Cosmobiz salon 09 2014 by Susana Lopez Riquelme

Application No.: 14/279,491 Name: BTY004

FUTURA FIBER COLORS: 1, 1B, 2, PFS1B/30, OEM4/27/613, OEM4/33/30, OEM4/33/30, WC1B/BURG, WC1B/30, WC4/350

BELLONA

HEAT RESISTANT FIBER

COLORS: 1, 1B, WC1B/BURG, WC1B/RED, WC1B/144/613, WC1B/30

FUTURA FIBER COLORS: 1, 1B, 2, PFS1B/30, OEM4/33/30, WC1B/30, WC1B/BURG, WC4/350, WC4/30/33, WC8/27/240

HESTINA

HEAT RESISTANT FIBER

COLORS: 1, 1B, WC1B/BURG, WC1B/RED, WC1B/144/613, WC1B/30

FUTURA FIBER

FUTURA FIBER COLORS: 1, 1B, 2, PFS1B/30, OEM4/27/613, WC4/220 OEM4/33/30,WC1B/BURG, WC1B/30, WC4/350

MINERVA

FUTURA FIBER

COLORS: 1, 1B, WC1B/30, WC1B/BURG, WC4/350, WC8/27/240, WC4/27/30, WC1B/30/33, WC4/30/33, WC1B/RED

COLORS: 1, 1B, 2, PFS1B/30, OEM4/33/30, WC1B/30, WC1B/BURG, WC4/350, WC4/30/33, WC8/27/240

POMONA

FUTURA FIBER

COLORS: 1, 1B, WC1B/30, WC1B/BURG, WC4/350, WC8/27/240, WC4/27/30, WC1B/30/33, WC4/30/33, WC1B/RED

U-tip X Weft

Tape-in Clip-ons

I-tip

SEPTEMBER 16 Events: Cosmoprof

News from Cosmoprof North America 2014 in Las Vegas, Nevada

68 Hollywood Glamour: Style Book

Recreate these celebrity looks using hair extensions and wigs

40 US Hair Extension and Wig Market

50 Industry News 66 Company Profile

Meet the sisters behind Biggs and Featherbelle, one of Baltimore’s booming small businesses

84 Beauty School Buzz 87 People ALL ABOUT HAIR:

22 New and Noteworthy

Get the latest on the hottest new products from top brands

36 Black Hair Trends 60 Hot Hair Tools

62 Trichology

Discover this rapidly expanding hair-care service

74 Color Trend: Pastels PRODUCT GUIDE:

26 Is 100% Human Hair Really that

Important? An industry expert discusses our obsession with 100% human hair products

38 Interview: Beauty Blogger Nicci Gilland 75 Men’s Corner SALON BUSINESS:

34 Business Tips: Retail Refresh 44 Salon Feature: Christophe D.C.

Get up close and personal with our featured salon for the month of September

48 Salons Around the World: Lucinda Ellery

CosmoBiz Salon is affiliated with Beauty Nury.

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Hannah Ku STAFF WRITERS: Tabitha Davidson Travis Johng Ria Villamin Kate Patterson CONTRIBUTING WRITER: Lonni Tanksley CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Stephanie Ann Chau ASSOCIATE DESIGNER: Edelson Llamada GRAPHIC DESIGNERS: Mark Joe Rañen Susie Koh DATA AND CIRCULATION: Ma. Elvie Rose Angurin Cheryme Badanoy EXECUTIVE MANAGER: Kwang Kim ADVERTISING DIRECTOR: Ellaine Llamada EDITORIAL OFFICE: 1010-A Westmore Ave. Rockville, MD 20850 TEL: 301-577-0606 FAX: 301-577-0708 ACCOUNT NAME: CosmoBiz

ISSN 2152-3355 © 2014 CosmoBiz Salon. All Rights Reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part of any text, photograph or illustrations without permission from the publisher is strictly prohibited. CosmoBiz is published monthly by BBIM, Inc., 1010-A Westmore Ave. Rockville, MD 20850 Application to mail at Periodicals Prices is Pending at Hyattsville, MD. Printed in Korea. POSTMASTER: Please Send Address Change To: 1010-A Westmore Ave. Rockville, MD 20850

The cover shot was created by Tatiana Karelina, Tatiana Hair Extensions in London. CosmoBiz chose this picture for the dynamic, yet sophisticated look. Oversized buns and side braids are well-coordinated with exaggerated white eyelashes. Photograhper: Mark Orlov Makeup artist: Beth Alderson Tatiana Hair Extensions London 33 Holland Street, London +44 (0) 207-937-1989 tatianahairextensions.co.uk

Editor’s Note

Actress and comedian Jennifer Coolidge once stated in reference to hair extensions and wigs, “Never bring it up if you think a woman is wearing either. No good comes of it.” Really? Well, it’s time to start talking openly about wigs and hair extensions, not to hide them. Do we hide the fact that we put on make up? No, we put on make up to look more beautiful and want others to notice it. In the same vein, you shouldn’t hide your hair extensions or wigs. Rather, reveal that the great length and full volume of your hair is created with hair extensions or wigs. Let others know what you are wearing just like when you comfortably tell your friends what cosmetics or perfume you use. That’s why CosmoBiz was created: to bring the culture of “don’t mention it at all” to the surface and to leave the negativity behind. We pride ourselves in providing a reliable and useful source of information on hair extensions and wigs. Let’s openly talk about them! Now, I would like to give you a little tour of CosmoBiz. As you may have gathered from our title, CosmoBiz covers the topics of cosmetology and business. In the cosmetology section, you will find information on upand-coming personal care products and hair tools that our staff carefully selects after extensive research. As a leading magazine on hair extensions and wigs, CosmoBiz brings in experts for the latest news on hair extension and wig trends, hair industry analysis, and market forecast. It will be interesting to see how our readers will respond to the article, “Is 100% human hair really that important?”(page 26). For those who are looking for

a new business idea, “Trichology, Next Big Trend in Cosmetology Culture” (page 62) is a must read article. We will have new hair extension and wig products featured monthly to highlight the new trends and to offer advice on how to create celebrity looks with them. In the Salons section, we showcase successful high-end hair salons in the United States and abroad, revealing their keys to success. This month, we are very excited to introduce Lucinda Ellery’s hair extensions studio in London (page 48) and Christophe Salon in DC (page 44). I would like to send a special “Thank you” to Tatiana Hair Extensions in London for the beautiful cover image. On the business side, you will find the latest national and international hair and beauty industry news, categorized by region: the US, Europe, Latin America, Africa/Middle East and Asia. In this debut issue, you will find not only news but also in-depth analysis on the world’s beauty markets so that you are able to better understand the recent developments in each region. For beauty professionals in the field, our section on news and announcements from beauty and hair schools and cosmetology boards will be helpful for keeping track of current events in the beauty world.

“

n behalf of all of us at CosmoBiz Salon, I would like to extend a warm welcome to our readers. CosmoBiz Salon is a monthly beauty and hair trade magazine specializing in “wigstensions” (wigs and hair extensions), non-surgical hair replacement systems and salon business. CosmoBiz Salon serves hair care industry professionals, including salon owners and hair stylists. As reported by the Professional Beauty Association, the hair extension market is rapidly growing; the number of hair salons offering hair extensions increased by 28.5% in the last two years. CosmoBiz Salon seeks to satisfy this growing business community that includes both hair professionals in the field and hair product companies.

We hope this little tour has given you a better idea of what CosmoBiz brings to you. We would love to communicate with you! Please send your opinions or questions at news@cosmobiz.com. Enjoy reading! Hannah Ku

Events

COSMOPROF NORTH AMERICA 2014

osmoprof North America 2014 was held at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas from July 13th through 15th. Organized by North American Beauty Events, LLC, a joint venture company between BolognaFiere Group and the Professional Beauty Association, it is the largest trade show, encompassing all sectors of the beauty industry. There were around 930 companies from over 40 countries in attendance; the stands were splayed throughout the four pavilions and exhibited a plethora of products that will soon be available in stores. The new products were divided into 4 categories: cosmetics and personal care packaging, contract manufacturing & private labels, wellness and spa, and professional hair, nails & tools. In addition, 10 coun-

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

tries: Brazil, China, Italy, Pakistan, Poland, Spain, South Africa, South Korea, Taiwan and Turkey, were invited to the international country pavilions, where both buyers and international exhibitors could explore new opportunities to expand their businesses. In the Discover Beauty area, beauty products already established abroad but not yet marketed in the U.S. were showcased. Within the Discover Beauty section, high-end products perfect for upscale salons, spas and retail stores were featured in Discover Beauty Spotlights. Check out the companies and products that made it to Discover Beauty Spotlights. (The entire list of Discover Beauty Spotlights is on page 19.)

skin, hair, scalp, nails and lashes. The Hair & Scalp Conditioning Treatment delivers potent micronutrients to both the hair and scalp to recharge and protect from daily stresses. A rich blend of essential oils—Argan, Rosemary, Lemon Peel, Lavender and Sweet Almond oil— work together for hydration. All products are natural, 100% vegan, certified organic and contain no chemical extracts or dyes. www.mygroh.com, 1-866-998-7173.

The overwhelming trend this year has not deviated from the path of natural, organic and anti-aging. Natural hair and skin products made of organically grown herbs and fruits were popular among attendees, and more products than ever are claiming to have certified organic ingredients. Anti-aging was the main theme for a majority of skin care products, reflecting women’s never-satiated desire. In correlation with anti-aging, anti-aging scalp and hair loss/thinning treatment products were gaining popularity. Here are three notable companies we picked that showcased hair thinning treatment products at CPNA.

HAIR THINNING TREATMENT PRODUCTS CRESCINA HFSC CRESCINA, developed by Swiss company, LABO, contains a core of patented Crescina Re-Growth (Cysteine, Lysine and Glycoprotein), which helps promote physiological hair growth. It is for topical use and recommended in cases of thinning due to physiological causes. Each Crescina HFSC 100% vial contains 3.5 ml of the preparation and should be used for 5 consecutive days followed by a break of 2 days. A minimum treatment of 2 months is recommended. www.labosuisse.com GROH GROH was founded in 2010 by Dr. Marvin Hausman DC, CEO of Entia BioSciences. GROH’s Ergo Boost Complex system provides nutrients to your body, inside and out. The Daily Replenishing Supplement offers nutritional support for cellular health and stronger

IGROW If you invest 20 minutes a day for 4-6 months your hair will grow back magically, claims iGrow. Apira Science, Inc invented iGrow, a revolutionary, in-home hair growth system, that provides full scalp coverage. iGrow’s proprietary Low-Level Light Therapy (LLLT) technology utilizes red laser and LED light diodes to effectively stimulate and energize cellular activity, causing an uptake in the natural function of the hair follicle. With the headphones attached to iGrow, you can enjoy music, TV or other entertainment device, including PlayStation and Xbox. www.igrowlaser.com, 1-949-854-9900. Along with the three day trade show, special events, educational conferences and social networking programs were provided to beauty professionals with opportunities to learn about new ideas and social media trends and to broaden their networks. For entrepreneurs in the beauty industry, Mark Cuban’s keynote speech and Q & A session at the PBA business forum gave positive energy and encouragement to attendees. Cuban, the “Shark Tank” host and owner of NBA basketball team the Dallas Mavericks, pointed out that passion and effort to know competitors and the industry you are in are crucial to success. He said, “your presence at this forum at 8 am (It was a breakfast business forum) tells me that you are passionate for your work and ready to learn more.” Mark Cuban recently acquired three beauty brands: Hot Tot, KissTixx and Simple Sugars, and is enlarging his business territory. Cosmoprof North America 2015 will be held in Las Vegas from July 12th to 14th, 2015.

Events Jabu’she: Successfully landing in the Asian market, Jabu’she, the Swedish skincare company, is now ready to meet North American consumers.

One of the “Shark Tank” hosts and successful business owner, Mark Cuban, shared his business experience at the PBA business forum.

HairUWear exhibitors posed in front of their booth.

Brazilian company, Jacki Design International, Inc., showcased adorable hair brushes and powder cases.

Pureness. This all natural, all vegetable cleansing bar is enriched with kasu, a fermented rice product, and enhanced with essential oils to improve the health of your skin. Nano Cyclic Cleanser PINK. Cyclic Cleanser is a balanced blend of natural ingredients and NaNo Silver. This special formula helps deep cleanse pores and reproduce new skin cells. Based in Italy, Enzo Milano showcased a new line of hair styling tools expected to come out in January 2015. Boutique, a sampling station, was popular among beauty product savvies.

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

Calling herself a sales queen, Sandra represents Bangs to Go.

Educational conferences and special programs were run throughout three days. Every style, every groom, every cut, Andis

Discover Beauty Spotlights BATH & BODY Ayres ayresbeauty.com Daily Concepts dailyconcepts.com Me! bath abcbymebath.com Simple Sugars simplesugarsscrub.com Spongelle spongelle.com Thymes thymes.com COSMETICS Chiara Cosmetics chiaracosmetics.com Manna Kadar Cosmetics mannakadarcosmetics. com HAIR AND SKIN CARE Balanced Guru balancedguru.com Briogeo briogeohair.com Cozy’s cozyscutsforkids.com Dr. Lili Fan drlilifan.com Glycelene glycelene.com Jabu’she jabushenorthamerica.com Salon in a Bottle saloninabottle.com Sciote Skin sciote.com NAIL Bernadette Thompson nail Lacquer Collection bernadettethompson.com Londontown londontownusa.com SPA Ila Spa ila-spa.com

Boutique-Glossy Box from Cosmoprof is waiting for YOU! GLOSSYBOX, the most prestigious international subscription beauty box, collaborated with Boutique at Cosmoprof to offer sample boxes. Our staff carefully picked 7 deluxe beauty samples from 20 featured brands just for you. One lucky reader will receive this box. Please email us at news@cosmobiz.com with your name, address, and phone number. The winner will be announced on our website at www.cosmobiz.com. What’s inside? 1. HAIR THERAPY – Deep Conditioning Steam Hair Wrap 2. TEADORA – Nourishing Bath & Body Oil 3. Big Sexy Hair - Hairspray 4. Obliphica – Treatment Hair Serum 5. Dr. Myer’s Eye Infusion Illuminator 6. O. P. I. – Nail Lacquer 7. Karora – Moisture lotion

Events

NFBS 2014

Some of our favorite products included the new Circle Extensions from the Tabatha Coffey collection by Lux Hair How. Lux Hair provided a demonstration of the product, and we spoke with President and CEO, Michael Kleinman, about the advantages of this type of extension. Our editor, Hannah, tried the product, which was basically a two-layer weft attached to an extremely thin, clear rubber head-band which blended in seamlessly at the top of the head and added volume and length to the ends of her hair. Hannah says the halo was comfortable and felt secure on her head. The Circle Extension comes in fourteen shades and different lengths (10”; 16-18”). Lux Hair suggests stacking the lightweight Circles to create desired thickness. See this product and others at www.luxhair.com. Sensationnel by Hair Zone held a lot of floor space at the event this year and showcased their LIVE Brazilian line. This exciting new line presents your clients with a more economical price point, while taking every step to

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

meet the consumer’s preference in texture. LIVE is also Keratin-treated and protein-infused which creates softness, health and luster. Check it out at www.sensationnel.com. Janet Collection by Beauty Plus featured the handtied, invisible Deep Part Lace Wig with styles as long as 28”. They also showcased the Deep Part Mamamia wig and the Natural Bundle line of extensions, a six piece bundle in your choice of Brazilian (extra long lengths), Peruvian (Keratin complex enhanced) or Malaysian (natural, silky texture) styles. More information on www.janetcollection.com. It’s a Wig! also featured new styles, including the lace front Remi Touch collection which highlights the on-going ombre trend in several styles/lengths of smooth, multi-colored hair. Curly, more natural looking styles were also hot. The Quality Wig Plus, Remi Touch line is also new and also includes smooth, ombre styles in short, medium and long lengths. Find out more on www.itsawig.com. Harlem 125 by New Jigu is excited about the Human Diva Curl package, which includes thirty-one pieces of 100% human hair in a bundle package. It’s a piecey, short, tangle-free hairstyle which comes in a variety of colors. Executives said this was expected to be a hot-selling item in the near future. Find it at www.harlem125.com. The event, though not as well-attended as it has been in past years, was nevertheless a success. We were easily able to spend the whole day browsing the hottest hair trends from top companies, being treated to free manicures and even sampling Korean coffee.

Images courtesy of PBA (Professional Beauty Association)

he annual NFBS (National Federation of Beauty Suppliers) event for 2014 was held in Newark, New Jersey, July 27th at the Meadowlands Exposition Center. The event was well-attended, drawing 1,000 participants. Major hair companies displayed products, both best-selling and brand new. Summer braids and short styles were among the most popular looks, but extensions made up a large part of the product display for each company as well. Bundle extensions, or hair packaged and sold in bundle form with less processing (virgin) at a more economical rate, was reported to be the major trend of the season. This is expected to remain the hot item for some time into the future.

