January 2011
Conducting business throughout southern Africa
International Jewellery Calendar: Make a date for 2011 Durability, care and cleaning of gems Top timepieces choose platinum
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CONTENTS Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: sajewellerynews@isikhova.co.za Watch Editor: Alice Weil Tel: +27 (0)11 880-1680 Cell: 083-266-9182 E-mail: aweil@mweb.co.za Advertising Sales Executive: Nicholas Carlson Cell: 076-183-9574 E-mail: nicholasc@isikhova.co.za Advertising Sales: Stacey Oertel Cell: 082-691-0759 E-mail: adsales@isikhova.co.za Overseas Sales Office (India): Bhupal Potdar Mediascope Publicitas India Pvt Ltd E-mail: bhupal.potdar@publicitas.com Designer: Joanne Brook Copy Editor: Anne Phillips
5. NEWS • 2011 edition of Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair this month • IIJS Signature now in Mumbai • Rand Refinery announces signing of new refining agreements • Oprah gives away diamond earrings and watch on fans' favourite show • India’s escalating diamond industry discussed at China Diamond Conference • IDMA Treasurer discusses reshaping and challenges of diamond industry
12. INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY CALENDAR
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Make a date for 2011
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Durability, care and cleaning of gems
SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC, PO Box 651793, Benmore, 2010, Johannesburg, South Africa. 27 Panners Lane, Riverclub, Sandton, South Africa.
17. USEFUL INFORMATION
Website: www.isikhova.co.za Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Meyer E-mail: andrewm@isikhova.co.za Chief Financial Officer: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Printing: Colors Banking Details: Isikhova Publishing & Communications CC Bank: Standard Bank, Sandton, South Africa Branch Code: 01-92-05 Current Account Number: 4209 6822 9
14. GEMSTONES
Gold: everything you need to know
18. BRAND MANAGEMENT • Multi-faceted artist designs timepiece • Top timepieces choose platinum • Shimansky introduces new diamond cut • Railroad nostalgia from Hamilton • Buben&Zorweg showcases exclusive range in New York • Damiani bracelet wins award • The elegance of Maurice Lacroix • Jacob & Co goes colourful • Seiko wins prestigious award • Perrelet remains true to its heritage
32. LITTLE GEMS Making a material difference Official Journal of the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa. Website: www.jewellery.org.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners and the Diamond and Jewellery Federation of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2010. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2011
On the cover Au Traders & Refiners provides full refining services, smelting and assaying solutions, including analytical and laboratory work. It refines any scrap materials as well as doré bars and jewellers’ waste, dental waste, computer waste, catalytic converters and gold concentrate. Products include carated alloys, pre-alloys and solders. Alloys can be custom-made. For further information, contact Au Traders & Refiners on tel: (011) 334-7607/8.
5
NEWS
Rand Refinery announces signing of new refining agreements In line with its commitment to increase its “footprint” on the African continent, at the end of last year Rand Refinery Limited (RRL) concluded negotiations with Perth-based Adamus Resources Ltd and was awarded the contract to refine production from the company’s Nzema Gold Operations in Ghana. RRL also concluded a refining agreement with the Côte d'Ivoirian gold-producing mine, Tongon, a Randgold Resources operation. Adamus’ Nzema operation is a greenfields project with an average yearly production of 100 000 oz and a minimum life of mine of 10 years. With production expected to commence in the first quarter of this year, Adamus will join the league of mining companies which have made Ghana the second-largest gold producer on the continent after South Africa. RRL already refines
a large percentage of this country’s production. According to CEO Mark Connelly, Adamus Resources is an emerging gold mining company which plans to become a significant contributor to the mining industry. “We are excited about the potential of the Nzema Gold Project and expect to see significant additional resources through current exploration programmes. As we evolve from developer to producer we look forward to building a successful, long-term relationship with Rand Refinery,” Connelly asserted. “Tongon poured its first bar of gold on 9 November 2010. The mine was brought into production on schedule in the face of significant challenges,” Mark Bristow, chief executive of Randgold Resources, commented. RRL, the largest single-site gold refinery and smelter complex in the world, located in
IDMA Treasurer discusses reshaping and challenges of diamond industry Stephane Fischler, Treasurer of the International Diamond Manufacturers Association (IDMA), the representative body of the world’s diamond manufacturers, addressed the China Diamond Conference held in Shanghai at the
end of last year on the need for long-term competitiveness to ensure the viability of the global diamond manufacturing industry. Fischler discussed the geopolitical shifts and financial dynamics the industry has expe-
South Africa, was established in 1920. Since its inception it has refined in excess of 40 000 tonnes of gold. This represents some 30% of all the gold mined in the world since antiquity. RRL has as its shareholders some of the largest goldproducing companies in South Africa including Anglogold Ashanti, the world’s fourth-largest producer, which owns 53% and Gold Fields which owns 33%. Following the signing of the above agreements, Howard Craig, managing director of RRL, said: “RRL is extremely excited to have been chosen by the gold-producing mines to offer its refining, marketing and sales services. This is a further indication of the trust in the integrity and reputation of the RRL brand and serves to reinforce RRL’s commitment to doing business in the West African sub-region.” rienced and, in particular, the development of new consumer markets in India and China. He addressed issues such as the effect the proportional increase of the ageing population has on both the traditional and newer consumer markets, the need to support and raise awareness among industry members about consumer confidence issues and sticking to best business principles.
