Lapet Thoke and the American Dream

A husband and wife team earn culinary praise by introducing the flavors and culture of Myanmar to California

By EDITH MIRANTE

SAN FRANCISCO—Restaurants can be unofficial cultural embassies for their countries. Even the smallest towns in America now have Thai restaurants, and the pho and salad rolls of Vietnam are ubiquitous as well. But the rich and varied cuisine of Myanmar has had little exposure, despite the diaspora of refugees, exiles and immigrants.

An exception is the critically acclaimed Burma Superstar, with a flagship restaurant on San Francisco’s multicultural Clement Street and branches in Oakland and Alameda. Desmond Htun Lin, who owns the restaurant with his wife Jocelyn Lee, recently told The Irrawaddy about his journey to the United States from Myanmar, also known as Burma, and about his work turning dishes such as lapet thoke into California “foodie” favorites.

When did you first come to the United States?

My family came to San Francisco in 1979. I think our dream was very similar to the dream of others who have come to this country from all over the world: to turn hard work into a better life. We arrived as a family of six with less than $200 and limited English.

How have you adapted Myanmar cuisine to present it to Americans?

Our customers generally are just beginning to become familiar with Burmese cuisine, so our servers have to be more knowledgeable about the dishes than they might at another type of ethnic food restaurant. When we serve our tea leaf salad, we explain each of the ingredients to the diner, and then combine them right there at the table so they can see the culinary design behind the dish. Giving our customers fresh produce, organic when possible, something that is a combination of Burmese, Shan and Chin, is how we “adapt” the cuisine to their taste.

Burma Superstar has always been “politically correct” in support for democracy. Do you think that has affected your business?

We strive to be responsive to the needs of others and to work in their best interests. That extends to our employees and our customers, but also to the Burmese people. It’s not a business-based decision, it’s a moral decision. We have an unusual ability at Burma Superstar to be a window into the entire country of Burma, a part of which is to call attention to the challenges faced by the people there.

Do you have any plans to do business in Myanmar?

While I don’t have any immediate plans to open restaurants in Burma, I am interested in business ventures that include corporate social responsibility, environmental protection and transparency in business operations. I am a founding board member of the San Francisco-based USA Myanmar Chamber of Commerce and the San Francisco-Yangon Sister City initiative, both of which are aimed at strengthening the ties between the two countries.

What are the most popular dishes at Burma Superstar?

Tea leaf salad, samosa soup and our curries are delicious.

What are your own personal favorite Myanmar foods?

Joycelyn and I enjoy anything prepared with shrimp paste and fish sauce, but it is unfortunately not always well received by the American palate. We can eat a bowl of mohinga every day.

Myanmar’s relationship with North Korea has been tested in recent months, with the world raising questions about possible nuclear ties. But if Myanmar’s government wants some distance, its erstwhile partner in arms is making a good impression on the people of Myanmar in another way: its cooking.

In Yangon, diners looking for a bite of North Korean fare head to one spot: Pyongyang Koryo Restaurant on Saya San Road.

The restaurant, which opened in 2011 and doubles as a karaoke joint, is staffed by 12 North Korean waitresses.

“I’m not only a waitress, but also a good singer,” said 22-yearold Kim.

The waitresses perform traditional Korean songs and popular Myanmar songs, though they are not fond of another international music sensation.

“We don’t like that song,” one waitress said of “Gangnam Style,” by South Korean pop star Psy.

The North Korean government operates a chain of Pyongyang restaurants around Asia, including in Bangkok and Phnom Penh.

In Yangon, customers can rent one of 12 karaoke rooms for 20,000 kyat (US $23) per hour.

Like North Korean diplomats working in Myanmar, the waitresses cannot travel independently.