May 2022
volume one
IRREGULAR The Heart of Alt-Fashion
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Thrift Stores around the UK you should visit
THE MUSIC BEHIND THE
CLOTHES
DAZED IN DEMIN “I can’t dress cute and warm”
Guide to layering clothes
A RECURRING PHENOMENON THE MAXI DRESS
Heart Of Alt-Fashion
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Heart Of Alt-Fashion
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CONTENTS irREGULARS
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Editor’s Letter
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About Irregular
How To
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“I can’t dress cute and warm” A guide to layering clothes 6 Alternative Office Wardrobe Essentials Corporate Professionals are Wearing Right Now
12 How to Fake Confidence Shopping
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6 Thrift Stores around the UK You Must Know
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Patchwork Grunge
16 Flower Power 18
The Ultimate List of AltMakeup Bag Essentials
Trends
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Dazed in Denim
26 Leather Weather 30 The Maxi Dress:
A Recurring Phenomenon
Arts and Culture
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The Music Behind the Clothes Music Rewind
“I CAN’T DRESS CUTE AND WARM” A GUIDE TO LAYERING CLOTHES
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Heart Of Alt-Fashion
EDITOR’S LETTER WELCOME TO THE FIRST VOLUME OF IRREGULAR. THE HEART OF ALT FASHION ashion for me has alF ways been an extension of the mind. Through
fashion, we can decorate and celebrate our bodies. It offers us the freedom to discover what and who we want to be. Sometimes it is almost impossible to believe that it was only two years ago that we reached the dawn of a new decade. This feeling was much on 6
my mind as the summer issue began to take shape this year. New beginnings and new ventures. Even when times look bleak there’s always fashion. Traditionally summer issues are about positive optimism and hope for the future. This year feels like freedom. The pause in life caused by the pandemic has started to fade
and life is shifting back to a pre-pandemic world. And fashion is a reflection of how we see the world. This issue has a strong emphasis on feeling free. Being a person of colour in any space can be difficult. Too often, we are excluded from spaces that take direct influence from Black and Brown cultures. But it is time to
break down the doors. Irregular is a publication committed to sharing fashion perspectives from people of colour. In fact, all the people in this issue have something to teach us about what the future might look like.
Elizabeth Wiredu EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
THE MAXI DRESS: A RECURRING PHENOMENON PAGE 30
ABOUT IRREGULAR
cover look
WE ARE IRREGULAR AND WE ARE PROUD
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he story of Irregular begins with a young black girl. A young black girl who preferred watching Monster High to Barbie movies. A young black girl who wanted to have bright coloured hair and freakishly fabulous clothes. But, when she did a quick image search for alternative fashion inspiration, she was overwhelmed with whiteness. She even found herself adding the words ‘black girl’ to her searches, in an attempt to find media rep-
resentation. When she did not find anything on the internet she felt like she did not belong. A few years later, the girl grew into a woman. A woman who was sick and tired of the lack of diversity and inclusion in the fashion industry. So she created Irregular, a fashion magazine focused on the type of subculture that exists outside or on the fringes of mainstream. I think the name Irregular says it all. We are oddballs and misfits. We are open-minded and carefree. We are free.
Photography: Cottonbro/Pexels 7
Heart Of Alt-Fashion
“I can’t dress cute and warm” A GUIDE TO LAYERING CLOTHES Elizabeth Wiredu explains how layering clothes allows you to mix different colours, patterns and materials, adding depth to your outfit beyond being functional thermals while performing. The key to layering is combining lightweight and heavy fabric. This will prevent you from feeling restricted in the clothes you wear. This season try layering wearing patterned silk button-ups with a long-sleeve tee or tank top.
Shapes
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ayering is a skill, add too much fabric and you risk being constricted. Different fashion clothing items can be layered over each other to create a variety of alternative looks. Mastering the art of layering clothes is just as crucial in summer as it is in the colder months. Many high-end brands like Givenchy and Burberry have broken away from the norms and boundaries of traditional fashion by offering different perspectives on layering. Layering your clothing has two main benefits besides making a fashion statement. The first being warmth and comfort and the second benefit being layering allows for high8
er customisation of clothes.
HERE ARE THE FOUR LAYERING IDEAS TO CONSIDER WHEN GETTING ON BOARD WITH SUMMER’S HOTTEST TRENDS.