IIJS Signature now in Mumbai After being held in Goa for several years, the India International Jewellery Show (IIJS) Signature will shift to Mumbai from this year. From 7-10 January 2011 the NSE Grounds, Goregaon East will host the fourth IIJS Signature. The event has been conceptualised to represent and showcase the best that India has to offer in design, craftsmanship and quality. Show organisers expect over 15 000 trade visitors and more than 400 exhibitors. While the new IIJS Signature 2011 offers the same style as the previous Goa shows,
the Mumbai edition will welcome a number of new features. Attractions include the Signature Club and an International Pavilion for leading overseas manufacturers of loose stones and precious jewellery. According to Rajiv Jain, chairman of the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council of India (GJEPC) which organises the event, the IIJS, IIJS Signature and IIJW jewellery shows have provided a platform for the industry to grow and collectively raise the bar in terms of quality, design and business practices. “The shift of IIJS Signature to Mumbai provides a larger venue and enables many new jewellery manufacturers to participate in our shows. It is one more collaborative effort to establish India’s stature at the forefront of the gems and jewellery world and will surely take us closer to this goal,” says Jain.
2011 edition of Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair this month The second edition of the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair will take place from 30 January – 1 February 2011. Following the success of the first fair, which premièred this year in the 105-year-old Antwerp Diamond Bourse (Beurs voor Diamanthandel), the 2011 edition will expand to the adjacent trading hall of the Diamond Club of Antwerp, thus growing the exhibitors base from 40 to 60, allowing more Antwerp-based firms to participate in the show.
Jean Patrick Smal, principal of the event and communications firm Punch which co-ordinates the fair on behalf of the city's two leading diamond bourses said the concept of the fair had proved itself highly successful. “Once again, we are inviting high-end European jewellery firms to attend this exclusive, byinvitation-only event and offer these preferred buyers the opportunity to connect with the exhibiting Antwerp diamond companies which can supply their specific requirements,” he said.
Co-operation between CIBJO and Politecnico leads to first academic CSR and eco-friendly jewellery education programme in Europe The Department of Industrial Design, Arts, Communication and Fashion (INDACO) at the Politecnico University of Milan, Italy, will offer its first course in Corporate Social Responsibility and the design of eco-friendly jewellery in March. The course is the result of close co-operation between Politecnico University and CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, and was developed under the auspices of the World Jewellery Confederation Education Foundation (WJCEF). The INDACO/WJCEF programme of courses will be offered in English to jewellery design
students from around the world, with each course including about 30 students. CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri says he already has a group of 20 students signed up for the course. “While this course is part of the annual curriculum of Politecnico INDACO, it is also open to the international jewellery business community. During a single week, participants will be immersed in the subject matter and come away with a wealth of knowledge and tools that will be instrumental in making CSR an integral part of their businesses’ policies,” Cavalieri says.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – january 2011
NEWS
High court rejects Tiffany appeal in eBay case The US Supreme Court has rejected an appeal by Tiffany & Co in its case against online auction website eBay Inc. In this latest appeal in the case, Tiffany reiterated its argument that eBay should be held liable for trademark infringement related to the sale of counterfeit merchandise on its website. The Supreme Court announced its decision to reject the appeal at the end of last year. EBay associate general counsel Michelle Fang says the Supreme Court’s denial is a “great victory” for eBay and US consumers. ”We believe this case has always been about Tiffany’s efforts to prevent people from buying and selling authentic Tiffany products online, and the culmination of this case validates eBay’s business practices,” she says. “The
decision lets stand the prior rulings of both the Second Circuit Court of Appeals and the trial court, which found that eBay exceeds all legal requirements in the fight against counterfeits.” Tiffany did not respond to a request for comment on the ruling. New York-based Tiffany first filed suit against eBay in 2004 in the US District Court for the Southern District of New York alleging the San Jose, California-based company was guilty of trademark infringement, unfair competition, false advertising and trademark dilution. The allegations arose after Tiffany conducted its own investigation of “Tiffany” pieces sold on eBay in 2004 and 2005 and discovered that a great percentage of them were counterfeits. In July 2008, the district court ruled in eBay’s
International Gem Tower team reports upbeat business climate in India, China Team members of the International Gem Tower (IGT) sales team travelled to Asia in the past few months and reported they found an “improved business sentiment” in India and China.
Joe Lipton, a partner in IGT, says that in Hong Kong candidate buyers were eager to reengage in negotiations, picking up where they had left off earlier.
favour on all claims, but Tiffany appealed that ruling. In April, the US Second Circuit Court of Appeals in New York upheld the lower court’s ruling that eBay is not responsible for trademark violations in the case, but asked the district court to reconsider Tiffany’s false advertising claims. The district court again ruled in eBay’s favour, throwing out Tiffany’s false advertising claim. – National Jeweler In India, IGT met with buyers who had recently purchased space in IGT, such as the Heera Moti, Fair Growth International and SKC Jewelry companies. “The announcement of tax benefits for jewellery manufacturing companies has particularly caught the interest of Indian firms,” says Razy Haas, senior vicepresident of Extell Development, IGT developers.
STRAP
(Above): The Diamond Dealers Club of South Africa had its annual end-of-year breakfast at Tasha’s in Melrose Arch, Johannesburg. From left: Lionel Noach, Sarel Snyman, Jan Nortje, Mike Ellis, Mark Reichman, Trevor Temkin, Mosheen Valli Moosa and David Woolf.
India’s escalating diamond industry discussed at China Diamond Conference Vasant Mehta, ex-chairman of the Gem and Jewellery Promotion Council (GJEPC) in India, discussed the different facets of the Indian diamond industry during the China Diamond Conference held at the end of last year in Shanghai. Mehta presented insights on the burgeoning of the Indian diamond industry and how the country has attained a leadership position in the global market. He spoke about India’s technological capabilities and efficiency of labour, as well as government aid which has helped India establish itself as a global jewellery hub. “As the world moves into a new era post the crisis, there are many aspects that have changed fundamentally. Key to this is the shift in focus. While the USA still remains a large diamond jewellery consuming centre, there can be no doubt that India and China are the centres of the future for the diamond industry on all fronts. There are those who will keep on monitoring the developments in both these countries closely, as if the two are in a race. However, I believe that there is space for both. There are many Indian companies which are already developing ties, co-operation and relationships with China on many fronts. Taken together, the two eastern giants are a formidable force, in every way, whether in sheer numbers of population, of skills, as developing economies or as markets. I look forward to the unfolding of the future in which our two great nations will take centre stage,” Mehta said.
