Aphroditus - Eclipsing Gender

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VOLUME ONE

A PH RODI T U S Eclipsing Gender

GENDERLESS FASHION THE FUTURE OF THE

INDUSTRY exploring fashion

beyond the binary

HOW TO STAY FASHIONABLE IN A PANDEMIC “FASHION HAS NO GENDER; SO CIET Y IS JUST ADAMANT TO ASSIGN GENDER ROLES TO EVERY THING AND ANY THING.”

4 SIMPLE

STEPS TO USING A

BINDER


CONTENTS 3

EDITOR’S LETTER

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MEET THE TEAM WELCOME TO THE ISSUE

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HOW TO STAY FASHIONABLE IN A PANDEMIC

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4 SIMPLE STEPS TO USING A BINDER

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SUSTAINABLE GENDER INCLUSIVE BRANDS YOU NEED TO KNOW

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GENDERLESS SEASONAL PICK-ME- UPS

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GENDERLESS FASHION, THE FUTURE OF THE INDUSTRY

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TO BE NON-BINARY

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2021 THE RETURN OF THE MULLET

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EXPLORING FASHION BEYOND THE BINARY AFFORDABLE & ACCESSIBLE

22 GENDER NEUTRAL BRANDS

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WHAT NON BINARY PEOPLE THINK ABOUT GENDERED FASHION

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WHY SOCIETY SHOULD RE-EVALUATE GENDER AS A CONSTRUCT


editor’s letter In the fourth century, the Greek Deity Aphroditus redefined the concept of gender. They blurred the line between being masculine and feminine by dressing and presenting the way they wished. We live in a society today that loves labels. But labels can be restrictive and suffocating. Learning how to accept your gender identity can be very difficult. You may feel like nobody understands you, but you are not alone. It is not a phase.

Being non-binary means having the freedom to be your true self to be comfortable in your skin and love the person you are. Gender identity is one’s own internal experience and perception of self, we cannot tell you how to express yourself but we can offer you some fashion and lifestyle advice. Aphroditus is a brand that believes in inspiring confidence and promoting self-acceptance through fashion.

ELIZABETH WIREDU

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MEET THE TEAM Editor she/her they/them Greetings and salutations. I’m Elizabeth, nice to meet you. I am a London based, student studying journalism at Kingston School of Art. I would like to be able to sculpt history and create a new outlook on contemporary issues. In today’s media industry top influencers do not always represent the masses, I would like to advocate for the underrepresented.

Sub Edtor he/him they/them Hi I’m Harry Brogan, I have always had a major interest in fashion, particularly coordinating items of clothing and utilising things like colour theory to pull an outfit together. Recently I have taken a liking to clothing that fits outside of established gender norms, and would love to explore them more so this magazine is the perfect opportunity to do so.

Art Director she/her My name is Naomi Grant. I am specifically interested in working within Magazine journalism focusing on the music, culture and fashion sector. I have always had a passion for keeping up to date on the latest fashion trends, music artists. As well as this, photography, editing and design has been a continuous hobby of mine. Journalism for me incorporates both of those things.

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WELCOME TO THE ISSUE Our team is extremely excited to edit our very first issue of Aphroditus - a magazine designed to inspire your confidence, creativity and promote self acceptance. This issue focuses on the latest and most popular genderless fashion and beauty products from both independant and high street stores, whilst informing you on social and political issues and providing a platform for your voices. Naomi Grant 5


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ADVICE

WHAT DO YOU WEAR WHEN THERE IS NOBODY TO DRESS UP FOR EXCEPT YOURSELF? By Elizabeth Wiredu

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ur lives have drastically changed over the last year. The loud and vibrant world we used to live in now resembles a ghost town. Most of us now spend all our time at home working or studying in lockdown. Who are we dressing up for? Nobody. Many of us have spent the last few months in loungewear and pyjamas. For the last few months, many of us have hated wearing the clothes we wear yet we instinctively reach out for the items we despise. In 2020, The New York Times coined the term ‘hate wear,’ which refers to clothes that are “neither stylish nor particularly comfortable, yet constantly in rotation”. However, being at home allows us to be more creative. For many people, being in a lockdown has allowed them to express themselves without the fear of being judged. Fashion is an artistic form of self-expression and representation. 3 Steps to help you stay Fashionable during a pandemic:

