ISLAND OF THE MONTH
An Island Publication
FOR PRIVATE YACHT & COUNTRY CLUB MEMBERS ONLY
The Island Guide
The British Virgin Islands
Welcome
to the Island of the Month Club. We hope you enjoy this month’s party and beautiful island guide. Our goal is to make sure everyone has a wonderful dining experience while learning about a new and enticing island. With over 180,000 islands in the world to choose from, our mission is never ending and always exciting. This month, we are highlighting the beautiful British Virgin Islands. As you learn more about the BVIs, you will find that each island has its own special beauty, character and legends. Known as “the land that time forgot,” the British Virgin Islands remain an undeveloped haven for natural treasures. Steeped in a history laden with Western discovery and swashbuckling pirates, the BVIs merge a fabled past with the finest of world class luxury resorts. Thank you for inviting us to your Club. Enjoy the party! And… see you next month. Sincerely, The Island of the Month Club
4
Introduction to the British Virgin Islands
38 Fishing
6
44
10
48
Getting Here
Jost Van Dyke
Peter Island Resort & Spa
Pusser’s Rum
22
Anegada
28
Tortola
34
Virgin Gorda
72
Awards & Distinctions
84
Little Dix Bay
94
Bitter End Yacht Club
Welcome to the
British Virgin Islands! Nature’s Little Secrets
2 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Known as “the land that time forgot,” the British Virgin Islands remains an undevelopedhaven for natural treasures; unlike the glitz and glam of its Caribbean neighbours. What the destination lacks is its greatest asset – no high-rise hotels, no casinos and no crowds. The pure and indefinable beauty of the unspoiled land is the main attraction – verdant hillsides covered in ancient mahogany trees and cacti, pristine beaches kissed by Technicolor tides, a colourful aquarium of the world’s most diverse sea life, extensive coral reefs responsible for claiming renowned wrecks as well as vast outbacks and wildlife sanctuaries sheltering endangered species. More than 60 islands form a distinct pattern around the Sir Frances Drake Channel – including the main island of Tortola, creating the backbone of the Channel and Virgin Gorda stretching to form the eastern border. Wild Jost Van Dyke lingers in the west with Anegada dangling remotely north and a series of smaller islands speckled in the south – the BVI reveals nature’s little secrets in every cove.
introduction
Virgin Gorda
Natural Wonder And Island Of Mystery
Steeped in a history laden with Western discovery and swashbuckling pirates, including the infamous Blackbeard, the BVI merges a fabled past with blank pages to create future stories. Childhood fantasies of Robinson Crusoe and Swiss Family Robinson come to life, as ‘island roving’ becomes a way of life, discovering islands that appear to have remained untouched for centuries. With islands visible from nearly every vantage point, some appearing close enough to swim to, the BVI provides mystical, ever-changing scenery.
clapboard shutters, unpaved roads leading to secret hideaways, scents of orange blossom lingering in the morning air and wild roosters providing the morning wake up call. Only scarce touches of technology interrupt the calm. A new addition to Tortola, roads were just completed in the last two decades; prior to this, donkey-back was the preferred method of transportation. Likewise, Jost Van Dyke welcomed electricity for the first time in 1991.
Authentic in its Caribbean identity, the BVI is purely island with brightly-hued houses no taller than a palm tree, shops decorated with
Entrenched in this aquatic playground, the BVI is known for some of the best sailing, diving, snorkelling & fishing in the Caribbean.
Genuine in her hospitality, the BVI is a welcoming nation where permanent residents – called BVIslanders – and visitors alike greet A mix of sun, clouds and the sheer height of peaks transform both colours of the sea and the each other with a warm smile, a hearty handhillsides from light to dark (and every shade in shake and a simple beep of the horn to say hello to passers by. between) in a matter of seconds. Undoubtedly, the most breathtaking attraction is the more than 24 hectares of unmistakable waters of the Here, whether a long-time friend or first-time guest, drinks are offered to the thirsty, johnny BVI that leave witnesses speechless, only able to utter the word “wow” as the gradient shades cakes (a small fried biscuit made from scratch) are offered to the hungry and rides are offered of blue move from crystal clear to turquoise, teal, azure and cobalt. to those on foot.
4 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Acclaimed the “Sailing Capital of the World” with fair weather and constant winds, most islands are reached by line of sight navigation and contained within an 80 nautical kilometre radius. With both crewed and bareboat charters available (Tortola houses the largest bareboat fleet in the Caribbean totalling more than 700) these “floating rooms” bring to life the saying ‘discover your own island’ as hundreds of island ports are available for docking, each with a distinct personality, decisive charm and hidden secrets. Norman Island offers a welcoming first stop for sailors at The Bight.