GIA 2011 Education Catalogue now available The Gemological Institute of America’s (GIA) 2011 Education Catalogue is now available. The new printed and online catalogue, entitled Reach Across the World, emphasises the global scope of the industry and the institute’s worldwide education programmes and credentials. The catalogue features in-depth descriptions of the institute’s interactive online gemmology curriculum, hands-on lab classes and full-time on-campus programmes and provides insight into domestic and international schedules for gemmology, design and jewellery manufacturing. It also includes a guide to GIA eLearning, a media-rich learning experience delivered completely online via integrated text, videos, slide shows, animations and audio. For further information or to request a copy, e-mail: admissions@gia.edu.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – january 2011
NEWS
(Above): The Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) held its annual Chairman’s Fund end-of-year dinner at The Meat Company in Melrose Arch, Johannesburg.
Oprah gives away Diamond Dealers Club of New York diamond earrings president emphasises consumer and watch on fans' confidence at China Conference favourite show Diamond jewellery was among 44 items talk show host Oprah Winfrey gave away to 275 eager studio audience members in her popular Oprah’s Ultimate Favourite Things 2010 episode instalments. The series, in which Winfrey gives her guests goodies including flat-screen televisions, designer bags, shoes, clothes and even exotic vacations, always elicits blood-curdling screams of joy and intense facial expressions to the extent that paramedics need to stand by in case anyone collapses from excitement. During the first part of this “fans' favourite show”, which aired at the end of last year, Winfrey doled out thousands of dollars worth of products including a Philip Stein diamond watch studded with no fewer than 58 diamonds worth nearly US$2 500. “I love this watch because it’s great for going out of town,” Winfrey told the audience. During the second part of the show, the audience received “a little sparkle”, according to the host, with Jessica Leigh Diamond Earrings by Dana Rebecca Designs containing 1,17 carats of diamonds, or 100 diamonds set in 14ct white, rose or yellow gold valued at US$1 900. Other jewellery that made the list included US$525 Judith Ripka Eclipse earrings made with canary crystal stones and white sapphire accents set in sterling. “She’s one of my favourite jewellers,” Winfrey said. Over the years, Winfrey has been known to wear a lot of Ripka’s pieces. Although jewellery was prominent in the giveaway, Winfrey’s “ultimate” favourite thing was Apple’s iPad. As for the audience, they were totally stunned to hear that they would be receiving the yet-to-be revealed brand-new, redesigned 2012 Volkswagen Beetle when it makes its debut this year. – Rapaport
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In many respects, the development of the diamond market in China can be compared most closely with the earlier development of the diamond market in the USA, and as such the role of the Shanghai diamond centre most closely parallels that of New York, said Moshe Mosbacher, president of the Diamond Dealers Club, in his address at the China Diamond Conference held late last year in Shanghai. ”I believe that, in many respects, the business models that have been developed in my city and my country over the past several decades are particularly applicable to Shanghai and the People's Republic of China,” Mosbacher said. As New York has in the USA, Shanghai today serves as the financial nerve centre of its national economy, the DDC president said. “And like the Diamond Dealers Club of New York in the USA, the Shanghai Diamond Exchange was the first diamond bourse to be established in Mainland China, and it functions today as the official point of entry to this country’s diamond market.” What traditionally has characterised New York in comparison with other major diamond centres, and soon will characterise Shanghai, Mosbacher said, is the need to focus almost exclusively on its domestic market. “What set the US economy apart from others throughout most of the past century is the fact that its life blood is its own consumer market. To this very day more than two-thirds of the US GDP is represented by American consumer spending. ”China’s political leadership has declared its intention of raising the relative level of consumer spending so that it becomes a more critical source of growth in the Chinese economy. McKinsey’s research suggests that Chinese consumer consumption as a share
of GDP will only approach the 40% mark by 2025, but that alone will result in a middle class in China that is approximately double the size of the one in the USA today,” the DDC president stated. ”The bottom line for a diamond centre like Shanghai, therefore, is similar to the one that we are reminded of daily in New York – it is all about the local consumer and local consumer confidence,” Mosbacher said. The role of the diamond exchange in defending consumer confidence is critical, he stated. “For members of the jewellery trade, buying from a diamond exchange defends against reputational risk in the same way that the Kimberley Process prevents the trade in conflict diamonds. The Kimberley Process works by ensuring that the diamonds handled in the market are only obtained from verified sources. In other words, KP provides a gate-keeping service. The same applies to the diamond exchange. When you buy from a club member, you know who you are dealing with. This is true in any type of market, but it is particularly relevant in consumer-driven markets like the USA and now China.” In his speech, Mosbacher revealed that the Diamond Dealers Club is currently putting the final touches to what will become the first fully functional trading floor operated by an established diamond exchange. “There are other online diamond trading sites, but not a single one that operates under the auspices of an official diamond bourse. What this means is that while the technology is being upgraded, the essential value provided by the club within our consumer market is maintained in full.” The DDC’s online trading floor is due to be launched early this year.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – january 2011
The DIA has 20 years experience in Diamond Grading and grades to International standards so having your stones graded by us means you can buy and sell with confidence. We can advise you through the polishing process of your stones enabling you to get the best results or advise you as to whether your stones can be improved. The DIA tests each and every stone on the Diamond Sure machine which means you can buy and sell our Certificate with confidence. Having your Diamonds graded serves as a valuable reference if your stone is lost, damaged or stolen. EST 1996
So why not come and try our FAST, FRIENDLY and EFFICIENT service today.