Step one - Know your wardrobe inside out If lockdown has given us anything. It’s time. Time to find ourselves through fashion. The first step to staying fashionable during this pandemic is to know your wardrobe inside out. Marie Kondo wrote in The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up that you should keep “those things that speak to your heart. Then take the plunge and discard all the rest. By doing this, you can reset your life and embark on a new lifestyle”. By knowing what your wardrobe has to offer you can start building your style. Step two - Seek out inspiration. “Fashion is a statement, it’s a way of being yourself. As a non-binary person, I want to show people who I truly am because I am unapologetically me,” University of Reading student Adlia Aboobarker said. Social media sites like Instagram and Pinterest allow you to take inspiration from influencers and models. But that is just the start. Being at

home is a great opportunity to try a new style. Playing around with your hair, outfits and makeup can give you a new look. Take inspiration from people walking on the street and take inspiration from the customers at your local supermarket. “To me, how I dress is like a superpower because it inspires me to be me,” Adlia continued. Step three - Be comfortable Being comfortable feels different for every person and finding a style that compliments you is a process. There is not a magic piece of clothing that will fit every person and make everyone feel more comfortable. But finding clothes that make you happy is where you should start. Your style should be an extension of yourself. Yas from the University of Birmingham said: “My declining health has taught me over the years that it is more important for me to feel comfortable with how I dress rather than cater to what other people want from the way I dress.”

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4

Simple steps to using a

BINDER

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ADVICE

Use a professional binder Finding an affordable and high-quality binder can be very difficult. Two binder outlets who have been recommended by the LGBT foundation are; GC2B and Spectrum Outfitters. Both of these stores are accessible online and sell a wide range of sizes and colours including a selection of nude shades for all complexions. All prices range from £20-£40.

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Pick the right size of binder to fit When picking your binder it is advised to measure your chest area. Be sure to follow all size guidelines provided so that you have a safe and combatable fit. If you experience pain whilst binding please speak to your GP or nurse for further advice.

TOP TIPS Apply corn-starch/baby powder on your body before putting on binder to absorb moisture or sweat

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Decide which style binder works best for you

Short binders often end right at your waist, or underneath your bust. Long binders tend to reach beneath your waist and about an inch before your belly button depending on your build/ body type. Select either a long or short binder based what is most comfortable and convenient for you. If you have a stronger/heavier build, you may benefit more from a longer binder.

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Putting on your binder When putting on your binder for the first time you may need to adjust your chest area to achieve a flatter appearance. You can also alter the fit of your binder by adding Velcro or spandex to prevent it from rolling up. Do not sleep in binder and try and space out your wearing time.

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Climate change, water pollution and deforestation can all be linked to the fashion industry. Making a decision to shop with sustainable and ethical brands can and will make a positive difference to the planet. The fashion industry has seen a surge of unisex options and labels that are both sytlish and eco-friendly.

TOMBOYX

LONELY KIDS CLUB

The creators Fran and Naomi started their business out of their garage and they did this because they wanted to make a range of underwear that fit their personality. TomboyX is a sustainable clothing company that focusces on providing unisex undergarments for all shapes and sizes. Their aim is to give their customers the freedom to enjoy more masculine pieces. Tomboyx hopes to change the fashion system on all fronts by creating items which speak to everyone regardless of gender. The company believes that everything you put on your body should make you feel comfortable with who you are.

The Lonely Kids Club are a brand who are passionate about mental health awareness. Their aim is to create a safe, gender inclusive space for everyone. They believe in the process of slow fashion, which means all their items are quality-based. They work with seamstresses in Sydney and only produce small batch products and print at a time. This is to ensure that none of their items go to waste. At the Lonely Kids Club they design, draft and concept all their garments from scratch, meaning all their clothing are made ethically. All by-products of the printing process are reused or recycled.

By Elizabeth Wiredu

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HONOURABLE MENTION

FASHION

OLDER BROTHER Based in New York Older Brother celebrates the quirky singularities of life. They are a gender neutral brand with an eco-couscous range of garments. They focus on using natural materials and dyes to ensure a sustainable and ethical product. Their clothes that are universally tailored to fit everyone regardless of gender.

RILEY STUDIO Riley Studios have created a wardrobe of gender-neutral garments that are kind to the planet. They believe in transparency and providing information on each of their suppliers and factories within their supply chain to ensure an ethical approach to fashion. Riley Studio’s aim is to create products that can be worn for years to come. They are on a mission to “change consumers’ mindsets and make conscious consumerism the norm.” Riley Studio’s believes in a future where people and the planet work together in harmony. That’s why they put eco-innovations and sustainability at the core of everything they do.