Thickness During the warmer months try layering with lightweight jackets and outer shirts. Items made of lightweight and breathable materials, such as cotton and linen are the best of the summer. A plain button-up shirt can make a big difference to your outfit. Kurt Cobain, frontman of the rock band Nirvana, was often spotted wearing flannel shirts with long-sleeve
Excess layers can end up looking bulky and disoriented if all of them are of similar thickness and length. Wearing a garment can be used to draw attention to or away from various parts of the body. Try styling items together in various lengths and proportions. Layers do not need to be fitted. These outfits not only amplify one’s volume but demand attention. If you want to elongate your body, try wearing high rise bottoms because they lengthen your legs. Playing around with different patterns allows you to play around with your shape and silhouette as well. Courrèges and Tory Burch have reintroduced optical, blackand-white stripes to the runway this season. Stripes have a connotation of acting bold and daring, making your look a statement piece this season. Top Tip: avoid oversized inner layers as it’s good practice to go from thin to bulky pieces.
Colours Colour can be intimidating to many people. While we all know that some colours look better together than others, very few of us understand why. Anal-
ogous colours are next to each other on the colour wheel and share a common hue. These sibling-like colours naturally blend into one another creating subtle harmonious looks. You could also try embracing complementary colours this season. By pairing moss green and buttercup yellow. Or you could clash colours by pairing purple and red. You know what they say, opposites attract. Monochrome looks have stolen the spotlight this season. For Valentino’s fall 2022 ready-to-wear collection Pierpaolo Piccioli adopted a vivid tone of retina-vibrating fuchsia. The colours purple and moss green are also in this season. If block colours aren’t your thing, layer up clashing prints. Move away from a basic black and white palette this summer.
Layering accessories Despite the clothing choices we all make, most can agree it’s the accessories that make an outfit. Since 2021, stacking necklaces have become a popular trend. Try layering chains, of various lengths and thicknesses. Accessories can elevate a look by demonstrating personality. The rules are what you make it. Making use of accessories is a great way to add layers to your outfit. For an industrial look try using metal accessories like buckles, spikes, chains, studs, and plates. Or for a more casual look, try heavy accessories, such as scarves or heavy gloves. Fashion is fun and fluid. Being able to effectively layer items in your wardrobe will double your outfit possibilities.
HOW TO how to
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Heart Of Alt-Fashion
6 ALTERNATIVE OFFICE WARDROBE ESSENTIALS
Corporate Professionals are Wearing Right Now Amidst all the hustle and bustle of the work week Elizabeth Wiredu shares the best garments where comfort meets workwear
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here are a lot of different kinds of work environments. If you're working in an office, it's important to be aware of the dress code policy. The secret is creating work outfit formulas
that work on repeat without you becoming bored of your wardrobe. It’s easy to fall to pressure or follow the pack in the workplace, especially when it comes to fashion. There is no "perfect" outfit for the of-
fice because it's all about finding the right fit and comfort level for the environment you're working in. The key to this problem is stocking up your wardrobe with essential and versatile pieces that can be paired
with many other garments to help you to keep your look fresh. For in the office or working from home, read ahead to discover the six best work outfit ideas to take on your busiest days in effortless style.