From Norman Island, boats drift slightly northwest to visit The Indians and drop anchor for some of the BVI’s best snorkelling. Just east of Norman Island, Peter Island beckons boats with the most romantic beach in the BVI (despite its name) -- Dead Man’s Bay. Continuing on a northeastern course, Virgin Gorda elegantly appears, her southwestern tip home to The Baths. The many coves, bays, reefs and islets for mooring and anchorage also offer sightings of a new existence for divers and snorkellers. Just off the Coast of Salt Island lies the most famous dive site in the Caribbean – the Wreck of the Rhone – where the mighty iron-hulled
steam-sailing vessel sank after encountering the Great Hurricane of 1867. In the south, Norman Island – Robert Louis Stevenson’s inspiration for “Treasure Island” – lays claim to the legendary Caves and nearby Indians – a cluster of four rocks rising 15 meters above the shimmering surface of the sea.
Breaking world records – including the record for Atlantic Blue Marlin weighing 590 kilograms – the BVI offers the most diverse fishing as well as the most constant source of marine life in the Caribbean. From “secret” fishing holes tucked into shallow crevices to renowned deep water spots, the BVI provides fishermen fruitful waters to catch more than 160 varieties including Wahoo, dolphin, tuna, king fish, marlin, tarpon and bonefish. The “drowned” island of Anegada is particularly well known for the abundance of silvery bonefish wading off shore. With a total population of just under 26,000, only a few islands in the BVI are actually inhabited. With hundreds of bays, the curvy Tortola offers simple pleasures on every side, from surfing Atlantic swells in the northern Apple and Josiah’s Bay and embarking on sailing adventures in the South from Nanny Cay and Road Town Harbour to congregating among fellow yachtsmen in the West at the chic Soper’s Hole and energetic Cane Garden Bay. The most populous island in the BVI, Tortola is the city centre and home to 80 percent of BVIslanders.
Arriving by air...
Connecting airports surround the BVI, making arrivals and departures an easy part of your travel itinerary. When travelling to the BVI, there are no direct flights from the USA, Canada, Europe, or South America to the British Virgin Islands’ main airport, the Terrence B. Lettsome Airport (EIS). Private charter companies are an extremely easy alternative. All flights must connect through another Caribbean airport on islands such as Puerto Rico, St. Thomas, Antigua, St. Kitts, or St. Maarten/St. Martin. Your travel agent or international airline will be able to assist with booking flights. If you plan to make reservations online, remember that you will have to request flights to Tortola (EIS). If you are travelling on to Virgin Gorda, Anegada, Peter Island, or Jost van Dyke, check with your hotel, resort, or villa to make sure that charter flights or ferry service will be available if you arrive after 4pm. Otherwise, plan to spend a night or two in Tortola before exploring the rest of “Nature’s Little Secrets.” Boat charters can be arranged via St. Thomas, Road Town or Beef Island. The most direct way to arrive to the BVI is via San Juan, Puerto Rico (SJU). Frequent connecting service is offered by American
Eagle, Air Sunshine, LIAT and Cape Air, with occasional service by other airlines and charter flights. If you choose to arrive via St. Thomas (STT), you can schedule a connecting flight via Air Sunshine to Tortola, Virgin Gorda, or Anegada. Most travellers take one of the frequent ferries that travel between downtown Charlotte Amalie or Red Hook, St. Thomas and Tortola. This is very easy - take a taxi at the St. Thomas Airport and ask the driver for the next ferry to Tortola. The ferry will arrive at the immigration station at West End, Tortola. Ferries from St. Thomas to Tortola only operate during daylight hours, so the last ferry is usually around 5pm. Make sure that your flight arrives in time for the transfer to Red Hook (approximately 45 minutes), or make arrangements to stay overnight in St. Thomas and catch the ferry the following morning. Ferry service starts at approximately 7:30am. Travellers from the UK and Canada may find it easiest to travel to Antigua (ANU) and then take a connecting flight to Tortola on LIAT, or private charter flight. Limited service is also available from St. Maarten/St. Martin (SXM) and St. Kitts (SKB) on LIAT and Winair.
island of the month - British Virgin Islands
7
getting here
Flights via San Juan, Puerto Rico Airport Code [SJU]: The most direct way to fly to the BVI is via San Juan, Puerto Rico. Frequent connecting service is offered by American Eagle, Cape Air, with occasional service by other airlines and charter flights. Air Sunshine has direct flights from San Juan to Beef Island and Virgin Gorda.
Flights via St. Thomas - Airport Code [STT]: If you choose to arrive via St. Thomas, Air Sunshine has regular flights to Tortola and Virgin Gorda. Most travellers take one of the frequent ferries that travel between downtown Charlotte Amalie or Red Hook, St. Thomas and Tortola. Ferry service is available to Virgin Gorda and Anegada on certain days and to Virgin Gorda every day via West End or Road Town.
Getting to the next ferry is very easy - just take a taxi at the St. Thomas Airport and let the taxi driver know that you need to take the next ferry to Tortola or Virgin Gorda (with connections to Anegada & Jost Van Dyke). The taxi drivers will know of any schedule changes and make sure you reach the proper terminal for your connection.
Remember that ferries from St. Thomas to Tortola and Virgin Gorda (with connections to Anegada and Jost Van Dyke) only operate during daylight hours - so the last ferry is usually around 5 pm. Make sure that your flight arrives in time for the transfer to Red Hook (approximately 45 minutes) or make arrangements to overnight in St. Thomas and catch the ferry the following morning. Ferry service starts at approximately 7:30 am.