LANE FORTY FIVE Lane Forty Five believe that clothes are our second skin. Tanmay Saxena, the creator of the company officially launched the brand in 2015. Their garment designs are inspired by stories, poetry, landscape and sounds. Each of their items are made to order thereby supporting sustainability and slow fashion. Their items are made with organic and natural fibres and materials, which are good for the environment. For every item sold Lane forty Five plants at least two new trees ensuring the growth of and development of the planet. In their current collection, they have salvaged vintage fabric that was found in France.

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sPipckr-min g s p u e

s u o e rg o g e m o s in st e v in let’s It’s a brand-new year so w lo g a u o y e iv g to d e te n a r gender free goodies, gua

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PUCKER-UP LONG LASTING LIPSTICK: PLAY NUDE, £14

CLEANSE Tood Turn It Off Makeup Remover £15.70

REFINE BROW Fluide Browzey Brow Gel 6ml/0.2fl.oz, £8.70 PURIFIY Tea Tree Anti-Imperfection Daily Solution £13.00

FASHION

FRESHEN UP Calvin Klein CK One Eau De Toilette 200ml Spray, £32

SOFT TOUCH Fenty Skin Hydra Vizor Invisible Moisturizer Spf 30, £27.20

COSY UO Black Scarface Hoodie £52.00

GLOW ON Illamasqua Beyond Powder Risque, £34.00

GROOM Tangle Teezer The Wet Detangler Hairbrush Mint Karma, £12.00

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FASHION

Genderless

fashion Thefutureofthe Industry By Naomi Grant

Some of our favourite Celebrities and Social media influencers have assisted in revolutionising the fashion industry by pushing and promoting genderfluidity to the forefront of the media and inspiring many to be unapologetically themselves. We are excited to announce that many high-street stores this year have plans to release more exclusive genderfluid collections.

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ver the past few years, the world’s most innovative fashion brands have become focused on blurring the boundaries of gender. Popular high street stores such as Zara, Asos and Primark have introduced genderfluid collections and have begun to pave the way to a genderless future. During March 2015 Selfridges also participated in the genderfluid fashion scene, with the release of their ‘Agender’ fashion campaign, which promoted an unparalleled ‘gender fluid shopping experience within all areas of; clothing, accessories and beauty to all customers. Similarly, in Spring 2016 Zara followed Selfridges by launching a new gender-free collection titled ‘Ungendered’, which included 16 items of unisex clothing. The campaign which accompanied this launch was also significant as it involved both male and female models which at the time was unique to see in the industry. Despite the surprise, the campaign proved a hit amongst the public. High-end brands including Gucci, Marc Jacobs, Karl

Lagerfeld, Balenciaga, and Louis Vuitton are also jumping into the genderfluid scene with plans to showcase genderless outfits and accessories during their 2021 runway shows. It is rumoured that the following brands mentioned are also to launch capsule collections within the next few months, all in a great effort to attract a younger generation of (younger millennials and members of Gen-Z) individuals who view gender from a broader standpoint. Social media has also assisted in promoting this movement; newly popularised platform, Tiktok has also excelled in promoting new attitudes towards the non-binary community, with #genderfluid reaching over 589.9M views worldwide. In addition to the efforts made by these reputable brands and social media platforms, there are many celebrities and public figures who been pioneers in bringing gender-fluidity into mainstream fashion. Jaden Smith is just one of the icons who is making an impact on the scene. Jaden Smith is a stalwart for change, and as the face of Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2016 campaign he was photographed with female models wearing a full womenswear look.And more recently Harry Styles was featured on the front cover of Vogue’s December 2020 issue wearing a dress.


Professional Genderfluid fashion shoot for colthing brand

Although many of us commended his bold and creative move, there were others who felt otherwise. And more recently Harry Styles was featured on the front cover of Vogue’s December 2020 issue wearing a dress. Although many of us commended his bold and creative move,

there were others who felt otherwise. Despite all the efforts taken to bring genderfluidity into the mainstream of fashion, it is clear we still have a long way to go. Harry Style’s Vogue cover though iconic was extremely controversial and saw millions debating his decision to wear a dress.

We are stepping into a new age, where Gender is an outmoded construct, and it is by no doubt that the future of the fashion industry points towards complete genderfluidity and positivity surrounding it but to get there sooner we all need to allow ourselves to embrace change.