The Classic Loafer
The Mary Poppins Tote Bag
The loafer can immediately make any outfit look more sophisticated and put-together
Tote bags are sturdy, resilient to wear and tear, and they make perfect companions to your work routines with no problems
Karren Miller Gold Trim Platform Leather Loafer
Harrods Battersea Shoulder Tote Bag
Boots The House Down These boots are fun and bring that pop to an outfit and show your personal style
Bershka chunky lace up boots with platform in black
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HOW TO
The Power Blazer The blazer can take any casual piece such as a t-shirt or tank top and make it look more professional
Ted Baker Blayce Double-Breasted Blazer
The Perfect White Shirt The perfect white button down is a business staple because of its simplistic elegance. You can pair it with dark jeans and a blazer for a more casual workplace ensemble
Poplin Patch Pocket Shirt
Trousers The aim is to find trousers polished enough for work and comfortable enough for everyday
Cotton Poplin Easy Pleated Trousers
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Heart Of Alt-Fashion
THE CULT OF CONFIDENCE CULTURE
MESSAGES ABOUT WOMEN’S SELF-ESTEEM Gender, racial, and class inequalities are persistent issues in today’s society, yet women are called on to just believe in themselves - Elizabeth Wiredu explores how Confidence Culture has impacted our daily lives
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he first step is to realise that confidence isn’t something you’re just born with. Confidence is a feeling that develops and evolves. Some days you feel it and some days you don’t. Modern marketing tends to turn confidence into a pillar of worth. “Faking it until you make it’’ confidence culture tells us. However, waiting for a magical shift is not the answer to feeling confident in your clothes. Confidence is about you, as a person, working on yourself and recognizing how you’re experiencing vulnerability. If you’re trying out a new style, you might feel a wave of insecurity as soon
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as you step out the door. This feeling is strong enough to make you turn around and change into a completely different outfit. But do not put your style on hold because you do not feel confident. As women, we should feel better in our skin. We must make clear that we are not against confidence. However, confidence is both a culture and a cult. The beauty industry has now announced that “confidence is the new sexy.” However, this is damaging to those of us that aren’t confident. Instead, we should be tackling the structural inequalities placed on us. This cult delegitimizes the feelings that
anyone could have about their body insecurities and invalidates their feelings. Poor body image? “Just be confident and love yourself!” Confidence is presented as the solution to a wide range of issues across the fashion and beauty communities. In the book Confidence Culture, Rosalind Gill and Shani Orgad argue that confidence culture suggests that women along with people of colour, the disabled, and other marginalised groups are responsible for their conditions. Confidence culture blames individuals rather than highlighting the systemic issues caused by society. However, confidence is something that we cannot develop quickly. Beauty is not defined by what we wear. In Perfect Me, Heather Widdows argues that our perception of the self is changing. She suggests that we must first recognize the ethical nature of the beauty ideal if we are ever to address its harms. We don’t need more emphasis on blaming and changing women, we need to change the world. Confidence isn’t something that should just be cultivated on individual, competitive terms. Ralph Lauren once said: “Fashion is not necessarily about labels. It’s not about brands. It’s about something else that comes from within you.” Research from the University of Hertfordshire found that ‘happy’ clothes, the clothes that made women feel good were well-cut, figure-enhancing and made from bright and beautiful fabrics. It’s really easy to get caught up in the culture of self-love and confidence.
@spookybrujita on Instagram said: “I wear things that make me feel comfortable, physically and mentally. I stick mainly with alternative styles such as goth, grunge and punk. I switch between them often. “I was always made fun of for my love of horror and Halloween growing up, so now I make a point to show my interest in it through how I dress such as wearing fake blood in my make-up or wearing clothes that are horror-themed. “The music I listen to impacts how I dress. A lot of my favourite artists are very gothic and influenced my style. Bryan Gregory, ex-guitarist of The Cramps (my favourite band) would make a lot of his clothes and sew bones onto them which I’m interested in starting.” We urgently need to shift this emphasis and tackle the structural inequalities placed on women in society. The entire purpose behind fashion is to have the ability to express yourself. So stay true to yourself. You shouldn’t have to wear something just because it’s trendy, wear what makes you happy. If someone else looks amazing in that outfit or that trend, maybe all you need to do is tweak yours. Ultimately, confidence is as fickle as the rest of our feelings, and that’s okay. Yves Saint Laurent once said: “I have always believed that fashion was not only to make women more beautiful but also to reassure them, give them confidence.” As circumstances change and life bends in different directions, we need to continually work on our style.
HOW TO
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Heart Of Alt-Fashion
THRIFT STORES
Around the UK You Should Visit Shopping sustainably has become a vital part of the fashion industry. Elizabeth Wiredu reveals six hidden gems across the country
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hrift stores and charity shops have many benefits to the environment. According to Insider (2019): “85% of all textiles go to the dump each year.” Thrift stores allow individuals to develop a unique wardrobe and explore different styles. Depending on where you visit in the country, you’ll be able to find vintage shops that match the area’s style.
HERE ARE SIX THRIFT STORES AROUND THE UK YOU SHOULD VISIT: 14
Aladdin’s Cave
To Be Worn Again
The Wardrobe
For over 40 years and three generations, Aladdin’s Cave has aimed to provide its customers with one-off treasures and items. The historical Queen’s Arcade is a fitting location for a shop that has stood the test of time. This family-run business has sold jewellery for more than 40 years. Aladdin’s Cave is passionate about antique jewellery, and they specialise in Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco pieces.