Flights via Antigua Airport Code [ANU]: Travellers from the UK (from London, Gatwick) and Canada may find it easiest to travel directly to Antigua by way of the Lester Bird International Airport and then take a connecting flight to Tortola on LIAT, or private charter flights.
From other Caribbean Islands: Scheduled service is also available from St. Maarten/St. Martin, St. Kitts, as are connecting flights from Barbados and St. Croix.
island of the month - British Virgin Islands
9
THIS is Peter Island.
10 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
There are some places on earth that simply must be experienced to fully understand. Peter Island is one of those places. While words and images can stir the imagination, you will never know the true magic of our private island paradise until you feel it beneath your feet. Welcome to the Peter Island experience, British Virgin Islands. Welcome to Peter Island Resort & Spa.
peter island
Romance, seclusion, and an island all your own.
12 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Romance is in the air on Peter Island. It blows gently through the palms, through the ornamental exotic plants and flowers throughout the verdant landscape, filling the air with aromas, tropical flowers and salty air, coconuts and sea grapes. Walks in the evening along the marina, along the moonlit beaches, on winding paths throughout the island, almost always end in the same place. Such is the magic and romance of Peter Island.
The Spa 18° 21’ 15.26” N64° 34’ 04.26”
Ancient traditions. Revived on the shores of tropical bliss. This is the Spa on Peter Island. Ayurveda-inspired treatments soothe the soul and arouse the senses. Here, you will be awakened to a level of pampering unrivaled in all of the British Virgin Islands.
peter island spa
Body Treatments. 18° 21’ 15.26” N64° 34’ 04.26” W
Glow with radiance after our exfoliating treatments. We have so many luxurious treatments from which to choose...ranging from our incredible coconut rub to our caribbean coffee polish and everything in between. The hardest thing you will do all day is decide! 16 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Ingrid Millet once said, “Clean, balanced, translucent skin begins deep within the sea.” Or maybe it was Jaques Cousteau. Either way, this is the best of the best when it comes to putting stuff on your face. Our entire line of facials and incredible skin care products will leave you looking and feeling your best.
Facial Renewals. 18° 21' 15.26" N64° 34' 04.26" W
peter island
Dining. 18° 21’ 32.90” N 64° 34’ 31.15”
We prepare only the freshest fare here on Peter Island. Only the finest could complement the natural splendor that surrounds us. Of course, that and a fine vintage from our extensive wine cellar would do.
18 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Our signature restaurant features the Caribbean’s most renowned chefs. Warm breezes whisper by as the delicate chimes of German china, French silverware, and Italian crystal fill the air. Welcome to the intimacy of Tradewinds Restaurant. Be sure to make a special visit on Saturday nights for our legendary Tradewinds Gala Buffet, featuring Caribbean twists on everything from salads, vegetables and fruits to fresh seafood and meats featured at our live carving stations. But beware: get too full and you’ll miss out on an amazing variety of homemade desserts.
Romance. 18° 21’ 12.98” N64° 34’ 04.28” W
peter island
Some guests think our specialty is amazing cuisine. Some think its our world-class accommodations. Others still think its the ocean view and landscape. But there are a select few who know the truth. Peter Island’s specialty, is of course, romance. island of the month - British Virgin Islands
21
Anegada
a world apart
22 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Solitary Atoll And Island Of Mystery Just barely grazing above the surface of a magnificent Technicolor sea -- the only height punctuated by pink conch shell “mountains� -- the drowned island of Anegada beckons visitors to the isolated north with captivating sunsets turning the normally aqua water a rich golden hue, succulent lobster feasts, challenging sailing outside of the protective Sir Frances Drake Channel and a welcoming remoteness in the form of untouched beaches stretching far beyond the eye’s gaze. Laying directly north of the most easterly appendage of Virgin Gorda and dangling remotely in the Atlantic Ocean, the nearly uninhabited Anegada is so isolated that stroll along the nearly 37 kilometres of uninterrupted beach rarely meets another soul.
anegada Unlike her volcanic siblings, Anegada stands as a flat coral atoll, drenched in level beaches rimming the island and extensive salt ponds in the west. Accessible by private plane, boat or ferry, the island has a main, unpaved road and just one landing strip centred in a tiny cow pasture. Avid sailors test their skills upon sail to Anegada, venturing out of the safe harbour of the Channel into the open waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Unable to rely on sight sailing as in the Channel, sailors seemingly stumble upon the southern shore of the island as it suddenly arises from the ocean swell. Not high enough to share its position in the sea, from the air Anegada is still hardly distinguishable, the only defining feature being the illuminant reef surrounding the entire island. With less than 200 permanent residents, the entire island operates on the honour system; in fact locals do not even carry a wallet.