Free Genderfluid Makeup Lessons Jecca Blac are a UK independent, Gender-free makeup brand who offer free online makeup assistance to individuals struggling with makeup or looking for advice on a particular area. Just send in a selfie/photo of your jawline and they’ll match your shade and suggest a routine tailored to you within 24 hours on any weekday. Jecca also offer a free 1:1 scheduled 10 min video call with a one of their artists, for more information: https://jeccablac.com

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TO BE NON-BINARY “I THINK SOCIETY HAS COME A LONG WAY WITH FASHION BUT SOMEHOW WE’RE STILL STUCK IN THAT BLUE IS FOR BOYS AND PINK IS FOR GIRLS WAY OF THINKING”

By Elizabeth Wiredu Living in a binary world may feel like a cage to some. Clothing has no gender. Assigning gender labels to items of clothing restricts creative freedom. A shirt will always be a shirt regardless of who wears it.

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inary fashion is coming to an end and with that comes the freedom to express your most authentic self. As a non-binary person, you are transcending the boundaries that have been placed around your body by society. Being non-binary means you exist outside strict definitions of ‘male’ and ‘female’. European colonialism was a force in hurting and erasing gender non-conforming people in the past. However, cultures all around the world have recognized genders other than woman and man throughout history. Clothes have become a symbol of empowerment and a tool for self-expression. “Society has come a long way with fashion but somehow we are still stuck in that blue is for boys and pink is for girls’ way of thinking,” said Jordan Brancker, a psychology student from Canada. Fashion has always been an important part of how people define themselves. Some might say that non-binary fashion is having a moment but that is not true. In today’s society the average woman’s wardrobe contains a range of garments that would traditionally have been considered menswear. Fashion is a tool for carving a space for yourself to experiment with your identity. Being non-binary is an identity that has existed for thousands of years. The fashion world has long been inter-

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twined with societal discussions about gender identity. With numerous garments to choose from, assigning a genders to pieces of fabric is absurd as it prevents freedom. The authors of Gender, fashion innovativeness and opinion leadership, and need for touch Siwon Cho and Jane Workman wrote: “As today’s consumers have greater options on where to buy, researchers have studied the relationship of individual differences with choosing source of purchase.” The greater acceptance of gender fluidity in high fashion circles has filtered down to the high street stores and retailers allowing individuals from all backgrounds to express themselves freely. There is no right way to dress like a non-binary individual. The term non-binary is broad because it means different things to different people. Nancy Kelley, the chief executive of the LGBT Rights charity Stonewall, said in an interview with The Guardian that: “Historically, lesbian, gay, bi and trans people have been a hidden population in the UK and this lack of visibility has damaged our ability to secure the rights and the support our communities need.” As a society, we need to accept and normalise not fitting into a specific category. The constructs of masculinity and femininity are shifting and the lines between traditional men’s and women’s wear have been blurred.


WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO LOOK NON-BINARY? During an interview with university graduate Amber, she explained how even she still finds it difficult to not see clothes as specifically made for both genders, a difficulty that is arguably shared between the non-binary community. “I don’t think fashion can be gendered but there is a part of me that does see gender in certain articles of clothing despite thinking oh, anyone can wear this if they want to,” Amber said. “The way I dress directly ties to my gender expression and as long as I alone feel comfortable with that, I feel like I desire approval from others a lot less. Self-acceptance can take you a long way!” The social constructs of masculinity and femininity have been around since the early 1800s and have become increasingly irrelevant as society has progressed, something which second year university student Tyler talks about. “Masculinity and femininity have to an extent almost become antiquated terms, or at least their definitions have evolved past

VOICE what they used to be. I believe to a certain extent there are gendered variants to clothes though. It’s easier for me to say as a cis man but female pants don’t fit around my hips that well, otherwise I would have no problem buying them,” Tyler said. Non-binary people will often express their identity through their fashion and they also like to utilise accessories to really emphasise this, although they will do this in an entirely unique way that honours their individuality. Aspiring political science student Matúš from Switzerland spoke about how fashion has allowed them to feel comfortable with who they are and to express their unique individuality. “I’ve come to learn that I shouldn’t care at all about the negative thoughts others might have about my clothes and expressions. I need to feel comfy and pretty and that is all that matters.” Matus said. “I embrace my queerness and try to express it through my fashion with accessories and articles of clothing that don’t necessarily scream ‘male’.”