Suite 429, S.A. Diamond Centre, Cnr Main & Phillip Street, Johannesburg, South Africa, 2001 • Tel: +27 11 334-5911 • Fax: +27 11 334-5911
International Jewellery Calendar
Make a date for 2011 January
7-10 15-20 26-29
May India International Jewellery Show (IIJS) Signature, Mumbai www.iijs-signature.org Vicenzaoro First, Italy www.vicenzafiera.it International Jewellery Tokyo, Japan www.ijt.jp
February
3-7 6-10 25-28 25-1 26-1
International Gift, Jewellery and Fashion Jewellery Week, Madrid www.ifema.es/web/ferias/sir/default.html Spring Fair International, Birmingham, England www.springfair.com Inhorgenta Europe, Germany www.inhorgenta.com March Bangkok Gems & Jewellery Fair, Thailand www.bangkokgemsfair.com China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair, Shenzhen www.jewellerynetasia.com
4-8 17-21 24-31 25-28
Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, China www.hkjewellery.com Istanbul Jewellery Show, Turkey www.jewellerynetasia.com Baselworld, Switzerland www.baselworld.com Malaysia International Jewellery Fair, Malaysia www.elite.com.my
April
14-17
Jewel Fair Korea, Korea www.jewelfair.com
21-25
Vicenzaoro Charm, Italy www.vicenzafiera.it
June
3-6 17-20 23-26
JCK Las Vegas, USA www.jcklasvegasshow.com China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair, Guangzhou www.jewellerynetasia.com Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, China www.jewellerynetasia.com
July
5-6 23-25
Jovella Israel, Israel www.stier.co.il Jewellex Africa, South Africa
August
March
28-30
International Jewellery Fair, Sydney, Australia www.internationaljewelleryfair.com.au
September
4-7 7-11 9-13 17-21 19-25
International Jewellery London, England www.jewellerylondon.com HKTDC Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair, China www.hktdc.com Vicenzaoro Choice, Italy www.vicenzafiera.it Junwex Moscow, Russia www.restec.ru Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, China www.jewellerynetasia.com
Gemstones
Durability, care and clean Although most coloured gems are quite durable, some require special care. Explaining how to care for their jewellery will make your clients aware of the uniqueness of their gems and add to your professionalism. More importantly, though, knowledge about the durability of gems in the workplace is essential for the jeweller as it will prevent serious losses, unhappy clients and even lawsuits. 1. Durability Durability consists of three qualities: hardness, toughness and stability. a. Hardness This property is the gem’s resistance to scratching. As diamond can scratch all natural gems, it is considered the hardest. In 1822, Professor Friedrich Mohs gave diamond a hardness of 10 on a scale that he developed to indicate the relative hardness of minerals. Topaz (hardness 8) can scratch any mineral ranked the same or lower. The Mohs scale is not linear as diamond is, in fact, 140 times harder than corundum and about 124 000
times harder than talc. The jeweller must understand the Mohs scale, but should not quote numbers to the client. Rather explain to him that a ruby ring and peridot earrings do not belong in the same box, as the latter are bound to be scratched by the ruby. In the workplace, there are many things with a hardness of 7 that will scratch most gems you may work with. b. Toughness Exceptional hardness does not mean exceptional toughness. Explain this to your customer by using a leather shoe as an example. A leather shoe is soft, as it can be scratched easily, but is very tough as it can stand up to a lot of wear. On the other hand, a porcelain plate is very hard, but chips or shatters easily. Although there is no scale for toughness, the groupings below indicate the relative toughness of gemstones. Some gems appear under more than one rating as they can show different degrees of toughness due to the presence of inclusions, cleavages and fractures. c. Stability Stability indicates how sensitive a gem is to light, heat and chemicals. i) Light Kunzite and amethyst will fade if exposed to sunlight for long periods. So will brown topaz and pink shell cameos. The dye in gems like dyed lapis lazuli and turquoise will also fade with time. ii) Heat A jeweller’s torch can fade the colour of aquamarine, topaz, jadeite, lapis lazuli, tourmaline, turquoise and zircon. Gems with liquid-filled inclusions can shatter, fracture-filled emeralds can be damaged and oil may leak from an emerald under the torch. Heat can remove the moisture from pearls and opals, which is needed to retain their beau-
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ty. Prolonged storage of these gems in a dry cabinet will make them lose moisture, too. Always keep a small vessel filled with water inside a pearl showcase. Organic gems like pearls, shell, ivory and amber are easily damaged by heat. iii) Chemicals Lotions, perfumes, cosmetics, hairspray and household cleaning products (especially ammonia) or acids can easily damage soft organic gems. Non-organic gems are not as easily affected. It is, however, wise to remove all jewellery before swimming or when using solvents and cleaners. Chlorinated water (in swimming pools) will attack gold jewellery, pearls and other organic gems. 2. Handling gems Anyone handling gems should know how to use tweezers. All gems will attract grease from fingers and lose their sparkle when handled by hand. Place a gem on the back of a client’s hand, in the space between the middle and ring finger, and see how they appreciate the sparkle. Always keep a soft cloth handy and wipe items clean before returning them to the showcases. Never show gems or jewellery on a bare table or glass cabinet; always use a soft cloth pad. Handle all precious items with care and respect. If you don’t, how can you expect your client to believe it is valuable? 3. Cleaning gems Jewellers normally use an ultrasonic cleaner that sends high-frequency sound waves through a warm, soapy solution in which the item is suspended. This removes grime and grease from jewellery, but may shake stones loose from their mountings. Ultrasonic cleaning may also damage gems with poor toughness and those such as emeralds, that may be oiled or fractured-filled. If you are not sure whether a gem has been treated, assume it is and do not use the ultrasonic or steam cleaner. Rather clean it with warm water, detergent-free soap
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – january 2011
Gemstones
ning of gems and a soft toothbrush. Use a lint-free cloth. Cover your sink’s drain with a fine metallic sieve (that will be able to collect 0,01ct stones) and lay a rubber mat down which will prevent chipping if a gem is dropped. Do not use a toothbrush on pearls and other soft gems – they will scratch. Rather use a clean cloth dipped in warm, soapy water. 4. Take-in procedures When taking in gems or jewellery for valuation or repair, it is essential that you inspect the item under magnification and that you issue a receipt. Inform the owner immediately if the gems are loose, chipped, scratched or even missing. Inspect the claws and, if they are heavily worn or broken, inform the client. Never assume that the gem is a ruby, or whatever the client insists it is. Always use a proper printed receipt book and write as follows: “A yellow metal ring with a red stone.” If your client insists that the gem is a “natural ruby”, you can write: “Customer states red stone is a natural ruby.”
