Check yourDeck!

by Lucie Gardiner photos Michael Falther

Considering repairing or replacing your vessel’s teak deck? With a finite supply of teak and a focus on sustainable solutions, high-quality, naturally-grown teak is becoming a rare commodity. In this month’s edition, Michael Falther, Shipwright & Owner of Scandinavian Teak Deck Spain S.L., talks us through the process.

How to decide if old decking needs replacing

It’s import ant to consider the construction of the yacht. Pure composite, steel/aluminium, or a combination of both.

With composite (fibreglass/carbon and resin), the age of the boat is key. If it’s less than 15 years old and mostly built with a cell foam core that doesn’t absorb water, the main concerns are adhesion and the thickness of the deck. If it measures 6-8mm, then there’s still years of usage left, provided it is refurbished correctly. If the problem is loose decking; infusing or backfilling with epoxy glue will be enough to get the loose deck back in place. In older composite vessels, Bolsa wood may have been used in construction and since this can rot, more care needs to be taken during the initial inspection.

Steel or aluminium needs an even more careful inspection. It is not solely thickness and adhesion that are is- sues here, but also leakage/seam failure, corrosion and rust. Thorough checking is imperative. If rust or corrosion is detected, there will be no choice but to replace the deck - regardless of the condition of the teak. Structural repairs will need to be undertaken before laying any new deck.

How t o check if your deck is thick enough to be refurbished

1. Che ck the high-traffic areas of the deck, walkways and entry deck hatches, etc - if the margins are thinner by the edge of the hatches, don’t worry, this is normal and can easily be replaced. Check with a straight ruler, not only on the margins but over the surrounding decking, to give you a true thickness measurement. For walkways, open up a seam and with a narrow chisel dig out to the bottom of the seam/top composite surface, and you will see the thickness in those areas.

2. If the old decking measures a minimum 6-8mm thickness, doesn’t have major defects and the water drains well, it is strongly recommended to have the decks re-seamed and backfilled with new epoxy adhesion in areas where teak is loose. Change the teak locally where needed and have the deck professionally sanded down. In most cases, this will give the old teak decking an extra 3-5 years of life and will cost a quarter to a third less than a new deck.

Michael Falther Managing Director

Scandinavian Teak Deck, Spain S.L.

Email: mic@scandinavianteakdeck.com

Web: www.scandinavianteakdeck.com

ES / WAB +34 676 356 364

DK / WA +45 21 43 88 99

How to maintain a new or refurbished teak deck

• Ensure decking has a smooth surface. T his will make sure it drains properly and prevents residue/mould in the grooves.

• Don’t be afraid to lightly sand the decks once a year to remove high points of grow rings and keep decks smooth for proper drainage.

• Always check the deck seams for leaks. If the caulking gets loose from the seams, have it repaired as soon as it is spotted to prevent water from getting under the decks and causing a much larger problem.

• Avoid 2-part acid teak cleaners. The issue with these products is that if residue remains on deck, the acid will stay in the grooves and keep “eating” the teak. This will wear out the decking much faster than a yearly light sanding.

• Never add oil to decking as this will make the teak surface sticky, and residue and dirt will stain the teak.

• The best way to conserve a newly sanded teak deck is simply to thoroughly wash it down with a high salt solution in hot water as this prevents mould growth.

• Weekly/monthly maintenance is dependent on the conditions the yacht is under. Wash/scrub across teak decking using a white ScotchBrite pad or a soft brush and sea/salt water. Only resort to soap if very dirty and use a soap which has a PH8-9.