr

or rh! inilrrrhg

annr! fllf

.onP

hrin., b(

r,{, r/ (6imJ.hrn

bs a L" (6Dn).hrnn.l

(6rnr) drmd

d.nsrn r. rNd5ibL 4srr0d

!hirnrr Jod !d,he yrD n rhf

rh. lrdr. !I1l'! hirs s,r r,!P\ lLf' otrGid ]t olnnigr tr. trLAg.d

ncrhcd LxPuLLbs rfr][ dumds

nLlldv,l, 'm

lable.lorded.rarrl

hN. 'nd!

.!ble.!{ded hb.ic,r liunr n h,unLLluoFn lrrd hhLi(

larhnrs

(nnn) d,trnd A doirr!,r qnJ.

dnnr -rdri.r

rfiL a iDg(ndl

Lf'3 e rl .huN, hfe.r'n(dk o hodkn,!nh0rqriunriig ,l,rmqi

bf rha,d.d rhnrusf n

ld .o!!td und{.

: "

'.-':', 1[rnr\5 r 'lt chaoDd1(hinrd

hennDinn R.n,ov.rft nnns (|,is q.r) JoLr rkro dN.Lop.d

-- ,-4."

---,.=,,

-tt':,\i::

i,'.i':t 'l<,/'-:\: A:'

r{Ddhnosri

r.,rd n{ligr..td,n,oai!

Nnt! ihoi llilLn b(L{i(hia

l'u*'Lr inDd

cta$ore thtead haus the cabt-ecard tn da.e

I :ri*r.'.1t

,{ffii ;

l-!.-.4<_i

I arrr!'!r!r&rt +:!rc**

. -

M,rcarrr-5ewl CoRDED

hs rlrrr dais! Equns 'oF

QutrrrNc uDoi(]btlb!d|gl]tunL5 d rr l ro'!i i' balr (r) P,LLL rrN oLlJrr thFad rp rdl qr ol r|t lLnhs 'de (r) Ttr rhttuc

qhq'dtbn{Lh.t?hn.lhI\ll

nrhrsqn& kioL o) rn$r

PRocEDURT5

md1.rr$1, LhLo{dh nno rh. rlriDs{ dr lan *rcr orl[l

rlredsr

$nnoir

con(al Ed! Ll( Ld!!s.oPr d

(+) sr!r!

NolEs A VAruATroi\'s h1!. PrELrd dorbl! lDclhaDnrls

lbou rind *$n.o.ded aui d,g' durs dsdibed on |]sc t39.

h fft.d

0â&#x201A;Ź

s$) rnllltu

a r i r r i r AG r { r . r $ m . c d d 5 6! aoidrDS on Plg. L37l Mo{

(6dun r h$ nrforshnnirLl +nP'uuq'htL0(|hg/h.ginnnlg

(r!5lb{\

m rnr

Bdo,r {\

ir:.

d(r rrior urisf ro$ oa rh. d6 3r onro dr hurs (rL.L Prsr l0j) trarf 'lE linrngb

\trh an i

hrl{abq! rhrht)

lidrr d,h:peina bdycr lhmre s FoL!,rid ordns. dli

.h.i,nd! or,nod.rk lu,sLhHLh l nPctr\ trLldrco bqLkN orr( 'h. !nd rlmnsh 'lE !hDn.ls qrh

h3$fdi(fi'dmd]cds'.nq ba.k 5dd a rm @d 'h,r bu

Pr$s loorfrrh a sF . in 'he k. dnLchoN r d,nrIahic 'hd vnps

s Fltrdnsdinlnats.oin{nim a npznt xlnit cLEnud srthLnB (Ii sin Nih rnim! n.lnhad hf tr lNgI

'hr lLnh8iid qrdlli

L, lorpd!tu lor 1ltr .u, \irr oI the ntrh(.IiLri( orr Lht q'Js Prr LhclLu!3 u' d'! jdc (2) $rh rhc n i(.fibri! up rNlhcfisL san Gl h5slr tnn roid. su.h

rsriE, ihe $N qdis k $ (+) corhu.

*ms 'rh.

proenls th ud ao h! humpLdrds6 a'uid b\

(F g 9 9) lDdi.n. oosured 5p.ain8

laat nak6 a @saqew4 tot the

noNrtd \!hcn .ord G nitdrd irsidr r]t lhrDncL BLh( dNr (F'g 910) rL Eâ&#x201A;Źithfl {dd ndhod oIm$tun. th! rmho*cd

lne {B.d r{lr or qrd's sd' Li&r o | lup oI pudnc Iabn! sun lcqtrd *n.hmsN(h1kq

nnh knoln ud lwisb 'hd !lx,*

Lordrn rcdl.s und{ r]t rk${

$rhrziPpdor nN Ldr1r cord.

addinsc.'dcd qr5.

heschingwil]fuable|awaprhe

Birh Jhd(r/rt

r'r-

n .h.,.difg, i |dq'onioI rhit:d.n.lo$ rh. !ord rvi redLe or :iszis {r(h'ng n'bni

taj cad insetu afret swi@ he hannets atu lb) cad bsed.d thte

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r.Lhn((s{ (ii !r r rs e it

b) fre nnintn spaceb,4||en seanstat adkcent.dded tubs

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snnn.nor

(lr \1ur Lor)Lhr

l!, ,1,!.!rr,atr!o

rrl i(ld rLrr .r

ri6,rtor

o {hr

d idir(d.

dr..tr\l

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Notr burdis r]I flaLsor th. N,n whcrcrlq ,nc(. n s$ 'he L!1bLLI*

*wtr.o,d.d qniltns. surr!( <d .d dDnnelsnDise !o s or r c o L t r go n p r g . l a 7 ) P d k m s &

rrom Llt r,bn! !d br .trr.d rnd .oil.d dMnA aDntnmn D.(hrd .oklirg is ude tson dF d{ bhs dtr

. n, nich2od-od h oncoF. a,Do: (t) Fdld bd\*rr lItr

NorEs €t VARrAroNS .onlhuotrs'i'Frordng$.Iltrt6b'

(r) I$qr dd LBidr 'lr

pinn.dtordo) r\nnDgth.

F4hincGr 0, in rir eit ,rn lod ,rnvrds:

o) Pli

orro$? 4singsoi€ (r) s$! rherrc$s loor o) I hndins lhccodinta,P$L]n<dk

iri,lc tu NhuLr .asinssG<

tds$ or surr,le-cordd fah,r ror &$ l] trdtrd crn|! o\ s dr *!munderosLh! b6r \i(h

(Fis s LB).Th! .oil t oachine nrchtd h'i& thr c.'Ds \d' r

qL u idEsough h indud. s!

Parar rirhs^drhg

RRrn

q|l (.n

rtro ) 5lutrjqnnA Lrc Pi(s of tuhn( o hrDs.!c i toMd:tronh

q.il d! noP a rc$ i!trm'LLx

ford

brr(ri8 o n) For.LilL(i apPl.

as ene. la)PlTs/weanebt ir san awratb tb)P,p)nctuenihs b{{PiPhghlldngiIreifli.

oI hhn. trnL au.+6 nr.Lbs

rbdtrr" (jcn) noo rh.,n{rins |)oinr oP.nrr p+urnâ&#x201A;ŹLdns ashg $J finnh rhebdnnu (h! e 2it) s.{ 'lr {!ord pi<e ot fab.i. roth. |in{hluht!'lsfaqngfilrlh. Pip[A/rEldlginrcoddloLLid

Frg9.2lMachfusewingnrea| p@rylretinola)dowa|dhda|in s.a,n illdwa(s

(r) Hdlli'3 d{ r,p of Lh!q4

rc iEidc orded

b3 ro nake cod.d tubrng {D .tr' .

141ftnd srirch.ord.d lubru e,Lrr r !!ao asrhn rh. fourhron hr)

6 {h Jrmd( or ,ht !ow.d .o'! ({f (h) ii Frs e re) hf rh. lor

or rcd{ing{lomdr h:.k nretrlr sl,on5qn droqn( und.nrcRrhr

rgrnn 'ht .o.d,q of rr I o! tun

sdp b! a duPliah hDs'h (1)usnsa

lht|dtrldalo!i!ahoqrJnd|jxk

br' rct qhdr agai,s' rr,! or,r ^L,hc

up rsah{ rh. hhn. nomrnds n$'h codeddbingsrn rpfropn

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lQ Quilting aurLlNc BAsrcs

QurrnncBsrcs I&ANifERxtNGDfstGNs 'ltoughlqjovsla${lrsa|

jouri'g \6rlLlsu'i\ dc5i3nodo Llr hhn. L.ror rrr rop R bs,.d b rh. b3rins od riDi'rg,dr H^NDAL]ILTI\G

!Lsa,

b!d.0vho1tb''1)rt'dB/rdh3

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ioPqulLhs /14 r.n) Iron rlr (6nN)rropquiLri,sr' (25!m) t !1r IEI

Pi! rhelbins nrd

TAP'/] CONNE'IIONS or'he bp sdr nshr:id6 ogdlr nls. r rlr.ds. (rll lrj{E) of'hE

s,ht oodnL( ro br jorrll

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und.narh. q,rh nshr sda rr.itrs sv rl]c edgs of trlo rhdulcr

SIRIPPID CONNICTIONs

,r.,!d und( hr,nilnidrrLr.roLil.d or r|[ *.ond nodrl! {Fis rot L\o {Q5

riqhL ii'r$

fro!8.

olhn$rs\id..,onsh ro hlL,nrh.

(Fis l0 t) rud quikDsu 'hc

.t Fa la5 Sdppcdcanr@lar 13)Jdr thehhs shp bTe lb)Fttth.sla.e behhd|he|ap!|ipwrhfud'njlackdd

H,rro Qt trrtnc

(rcrnh rhiDs o, r,sr 106)

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. 51ipphquikn,c(k) rn Fr8 10.6)suroundsaisun

nndrns .i[($ aDdmoifsdDr e hir€quiring do tul turruLft . E.hoqu,rbc(lh)b Fig l0 6)

r/ (6'n'n) Ld/t' Ocn) apdn

d anxdl

,ns.{ nng. nn'!i nn.lrcsrn(d r l|[ Nor

nghr nJe of rabn ld hrs (rder ro rransi(nnc D$q6' o! Pisc,0u\\nh hbn! srfr ftrknus. mak hiol burqsibt. linesdrnbk $oush b sud$

drc.ds.s to rlr. {dr(

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hdh rioldrh. h\$ bsahcr ,rmPo0.il)qih mrsof lons trdish' ph5 vhilc banhs rirl . rhrcd .xtri ronslrng,hrdr

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or d.s

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lhud insEd imo a 3hon, bd$ren $w rhioughall rhâ&#x201A;Źl,r.