Believe it or not – gem tales to tell A jeweller should know a few interesting stories about gems and jewellery. The history and lore of gemstones lend an extra dimension to their value which customers normally find interesting. • Lapis lazuli was the secret ingredient that made the blue paint of Leonardo da Vinci so vibrant and lasting. However, lapis lazuli was extremely expensive at the time and most painters used crushed azurite (a blue copper mineral) as pigment. Many years later, the copper in the azurite-based paints had
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – january 2011
oxidised. This changed the blue skies in many Renaissance paintings into a dull green. • Electricity gets its name from the ancient Greek word for amber, called “electron”. This is so because electricity was first discovered when 6th century Greek philosopher Thales rubbed pieces of silk with amber. This friction caused amber to become electrified. • The largest piece of jade was discovered in 1978 when Chinese miners unearthed a piece of lustrous green jade with vermilion, blue and cream highlights. It weighed 160 tons. • When you swim in the ocean, your body is surrounded by thousands of minute flakes of pure gold. Experts estimate that one cubic kilometre of sea water contains 25 tons of gold. The problem is, no-one has yet found a way to extract the precious metal. • The earliest records of precious gems are found in the Bible. Jeremiah wrote: “The sin of Judah is written upon the table of your hearts and upon the horns of your altar with a pen of iron and with the point of a diamond.” • According to the scriptures, Abraham wore a precious stone with the power of healing around his neck. He also gave the children of Hagar huge pearls that were described as “having a lustre more brilliant than the light of the sun”. • The well-known phrase: “A woman of
valour who can find? For her price is far above rubies” appears in Proverbs. • The Queen of Sheba presented King Solomon with “a hundred and twenty talents of gold and spices of very great store and precious gems”. • In order to keep King Solomon under her spell, the daughter of the King of Egypt overhung their bed with a tapestry into which diamonds and pearls were woven to simulate the sparkling stars of the night sky. When Solomon woke, he saw the “stars” above, believed it was still night and went on sleeping. • When Napoleon married Josephine, he bought a 34ct diamond, known as the Napoleon Diamond, which he embedded in the hilt of his sword. This he frequently wore for good luck into battle. It is believed that he lost it at Waterloo, as it was never seen again after the battle. • A ton of rock from the average South African gold mine will yield about 14 grams of pure gold. • Tycho Brahe, the famous Danish astronomer, wore a false nose made of solid gold to compensate for the one he had lost. When the Duke of Saxony broke into Emperor Charlemagne’s tomb, he found the embalmed corpse with a disintegrated nose seated on a throne. He had a gold nose made which was fitted on the corpse. • When Crown Prince Humbert of Italy got married, he promised his wife a new string of pearls for each year of their married life. Her pearl necklace eventually had a total length of more than 200 metres. • Ali Pasher, ruler of Albania, owned the 40ct Pigott diamond which he considered to be the most beautiful of all his treasures. He kept the gem at all times in a pouch tucked in his sash. When he was wounded in battle in 1822 and lay dying in his throne room, he ordered that his two most precious possessions be destroyed – the Pigott and his wife, Vasilikee. The diamond was crushed before his eyes. Fortunately, he died before he could insist on the murder of his wife. – Reprinted with permission from Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook
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CUT, LAMINATE & KEEP
Useful Information
Gold: everything you need to know
Gold occurs primarily as free gold in quartz veins associated with granite intrusions. Weathering of the gold-bearing rock releases gold flakes and grains which, because of their weight, settle in river beds where they are concentrated in “placer” deposits. These grains sometimes accumulate and are rolled into lumps called nuggets. The gold deposits of the Witwatersrand consist of reefs of a pebbly conglomerate (called blanket) in which the gold grains are normally not visible to the naked eye. These reefs are considered by some to be ancient placer deposits.
Gold alloy compositions (Numbers indicate percentage of metal in alloy) 24ct
Yellow (fine gold)
Au100
22ct
Yellow
Au91,67/Ag5/Cu2/Zn1,33
Yellow
Au91,67/Ag5/Cu2/Zn1,33
Red
Au75/Cu25
Pink
Au75/Ag5/Cu20
Green
Au75/Ag15/Cu6/Cd4
Purple
Au80/A120
White (handwork)
Au75/Ag5/Pd20
chemical symbol: Au 79
White (casting)
Au75/Cu3,5/Ni15,5/Zn6
Specific gravity = 19,32
Blue white
Au75/Fe25
Yellow
Au54,33/Ag4/Cu31,2/Zn4,17
White (casting)
Au58,33/Cu22,1/Zn8,77/Ni10,8
Yellow
Au37,5/Cu46,58/Ag12,42/Zn3,5
White
Au37,5 + various amounts of Ni, Ag and/or Zn
18ct Working of gold Atomic number and
Melting point (fine) = 1 063˚C
14ct
Boiling point = 2 970˚C Casting temperature = 1 100-1 300˚C
Gold unit weights Fine (pure) gold 24ct = ,9999 fineness Standard gold bar = Approximately 400 ounces or 12,5 kg with a minimum of ,995 fine gold Troy ounce = A unit of measure equivalent to 31,1034 grams of fine gold Tola = Traditional Indian unit of weight = 11,6638 grams of fine gold Tael = Traditional Chinese unit of weight = 367,429 grams of ,990 fine gold
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2011
9ct
Please note: There are many other gold alloy compositions that are produced for specific applications. What is the London Fixed gold price? Every business day, five London gold dealers compile all the buy and sell orders they have received and match them up. They then agree upon a price at which they will trade gold and make it public. This is called The London Fix, which is set twice daily, at 10h30 and at 15h00 London time. It is a price for 2 000 ounces of ,995 gold, with no delivery required, and is used by most gold traders worldwide.