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Fashion is finally reaching the point where it no longer has assigned gender roles but there is still a very long way to go in spreading awareness of the importance of this new way of thinking, and it starts with having open conversations with those who are unfamiliar about the topic. Zahra Aimin, a psychology student from Essex University said: “I love experimenting with new styles to see what I can pull off and figure out new ways to pull them off on myself. I’ve recently started incorporating South Asian jewellery into my fashion as a way of getting more in touch with my culture.” “I have also started playing with more masculine silhouettes as I have recently come to love switching from hyper-feminine looks to more masculine looks,” Zahra Amin continued. “I think if we have more opportunities to have open discussions around this topic, this would actually help people

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to understand what the non-binary community is all about.” First year University Student Khushi Songra said: “I believe fashion can only meaningfully progress when the rigid gender norms are denounced. Fashion ought to have no restrictions. It ought to be realised that fashion is a form of expression and art rather than simply a means of labelling and grouping people.” Some people still associate certain colours and styles with specific genders. Which makes it difficult to disassociate certain clothing with these gender codes. However, society has started to realise the differences. Non-binary fashion encompasses all items and all colours. There is not one way to look non-binary. Being non-binary allows you to break away from gender conventions implemented by society. If you do not have to exist in a binary, then why should fashion?

FASHION HAS NO GENDER; SOCIETY IS JUST ADAMANT TO ASSIGN GENDER ROLES TO EVERYTHING AND ANYTHING.


2021 RETURN OF

FASHION

THE MULLET

By Naomi Grant In 2020 we saw the rebirth of the iconic and genderless mullet haircut and this year it’s back again, but even better with many creating, modifying and personalising their cuts for a more modern take on the traditional look.

This year we have seen the comeback of many trends, but the most surprising of them all has to be the 1980’s mullet, which for many is seen as an extremely controversial cut. Over the past year, this hairstyle has thrived on TikTok with the #mullet tag reaching over 1.8 billion views. Like all trends, this first appeared on the alternative side of the internet, where the mullet began to gradually slip into the mainstream media. According to an online source, searches on “How to cut a mullet” have also risen dramatically by 124% within this past year. During the early 2000s, the mullet wasn’t taken very seriously, known as the “ultimate bad haircut” it was used frequently on runways or red-carpet events to help attract attention and spark conversations. The popularity of this style launched around the middle of 2020, specifically during the lockdown pe-

riod where many hair salons and stylists across the world were forced to close their doors to the public due to guidelines. This caused an uprise of DIY hairstyling and compelled many individuals to dive in at this attempt. Although mullets were initially considered as a masculine style in the 1980s, it has proven incredibly popular amongst the Gen Z teenagers who are actively embracing the Genderfluid movement. 2020 has seen many individuals rocking this look with females and non-binary people espousing this style equally as much as cis men. Many female celebrities including; Cara Delevingne, Miley Cyrus, Keke Palmer, Hasely, Rihanna and Barbie Ferreira are also embracing this androgynous hairstyle. Australian born singer and activist for the LGBTQ, ‘Troye Sivan’ also decided to jump on the mullet trend. He shocked fans with his new look during the release of his new music video ‘IN A DREAM’ which came out in August 2020. During an interview last December, the artist told Vogue: “I think I’m going to cut the sides short to make it worse and simultaneously better,”. Troye made it clear that has no intention of getting rid of his new cut only amplifying the style. In other words, his cut is here to stay. Troye is known across the LGBTQ and mainstream media for his gender blending style and his iconic looks. During his 2018 music video release for his single ‘Bloom’, Troye presents enchanting visuals which feature him in multiple chic and genderfluid high fashion fits with a variety of glitzy beauty looks. Which is consistent throughout the entire video. Despite the early controversy surrounding the mullet, the popularity of the style is continuing to rise within the mainstream beauty and fashion industry. And alongside this, the support and acceptance of queer individuals and androgyny, within society is also soaring through the roof. It is quite clear that androgyny is popular with the new generation and for now, we can definitely say that as well as the mullet cut, androgyny is also here to stay.

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Exploring Fashion

Beyond The Binary Talking to a non-binary intern at Vogue Magazine to get an idea of how anyone can separate the innate association many have that fashion is a part of gender, when it doesn’t have to be the case. By Harry Brogan