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ii-i il-i-i-iii-i i-

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)

N'l*;lg;;;a#

as. 10.11.(a)ra stadqukns, mke (6m) bsth ot qukne r@d Fi1,10.9'Pa@|dbasfuahe bpbafrinqandrni@bg9lh.r (2)squarcdatu (b)Ratuti@ and carcentd.tnB (e)Pddns the edg6t'|aldaqdrdbelinglhe efulinircb|he3eafralldwa@

. Pin rill bros or ltltel.PlaL td nal erd) piB, n2.00, 0,di1 shnalomrndof

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-4,-.

c)@4n

(e)ar trehatite ta tund knobuti titu h@d 36" (e15.n) tae. ke spa(d + lr0.r) lpnt U* r sEpcGunspoon'o hdp in oubid.cds6 sid, ncdlc aDd

|iq6eheahe|hafiloquil|in while quiling. plaa th( btLld bdhardns,rin4 D a Imn. d

Rolllr*. qdl's a ro{sdlbsr Lh.tull 6 .on'hucb6rhg rr rhr quLllingdaign G ,lMdl nark.d on rhc b! uy b bsr

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dsigr bdbr. bahg rM !d ,hs hh the {â&#x201A;Źn. rtrd drx

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Fa|aDFuFningslfuedqbnq G) rhe hid u@t d theszw)re 'ac's|heneefulh|aughlhe|apbL tng4ni@whchhphchedbwafu

sudaa (b. d) thg din

at be

(n sdins aahet .tuch viut a pel

enped intaa 2s173hn) haap .funqe|aahaf.bleh@en

r6op quilrhs is poirble:rd

nvdy rM phhd rhed3$. rf

wnh danPhs Prcr oDeside

runovcr1lbirns d,dd LxlcpL rhedrerd insidcrh. *Rn

L! b{k unril Pradicep.rle6 $c

nushwirh tht in.d up r4. of thebP A$€obh quilrd mod ultsrdSdh&lehs oDeor Lhe ncrhodsdacibed h !oiri!8

lic lih unbrmpd pu.k.ry txrufl

nkh6.

I'r dGLirgunhd

covr rheedg$ol? ffnishtd

uid 6 rhconlyquiklnsnir.h bdryh\.|sftncd+ilttngIurc.

mdrtu {wn. doubLdbhd,dg (reb ro '1 hc DoubkdBinding fdee..in!h- on Posc207).o.

s ufd ro quiLt,hc nejonry of a

bp qr'm d'c bpaahMd,

comrorNhenlurriry ihe rhard i5

NorE5 & VARradoNs Nodc quilrss oftcn tcd duNJ, kks. ren'ouhr ropAa'6s/. lirins ton ft lDop b.rw..i L.p quil'ins lecds tu ]xpl

ard one hrnd undcmslh, tr*

!rdk. Llhic[ G Mnrtrvd.d ry 'he orherh3nd.Lepquik

or dE h3n,labor. *trh rh. hand bclov lhm rraft or hoop,tu uns r l'rL pm'rr ooroarlr rhe rdtrry, bur r uk r dedrcrredqTe n€na tu rhicv. ln. ftx ladr

surf,ceiroomuchrhrad rision 5hdaers,nequirtcdfabnc.s.oc

{1.5.n),.oudry onb rhenirh6

sdFP[ry,i5heihblc rtz(n |hLh.d3i.6imPonad,add3'{.rynee'Rn. lorsl.nk,g. wh.n dting th. hbiics rnd b{uu. Dsisls wirhshor..los lirs

,l handquilrirs Thi!. softbnnng rRyd.dbdNrcn rlrn, sort fabn6. :

quilre6 ro ntsonat Analr:t lhc

andesr ro. rhr nrtdk ro slip ,hDush, L rh€n(ssry brsctor

n'nequhng p,rh Ifrhelhc hehs out, *oor thc ntcdl. $rcugh rhc utlhs ror n*rbyliiErexhabl.

p,rr orthe:6rhdc. Unifomfty sndpi.bnar 5uibbilitr arc rh. md pd

rr bp4xnhsnhiis

rrr do,rr ldvding a koce.ald

h,r

beEndiidcd i,ao enill

handqtrilrns rpprc.ch* the de!o, sk r,m.rul {dr.i'8 tooLstikt nnninsjrft.h.d qultus bu' lne D€edlcdioD n drrdm fd pn rcii.d lt sh. quitleE rt! an ambrddrss aldriry: wnh the bP,Ening,rh''u[.lhfud hdop.rle handabovtpushc rhr n*dr. {higbr dos! rhrcughrhc nrdle our ard. mond fownl by i d.h rc ftqE the nedr€ iDb $c rining,pushing tr shighr uPlor $e hrDdrbovero rcd.v.. .nd so o!

NrYdquirrlons.rnishr tins mrh leqrhy the& 'hnr could sn,p undd hrurc srdn nirh I shddipan of $e linun,l dH vrn r rnc n.aqr o,lu quil,iie nqa

l(lesb apr€din r|t qnhing {i.hs nonqble k!o6 and riLs ol rhud.

Qu'hry an lE blftd b i p.hon or $e 1oplabnc n'c bauiis du' prrs &€ {6 shdrld b. d,in and/orpulltd dd slrddca aound L\e <kd b d\indle od eBduJ\ odr.Nc. dr linE$hse r lbps nRr shs s r ndge $ilttd bp,r

qh linhs. or lh. 'hc .nd brne 6 Pdbus\ d&nh.d

od5.$r drlq€dn n appli.dd 'h! b.gd]i'EnlhoJundE@do|'lt trph

b dd id idrrhbr. ro wndr-

mod'drsi.d

lePinif$![Etbdshg{s9f...

piE€n 6) crry fic quilrilg de'ED h tu lrigc ot rh. Ltdnr nEtuL 'ht *an aLlorunct and 0 l c qu'hD.r blneb d'ca tdg.{, rnn rhc b!' 'ins ftu'n rlrc sum rllo'ana befot ,un$g (ltele' ro Fis r0 rz roi F(Jld h4d 4!i'iu.

pncduE

quilEd hsdhr w'$or . lilq ot h4dns in b{N{n .a i Es'Lr rh. {rklr rl'.fdt $c runftsjdrh€d

Prej!!ts shtr wd a

o) \skb$s dss. snoorh 6c b.* ha up. over rhebdrlrl8 A'u!l' d'r nr bsEdr{ {i,n enouglrdn.ad d d!L) rd tsdis ro prrm ft badns lsn nnDling anl sdchbs Junn8 tudn& (2) \\i'h 'he edgc .lLsn.d.l'r 'hcbPtid'i6ielasdt|d]r€lhc lhg'orhtLi]iruAdi|gyalhhc $v rouDd dr €d*s, hruC e. .or rcrfr'hNod'l[td,gdulsdth a hrtan op.nins larg sough itr uningoDomshighnd€sd}5dld 'ht lhio3ldlis si,lcor 'n! oplnE on Ih. *i,nlint pR$ knEhrsn rLlownes orm. dr ill coruE dago

Lnr grdlikc i,anner dEhlhrd nnd'

rer rrng s N.nrd \nh tai Fqr hEl hn horhs.dh{ $c curYr srdy dnlk klad,s rbl. torsil rrkE of idt0l lil.s of dinDq b6! nng ( l) l,Eparethe ror. bdlh3. rnd Lbins rith efErr.pin bsd's (2) \M1h Lhcq idrh dl 'l't 'dp{r:! dlg4dhgspudNlm,Fieq{L

!* r tnplat srl hoL6rospdLhE

w .",.& (.) &4 Fd 1e17l4ry@@pheb Mjbq'd.d'futt-h@ly@ tu (d)tri@ he d& wtut @ 1 sqEe M le) Ptdite ied at a ti lotu6 Md, a dbsonrl ft,ld i 'h! dE l[ft dd h, : sBo{lLqrr{ ranft t nr ih fold Rr ii,LduLl' nLgcs roflnns md ngh' sds la.ing. 0d hs k, 'h ratrl G)Pi,rhrhN,gh \\l$ ft s@n 1llol&. umrd uid.r Lds5trtrh b mdft dm3r, ir rrr. rs ,o *(m d. hindbs (Fis L0 tB)

(rt!m) ap'r i5 a rdddr rlutr.c lor qirs o) Fd! tl? !n h6 {'d d5. ddd prlc .okn, .mbrcidcq flos,

dk D.rptndtuhr h fte su|Ja. Fttk! $! 5lirdr6 r {@r ,/ (6@) ,ft,

FQ,1a16'|apbanirgrnircpr@ea

,)ms uil d $t brsiinrns ($nL ]in or ibbor hc f(dh. nEke a nnsle nich) irc sd qm bc rd. qr ," (t r.n) or moR hon rht knor. rtul ldl lm* b ganish JE bp, oi L\e ends€n be dsl h bolk h Nhih !a* L\ebPnirlbcdhPllr]}ihptrlkd 'nr.

O) tull Lhcs{lopc

nsh' idr dul

snddLhd Ldp'o 'h{ lLi'nei6r'itrg. or

riiiig bidirq ts an N.o'npLi otd cds. fnch arrropn'E ro! a d€d 'q1il( (r)rnE rbftls nun' *i l rh. rdgc ol fit top Tun th.exrs tnEoq'Ic.dgcb'n.fon(Fn denly for bindins (2) Pcpart 'ht

Fa 1013. la) L)nirs bhd@ pt€diaqarat, tatdedeatnet lb) ood Mybsecurenj|eh:s|opi|.En| s|lcdhqa|aehednJbziqzag

,.'i,,"..r,",,!",r'

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LT \

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FiE 1a 1e eeqhund at owQn tusisn edquttuE la, b, c) staisht ald srshtryeufrire het ate ha saead b dbp {d e t) 4ndedanddeeplt.wed

Fts. 1o.2o Batdet dsigre: la. b c) tuchhe sude qJtuitq ld, e) Free mtd qunihs

MAcHINE QUILTING

PRocTDURES tnh0c. 'lt p?ddtd ndnc. shrn inr.ibed dth nircr,i,gb), nd Jnd nop r rlr dgc, ard rins,hiid$lnhc o, Iill wnh r ,nrrnuD drDrroal noPsnrd

nabilted(roferro H irs on prg. 206) Macbinequiilirs dc{gB.r di .d h,o bad{s,oun.l(fis. l0 l el.bor f andtiluGrilc G+ 10.20), (Fis r0 zr). rod subdivid.d

2. Curhbri! hsiarorrh. rop, ,ddDF an a|lo\?nc. for s| tr! ldp ur'rr a hbdc.s{e orrLing 1001'trd . r,idrbd lisibr.rin! Ponb6 or tl[ dc4n rlnr rir tlsund $d cperd. r imlF.

o, no m rnu (Rdir rD.r B rtrq D.silo, on Pisr r0r ) t brgks

xdut'bel.lq {hs

1" Oo!m)rars Ju JouDd f0

a sPEadrhf linDsour.ngh, {ihllhbl!Lxr3(obqhb

suPPon ?llolnor olrlr hb n(squnâ&#x201A;Źnofi.luJj(wo'l' 4'.i h'l!r, fr ir ,t rh.J,,r.n 4i'n[llt!'d(l'bJtplig

&s$n'D{k'|g:f'fbNh3

rndm6.du,!rrb.r{e nr.hi|s ffchirc.quirrd suni'1c.bu il

niy b. ipPmPnie rnPlorl*d nrhft quil,nunquG rLtrrc

buldos raPn hbdn]8 dirrs.

