MANAGER

The Irrawaddy magazine covers Myanmar, its neighbors and Southeast Asia. The magazine is published by Irrawaddy Publishing Group (IPG) which was established by Myanmar journalists living in exile in 1993. The IPG is an independent, non-profit organization providing in-depth news and information.

EDITOR (English Edition): Kyaw Zwa Moe

COPY DESK: Neil Lawrence; Paul Vrieze; Samantha Michaels

CONTRIBUTORS to this issue: Aung Zaw; Gustaaf Houtman; Kyaw Phyo Tha; Kyaw Zwa Moe; Lawi Weng; Myint Thin; Paul Vrieze; Saw Yan Naing; Simon Roughneen; Steve Tickner; William Boot; Zarni Mann

PHOTOGRAPHERS : JPaing; Steve Tickner

LAYOUT DESIGNER: Banjong Banriankit

MAILING ADDRESS: The Irrawaddy, P.O. Box 242, CMU Post Office, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand.

YANGON OFFICE : No. 197, 2nd Floor, 32nd Street (Upper Block), Pabedan Township, Yangon, Myanmar. TEL: 01 388251, 01 389762

EMAIL: editors@irrawaddy.org

SALES&ADVERTISING: adversiting@irrawaddy.org

PRINTER: Chotana Printing (Chiang Mai, Thailand)

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6

Look East, Daw Aung San Suu Kyi

| Guest

Column

Travel

▪ The Road Less Traveled 56

| Food

| Books

Land of Winds and Shadows 60

| Q&A

Miss Myanmar Opens Up

Features

14 | heritage: The Secretariat’s Second Chance

Some of Myanmar’s defining political moments played out here, but this old Victorian building now lies in shambles. With a little help in Yangon, it may soon get a new lease on life

20 | regional: Southeast Asia at the Heart of Footbal Match-fixing Scandal

The region’s gambling houses help organized crime gangs to generate huge profits from international match-fixing

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COver The Battle for Laiza

From January until early February, The Irrawaddy’s Steve Tickner covered the escalating battle between the Myanmar government and Kachin rebels around the town of Laiza. He recounts how key events unfolded.

31 | COver ‘We Do Not Have Any Plans to Fight’

The Irrawaddy speaks to Deputy Information Minister U Ye Htut about the conflict in Kachin State

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COver Women at War

Female rebel soldiers, nurses and mothers share their stories as a long-running conflict continues in Myanmar’s northernmost state

34 | analysis: Meeting the Spymaster

The Irrawaddy’s founding editor finds himself face to face with one of the former regime’s most powerful and feared men

38 | Profile: Standing Up for Kayin State

She’s building an international reputation and has already scored a meeting with US President Barack Obama, but for Kayin activist Naw Susanna Hla Hla Soe, the focus is local

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business:

Western Oil Caught in Army Regime’s Web Analysts say the military-linked Myanma Oil and Gas Enterprise still has a grasp on foreign firms

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business: Japan’s Rush into Myanmar Snags on Land Ownership Issues

Land-grabbing by Myanmar’s former rulers could complicate efforts to develop the Thilawa special economic zone near Yangon that lie ahead as Myanmar moves to reform its economy this issue of theirrawaddy was produced with the support of the prince Claus fund in the netherlands.