To Be Worn Again has a wide range of styles. They are Brighton’s largest vintage and secondhand clothing retailer. With over 25 years of experience in vintage and secondhand clothing, To Be Worn Again supplies on-trend original and traditional vintage items that appeal to everyone whilst encouraging recycling in the ever-growing throwaway society that we live in. They stock vintage Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren.
The Wardrobe offers a selection of vintage, new and retro clothing. The shop opened in 1988 in The Silver Arcade and relocated in 2001 to the Royal Arcade. The Wardrobe’s collection varies for each season, ranging from Levi denim jackets and shorts, classic FredPerry polos, 60’s dresses, flannel shirts, USA college sweatshirts and much more. The Wardrobe has a massive selection of vintage-inspired prints which combine with on-trend brands.
Those Were The Days
Atika
Rokit
Those Were The Days launched in 2011. Their collections are inspirational sources for international fashion designers. Those Were The Days collections range from fabulous 1920s pieces all the way through to iconic 1990s collectable pieces. All items are carefully cleaned and expertly restored before being added to the collection. Those Were The Days collections are heavily curated and merchandised by style and colour in their shop so that shopping with them is a fun and easy experience.
Atika is a department store with floors covered in trendy displays, impressive in their quality and quantity. They offer premium limited edition reworked items made in London. In this stunningly renovated Victorian factory, Atika sells over twenty-thousand vintage items. Atika focuses on vintage fashion, lifestyle and secondhand homeware. Atika pays attention to trends both in the mainstream and vintage worlds. Their design and production process is as environmentally responsible as it can be.
Location: Leeds
Location: Edinburgh
Location: Brighton
Location: London
Location: Leicester
Location: London Rokit started life in Camden as a vintage clothing shop for men’s and women’s fashion. Founded in 1986, Rokit has recycled over a million tonnes of discarded clothing and accessories into eco-friendly and stylish pieces. Now Rokit is a hub for creativity, individuality and a place for all subcultures to connect. Rokit aims to create a unique environment where individuality supersedes the average and mundane.
MCQ Grow Up Quilted Patchwork Padded Cotton Hooded Jacket £840
Rave Review Lou patchwork checked upcycled cotton dress £335
SHOPPING SPECIALS Dsquared2 patchwork wool cardigan £700
EDITOR’S
PICK
Levi 551z™ Authentic Straight Crop Jeans £100
Nodaleto Bulla Harumi Boot £335
PATCHWORK
grunge A 1970s wind is blowing this summer - Step into the new season wearing these patchwork staples
Hollister Ultra High-Rise Denim Patchwork Mini Skirt £35
Baracuta Noah Patchwork Tote Bag £277
Vans Divine Old Skool Patchwork Shoes £75
EDITOR’S
PICK
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Heart Of Alt-Fashion
EDITOR’S
PICK
The Trunk Floral Hand Embroidery on Velvet £1,295
Melissa x LO Black & White Kick Off Sandal
£99
FLORAL
garden
The summer calls for floral and bold prints - and with an alternative take on blooming designs, these pieces have got you covered
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MAJE Piflower floral-print flared organic-cotton trousers £199
ZARA printed linen-blend skirt with ruffles
£59.99
MCQ Graphic-print cut-out velour midi dress
£465
Gucci 100 floral jacquard jacket £2,700
SHOPPING SPECIALS
Koi Footwear Empty Flowers Platform Heeled Boots £55 'Pillings' show by Ryota Murakami Photographer: Masatoshi Okauchi/Shutterstock
ANNA SUI SSENSE Exclusive Black & White Daisy Chains Choker Necklace £125 Swarovski Lilia drop earrings £115
Thomas Sabo Pendant amulet flowers colourful stones silver £398
EDITOR’S
PICK
QUEENS OF ARCHIVE Stevie floral-print chiffon midi dress £320
Mira Mikati floral embroidered organic-cotton cardigan £455
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Heart Of Alt-Fashion
THE ULTIMATE LIST
OF ALTERNATIVE
MAKEUP BAG ESSENTIALS It is crucial to have a makeup bag with essentials that will allow you to create a range of looks. Makeup trends come and go, but some products can stand the test of time. Here are the 12 must haves that you should have in your makeup bag