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BRAND MANAGEMENT
Railroad nostalgia from Hamilton A rare piece Among the Swiss releases for Christmas last year was the MB&F Horological Machine No 4 Thunderbolt, which is a piece of kinetic art. This device breaks with traditional watchmaking, presenting a three-dimensional, totally unfettered appearance in which the case and movement have been united. It is a result of a child’s imagination and one Maximillien Busser and is the fourth model of this collection. In the most audacious form yet conceived in the world of timekeeping, it is designed with the requirements of an engine in mind. It has 311 made-to-measure components, with sleek aerodynamic lines, its body of titanium and sapphire which conceals two parallel barrels that transfer their power to two identical turbine-shaped pods that display its functions. The cockpit in the centre reveals the balance, open-worked in the middle to display most of the oscillating weight, a micro-mechanical panorama with sophisticated finishing. The movement is hand-wound with 50 jewels, 21 600 vib/m and a 72-hour power reserve. The right dial indicates hours and minutes with Superluminova-enhanced hands, while the left dial indicates power reserve and is a battle-axe-shaped skeleton hand. Functions include hours, minutes and power reserve. The bracelet is of black handsewn calfskin with titanium and 18ct white gold folding clasp.
American watch brand, Hamilton, has a history dating back to the 19th century when, with the formation of the Hamilton Watch Company, it fulfilled the need for accurate timepieces to serve personnel of railway companies. Until then the only means of transport available for those wanting to “go west” was the covered wagon. But the birth and development of the railway system changed all that. It revolutionised travel and ultimately became the source of wealth for many of the entrepreneurs who built the great American fortunes. And so, from these requirements for accurate timekeeping, as one of the originators of the railroad watch, the Hamilton brand grew. It was the first of the accurate “railroad watches”. Today it is a sophisticated industry, but nostalgia for the past is a motivating factor in the design of a new range of watches. A skilful reinterpretation of a pocket watch from this former era is a new design available in three sizes and a choice of four metals. It is a combination of past, present and future, in 38, 44 and 46 mm case of stainless steel, black-treated PVD on steel or for the
46 mm model pink gold, with matching appliqué hour markers on a black, silvered or pink gold dial. It is extremely accurate and fits comfortably on the wrist. This chronograph is powered by an automatic Valgranges AO7211 movement. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph with tachometer and it is water-resistant to 100 m. Twelve hour and 30-minute counters are at 6 and 12 o’clock respectively, while the date window has a magnifying glass and is at 3 o’clock. This timepiece is mounted on a black or brown leather strap or steel bracelet, each with a matching folding clasp. (Above and top): Hamilton’s nostalgic Railroad watch.
Damiani bracelet wins award Damiani’s Isotta bracelet was awarded the winner in the category Best Fashionable Jewellery during the annual Middle East Premier Watches, Jewellery and Pens Awards in Bahrain instituted by Arabian Watches & Jewellery magazine. Isotta incorporates diamonds, gradually col-
oured sapphires, oval cabochon-cut chalcedony and “Stone Moon” mounted on white gold. The Middle East Premier Awards results are determined by a public online vote and an independent committee constituted by watch, jewellery and pen collectors.
The elegance of Maurice Lacroix Elegant and refined is this ladies' model from Maurice Lacroix in a 33 mm diameter stainless steel case set with 62 TW VVS diamonds on the bezel, Les Classiques Date. Each time indicator is reduced to a single expression. The automatic quartz movement which has a 38-hour power reserve has hours, minutes, seconds and date functions. Dial is white mother-of-pearl with
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – january 2011
diamond-polished silver hour markers, as well as hour and minute hands which are enhanced by Superluminova. The date window is at 6 o’clock. The convex glass is sapphire crystal and the watch, water-resistant to 30 m, is mounted on a white imitation crocodile strap. (Right): An elegant ladies' model from Maurice Lacroix.
21
BRAND MANAGEMENT
Multi-faceted artist designs timepiece A sleek, exclusive design has been created for French brand, Saint Honore, by multi-faceted artist, CharlElie, who is a friend of the brand’s chairman, Thierry Fresard. This timepiece has been produced in a limited edition, to mark its 125th anniversary. Saint Honore is one of the oldest watchmakers in France. CharlElie is a writer, composer, musician, performer and photographer who in 2004 painted a canvas for the opening of the Saint Honore store in Paris. Entitled On the Passing of Time, the artwork is displayed permanently instore. He was subsequently asked by Fresard to design a watch for this auspicious anniversary. “Both of us are in the creative sphere,” Fresard said, to which comment CharlElie is reputed to have replied: “Artist and artisan have the same roots; ‘art’ as a word stands for know-how.” And indeed, the timepiece created by the prolific artist is a work of art. It is contemporary, sophisticated and refined – a meditation which portrays time in two ways: linear time with the straight white line that
never ends which inspired the watch’s name, The Line, and also cyclical time, the eternal new beginning represented by the circle on the dial. The multi-faceted artist took his inspiration for The Line from the streets of New York, where he has lived since 2004. “I wanted the concept of time to be revealed in a path, something that evokes movement – the movement of people,” he says, “and also the way of the organised system. In a way, the white line chose itself.” The result is an aesthetic timepiece which will appeal to collectors and connoisseurs. The automatic ETA movement which has a pearly finish and diamanté snailed decoration, can be viewed through the curved clear glass on the case-back. The oscillating wheel has Côte de Geneve decoration, the weight engraved with the brand’s name and logo. Beautiful use is made of lacquer. The Line crossing the painted dial signed by the artist is in white lacquer, contrasting with the dial itself, which is painted in black lacquer. The square, curved case is steel with black PVD finish, while
the crown is engraved with the SH logo picked out in orange lacquer. The case is mounted on a sophisticated black crocodile strap which fastens with a pin buckle. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds and date at 7 o’clock. The watch is waterresistant to 50 metres – and, appropriately, it is limited to 125 pieces.