Hairstylist of the Year - Alain Pereque, Saco Salon Drummond. Montreal, Quebec: Photographer John Rawson

Master Hairstylist of the Year Anna Pacitto, Pure Salon. Montreal, Quebec: Photographer Ara Sassoonian

Avant Garde – Jake Thompson, Lunatic Fringe. Salt Lake City, UT: Photographer Jake Thompson

Images courtesy of PBA (Professional Beauty Association)

ANNOUNCING the NAHA 2014 WINNERS!

Men’s Hairstylist of the Year – Paula Pereira, Solo Base. Toronto, Ontario: Photographer Richard Sibbald

The Professional Beauty Association announced the winners of the North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA) on July 13th, 2014. More than 3,000 beauty professionals attended NAHA at the Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino and congratulated the winners of NAHA 2014. Alain Pereque from Montreal, Quebec, was announced the winner of the top honor of NAHA, Hairstylist of the year. NAHA is the most prestigious photographic hairstyling and beauty competition in North America and just celebrated the 25th anniversary of the competition. Here are the winners of the 8 distinctive hair categories.

Contemporary Classic – Sonna Brado, Jaazz Salons, Inc. Spokane, WA: Photographer Alec Wilson

Haircolor - Chrystofer Benson. South Weber, UT: Photographer Joseph Cartright

Salon Design Zolton Salon and Spa. Scottsdale, AZ: Photographer Brad Reed

Salon Team of the Year - Van Michael Salons. Atlanta, GA: Photographer Babak

New HAIR PRODUCTS CLEANSING CREME BY PURELY PERFECT Purely Perfect’s Cleansing Creme calls itself the “un-shampoo.” This brand new creme highlights one of the biggest new trends in the world of hair care—skip the shampoo and conditioner and opt for a cleanser instead. So if you’re looking for a different approach to clean, one which could improve scalp and hair health by keeping those natural oils your skin creates and opting to eschew detergents and sulphates, then this Cleansing Creme from Purely Perfect could be your new thing.

R + Co Hair Care Line Garren, Thom Priano and Howard McLaren, three of the beauty industry’s go-to names, joined forces to create R+Co, which stands for Rogue and Company. The line is substantial, to say the least, including twenty-three products ranging from hair wax to dry shampoo to mousse. The entire line is also paraben, sulfate, gluten and petroleum free.

Haircare Salvation from Dear Clark Already known for their successful Dallas salon, Dear Clark, owners Holly Dear and Kaycee Clark recently launched their own product line under the same name. The new line, which Dear and Kaycee have dubbed “salvation for stressed hair” includes a resurrecting wash, resurrecting rinse, thickening balm, smoothing elixir, and finishing salve, all made of ingredients from the salon’s home state! Dear Clark boasts a holy trinity of natural ingredients: aloe vera for moisture, sunflower seed oil which protects hair from UV rays and heat damage, and Rose of Jericho, a plant which offers rejuvenating and anti-aging powers.

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

New HAIR PRODUCTS Harry Josh Pro Dryer and Flat Iron Celebrity stylist, Harry Josh, recently introduced a dryer and flat iron carrying his name. Reviews say the tools have uber smoothing ability, and clients like Giselle Bundchen have released pictures of themselves using the new line. Their mint green hue doesn’t hurt either. Made in France and available exclusively at hairenvy. com.

Neuro 3 in 1 Styling Rod by Paul Mitchell Paul Mitchell added this 3 in 1 styling Rod to its Neuro collection in July. In an age with everything from smart cars to smart boards to smart houses, why shouldn’t your curling iron have a smart chip? This is what Paul Mitchell has tagged “intelligent styling.” The new styling rod features a 1” rod for creating loose, beachy waves, a 1.25” cone for “natural-looking” curls, and a smaller 0.75” cone, for creating ringlets. The ultra-smooth, durable titanium barrels reach a temperature of 450 degrees Fahrenheit in just seconds.

Nuance Salma Hayek Wave Enhancing Styling Swirl Featured by Allure magazine as one of the best new products for curly hair, this Styling gel by Nuance comes highly recommended by curly-haired chicks. It is the ultimate frizz killer, and more importantly it doesn’t leave your curls crunchy.

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

hen buying a style or a tight, curly style dress, many conthat requires daily maintesumers pay little nance with styling products attention to the percentage such as hair gel. (In order to of cotton the textile conkeep the shape of the curl tains. But when it comes to tight and for it to return to hair extensions, consumers its original shape after it has tend to zoom in on the perfrizzed out, the hair must be centage of human hair. It is able to absorb and release a commonly held belief that moisture freely.) However, 100% human hair is far betwhen a client wishes to have ter than a mixture of human long, straight hair or a long, and synthetic hair. In constraight style with a small trast to this, industry profesportion of the hair waved, sionals say “100% human 100% human hair may not Blending the right proportion of two be the best choice. hair is not always the best or three different hair fibers requires choice.” A chief designer for a hair company known for After human hair is collecta high skill level. producing the highest qualed from a donor the hair ity Remy hair had this to say about human hair extenmust be treated at a factory before it can be used. First, sions, “Depending on the style, how long you plan to the outer most layer of the hair is removed by a series of wear, in what type of environment, which methods of acidic chemical agents in order to smooth the surface of styling and so on a proper mix of synthetic hair fiber the hair; this process also eliminates unwanted residues can do better than 100% human hair.” and microorganisms. Imagine peeling away the outer layer of an onion; the two processes are very similar. 100% Human hair extensions work best when a client After the chemical bath, hair is then bleached and coldesires to wear a short to medium length straight hairored. After the hair has gone through all these process-

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

es, just like your own hair after being heavily treated, it looses thickness, body and is prone to dryness.

believe that percentage of human hair is the ultimate standard of quality for hair ex-tension products. Marketing efforts have focused on the purity of human hair as opposed to advocating the advantage of a golden mix of synthetic and human fibers. Eugene Park, the executive vice president of Oradel, a leading wig company, says,

To compensate for this natural result, blending small portions of the synthetic hair fiber or organic protein hair brings an optimal solution. Human hair absorbs moisture from the air in a humid environment, causing any waves created in the Yaki texturizing process — hair is pressed morning to loosen by against a net to mimic the look of relaxed hair. “Our own hair grows the afternoon. When in different thicknessyou wish to establish es. When you look a longer lasting wave, some portion of the hair extencarefully, one person may have several different thicksion should be able to repel the moisture and retain the nesses of hair growing from their scalp. Some are limp; shape of the wave. Man-made synthetic hair does exothers are strong. The biggest challenges for hair comactly that. panies are to find that golden ratio of different fibers to mimic our own natural hair according to ever changing If a proper proportion of different synthetic hair fibers hair trends.” are mixed, they create a supporting frame for the human hair fibers; the hair is then able to retain its style A similar trend occurred in the textile industry quite for a much longer period of time. In general, the avsome time ago. For a while, emphasis was on 100% erage consumer is not familiar with the different syncotton and marketing strategies played up the quality thetic hair fibers that are used in the modern market. standard.When consumers started to realize that 100% The fact is that not all synthetic fibers are cheaper than cotton was not the best for all styles, the focus changed human hair. from type of textile alone to type of textile in combination with style. Consumers eventually realized that a • The Cyber hair, for example, was developed by a blend of cotton and other materials, such as polyester, Japanese company, and is well known for its superior quality and its use in high-end toupees and women’s wigs. • The Ultima, developed by the Kaneka Corp. of Japan, was originally manufactured using bovine based proteins. Since its structure is recreated to mimic that of human hair it ab-sorbs moisture and curls in a similar manner to human hair. In some aspects it feels better than its human counterpart. • The Futura, also by Kaneka, is a high-temperature hair fiber that can tolerate high heat styling tools in a similar method to human hair. Contrary to public belief, these products can be as expensive as or more expensive than processed human hair. While synthetic fiber is used mainly for economic reasons, it is also used because of specialized functions that make it capable of fulfilling the customer’s needs. Despite these facts, hair companies have failed to educate their consumers and have driven the industry to

CONTINUATION. . . provided the optimal results. Recently, an NBC affiliate in Richmond, Virginia, Rachel DePompa, aired a news story titled, “Is your weave faux-real? Bargain weaves may be a hair don’t.” Depompa stated in her report, “…the right hair is human hair. Most human hair extensions fall into two categories: virgin hair, which is completely unprocessed, and Remy hair, which is processed with the cuticles intact. Remy extensions are considered the gold standard, and prices start at more than $100 per pack.” As the report continued she introduced her investigation, “Instagram has ads offering Remy hair extensions for less than half the price. Is it too good to be true? Armed with a hidden camera, we visited several beauty and wig stores to see if Remy hair extensions could really be purchased for a fraction of the cost.”

DePompa thought she had struck gold but then found that the extensions for under $20 were not true Remy. While Brandi Covington-Windom, the woman interviewed for the article, stated that “It’s not going to be presentable, so pretty much you’ve wasted your hardearned money,” we think there’s more to it than that. While the old adage “You get what you pay for” remains, the question of “is the product truly inferior because of human hair percentage” is still on most consumers minds. No, a $20 package of extensions is not likely to look as good as real human hair, but it also won’t look as good as the perfect blend. It’s common sense that as the quality of a product increases so does the price. It’s the same with cars: there are luxury cars, but there are also economy cars that are luxurious. In line with that, there are some hair products that are luxury products, and there are some that are economical but still have luxurious qualities. One company executive said, “We try our best to make Remy-like quality hair at a price range the consumer can afford.” There are different purposes for every product, and the longer lasting, higher quality products are going to be more expensive. However, it is possible to get good quality, long lasting hair with a blend. Depending on your style, real human hair may not look as good as the perfect blend. A frustrated beauty store owner, who wished not to reveal her name, had this to say on the topic and on DePompas article, “Even though reports as such may dampen our desire to promote the hair extension market, Rachel’s report is based on the facts and is mostly right. I really wish hair com-panies, retailers and hairstylists [would] help consumers to turn their focus from 100% human hair to each unique function of [a] hair extension product.”

Curls form and retain their shape better with the right mix of synthetic and human hair fiber.

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

What the debate comes down to is that, just like in the textile industry, there are different materials that work best for different styles, and sometimes it’s best to mix it up.

New SKIN CARE Kiehl’s Micro-Blur Skin Perfector Smooth out your skin’s texture with Kiehl’s Micro-Blur Skin Perfector. It is a lightweight skin smoother that visibly transforms skin in seconds, diminishing the appearance of pores and fine lines. The Micro-Blur Skin Perfector is long lasting and paraben free! During the day, use it over BB Cream or UB protection for maximum results, and during the night, apply it as the last step of your skin care routine. Apply daily on your entire face for a smoother, poreless and healthier looking complexion.

Clarisonic Sonic Radiance Brightening Solution Unlock your brightest complexion with Clarisonic’s Sonic Radiance Brightening Solution. It is a skin brightening set that helps rapidly fade and diminish dark spots to even your skin tone. Skin’s complexion becomes more radiant and youthful-looking than ever. It has an Aria/ Mia 3 cleansing device with 3 varying levels of sonic speeds: delicate, universal and powerful. It allows you to customize your gentle cleansing experience to address specific skin concerns. It has AM Skin Illuminating Cleanser, which you use in the morning, Skin Renewal Peel Wash for the evening, Brightening Activator Serum for treatment and the Radiance Brush Head that helps remove sebum and surface-level pigmentation.

Jabu’she Eye Intensive Age Defense Shiseido ULTIMUNE Power Infusing Concentrate Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate is Shiseido’s latest product that fights against signs of aging, environmental factors and daily stress. Skin will become smoother and more resilient making wrinkles less noticeable while complexion appears to glow with more radiance. Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate works with your skincare regimen to boost its benefits. In four weeks, notice improvements on the firmness and resilience of your skin. Apply during the day and during the night after cleansing and softening the face.

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

The latest skin care products from Jabu’she North America are finally here! Jabu’she presented products that fight our most dreaded beauty problem: skin aging. If you’re one who reads, works, and stares at the computer all day and stays up late at night, aging around the eyes may have become a major problem. With Eye Intensive Age Defense, Jabu’she promises radiant skin and less noticeable fine lines around the eyes. This lovely crème product contains Jabu’she’s patented formulation, QAL-100. It is the core ingredient for every anti-aging product they have, and has three active substances: Lipoic Acid (Thiotic Acid), Acetyl Carnitine, and Coenzyme Q10. Jabu’she has been noted by The British Journal of Dermatology for their skin anti-aging formulations.

Not sure synthetics can take the heat? Never knew synthetics could hold a style? Not confident synthetics can make a statement?

be FEARLESS HEATHEAT

CURL CURL

LY LY FRIENDLY F RIENF DRL Y FRIENDLY IENDL Y

R ETENR TEIT OENNTION RETENTION RETENTION

Optimized for heatfor heat Optimized tools totools 377˙Fto 377˙F

HEATHEAT

LY LY FRIENDLY F RIENF FRIENDLY DR L Y IENDL Y Optimized Optimized for heatfor heat tools totools 377˙Fto 377˙F

& & CURLSOFTSOFT CURL

VIO ER VTEIL RE SATILE R ETENR TEIO TE NNTVERSATILE NSAVERSATILE RETENTION RETENTION The bestThe curlbest holding curl holding Soft, bouncy and Soft, bouncy and of all synthetics of all synthetics natural natural lookinglooking

The bestThe curlbest holding curl holding of all synthetics of all synthetics

FLAME FLAME

RETARDANT R ETARR DEATN RETARDANT AT RDANT Awarded the highest Awarded the highest V-O classification for V-O classification for flammability safety safety flammability

Look for FUTURA to ensure you’re wearing hair that’s:

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Heat Friendly—handles any iron, from low to high settings* Soft natural-looking FLAME FLAME SOFT SOFT & &&Versatile—

VERSAVERSATILE VTEIL RE SATILE VERSATILE

RETARDANT R ETARR RETARDANT DEATN AT RDANT

texture, soft and bouncy

Curl Responsive—takes a curl, holds a curl; longer curl retention Awarded Awarded the highest the highest Soft, bouncy Soft, bouncy and and V-O classification V-O the classification for for natural natural lookinglooking Flame Retardant— highest safety assurance flammability flammability safety safety *Manufacturer recommends heating temperature of 380°– 400°F

Revolutionary heat-friendly fiber from kanekalon.com/futura

New COLOR / COSMETICS

L’oreal Hairchalk One of the hottest hair trends of the year, L’Oreal loves the craze for bold and brightly colored hair. L’Oréal Professionnel Hairchalk will be launching in salons and online at the start of November. It has 8 vibrant shades for a temporary splash of color and style. Hair chalk is easy to wash off; it allows you to change hair shades as often as you desire. What we love about hairchalk is that boys and girls with light or dark hair colors can use these babies without bleaching! And you risk no damage at all to your hair. It’s easy to apply and washes off in 2-3 shampoos.

Cover Your Gray Cleanse & Cover Hair freshener Hair can grow fast and reveal those white roots even just days after dyeing your hair. Conceal those roots with Cleanse & Cover Hair Freshener by Cover Your Gray. It conceals your gray roots with excellent coverage and is easy to apply with its brush. If you’ve heard of dry shampoo, this product works just the same. Cleaning your hair by absorbing excess oils, hair is left clean and smelling fresh just like when using a shampoo. It’s alcohol free, so it will not dry your hair, and it also increases volume. Just use it on dry hair, tilt the brush and dab directly to the hair. Using the brush, blend evenly to avoid getting darker spots on your hair.

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Maybelline The Nudes Palette A new eye shadow palette from Maybelline will allow you to create infinite eye shadow looks… in the nude. The Nudes Palette has 12 shades in bold beiges, sultry sands, brazen bronzemms and over the top taupes. Do mono shades, duos, trios and quads—the possibilities are limitless! Shimmering or matte textures, this palette has the variety with light, medium and dark tones. With its 12 shades, texture variety and limitless looks you can create with this palette, it’s almost hard to believe it’s affordable and available over the counter. Discover the beauty of nude makeup with this lovely,compact eye shadow palette.

Revlon Colorstay Shadowlinks

and create your own palette.

Here’s a new treat from Revlon that will spoil you with eye shadow. If you’re one who likes to change from color to color and bring it along with you but don’t like the bulk, then say hooray to Colorstay Shadowlinks! Mix and match your preferred set of colors. Eye shadows are individual allowing you to interchange them

Out of 30 collectible shades to choose from, you can either create a palette of your favorite colors, or create your own color theme! Interchangeable shadows easily snap together or come apart, making them highly transportable. A variety of finishes are also available, from matte to sparkling metallic eye shadow.