Avoid bdting qhere quildng lin* ft rurked o! dud.d II rh! hhl€ bp c sn,ll.r ln,tr

ft. m,r. rhinenEiing'oP. b3ft

in *dion1

Epahg

rhenrekhhg,nd <

dns

plam.d ror th€ toF Relnk 'ht nachheqn.hinsn lhodb lh. elly movinsrheroFTbdring/rin norcment of rheroP4driienti in8 und- the ddtus needr a.o!.all, b:.kbund. andbor d( daigB frrh sftighr lir6. sngl6 :E rhemonsuihblr for (r) ooolr a pBq rootdB' $. quildng linq $i

E6.

suE dis0ne, Lrstr.hsp,t q G E{rud4 .nd L\d ticuh.lr whn ,ruihhglii6 aEloBb rre 10 13) Fiq 1021.D$isre in he mtin qtjiins: (a)Flqmttuemtits tu srbt laa!.sEl]En@|lo|gMngla'|lbhbe desiy. (b)t@!i,ed nends ,tuhks tot fltar k) Echa.qlmedspiat allheadsha@'|hiry|a|ise|lman|lerd|k:hhg|i119|'

pa,ldedsurlce 3,1,n& vithiD dE brdns Eight b t2 sraighrnirch$ p{

6l'E 6 .llning. arhch rlc .dsa ol rh. lining 'o rh. rour sidcbrF ot rhc fnnq rd nrekh bdwe! sideb$

b cenrer rhc b

ins ov{ rhe lin

up. ovs rhe b:fting Thftad bsrt Ein8 a lons or cured

I6ren fte lalcE rog.'hd wth $idr piB d 4" (lo.nl inr.r

Fiqla26Pdnglheldpbatnql'

rr, aqtrtr!r'itq dnL<r keaps|heb']katlhelqhatnqln' ( r) Lu\r

'hc tNd doaso, .n.

.rG.lnhLglanlhlnh Mxh 2nd6 ad 10th,ateh, B )n

|aqDs|adbve|a@jnalaraw2 b6trdbP/nltrlg/|Ld!]s

crPotrrn dr o/ofurt

parens ta) stth h6 acrcs thecentetr 61 tb) srbh abel

alrlr NC

, e

bn$bs $. norftN oI rhelalnic roa gn lMl nop. ffl,iilolthtdasi!!lih

b. k.kas

trnu'ng 'o iLdlr clipil

v--a

Lr"|6s rht b/hihgrhi'r8 hrs suppon.i6 Lleish,ndll hhdslhr ProBrc\Ycmdrr

nuiocquilKl r,PA hs/

ht qls

i,rtinhs

rorhrnghroirh.qnrrring liNr scun drcroll $rh 'mDr hnr. d! dirs orer{r ph5 .dld ,n3.hnmdbesEn rhercll fufundn'dlol'ftdop/bll thg4hmgb'htpr:CNhe]e

(l)su( by holdjngon 'o rl'. endof rhemedle rhR:d

quL'hgGbh.gnAlihe

Fig1023'Fa||reelalanquhng' handsdie.l|he|aplEnirglirirg ftps clt tnn tutuat otorestutp ti

rhrcuehthr rop/bartr'p/ (ts1g.10 nq).R! pkkrg. s

drhbn.undctun*dk lins qirhniidrs rhxrtr. rod(ft rh,ladbynirch.

l.nCrh b Lh! de!(d

al'{in! rhennish o$ird

,r,! fins.B, o ir the f'bri!

(2)rdlnJalh.orqdLllng

xnhrr rh. hbn.. fi"dtrdr! dcoo* r]t nrd, lcrsrl,

,o ,r lrr, or rhenehinewirh txtnsions. prledbly lcEl

qDtuhs@)raatbadinsttinids aeat di@rod€dhba@egebhabh

NorES& VARrArroNs aurc tf bl'llr

DsnrDs rqxrud

nnn.iornnmg/LhgD

FimoRrb/6rdng4h

rhe LnrirF (r) rEnd$! rrr {ndK; G) Lft dr rtrr r$ tu{dhq rod (r) quilL |]'h.frl(bp/bdn4'1D'

Hit

r, F-,

Iti::

LrI

ffi')

rdLs$fll.[ngl'oL.pirtd

,hs ro ,he r,nirs. o) $v Lh!b[i'B/li!4nnlq)

b,h| *nrn n]Rdrqurlr

la) DMe he bP, banhe, and rdne hta two s@.iansandjojn l@thsf ahet quttu$ the tid sedm. (b) cul he barirq tnta tutva (at thnd, and

i,g/LiDns , {tNmds

a f,!s&

n'ddrl! Ll" (:105on) qurr .]glhrD.lhlnov.f]on<lgi

bihnanrnnrs. Nd (+) quil, Ja}dJogl'ng]hQdnal!lLa' nurghr lN filtE bc,w&n rrguri

nldhs fu

n o\rinc ro rht

rx/,intd n lornr's !odtrl.r

mdhâ&#x201A;Źire|4I|ongllltdol-

ad. ro Th. Doubl! Btr'dtr'g [d8tFnish onFsr207) or d$io $ lu{,(FL3 xr:rr),o Pr!.n, r]I nrdrirg ar.r nnnk

atril' \rnritrr\rrutrlL L\plitu

rr.c. nr.hi,s lonnlonia t lNs

,ir.,lErd rr nkn,s.Ir,uL dr r4djui ro a mw 'is-

sfr o' 'hr

kd{ b .t

lrtr sAnms (riis t0r2l NtD

1,s! e. N, dr,r rdhods nr ,d l!\s

,lE Piâ&#x201A;Źitr bn .B

isr

(l) sr{ b:rlr uJ ddr nrnrosopi. nnch.s rDL,n"irnnl bcfoc ifLirrlnd dtrr io riis ()) oi 'rtr r.pdrlLrhslJe 't r r.nls olllr

rnd{{s.ddot0i*

ro.Ii

Ns m,l \ ci+r. n bnh mDrlh

rnaiL.d nr

10 r 6J$lts rin. n rrr

n p4 [-1

? 4

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llKi

bs( urd {ndrins 4

diffqtDr r,on rh,dilhrdrbr

ffi

Fs 14.2 la) A'bbT t6 and lb) tab ennedac baied b the rchl afua|anadDbb|.pbe|e3egrnq lo|helrirghanhgf\ned'ightsida rcad A) b re ot (d) srq baehel

d ipponmr

.f {rm; rnd folil

rRkoth]ngol|)''heliis/,litrg \th $c hcrtuB5ntrh$ (FiB r0'') rh. h

roPs.L i"g and lini,s fo, tb: {c *L 'o8dht.l.xvhg 'h. 'op ?dgr Iahi n& N' Mrhitu qut' sr{ nuld) foundadon.dosingtLeol.n iles in rh€Pocss (.ig ro.r4)

h/hms

n o€ or3n'6n

i1u B.,noddft.diqr\r 0) Prlnr d6rsn for nnps of t?5r.. (l) For

$! bsqh€. (r) (ut nnlrs ofrhe .llo*anft s. (1) sbnins (nrallr orar rh.l.ft cdsc,lar,h! lldnnp. kinmld bsi:c. riqltr3id! lp dtr

Fig 1a3 la) cpmwkdsisft ld) tackirstuahd.nod 6los9tbal l.) Assenbtednn|nodut$ ||ith

Es. 144

la) DxQr: td tabbedea\ttuetare. (b) sewhs and quirins a

hbs b 8ilhs (c) tunBJ inside $hk handstithks (d) arctNad uhdq ldp. srbhrns, le) eLpht hb searc, at o eov,4edMh zisae st:bnirc.

(1) Plac 6r nnn :r ovcr rlr $! *!rh. tourtabin nripsa li'i3 Lo3crh'(r) oP(n.P.t$ aod rlt.xarrioD ol ft nnrs rhd

qUhg3hj6o|]irinqandbp|ab|ic' stbhi@|ha|rsInceabdanfu|h

aadi')dd

ddso4at t @ rri\ed

rop ol 1i,. baft,3 Pri(

'"F

p)r1n4

ab4 .a-",

Lhl s(ond

buirr.ftd! fbu miio,- {nr+ nripsforrlretur nnFolb ing \{ith4j t|[ !d3s b be fa'ned hgdhtinid'lhbLl8hJlllaFr

(5) op€n r& {.ond sup rnd hgh'rr D6i 'ht ram. (6) conhu.

bdorslr.hrg (L) trlgDbl b6Lh3 (hetid olft rhre.rarsrd dgrr (1)$

rsh' sidsLlins.

aanunil'h.rrahe/hhlsdr (Fi3 l0 ri) (7) td

'lE 'nodulcs

trdhodi d$dh.d il .lornins rinrh rh. .dss w{r ddubtd bi hg Gcfu|Lo"Th. Donbr.&ndDs

liBl l'ninsnnP setrrhemd.Lrnrs €dssola tuurrablcsdp5and rhc bdrins losc'hd (:r) op.tr and

,''i:, ,'

t t t \

vvvv\

^4..a.1A.,r

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ll Stuffing STUFFINGBASICS sr!.fED arrrrJN.

SIL"ID

SrurFrNG

APPLIIU! ru.nd lolDLtiri5os rlnalkd r.)

NrNd

k, rrlldo'r,Giss

ins qunEdor arPliqucd5hrPs ro suide lulls' oI nultds trp of . n.rds

STUFFED

bol lonBlooush 'o

r ih uodld qrruE. r s, $diw blurrd lunug iedk or sk$.. d"jnâ&#x201A;ŹhtrcdFP(di|oht!

PRocrDURr5 stuiirs la) Datn)nelhe edees 4. lb) overcan and te) hehrabne

p$ln|gnu]]ingagdnnlh.{ann]

piat fo .n|h?s,\ \trh {ufiloq

or hl,ff rlu' h6 h(n ar b 5i{ GEftrb hnndhngDcisn'' 0' l]g! l0t) B& lrr DirLad roDhhn. ro hnns hb ,doaql ne b md. ldjr<ni

nunbs ino

llnruglDur Modd LrisL{dtI Ions Glsrtd arulLqu..oll5. sisqLa. puk wl sll.s) Mh |n'sc prs surc on rnc ouGid. r \dl 6 stu{t-

$ilrd

tr rrPltFel

shaP$ q hrlf.

lor .onsnor numng nFnhu$n

.nousr ror rr d.rtion F suFlYc

rioDhbi. $nh lnnd $Dg

(Fig rL r)

stifetJ qdtltns.tuiqts atie

shges: lo eadet. (e)Gndded

olru'irr5Jlri

iktuL

NoIIs €r V-aRrATroNs tor rlr! d$irn ir-i.\ Nr.rdlN autlls

rh! on

n(Llr,,hf hLrr L! i boor o

n,p.:. {Etf

rtL!j

dBao irLg LL t

thnlhL

HrnLnr rhr

Ards$ i,nl op.nns' { q(

sputrntrrt a.tlicr"s

rdd , r o,rr

linil]g and finm tr b

nuficd (.is LL+) Ifir!Pndid

( ( . 1 L n t L lgr 5 ) L ' r l r f s r rusrrirs b trJro Lh \ s] ! tf 'hr h4 brhDlrrhnrq(lrrd vdk r $duLnkrR' iLln fg \,Lh sh,inkisrrrd'ni$

ler

b fth

tr,l,ll

o,hs iNid! rh.

mddithelirhA'hldtrgl'hols

rrnrids in ,hl {ebn! ru'h r !* Jlr thr\ hlq!) rrir 11'!

nn.hhg. bdbr rhr m.lnDg tr

tornuffiq ((h)i,.ig L!5)

n,Nrrn,1r, (o n.,3 rr i) suidd rdhod ol yi,n nqroo

rc rr

Fis 11.5 ro lun srbhins-autinett sh@es undebcbbtl: la) stuh hmsh apeni@ brced be@n thteab h the @ve d the dns (b) PaDseto dDfl betuen the tay$ whte sli.hiret LnEhslr.hlre ztd 3tuhne 14 Pad wth

mrkdn?prao iLJIrd

R.xEEd d'rr.d {uirrhs n N.

rtu mng ldr ol 'h. lining AI'{ of fabr! sluLqb6rins bascrlr rDpovd Lh!ldns rhe rp Iabn! nc& ro ridgc ovd 'h .dss dI rlr oulln]ingl lul fdlldw\l|thc 'dp orrr rheourrinshu ,Lsorhc.oloF quihnsn.alkd sh.do* quihing risuis{i rbqtuund J bkkgFuod$mponedsbenefii non rdrrt&r!r,lJ.dq kiis.ab6.