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n recent years, it has become evident that fashion is no longer as clear cut as it may have once been. Personal style of the masses has always teetered on the edge of what was considered the norm throughout various trends, such as earrings being considered feminine until quite recently and are now viewed as items without gender. Even something like makeup which was considered an entirely feminine concept is now far more open to both men and nonbinary people, and the stigma that it is just for women is becoming a thing of the past. I spoke to Clive Masters, a nonbinary person interning at Vogue to gather their thoughts as someone who doesn’t identify with the gender binary as most people know it, as well as being a person closely tied to the world of fashion. “When I first came to terms with my identity, I was still in high school and felt very insecure about every aspect of myself so feeling comfortable enough to express my identity was difficult initially.” Fashion based shows such as Project Runway have been pivotal in the acceptance of mainstream fashion being separate to gender, and while traditionally associated with female fashion, outlets like RuPaul’s Drag Race have showcased various people that identify as non-binary and has helped to remove the stigma that clothes are strictly male or female. “Previously identifying as male, I had a lot of cargo shorts and band t-shirts and I decided to take a big leap from that style by experimenting with more ‘feminine’ clothing items like crop tops, blouses and skirts and mixing them with


VOICE more traditionally ‘masculine’ pieces like trench coats and blazers. After high school, I studied fashion design at The Fashion Institute of Technology in New York which I loved, and it took me to my current position interning remotely at Vogue Magazine. This has been an eye-opening experience for me as it has helped me to realise how many elements of high fashion are more gender neutral but don’t make it to the everyday consumer.” Some celebrities have been trying to normalise dressing outside of the gender binary, which is definitely helping other people to follow suit and feel less restricted in their own wardrobes. Jaden Smith is a great example, since he has been making an effort to show that items like dresses aren’t just for women. “In regard to things I draw inspiration from, it is tough to narrow things down to just a few but Crona from the anime Soul Eater would be a great one because their gender is never disclosed on the show so they are never put in a box of what they should wear or how they should act. In terms of ce-

Photo courtesy of Jakayla Toney

lebrities, some great ones are Billie Porter, Kristen Steward, James Varley (who is a model) and more recently but to a lesser extent Harry Styles who is very much on the masculine side of things, but he does play with his fashion in terms of incorporating more traditionally feminine pieces.” According to an Ipsos study done last year, over half of 25 to 34-year-olds were in support of the concept that gender goes beyond just male and female. The study also found that men were more likely to perpetuate the problem, for example buying their sons “male” items and daughters “girl” items. “To anyone that wants to present more neutrally for whatever reason: DO IT!!! I can’t stress it enough, if you try to suppress it you will only end up making yourself more miserable. It is so hard to put yourself out there especially in such a judgemental world but what is harder is living your life going “what if?”. Wear that crop top, put on that skirt, wear that tuxedo, whatever you feel is going to make you happy.” Humans being locked into either male

Asia Kate Dillon, Non-Binary Star of Orange is the New Black

or female is actually more of a western ideology, and only arose somewhat recently in history. In the past, the line between male and female fashion was quite hard to distinguish in Europe. The reason gender roles have been so perpetuated is likely down to capitalism, since branding things as male or female helps to drive sales and market to audiences. Unfortunately, this also applies to clothing. “Lately, I do think that there have been a lot of steps in the right direction with more gender-neutral brands being on the rise such as Eckhaus Latta and Telfar, but even more mainstream stores like Zara have been branching out more. As for societal acceptance I still think there is room for improvement but that that’s not to say we aren’t making strides there too. The 18-25 age bracket right now has been exploring their styles more than we have seen since probably the 80’s and we see so many different types of people expressing themselves through their fashion no matter how dubious their parents may be about it.”

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Affordable Accessible

&

FASHION

Gender Neutral Brands Since gender neutral clothing is usually considered quite a luxury, it can be difficult to find fashion that you feel at home in visually and physically, so this list aims to help you access the most affordable and inclusive fashion available to all people - be it in the binary or not. By Harry Brogan ASOS Might seem like an obvious choice, but it is the best place to go for accessible, affordable and inclusive clothing. Any item can be worn by anyone as long as you get the measurements right, and searching for “unisex” yields a variety of gender neutral items.

Stuzo clothing By women of colour, this brand is all about empowerment while remaining fashionable. They have a nice range void of any gender distinctions so anyone can shop here and find something.

genderfreeworld (gfw) A wide range of colourful and muted items, diverse models where every single item can be worn by anyone with each item just having a wide range of sizes instead of being restricted to male and female clothing.

H&M While still being distinguished by gender, both categories have many options for anyone including sweatshirts and jackets, with plenty of colour choices. The most affordable of these brands and stores are accessible in all areas.

Wildfang Full of vibrant patterns and a variety of styles, Wildfang has a variety of cheaper and more expensive options catering to everyone. Their models are a variety of ages, which is refreshing compared to the plethora of young adults you tend to see on clothing sites.