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BH Cosmetics Zodiac 25 Colour Eyeshadow & Highlighter Palette £25
SHOPPING SPECIALS Florasis Floral Engraving Odey Makeup Palette £44
EDITOR’S
PICK
Gucci 110 Marguerite Jade, Rouge à Lèvres Voile Lipstick £35 NYX Professional Makeup Epic Wear Long Lasting Liner Stick Pure White £7
Vice Plumping Lip Gloss lip loss infused with Hyaluronic Acid £18
Corpse Bride X Makeup Revolution Butterfly Eyeshadow Palette £15
NYX Professional Makeup Epic Wear Long Lasting Liner Stick Orange Zest £7
Inglot AMC Eyeliner Gel 77 £14
MAC Pro Longwear Concealer £22
MILK MAKEUP KUSH High Volume waterproof mascara £24
Dior Mono Couleur Couture eyeshadow in 098 Black Bow £30
Hourglass Vanish Stick Foundation £45
PAT MCGRATH LABS Skin Fetish Divine blush £35
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Heart Of Alt-Fashion
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TRENDS
DAZED IN DENIM Y2K infused denim has made its comeback this season
Photography: Elizabeth Wiredu Fashion & Casting: Elizabeth Wiredu 21
Heart Of Alt-Fashion
This spread Model Alisha wears Denim jacket by H&M, Denim shorts by Zara, Bodysuit by Zara, Trainers By 22 Sunglasses by Dior Nike,
TRENDS This spread Model Zahra wears Cherry top by Urban Outfitters, Denim jacket by Levis, Low rise jeans by Motel Rocks, Heart hoops by ASOS, Trainers by Balenciaga and Daisy bag by ASOS
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Heart Of Alt-Fashion
NEW SEASON
From the Top: 24
Studio Nicholson BIRRO DENIM JACKET £395. STELLA MCCARTNEY Flared denim midi skirt £425. Rejina Pyo Maeve belted denim jacket £518
TRENDS
LEATHER
WEATHER Whatever the weather, leather will have you put together Photography: Elizabeth Wiredu Fashion & Casting: Elizabeth Wiredu 25
Heart Of Alt-Fashion
This spread Model Alisha wears Leather Jacket by Zara, Leather shorts by Zara, White Blouse by Asos, Sunglass by Dior, Boots by Dr Martens, Emerald Green Baguette 26 bag by Amazon
TRENDS
This spread Model Zahra wears Leather Jacket by Zara, Brown Mesh Top by Motel Rocks, Brown Flares by Motel Rocks, Tote Bag by H&M 27
Heart Of Alt-Fashion
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TRENDS From the top: Zara Faux Leather Jacket Brown £49.99, AMY LYNN Jasper asymmetric vegan leather mini skirt £45, STAND STUDIO Leather shorts £399, BERNADETTE Ashley floral-print faux leather jacket £725
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Heart Of Alt-Fashion
A Recurring Phenomenon
THE MAXI DRESS
Skirt lengths have yo-yoed this year - Elizabeth Wiredu explores the move from the Miu Miu micro-mini to this season’s maxi
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ong dresses are the perfect summer allies, this season bold floral print maxi dresses are trending. The maxi dress is completely feminine and suits every figure. This is because dresses are the hero items of the summer wardrobe and allows you to romanticise your life. Taking a cue from the social media-favourite Cottagecore trend, maxi dresses are going back in time this season. Basically, picture the perfect dress for frolicking through fields.
A maxi, for anyone who doesn’t know, is a long dress that reaches down to your ankles or sometimes the floor. They can be worn any season and are a great piece for layering, making them perfect for the ever-changing British weather. With this new season comes a fresh assortment of flowy and fairy-like dresses to pick from. Brands such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Givenchy showcased numerous maxi looks on the runway. The maxi length is great for casual
gatherings, summer parties and many other events. With maxi dresses comes effortless ease. The maxi dress first became popular during the 1960s when it was designed by high-end fashion designer Oscar de la Renta. Since then it has become a versatile piece for spring and summer looks. Until the late ‘60s, mini skirts were all the craze. However, the hemlines got LONGER. In 1968 Oscar de la Renta designed a lace version in cotton for the Elizabeth Arden Salon. This maxi was featured in The New York Times and it led to a widespread craze. Designers such as YSL and Dior led by example, making the maxi dress an epidemic in fashion during the 70′s.