Fb 11.7(a)Dsisn tat byeteds6ed qdtirs M atas hnbeted h adnnehstud lb) crd6 ir tayatrl

FI!11.6,Layfusfufldquihre qnurd dnead ta) th3 h€a,1heek andthebseraatat the@Mk lb) The'qigglesljn|ave|bpheCide (r) Toprcpatu'hronsinnd$icr. numbcr'h hregrcunddupc Numb{1h€niddk srcundshrP$

{ill app* ld bt b.hhd rh. fdE.

rh. dup.s. ({l cur rnd ptu amftcr Pi.(oflinjns larss th?ndr *l

frq b. sFlnirb No L.vds,or

*2 shrp$ whd $rchhg ri od

brkground slxDs *r ' Ahft nuffls. thse 5h!p6NilL,pptarro

5hnP{, tur b theber(3ndconriD.

rh. design{1) Trxr rheda,s! on 'n. nsh,sidcoIlh. bp {:r)Pin 'n lnins.d ll't{ Lh,n:llrhr:t shrFs und.n.arh lhe d€5iBnwi,h ,h. ,r 3haP$ s1ufirhroughdts rn rlr lhhg d {hmtrghop{h8' lefi bdo( finishnu ac du in nn.h i'g rrim (hee\ces rinint around

utuilrh. ourLimh notrrresun$. whm nuffhs .xrnd dr nrftmg

bilrsmund le!€k EN rlr rufiiru sFu shipG ldr rh lnr,g {ound rhe:r shrP.s(i) Rtp*r

a ;i

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)

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I ;"i

1,-1 *

5 T U F F E DQ U L T N G

(

STUFFED

dnon.,ndd,i,s r& ?tl)li$e

APPLIQUE Ran:llonifc

ro rr [{[

rlll)

PRocrDL,Rrs s u d t . f o r . u r o u 6 ( r r sl L 8 ) s'nh : hLri. sfc mrlci hcc Fis 1110l', b,.) Mottappld h

orroundaiofrilir. L|t( hrs

aFplntdrows thebasâ&#x201A;Ź edseora nutths.nnnLi?.rhclortrdr,on iplliqt i, flaa orDn hon

aPrriqu iL,ricrnd !r oul

illona!(

anoMnes sn@th\': ta) cip .ar .ave euNa and tb) ndtchcn@' .u!A.|h|eNa]sstwingshda| r\etoutine lc) crp ireide anstes btherab tne ld) r2pettnn ta the

nouDdrrrctrx.d dr bklebhd

nr.rr.n b\ trudrir,.ur

on ,ht f.t!d

drrin$.

adding

4Prqw rFi bul

app\'I. Ir.3ld'nd rrf liqu. or rrrbrlqiN

r {rriqurvLLh

rpprLqtri! !!u! (Fnrr !r)

,i?9,

p"Nn7z-q Fig'114DesilE|Usfuledapeliqu1 app]ywlhs|tfrifuhda,relh

, '

*ry

ta) sthBuchhs 'n dpptqa ltwdnas

wllnlwlrl

, 1

a1F sz s 4

?rF

s%#% srbhinaanaprrbu6:ta) fun car fusea|ch$ae,lhebujldqo|

\|hehtains a canet at b) an ircitu anste.ld) Bandsuitu thenee iEezrgle'al,aysB|Uni@|aa lâ&#x201A;Ź) swivd ||h tu needten the tundaid tat otu& rutues 0 wlh 4 sruftrrictrpprnL,Lc iftl] (i.fd k]'sllling. otrpag.],]9): . r n k r u p lL r r r r . h g 0 r t r f

ns,rrf roq,orDd iPP,qn. ,s 1112 Optiaretq mhtu 4ptique (a) satk ehb'a)derytooLlb) stbh Mh a Maow zi4s. (c)

Jrh r(r) f Fis rr Lr)

xpplLqut'hrcushasliLlur tnro appriqu.(b) i'r ILg ll lt. HaDd$s ,hEoFnin!ds.d

NorEs & VARIrloNs shaPslorafP|i]]u.F]y|j.* d.lrcatrd itrri.ft aik ikh' lury shrrP sr.rd( poin6 rDd 'lc$mrdv0816gihmtnu. $maLtollRncptrs tu sEi. $tdD||cng.sinplll.dlhrpa $'nh iJlqu{l fam ,lo\"n.* nL

ftd1) .x(ud whdr tu nlrGhd ondud Juplisrrs,h orisnul andpoinllor po,rtiwhN all m!.d odrh* m rn!*iLlqdn dntads ufdrmerh rhr nt ynn.h.d !dg$ or rlr arpliqu6i and!l,cn t|tfl{nddoo|rcuDJ1h{$I1ly Jndk{L'drclainslsdign dhEsnFs I|,n ?rf liqueis too

t rzd d!{ n,!ir,ryLqr. trr. prcrcnbl) simple. rnLsh'.+ed 5haP5 onro fab,n \!n[ i ldd!. s$yq and cDr4. ill nound whri

haDdld Alr, $ins a hlgt Qpl\ui r rhe foundrion. dnide

is\ \rh {nishr nt.hi,s. lollo{ ing o!,li!cs facd oD toP. B.tore hrlhhc \eah ard dry rhc.n.n lohdruo!tmlouEgcflr|nu fc.t)cd edseipl)LrN. bu rrsr rLE5t rhrn ,ardrd rPptiqu.: !|Gltr

r5prcbn l rhtftlor..dyd !,rLd oPPri4n. G $E.nu' ofrtr rr !!denr ssd

0nlRq?rh. prkrn

Ghn) a a(Dnd, cveDl.$ itrh. hrnL i$

mn ,o ,ht roldqi r nftish'sEh

'llou ancs. rr.?.rp,pfi p, rpoo rior ,*u6 run€d .ds6 dr .fr

Fie 1115.ta) sturins app@led

pelab|h|a!ghopdjhgsbbedased whenthe ced* ctcte is 4diqudd lb) stuttins liB cabt dtde hto,$h

sidcl, rhc fdutrdNrcnandfin aboY. rlr hbn! rnd all$! ro qn and dry b.lon osins Linc a !trn!d-aPPriquidsign dN

.ds$. .ur tr ,nu.h ol

posiblc whdr ic{rs rd ftc un cnl,rgd oudrne on r|t foundruor

shouLdb. nioorh .nd \ trhod i( ou,on r lDr He4 hondihc

ippliqu! tubnc cur ot. dins r *an xlowirc nound rtr cdgcoI rh. ldsr ofrhe p:pd. ruh rhr 560 ,Lo\?nc. tu ,he hekaDd pres Iim\, For apphqutrb be!trffrd

Fq trKrcd 4d atlJ.l apptiqk. turolftorhdDg

drded,4:

(r, L(r Fq.1116 D$b'a tDtdarkedand

'hr.tr'rt

d {.r

nL,r.,rdpfriqnsFu tronon r! Dg iri Pl&! 'h! liN'3 0\o 'rr

L.is Lr L3l hn' i,shr 'dr 0r Ll( '!LLll$L rppl'qui. (lJ nncLrtLre

trmlL:ld {{tqu.

Gr nLtrli (rr

l{.} -w-

|h '+rt!

0rr!L

nult ishtL\

looa appliqaI E ror n]l.rli rppl{f . {trllrns,lrougr orni,sr

9ptite

,ld.d

d nrttirl D nsnfdr

'Dctuth ht-4Dd l'Pdth

rll

x]4fu|pl@gewrh96fue fm4 e, e r€@5rufi4 @i@E5sbeb@ pBMd

u''_'fed e4Md

e6ftiB

S T U F F E DA P P L I QiT J

!+&i!n oppr@dh6 dridtdhP bI ft od sb dMg ,' hlde ne i{ Mr.€tah efawddie@tuttu 4i k a. ft e5d tu stuFr dNrhn

xLe rqrej.d 'tul Jss tu Je ,€,! !'4

e st\te 4 & &re

l@&bi9digseiopeMed.u!, 6 h tMd@ nP tsmad $@s dir dpp* b epe ft sd@dd tutd

ELEvATED APPLIQUE 'h dri;nl d.\

ongndnue!rd,!PqlB(Llr

GATHER.ELEVATED APPLIAUi rb

q/ salhe is ih

on cndntr,!

EdrsoNm ods (ris r ! 22) nlfr nto ert-

GUSSE'ELEVATEDAPPLIAU.

Fi|11.22'rgered'end!fien||fu|

PnocEDr,Rrs ho3hL!otrrt+,r simPl,i'hc brd.{ior

de|a|ed2pp]lqt.rheeancav€ed7e

(F,3 l l 1Lr).d

{,s' ! lTy!fLhr dsgD r. ro Lik Ll,. dtn{6 ll[r mL b. d.

--\

L-l t

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r Lhcrrc(F,! | lr)

a'r

,/ at L/ \! L

/'\ I

\ .;.;i;.;; I

;-<-

l -,,---<

i -

Figll19Arargennsa|stean

Gwe, oltr.ll

r b! 'h€ dficrcDc

1126 la) Ap|iqte

b 6e dev2.

tb) Apptiqu,; s6hed and sp@d \|th a Ine that 4ha8

onc ri& q R

adi!(d

i.ls.G),q [! llo rLJ k] Lt'!

Fie. | 21. ta)ladtpi

to be ekvabd

(b)Apprqle sr'shed atu sped b

h b! dod!J.