(Above): Artist CharlElie with Thierry Fresard.
Perrelet remains true to its heritage Watch brand Perrelet has unveiled its latest creation, the iconic model Turbine XL. This, the brand claims, is the result of its passion and enthusiasm and its belief that the movement is the heart of a watch and therefore its priority. The house patented its exclusive module, the Double Rotor, in 1995. This calibre has automatic winding and enables one to observe the two rotors, one on the dial side and the other on the movement side. On the base of the latter, Perrelet created its emblematic
model – the Turbine. The Turbine XL comes in a 50 mm diameter case. Its concave form and integration of its crown preserve the original inspiration derived from the aeronautical sector. Four grooves rise up the side of the middle case as if cupping the (diamond light coating) DCL-treated steel bezel. In order to ensure the optimum maintenance of the natural rubber bracelet, a central support has been added between the horns. The sapphire case-back and different
material combinations ensure the seamless continuity of the collection. Three executions are proposed: in DCL steel, titanium/DCL steel or the original combination of the 77-piece series in pink gold/DLC steel. The 12 blades of the turbine have been finely honed and trimmed at an angle. The watch offers three dial designs: a classical version in black and white as well as two coloured versions, one in orange and black and the other in green and black.
Seiko wins prestigious award Seiko has been decreed the Sports Watch of the Year for its Spring Drive Spacewalk Commemorative Edition at a ceremony in Geneva. This accolade was awarded to the brand at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve 2010. This is the most prestigious award yet given to Seiko’s unique Spring Drive technology and the brand is honoured to receive it. The watch has been described by the company’s top brass as “the only watch in the world designed from scratch to be worn during a spacewalk. It is a watch that brings mankind a step closer to the stars as its hands glide across the dial, plotting time with no ‘tick’ in perfect
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – january 2011
harmony with the eternal motion of the planets.” This is the second time that the brand has been honoured with this prize. In 2006 its first generation of the E-Link watch won the prize as the Electronic Watch of the Year. The Spring Drive Spacewalk Commemorative Edition, along with the winners in other categories, was displayed to the public at the Salon Belle Montres in Paris. (Right): Seiko’s award-winning Spring Drive Spacewalk Commemorative Edition watch which has been decreed Sports Watch of the Year.
23
BRAND MANAGEMENT
Top timepieces choose platinum A top-of-the-range, limited-edition collection of platinum timepieces showcases both the design and technical innovations by some of the most prestigious watch manufacturers. The qualities of platinum are assuredly the reason why the metal is chosen for presenting watchmakers’ rarest models, particularly when complications are involved. A new watch from Lange & Sohne, the Lange Daymatic, was inspired by an original launched 15 years ago, except that the new model is automatic rather than manually wound. The new version in a circular platinum case features a retrograde day of the week indicator. The dial has leaf hands and numerals are trapezium markers which show hours, minutes and seconds, as well as subsidiary seconds and a large patented date window, in addition to the retrograde day of the week indicator. A new series of Blacpain’s Villeret has an eight-day power reserve, with date window. The platinum case has a stepped bezel while a top model in this latest collection is automatic, displaying day, date, month and phases of the moon and has a considerable power reserve of 192 hours, almost equivalent to eight days. The Rotonde Grand Complication by Cartier is a limited edition of 30 pieces in a circular platinum case and case-back and is regulated by a tourbillon. It is mechanically wound. Cartier watches with major complications such as this model’s perpetual calendar and chronograph, used to measure long and short periods of time, are usually round. This impressive watch is regulated by the tourbillon in a movement with a power reserve of eight days.
(Above, from top): Cartier’s Rotonde Grande Complication in platinum is a limited-edition of 30 pieces; a contemporary 24-hour flyback chronograph with column wheel from Patek Philippe in platinum which can differentiate between 30 and 31 days on the annual calendar, Omega’s limited-edition of 18 numbered pieces with a mechanical automatic movement visible through the dial.
The distinctive features of IWC’s Portuguese are its classic dial and flying tourbillon with an indicator for a seven-day power reserve. First released in 2004, this year’s model from Schaffhausen is in platinum. A new addition is the retrograde analogue date indicator, which – when it reaches the end of the month – jumps back to the start. A limited-edition of 18 numbered pieces is a tourbillon in platinum from Omega – surely a collector’s piece, of which the hands engraved on sapphire crystal discs and skeleton movement are visible through the dial. With a mechanical automatic movement, this masterpiece of horology has a co-axial escapement and is an officially certified chronometer which has 320 components. The circular platinum case also has a platinum case-back . An attractive contemporary 24-hour flyback chronograph with column wheel from Patek Philippe has a platinum case. The annual calendar shows weeks and months and can differentiate between the months with 30 and 31 days, with manual adjustment limited only to February. The mechanical automatic movement has 450 components, 40 jewels and a 55-hour power reserve. An innovative design and movement from TAG-Heuer is this year’s Monaco V4 in a series limited to 150 pieces. This is in a platinum case and is the first time the brand has used the noble metal. The model which highlights their 150th anniversary has an automatic winding belt transmission for the gears; a tungsten linear weight mounted on ball bearings, four barrels and is in a square platinum case.