Smashbox Photo Finish 24 Hour Shadow Primer Looking for a miracle product that would keep your eye shadow on for the longest time possible? Then say “Hallelujah!” to Smashbox’s latest shadow primer product. Photo Finish locks in on more vibrant color for 24 hours no matter what activity you’re engaging in. It’s resistant to sweat and humidity, and doesn’t fade crease or smudge. Just apply a thin layer to your lids or to the entire area where you will put your eye shadow, and wait for 30 seconds. After which, you can apply your favorite eye shadow and expect the color to last longer than usual.

beingTRUE Finishing Touch Brightening Pen Having trouble with dark shadow coverage? Finishing Touch Brightening Pen is just the product you need. Erase those signs of fatigue, dark shadows, and fine lines with this cosmetic product. It leaves your skin radiant, clear of stress signs, and well protected. Just one click of this age-erasing pen and you’ll notice a more natural appearance to your skin. This brightening Pen is formulated with botanical-based ingredients such as Goji Berry, Kalparine marine extract, and Pomegranate.

Too Faced Cocoa Powder Foundation Antioxidant-Rich Matte Rose Petal Finish Too Faced Cosmetics introduces a new powder foundation that’s oh so chocolaty! Cocoa Powder Foundation blends into skin with a weightless, plush-matte, rose petal finish. It hides imperfections and improves the appearance and feel of skin for perfection. Cocoa Powder Foundation, infused with Too Faced’s exclusive Cocoa Complex, is antioxidant-rich, oil-absorbing and non-drying. The exclusive Cocoa Complex is cocoa powder and cocoa butter that work together to hydrate and smooth the skin, and like edible chocolate, boosts your mood. Cocoa Powder Foundation has eight shades, with medium to full coverage that’s undetectable. It also has Hyaluronic filling spheres, Crystalline powder and added pearl powder to give you satisfying results that’s at the same time, good for your skin.

Business Tips

RETAIL REFRESH

tylists and salon owners alike know that retail can be an incredibly effective tool for growing your business. Customers rely on your expertise for styling and caring for their hair in the salon—so why shouldn’t they rely on you for the products they use at home every day? Introducing and giving her access to her favorite shampoo is just one more reason for her to keep coming back. And yet, if you aren’t the personality type who loves to recommend products and talk

about them with clients, then retail can potentially become a bit of a burnout. You might feel like you’re being too “pushy” or “fake,” and those are valid concerns. No one wants to ruin the bond you’ve created between you and your client by trying to force an awkward conversation, but there are ways to relax the process for you and her. Try practicing these 5 attitudes for a refreshing, more authentic take on the retail experience.

5 Attitudes for a Refreshing Retail Experience BE CONFIDENT! If you’re going to talk about a product, you’ve got to feel it. Your client knows you, and she will probably sense your insecurity if you are unsure of yourself or don’t sound genuine. Speak like the expert you are. BE KNOWLEDGEABLE! Speaking of being confident, the best way to make sure your comments about a product have some depth is to know what you’re talking about. MiladyPro, a leader in online professional beauty education, recommends that you spend at least 30 to 60 minutes each week on retail education. Keep it fresh by reading up on a product or brand or do a memory exercise to help you keep your facts straight. A former boss once told me that giving your client even a small piece of knowledge about a product increases the likelihood she will purchase that product by 70%! Tell her about a special ingredient or benefit that is unique to your favorite brand. BE SELECTIVE! Having a lot of pretty bottles on the shelves is not enough! If a client can go to Ulta or Sephora and buy the same products featured in your salon for half the price, she probably won’t make her purchase from you. That said, think about what you choose to stock. If you’re an owner, select products exclusive to salon retail. If you’re a stylist, then

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

think about which of your salon’s products will be the most beneficial to promote. It makes a difference. BE NATURAL! One of the most important things about retail is the way you come across to your listener, the way you present yourself and the way you are perceived. We’ve already talked about being confident in yourself. Now let’s focus on what the retail world calls your “selling style.” Often, taking a very natural approach to selling can be helpful for those who don’t want to feel like they are pushing a customer into a sale. Let the subject come up organically—after all, you are using retail products on your client during her session. Let her in on why they are good enough for your salon! Personalize the conversation by telling your client what will be good for her hair. BE YOU! Finally, tell her what you like about a particular line or product. What does it do for you that it could do for her too? If she picks up something you don’t like, suggest something better. She’ll appreciate your honesty. Telling your client about a product that means something to you will make your guidance sound like good advice coming from a friend— and it is. Remember, she trusts you!

New NAILS & BODY CYCLIC Victoria Non-Toxic Nail Polish CYCLIC by Lunese is a new brand with a range of nail and skin care products that the environmentally aware and chemically conscious person will surely love. Get to know Cyclic, with their unique products that promote health and protection of the environment. Let’s take a closer look at Cyclic’s water-based nail polish, which is made with mineral pigments. It’s environmentally friendly non-flammable and odor-free! The mineral pigments strengthen the nails, giving you a healthy set of nails, and it also protects your nails from harmful chemical ingredients. Water-based nail polish, as might be expected, doesn’t last very long. Cyclic suggests applying a good topcoat after applying the nail polish.

Vitaman Foot Recovery Gel with Grass Lily and Menthol Walking all day can tire your feet and cause them to smell, possibly creating fungus and bacteria. To relieve your feet and save them from further skin damage, Vitaman brings you Foot Recovery Gel with Grass Lily and Menthol. Grass Lily extract promotes rapid healing of the skin, and it hydrates, moisturizes and relieves skin irritations. Menthol cools the skin, helping your feet to relax and freshen up as other herbal ingredients work their magic. Foot Recovery Gel can also heal small cuts and abrasions and prevent athletes foot.

AHAVA Body Cooler Skinfusion Set A set of three products that gives skin an extra boost of hydration. The ingredient list includes Dead Sea minerals, vitamins and plant extracts. The Body Cooler Skinfusion Set uses all three ingredients for a cool, refreshing experience that provides your skin with pampering moisture. Your skin will be supple and protected against environmental damage. Body Cooler Skin Fusion includes Mineral Hand Cream that protects and smooths your hands. Caressing Body Sorbet, which is a cream gel that provides pampering moisture to the skin, and Mineral Shower Gel, which is mineral-based and provides balanced daily cleansing and hydration.

Jack Black Cool CTRL Natural Deodorant with Zinc Salt and Grapefruit Extract Another product to keep your skin fungus and odor free is Cool CTRL Natural Deodorant by Jack Black. It is an aluminum-free deodorant with odor-blocking technology and natural anti-bacterial and anti-fungal ingredients. This natural deodorant features Turbo Wash aroma, which provides a long-lasting refreshed feeling. Zinc Salt eliminates that awful smell that fungus emits. Grapefruit Extract enhances the effectiveness of this product because of its anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties.

Trends

BLACK HAIR

BLACK HAIR TRENDS: Relaxers are Out, Natural is In and Weaves are On the Rise

he economic recession has been bad for many industries, but in the case of the black haircare market, it’s as though there were no recession. Seemingly recession-proof industries like the auto market have been crippled by the economic crisis, requiring a government bailout to regain their footing, but not so for the business of dreadlocks, kinky twists, wigs and weaves. The 2012 market report by research firm Mintel revealed that the black hair care industry has been humming right along to the tune of $684 million and is only projected to rise through the year 2017. Even Mintel has had to admit that its report is merely scratching the surface by covering sales from major retailers and mass market brands. Once you get under the tip, a much larger iceberg is revealed, including e-commerce, independent beauty supply stores, weaves and extensions for an estimated $500 billion dollars. Black women’s hair has long been tied to issues of assimilation, status, desirability and economic viability.

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In the 2009 documentary Good Hair, Chris Rock used humor to discuss this very real phenomenon. However, a very interesting twist has developed in the story plot. Black women are still spending the dollars, but more and more they are putting those dollars toward brands they believe in and styles that embrace their natural hair texture. Society has long dictated to African-American women the aesthetic they should be striving for, but the natural hair movement has turned the industry on its ear, and black women have begun to create and adopt a new standard of beauty that demands a market that caters to them. One very telling market trend has been the fall of the relaxer. The “creamy crack” has lost much of its addictive power with relaxer sales plummeting 26% since 2008 and being the only section of the market to drop in sales, according to Mintel. Mintel also points to another major shift in the attitude towards natural hair styles, with nearly half of black women considering natural styles to be “trendy” and “daring.”

Weaves, wigs and hair extensions have enjoyed a steady growth in sales due to their ability to complement the natural hair movement instead of working against it the way that relaxers do. Many black women—even those who primarily wear natural styles—enjoy the freedom to wear straight hair styles, and weaves offer versatility without damaging the hair or requiring a long term commitment. Social media networks have had an undeniable effect on the market, with blogs and YouTube channels devoted to natural hair providing a resource and community for black women free from the influence of mainstream media and commercial interests. These forums allow women to share styling tips and recommend products in an environment where natural hair is encouraged and celebrated. Travis Johng, a researcher for BBIM, notes that the influence of social media on the black hair care market can be a bit of a double-edged sword. BBIM is a research, training and education institute recognized by the Ethnic hair industry. “You have a lot of gurus in social media who have no formal training but are regarded as experts by their followers. It can perpetuate a lot of misinformation when it comes to proper hair care. It’s great that this community and support exists, but I hope that women who rely on these social media outlets for information will focus on the community aspect while maintaining some perspective.” Johng also notes that one of the most important things to emerge from the natural hair movement is that it has allowed Black women to take charge of their hair. For black women to be knowledgeable about their hair and better able to care for it is a change that can only be positive.

Blogger Interview

skincare routine that helps fix things you were self-conscious about. I think I've always known on some level that how you feel about yourself can totally change the way you interact with other people, but I never truly realized how dramatic the effect is until I started making that something I thought about on a daily basis. Q. Who/what inspires you? A. The biggest inspiration I have to blog, and to keep blogging, is the online beauty community - people that visit my blog, other bloggers and the forums that I'm a part of. There's always a new trick or technique to learn, thoughts to share about our philosophies on beauty, and of course gossip about new products.

A DIFFERENT FACE, with NICCI GILLAND This month at CosmoBiz we’ve been getting to know beauty power blogger, Nicci Gilland of www.adifferentface.net. Nicci was featured as a finalist in Allure Magazine’s Beauty Blogger of the Year Contest for 2014. She hails from Lexington, KY where she works in IT when she’s not busy giving her readers in-depth product reviews. Nicci’s powerful online presence befits her own shopping style—she does her beauty shopping online, tests the products, and then lets you know what’s what. Here’s what she had to say about everything from starting her blog to her brush obsession. Q. How long have you been blogging? How did you get into it? A. I'm relatively new at blogging - I started mine about a year ago, in June 2013. A few things were happening all at the same time that made me want to start a blog. For one, I was getting to the point where makeup wasn't just about covering up my skin problems - it was actually fun. I was also talking to a lot of women in beauty forums who didn't start using makeup until they were adults, like I did. We were all looking for products that were high-quality and a pleasure to use. I love trying out different products, and it turned out I have pretty strong opinions about a lot of them. I decided to share my thoughts on my blog, and maybe help other people learn by doing that. Q. What has beauty blogging taught you? A. Blogging has helped me realize that it isn't shallow to want to look and feel your best. There's a lot to be said for the confidence boost you can get from wearing a bright lipstick for the first time even though you usually try to blend into the crowd, or nailing down a great

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

Q. Do you have an area of expertise or favorite subject to blog about? A. I love writing about anything and everything beauty-related, but I definitely have a soft spot for brushes. Not only do they make a big impact on how easy and enjoyable your daily routine is, they can be absolutely gorgeous. Q. What do you think will be the nail/lip trends for the end of summer going into fall? A. I'm expecting a lot of nude/natural lips, paired with a fresh-faced look for the end of summer and a more dramatic eye as the weather turns colder. For nails I think we'll see lots of metallics, especially in deep jewel tones. Q. What is your favorite part of your face to highlight or accentuate? A. My eyes, definitely. I wear glasses all the time, so I like to give my eyes a little something extra so they don't get lost. Q. Do you have an incredible salon experience you’d like to share? A. My hair is curly, and for years I couldn't find someone who was willing to do a short cut on it. I finally found someone who would fearlessly chop it all off and she's not afraid to tell me if something just won't work for my hair, either. I'm definitely not an expert on hair, so I appreciate having someone who will give me honest advice. Q. What salon/spa quality product do you recommend? A. I'm a really big fan of the EltaMD skincare line. Their UV Clear sunscreen is a staple in my daily routine, and the Intense Moisturizer was a lifesaver when my skin was severely dried out from acne medications. I also really like Pureology hair products; they're extremely gentle, which is a must since my hair is fine and a bit fragile.

Photo courtesy of www.adifferentface.net

POWER BLOGGER SPOTLIGHT:

Market Overview

US Hair Extension and Wig Market

he “wigstensions” (wigs and extensions) market in the U.S. is rapidly changing. Sales of wigstension products for Caucasian consumers are on the rise while African-American consumers are spending less than they once did. Of course, it is important to read these two markets individually since they are unique in sales trends, types of products and distribution channels. While there is actually no conclusive data on the wigstension markets, BBIM, a research institute which studies the hair industry, estimates that sales of wigstensions grew from $200 million in the 1960’s to about $2.7 billion by 2008 when market growth reached its peak. After half a century of steady growth, the market peaked and then took a hit. (These numbers include both Caucasian and African American market sales, though Caucasian sales are virtually insignificant when compared to those of African Americans who make up 90% of the wigstension consumer demographic.) From 2008 to 2012 the African American wigstension

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industry experienced about a 30% loss in sales, says Travis Johng, a market researcher at BBIM. The decline in sales is also detailed by the three largest hair extension manufactures who also report about 30% order reduction during the same period. In 2013 the market continued to decline, seeing another 12% loss. BBIM projects the industry may suffer a further loss of about 9% by the end of this year but is hopeful that decline will come to a halt by 2016. These losses, according to Johng, are due to a dramatic price hike which began to go into effect in 2008. More on that later. Looking, on the other hand, at the market trends for Caucasian consumers, we see that there has actually been growth of hair extension sales beginning in the late 90’s and continuing to trend upward through today. The ponytail extensions of the late 90’s sparked significant growth in the market. This trend was followed by the introduction of fusion extensions in the early 2000’s, causing the Caucasian market to see slow but steady growth over the last 16 years. However, it is just in the last four to seven years that the market’s size has

become significant enough to be noticed by the larger beauty industry as a whole. As celebrities like Jessica Simpson and, more recently, Kim Kardashian began to openly discuss their love for hair extensions, the image of using these types of “hair pieces” suddenly lost its taboo among younger Caucasian consumers. Simpson even joined forces with stylist Ken Pavés to launch her own line of extensions in 2006. Over the past seven years, BBIM reports an average market growth among Caucasian consumers of 9.5% per year, and the number may continue to grow even more quickly in the coming years. When looking at shops and salons who provide extension services, we are seeing a steady increase of 8% each year. Interestingly, growth in the Caucasian market is expected to have an effect on the African American consumer. As hair companies begin to bridge the gap to offer products to both types of consumers, it looks like the price of human hair will undergo some fluctuation.

projected three year loss of about 20% of the market. To deal with the crisis, some companies made the move toward inexpensively made, unprocessed hair which imitates the popular Virgin Remi variety. As for the future, Johng says it will be very hard to predict how the market will rebound. He explains that “as the hair extension sales for Caucasian and Hispanic consumers are steadily growing while sales among African Americans…remain in recession, we may see more companies diversify their target consumers.” More companies may take an integrated approach, targeting multiple races. If this happens, Johng predicts the much higher prices of Caucasian products may come down, while the traditionally more economical pricing of African American products will continue to increase, thus slowly leveling out the extreme price discrepancy. Article continues on page 76 >

But recent events will also play a big part. In 2008 the price of human hair targeted to the African American consumer increased by almost 80%. And actually, there may be a lot more going on behind the scenes to cause this drastic inflation. According to Johng, severe competition among hair companies has been playing out since the early 90’s. While the supply of human hair declined and production costs continued to rise, the price of both human and synthetic hair remained frozen at year 2000 levels for the next eight years. How did this happen? Stiff pricing competition among intensely combative companies. But, of course, that kind of stall in the market was not sustainable. After several years, these companies faced dissolution or severe price hikes, and they chose the latter. Needless to say, shocked consumers were less inclined to buy the same product they’d been using for years at an 80% increase in price—thus the

Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014-2015 featured hairstyles that brought you the simple, 90’s braided and twisted updos, fashionable vintage curls and modern, slicked back and straight hair. Among all that was presented, our favorite hairstyle was the fashionable vintage curls of the 1920’s, 30’s and 40’s: pin curls, finger waves and jawlength hair. Hollywood curls, as they are now called, get their name from Marilyn Monroe who owned the hairstyle that represented the lifestyle of the rich and glamorous of the 1940’s. Or perhaps you prefer the vintage look of the Great Gatsby era of the 1920’s, complete with feathered, beaded hair accessories, when women dared to escape from the Victorian style to wear shorter hemlines, excessive heavy makeup and expensive jewelry. Coco Chanel, one of the leading fashion icons of this era, took over the fashion industry and made it what it is today. Faux short hair and finger waves were found all over the runways of designers Ulyana Sergeenko, On Aura Tout Vu and Pamella Roland. Models wore pin curls and rolled up hair that was held up by bobby pins to give the illusion of short hair. Inspired curls from the 1920’-40’s can also be found on the red carpet these days. Among the celebrities who rock vintage curls are Christina Aguilera, Katy Perry, Reese Witherspoon and Scarlett Johansson.