5id$ rl\ !d(n

,Lr. sidd!

he atbi

LobLlLsdlJb\

,df(\) b h{ d.\d.d 6 rh. il nnD) tLon' Ll'! uppDtr! e\prnd dE sid!(n h r dc

llu onsmlshall nr rlt p si b benrcd on nr toundrLotr

oD'hc tl{rnl

snhorrh. sus(

Fig1l27D,4hhgaquselfu|eb skshnq and spteadt4 ih't side al he tian4e la mabh the stevated edgea|lheg6se|.alhal|hefoo

ofrouDdriorhb'ir Llrtrlr blor

rflf

iw|qu!

onllDG drro

rtu!. aPpliqu. ind gN{r

hrrn! (oPhonar:trr(,rr

n?r

r,n- r!r[)

cr otr on ,hâ&#x201A;Ź

srE rh! d.\rid ?tl)Lrqu6 r

.'lrqsrheTprqb.aulinebils

( F i sI r . i n d i r s o , . r - b

Fb 11.30.ro qprqu-t a tund eah

nrlhbs Lh..nds bs(ho

ca'hFleL€bd awliqu6 ofird nul hlgh{ L\an th. nnicipftd d. urion prd.dir\ if $e ruffins ts houndd in rhe corti An iPpriqli 8arh.ftd all areund Ni nuf nno r mundrJ rom ro LeePfie middlc as nn 6 posibl. push &e nutrls dbg

rh. cdss rhn d4ors s h

aknough nuftlns nrdihs thr ptr.r dD8 soh.r'hi ro subdu. lhc pu.kctug, fprart haod sarh.nns lnh bobbin $ftid sRrhdhs: MR.hine5d.h or'{ rh. ouddc otr rhc rpphqu.. laftcr ford on rhe sdhenng sdrhs. .nd l@d qv to

athwe c1Dpedb anawsewhs ta heeqesdacjrc|jarapDliau-6rhe al|hebase]ircedqeo|llregBfub

boopoLlhft

lalgt enoushro

,xrd aPPritlu6 rhrcus[ dic .ur 'mo rlr. found{ion t€ld ro . nckhardPh rl[ g.s df rh. louftl.ridtr Loa Pzdded$dic. rhEraM.r:llor b .dol ,nd dry apphqut d$is!. bding dr

ro pr{ry. rhebowd.finrron oli su$fld$?bd ron. push r! $r.d dga aM rorncGup rnd du {nh rumns Dn.h rh.m dk! sn ftn8. Md flnrm and snDo r rn. ioP d sida \!nh dqside P(' surFoi lill up Rnd oPPed roo $nh a shdt of bnriu ind finEh Nrlt $uf ie liilernE(h. U* rh. roundnionsh.Pe,o lur eroush ol rh. d.v{ido r,ck rht hyrs roserh*roo$ly wnh oedl€,nd .ppl'qli 10'he lounddionsnh lh. baning ni.k Eide ro Lantshsh.! b r][ sunic fibrt. Pu5hnulfins btn.a$ l]t hRidnsrhfttrsha sln

lcn3d ol the comour on rrr nnp

Fm snran.lor rclicLrppliquisdr .ppliqu6 h d 16l onenn de urd cdg..!trttungrhroushi! opminsin rh. m.hrs rlur rRlh G 'hclPpliqu. $ rheloundadonts

.!cn\ ard conrol dr shspingoI

founddion. A ilsisn $ih n,n) dn.-.red aPPriqu6 b(oms lop h..ry nd i.ds a nurdrrsubnan ta| roundRridn Id! a bs€. such6 niII. he&l- hbriq, ba,lng prJdqr

concel of sdhctd or gBdLlYl Io@s b ri...n pd.hwoih r.sisns sd.d.d .l.mcds of ' d$ig! I e d.v:rd {rh erlh$ls or su$ec. nd'h och €ldnion b*ril ld a lLn rosdhs in Lh{ unDl, dshr.sidce fac s fdhior (Fie rr 12) ^fts tnmb\ rhedmtd ckn.trb m $urftd tnDu3hdns.ur No drr

cusd .onePb af mon dilfi cuh ro md.Ednd &rn rheois lbr

NorEs & VARrAfloNs 'rht

chora bdwee! srhcd

,rtur oldsisnqrret rtna, Dtru. m(d hy nhnh q,Peor rL.vrliotr ruuld bc rh mon ippmprile fo, th. dcLsn Twoothti hdoc ro

n, eroakdrre cheng$dtu.ldtr d LorLc'rdr o !don(L $irh x

'he cdg. oIa shpc 'hr mdchs rhc ba*line Mn\ nN.h 'he Elorr d lin!-urle$ rhc.d$ ii tutiln.

befrB) a smtl slhpc rnd fte cu$c .lldN lon fo| cd vrn, rionr in thenu[.d rtrip..]od srhenng

Frs 11@ F) PabhM* &siE1||ik Bttan lb) ftianeb wk Me ede

,ndsfd lersrl oLr]]. rt.vftd Li'c cu$cl. sn be dnlied rlm' {ill elsr en ipplqui o! a nanr. olnk aP-[ or,rth. *trh PE.

r]t d6n d [.ig[r afr- nutlbs oncrlnd rh. lbuxhLonNinh otlhenir M-suE aDJcu rah-

Figll.BHar.nfufuiEEnem|b ittLnultinsn rvilsrpohr

HALF-RouNDs

u Forrhefoundadon dt: Pi&e %/(l r,nn) Iron rlf n?rro{

*ltchd5ldebyside6tfomd:toi with *lffnsercofd beseen the

PRocEDURES

cr prp. hmrbo .drcrh. bek. {nh L}Phsrdshl p,Pd or.odft(ul

nab,lE{

aroundrheedss or by hali brs rla ift p*ilkl nrdrupr Ed,oY{laPPi!8, o! sk$v.d. Add rDd un$fird

*Rs, ior !,ikrl

b snh , Iahncgi. ndkhg odo thc foundnion-rhc.

\unb.i 'hr p{6 Loindicde$e srqnRrt or rppli.lLd! I'hE nei lElt mu ipphd.dus rh. lam alloranc ol rlE rEliotrsly

a owrn( bsrdeâ&#x201A;Ź:dr san

Lou'dn. rnli$

in,licned br rht ordo ol

ln( d6ign b

da. ha.hh3 suiddhs

Fis 113s la) ctuut at ti2nsutal d6@ts14and"3in|h3d6ig1 skebhe,t in ris. 11&. tb) cutu aibtnht tu hebht dhet sltiins,

:.ul

6 I a n I R P s c do r f i

s.w iLN nsr . tu n,n i rornrc (d) ir ris rr 16) 6. stuftrlt h?ltuDd' \,I'rr (rdq b !trfiils olpqr:/s).unn!

hrLlrouid or. g,!ur ofhnL

la) Rasta3f ip 11 h wrbn @) s'w sth t2 avq tha ad@ or skp *1 lc) ssw m gdsâ&#x201A;Ź at !tu ,3 a@ the edse be raundatbr td) Easotutnessat thg entu at the dtips hto the badhg sean. le) sew tianqlta, harratnd *1 h ptace b cr modr fton r hilr, dNd

h,trcu'dilb'lt&tgt

nm hrr , {rnd :r nsh,ndl

,Nndh,hrIN a,in so! rlf ftn 'dE ol Lh( lr ) r,i[:r! i,rL&! (]) EsL

rk n'llncs{ r]I um..,d orrl( hrlt rcuDd Nhi c siD*

'h! fou rbn \irh $msjun rno r& .,ds oLdr l ll (un1r b qE5rond qnh rhe ,h.nrdL.Jdlni

nrps.lollDsins rhl rumbfr&l {qum(ol:pplir or (b)

ii(h

NorEs & VARTATToN5 rhsftdlnry tne rourdnb! $dr[oraru.h'lfrouMLiB diih{.( 50addjnB hru rh€,liamt (tu ft ndilt b $€ hrlr-round ul half round A.tually rhd nu.h deyadoni5 too ouch lor a tn[

Fig11.93sinv||aneo!<||sewnu 7. Rcnor rhr rnporry

rcu

oi r 'rsign kriunn8 hnl Dulds tni sEduallr indes ro rha, hcigh! $'1r! sevinghalr rounds *rh non rhnnjz rh€roundadon vidr[ ddtn td rhc hilf mund nnP. .r rh..ndsoI $e nnpsin ar our

nabiue.

s, *witrg l]1t lining h rhe

GrliDe rhe*s haLfmuM hhi. ro dresPlE benED rhcbtsddrd sa, and,ncffi ,rrL{tuE rheseDd (Fis rl r9) sidetodr loundadon durinssewingan,l discoungs Hallmunds atu$(.d bd ftrll Nh.n rh. und.6idc ofthc loundR rion b+ns to buls€and curl up roo mudr nuffing shcn $3 nuuhu imPed6nirchins,irh r asubr rDishr nnch s.\ins Ioor or dr

nlltils ro build ul in hcishr. rhe $aro b.6!(n IEUnunds b.ne 'lj. d.dioE on eirho side mft, oared by rhecoDstudon smin'oabruade!chun€LAflr ssins lhc lKt sideof i hill tuund b plre, u. firt *.nlinloldlm ro g,ugei dnde for thc bpnidrins

Ratu.dnrip?iig E a Io$ rtld v.sior ofh,lf rcundsrr G siniltr b hllLruds in allr6p-c bur Nc An indnr for he8h' afhr stumngis not iddrd td rhc*ips or rbnsl$ nir.h.d h rhr foundadoi.

Fb 11.1o (a) Paten ta, a eraup ot rc hat tE seM t@th,q. 16)se||ira qn ordunrgnrd,L.<nEr

CoNNDCIED RoLLS

r rrfcdi

PRocrDURrs il tqd

dc ora.h rdF

$LhqlliLofLh!rdhli!'{L

ro, ud, Dlr oaillLlc

\!nh rh€naLl ,ide or rlI frb,n

{rmlD$ ( stpM!

r|t

LD!0,!,pl(b) n F,! rr-r0)

rr {)

Lh! sluulLo$ d dia

(+.n) nulLLtrg oprugr ui di! $rnt. trrnrq" 'Irrl b Lr" iro r!o) rp{' Rous:h{€r

dnnd.i rrrdirdr Du5 lN.d,fi.nadndd{5

osDlsslhrougl'Ikde.dlAl0 Ll

'sr m! onPag.zrq) rn,tt

4rr sds at stufrednk, la) plat, lb) sathetd lc) tanenhe casngs

fo i ddadrd nnra(rorr nncLrrhc.dss rosdL{s'h dr

NorE5 {r VARTATToN5

risrr sidcourri.forclufiing (G) n F,3 r1.{l surr!! r{,rL& hmd

onn dtrmtr for$. rbu1[.r

I0 rh. â&#x201A;Źsi,Ei rishrlr!!o!.r

d FA 1113.stutrednt Enatbs la) rcpstibhactassth6prgatddas. na. @ r@Ibh downtheeentetal

.quidish

fron, l]I rold su

nr !

n ntrtGd,{r(s

P(.Dtrr(d $'nrirs

inrorh. rir

nr.r rr sunacerck stuttedaa{ sewhs.15)

.lGns,hr.nds o{? nfttrd r0rl

a,Ds ro I r bickgtuNd rrbn.

(r).res rtDs hRakrrtr mus

lthbd[dhDd(jftrnull:

fk*cd n'br (r),i

Ilg It 1r)

(rtrprs{!tuduJi r $frlr' (b) ,nF,g 111+) Tdtr,s 1lr roLL

sid.ofof. fibri. s.r rh. *.oDd

$\ ,h. trtrnnffdalDsino,h. $rE iohnr*hn Pkc5 ofhhnc

L!: 6|iha|ehejghl'ch6oarcalElic nsasuenn||o,|henagneddqlh

: i ( )X c1

It gr.s.mddhlLmgkLnlps'

'hr hch (F,sLr +t) sd rlr

LrrrLE PrLLows r. $rtha hbn. nfr nririnsroDr. (Fig.lL 16l Edi4!

!i!h

PRocTDUREs (6om). dn!! anorlr otrdLn.

