INLE SPECTACLE

People row long-boats with their legs to pull a replica royal barge during the annual Phaung Daw Oo festival.

By ZARNI MANN / NYAUNG SHWE

Inle Lake in northern Shan State is showing off its traditional best in October during the unique spectacle that is the annual Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda festival.

The event that sees long boats holding around 100 leg-rowers in traditional costume tow a stately gilded replica of a royal barge from lakeside village to village, marks the end of Buddhist Lent.

It started this year on Sept. 24, and the 18-day royal barge journey stopping at 14 villages continues until Oct. 11.

At a practice session in mid-September, the view was breathtaking. Oars-men on low boats looked almost as though they were walking on the surface of the water. Behind them, the golden barge headed by a carving of a traditional hintha bird glided silently on the sapphire-colored lake, framed by green mountains.

The festival will reach a rousing climax when the barge carrying Buddha images returns to the pagoda and during traditional boat races which will take place from Oct. 8-11.

The races between teams of up to 100 rowers per boat are a splendid sight and a reflection of the rich culture of the local Inthar people.

But the tradition has experienced some pressure in recent years, locals said.

“In the past we would choose around 20 teams to race, out of around 50 wouldbe entries. But in recent years no more than 20 teams have applied,” said U Toe Aung, Chairman of Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda Trustees Committee and a member of the Competition Committee.

The higher cost of repairing or hiring boats has contributed to the lower numbers of participants.

“To prepare a boat for competition costs around 300,000 kyat, and that is expensive for most people,’’ said U Toe Aung.

Many competitors now just hire a race boat for around 80,000 kyat a day (US$81), which also isn’t cheap.

A rise in the use of motorized boats locally is another factor. ‘’Some of us may no longer row well enough with one leg to be able to compete,” said U Toe Aung.

Racing enthusiast U Thar Gyi, 38, says many former rowers, including himself, are now working in cities and are no longer able to practice or take part in their beloved traditional races.

Racing takes a honing of skills, energy, practice and team work, said U Aung Ngae, 27. “I don’t have the time now, as I have to work,’’ he said.

Female racing teams have also decreased from about 10 teams a decade ago, to two.

“Young women nowadays are unable to spend time practicing. They just don’t have the energy as many of them are working in hotel jobs in cities,’’ said Pao Myaing, 58. “I can’t race now as I’m too old. But I never fail to turn up and cheer at the races.”

Locals also fear that development and environmental change in the region is impacting their traditions.

“Changes in the climate and the environment have caused severe summer droughts. That’s why many villagers are walking instead of using boats. We are afraid that the tradition of leg-rowing will fade away sooner or later,” said U Damadaza of Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda.

“That is why we have tried our best to maintain the annual competition. I want to encourage the youth to maintain our culture.”

Inle Lake can be reached by air, vehicle or train from Yangon and Mandalay. Heho airport is 21 miles away. The lake is 410 miles north-east of Yangon and 205 miles south-east of Mandalay. 