24 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Solitary Atoll And Island Of Mystery Just barely grazing above the surface of a magnificent Technicolor sea -- the only height punctuated by pink conch shell “mountains� -- the drowned island of Anegada beckons visitors to the isolated north with captivating sunsets turning the normally aqua water a rich golden hue, succulent lobster feasts, challenging sailing outside of the protective Sir Frances Drake Channel and a welcoming remoteness in the form of untouched beaches stretching far beyond the eye’s gaze. Laying directly north of the most easterly appendage of Virgin Gorda and dangling remotely in the Atlantic Ocean, the nearly uninhabited Anegada is so isolated that stroll along the nearly 37 kilometres of uninterrupted beach rarely meets another soul.
anegada
Anegada is home to more wildlife than humans, boasting an expansive outback sheltering several rare species both plant and animal, including the endangered Anegada rock iguana, the seldom seen “air plant,� and frangipani tree that bends and diverts into multiple arms -- nature’s version of abstract art. Even the fishing is rare in Anegada, boasting some of the best bonefishing in the world, the elusive, saltwater version of fly-fishing. The beaches of Anegada are marked by white-sand, waters ranging from crystal clear to almost fluorescent shades of turquoise, succulent plant life and fragrant bay lavender. With the Anegada and Horseshoe Reefs surrounding the island, the shallow waters of Loblolly Bay -- with a 27 meter walkout into the ocean -- mark the ideal entry point for snorkellers as the waters open up to an explosion of colour and texture, from metallic mojarra fish and shimmering needlefishes to brightly-dressed mantis shrimp found on the sunlit, sandy bottom. Boulder coral and thick strands of branching elkhorn coral form a maze of caves and tunnels in the deeper indigo waters, where more than 200 boats lie beneath with undiscovered treasures sought after by divers from around the world. At Cow Wreck Bay, the white sand is cold underneath feet and the water refreshing.
26 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
From the water to the table, the most delectable sea creature is the Anegada Lobster -- spiny and spotted without claws but with a tail that claps as fishermen proudly hold their catch up in the air. Prepared in old oil drums converted into grills the succulent meat is the main attraction at island restaurants from lunch underneath the thatch-roof of Big Bamboo where conch shells are used for doorstops to dinner at Anegada Reef Hotel where secret sauce flows freely, but the native island recipe does not.
At Cow Wreck Beach Restaurant & Bar, the iconic dinner item is served on long picnic tables topped with purple lilies picked fresh every morning by the owner.
Tortola
City Centre and Island Of Mystery
28 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Rising from the Technicolor tides as the anchor island of the British Virgin Islands and greeting all to the Caribbean nation, Tortola -- lined with a scalloped edge alternating from bay to peninsula -- mesmerizes visitors with breathtaking views of white crescent beaches, radiant blue bays, lush hillsides and mountain tops and a personality that is both warm and welcoming. The curvy island offers simple pleasures on every side, from surfing Atlantic swells in the North and embarking on sailing adventures in the South to discovering the history of the island in the East and congregating among fellow yachtsmen in the West. Also long in her physique, (more than 39 square kilometres) Tortola is the backbone of the Sir Frances Drake Channel, creating the best sailing in the world as the smaller southern islands of Norman, Peter, Cooper, Salt and Ginger provide sailors safe passage.
tortola Sweeping Cane Garden Bay -- dotted with open-air restaurants and bars, simple accommodations, a dive shop and a lone tire swing dangling from a coconut palm -- caters to day-trippers who disembark from boats with a simple jump and settle in the sand with a cold beer in hand.
In contrast, Smuggler’s Cove is a hidden crescent-shaped beach and lush landscape of seagrapes and palms edged right up to the sand, creating a barrier from the rest of the world and promoting nothing more than peace and quiet. At Carrot Bay, local fishermen clean their catch while quietly telling stories about the islands and sharing extras with oversized seagulls circling overhead. Nearby Long Bay boasts the longest stretch of beach on Tortola totalling more than one kilometre of uninterrupted sands.
30 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Tortola welcomes “BVIslanders” (more than 80 percent of locals live here) and visitors with lively entertainment around every corner and hospitality as vibrant as the gradient shades of blue that define the unmistakable waters of the BVI. The capital city of Road Town flutters with activity during the day, from shopping at Crafts Alive -- an open-air market stocked with rustic dolls, colourful straw hats and hand-thrown pottery -- to browsing through native BVI plants at the J. R. O’Neal Botanic Garden and unlocking the historical past of the island at quaint museums including the H.L. Stoutt Community College Maritime Museum where wooden sloops reminiscent of the “Old Man and the Sea” are on display. With full moon parties featuring mushroom tea and liquid pleasure in the form of all things rum, the most infamous night time entertainment in the BVI is found along Capoons Bay at the Bomba Shack -constructed from two by fours, “windows” with seagrape trees growing through, a sand floor and rickety tin roof.
tortola
Whether enjoying a day of beach retreat or a more active lifestyle, Tortola embraces visitors with her best-kept secret, the Jewels of the BVI -- a charming collection of intimate inns, villas and hotels nestled in her hills and along her shores. Home to the most hotel rooms in the BVI (both on land and floating), Tortola exudes generosity and warmth at more than 70 locally-owned hideaways. Additional rooms are found on Tortola in the form of luxury yachts and sailboats. Nearly 300 boats -- some appropriately named “Roam” and “Nirvana” -- are available for rental either with or without the assistance of a friendly skipper to lead the way.