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Images Courtesy of www.beautypress.com

FASHION WEEK FALL/ WINTER 2014-2015

Salons

Christophe

CARES

hoosing Christophe D.C. as your salon is definitely good for your looks, but it could also be good for your health. Owners Katy and Benjamin Duboeuf work hard to make their salon an oasis in what we who live here know can oftentimes be an all too tense, politically-charged and just generally stressful city.

The Christophe line of salons has been around for twenty years, beginning with the opening of the flagship shop in Beverly Hills. According to Katy and Benjamin, Christophe’s fame grew after he did Bill Clinton’s hair on Air Force One. As for the Duboeufs—“We started 17 years ago, so we worked with Christophe for quite some time, and eventually the evolution came up to have us take over, so here we are and hopefully doing a good job, and we are enjoying it,” says Katy. Katy and Benjamin, like Christophe himself, hail from France, where they both got a start before moving to the U.S. Katy, who specializes in color, and specifically, in color correction, began experimenting with her dolls’ hair at a very young age. “I was dipping my dolls’ hair in clorox and peroxide. I just wanted to see…[the] chemistry, and then from chemistry feeling the texture of the hair.” For Benjamin, doing hair is a family tradition. “I started, I was I think 14, I was visiting my parents sa-

lon…school wasn’t really meant for me…and I had to choose between my passions. It was working on hair or working as a motorcycle mechanic, and I decided to do the mechanic on the side and make my business hair.” Katy and Benjamin are not into mere superficial beauty. When it comes to caring for you and your hair, they want to dig deep. When I asked Katy what brand of color she prefers to use and why, this is what she had to say: “So Inoa [by L’oréal] stands for innovation, no ammonia. It’s infused with oil and water, so…it can definitely get hair to be shinier after but also…healthier. They say that after five times using Inoa you can get back to a really natural, healthy hair. Even after once we can definitely see it…I use it a lot because it’s at the same time gonna give a really nice definition but also a lot of shine.” Even when doing color, which has the potential to cause a lot of damage to hair, Katy is thinking about repairing your hair and taking care of it long term. She also specializes in Keratin treatments, which she loves for her own hair and for yours. “I love keratin. Everything that goes with it. I love the fact that you can actually…go really deep in the hair and make it better. So I like when something for me works from deep within instead of just adding a little serum and making it wow for a few hours.” She told me about a client who offered her scientific expertise to help prove the dramatic advances in hair’s health after using a keratin treatment. “We are very fortunate. We have a lot of clients that are wanting for us to succeed, and we have one of them that is a chemist and also works with microscopes, and she decided that she would actually help us [by] cutting her hair before treatment and after [and] looking at it in a microscope, and we saw 70%, basically, repair—which was pretty amazing.” Having one of Katy’s keratin treatments could improve your hair’s health by 70%, but just getting one of Christophe’s services in general could also help improve your mental health. Healthcare professionals say that forty-three percent of all adults suffer adverse health effects from stress and 75 to 90% of all doctor’s office visits are for stress-related ailments and complaints. Stress can even play a part in problems such as headaches, high blood pressure, heart problems, diabetes, skin conditions, asthma, arthritis, de-

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Christophe Cares

CONTINUATION

pression and anxiety. At Christophe, it’s about beating some of that stress. Benjamin talks about the benefits of massage during a shampoo or scalp treatment (massage is proven to reduce stress). He explains that “[clients] would come right after work just to have that moment of relaxation.” Katy goes on, “it makes them feel that they can just be at ease. And, you know, that’s what we want. It’s the best,…I think, when the client actually falls asleep in her chair; it’s actually, wow, it’s great.” It’s all about that moment of detox after a busy, stressfilled day. And it’s beginning to catch on with more customers as a routine treatment— probably as much for the scalp as for peace of mind. Katy explains, “I had a client on Friday, and she said ‘Can I come every friday? Do people do that?’ It’s a concept that’s very new because people come weekly, maybe [for] a weekly blow dry, but for a scalp treatment, not necessarily—it’s very new here. In France you see that often, but here, no, so it’s really letting them know that, yes, it’s possible and yes you should…” When I asked about a hairdresser’s dual roles as stylist and therapist, Katy said, “It’s very true. There is actually a client who calls just to tell me this is happening. ‘What should i do? What would you do?’ It’s funny how, yes, they want their hair to be amazing, but they also come for more.” The Center for Young Women’s Health actually lists talking through problems and stressful situations as a way to help reduce some of that stress, so spilling your guts to your stylist actually can make a real difference! Katy compares her relationship with her clients to that of a doctor and patient; there is the same kind of understood confidentiality agreement between them. The salon can also be a positive reinforcement for the stylists themselves. It’s just a generally uplifting atmosphere. Katy explains, “One of my clients; she’s a therapist, and she said to me, ‘Do you know why hair dressers don’t need therapists?’ I said, ‘No.’ She said ‘because you have so many people that tell you how great you are, how great you make us feel, how great you are doing,’ and it’s true…They come to our chair, and we bring them something… They usually are coming because someone was very happy with us, and they want the same experience.”

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Katy and Benjamin love what they do. They told me that it’s a joy to go to work every day, and their passion is evident when you speak to them. You feel that here is an adorable French couple who love each other and love doing hair. And they care—Katy and Benjamin offer their services to a D.C. organization called Second Chance Employment Services which works to give women who have been victims of domestic abuse a chance at gaining financial independence. Their weekly commitment to this cause shows their true colors. Katy and Benjamin open up their salon to these women and give them complimentary beauty treatments to boost confidence right before a job interview. The founder of the organization, Dr. Ludy Green calls their “faithfulness in this commitment… awe-inspiring.” Katy and Benajmin have not only built a deeply successful business in the beauty world, they are truly beautiful people. Christophe’s Extension Service Michael, Christophe D.C.’s extension and wig specialist, has been working at the salon for about a year now. Michael got his start doing hair for his six sisters and his mom. “My first experience with extensions was before my professional career. It was putting a weave on my mom. I glued it in her hair…That’s where it all started,” he says. We sat down with him to get his thoughts on everything extensions. (Michael also works with attachments and wigs.) In the past, he’s worked with a vast array of brands and types of extensions, including Hot Heads and Great Lengths. Currently, he says, “I’m in love with Platinum Seamless. It’s very light weight, and it lasts. The hair doesn’t shed. It’s easy to detangle… [and] it’s a nice range of colors.” When asked about extending the life of your extensions, Michael recommends a paraben-free, sulphate-free shampoo. He also suggests that you follow his instructions very closely, and don’t pull on your new hair. With proper care, they can last up to three months. Michael explains that he is seeing more and more people coming in for extensions, particularly the tape-on variety. Pictured above are some of the gorgeous looks Michael has created at Christophe D.C.

Salons

AROUND THE WORLD

Dedicated to Excellence: Lucinda Ellery and Her Hair Extensions Studio in London

CosmoBiz Salon goes global to introduce world-renowned hair salons abroad.

ur very first stop is Lucinda Ellery’s Hair Extensions Studio. Lucinda and her dedicated team have been providing professional hair extensions since 1984 and are currently serving clients in four locations: London, Manchester, Edinburgh and Los Angeles. Her premium-quality hair extensions and know-how have attracted many high profile clients from around the world. You can find more information on her salons and services at www.lucindaellery.com

What is your ultimate goal in life? To bring joy and happiness and to control the experience of my own life, which I think, is my responsibility, through my thoughts, my words and my actions.

What is your beauty background? Did you start as a hairstylist? When I was 3 years old I loved standing my dolls up and styling their hair, from the first time I could lift up a brush and a pair of scissors! I still remember the tears when I chopped my doll’s hair and it didn’t grow back the next day. I guess you could say it’s always been my passion.

What is the “tone” of your salons? How do you want customers to feel when they walk in the door? Often our clients are anxious, nervous, distressed and traumatized and to see their joy and that of their family and friends when they emerge like butterflies is truly amazing. This is all created in a private bespoke studio where they can relax and be pampered. They should feel that they have walked into a sanctuary, a haven, where there is no judgment only love and support, this is the tone of my salons.

What motivated you to get into the hair extensions industry? My love of hair and wanting to be a mermaid, even though I didn’t have much hair of my own. You’ve worked with many celebrities. Can you share some stories with us? My favorite story is Barbara Windsor, British icon, remembering her mother saying to her she [had] 9 hairs and a nit! (An English expression meaning your hair is very fine or thin.)

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

What is unique about your salons? Lucinda Ellery salons are exclusively women only. We work to create beautiful, stunning heads of hair no matter what our clients present us with. It’s a true lifestyle choice.

What do you do to improve customer care? Constantly research how to provide them with joy and happiness. We have an amazing team who work tirelessly to ensure our clients are always receiving exceptional customer care. We are constantly training and monitoring our service levels which are always a pleasure as our angels thrive on going an extra mile for our clients.

an you share some of the highs and lows you have faced? I remember meeting a girl called Micky, who at 24 came to see me for a consultation. At the time I felt her hair was too short to accomplish a great look and suggested she came back in 6 months and allow her hair to grow a little so we had more to work with. She said ‘oh no, I won’t be here then, my cancer is terminal.’ Needless to say I booked her in straight away and only god knows how she emerged back out into the world with her hair that closely resembled what she’d been born with and the joy we were able to give her as her dream was that her husband would see the girl he had married. That’s highs and lows in one person really. You have 60+ specialists working in your salons. How do you manage your employees? With an incredible team of wonderful angel managers dedicated to the same cause as my own. How big is the hair extensions market in the UK? It’s estimated that $105.9 million is spent on various types of hair extensions each year, and Britain is the third largest buyer of human hair worldwide behind the US and China. (According to numbers in 2012) How do you forecast the hair extensions industry? Ever growing. I don’t see that women will ever not want to improve their hair and extensions are not just for the rich and famous anymore. Where do you get hair extensions? From ethical hair merchants, the best we can find all over the world. Can you tell us the difference between human hair and synthetic hair and which one we should choose? There is no doubt in my mind that over the last 20 yrs connection techniques have improved beyond measure and human hair is by far my first choice for a natural looking head of hair. If you are looking for avant garde styles such as dreads and various colors then synthetic hair is unbeatable. We understand that your salon specializes in hair extensions. Do you provide other services as well? We do with everything to do with creating beautiful hair based on extensions, ranging from our Intralace System to medi-connections, which are hand-blended

extensions for added volume. You own 3 salons in the United Kingdom and 1 in Los Angeles. What is the key to your success? We provide a nurturing, safe environment, which is beautiful and relaxing, as well as providing care and attention to the wellbeing of our clients and having the knack of picking the best team in the world to look after our clients as they too are part of a team with one vision and goal in mind. You provide a hair loss treatment program for women suffering from hair loss. Can you tell us about the program? We offer our patented Intralace System, a hair restoration system that introduces new hair into existing hair using a lightweight and breathable mesh that creates a glamorous and practical end result. A lifestyle choice for women, the system can be washed, brushed and styled just like a woman’s natural hair and lasts for approximately two years with traditional upkeep every 6-8 weeks. The system is tailored to each client and customized to meet their hair loss needs and desired style. Additionally, I work with clients to cope with the emotional aspect of hair loss including women who struggle with TTM (trichotillomania, impulse control disorder that causes women to pull out their own hair). How fast do you think this non surgical hair replacement industry is growing? Can you share your thoughts on this industry? I think, largely due to our dedication to excellence, women with challenging hair can do something about it and we provide an alternative to wigs. I believe these lifestyle choices have moved this part of the industry forward. Hair trends are constantly evolving. How do you keep up with latest trends? I would always advise people to be creative and individual; look at your hair quality, thickness, density and work around things that suit your face and shape. Hair is a unique way to express your individuality and add-ons and add-ins are right up there and bang on trend. I stay up to date with the trends from magazines, watching the cat walks and talking to my amazing styling team. What’s the trend this summer and fall? We are still looking towards ombre and dip dyes, having colored extensions for fun, choppy looks are high on the agenda and long sleek hair is still bang on trend.

New Styles

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

New Styles

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

New Styles

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

New Styles

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

Beauty Industry News

USA

he Sunscreen Innovation Act has made its way through the House of Representatives and will be passed on to the Senate after the summer recess. The legislation aims to create a streamlined process and a timeline for the approval of new sunscreen ingredients. This change would allow for new innovative, and more effective products to become available. Currently, skin cancer is the most common type of cancer, with more than 2 million people in the U.S. diagnosed each year and 1 in 5 Americans developing skin cancer over their lifetime. In the US the last FDA approved over-the-counter ingredient for sunscreen was developed in the 1990’s. The Sunscreen Innovation act would require that pending applications for ingredient approval be given a decision within one year; for new applications the set time is one and a half years.

osmetic company Avon announced that their second quarter profits have continued to decrease. The decrease is not a new trend; profits for the first quarter of the year had dropped by 11%. Earlier this summer they announced that they intended to cut another 600 positions within the organization. The company’s business outline for the end of 2013 announced that they intended to cut over 1000 jobs by the end of 2014. The restructuring is in response to a reported decrease in satisfaction with investors; the company was hoping to save up to $55 million through job cuts alone.

ood news for anyone looking to up their glam factor to Kardashian levels. While the sisters may not be everyone’s cup of tea, the reality stars’ new products are likely to wow regardless of the name attached. The sisters told WWD, “Our personal desire for healthy, beautiful hair and hands-on product development has allowed us to design products we felt were missing in the market.” Their new hair line will feature tools, accessories and styling products and will be developed by luxury brand Farouk Systems, Inc. The products are expected to launch next spring.

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

nline beauty subscription website, Birchbox, has opened its first brick and mortar store in New York. The subscription service started in 2011 and has achieved wide success; they expanded into Europe after buying out another subscription-based beauty company, JolieBox. The West Broadway location boasts an airy 4200 square foot space with two floors and a design that echoes their web presence. The physical store offers a Build-yourown-Birchbox section as well as offering the monthly boxes for purchase. Owners Katia Beauchamp and Hayley Barna site the idea of “discovery” as one of the main reasons they started their business. The new store functions as a way to increase their customers’ ability to explore new products. Their “Try-Bar” plays a key role in this ideology; the bar will feature an ever changing variety of products for customers to play with.

ollowing the recent trend of downsizing, Procter & Gamble have announced that they will begin the process of divesting up to one hundred less lucrative brands. Oru Mohiuddin, of Euromonitor reports, “One of the challenges that Procter & Gamble has been facing is that it does not have sufficient coverage across the pricing spectrum in comparison to some of its leading competitors; for example, Unilever in hair care has a broad-based presence across the pricing spectrum, and this has been one of Unilever’s strengths. So, for Procter & Gamble, the recommendation is to use its newly released resource to develop [a] wider presence across the pricing spectrum,” The move is expected to be a boost for P&G; some analysts suspect that by dropping the excess weight stock in the company will rise 11%.

ady Burd, the cosmetic manufacturing company has released a series of new products for the upcoming fall/winter seasons. Their newest additions include several five-pan palettes of eyeshadow along with several individual pots. Both are designed for optimal use in either wet or dry application. They’ve also released a matte finishing powder that they suggest is excellent at absorbing shine and hiding imperfections.

edken recently unveiled a sea salt spray, Fashion Waves 07. It’s no surprise that the company wanted to create their own version of the popular spray. Its ability to create the texture seen in so many of the fashion week looks is thanks to the key ingredient, sea salt, which absorbs moisture from hair and leaves a matte finish. Redken’s creative consultant, Guido, says the new product will be his go-to for “creating natural waves and texture.” The spray is coveted for its range of use. It has the ability to create a laid back, surfer look just as well as it works for a more chic and runway ready one. “Whether I’m creating nonchalant ‘born with it’ waves or a more elegant, glamorous look, Fashion Waves 07 provides the workable texture and lasting hold I need to keep those perfect beach waves looking fresh and modern for the runway.” In addition to the sea salt spray, Redken recently released a series of anti-frizz products in honor of August’s “National Anti-Frizz Month.” The new line utilizes the hydration powers of shea-butter to tame heat scorched locks.

ntrexon, an American based synthetic biology specialist, has developed a method of converting methane to farnesene. Farnesene is a key ingredient in a wide variety of products from diesel fuel and plastics to cosmetics. It works, in the case of cosmetics, as part of the necessary ingredients to make lubricants; it’s coveted for its emollient properties. Until recently it has proved difficult and costly to make. Intrexon’s new process reduces energy expenditures in production and utilizes natural gas, considered one of the more economically sound sources of energy.

shland Inc. announced on July 17th that the price of hydroxyethylcellulose products will increase 5% in response to changes in market conditions. The product works as a gelling and thickening agent and is used in many cosmetics because of its ability to “dispense rich and thick from the container, but spread easily on hair and skin,” as explained by the product description. The company’s press release stated that the price increase will go into effect on August first or “as contracts allow.”

r. Brett King, among several other researchers from Yale university, has found an alternative use for the rheumatoid arthritis drug tofacitinib citrate. The autoimmune drug was used to successfully treat a 25 year old male with alopecia universalis; within 8 months the young man had regrown eyebrows and eyelashes as well as the hair on his head. The treatment is still being studied, and scientists are very clear that this treatment would not be well-suited for cosmetic uses such as male pattern baldness. In an interview with CNN, Dr. King stated that more research would be worthwhile, “The possibility should be imagined and should be investigated.”

ince 2006 Sephora has been one of the few retained partners of JC Penny’s store-within-store concept; a total of 489 JC Penny’s throughout the nation have a space set aside for the French cosmetics company. The end of June marked the opening of 11 more of the stores; each shop is allotted, on average, 2,200 square feet in the center of each store. This is just a segment of Sephora’s expansion for this year; the company is also working on its market in Australia and South America.