UNIQLO Despite being out of stock at the time of writing this, UNIQLO does offer a variety of unisex items which are sometimes partnered with popular media, such as Star Wars or Pokémon so depending on the range at the time anyone can find something.

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Person wearing streetwear #2

Person wearing streetwear #1

Person wearing streetwear #3

Person wearing streetwear #4

Person wearing streetwear #5

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Thom Brown clothing spring 2018 collection

VOICE

Picture of two genderfulid indivisuals at a public LGBT event Captured by Anthony Tran

OPINIONS ON

GENDERED

FASHION Interviews By Naomi Grant

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Photos: Asos, The Phluid Project

Here at Aphroditus we feel it’s very important to hear and to explore your views. Each month we take some time to gather your opinions on various topics we believe need discussing in our society. We believe your voices matter. This season’s topic is ‘gendered Fashion’. To participate in future Interviews please email aphroditusmag@gmail.com


Ella, 21 (She/Her) Gendered clothing as a concept is something which feels like it’s becoming gradually outdated. More and more people are experimenting with clothing, and in doing so are breaking the rigid binaries which have been attached to them. Gender identity is some-thing internal, something beyond material things. Historically Queer communities have rejected the binaries of gendered clothing, and I think it’s managed to permeate into the mainstream over the past few years. As a society I believe we are beyond boxing clothes into a binary. As more people welcome the idea of gender as something which exists as a spectrum, it only makes sense that we move away from concepts which try to prevent that.

Morgan,19 (They/Them) I think it’s okay to have gendered clothing in the sense that it makes it easier for people to find clothes they like, but it shouldn’t be frowned upon to break that trend and choose from a different section. in an ideal world there would be no gendered clothing.

Cara, 21 (She/Her) I am extremely supportive and interested in gender fluidity, especially through the expression of clothing. Unisex clothing is very limited in its selection, with limited tailored options, resulting in the majority market being filled with oversized, loose fitted clothing. I think that there needs to be more options readily available for gender fluid individuals but there are hurdles that explain why there isn’t so many options readily available. Tailored pieces (clothing that is fitted over the hips, shoulders, chest and waist) there is a difficultly in making gender neutral clothing. In terms of anatomical and physical body differences I think that an option for different fits would help create a wider range of gender fluid clothing. Obviously there would need to be a sensitivity when naming sizing but I think this is a small hurdle in creating a more inclusive and fluid industry.

Oliver, 22 (He/Him) I think people should be able to wear whatever clothing that they feel comfortable in regardless of external opinions

Clementine, 21 (They,Them) Clothes don’t have a gender as they are inanimate objects. At the end of the day it’s a piece of fabric

Amy, 21 (She/Her) Clothing shouldn’t have a gender. people should wear what they want no matter how they identify!

Sorcha, 21 (They/Them) I think that gender as a whole is a societal construction made oppress people and so gendered clothing in my opinion only contributes to the control of the people and the way that they think, it’s pointless and everyone should be able to wear what they want without being labelled masculine or feminine because of that they wear.

Fraser, 24 (They/Them) I don’t really see a need to distinguish between genders when it comes to clothes, I wear what I like regardless of what section of the shop it comes from. men’s clothes have a lot of comfort that I find lacking in women’s clothes and pockets are a god send but women’s clothes are a lot nicer looking and are more enjoyable to shop for.

Thom,18 (They/Them) Usually wear unisex clothing but wear both male and female clothing

Noah,18 (She/Her) I think I hate it but it’s just because I don’t really understand what gender is , I feel like with the trans, non-binary, gender fluid communities growing up, it doesn’t really make sense to consider cloths attitudes or activities to be associated with a gender. These communities show how gender stereotypes strongly stifle new generations and don’t make sense anymore.

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-Amy 21, she/they

Why Society Should Re-evaluate Gender as a Concept Non-binary people’s opinions on society’s view of gender and thoughts on why it should be less of a restricting factor in our everyday lives. By Harry Brogan

T

he World Health Organisation (WHO) identifies that “gender refers to the characteristics of women, men, girls and boys that are socially constructed. This includes norms, behaviours and roles associated with being a woman, man, girl or boy, as well as relationships with each other. As a social construct, gender varies from society to society and can change over time.” The debate on whether gender is restricted to just male and female has been ongoing for a while now, with neither side showing any sign of conceding. The western ideology of gender is far more limiting than it is in the rest of the world. A study done by the University of South Dakota found that various cultures outside of the West had systems to identify a more general term for those outside of what we may know as gender, places like Africa (Northern Nigeria and Tonga to name a couple) and South Asia as well as Thailand. The most well-known of these is probably the Native American “Two-Spirit”, which has been at risk due to past colonising and the tiny number of Native Americans (let alone queer ones) that are