32 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
From beach-shack eateries to decadent restaurants, Tortola is the culinary hub of the BVI, offering visitors the freshest seafood plucked straight from the sea and seasoned with West Indian culture and authentic Caribbean spice. Taste buds awaken, indulging in pink salmon and plump shrimp canapés served beachside at the Sugar Mill Resort on Apple Bay, revelling in pure island zest at Quito’s Gazebo with chicken rote and pumpkin fritters, feasting on appetizers like ender beef carpaccio or grilled Portobello mushrooms at Brandywine Bay or imbibing at Pusser’s Company Store where Pusser’s Rum freely pours like the sea outside, complemented by English pub grub. Training some of the most innovative chefs in the world, including Alton Brown, creator and host of “Good Eats” on the Food Network, Tortola’s accredited branch of the New England Culinary Institute is responsible for creating some of the most inventive dishes of the BVI. A sample includes artichoke-stuffed salmon with rosemary shrimp and spaghetti squash to a sweet conclusion of Chocolate Bombe with velvety chocolate centres. Students learn from the finest chefs in the Caribbean, working side by side at such renowned establishments as Butler’s at The Inn at Essex and La Brioche.
As part of the British Virgin Islands, Tortola is one of the foremost international financial centres with approximately 500,000 companies on the financial Register. Since the adoption of the pioneering International Business Companies legislation in 1984 to the introduction of the new BVI Business Companies Act in 2004, the BVI has earned recognition as a highquality international financial centre.
Virgin Gorda
Natural Wonder And Island Of Mystery
Creating the eastern most border of the British Virgin Islands, Virgin Gorda -- named by Christopher Columbus in 1493 for her long shape and belly-like feature -- beckons sailors from all ports-of-call to discover her bountiful gifts, from Mother Nature’s work of art at The Baths to the luxurious accommodations and charming Jewels of the BVI. A short sail from the main island of Tortola, just 19 kilometres across the Sir Francis Drake Channel, Virgin Gorda tempts visitors with the best of both beaches and mountains -- flat, powdery sands on the south side and lush vegetation on peaks and hills running along the spine of the north shore. Sitting more than 366 meters above the sunlit sea in a natural preserve of mahogany trees, Gorda Peak (the belly of the Virgin), provides panoramic views of the necklace of islands below, from remote Anegada high in the north to the smaller Fallen Jerusalem and Round Rock to the south.
island of the month - British Virgin Islands
35
virgin gorda
Perhaps best known for her natural masterpieces, the Virgin stretches 16 square kilometres long and features uninhabited beaches including the nearly abandoned Savannah Bay, Pond Bay and Mountain Trunk on the North shore with spectacular views of Tortola and the northern islands. The North Sound on Virgin Gorda offers near perfect sailing conditions with protected waters and close proximity to several tiny islands including Mosquito overlooking Colquhoun Reef, Prickly Pear with cacti-covered hills, Eustatia and Saba Rock. Along the south shore at Bercher’s Bay and the South Sound, a glimpse of the empty ocean is captured as it seems to extend into eternity with nothing but a soft haze to separate sea and sky. Located at the tip of the Virgin’s southwest legs are the most notable beaches on the island -- The Baths -- whose mysterious origins are thought to be from eons of evolution. The initial trail leading down to The Baths provides a hint of what is yet to be experienced as huge stones and twisted branches overhead line the way. Anticipation heightens as the first slender beach is reached, laden with granite boulders stacked and strewn across the white sand with palms appearing to grow out of the stones. 36 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
A second trail leading to Devil’s Bay winds through grottoes filled with shallow wading pools, formed from the giant stones that lean against and support each other, only giving way to slender crevices that allow the sea to rush in. On approach, the entrance to the rock labyrinth appears to be too slender to breach, however a simple duck of the head and bend of the back lets bodies manoeuvre into what opens into a grand cavern accented by a series of smaller caves. Illuminated by beams of light squeezing through slender crevices in the cathedral-like ceilings, the caves are lined with colourful stones -- some purple with black spots, some grey and others white with pink coral growing atop. Tiny, silver fish explore toes through water so refreshing and cool it feels like spring water rather than the sea. Boulders that create the walls are marked by various hues, including teal, burnt orange and violet chalked across the surface.
Solitary Atoll And Island Of Mystery Just barely grazing above the surface of a magnificent Technicolor sea -- the only height punctuated by pink conch shell “mountains” -- the drowned island of Anegada beckons visitors to the isolated north with captivating sunsets turning the normally aqua water a rich golden hue, succulent lobster feasts, challenging sailing outside of the protective Sir Frances Drake Channel and a welcoming remoteness in the form of untouched beaches stretching far beyond the eye’s gaze. Laying directly north of the most easterly appendage of Virgin Gorda and dangling remotely in the Atlantic Ocean, the nearly uninhabited Anegada is so isolated that stroll along the nearly 37 kilometres of uninterrupted beach rarely meets another soul.