Beauty Industry News

EUROPE

merican pharmacy chain Walgreens is set to acquire Boots, its UK equivalent. The American company already had a 45% stake in the foreign pharmacy chain and has recently been looking into purchasing the rest of the company. The original agreement included the potential opportunity to purchase remaining shares by 2016. Greg Wasson, chief executive of Walgreens, said “We are excited to move forward with the next important step in becoming a new kind of global health care leader.” When combined the company will be known as the “Walgreen Boots Alliance.” The current leaders of the companies will combine forces: Walgreen’s CEO Greg Wasson will be president and CEO, and Stefano Pessina, executive chairman for Boots, will become executive vice chairman and will be responsible for strategy.

rench Company, Laboratoire PYC, has developed a new line of skin enhancing nutritional products. The company, which was established in 1979, has long been interested in health and beauty. Their newest products included an anti-aging nutritional supplement in a pleasant peach flavor. The Collagen beauty booster®, [m]ade from fish collagen…helps to smooth the skin by reducing the number of fine lines, preventing the formation of deeper wrinkles while at the same time enhancing the skin’s suppleness and hydration.”

fter a 60 year hiatus, the fashion house Schiaparelli of Paris was resurrected under the command of designer Marco Zanini at the start of 2014. The fall collection, which many credited as being closer to the House’s original image, was full of bold colors, whimsical prints and a wide variety of proportions and textures. The line featured a collection of hats by Stephen Jones that pay homage to Elsa Schiaparelli’s playful creations of the 1930’s. Among the notable, a collection of feathered head pieces that created the illusion of brightly colored blunt bangs. In comparison to the colorful and eccentric clothing, the models sported a natural look. The lips were left neutral, and the focus was placed on well-defined eyebrows. Several of the models sported short, choppy bangs echoing the eclectic and playful collection while adding a hint of the grunge style that has been seen in several other designers’ Fall 2014 collections.

rtdeco, the German make-up brand, opened a flagship store in Paris. The 170sqm shop is designed to look like an “adjustable beauty box” with a simple interior of black and white in gloss and matte finishes. The store will have two make-up bars and several beauty consultants on hand. Roger Meynlé, Art Deco’s current managing director, says the opening marks the, “start of a new chapter for the brand in France.” This new Paris store is expected to do well, “Our rapid growth has brought us to this next level, that’s why we have decided to open our own store. With outstanding service and this amazing location, we think the store is going to be a favorite destination for our target group.”

ld Spice will be launching a selection of products into the French market. The focus will be on the “Danger Time” line and will include a variety of deodorants and shower gels. The company continues its trend of smart and funny ads by keeping its catchphrase, “Smell like a man, man” in english and adding a footnote in French that reads, “If you don’t speak English, shame…”

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

Beauty Industry News

AFRICA / MIDDLE EAST

ccording to a report by Indian firm Kuick Research, demand for halal products has created a boost in the Middle Eastern market. The Middle East has always been a lucrative market for the cosmetics industry, and the demands of its consumers have already created a serious impact on companies involved. While most of the demand comes from regions with high Muslim populations like the Middle East and Asia, there is growing interest from the West as well. According to reports, many Westerners are interested in the natural ingredients.

outh African organic Brand Oh-Lief has been participating in The Standard Bank’s ThinkBig Business television program. The natural product company beat out hundreds of competitors and is now among the top 12 businesses participating in the reality show. The program is a 10 part series that documents the challenges, professional and personal, that small businesses face. The publicity is a boon for the small company; they currently supply to 13 countries and have been working hard to increase that. “We scraped all our money together to start Oh-lief, and we’ve worked hard over the past 4 years to grow our business,” said co-founder Christine Buchanan. The company will be live tweeting during each Thursday night episode.

stée Lauder recently announced that it has plans to expand its subsidiaries in Sub-Saharan Africa. The brand opened a MAC branch in Nigeria and experienced great success. The company plans to expand its MAC and Clinique brands within Nigeria and then move further into the Sub-Saharan region. As of now the focus is on Botswana, Zambia and Cote d’Ivoire.

uromonitor analysts say the color cosmetics industry in South Africa is forecast to surpass $120 million in 2014. If the rise in revenues occurs, it will be the result of a burgeoning middle class. The report predicts, “The forecast period is expected to witness a rise in the middle class disposable incomes; this increase coupled with new product launches, advertising campaigns, price promotions and the increasing influence of international trends are expected to fuel volume and constant value sales.” The biggest player in the market is Revlon. The major brand recently tapped South African media personality, Bonang Matheba, to be its beauty ambassador. A move which immediately increased sales, many consumers went out and took photographs of themselves purchasing the foundation that one of her advertisements highlighted.

igerian brand Natures Gentle Touch unveiled a new tea-tree-based anti-dandruff range of products. The new pack contains their signature shampoo conditioner leave-in treatment, anti-dandruff scalp protector and their newest addition, tea tree daily scalp therapy. The company is part of Recare International, a researching and manufacturing company based in Africa. The company was created in 1997 and has won a variety of awards including Best Relaxer of the year and Beauty Brand of the year.

Beauty Industry News

LATIN AMERICA

ig news for the cosmetics industry in Brazil this year: September 9th through 10th will mark the beginning of In-Cosmetics in Sau Paulo. In-Cosmetics Brazil will be the first exhibition for cosmetic and personal care ingredients in Latin America. Then, in December, Sau Paulo will be home to the “Makeup In” tradeshow. The placement of these two events is well founded as the commercial market for cosmetics in Latin America and Brazil, specifically, is seeing record growth. In 2011 Latin America ranked number four in the world for consumption of cosmetic and personal care products; their total revenue clocked at US $64billion, and the market has been steadily growing since. It’s expected for Brazil to become the number two cosmetic consuming country this year.

rench brand Yves Rocher opened an online store for Brazil this past May and has recently announced that they are looking to open 10 stores in Brazil before the end of this year. The natural beauty company started opening its brick and mortar stores in December 2013 and has opened several more since.

rench company Sephora has continued its expansion into South America. The chain, which has become one of the leaders in the cosmetic and perfume industry, started by opening two stores in Mexico in 2011. Since then, the company has opened several branches throughout Mexico and has moved into Brazil. The brand expects to have 24 stores in Latin America by the close of this year. They plan to continue their expansion significantly over the next 2 years with a goal of 50 stores in Latin America by 2016.

he Chamber of Deputies in Brazil has passed a law that cuts down on the use of animal testing for cosmetics. Enforcement of the bill will begin in September of this year. Animal testing will now be banned in tests for cosmetics that have alternative methods being approved and utilized internationally. However, animal testing will still be allowed in the case of new ingredients. Antoniana Ottoni of the Humane Society Internationa’l Be Cruelty-Free Brazil responded to the news: “We are thrilled that Brazil is joining the ranks of the European Union, Norway Israel and India in ending the practice. However, as it is currently worded, there are some unfortunate loopholes in the bill that must be closed. Experts are working with the Senate and all parties involved to help improve Brazil’s bill and bring it closer to what Brazilians want to see: a completely cruelty-free cosmetics future. Nonetheless, this is an important milestone.” Brazil is one of a few to start enacting animal testing laws this month; China has also started conversations on animal testing.

he Mexican state of Guanajuato will be seeing a boost of new jobs from the installation of a new cosmetics factory. Beiersdorf, a German company specializing in personal care products, expects to receive its certificate rapidly. The plant’s manager, Dr. Sebastian Gottschalk, reported, “Then Beiersdorf, with a platinum seal, will be the first company in Latin America to be able to claim the highest status for an industrial building.” The company produces products for brands Nivea and Eucerine. The new plant is part of an effort to increase production and growth in Latin America. Dr. Ulrich Schmidt, a board member of the company stated, “The investment in Mexico is an answer to the increasing demand in the North and Central American regions. Our production capacity and our ability to supply will dramatically improve. Furthermore, the close collaboration with the integrated innovation center will guarantee that we develop specific products for the Latin American markets and optimally serve regional consumer needs,”

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

Beauty Industry News

ASIA

merican nutrition company, Herbalife, announced that it will be expanding its manufacturing capabilities in China. The company currently has a manufacturing facility in the city of Suzhou and an extraction plant for its botanical products in Changsha. The new location will likely be in a facility in Jianging, where the company has identified a recently built factory that would suit their needs. The chief operating officer of Herbalife, Richard Goudis, stated in a press release, “We are experiencing steady and sustainable growth in China and it is important that our infrastructure is robust enough to meet the demand we are seeing now, and expect to see in the future. We have been impressed with the support from officials in Jiangning, and we are extremely encouraged by the positive discussions we have had with senior provincial, state, city and park officials, who are excited for us to increase our investments and presence in the region.”

he Chinese government has begun to consider adapting its policies on animal testing. Current laws require animal testing for cosmetic products sold within the country, an issue which has made many outside companies wary of entering the market. The proposal does not end animal testing altogether, but it does suggest that further tightening of restrictions will be considered. Change in animal testing laws would mean good news for companies looking to start trade within China’s booming cosmetics market. Currently, many companies have avoided China out of either an attempt to refrain from alienating consumers or in response to pressure from those same consumers.

wiss cosmetic company, Induchem, opened a new branch office in Singapore this past July. The company, who has recently created a new range of cosmetic “spheres” and Redensyl, a hair growth treatment, has been expanding rapidly. The opening of an Asian office is considered as Peter Schweikert, the CEO, stated, “another significant step in the development of our business, and will reinforce our customer and partner intimacy model.” Schweikert also states that the company has a close relationship with its Asian customers, and the decision to open the Singapore branch was in part an effort to, “increase our level of support to our Asian distributers and key accounts.”

asahiko Uatani was recently appointed to become the new CEO and president of Japanese beauty company Shiseido. Uatani has started vocalizing his goals for the company, “My mission is to realise Shiseido’s further innovation and growth for the next stage by reinforcing, accelerating and developing management reforms which were started by Mr. Maeda in order to revitalise Shiseido.” His hopes for the company extend far into the future; he’s been reported as saying, “I will stake my life on this job to have wonderful Shiseido become a leading brand as one of the greatest global companies for the next 50, and even 100 years.

osmetic companies in Korea are hopeful for a new trade agreement with China by the end of the year. The growing popularity of Korean culture has sparked an increase in tourism from China to South Korea. In 2013 4.3 million Chinese citizens visited their neighbor to the east; cosmetics proved to be one of the most frequent purchases. Currently, Korean companies face a 130% tariff when importing to China. The two countries have a close trade relationship; China is Korea’s largest trading partner, while the Korean market is the third largest for Chinese exports. If the trade agreement goes through, it would mean a dynamic shift in the trade potential. In response to the high numbers of Chinese tourists and their demand for cosmetics, Lotte Duty Free expanded its store in Seoul by 1,500sqm. Sales are reported to have gone up 70% in the first half of this year as compared to 2013.

All About HAIR

LIQUID PRODUCTS

MOROCCANOIL Pure Argan Oil

If you really want to give hair a treat, try MOROCCANOIL’s Pure Argan Oil enriched with healthy, restorative vitamin E. This product generates nearly 100% positive reviews online.The vanilla musk smell isn’t too strong, and its ability to treat and repair damaged hair has been much-celebrated in cyber space. WHY WE LOVE IT—You’ve been soaking up the sun, and so has your hair. All that heat and

This product receives rave reviews. It’s a cross between a cream and a mousse that maxes out your hair’s volume. WHY WE LOVE IT—There are so many products out there promising volume, but they can often leave your hair feeling ridiculously stiff and old-fashioned. The recurring theme in reviews of this product is its light weight feel.

those UV rays may have left your hair in less than ideal shape. Moroccan Oil can help bring dry, damaged hair (and skin and nails!) back to life. TUTORIAL 1. Pour a small amount in hands and smooth through hair. 2. Or try mixing Argan Oil with your favorite cream for a luxurious cocktail of moisture.

This is not a heavy-handed volumizer. Recommended for fine to medium hair. TUTORIAL 1. Scoop out a small amount, about the size of a dime. 2. Rub onto fingertips 3. Apply with fingers to the scalp area 4. Blow dry as normal

Redken Aerate 08 Bodifying Cream Mousse

Serge Normant Meta Lush Volumizer Meet the volumizer that truly lives up to its name. It’s a root spray, and reviewers say it smells great and really gets the job done. WHY WE LOVE IT—It doesn’t weigh your hair down or make it sticky or oily, like some other volumizers. A senior editor at totalbeauty.com points out that she has tried just about every volumiz-

er out there on her flat mane and recommends this one for its work ethic and barely-there feel. TUTORIAL 1. Spray into hair at the roots. 2. Blow dry in. 3. Feel free to run your fingers through hair because this stuff provides elasticity instead of stiffness.

ALTERNA CAVIAR Anti-Aging Omega+ Nourishing Hair Oil Another product that’s nearly all oil, ALTERNA’s CAVIAR Anti-Aging Omega+ Nourishing Hair Oil is another great restorative product to treat your hair after a long summer of exposure. WHY WE LOVE IT— It contains no

parabens or sulphates but does use a deep, nourishing dose of Omega-3’s and C22 fatty acids to restore hair’s beauty and shine and repair split ends. It doesn’t hurt that it comes in a lovely bottle with a dropper either.

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

Video credit to Anti-Frizz by Yuko and Youtube.

Tutorial:

Yuko Anti-Frizz Straightening Treatment

Consult with your client/stylist to determine whether the treatment is right for your hair type.

Hair is rinsed.

Hair is first washed and treated with a primer.

Blow dry and iron.

The straightening solution is then applied to hair.

A 90 minute anti-frizz Japanese straightening treatment from Yuko, perfect for taming those humid-weather flyaways. Yuko’s website boasts that this treatment contains fewer harmful chemicals than Keratin and Brazilian straightening treatments. WHY WE LOVE IT—It lasts an average of three months, and unlike other straightening treatments, Yuko

Once hair is dry and straight, a neutralizer is applied to condition and neutralize.

anti-frizz repairs and conditions your hair as it smooths. Yuko uses two solutions to achieve its silkening effect, one containing Thioglycerin, the latest breakthrough ingredient used in Japan's hair industry, and the other, a blend of silk, soy, and wheat. Yuko anti-frizz is semi-permanent—hair will become smoother but not completely straight.

Lasio Tropic Keratin Treatment Looking to do a Keratin treatment to put some of the moisture back into hair after so much sun exposure this summer? Lasio Tropic could be the brand for you. WHY WE LOVE IT—Unlike most keratin treatments, you can wash hair immediately after applying this one, instead of waiting the usual one to three days. And, this is a big plus, it doesn’t use formaldehyde. Instead, the active ingredient in Lasio Tropic is Euxol 702, which is a liquid cosmetic preservative alternative and is more friendly to skin than formaldehyde.

TUTORIAL 1. Wash hair two to three times without conditioning. 2. Rough dry using a blow dryer, making sure hair is completely dry. 3. Evenly distribute treatment throughout hair in one to two inch segments, beginning at the nape of the neck. Comb treatment through with a fine-tooth comb. 4. Wear a mask to blow dry the hair. 5. Use a coated, ceramic iron heated to 450 degrees to flat iron hair. 6. Iron one inch sections seven times each.Blow dry as normal

All About HAIR

TOOLS

What better trend than those lovely beach waves! It’s never too late to get that trendy look. Here are some awesome curling iron tools that’ll give you those lovely, loose curls!

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

Industry Watch

Trichology may be the next big thing to hit the cosmetology world. Although some have been skeptical in the past, trichology has started to receive significant interest in the US and abroad.

