A Gem among Abandoned Capitals

centuries, it did hold that honor for a total of nearly 360 years, until it was finally abandoned after a devastating earthquake in 1839.

These days, Inwa (or Ava, as it was known to the British), is a shadow of its former self, but it is still well worth a visit. Although it can be reached by car on the road from Mandalay International Airport within about one hour, most tourists prefer to take a three- to five-minute boat ride across the Myitnge, a tributary of the Ayeyarwady. Once there, they can admire the remains of the ancient city walls and the palace site and areas of unspoiled nature.

Under its royal patrons, religious learning once flourished in Inwa; so it comes as no surprise that one of its main attractions is the Maha Aungmye Bonzan monastery. Popularly known as the Me Nu Auk Kyaung, after Nanmadaw Me Nu, the chief queen of King Bagyidaw and de facto ruler of Myanmar after her husband became a recluse following his crushing defeat by the British in 1826, the monastery is adorned with fascinating stone sculptures from the 19th century.

Equally worthy of a visit is the Bagaya monastery, where members of the royal family went to study under the tutelage of Buddhist monks. Made of teak, the sculptures here are made of wood, but no less impressive.

Also high on the list of things to see is the early 19th-century watchtower— all that remains of the palace that was once the beating heart of Myanmar power and culture. Unfortunately, for safety reasons, visitors are no longer permitted to climb to the top of this crumbling structure for a panoramic view of the area.

The best way to see the sights of Inwa is by horse cart, which can behired for around 6,000 kyat for the day at the small jetty where visitors arrive from the other side of the river. Many have been spruced up for the coming peak tourism season, and their owners say they give special care to their horses at this time of the year to ensure that they’re in top condition to welcome the expected influx of tourists.

Above: Maha Aungmye Bonzan monastery, popularly known as Me Nu Auk Kyaung, is a main attraction at the ancient city of Inwa. Previous page and immediate left: Carvings at the Bagaya teak wood monastery, which dates back to the 1700s.

Far left: Tourists often hire horse carts to see the sights of Inwa.

But as elsewhere in Myanmar, poor infrastructure is a problem. “The roads on the way to the watchtower and some parts of the road to Bagaya monastery are very rough, so we have to drive carefully,” says U Than Tun, a local horse-cart driver.

Tour operators in Yangon and Mandalay say the y re ce ive fe w complaints about the sorry state of the roads, but they add that they can easily arrange cars for elderly visitors or those with allergies to animals.

So if it’s “off the beaten track” you want, you’ll certainly find it here. But as tourists return to Myanmar in a big way after decades of isolation, don’t be surprised if this neglected gem comes back into its own as a prime destination for travelers looking for the royal road to the heart of Myanmar.