Fishing 38 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Breaking World Records in the BVI Breaking world records, including the record for Atlantic Blue Marlin weighing 590 kilograms, the British Virgin Islands offers the most diverse fishing as well as the most constant source of marine life in the Caribbean. From “secret� fishing holes tucked into the shallow crevices of more than 60 islands to renowned deep water spots, the BVI provides fishermen fruitful waters to catch more than 160 varieties including wahoo, dolphin, tuna, king fish, marlin, tarpon and bonefish.
fishing
40 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
From the largest island of Tortola creating the backbone of the Sir Frances Drake Channel and Virgin Gorda forming the eastern edge, to the smaller islands of Norman, Peter and Cooper speckling the south and Anegada dangling in the north, the cool waters that surround the islands of the BVI ensure that fish remain year-round rather than migrating. Another factor contributing to the abundance of fish is plentiful food supplies found in the form of baitfish with some schools measuring a quarter of a kilometre wide by a quarter of a kilometre long and eight meters deep. So rich, Sperm whales migrating during mating season have even been known to make a pit stop to feast on the dense schools.
fishing
Deep-water fishing in the BVI, like flats fishing, is just as productive, offering record-breaking marlin and billfish at a profusion of deep-sea drop offs near the shores of Anegada, Jost Van Dyke and one of the largest by Peter Island measuring thousands of feet. Just 28 kilometres from Jost Van Dyke, the North Drop presents a steep change in depth that moves from 30 to 200 fathoms (366 meters) almost instantaneously & at its deepest point reaches 10,000 meters. World-renowned for marlin that average 225 kilograms, the North Drop, is also home to yellowfin and blackfin tuna, wahoo, and dolphin. Just 30 minutes off the coast of the north-eastern end of Virgin Gorda, the South Drop is a blue marlin fishery with a topography of numerous peaks and valleys and dense “clouds� of baitfish that attract concentrations of marlins to the area. 42 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Jost Van Dyke Barefoot Beach and Island of Mystery
Situated just outside of the necklace of the British Virgin Islands, slightly northwest of the West End of Tortola, Jost Van Dyke is a perfect stopover among BVI island hoppers, exuding a ‘lost in time’ feel with undeveloped beaches and shack bars, punctuated by its lack of manmade amenities -- no televisions, no computers, no distractions. Here, the beach is the main road. Just 10 square-kilometers, Jost Van Dyke is home to only 150 permanent residents and a handful of accommodations, however the island is one of the most popular day excursions in the BVI offering several restaurants, bars and plenty of barren beach, where the only requirement is sunscreen. 44 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
jost van dyke
A series of small islets lay just off the eastern coast, including Diamond Cay, taking visitors off-road on goat trails leading to the Bubbly Pool where at high tide water rushes over jagged rocks to create a natural sea spa churning up champagne-like bubbles. The uninhabited Green Cay and Sandy Spit (a small patch of sand in the middle of the sea) welcome sailors to drop anchor and relax undisturbed save for brief breaks to snorkel or dive. Just a mile south, Sandy Cay is the epitome of a tropical isle with gently sloping beach, varying botanical landscape and dramatic surfside cliffs with rugged rocks below.
46 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
In addition to unspoiled beaches, Jost Van Dyke is known for its many laid-back bars and restaurants, including the infamous Foxy’s Tamarind Bar in Great Harbour, opened by native islander Philicianno “Foxy” Callwood in the 1960s. Marked by a rusted anchor in the sand adorned with a ripped pirate’s flag, Foxy’s is a true beach bar with no walls and a makeshift ceiling of wood and tin. Filled with the curried scents of fresh roti, Foxy’s is a testament to the past as visitors leave a piece of themselves on the island by tacking business cards, photos and signed T-shirts to any piece of exposed timber.
Corsairs At Ivan’s Stress Free Bar in White Bay, the motto ‘no shoes, no shirts, no problems’ is brought to life. Operated on the honour system, Ivan allows docking visitors to help themselves behind the bar so he is able to mingle with guests. A friendly host who prefers hugs to handshakes; Ivan has an affinity for shells and provides visitors with slats of wooden boards, seashells and clay to create their own decoration to be hung inside. The most recognizable shell décor was created by country music star Kenny Chesney who shared Ivan’s stress-free motto with the world in his “No Shoes, No Shirts, No Problems” video. After his television debut, Ivan also accompanied Kenny to the U.S. in 2005 to perform as an opening act for one of his sold-out concerts.