D.nr or rdjoill3sqndn!

11l(r rmr) ouFiderh.

,hrc4h sPrs bd\tor

d.frh r % (r r.m).*krd

&tg.r

Fis 111r RaDndtud ovatpatuns tu irk p aws:ta) Entatseb $tinad he)eht(b)pal@hs||it)out sean

bdNs

arjrNr

orhN

IaM la) sap6 with *iaaennb bp{ed nto tE .Drhe6 or the oiEnat aurira. tb) Pzr*re vlhaul

$drnght5td*bg.'hdPiD'h. (ond pic or L'tn. sln'Ch' !nd, br nrhinc ovd €ch ou! brl$L'lhLrB

on eihc! sde or ln.

ldtqude $'m alloNar€ NLen

allor an$ dngonrlL){ros.or

il\ -C

,fr'

andnalncGea.rro slu ,ns NtrhrniSh' !d{5 s'

rhE

nurr,ns rouodor ovrt Pitio$s

i -1i4 li

li ,,' \lt Z

Amns. ad Fm rh p'[ds hb d,elrller rE-phnn.dsmn.uon . Fofa do*d amns€ntit oI p lo\r \rh sdsln sid6 0) ro .d3$ , Nt Pn isdli cpt.hry .5 bdon sxins 'og{h& p{. ronsdr 1r) [4rip ]c cdsG qdhq \ih 'h) nirh$ iini' irr. D lbnr or hklud!'n

pillors Hrnd *\r rhc pillo\s qdh{ dln dn! rnipnildrc q;ruchnnh d6 coDnd nnth'.ndcdPil|or*xnhfts. r,ggdrdtrg. r kb5 (Fis r-51) \j.w*rc

.a Faat

4 ,. 4r6.t(.qa'a

@..po1a 1f;o>na

lht tN a|Lo\qn(s ]nd dI |.d oFrinss lnib. ir ir ]rk rr[

:T| tftft |

fronr.rh. ourr rinirgriL bc *iLLe

NorEs & VAffATro's

rcar-h|nich;sLthiid or ni.hDr O) nr,s nufiiDq,idd a r( nh(h{r by{]Nsdolr

vnh,ht ovqalrna of,l[ shaP.:

pr'.hu qk u aoFa'l

or {di+'

i,,d

lo\snllftlhmlghopnhgs

p Ld!+!rq\

(1) l,!

p.rl!r!

reighrrrrr lufii,s. nrd (2) rl{

li) ro( rlt ourrN$otdrpfun ma(y drhr$ \rdft rhRn4 (10.n)

o(1trc.

(:) Fof!a!h p!Ll,hol!

G) s$! rLr!fror (o ar Linrg !LLll,difiqcn, u':' Glmsn.d 'dingks, ransl.! ild olaln.

.!r out insidcrh. *rn diplh. 5qn iroran(, rnd rm nshrsnk orr G) ![hhs ru dBs a\ rhe

rdd ,h. snourr erioinrcd fro

'ht rc-|rann.drnns.ntnr For

orllr lorslds

(frg n 5t)

(l),\rurmLo8'L.ssinsbur

nnrkd d rlE lhLr*! G,s rrrs) (5) s,rrrsd Nkhoh throngh t6) uol*! iand{J ln,l. rillo$.

(Fis Ll tr) Br!x$! LLsll{([dg dtrhl,ftd rhrougMnrrr Gsng

prcrn d n ds-ih.d ror lir. piL

tr-tr

fvins rosdln orrrrlr d

.dgs

EredbfIaDfrEh*uieddev'1]6

Fs 11a la) D8i9ntat rdte prk$

h peehdes. (b) paneth will ssdr tu)rhe @hlet tc) Pâ&#x201A;Źekhotette

T PLLC\']

i o j rJard r.,

i.,: jid e !:

!=i::i

Brscurrs

PRocEDURES hlcargthcfâ&#x201A;Źo'$ch15.b,r$.

ibr{N " (2 an) h'gh..nlargr a ha r" 17 Jmr) squr *o 3 {" oo!m) \qN! rof i bsqi ,!' ( | :r.n) hLsh.$ln?. r r" O j.m) b&'orrr"(9on).Mr .ldns g(lr jdc ot llr l]s. ] ro Dl or

oLri!.u,G b dr nurr.d ro!! oa

+ as*nbl

ft Lis.uirsin , o\s

o! rhe Ndde (FiE l.is)

Loo*f,bn.,dra{d rio,i rrr pla'r Ccr{ b numos on

z riom Lhira raLniccur i b:s. to'

nF roq ol brNG iogtrhs qnh rrLqnrinssrosrd oD

bP hLnc. cu , brcuir lo. ndl

,n Lark rick rhr Liri,srorlr

Fo i Lr.ur I " (Z idn) liq{ ,DAh ford Prsr h s|h sid.

. .tr3Lisdtrlf,e.rur)li4q rn rrtdd

Pl6r b ad sid.

\ha, </- I

4f'

Noils

€- V,4KATroN5

!orr\' {urred ro 6hb|nh nr iou, ncssof a b,(u( n.vs Pu5h numnsi,norh. corids oIlh. s.wiq unnulled m{s ro sulftd size s{rion larg. con*rudions, *cdonss

b. rd,ncd..nd {urr

An,rkrnareardsP-dier nans Nnh pa,lcinsfdr a blo.k oI bt.trts (r ) DEv z crid ol squse norc bi$uiE Dnv 3norhrtgid of enla{.d squRasIo} rhcpkard lop df ,hl brcuiE Mrk tu prcn loc arouDd borhpanms (2)wnh, f$d!,ere nnks. rr. rlt gid tins Gmnr,ma and prd, F{rin8s onro $e lebnccut for tht b,* .nd lne 'or (:r) ssq rhc bp b Lltrba* Ph ,ni!h all p,nncr *aslins and rlat nrkmss D on. dn{'ion pld loradon RcPsl in rheoo$ dirt.non (Fig.11 tq) (a) as@hle €rh hiscuirLhFusha dn c( inro al&ugh rhcfrdnionarbiscuir h6 a squne ronndarion.{ plrlL o! eael)sidenso 3n:bl.sbGcuib ro Gc lbh non,squacb6e (FiE lL 60) Enliqlhe b6e pnb on. barrrhed6ir.d d$efion

Fiq. n *. ro quie sewa blocxotb@uxsta) B*e andbp Ftum Mbk. inenut'pb u*ur,, dth pt at l@rare m*Ed M sdntines. @ rq atu base,u'th.nrdqdh1|idmdhecwikinv*dpldba|mMbEfu| (c)sttuhedin iE @e Mrad s6 AddirronalExNrE and l.vels acd bdNq thebi$ui6, f.iviis sleded bGcuiBunsturrcdand crumd.n. and lurowhs rhebillowins hbnc in th. cenk! G.[e! ro sn6d36 fta bjscuirvenrnon rojurif) ,r1eEee, tner aE Edmsuhr lons ,nd slcndd but prumP Th€r aft .onnrud.d l'k bG.!i6 h all Esp(c bur onc

lnn.adolip].onderrsid.. only & .vo oppcirc sids lur pled5.,nd rlo$ pla6 arc alM)s ndncls

rd a sEas. pitdn.

dnedo!. inccIins rh.l.rstL of th. shdL lidG of rh. rcrhngl. br tht anounroI rh. d6r.d d.vadon

PEAKSAND VALLEYS

ainnlemss.hrq!a6edby6e

PnocEDLiRE5 lamlfu4l$i&onredhg s q u r k s ( F i g . 1 1 6 Ls )d L l r

asqnm

i l l h . d . n g d D E I i1

Fb 11.62.(a) Mth a mpas set b h Nk s tunEtrat base, dtatu3 tiarsE wih th@eewt sides. tb) usins he rhr nqnumrmr of on. 5id. oldr! rlrtrgl! (.Ls rr.62)

atbwance:, and circt$ l. ) 10mtk he nneB

sideor rLrcsqu;i. (Fre Lt 6l) {{rng nihnoE b lach rixt

per, Lqh,I F{k rh.Fnrs

nohcr'ddLea.f\lloruntr n.r pildL\ r rhLDrdl.don. ttrjGr rht ren nd. or lne Psr, Pohl Ar rht lrDal.ore( dr

Fie. 1161 @ sew tu site at he p$k ta anee& at the tuse /b) Matchand ew the rei srtu,andtc) thenen teavirsthe

ir. Lh! qNdr((a) nr.ia5 rr 6j

Fe 1t66 la) Peakssewn beehel

Nor[s & V,tRr,rrroNs Fa I I 65. sew tutapdks 4|elhel wth a sean ju* ro thc tdh ot the ti6t

l [ r b N i F L gl l 6 7 ) i o . d ' ! plh!trl|nqorfinull rh,lth6. libi !n frg

\tr. nrfrrn

6d) \rih ighl

p.rL |)l doi(s Ldjllor {(lr(g

,\n0u!Pa|\Lll{(lDNlUj

,"Lti:':

Structured

Surfaces

72 UsingDarts DART BASICS

r do$k']rircd drL. rcllk

SEau&NcDARr5rIMs

. .riP rh. rr,m!]l h" (lronr r. sN {nh ! sinal€drc:d $nor ( r ) r[ I r rnd or rrr rJobbn LhqJ b ft.nd ot rtr r(dlr knd (r) rtrrrhsd! rhc!(dle rdl!

R$\ Dd'h. tr(dl{Lnd

'rr! Lhr{dbsguidsr

rnsiDn

G) Brgu{trlhn8vih1ludr. ,haa,rsk gdhr i,r tronr

rhLh5LrouLdLr.dDstr lrrl( r,DL{i!h 'ht Lh'{d nn \rar

. !!hd' 5$m3 i dnr or rtr

nrlrkfto

rnsl. { fmdF ou,

SINGLE-PoTNTED DART mouthor$eVwhth s alw:y3 * poii or theV wh*e ihe 6brt ele

PRocEDURES r b. dtrrns nil*.d, dnfr l

!orrh. diir *..

nraichr,

niudurd ron aris rz o Adal)lor.ollh.lollo!Ltrs Lrnixr an trturi0n (or d.prD

dor Gr d.p'h) w l lulniuk

Ndei nlh ,ri! &4kd .ds! n n!'d, d[ di*

I&N{fu hl''l "' 4

,l d,f0,!irrr|a{d

(rr3 r2.)

a Fora shsh dar: (r) E{eod

rh. oPPosirâ&#x201A;Źedg. (r) aur

nor ns i/'(! snE) 5hon of 'h oprGtrc !ds! G) spard

ri'',u'sahtnaspuaFfuntor

a si@ledat 14 Ladlin andbgh ot thedaft.lb) Pauffi stashedn the dadkEghighla@bkdoppEib 6de6.hd lc) e ed beetBttha fufuddM@depk'dh|hedad e2M n d p'pet p'td. (4 Dantu cdsjd66padbgekdardEedga stuiqhtue m a pTet Bb. le) carccbd tu ttte tude1tttu)

(5) cur rhedac oFn. R6roE $e!qsl€hd}orja'g.ddd

(Fig. M). (6) Ton.I. &6 tibn onc.dgr thbugh fi. sft !d3€nd rcl€r *F Nder ,{''

(t)

'rrridr ondidr

d. d'djd

r.drmn6

ti. paftn' Ni/l nori rlr st,tor ruAurnnr c d€ oist. ddos rh. rdp.daogdrr dar a' danssilL irct.ft, a nE ddr6{iU Lr ldigd rrdd'4i

cur our rhedM. (5) Ab

the

(l) cormrins dc drn lin6,

l}.i,t

conroul (6) cll rh.

