Perfect Timing 007’s Watches to leave you shaken and stirred

▼ Oyster Perpetual Submariner (1959)

PERFECT TIMING

He’s suave, he’s sexy, a superb strategist – and his watches are just as stylish

For decades, James Bond has captured the imagination of generations but did you know that his wristwatch wasn’t identified until Ian Fleming’s second novel, Live and Let Die (1954)? Bond wears a Rolex in this book, which isn’t surprising, because Fleming himself wore a Rolex Explorer!

Dr No (1962)

Here, Sean Connery as Bond sports a Rolex non-perpetual with a gold-coloured case, which became known as the “Sylvia Trench” Rolex. In the same movie, he also wears a Rolex Submariner, Reference 6358, without a date display. Some film fundis consider this model to have been one of Connery’s own, while others argue it was on loan from producer Albert “Cubby” Broccoli.

From Russia With Love (1963) / ▶ Dr. No Rolex Goldfinger (1964) Submariner. Bond sported a Rolex Submariner, Reference 6538. By Goldfinger, the third Bond film, the same watch was seen on a one-piece striped nylon strap, about which the Internet contains endless debate. Some say it was a hurried addition to a watch chosen at the last minute.

Thunderball (1965)

Bond wore two watches in Thunderball: a Rolex Submariner and a modified Breitling Top Time – characterised by a playful “Zorro” face which has since

TIMING

become one of the most recognisable dials in all of watchmaking. This watch was rediscovered in 2013 at an English flea market, where it was bought for just £25.

Christie’s then sold it for more than £100 000!

You Only Live Twice (1967)

No-one really knows exactly which watch accompanied 007, but some aficionados suspect it was a golden Gruen dress watch, which probably came from Connery’s private collection. Gruen, once one of the biggest watch manufacturers in America, went out of business in 1977.

On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (1969)

In this film, one-time Bond George Lazenby became the

◀ Rolex Reference 6238

first and only 007 agent to wear a Rolex chronograph, specifically the Rolex Reference 6238. He also sported a Rolex Submariner (Reference 5513) on a bracelet of iconic Oyster steel – which Lazenby bought himself to wear at his audition. However, during the scene where he had to break into an office to open a safe and copy documents, he took a Reference 6358 off his wrist!

Diamonds are Forever (1971)

Back as Bond was Sean Connery. He rarely wore a watch, but one did make a cameo appearance, although it’s not 100% clear what it was. Fundis believe it might have been the same golden Gruen worn in You Only Live Twice.

Live and Let Die (1973) / The Man With the Golden Gun (1974)

The most recognisable watch in history, with one billion people having seen Live and Let Die, the wristwatch worn on the wrist of Sir Roger Moore – who débuted as Bond – was a Rolex Submariner, Reference 5513, made in 1972 . He also wore a Pulsar LED digital watch from Hamilton, which helped usher in the quartz revolution. The Reference 5513 Sub was again the watch of choice for The Man With the Golden Gun.

The Spy Who Loved Me (1977)

The timepiece of choice was the Seiko, Reference 0674 LC, worn throughout the film. From this point onwards, Moore would only be seen wearing a Seiko, although promotional images of The Spy Who Loved Me did show him wearing a Rolex GMT-Master.

Moonraker (1979)

Moonraker saw 007 blast into space for the first time. Once again, a Seiko was the choice

– the Seiko M354 Memory Bank Calendar, one of the first “smartwatches”. “You may scoff at the basic LED display, but remember that in 40 years, your grandchildren will look at pictures of an Apple watch and laugh because it didn’t have hologram technology,” quips Timepiece Chronicle.

For Your Eyes Only (1981)

Moore dove into the Aegean Sea for his fifth Bond adventure, For Your Eyes Only. Two Seiko watches appeared: the Seiko 7549-7009 and the Seiko H357 Duo Display. The latter, an analogue display, included a digital display which was used to transmit messages. It also had a builtin microphone.

Octopussy / Never Say Never Again (1983)

Moore’s Bond wore a Seiko G757-5020. It contained a universal radio directionfinder and worked in conjunction with a listening device inside Bond’s fountain pen. The watch had a live video feed used together with Q Branch’s surveillance cameras and a homing device tracker.

The same year, Connery gave his final performance as Bond in Never Say Never Again. The identity

▲ Seiko M354

of his signature watch in this movie has remained a mystery. Speculation included a Porsche Design chronograph, a Prestige Watch International brand.

A View to a Kill (1985)

This was Roger Moore’s final appearance as Bond. He wore four watches: the Seiko SPR007 7A28-7020, a whitedialled quartz chronograph, a Seiko H558-500 SPW001 Dive Watch, a Seiko 6923-8080 SPD09, a two-tone watch and the fourth, a Rolex Datejust.

The Living Daylights (1987)

Timothy Dalton débuted as James Bond wearing a TAG

▲ Rolex Submariner Ref 16610. ◀ TAG Heuer Professional Night-Dive Reference 980.031.

Heuer Professional Night-Dive Reference 980.031 quartz dive watch with a fully black case and bracelet. Dalton was the first and only Bond to wear a TAG Heuer. This was the first time the brand had been identified as part of the Bond watch legacy.

Licence to Kill (1989)

In Dalton’s second and final adventure as James Bond, Licence to Kill, Bond wore a magnificent Rolex Submariner, Reference 16610. In fact, it was worn by Dalton’s stunt double. It was Rolex’s first appearance since 1974 and would also be its last.

▲ Seiko SPR007 7A28-7020.

GoldenEye (1995)

Pierce Brosnan wore a quartz version of the Omega Seamaster Professional 300M, Reference 2541.80, when he took over as James Bond in GoldenEye. The first of 007’s non-Seiko/Rolex gadget watches, it had two extra features built into it by Q. One was a laser in the pip of the bezel, while the other was a connection to a remote detonator in the helium escape valve – the stuff of spies!

Tomorrow Never Dies (1997) / The World is Not Enough (1999) / Die Another Day (2002)

An Omega Seamaster Professional, Reference 2531.80, was again the co-star in Brosnan’s three subsequent films. It appeared in Tomorrow Never Dies, The World Is Not Enough and in Die Another Day.

▲ Omega Seamaster Diver 300m.

Casino Royale (2006)

In Daniel Craigs début as Bond, he alternately wore an Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, Reference 2220.80 and his own signature model, a Seamaster Planet Ocean, Reference 2900.50.91.

Quantum of Solace (2008)

In Quantum of Solace, 007 wore a special-edition Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean, Reference 2201.50. It featured a stunning black dial and “007” on the bottom of the second hand.

Skyfall (2012)

007 relied on a Planet Ocean 600M and a dressier, bluedialled Aqua Terra, both powered by Omega co-axial calibres. Bond’s Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M had a titanium case, unlike the serially manufactured version, which is stainless steel.

Spectre (2015)

In Spectre, Bond wore two

Seamasters. The first was an Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition with a rare lollipop seconds hand and black and grey

NATO strap. The second was the Omega Aqua

Terra 150m with a blue dial that recalled Omega’s rich maritime heritage and Bond’s naval background.

▲ Omega Seamaster Professional 300M, Reference 2541.80.

No Time to Die (expected in 2021)

Unlike previous watches, the timepiece Bond wears is the non-limited Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition, built from tough titanium. It was even designed with input from Craig. First launched in 1993, the Diver 300M has built its legacy with real-life divers and style aficionados, as well as becoming the quintessential wrist-candy of MI6’s indomitable agent. Watch out for this one.

Shaken, not stirred, please!