History of Marina Cay
Marina Cay is truly one of the jewels of the Caribbean, and home to the true romance of Robb and Rodie White in the 1930′s. In 1937, in the middle of the great depression, Robb and Rodie White, only four months married, came to the British Virgin Islands and settled on this delightful little island. He was 28, and she was 24. The island was uninhabited, and they decided to make it their own private Shangri-La as they set up housekeeping on this tiny, remote and almost barren island. Here they managed to create a happy and carefree life as they struggled to build themselves a house of concrete, with a cistern to provide water. Their house still stands on the summit, and has been restored to its original condition.
exchange. Their solidly built house gave them good shelter. The sea gave them food. And a thirteen foot sailboat was transportation. Unlike stories of people desperately trying to escape from desert islands, Robb White and his wife, Rodie, very much wanted to remain on their island in the sun, their own private Shangri-La. And remain they did – for three years, during which time Robb White struggled to become an author as war clouds gathered over Europe. They survived tropical storms, a visit from Rodie’s mother (who did not find the sparse amenities of Marina Cay comparable to those of her 8,000acre Georgia Plantation), and even a visit from a contingent of the German navy. Robb White wrote the book Two On the Isle, their charming story of Marina Cay which later became a film starring Sidney Poitier, much of it shot on the island. In the years that followed, he authored many books and films, including the well known Word War II drama, Torpedo Alley. Robb White had graduated from the U.S. Naval Academy, and was called off to war in 1940. He and Rodie parted after the war, and neither he nor she ever returned to Marina Cay. As he wrote when he saw Rodie when he returned from the Pacific, “.. she smelled like Marina Cay and sounded like Marina Cay and made me think-but only for a little while-about the Marina Cay that had been, and never could be again.”
They tried digging a hole for their cistern so as to have it below ground, but unfortunately struck solid rock. So instead, they built the cistern above ground thereby ending up with the two level house you see today where their bedroom occupied the high level over the cistern. The house is now used as a reading room and book
A series of large photographs on the wall of the beach restaurant at Marina Cay tells the story of Robb & Rodie White on Marina Cay. These old photos were taken by a sailing visitor from San Juan who visited the island occasionally during the years from 1937 to 1940. Fortunately, they came to the attention of Pusser’s which had them restored and enlarged so that this part of the island’s history has been preserved.
island of the month - British Virgin Islands
49
pusser’s
RUM FOLKLORE
“THE Origin Of Grog & Vernon’s Orders”
This most traditional of all rum drinks is a rich part of the early history of Pusser’s Rum. There was an Admiral by the name of Vernon who was the hero of the Battle of Porto Bello and the Commander-in-Chief, West Indies Station, the prime area for Spanish trade in the Caribbean. He had selected Porto Bello for attack because he learned that a large assignment of gold and silver had been sent there from Panama. The remarkable sequel, which followed the town’s capture, was Vernon’s decision that all public money found was to be divided fairly as prize money among those British crews which took part in the engagement. This was a brave step, in defiance of the regulations, but general delight at home in England over the victory caused it to be overlooked. No act could have done more to win the sailors’ hearts that on most occasions received nothing. The men had affectionately nicknamed Vernon Old Grog on account of the old grogram cloak (a rough hewn fabric of mohair and silk) that he often wore when the weather was bad. In Vernon’s time, the men received one-half pint of rum a day which they drank neat, that is without water. Thus there was a lot of drunkenness and disobedience on board for which many of the men were brutally disciplined. He was much concerned with what he called, “the swinish vice of drunkenness”. He believed that if the rum was diluted with water that its effects on the senses would be reduced – even though the men were to receive the same amount of rum. Thus Admiral Vernon issued his infamous Order to Captains No. 349 on August 21, 1740.
His order refers to the “unanimous opinion of both Captains and Surgeons that the pernicious custom of the seaman drinking their allowance of rum in drams, and often at once, is attended with many fatal effects to their morals as well as their health ... besides the ill consequences of stupifying [sic] their rational qualities ... You are hereby required and directed ... that the respective daily allowance ... be every day mixed with the proportion of a quart of water to a half pint of rum, to be mixed in a scuttled butt kept for that purpose, and to be done upon the deck, and in the presence of the Lieutenant of the Watch who is to take particular care to see that the men are not defrauded in having their full allowance of rum... and let those that are good husbanders receive extra lime juice and sugar that it be made more palatable to them.” The men were incensed that he should have ordered that their rum be diluted, and named it ontemptuously grog from the name they had given him. Grog is essentially a diluted rum mixture, with two parts water and one part Pusser’s Rum. “Vernon’s Orders” encouraged the addition of sugar and limes to the grog mixture - which is the present day Pusser’s Rum recipe for grog. Thus real grog is Pusser’s Rum with water, lime juice and brown cane sugar. Unwittingly, Vernon had created the world’s first cocktail - grog
island of the month - British Virgin Islands
51