New diamond cut brought to market New on the South African diamond market and patented by Shimansky is an exceptionally Brilliant 10TM diamond which is claimed to be the most brilliant cut in the world. “No other diamond can match its brilliance,” says Yair Shimansky, who has sole rights to reproduce it. Its secret lies in the meticulous cut which gives the stone 25% more brilliance than the round diamond cut. Each facet is shaped in a precise and calculated technique to reveal a perfect arrow pattern when viewed from above and a perfect 10 hearts when seen from below through the Ideal Scope. The precise positioning of its 71 facets determines its unique brilliance and it is claimed
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – january 2011
to be a world first in the diamond industry. The essence of this patented cut is its ability to reflect the light that enters the diamond back through the table and crown. The patent for this has been in effect since 2005. The diamond has been tested by an international laboratory in Europe and also – recently – by a Brilliant Analysis machine at an international jewellery show, where it achieved the highest score ever recorded. Each stone is certified by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and laser-inscribed with an ID and the Brilliant 10TM trademark. Diamond cutters at Shimansky have used advanced technical skills to cut and polish
the Brilliant 10, resulting in a diamond of unparalleled symmetry. It takes up to three times as long to cut and polish by only a handful of skilled master diamond polishers and before leaving the workshop, the stone goes through 25 checkpoints. The Brilliant 10 diamond can be purchased online from Shimansky.
25
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SA JEWELLERY NEWS – january 2011
HARRY OPPENHEIMER DIAMOND TRAINING SCHOOL The courses that we present are: • Diamond Polishing Course • Rough Diamond Evaluation Course • Gemological Institute of America present courses at HODTS that we market , usually in August each year and these are: - Diamond Grading Lab (Polished Diamond Grading) - Gem Identification Lab - Coloured Stone Grading Lab Suite 301, 3rd Floor, SA Diamond Centre, 225 Main Street, Cnr Phillips Street, Johannesburg Tel: +27 11 334 9003 / 8420 | Fax: +27 11 334 9344 | Email: diamond.school@diamond.co.za
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LITTLE GEMS
Making a material difference Most people tend to think of precious metals when considering jewellery materials. However, Alice Weil looks at a host of different ones, from ancient times to the present day. Copper and brass are but two which have appeared – and still do – for selfadornment since the days of the Pharoahs when copper discs were inlaid with slivers of cornelian and a green and black glazed compound. In the Early Byzantium period a copper alloy was often tinted or gilded to imitate the richness of gold. In African countries copper has been use by tribes for self-adornment since time immemorial. It captures the allure of Africa and at the present time there are companies in Mpumalanga creating hand-finished jewellery in earthy colours inspired by Ndabele culture which capture the mystique of a long-forgotten era. In more sophisticated urban areas, a copper bracelet is reputed to have therapeutic powers. A now obsolete process applied to a copper base which was used extensively in France until the end of the 19th century, when it was outlawed, was Ormolu, found extensively on furniture and clocks, notably from the French Empire period. It has been replaced by silver-gilt (Vermeil) which has already been discussed in this column. But Ormolu was an interesting process which used finely-ground high-carat gold in an amalgam of mercury applied to bronze. It was known in English as giltbronze and by the French as bronze d‘or. It was usually applied to a piece of copper. However, because of the mercury content in the amalgam, which was exposed to extreme heat until it was burnt out, it was a dangerous operation for the workman and was banned in France. Also discarded, although at one time a popular material, was pinchbeck, named after a Fleet Street watchmaker who invented an alloy of zinc and copper which resembled gold. The term is now loosely applied to any gold-coloured metal used in 19th century jewellery. Although difficult to find today, it looks much richer in colour than any other alloy, wears better and tarnishes less. When the use of lowercarat gold was made legal in the mid-19th century, pinchbeck became redundant.
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Brass has become a popular metal in fashion jewellery and is seen on the catwalks and in shopping malls. It provides a touch of class to cheaper jewellery because of its muted yellow tone, which slightly resembles gold. No longer associated only with doorknobs, trumpets and locks, it has taken on a new image. Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc whereas bronze is an alloy of copper and tin. It is widely used in chains for necklaces and bracelets, often combined with other products such as beads and glass. As well as being chunky, it can also be dainty and light. Contemporary jewellery designers are finding it as malleable as silver or gold. Pewter jewellery, a fashion trend, is now reappearing in this industry. It is an alloy of metals with a large quantity of tin and smaller amounts of other metals including copper, antimony and bismuth, with the addition of hard metals. It is regarded as a soft, versatile metal alloy. The Celts used pewter to make knot-work patterns in jewellery because of its long-lasting sheen. It does not scratch or tarnish easily. New pewter today is free of lead, is a
non-allergenic material cheaper than gold and therefore presents more affordable jewellery. It has the appearance of silver jewellery and is easy to care for, taking less time to polish than silver. Glass was used in Egyptian jewellery and in its present guise it is possibly best-known by visitors to Venice and the Murano Glass Works. Its glass pendants, in particular, are colourful, attractive and “mod”. A newer form is Dichroic glass, which contains and provides splashes of colour in rings, earrings and pendants. Shell jewellery is usually associated with tropical islands, but a more sophisticated use of this material is for cameos. The art of cameo carving has been around since antiquity and while some cameos are carved from more sophisticated materials such as semi-precious gemstones, the more common forms from Italy, for example and particularly from Sorrento, where it is a vibrant industry, effectively use the layers of different colours in the shell to give importance to the main subject of the carving. The species of helmet shell and conch, the former with layers of brown and white, the conch pink and white, facilitate carving achieved on the top part of the shell, whereas the white layer is deep enough for detailed working.
SA JEWELLERY NEWS – JANUARY 2011
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