"EVERY SEASON I AM INSPIRED BY WOMEN." OSCAR DE LA RENTA
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When Maxis first returned in the 90s, they were still slightly above the ankle but dropped to floor length at the turn of the century. The modern maxi dress perfectly encapsulates the vintage aesthetic. Halle Berry’s mesh, flower embroidered and taffeta dress by Elie Saab, 2002 is a personal favourite. Sarah Jessica Parker, Kelly Rowland and Angelina Jolie have proven to be a fan of the maxi dress in the past. Beyoncé was spotted in a tribal-print maxi with beaded necklaces, round shades, and platform
pumps earlier this year. The maxi dress is a timeless classic. Most iconically, Lupita Nyong’o wore a Prada pleated, chiffon maxi dress in Nairobi Blue at the 2014 Oscars. No matter the occasion or season, there are always plenty of opportunities to wear a dress. Celebrities like Tracee Ellis Ross, Monica Bellucci, and Byun Jeong-soo have been seen looking fabulous in their floor-length dresses this season. For a more casual look, pair your WEEKDAY’s Joanne Printed Mesh Dress (£40, weekday.com) with sneakers. Or rock All Saint’s BRYONY ASAGO dress (£99, allsaints.com) with flats and sunglasses for a funky and stylish summer look. If you would like a more structured look to what can sometimes be shapeless, try cinching a belt around your waist. On the other hand, Jacquemus Black Valdu Dress (£603, jacquemus.com) requires no additional styling for a sleek and bold look. If you would like a look for the beach, pair Urban Outfitters’ Archive Fossil Print Maxi Tube dress (£45, urbanoutfitters.com) with flat sandals, aviators and a whole bunch of accessories. This season the bigger and wilder the jewellery the better. With a plunging neckline and delicate ties Envelope1976’s Venezia Open-Back, Pleated Silk Voile Maxi Dress (£415, net-a-porter. com) is a gothic chic choice for this summer. Style yours with platform gladiator sandals or with an animal print blouse for a more modest look.
TRENDS
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Heart Of Alt-Fashion
MUSIC REWIND
Celebrating artists of colour within the alternative music scenes - past, present and future
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ARTS AND CULTURE
Skinny Girl Diet Editor’s Favourite Track Witch of the Waste
Pinkshift Editor’s Favourite Track bathroom community
Meet Me @ the Altar Editor’s Favourite Track Brighter Days (Are Before Us)
Fade ‘Em All Editor’s Favourite Track brainwashin
Monsune Editor’s Favourite Track nothing in return
Nova Twins Editor’s Favourite Track Taxi
Yasmin Nur Editor’s Favourite Track Too Cool For This
Yeule Editor’s Favourite Track Pixel Affection
Sunset Rollercoaster Editor’s Favourite Track 33 My Jinji
Heart Of Alt-Fashion
THE MUSIC BEHIND THE C LO T H E S Speaking to artists and fans of alternative music, Elizabeth Wiredu explores how the Western music industry has failed people of colour by centring whiteness for so long
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usic is powerful. It gets under our skin, into our hearts and moves the soul. Fashion and music go hand in hand. Fashion styles were originally adopted as a mechanism for expressing the type of music one listened to. But soon music became a critical factor in explaining and presenting a particular style. Those who preferred similar music started to wear similar styles of clothes, creating a safe and secure community. Individuals often sought out effective ways to portray their taste in music and fashion, both being the most effective form of expression. Alternative Music refers to the genre’s distinction from mainstream or commercial rock or pop music. According to Merriam Webster alternative is: “music that is produced by performers who are outside the musical mainstream, that is typically regarded as more eclectic, original, or challenging than most popular music and that is often distributed by independent record labels.” Alternative subculture usually stemmed from a love of music which went against the grain. But 34
when you take a closer look, the numbers paint a different, less diverse picture. An entertainment industry manufactured to cater to whiteness, not only fails marginalised communities but also prevents diversity and inclusion. When we’re constantly exposed to straight white cis male bands on lineups and magazine covers, people are taught that they don’t belong. Research shows that by the age of seven occupational gender and ethnicity stereotypes are ingrained in their mind. This reinforces the need for greater representation in all walks of life. This categorisation of black artists in rap and R’n’B is dangerous because the industry disqualifies musicians of colour in certain genres and inherently teaches them that they don’t belong. The History of Punk Rock The music industry has been touched by some remarkable musicians and performers over the years. When looking at the history of Punk Rock, there are a few bands that have been overlooked and forgotten. Like many aspects of pop culture, its historical image has been whitewashed.