(2) surL $. ptts, sprntd by : disdnc. .qu,l to om I'at ft anoud oJrrr ,rai{d ddaddldqrj', b ' niP of paP4 vid. 4 Lh. b6e 6 th. epar& ,lans.(4),{b lh. lds of Gc

Hg'12ns/€€h.and.predpel|en trtur9wipt*6 ta)Paw.d fudelda|Mdepb'wlh|hedafu dabl m a papq patch lb) P'dffi "nhEc6bu6o||Edfudadg6

Ebrc the e'ics b rhrl prs

)

',,.,,

// aha,Deh,9ed5h;

\":).'

tve 1olrabht euidettustaharetu

du( inu,d .uNingrsuks

noFbn\

ri i,kc r fom

spx.dd:nr:(l)tk!Ll(!l

3i+hr 5ids on da s r ri. contr6: (l)rri!! Ltu5ilhor ( 2 1[ n l a q c , r s i h o r d r ] l l .tuu b r! orur,//Jv

tutridr$5 c)lnLrEL,hr!l6rnt Rrriremd\ drL ri{ 'JEonn ,I dr A.(d rJ.!l {orn c) Dnrd. rht nrhotr{r

rr,!(b, rqurrihs ,h r.DsrrN olrlr ilhour Ind eDlar[e lDls (!).d

doDr or bo\l (Fis 1.13) n i rIr to,r,( , l0 D ,r ,ri dl!,

drrrrrld LJd?ri,tiL/ri

qrrh.rirF.

o r r r r d r b ( F , sr : 6 ) r h . s . n.'rrQi+r.sidcdPdr,, hb

!Js!) 15).oFp{. Llrrj11,0,

I'o$ oDrlr rsh, rdt orrr hl)

se'is or prsr ,67) I'ordrB

ror Enred fonns slu\ncd Nih nul'iph ddi enlnlc and .qulEe rrodrrts rhe non pEcne aM di rblE Gsur6 stash rnd 3prtad li.s soft*h.a in bdweo rh. 8ks, :nd fin xrd erral8c-rnd .qui'. djdaht 6 r lom.a ndr r pE. . t r r l n el a @ r r r r h d f ndhod d{ add5aruund rh. dars 6 ( rcdmc rnid. lhEdnE lhnh ol rht Jancd form an cfi.( lhd

who dialrns dansbl 5rishins Rndspftadins.rrr $idrn dI rhd dciuL d.vdidn m,y trednid.d

sn r . .enenta, bdne :AbB ,a d t1Fdr4) b ant""ia4 tre,,"i.-

r. ftss rlr df6. dPeninsnr ian dro{'icsof'nnDcd dai6, l{st Prcs on r p,dd.d hondius.rheo. r poinrpft$, d'a ll aid rh. slnpins of rhe rabriclbrn Fhser pN darc 4. fo rirnl rrr .ds. or 1 d:ned rorm.hhd or firt rht cdse.tin. qirh a duplicdc or drcdan d rhedrtb. roslbilf. r orkr 5hap.ol a drhd lom sw rhr .d36 roa ba*.tr' fion $c

Nots & VARtAfloNs !s thr gfts.and{ tr nclnod b, advcmroE ruDwi$ daft w'd on. suidinspnhdple in riir tu lnoum rhord by dr d,'cpadi.€ frrh pap< ud n€ous! {rh rhc rabncro crc!. i:d fr,n nEish and dryhs dans Fdrgd riminins anddlon, de .(r3$ b b. unftnry mnbmd drhbiri) of rhendhod ex"torc wfunonrclGanisuc'U*lne r,tnirre Edhods b d.vddP Pr 6s b nn..dimedonil tdlc

rh. err cdg. \\rcn plfnidg rhe drb rora circularshepr rob. €nleq.d .od equalicd, ,noi. drtu Prcduc a motupdr.dly rouoded Idrm ,haDlss ,lans,andr nlhoF dn6 ro modd rtro x smoo(hty bundedIom rhRnr sl,shrlrcuning lrhoudr For drnpL. .v,l sLapsrcquir ooE d3r6d rhc

Tdnidtrnrnd rhc o,lss.nnd, quali:t n.rnod bdrq. risurlnc dr o+ilar pnhn lh,r. 6 rhesjthou dr dr shadoLv oI I ftrte.diEn ionarlom rnrsin€ rtr dric .ld idn or lo{.nns ftc Jea oI r]t pa(dtr shaPevhilt k(ping rhcoub si. .nd lhaPe,lh. si mddshdorq rn. $h. ro. rhn Erlt, s .onbr& ion ol dne b6si Pnn.ipt6 rpptr.s b dd rormrton: o ) rnl,Bontnr .'tualehalfrhed6ind d*?do/ dcpth.(2) rhe anroumol hbic Eno!.d bya din xr irsqidd Frnr Poim.(l) Afttr dnhjns rh. dcrc. rcflkr rlr shap.oI rht o.giid pi!

ry\L

siul. d:n Gl$h nl sp'!d) d'd dmN 1hl nor d rh.silhoudr (.nlr4 udqulEo aE Lhenoi Lhnr$uDdflllom$L Erp.d ld rsr r'!i ({ljtr{

hcl)td{r 'rt dc lul

.ddi.{hi!hlPfus

dinofbnnt.d \ludBtufa,hldns

{! add.J

rr.d

d lr

fri..

d..o]1. I

nrlltbr5r.

rlr linc n,d .rod ou,rronrir Nr!( (!lip {,d rm LINiqo oLllr dll0 !$rnrLLr td $ri(

rfrh. v,nishinglroinsoI nrn drE o! oPPqne q dF(' cdscs rcEsed

on rhe PrEn

an adiun

nof ldo,. (rhDg n( rpcxofrlr

v€rLasorsd. dars (Fis D r0) ,hQd5 0r rlre ntrv.. datu .o'v-l J(/ld nrDl !rry$ I nilhhsrDb

NirhnrshrirrnroB (r1 r2-sl

+_ Fis 12na sutuce tu6: (a)Fded b are side tb)AdtGtedar he @t@ tal nabhhs eds6 at thebse te) cnteEd avetthedad setu td) caerhaped pni4hns dsdhnned at lt€ basa

! N.LL fO \TEf

t,;i

@ '\i! @c lrft irt d! iic rj. oi qerari or ii!i. 4!Gq J!lporre::!horen3trri,/jd.af,! n,,'|Tl n. r tl rF1fldr lif,r ir!

,i 4 ri ,ra. A .r f f! 5:t.ti i n or ,:r . i/. r) i tu... 4 ; ia, t, t+r) r9r tu ral lsr!i,r:frr!r-r !.|t:

);||'!;|n

19 ri,Pr! i.q q.a a'tjl1,|

lrl

i \ril

ir,..t \r .rE:i..i r-,- ir rrni.(

li ri-

'_ ,!r!r r!

in.i fifir.ir.\

ii3 I rr'-ir!tf!!

Itf

!i!.r!,.

rirqti:i,!r-iicr

f,.ti.?

DouBl E-PoINTED DART

NroDs & ViRrAno\s r h r r r r r r r L r r d r L { r o r i n th bl!N r.lrL{tr lAs r

d..i,r\ h rLrr,, D.$orrrl hN. r

Fs 1242 la) Dobte @Dbd dan a Inpensa|e|a||1fu.|fravedbf rhed'd tb) cutuhe dad+Fhd

$n!hl]]llhLo|$*l!Nncd

(rLg lr L|.drqtrtr,gp!:nbn1

!k.?l.rrsd,naourrr( [n

scuu*clipping rdatu hrdrir prurD lakens rhenrms$ of rhe $Er! the dnn€nsionariq,of dr l,bh..dtr{rudioi r..rt&, dln panm', u{ gridd.dFp?i 'o d.!be ddublcpohrd dar6.combined Nrh nngL.poinkd datu d rhe ab. ndcdccc(od{.h'lanoniB

rhc dcigr dr 'hc 4shr d wruns sid. olrhelabric(Fis. 12 lr)

+ < > < : +

rh. wbng sid. oLlhc tabff pull rlr tabdcdovn ar fte ends.w]ren snlhed on lnEdshr side.th€ridbk tuldssuppdnh.igtu a, 6rh .nd (Rdd ro's(unng D:n sea'ru' on P4€ 267) ro €varuft a dan pnsqu,rcol hbric Lo.k ( bolh sida orlncsd.hcdioplq rhq willb. qunr dificrcnl M!6uE drehbric

< > + + > + +

8:84 ZA\ o:o:oVZA\V ++ A\v7x VZA\V A\ l^\ l^\

\VZ

Th. bctorcdd msurm.d rnd fie zfGrdai merurementreld a a ursd mqsumd.

Afiri nnchins

non h.ld jun abovc r fibnc Allor b coolanddry b€foremor ing.Tdlibil'zr ioddY,llr a.k r][loNpoinboL r rchctb r nrti Unrsurl fonnarions rtsuh whcn5l€ndqdansre *Ich€d Nidlh, and s.ulpd rLr Lcnsrl,. ilnedionoI rhedrc, rh. *p{& and\qons sidr nirchins.coin

srio6. rolil5on the surfa( become licun'i? daign .l.d&s ddn conspicuous. somdrn6. G,n Gt sulp€d &bricrhn undrrlirsrh.

!r, kirn !ri ji I , r , i,.1,i , {l rini rcFo., re +,iii,?!r. rt I it ! Gi d.,rrNrir{ ii! ne,!l Di,l! i I i .d, ,jdi r:!,,f i.., lii.ri.,ff

11hr) r,: t ceN1t. .1 lnr"r.-r-, di i,t gF ir int ro. r r.era J q4r ! irrlr I' r it ii: :nr. io. of, ri ilf 1i 5 !, r.: {trjn,r.,k r,i , ri - rfur rer,a.r! 4&n.! iG r 4s ad 5!llir.r r; i i4 r 5 r r.nr n

r,k',f

ai,lj.Nrir,h{/,q,

D O L ] E L EP O N T E D D A R T

rlrjir::aoiTLili:!''{T(roiNxl!i,.]'rdll d,n

Ai ir-..:.-

!i re lFr r. !,- er oi a! r;ni

DOUBLE.POINTEO

+ ifiiil oliJiui !@:r!( , !r4 j r? liqlr drr { !i b.rr 3iu:!

t' t Vrt

:tt l H

finH.tlJ.ri

+ +

l *

-t

*. *.

Manipulations

73 Combinrrtions TEcHNreuE VARTATToNS

ffi,,,W

rEiNJlo6

./ r4de.tshrd

,8ue he loh. qh tr4lki

r 5

. {n

lei,h.r,:-

hri h-.,,.r

it rs5 i n. r0!d!d l.F.

J rr.

isd

CREATIVECOMBINAIIONS

i .di

.r !11,r

r ?ir!r

o,-nli ,l,irderrrr

i&5:!.1'l(J!.r,rl:lLIl!2flierl(r4'riigl] 5i!-.@rr.uiiri(r

, .:f

n '. i:i,'i.