What is Trichology? Trichology is a set of cosmetology services that promotes healthier hair growth. It is not a medical service, nor a newly developed study. In fact, it is a 110 year old practice that was first introduced by The Institute of Trichologists in London. The Institute defines trichology as “the science of the structure, function and diseases of the human hair.” It goes on to say, “Clinical trichology is the diagnosis and treatment of diseases and disorders of the human hair and scalp.” If you read just this definition you may mistake it for a medical service which only licensed doctors can perform. In reality, it is an unregulated wellness service

that can be preformed by almost anyone, provided they have some level of training. Ideally, the treatment would be provided as a part of a cosmetology service. When trichology was first introduced, a group of doctors, scientists and cos-metologists foresaw it as a separate medical specialty. But since the study of the hair and scalp overlaps with the study of dermatology, it failed to get recognized as such. In 1972, with the help of Dr. David Salinger, the University of Southern California reviewed studies of trichology but came to a similar conclusion. Despite this disappointing outcome, The Institute of Trichologists continues to train trichologists, and many well-trained trichologists are providing professional services throughout the world. Some work side by side with dermatologists, and others are operating their own non-medical clinics. Trichology rests in a liminal space, not classified as medical nor purely cosmetic. It is partially due to this lack of classification that trichology has not attained popularity.

What should you expect at a trichology center?

The procedure may vary depending on the scalp condition, but the following are some of the common procedures of a trichology service. 70

Microsopic View of Scalp Condition

STEP 1. The scalp is viewed with a microscopic digital camera with 200X to 500X lenses. Still images can be saved for future reference.

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

Classifying Client’s Scalp Type

Micro Mist Softening

STEP 2. You will be able to see the close-up view of your scalp. Depending on the conditions of your scalp a set of treatment processes will be determined.

STEP 3. Water is misted over the hair and scalp to soften any residues on the surface for optimum cleansing.

Birth of Herbal Trichology

What Triggered Its Success?

The lack of interest changed about 10 years ago; trichology was introduced in Asia, specifically Korea and Japan, countries well known for their herbal medicines and treatments. Their traditional medicine, which combines herbal extracts, acupuncture and therapeutic massages (Jihop), has been proven over several thousand years of practice. In fact, large numbers of modern drugs have been developed based on their traditional medicine.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I think it is mostly because academia and the beauty industry worked hand in hand from the beginning. These sound infrastructures helped generate a large number of well trained trichologists in a relatively short period of time and developing scientific theories and reliable products at the university level, in cooperation with corporate,â&#x20AC;? said Professor Noh Young-hee at Konyang University, the school that pioneered Medical-beauty, incorporating medical aspects into beauty culture.

Asian scholars and cosmeDuring the past decade, Noh tologists saw the potential and a number of scholars have of trichology and began published more than 70 books incorporating the convenon trichology. The study of tionally developed tricholtrichology is now included as ogy of the UK with Asian a part of cosmetology studies traditional therapy. The rein more than 140 colleges and sult was explosive. Within Universities in Korea alone, the first 3 years more than including the private institu25,000 trichology centers tions. There are thousands of opened in Korea alone, and new trichologists entering the the numbers are still growmarket each year. 1000 to 1200 micro pulse of water splashing rapidly. Service fees es on the scalp to remove dirts and oil debris. range from $50 to about Not only cleans the scalp but also relieves stress. In addition to the strong sup$150 for a 1-hour session, port of academia, the scienand millions of consumers tists who studied traditional visit these trichology centers regularly. medicine made a huge impact when they merged the modern science of trichology with the benefits of the As the demand for trichology services grows, medical herbal science from Asia. Fueled by the enthusiastic clinics have been pressured into providing trichology consumers, and with a proven track record, the herbal service. It has became a popular treatment at most dertrichology service is likely to spread like wild fire into matologistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; offices but with much larger price tags. North America and Europe.

Scaling Scalp

Pole Cleansing wIth Iontophoresis

Pressure Wash with Aqua Dote

STEP 4. A specifically formulated herbal solution is gently massaged on the scalp in order to remove impurities and dead skin cells.

STEP 5. The ions detoxify by neutralizing oppositely charged toxins in the cells that are normally slow to exit the body. This helps the body to get rid of toxins naturally.

STEP 6. A powerful water stream of 1000-1200 microbursts per minute provides a massage, while being powerful enough to remove stubborn dirt from around the hair-pole.

Herbal Healing Shampoo

STEP 7. An all natural herbal shampoo service cleanses hair shafts and prepares the scalp for the following treatments.

Opportunities and Challenges The scholars who developed herbal trichology share the same concerns and are preparing to launch their own nationwide training program. Their program will incorporate hands-on training and online classes. Unlike the conventional trichology training program that takes years to complete, this new training program is simplified and shortened. An average student can complete the entire course in less than 3 months, and licensed cosmetologists can complete the course in a matter of days or weeks since their cosmetology courses include anatomy and biology.

When considering the potential to generate tens of thousands of new jobs and bringing more clients to salons, the herbal trichology industry clearly offers a great deal of opportunities for many. At the same time, it poses challenges to the quality of its services. Since it is not regulated by government agencies, anyone can claim to be a trichologist and offer services. Untrained trichologists with poor skills can easily discredit the benefit of herbal trichology.

Regardless of the many challenges, Tressential, a Maryland company that is leading the way in Herbal trichology in the US, Simon trichology, based in Spain, and the AlĂ¨s Group USA, the manufacturer of Phyto brand all expect that the trichology industry will experience dynamic growth.

Renowned trichologist and educator, Dr. David Kingsley, at the World Trichology Society, welcomes this new movement while emphasizing the importance of the proper training to maintain the positive reputation of the trichology service itself. In anticipation of this Low level laser potential boom, he has recenthair growth ly written a comprehensive textand microbook on trichology and formed an scopic digital organization to provide continuing camera education for trichologists.

Oxygen Spray

STEP 8. A mix of herbal nutrients and vitamins are sprayed onto the scalp using the optimum levels of oxygen; this cools the scalp while encouraging normal cell growth.

Soothing Scalp Galvanic

STEP 9. The positively charged Galvanic device pushes key nutrients deep into the skin while carrying away negatively charged toxins.

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

Hair steamer and microburst of water jet stream. Removes impurities from the hair pore while massaging the scalp, giving rewarding feeling

Scalp VacuUm Suction

STEP 10. Hard to get rid of impurities are removed from the scalp, especially the pole area, by applying suction with an air pressured vacuum.

Magnetised Mist Soothing

STEP 11. Calm down the scalp after deep cleansing with magnetized mist spray, followed by a low-level laser that is known to stimulate hair growth. Courtesy of Tressential

It's a Hot New Trend

Herbal Trichology Service Master Shop Laser 141 Shampoo + Pampering Deep Cleansing Scalp and Poles Rejuvenate Scalp for Healthier Hair Growth Promote Blood Circulation Low level laser promoting absorption of nutrients Microscope diagnostic camera is an option

uropean studies have shown that LLLT stops hair loss in 85% of cases and stimulates new hair growth in 55% of cases. The therapeutic light-energy is absorbed by the cells and the process of cell repair begins, it stimulates the production of energy at the cellular level, therefore, improving cell function.

Oxygen Spray Gun & Tonic Applicator

Hand-held Bio Current Stimulator

High density nonablative diode laser

Microscope Diagnostic Camera 200X (optional)

Visit us at Tressential.com

Company Watch

PROFILE

hen sisters Kasey and Kelly Evick decided to make baskets of body products as Christmas gifts they never realized what they were getting into. The sisters were broke and living at home trying to decide what to give to friends and family when they came across an article in Martha Stewart magazine on how to make soap. That was in 2002; flash forward a moment and 11 years later they are one of the sweethearts of Baltimore’s local business world. The road to success, the sisters say, has not always been easy. Officially, the business started in 2003; the time in between was spent testing and perfecting recipes for the soaps, body butter bars and lip balms that their Christmas giftees had raved about. The pair’s background was well suited for the task; both had experience in the fine arts and fashion as well as a good deal of knowledge and interest in the use of botanicals and natural healing. In an interview with blog Baltimore by Hand, Kasey Evick spoke of the year long process.

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

“We started thinking about it more, and we did a lot of research and started thinking, ‘OK, we can learn more about soap making, about making products.’ This also comes from us being interested in the natural health side of it. We really wanted to make soaps that were purposeful and weren’t just about scent- to help people. Kel did most of the research. Sort of developed a line and it sold. It was a real slow and organic process.”

The two continued to work full, and then part time, to support their venture. Until fairly recently, both said they were working days and nights 7 days a week. Until 2008 the duo ran the company out of their parents’ basement; a 2006 video interview shows the room with shelves stocked full with drying bars of their soaps. The process at the time was a full family affair; the sisters divided the process of making the soaps and packaging, and their parents helped with cutting the bars and various other tasks. Then in 2008 they moved to a 2800 sq

ft warehouse in Baltimore, where they now have the help of a staff. With the expansion and the help of some marketing, the brand has gone from the world of craft fairs to being available in stores all over the nation, including grocery chains Whole Foods and Wegmans.

The name, Biggs & Featherbelle, represents an amalgamation of the characters that make up the sisters world. “Biggs & Featherbelle are somewhat fictional. Biggs (formerly Bubba) is a character inspired from our kitty cat named Diesel. Featherbelle is a fusion of Kelly & Kasey. Biggs & Featherbelle represent a broad spectrum of people from manly tough to girly sweet.” The soaps themselves follow the trend of the name in colorful and creative packaging with titles such as Barlesque with ylang ylang and geranium and Bargarita with sea salt and lime. There is even a Baltimore inspired soap, Barmore, with tea tree and lemongrass, whose tag line reads “Leave that Old Bay smell behind!” The soaps use a wide range of natural essential oils as well as oils for moisturizing such as olive oil and coconut oil. Their soap-making process begins with combining the oils and lye which creates a chemical reaction that causes the mixture to thicken. It’s then poured into a mold and left to harden over a 24 hour period; after that the soap is cut into bars and left to dry for 4 weeks. When the lye and oils have mixed together the process is complete. The end result is a cruelty free and, in many cases, vegan product that lasts up to two years when stored properly.

of perseverance and hard work, turned a profit. After landing deals with Whole Foods and Wegmans the duo was able to get their products to a larger audience. In the first year the company sold 500 bars of soap; in 2012 they sold 103,000; in 2013 sales were expected to pass 150,000. The increase in sales, and therefore profit, has allowed the team to move to a new 6000sq ft space and to expand the team to 8 employees. Whats next for the team? The sisters seem to always have a new plan and product up their sleeves, “We have many ideas brewing in our heads but definitely on our list are liquid soaps, body and face lotions and healing balms/salves. Further in the future we would love to explore making shampoo, conditioner and deodorants.” Whatever the sisters come up with next you can expect that it will live up to the high quality, natural and creative standards that they have set for themselves.

As of March 2013 the sisters had finally, after 10 years

All About HAIR

LOOKS

Stylebook

EVA, Vivica Fox

ROXIE, Estetica Designs

MAMA MIA, Janet Collections

JU324, Harlem125

Julianne Hough looks stunning in this sleek pixie cut with a longer, side-swept bang. It’s so easy to go from day to night with this effortless look. Hough’s cropped mane is all elegance and sophistication, pictured here at The Kaleidoscope Ball, Beverly Hills Hotel.

he Janet Collection by Beauty Plus is a “pioneer in the evolution of hair products…,” constantly evolving to fit the needs of its consumers. Beauty Plus is a leading manufacturer of human and synthetic hair products.

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

HeLenA-S, Lord & Cliff

VICTORIA, Lord & Cliff

ord & Cliff, also known as Frisco International LTD, was founded in 1999 and is based in Dallas, Texas. The company is currently under the direction of president William Park and V.P. Sue Park. Their vision is to be the leader in the creation of new hair fashions.

ew Jigu has offices in New York and Paris; the company has recently introduced two collections titled “Lovely,” and “Harlem 125.” They have also just released a new brand of extensions, Indian Remi 5 Star.

Reese really knows how to give us ponytail envy. Lucky for us, this look is a snap with the right product. Pictured here at the Oscars, Reese is all Hollywood glamour.

SAMBA, Harlem125

All About HAIR

LOOKS

Stylebook

CHRISTINA, Estetica Designs

BLAKE, Estetica Designs

RIHANNA, Sensationnel

JAMISON, Estetica Designs

We love this adorable, medium-length bob on Ryan Simpkins. Shown here at the premiere of her film, “Guardians of the Galaxy,” Simpkin’s cut is a classic win.

stetica Designs offers a luxurious range of both synthetic and human hair. Their design team is constantly trying new techniques to ensure that they are able to provide both classic and modern styles.

ensationnel, “Hair You Love to Wear,” is a label of parent company, Hair Zone, which was started in 1989 and helps to define market trends in the hair industry. Sensationnel hosts events for consumers all over the country.

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Klix Hair Extensions

ADELE, Sensationnel Amanda Seyfried spotted in a classic, dark peacoat on the streets of London. Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s keeping her hair extra long these days, and we like it. Get her layered, lengthy look.

lix Hair Extensions were invented by a pair of hairstylists from Michigan who have over 30 years of experience. The company was started in 2006, and their products have since been patented.The Klix method is favored for its non-damaging process and its speed of application.

PREMA, Sina

LOPEZ, Lord & Cliff

ina has been one of the leading suppliers of hair products throughout the US for the last 18 years. They supply innovative and high quality wigs, weaves, and extensions made of both human and synthetic hair.

All About HAIR

LOOKS

Stylebook

JOYA, Janet Collections

STERLING, Shake N Go

RAVEN, Vivica Fox

M776, Bobbi Boss

Rihanna performs here in Madrid, but we’re more interested in her gorgeous locks. Curly, medium length, and full, you’re sure to be a show-stopper with this glam, textured look.

ivica Fox teamed up with Amekor Industries to create the Vivica A. Fox Hair Collection in 2010. Since then, the duo has been producing top quality hair products for satisfied customers.

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

BOHEMIAN CURL BRAID,

Bobbi Boss

SENEGAL TWIST BRAID,

Bobbi Boss

idway International is one of the top hair distributers and has one of the largest facilities in the world. Their main brand, Bobbi Boss, encompasses a plethora of subcontracts. The brand offers such a wide variety of products that they claim they can “satisfy every need.”

hake N Go was established in 1991 and is one of the world’s largest manufacturers of hair extensions and wigs. They credit their single goal as providing hair stylists with the best hair products available.

Solange Knowles brings back the classic, 90’s braids. Seen here at a pre-Grammy brunch.

CUBAN TWIST Shake N Go

COLOR

Pastels P

astels have arrived, and it doesn’t look like they’re going away anytime soon. A virtual rainbow of pinks, purples, and turquoises has been seen on the locks of celebs from January Jones to Kelly Osbourne to Lauren Conrad. We might not be so surprised to find a cotton candy hue on the likes of Katy Perry or Nicki Minaj, but it’s a bit more unusual to see it on Dame Helen Mirren! According to one salon owner, it’s just becoming more mainstream. The trend toward pastels, as opposed to a striking red or deep blue or green which have traditionally been the countercultural go-to hues, lends the “unnatural” look a softer edge. A toned down, feminine lilac is more appealing and inviting than the punk rock pinks we’ve seen in the past, though I’m not saying there’s anything wrong there either. And, of course, there are differing levels of color clients may choose to go to depending on personal preference and necessity. Some may be a bit more free to incorporate this look over the whole head, while others may need to keep it toned down a

bit by working color into strands at the nape of the neck where they can be confidently displayed or hidden, depending on the circumstance. Nicole Richie stepped out with beautiful, lilac tresses a few months back. (She has since switched to a blue.) Her colorist, Danny Moon, who is a Pravana guest artist at the Andy Lecompte Salon in Los Angeles, recently spoke with Us Weekly about Richie’s decision. “She was itching to try a new pastel shade,” he said. He also reports that Richie views pastel colors as “sophisticated.” We’re seeing that pastels are viewed with a certain sort of elegance and polish, almost as if one is opening up a box of delicate French macaroons or taking a cue from the pastel shade of a piece of fine china. Richie’s hue was created by using Pravana ChromaSilk Vivids Violet and Pastels Mystical Mint. We’re also seeing this trend in a big way on the catwalk. High fashion model Chloe Norgaard, who is a famous source of inspiration for Rodarte, the fashion brand created by sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, recently divulged that she uses a combination of Colour Jamz Crimson Storm and a violet color by Manic Panic to achieve a blended lavender pink shade. I suggest that you have a serious talk with a client who comes in wanting to take the pastel plunge. Let her know exactly what she’s getting into. I know from experience that it can be a real bummer to go in for an expensive, exotic hair dye appointment only to have it begin to fade the next time you shampoo your hair and be almost completely gone after a few weeks. If I had been prepped by my stylist, I might not have been so shocked—and I definitely would not have washed my hair as often! Bea McMonagle at youbeauty.com recently wrote an excellent article about maintaining and extending the life of your pastel. She quotes colorist Meg Hartigan-Sanchez, of the Marie Robinson salon in New York City, who suggests several steps you can tell your clients to take to help prepare them to care for a fragile, pastel hue. First, start with a clean slate; hair has got to be white for a pastel to work. Next, she suggests that you seal color with a rinse of equal parts vinegar and water. Warn your clients that the less shampooing they do the better, and when they do shampoo, it’s better to use a sulfate free color safe cleanser. She even suggests that you could have them purchase the color and use a tiny, tiny drop to mix in with conditioner at home to help extend color life. If nothing else, be prepared to brush up on your knowledge of pastels because if you haven’t already had a client come in pining for a pastel, you most certainly will.