Music labels and producers alike have built their empires on black creators in more ways than we’re willing to acknowledge. When you think of punk’s history, it’s bands like The Clash, the Sex Pistols and the Ramones that usually come to mind. Many would consider Punk Rock to be a “white genre,” however, many of its origins lie in the black community. Punk Rock originated in the 1970s, an era remembered for the women’s rights, gay rights and environmental movements. Punk offered a new soundtrack for the working class. The year was 1974, during the high point of punk culture in New York City, London and Los Angeles when Pure Hell was formed. Pure Hell took New York’s underground scene by storm with songs like ‘I Feel Bad’ and ‘No rules’. Pure Hell was often spotted in the punk uniform: leather, denim, metal spikes or studs, chains and military-style boots. Kenny ‘Stinker’ Gordon, frontman for Pure Hell said in an interview with Decibel Magazine: “Punk rock was a movement, breaking the remaining restraints of the convention after the love and peace thing of the 60s. We were ahead of our time, and
most people around us wanted to come along for the ride.” Stinker added: “At our peak, we were one of those bands that thrived on blistering an audience.” Pure Hell’s success was met by several record labels who insisted they change their music to align with racial stereotypes. However, their refusal to comply with the industry’s limitations meant they sacrificed career opportunities. As the decades passed and history books were written, Pure Hell’s memory fades to legend. The Music Industry Today There has been an increase in critically acclaimed alternative musicians of colour in recent years. Black artists and pioneers who’d long been oppressed and overlooked began speaking out. We have reached an era where ‘punk’ no longer means white. As surface-level conversations around industry-wide sexism and misogyny began to fester, people began to notice the glaring absence of BIPOC and queer artists in Punk Rock. BIPOC musicians have fought hard to get their fair share of recognition within the industry. South London based singer,
ARTS AND CULTURE songwriter, producer and multimedia industrialist TobiMary said: “I think my style has always come about from what music I listened to and seeing a bunch of magazines photoshoots from some of my favourite artists, some of which include Rico Nasty, Bree runway, Charli XCX, Beyoncé, Janet Jackson, Melanie Martinez, Solange to name a few. “I think it’s always important to dress how you want, it all contributes to loving yourself. “At university, I found my style, I began buying things that I liked and dressed for myself and not for other people. I first started exploring piercings, I got all the ones I’ve always wanted. Then my hair, I dyed my hair blue,
green, red, grey, blonde. I think I might be going pink next time. I think the reason why I can’t put down my eyeliner is probably because of Amy Winehouse.” Pop-punk and heavy guitar music have thrived during the pandemic, with artists such as Pinkshift, Mint Green and Toro y Moi gaining mass support. Nearly two years after Covid-19 These musicians have ripped up the rulebooks and bold and daring looks. It’s no secret that fashion from the 70s is back. Current trends show leather, fishnet stockings and studded belt are back in season. G;arden a 19-year-old musician from London said: “I feel like fashion is too fluid to stick
to one type of style, yet I would say grunge is more of my main everyday style. I found my style through music and my sister. I was always into more grunge bands and grunge Tumblr culture. I love all styles and I still like to experiment with different sections of alternative fashion, inspired by Japanese street fashion and cyberpunk fashion through movies like the matrix etc. “Listening to a lot of alt-rock like arctic monkeys, 1975 and even emo bands like sleeping with sirens, Paramore when I was younger have all inspired my love for grunge clothing and alternative fashion; I feel like all the people who used to listen to these bands intensely definitely
began to indulge in some sort of alternative fashion.” “I mostly focus on clothing than makeup, but layering items of clothing, having a colour coordinated outfit, using jewellery to emphasise the look is what I tend to express myself with. Denim right now for some reason is something I’m really into, I love grunge, stonewashed darker denim.” “My style tends to change depending on my mood and what I’ve been surrounding myself with, for example, if I’ve been researching a lot about counter-culture and listening to Fleetwood Mac then I sometimes start wearing more 60s 70s style clothing.”
FASHION AND MUSIC HAVE BEEN INTERTWINED THROUGHOUT THE AGES
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Heart Of Alt-Fashion
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