.i:clr-.,i-i.i

iiirsr.ir jl ]i]ifi

r -1

l ] i . . . .i . I

' ,.1. i

:aa.}8,

.'RJ' \$.

7 j:l

l;tit

-znS )r*"'

-1 .

i'+r.'l '^.

illrl plli

t1 tf iI

'1"

'*-t-

, --j,' '.r'

i" ,==

Appendix HAND STITCHES BAcKsrrrcH

becinningrcPhcingaLiotitheeid

trcm ight b rert (s*s a d re. toN f refr haided) Br is a threrdcd

lrmm) to rhe rcht of the emergrn€ thread tor an *n bac!'dkh, makei nrrh 7r'(6mh) on3mder. pmm) ii rrcft ot rh€ .m4s ng

br n3 r of y/ (rmm)h iron. Eri

Fig.Ai. (a)EEn backtteh lb) Har ba.kstuehl.) s€utiE wrhtuek

BASflNG

mrh re sdrchig (i) h Fg.A.r)rhe sdrhe5 Makis 2 nrth h" ( .nm) or z" (6hm) h front of the eme4 is thred rirtu the needrein@ the hbft %" (3mh) b the r shr ol the Fmm) n nont (b) ii FiqA r).For

rlgme.eightstyeod$e5ijfrh

b eri tss$ dr dn*oE f eri. handed).For €venbnting. make

OvrRaAsr SirrcH

lengih I b&kas n rront (h) n Fi!.A ) For unryen b6rh3,hk of rhe slrhce((b) n FsA-2)

LADDTR sttrcH

BrIN:DirrrcH

/'" lrmm) bcow se ar edge; mow ahad !" l6mn)for $e rc{

n]tchn€trcdicdlom'3htbeft (re86e a dredotrir €t.hmded).

sed rc aPPl46 a folded edse rc

righrrc err(rsss:rrdr4bN ir reit.hmded).Br is se ned e !P

bke a i rch Ln" (3mm) ong N de nd

r,,(rrm)

on3hsidethe

rt' {6mm):had.0d fr" (rmm)

ihe 4P q!€: rod x" (3hm)ahad nrhs.pullthethread hut (G) n

CArcHsrircH

(",,'.)-1 Fis A.4.Laddet*hh la) ct6ns

rrom left ro right (rd.*e i direc rm, ' eftnan&d)on rhewrcis

a nrd rf pnn) on3 is de . aPPLiqud! forded eqe.wrhdr ,/t" (3mm)ahead. reepis rte eme'gie th@d iu* uder.he rord ededseolthe!pP|iq!aAit{ir

cdch oie or irc ihreids or rhe

(b) h Fg.Ar).aid refer6 (oh

OVERHAND SrrrcH

TAIoR TAc(s

S PSTITCE

co*,firn hind nrh 6ed ro io i No folded or fiikhed ed8es.d.

tsrcrred rrcmr d'r b reft{r*e6e ar dir4oni if eflhanded) m the to reft o. rert rc risht To join M folded or finLhed €ds6. ali€nrhe

bedamagedb/othgmarkigab

edseol a singe-fordhm or fidns lldvin3 fdrErd 7/' (6nm), P .k uP nit hes.Fof q+ nit.h,,ngerh€ needre foMrd %" €mm)ii ihe

tuhd(.workryfrcm. shr6 rert (de&

(6mm),Prk !P M chdcdge@thel:bftsdeh*ih.

the Pd4n 6 the rish. side or 6e a drredoErf efi-hnded)

or thrce 6@d,

P! de thread geirt b s{urc the

be@$ lhe nitchs cis.Ar) c4 reno€ ihe Partsn To Fxk M laye6 ot abr c ar oi.e. lave v*t

(lcm)and

ihe dreadsb€ftei

SrABsrrrcE Rui\iMN6 STrrcH

iwo :d on, ( r) P6h 6e reedre rhe fab&. {1) tush rhe reedre ba.k myoutolihe|abrcsEh*tchigs

TAcKNc wdkins rrcm idi b eft (trEe r d reldos r hft haided). dd ihe

wte.sdthhngdddd]esPae

hands rthes. ofren 5Eb* tched,tha! join one e em.m b ano6s r coF

WH|PSmcHlNG

Gn.trN

GLOsSARY

e 5 ( 5 ) A n e m e b cm d w c c

APPIraur,

'e cr p po iis (6) colofed pfl.

(r)sma 4shaPede6r 6b' . (2)ro rdd

of fab

a 5mdrotod ot

ddeie6riibrrGs Percik madeby BercDw a shsPerofo qsss

BrAJ

(7)r{han c P$!

with

IlrM ArLo$AN1a 0rt&m

e d4 Nq{ 6e q ,E

(o4EheideosrhgEhoi6e

(e)a (r:ck Pssed hro rre toPwlh

BODKJN qe q a tuer'

IRoN

ft.hins berore r fades.(r0) re|8rhs 3r P.d$iqred to

FAcJNc

CRosscMlN FI\'6m Pluss

IINJNc

E.458

FLUTE

EDct:srfic f; (r.smm)froF a ro dd edgeo. sem|hewiththelabl.ishride4

FArRrc-SAEMAru<rar

nsier^rrr,5 r! hP p&m,nen, ren4o6/i./ ot' atnorc oi ,re hcnd€d fdbrr beto€ 4bs rifker hdude:(r) Pii4d dht/rsEd fordr (2) s! $o, nips md rcrh* in (r) B*.n8 md 6i *an a6hi.s ror 6.ks. t4J Bhckb@i chak da k

fa'twthrisksidesrog{he|

NEEDLEMoDELUNG FoL DATIoN

NPs

SrAYsflTcHrNG

SIABILEE -(r)ro aarc eadeGd*itd n3

,lls:ie.sd/nit h is p€Ena the edselrcmjrerhrigaid'whenrhe

NorcEEs (^) mrkh$

shghtsdthhgbymachhe

on the des of P*.

iedons ouisideeim rrokic*.

PrN MATCH

or rabd.rro 3ql G) ro addrrnre$

{shi 5ide or r€ sqsitched. rr. .

STAa[zER

STEAMBrocK, SiEAM

-rftr al rbsre, or dde usd to addimEs b hbdc ( r) ftmf-

PRrss

PREis abft r tEhed. (r) r€hPohrt

QurLr-As-You-Go

Mdhod oI quilthsthd 5ErE by

whkh eDlccE i6 smrllersegmenB

bondedbtheba.kofthefound&

latiom,adju* rherord:md ur a

areftlly bm aq/ nom the ( rhs

Drrc[ SnrcH-lN-THE

''hpquikisl apa*ment quikhsi' ftgered€b/6efo|dofadGed

RucHE,RucHrN6

STAY -{ )IoPftftanaf

P! adon

STRnTGIiFGMTN

rtmPoEr, hshioi wr tins, ottli

36birde.(2) s6birizii3hbft iurby

SEAMALrowANcE sPc beseq

$e cu! edse rnd

STR4IGHIoF rHE

lurr*ry undene theentrcm:dp- FABnrc lladdlrohedsebed3e|iP:d,| 3 a y u n d e ] e s ' h e m a n i P l l : @ d * ch i d d e d o n p a n e f t b y a | o n g ' tion ot the frbic.a round*ioi, a hc

SuForK Pu-.as G e, a sr p or 6bnc,Ep., of r bbon

SEllTDGEs LensdF; edsPsdw@i

rabrrc. 'he h6d of a Psied :migems9

hlhisboo|.s!tro|kPutrsT!eed

TEMPLATE

SELEcTED BIBLIoGRAPY BooKs !mUBbidgldqub|$doiol

ToPsnrcH btdFq:emontheightside or ih.6bf . rhdd 1r arc, u ne

UNDERST[cH -ro *ddr

3drthb, h&hhe

fa(erabrt.rld,(r.shm)frcmlhe ingrrcmrcningtothefrciirrrhe

th,t s.n.d appbpnr. b Ey ab. r.d and considncd r woih dr h. ifr ldutrdonerir c €c}niqu., id.x.oi.!cnrhi thrinq6€d 'hd roilss dosnt indude any of rh,lcoBEr or nd$1i3 mdi. 'han a skd.h or a d.finr,on inlilu.bh b hq bur nd {oud io juniry I rcftnn- rdr i.adds 10 !o6uh. r do mon,n.nd rhe londsns:

YtrkNtrh.!iqPt${AsUdD

frcj(r DFi{D

4 1 Dairb

Nlv rn!k, NY

D."s{ }i!

r{4 (ird ol r,Eir3

oli5"td

xr hnn.

\t'ADDrNc .o,Phr ts@rotvefu. !,i1r4 hd l}rndoJn!4

rh. F.dnds ofrn.

ti( tuh.n cd,kl. ri.er oiF .

Ndko4

rtrlroPrk

ti E(!roP..rk '.t vrhio

$rb*

tuDrrd. 6!d. &ni,n!hAi,

eidsre ohi N(rrso {

PublsdoN'hqoncimn'FbrLhd bIAwco9o].|!iddl33] cryq Gn.i.. {d Ho+$ Jnn.

."prk !'41 ul N.rdk.ril, N6! Yqk NY6edHoq{ksPinsb*519fl' Dd/ .n[ addsJo r{ rorD4k, NE:$]lNb|Eed]ryiln[ol10'+ Hdr. cirerF vGblsh 54 &!rrn,N

colbr &cil aliidn N$ Yqr. N _

r,.s4h!rhM.ul'

En'i r?r'j4 oI tunl, Dd(d dr 2d&i Brc*tn.N rkBooL$

Hub! Jsh,r

rnied bl aurr PubrLhq LDitrd,

cud4bm,

6yChdFcsd'Erfi'l96,ind

h€ po$b t6s ld lrrree.lime.sionomo.plor.n or fobrc gotherna,pcoinq tl.king shni.rl ond qu l ng wovef moleros-ore seem'ng v ende$ Io nes.rbe them orlwo! .i be ro descrbe ilre ent LAh n.rY 01selr n9 h the An af l'lad.otaung Fabttr,Co €lre Wollfhosser her serjls hs tosk.on.lshes!.ceedsbr Lonivw.* ng from m e s m p e j p o $ b e r o m o 3 o 1p e c e o f . o r h o . c o ir.ea.led .eede shec.teqo 2eso molordmensono' Tedr. q!es, sho* how they .re reoied dnd g ver ex.m presol vorot onsbo]l]nadil..o o.d modcm Theres!I j

on encyclopedoo1te.h.Lqleslnd roslno.e,resh.p'_ r6struc1lreond recodru.fiobric. v Moe rh.n 354dogcms slpp !,soiz€d l.1ob,.od llenec coteg.ret thonspeci:

v fondsomephorogo eres sh.w.os: lhe breolhl.r.e po$iblles n eoch ledrniqueo slond.o by emph.szngihe scupi!€d rbbn. slricc" w r iorrrond sh..low Y lexlie ofst5.nd qu le6, osael osoormenlond nome <leco.sewe6\'l erpon.lllre rdoslgnhlrzonswtrht'e o mosl idit ei eitech lrior con be och e!-.d

t.|koi/.|heihe|JLdr4o||h.c$fune

s B N0 - 6 0 r , 3 - a q ! t :

publications

ilililililt