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left in America. While sex can play key role with one’s gender, they are not one and the same. The WHO also states that gender norms can be detrimental to both men and women, but especially in the case of the latter. Societal pressures can lead women to face a greater risk of sexually transmitted infections, unwanted pregnancies and abuse, with the WHO’s statistics saying that “1 in 3 women worldwide have been a victim to physical and/or sexual partner violence or non-partner sexual violence in their lifetime.” An article by Sam Killermann articulates it in a way that anyone can understand: “The famous example [of a social construct, like gender]: money. Nobody would argue that there is any inherent value in the paper; we instead buy into the idea that it’s valuable. Money is a social construction, and it’s very, very real.” When applying this principle to gender, things start to fall into place a lot more. Just because gender is a manmade creation, doesn’t make it any less real. However, there definitely needs to be a conversation about how harmful gender can be if nothing changes.


What are your thoughts on the concept of gender being man made?

VOICE

AMY-“It definitely is - the moment we are born the pressure of social gender norms are implemented. You either have a blue themed room for boys or a pink on for girls. Same with walking into a clothing store everything is separated into gender. It’s everywhere you go but it’s just accepted. It’s deeply rooted in society over generations.”

In your own words, how would you describe the difference between gender and sex?

AMY-“Personally from my knowledge and my identity, sex is defined by the combination of chromosomes you’re born with (XX for female, XY for male etc.) this determines how your body will mature with specific hormones. Whiile gender is how you identify and wish to be referred as. I myself identify as non-binary and she/her and they/them pronouns. It’s what feels comfortable for me, I lean more towards femininity esepcially when it comes to clothing but I don’t necessarily feel wholly comfortable with being a cisgendered female. Gender is how you present yourself with clothing, make-up and ultimately what feels true to you.”

Is there anything you would say to people that think gender is as clear cut as society would lead you to believe?

AMY-“While I disagree with people who have the view that gender is as black and white as male or female, I don’t blame them for thinking this way – it’s so normalised from a young age that it’s understandable that people think gender is a binary thing. However to those people: I would genuinely recommend researching into gender identity as this is nothing new. Gender identity has generations of history behind it.”

Lachlan Watson, Non-Binary Netflix Star

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Why society should re-evaluate gender as a concept

“The reason gender is a social construct is because it doesn’t always correspond to a person’s biology and it’s something that is ingrained and taught by society, with those who don’t associate with what is taught being branded as social outcasts. There is definitely comfort to be found in gender, for example trans people coming to terms with their identity will find it as a freeing experience to express how they feel, but it is also used as a tool of oppression especially by cis people towards trans people and by men towards women simply because the oppressed are expected to look or act a certain way.”

-Accalia 18, he/she “It’s quite damaging that the stereotype of men wearing skirts and women wearing suits is ‘weird’ in society because all that does is further perpetuate gender norms. It isn’t as progressive as people may think, because while it’s nice to see it be normalised it doesn’t help to drive home the concept that gender is manmade which is something the world needs to come to terms with.”

-Oak 21, any pronouns “I believe that gender being man made shows a lot of the reasons why society is the way it is. One half of the world have come to realise that gender is a social construct whilst the other half still cling on what someone said thousands of years ago about two genders. To the people who believe gender is clear cut, you only believe this because you are a part of the majority of people who have never had to identify with anything that is not societies norms. For you to deem that other genders are not possible may be easy for you to say but it’s something that exists and must be acknowledged.”

-Mo 19 he/him

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“In my view, gender was designed to have two categories (men and women) to which a person is put into that category based on their reproductive functions, including the notion that women do feminine things and men do masculine. Gender is certainly a social construct that was created to keep women and men separate in terms of their roles in life, when in reality gender is not binary. To the people that believe there are only two genders – my gender is part of my identity and I get to define who I am as I please. My identity is mine alone. My non-binary identity is valid and real to me and doesn’t require justification.”

-Adila 19, they/them “I think overall, the concept of gender being manmade is something society has put out for everyone to feel as if they belong somewhere, your gender and what you identify as shouldn’t have to be a category, it’s whatever you’re comfortable in, regardless of what your gender is, and societies failure of how people see it is upsetting. Gender is what you identify as, sex is assigned.”

-Bea 20, she/they


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