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

Images courtesy of Image Collect.

All About Hair

Men’s Corner

Well Groomed! Gel that foams up when activated with water and cleans the face extremely well but also doesn’t dry the skin. This is what men love about this product. It thoroughly cleans the face and removes oil and keeps it moist—but not oily. It also perfectly removes dirt, impurities and makeup. Calendula Deep Cleansing Foam Face Wash is soap free and paraben free, making it ideal for chemical conscious users. It is also ideal for men with sensitive skin. Skin will feel softer, smoother and revitalized after every wash.

Working late at night or hardcore partying gives you puffy and tired eyes. Restore those tired eyes with Menaji 911 Eye Gel. Refreshes your eyes just like a mini-ice pack, cooling puffy eyes back to their normal state. With its unique combination of chamomile, aloe, eyebright, allantoin and wheat protein, 911 Eye Gel tightens and lifts the skin around the eyes and boosts its natural elasticity. Allantoin moisturizes as it hastens the growth of new, healthy tissue. If you want a cooler, icier application store in your refrigerator.

For the man with fine and thinning hair, Vitaman Volumising Conditioner is just the product for you. Feel the fullness of hair without the weigh-down. With peppermint oil, the scalp feels refreshed and free from irritations. Its scent will also keep you calm and relaxed while you shower. Vitaman Volumising Conditioner contains natural protein and plant extracts which strengthen, nourish and condition fine and thinning hair and improve hair growth.

Revitalize your skin with Shiseido Men Power Revitalizing Set. It’s your expert grooming and skin care kit in a pouch, and it’s very easy to carry when traveling. This product is sure to cleanse your skin thoroughly and fight signs of aging, like wrinkles and dryness. The set contains a Total Revitalizer, Cleansing Foam, Total Revitalizer Eye and Urban Environment UV Protection Cream. Definitely perfect for protecting your skin and keeping it hydrated and smooth all day long.

CONTINUATION FROM PG 39

quicker than their peers anywhere else except Brazil.”

Market Overview

Euromonitor International says “large players are expected to continue operating in the Venezuelan market thanks to an attractive size and positive consumer interest.” This is despite the Venezuelan government’s price fixes on some brands and heavy restrictions on imports. Though violence and economic hardships continue to plague the country, Venezuela seems to look to its beautiful women for inspiration and hope. According to McPhedran “beauty pageants reign unchallenged as the most popular spectator sport” in the country. Venezuela has won the Miss Universe contest more times than any other country per capita, and Venezuelan women have an obsession with plastic surgery and beauty consumption. McPhedran also reports that “in 2011 Venezuelan women had nearly as much plastic surgery performed as their British sisters,” although “Britain is over twice as large” and “three times richer.” He calls the country “beauty-crazed.”

South America

f you follow the beauty industry globally, you probably know that South American markets are seeing tremendous growth, although there has been a bit of a slow down in recent months. Overall, however, experts say the region is on the rise when it comes to beauty consumption. Mr. Sinji Iga, former Vice President of Kaneka, says there is general longterm growth, but we are seeing a bit of a flat spell at the moment. That said, Venezuela and Brazil, in particular, have an exceptionally sunny forecast when it comes to an upward trend in the beauty product market. By all accounts, Brazil is set to take the stage as the number two consumer of beauty products in the next few years, overtaking Japan’s second place spot behind the U.S. The beauty industry is one of Venezuela’s largest, and Charles McPhedran of stuff.co.nz reports that “Venezuelan [consumers] are increasing spending on make-up

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

But even more than Venezuela, the real South American beauty maven is Brazil. Brazil’s been getting a lot of press lately outside of its rise in the beauty world: its recent spotlight as the host of the World Cup turned the world’s eyes on the country in a big way. The Brazilian government had to launch a huge campaign to crack down on violence, mostly initiated by the country’s fierce gangs which run some of the poorer neighborhoods. And Brazil will have to continue its clean-up campaign in anticipation of the 2016 olympic games which are bound to draw even more attention to the

an unquenchable thirst for all things beauty. In 2012 an average Brazilian consumer spent $240 on beauty products, while today she spends $260. This desire is also evidenced in the fact that one of the owners of Brazil’ second largest cosmetics company (after Natura Cosmetics), O Biticario, is now one of the world’s newest billionaires, Forbes reported earlier this year. The company saw a 20% increase in sales from 2012 to 2013 (Forbes). Between the years 2006 and 2011, cosmetics sales in Brazil increased by 142%. Sales are going to continue to grow too. Hana Ben-Shabat, of the global management consulting firm A.T. Kearney, says Brazil is basically an irresistible market for retail expansion, while Natalie Erlich of CNBC claims retail sales are “growing four times faster than the U.S.”

country, bringing in thousands of tourists for the summer games. But there are also plenty of positives to be brought into the light when it comes to this beautiful country which has birthed some of the world’s most celebrated super models and boasts some of the world’s most beautiful beaches, not to mention it’s a beauty groupie’s mecca. It’s no wonder the country’s beauty industry is booming—beauty seems to come naturally for Brazil. The economy is going to get a bump from the Olympic Games, and the country has already begun an investment of $3 billion in its airports in anticipation of the influx of tourists and athletes. Brands like L’Occitane and OPI launched special, Brazilian-themed products ahead of the World Cup (see OPI’s Brazil Collection and L’Occitane’s Jenipapo Shower Oil). Imogen Matthews of the Global Cosmetics Industry reports that over the past couple of decades the growth in Brazil’s beauty industry has exceeded its general industry and GDP growth by a large margin. Its market is valued at $42 billion according to Euromonitor (U.S., $69; Japan, $47). In 2012, exports contributed to industry growth, totaling $145 million just for hair care and oral hygiene (Matthews). Hair care and fragrances alone, make up almost 40% percent of beauty/personal care sales (Euromonitor). Like Venezuela, Brazilian women have what seems like

So what’s causing the increased desire for more beauty products? Erlich says “the growth of the country’s infrastructure” is contributing. New shopping malls are opening every year, and outside companies are ready to invest in the country. Sephora opened its first store in Brazil in April of 2012 and Estee Lauder has a proposal in the works to bring in Smash Box cosmetics and Zegna, Tom Ford, and Michael Kors fragrances before 2016 (Erlich). Ben-Shabat adds that Brazilian consumers are open-minded and willing to try new products and brands. Brazil’s middle class is expanding, more women are working, and many of them have more disposable income. But the retail upswing is somewhat of a new trend for Brazilian women, who have traditionally preferred to purchase beauty products by direct sales. They actually account for more than 20% of Avon’s total profits, ranking as the number one market for the company. Natura, a Brazilian owned direct sales company, also makes up a significant portion of its beauty product sales market. The Global Cosmetics Industry points out that Brazil’s biodiversity will be another factor that contributes to its growing beauty market in the coming years. Ingredients like murumuru butter, called the “new argan oil” will make their way into beauty product lines like L’Oreal, which has already begun using the trendy ingredient in its products (GCI). Looking finally to the market for hair extensions companies in particular, Mr. Iga of Kankeka forecasts positive growth in ethnic markets with slow growth on the Latina hair side. Regions with higher percentages of black or mixed race populations will continue to see a rise in sales because these populations are nearing 10% of the total population of the country itself. He comments that there will need to be some kind of a driving force behind the Latina market before we will see any strong growth there.

Africa and the Middle East

f you were to wander the streets of Cape Town, South Africa and watch as the salty ocean breeze pulled at the hair of the passers-by you would likely catch a glimpse of the dynamic cross-section that makes up the African hair care market. According to the 2013 Euromonitor International report, estimates are that the hair care market in Africa and the Middle East racks up to $4.2 billion. The beauty market in these regions has been growing dramatically over the last several years, and in Africa, the hair care market in particular has seen extensive innovation.

In an article with Voice of America’s Gillian Parker, one Johannesburg stylist marks the increase in extensions and wigs to the improved quality of extensions available as well as to the wide range of prices. Parker notes that at some salons extensions cost $10 while at a high-end establishment they can range up to $800. South Africa, although considered by some to be the most established market, is by no means alone in consumption. McBride Research Labs, the manufacturer of the brand Design Essentials, recently launched in Nigeria. Cornell McBride states that the Nigerian market in particular holds a significant potential for growth; the company opened with a variety of teaching opportunities in Lagos on July 24, 2014. News anchor Esther Ugbodaga, in an interview with McBride, suggested that young women in Nigeria consider hair care to be more essential than any other product. While hair care is one of the highest grossing markets, it is not the only one to experience growth in Africa. Euromonitor shows that color cosmetics have also seen serious increases in

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

profits in the last few years. The dynamic is reversed in many Middle Eastern countries, with color cosmetics beating out hair care for revenue. For many of the 38 million women of Iran, make-up has become a daily routine. Iran is the 7th largest country in terms of cosmetic purchases, a fact which is made more impressive considering the country ranks 18th in population. Cosmetics researchers have found that Iranian women purchase, on average, one new tube of mascara a month; this is in contrast to the one tube purchased every 4 months by French women. Despite high demand, embargoes and trade restrictions have limited the availability of foreign cosmetics. Only 40% of cosmetics sold come from certified vendors; the remaining 60% of all beauty products sold in Iran are bootlegged. Lancôme recently renewed its trade ties within the country after several decades; the brand hosted a massive party in Tehran to celebrate. Iranian fashion designer, Tina Zarinnam, told reporters, “Iranian women wear makeup as soon as they get up in the morning. Even if they feel ill, they know that they must look beautiful in the street.” Iranian women are not the only ones with a love of lipstick; in Saudi Arabia the estimated revenue for beauty products reached $397.2 million in 2010, and it’s expected to reach $502.9 million by 2015. Some suggest that the dramatic consumption of make-up in the Middle East is in response to the restrictions women have in regard to appearance. In many countries all but the face is covered leaving only one place for style-based self expression. Meanwhile the use of haircare products, such as wigs and extensions, is significantly lower. That is not to say that there is no market for hair products in the Middle East. In fact Euromonitor reported significant growth, especially in the area of products that features two-in-one benefits.

Europe

n the aftermath of the recent economic turbulence, the European cosmetic and personal care market saw an upswing in revenue but, as 2013’s Euromonitor report shows, has begun declining in some sectors. The last year, as well as seeing a decrease in revenue, has seen an increase in regulations that cosmetics and personal care manufacturers must meet. Despite these difficulties, some parts of the industry are still doing well and even growing. The hair extension market, in particular, has seen an increase in revenue. The European hair extension market has seen steady income and considerable growth; while there are not official figures available, the sector is estimated to be about £65 million with an annual growth rate of 30%. This increase may be in part due to recent developments and trends towards fuller hair. Louise Bailey, founder of Extension Professional, a UK based brand has seen this growth first hand. After developing her own product, she has achieved significant success. “There was a lack of quality and consistency in the work, regulation had not caught up [with] what was happening on the high street. But that gave me an opportunity to advance techniques and improve training, so customers are properly treated throughout the chain, from correct application and keeping extensions in the best possible condition to their removal,” said Bailey. Within the first year the company’s profits turned over $340,000, and they now have 40 salons within their fold. While the market for

hair extensions in Europe is clearly growing, it seems that there is still room for more. Although trends may come and go, there is a constant stream of men and women alike with hair-related issues. The never-ending improvement to and research into extension and wig quality is a major factor in the continuing and increased popularity of this market. Meanwhile, cosmetic sales went down 0.6% between 2012 and 2013 with the 2012 year end revenues at over $10 billion. Italy and Spain are credited with doing more than their fair share to bring the market average down; Italy’s cosmetic revenues were down 2% and Spain’s down 4%. Even the U.K. saw a drop in revenues, a surprising 1.3%; the market in the U.K. has seen steady growth the last few years. Germany and France, on the other hand, both saw growth of 1.3% and 0.8%, respectively. Despite Italy’s decrease in cosmetic profits internally, the export of cosmetics has seen an increase in revenue. A recent report found that while domestic purchases by women have decreased, those by men have increased; as of yet this increase hasn’t been enough to offset the overall revenue. Italian brands have been adapting to the current trends, and organic and natural products have seen an increase in profits. This lean towards natural products is not cloistered to the Italian market; increases in the profits of natural products can be seen the globe over. The global interest in products that boast natural and organic ingredients may be part of the recent trend towards the banning of animal testing, which was recently stopped throughout Europe by the European Union. On November 30, 2009, the EU passed regulation 1223/2009 which came into full effect in 2013; the regulation established new rules on the composition, labeling, packaging and testing of products. These new regulations have been a source of difficulty for many companies; a recent study showed that there were many aspects of the new requirements that some manufacturers have had trouble with. The study surveyed a variety of people within the industry and found that among the troubles at the top of the list, some of the most plaguing were which preservatives were approved and alternatives to animal testing. Animal testing has been a recurring theme the last few years; the EU banned it with a 2009 bill, and in the last few months, Brazil and China have begun working on legislation to change their animal testing laws as well. One of the issues for manufacturers as of now is that with the EU ban they are faced with contrasting requirements. While the EU now forbids it, there are some places, such as China, where animal testing is required. In cases such as these, manufacturers are faced with alienating their European customers or with avoiding a lucrative market. With the

have also seen growth. Overall, the past year has been an interesting one for the European beauty market; profits have been down, and regulations have been up. The EU is continuing the process of enforcing its new bills. It’s likely that the manufacturers of cosmetics will still be adapting to the changes for a while to come.

Asia

lobalization prompts changes from country to country, bringing ideas and trends of all sorts and forms. Above all recently, trends in beauty and fashion dominate the way the world thinks, causing consumers to want to improve personal appearance, the way they dress, and the choice of brands and products they buy. Consumers have the need to follow these trends in order for them to be part of the “in” crowd. According to research, this need to follow trends causes people to spend much more than they are actually willing to spend, increasing economic growth on certain countries. Therefore, wigs and extensions, beauty and personal care products help in improving the economy for most countries, and that includes countries of Southeast Asia.

EU now fully backing the ban, other legislation may come around quicker; in the next few years we may see fewer countries that require testing. While the industry as a whole and several sectors in particular, such as hair care, have seen down swings, the market for home spa treatments has been experiencing a growth spurt. The trend is attributed to several factors; for one, studies have shown that European women are generally less likely to visit the spa. A 2013 Happi article reported, “just 6% of Italian women say they regularly visit a spa, compared to 4% of French and Spanish women and just 2% of German and British women.” Another aspect is time; a study by Datamonitor found that many women sited not having enough time as a major reason to avoid the spa, turning instead to the use of at home treatments. Datamonitor senior analyst, Ramaa Chipalkatti, listed a “recession based mindset” as another of the causes, “Since the global financial crisis, we have seen a growth in product launches that enable consumers to carry out beauty treatments at home, that up until a few years ago could only be done by a professional. Despite having a higher price point compared to ‘normal’ cosmetics, these can be perceived to offer better value for money,” This correlates with an increased market for products that have dual functions such as BB creams, which

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

The economies in Southeast Asian countries are improving in growth thanks to the consumer’s need to be on trend with the rest of the world. Southeast Asian consumers are now interested in spending on beauty products, cosmetics, wigs and hair extensions, skin care, hair care, and all other products related to beauty. Teenagers, with their access to YouTube videos and beauty blogs, are now part of the beauty market, catering to their skin, facial care, and cosmetic needs. Wigs and extensions are more popular among people with higher lifestyles, and people who are involved in fashion. But the altering of hair color and texture is most popular among most consumers. Hair salons can be found on almost every corner of major cities in Southeast Asia, competing amongst each other with prices ranging from affordable to high-end. Japan is known to consume wigs and hair extensions for numerous purposes. Aside from wigs for cancer patients, wigs are also made for theatrical purposes –the Geisha wigs. Geisha wigs are worth $450 or more and are used in Noh, Kyogen, Kabuki, and Bunraku theaters. Costume wigs are one of the most popular and fast selling wigs for young Japanese consumers, especially in the world famous Harajuku. Harajuku is the hotspot for independent fashion and cosplay, where young teens flock together and show off their love for anime and fantasy characters. But it’s not just the teens, balding men spend money on toupees, covering certain

improvement. Chinese consumers, with their increase in household income, have felt the desire to achieve beautiful and younger looking skin. They spend money on skin care products from other countries rather than local. Because of this, China has become one of the largest world markets for imported luxury skin care products. Male consumers have also embraced gender-specific personal care products, to improve personal appearance. Chinese parents are spending on age-specific products, giving their children the kind of products that they need.

areas on their heads that lack hair. Dominating the world with K-Pop, Korea has culturally influenced most of Asia with their bold and aggressive taste in fashion and style. K-Pop superstars have bedazzled the world with their boldness and flawless beauty; everyone wanted to be like them. Because of their flawless white skin, demand in whitening and anti-aging products, especially in Southeast Asia increased. Whitening products in the form of soaps and creams, from countless brands can be found on the shelves of retail stores and outlets. In the wig industry, top hair pieces are popular in Korea, because they add more volume to the hair, and allow the user to add more style to their look. Colored top pieces add color and highlights to their hair, giving them an even bolder, more aggressive look. Overtaking the United States, China has become the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest economy, and according to Euromonitor International, the world of beauty took a big part on this

Fusion hair extensions are also popular in China, because they are adept at adding more volume and style to the userâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hair. Medical wigs and hairpieces that are made specifically for cancer patients are also in demand. The brand, Rebecca Wigs, has opened luxury wig shops in numerous shopping malls, selling both fashion and medical wigs. They come with a high price tag, around $800 for human hair wigs, however, their sales are showing strong growth for wig and hair extensions. Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wig and extension market is estimated to be worth about $280 million, which is small compared to the size of their population, but it still has room to grow. Consumers from the Philippines and Indonesia want to become more confident in who they are fashionably, rather than humble and conservative as they were before. Daring to look more different than modest, Filipino consumers take to hair coloring and bleaching, perming, and keratine treatments. Slowly, Filipinos are embracing bold hairstyles and hair color to achieve certain looks and trends. Though cosmetology schools are lacking, Manila will soon be expanding and hopefully, Cebu, the second largest city in the Philippines, will engage in this as well. As for Indonesia, cosmetic products are popular among teens with mass media as their source on influence. Most brands have more specific products that address certain skin or hair problems, such as Anti-dandruff shampoos. Organic products are more popular in Malaysia. Consumers are well aware of the dangers that chemical ingredients can do to their health and environment. They demand more organic-based products than chemical-based. Premium hair care products are frequently seen on the shelves of retail outlets such as Watsons. According to Euromonitor International, their higher disposable incomes led them to be more confident in spending on beauty products, especially products with sophisticated features. Vietnam will soon be a good potential market for the beauty industry. Cosmetic brands may only satisfy a cheaper market segment, but teenage consumers seek affordable, yet good quality products. Foreign brands are more popular among young consumers, which have now well established in Vietnam.

News

BEAUTY AND HAIR SCHOOL

Beauty School Buzz

PAUL MITCHELL

those chosen as honorees.

JOHN PAUL DEJORIA TEAMS UP WITH FOOD4AFRICA

EMPIRE

Paul Mitchell’s Chairman of the Board, John Paul DeJoria, recently teamed up with Food4Africa to support the distribution of food to the hungry and malnourished children of rural South Africa. Food4Africa is a non-profit organization which produces nutrient-dense food and then distributes it to children. DeJoria lent his support to a recent fundraising campaign for the organization. The campaign offered rewards for the most generous givers, including Paul Mitchell products and lunch with DeJoria.

PAUL MITCHELL RAISING 2014

STUDENTS’

“FUN”

13,000 cosmetology students from 110 different Paul Mitchell schools worked for three months to raise over $2 million for 11 different charities, including the Magic Johnson Foundation, Food4Africa, ELSA, Wells of Hope, Cancer Schmancer, and Children’s Miracle Network Hospitals. The FUNraising Gala was held at the Beverly Hilton. Guests included Magic Johnson, Fran Drescher, Marie Osmond, and Betty White. The St. Louis school raised the most money for a total of $84,184.

PAUL MITCHELL STUDENTS CARRY THE 2014 BEACON COMPETITION Out of 300 honored in the 2014 Beacon Competition, Paul Mitchell students took 51 winning spots and 81 honorable mentions, accounting for nearly half of all

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

FULL SCHOLARSHIP AWARDED TO EMPIRE STUDENT Morgan Nelling of Winfield, Pennsylvania was awarded the George Bradley scholarship to cover the costs of her attendance at the Empire Academy in Shamokin Dam, Pennsylvania. The scholarship covers Nelling’s full tuition. Nelling, currently a student at the Shamokin Dam location, has been working as a waitress to pay her way through school. The scholarship fund, new this year, was left to the school by an otherwise anonymous George Bradley and contains an endowment that will pay full tuition for one student a year for the next ten years.

REGENCY REFINERY 29 AND REGENCY BEAUTY INSTITUTE TEAM UP FOR THE SHARE THE BEAUTY CONTEST Regency Beauty Institute and Refinery 29, a popular fashion, style and beauty website, worked together using Instagram selfies to promote both brands. The contest was based on different summer styles chosen and presented by Refinery 29. The new trend or look was then announced every Monday from July 8 to August 13. Contestants would then Instagram a picture of themselves wearing the new look in the hopes of winning a VIP Beauty Treatment from R29 and Regency Beauty Institute valued at $2,000. Some of the inspirational looks included “Popsicle Lips,” “Modern Pomp,”

and “Watercolor Nails.”

sight on the beauty industry.

REGENCY STUDENT WINS WELLA’S 2014 TRENDVISION STUDENT CATEGORY

BROWN AVEDA

Wella’s 2014 Regional TrendVision competition was held in Minneapolis, Minnesota. Four Regency students were chosen to participate in the contest and spent two days prepping their models for the final judging. Cortnee F. from the Olathe, Kansas campus placed first, giving her model a multi-colored pastel look. Another Regency student placed third, giving Regency schools two out of three top spots out of 400 competitors.

OGLE OGLE 2014 BEACON WINNERS Ogle School students Mary Gabriel & Stephani Crall were named Beacon 2014 Winners, and Hanna Hunter, Stephanie Mitchell and Laura Mullen were all named Beacon 2014 Honorable Mentions. Beacon selects the nation’s most promising cosmetology students and gives them the opportunity to network with the industry’s highest profile salon owners and stylists during PBA Beauty Week, which took place July 12-14, 2014 in Las Vegas. These five students were able to attend this invite only event and take part in specialized classes with the biggest names in the industry, get up close and personal with NAHA finalists and gain expert in-

ALUMNUS Sal Misseri, a Brown Aveda alumnus, has been getting a lot of press in the awards arena lately. He recently advanced to the 2014 NAHA finals for his Contemporary Classic design. Winners were later announced at the NAHA Awards Gala. Misseri was also chosen as a Stylist of the Year finalist at the Canadian Hairdresser Mirror Awards.

SASSOON SASSOON ACADEMY LONDON SUPPORTS DESIGNER, EDELINE Sassoon Academy London supported London Fashion Week designer, Edeline, by styling models for the show. The inspiration for the collection—and the hair and makeup looks—came from the show’s tagline, “teenage fantasy of New York.” Sassoon created center-parts and pulled hair into looped ponytails to keep the look “clean and modern.”

SASSOON ACADEMY TO ATTEND SALON INTERNATIONAL EVENT IN OCTOBER The Creative Team from the Sassoon Academy New York have announced they will be traveling to the Salon International Event in London October 11th-13th. Leading the group is Mark Hayes, International Creative Director for Sassoon Academy. They will be presenting a seminar centered around the Autumn Winter Academy Collection. Mark says the seminar will inspire, motivate and demonstrate technique to participants. Live shows will take place Saturday the 11th and Sunday the 12th.

News

COSMETOLOGY BOARD

A Practical Guide to Selling Overseas Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers & Distributors (ICMAD) and the U.S. Commercial Service have partnered to launch a series of web seminars, or webinars, on “A Practical Guide to Selling Overseas.” A webinar is a presentation, lecture, workshop or seminar that is transmitted over the web through the use of video. This webinar is designed to connect companies interested in selling their products and services with international markets they may have not previously had access to. The U.S. Commercial Service in-country specialists discussed market and distribution channels, and experts from local government agencies or regulatory consultants explained the registration proce ss in each country collaborate in these webinars. The Selling Cosmetics in Chile webinar was scheduled last August 19, 2014; previously recorded webinars are available for purchase. The cost of each webinar is $75, while the entire entry series is discounted at $375. The ICMAD office is available for contact for additional information. www.icmad.ps.membersuite.com/

Last Call for Massage Therapist Applications BeautyChangesLives has offered a scholarship program for aspiring massage therapists to any qualifying massage therapy school. Applications to the BCL-Massage Envy Spa-Massage Scholarship Program are open to all entering or continuing massage therapy students. All you have to do is complete a 500 word written essay or a 3-minute video testimonial answering the following question: Why did you choose a career in massage therapy, and what is your vision for changing lives through therapeutic touch? Interested applicants have until Sept. 22, 2014 to submit requirements. For more information, visit the BeautyChangesLives Scholarship page at https://beautychangeslives.academicworks.com/opportunities/15.

TCAT Offers New Cosmetology Program The Tennessee College of Applied Technology-Dickson’s Clarksville satellite campus is now home to a new cosmetology program. It prepares the students in the profession through classroom instruction and practical salon experience. Six main areas covered by the pro-

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

gram include orientation, cosmetology science, hair care, skin care, nail care and the business of cosmetology. The program is mainly a hands-on experience. The students begin work in the salon almost immediately; they start off working on mannequins before advancing to clients. School instructor, Dawn Vandygriff said, “They have a lot of versatility under their licensure. They can do all hair, nails and skin care”.

Virginia College Opens Student Cosmetology Services Virginia College in Lubbock opened V’s Student Cosmetology Services last month. Located at 5005 50th St., V’s is a full-service, student-run retail operation. They offer a wide variety of services at affordable prices. Customers have the opportunity to enjoy affordably priced hair and skin care services. The students of Virginia College cosmetology all work under the direct supervision of licensed cosmetology instructors. The service allows the students to learn the skills and creativity they need to be successful in their cosmetology careers. The program at the college provides students with a solid background in practical, hands-on training and prepares students to take the State Board of Cosmetology licensing examination.

Look Good-Feel Better Program for Women with Cancer The Look Good—Feel Better program is a partnership of the American Cancer Society (ACS), Personal Care Products Council Foundation and Professional Beauty/ National Cosmetology Associations. The program was held at the St. Joseph-Breese HealthPlex July 16. It helped the participants combat the appearance-related side effects of cancer treatment by teaching them different beauty techniques. Participants received a makeover from cosmetology ACS trained professionals who helped them with skin care, makeup and nail strategies. Participants received makeup kits, refreshments, gifts and encouragement, as well the opportunity to meet other participants. In addition, the hospital’s Cancer Care Closet was open, and a variety of free head coverings were available, such as wigs of various lengths, styles and colors, hats, scarves and turbans. St. Joseph’s in Breese offers quarterly Look Good—Feel Better sessions at the HealthPlex. The final session for 2014 will be Wednesday, Oct. 15.

People

IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY

ICMAD Announces New Chairman Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors’ new chairman of the board is Clarisonic co-founder Robb Akridge, Ph.D. Akridge is a founder of Pacific Bioscience Laboratories, the maker of the Clarisonic Sonic Skin Cleansing System. He is a previous member of the ICMAD board of directors and is a prominent influence in the beauty business with a decade of experience at the forefront of beauty innovation and development. ICMAD has also welcomed six new members to its board of directors: Susan Goldsberry, Shawn Tayakoli, Terry Schatz, Colleen Pierce, Ada Polla & Mary S. Ptak.

Avon Elects New Board of Directors Avon Products, Inc. announced that its Board of Directors has elected Helen McCluskey to the Avon Board, effective as of July 2014. Ms. McCluskey was the President and Chief Executive Officer of Warnaco Group, Inc. and a member of the Warnaco Board of Directors from February 2012 to February 2013. “Helen has a valuable blend of branding, marketing and international experience,” said Doug Conant, Chairman of Avon’s Board of Directors. “Having led a public company previously, she brings a wealth of knowledge to Avon’s Board and we are excited to welcome her.”

J&J Announces New CEO and Chairman Johnson & Johnson announced that its Board of Directors has appointed D. Scott Davis as the director of Johnson & Johnson. He was a Chief Executive Officer and Chairman of United Parcel Service, Inc. Mr. Davis will serve on the Audit Committee and the Regulatory, Compliance and Government Affairs Committee of the board. Mr. Davis has presided over rapid growth in e-commerce delivery, international operations and sup-

ply chain and freight at UPS, since being named CEO in 2008. “Along with his knowledge and passion for emerging markets and international operations, Scott Davis will also bring to our board his unique expertise in supply chain logistics at a time of rapid global expansion in the health care industry,” said Alex Gorsky, Chairman and CEO of Johnson & Johnson.

Cosmetics Europe elected a new president Cosmetics Europe elected a new president this past June, Loïc Armand, who has over 30 years of experience in the cosmetics industry. He is joining Cosmetics Europe after serving as the president of L’Oreal’s French branch since 1984. While speaking at the 12th annual European Business Summit in Brussles Armand stressed the development of energy sources in a talk on boosting industrial growth in Europe. He served as a board member for Cosmetics Europe starting in 2001 and since then has also served as Treasurer and Vice President. He will be taking over from Fabio Franchina who has served as president starting in 2012. In an interview with CosmeticsDesign-Europe Armand stated that he is proud of the cosmetics industry, despite criticism, because if they can make people feel good about the way they look they will be happier and more comfortable with themselves.

Meet Too Faced Cosmetics’ YouTube Ambassador Too Faced Cosmetics tapped its first ever YouTube ambassador for their product Better Than Sex Mascara. This young lady’s name is Dulce Candy Tejeda. “Dulce empowers women everyday through her work, instilling confidence and knowledge through her tutorials, reviews and advice,” said Jerrod Blandino, cofounder and creative director of Too Faced Cosmetics. “That’s exactly in line with the Too Faced philosophy, to empower women through makeup and the idea of ‘own your pretty.’” You can subscribe to her YouTube channel, DulceCandy87.

Events

EVENT CALENDAR US SEPT. 17-20 Natural Products Expo, Baltimore Convention Center, Baltimore, 866.458.4935 (United States only), 303.390.1776, expoeast.com. SEPT. 21 NAILPRO Sacramento 2014, Sacramento Convention Center, Sacramento, CA,888.491.8265. nailprosacramento.com. SEPT. 22 PBA Regional Forum, Courtyard by Marriott Boston-Cambridge, Cambridge, MA, 800.468.2274, pro beauty.org/forums/. SEPT. 23-24, MakeUp in New York, Center 548, New York City, 646.354.7226, makeup-in-newyork.com. SEPT. 27-28 The Makeup Show Dallas, Hyatt Regency Dallas, Dallas, 212.242.1213, themakeupshow.com. OCT. 12-13 Premiere Beauty Classic, Greater Columbus Convention Center, Columbus, OH, 800.335.7469, beautyclassicshow.biz. OCT. 19-20, Premiere Birmigham, Birmingham Jefferson Convention Center, Birmingham, AL 1-800-335-7469, premierebiminghamshow. biz. NOV. 9-10, IECSC Florida, Broward County Convention Center, Ft. Lauderdale, FL,877.398.6940, iecsc.com/fl/attendee-resource/iecsc-florida. NOV. 15-16, The Makeup Show Orlando, The Peabody Hotel, Orlando, FL, 212.242.1213, themakeupshow.com.

INTERNATIONAL SEPT. 9-10, in-cosmetics Brazil 2014, World Trade Center, Sao Paulo, Brazil,+44 (0)20 8271 2165. in-cosmeticsbrazil.com. SEPT. 9-11, Cosmeeting Paris,Paris Porte de Versailles (Hall 4), Paris, France, cosmeeting. com, SEPT. 9-11, Creative Beauty, Paris Porte de Versailles (Hall 4), Paris, France, creative-paris.com. SEPT. 18-20, Beyond Beauty Asean 2014, IMPACT Exhibition Management Co., Ltd., Bangkok, Thailand, +65 6411 7701, beyondbeautyasean.com. OCT. 5-6, Beauty Show-Calgary 2014, Stampede Park-Big 4 Building, Calgary, Canada, 10times.com/beauty-show-calgary. OCT. 16-17, COSMETICA Berlin, Medienplatz 1, Berlin, Germany, +49.7225.916.159, cosmetica.de/cosemetica-berlin (website in German only). OCT. 20-22, COSME Tech 2014, Tokyo Big Sight, Tokyo, Japan, +81.3.3349.8519, cosme-i.jp/en/. OCT. 27-30, 28th IFSCC Congress, Palais des CongrĂ¨s, Paris, France, +33(0)1.44.64.15.15. ifscc2014.com/en. OCT. 30-31, 2014 China International Cosmetics Convention 2014, Shenzhen, China, 021.6840.7631. cicosmetics.com.cn/?language=en_US. NOV. 4-6, COSMEX 2014, BITEC, Bangok, Thailand, +66.2686.7222, cosmexshow.com. NOV. 12-14, Cosmoprof Asia 2014, Tokyo Big Sight, Tokyo, Japan, +81.3.3349.8519, cosmetokyo.jp.en.

COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014

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COSMOBIZ SALON SEPTEMBER 2014