PUSSER’S® PAINKILLER THE TRUE STORY! The infamous Pusser’s Painkiller® had its start at the six-seat Soggy Dollar Bar on a long stretch of white sand beach at White Bay on the island of Jost Van Dyke in the British Virgin Islands. There’s no dock, so the usual way in is to swim. Of course, your dollars get wet - hence the name: Soggy Dollar Bar. When all this started, the bar with its four adjoining cottages was owned by an English lady, Daphne Henderson. Boaters, including Pusser’s founder Charles Tobias, came from all around to sample her tasty Pusser’s Painkiller® for which she’d become locally famous. The fact that Tobias had gone to Great Britain’s Royal Navy and gotten permission to commercialize the rum in 1980 made him more curious about this deliciously concocted recipe made with Pusser’s Rum. Daphne Henderson and Charles Tobias became good friends, but in spite of their friendship, and no matter how hard he tried, she refused to divulge her secret recipe for the Pusser’s Painkiller®. Two years passed, then late one Sunday afternoon at the conclusion of a long session of Painkilling, Tobias somehow managed to get one of her concoctions back through the surf and over the gunwale into his boat, and ultimately into his kitchen on Tortola where he lives. There he went to work, trying to match her flavor as closely as possible with his own recipe which he finally worked out to be “4-1-1” ratio - four parts pineapple, one part cream of coconut and one part orange juice - adding Pusser’s Rum to suit. The following Sunday, Tobias returned to the Soggy Dollar Bar for another afternoon of West Indian food, Painkillers and swimming. Shaking the water off after his swim ashore, Tobias announced to Daphne Henderson that I’d finally broken her secret, “At last, Daphne, I have the Painkiller® recipe which I promise to not divulge to anyone if you tell me that I’m right,” he said. “If you’ve got it, what do you need anything from me for?” she replied smiling as she continued to josh Tobias about him not being able to come even close. “Wait and see,” he told her, and in a few minutes, he mixed one of his and started to taste it against hers. Tobias discerned a slight difference, but thought his mixture better, not quite so sweet as hers, and told her so. Understandably, she insisted that hers was better and challenged him to a contest. Tobias accepted, and the bet was on for $100. There were about ten patrons around the bar. Tobias ordered two rounds: one that Daphne made, and one that he made to his recipe. They marked the cups and proceeded to test. Tobias’s recipe won 10 out of 10 taste-tests! They preferred his version to hers. She humorously insisted that somehow Tobias paid everybody off to win. Of course, he hadn’t, and vehemently denied her charges. Tobias took payment on the bet in the form of 40 Painkillers which the crowd all drank to celebrate the occasion.
pusser’s
Soon after, Tobias started promoting the Pusser’s Painkiller® in the two Pusser’s bars he had at that time on Tortola. But he always gives Daphne Henderson credit with a by-line in Pusser’s printed media: AS INSPIRED BY DAPHNE AT THE SOGGY DOLLAR BAR AT WHITE BAY ON JOST VAN DYKE. From this modest beginning, the fame of the Pusser’s Painkiller® has spread throughout the boating and sailing communities of the Caribbean and the U.S., and is probably the most popular mixed rum drink amongst sailors today in the West Indies. And it continues to spread throughout many other parts of the world. Thanks to Daphne Henderson! ...the inspiration behind the Pusser’s Painkiller®.
PUSSER’S PAINKILLER® RECIPE The Painkiller® is a blend of Pusser’s Rum with 4 parts pineapple juice, 1 part cream of coconut and 1 part orange juice served over the rocks with a generous amount of fresh nutmeg on top. You have a choice of numbers 2, 3 or 4, which designate the amount of Pusser’s Rum!
s!
Cheer
* Painkiller #2 ... 2 parts Pusser’s Rum * Painkiller #3 ... 3 parts Pusser’s Rum * Painkiller #4 ... 4 parts Pusser’s Rum
Snorkeling & Diving 54 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
A necklace of lush islands rising from the Technicolor tides of the Caribbean Sea, the British Virgin Islands offers some of the most remarkable snorkelling and diving in the world, from mysterious caves in the south to breathtaking grottoes in the east. With more than 60 islands in the archipelago, including the main islands of Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Jost Van Dyke and Anegada, the BVI boasts a biodiversity of marine life rivalled only by the deep of the Amazon Rainforest.
snorkeling and diving
56 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
From the largest island of Tortola creating the backbone of the Sir Frances Drake Channel and Virgin Gorda forming the eastern edge, to the smaller islands of Norman, Peter and Cooper speckling the south and Anegada dangling in the north, the cool waters that surround the islands of the BVI ensure that fish remain year-round rather than migrating. Another factor contributing to the abundance of fish is plentiful food supplies found in the form of baitfish with some schools measuring a quarter of a kilometre wide by a quarter of a kilometre long and eight meters deep. So rich, Sperm whales migrating during mating season have even been known to make a pit stop to feast on the dense schools.
58 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Exotic marine life resides at The Indians -- a cluster of four rocks rising 15 meters above the surface of the sea, situated just off the northern shores of Norman Island. While the view looking up at the towering formations is overwhelming with barren appearance and cliff-like slopes, the true treasure of this area is found looking down. Drifting along the coral-encrusted rock formations, the highly evolved parrotfish is both seen and heard as it uses its beak to chip away at the living coral. Here, marine life reciprocates curiosity, such as the violet Creole wrasse that seemingly appear from nowhere to envelope snorkellers and then quickly dash off again.
snorkeling and diving
60 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
At Cooper Island in Manchioneel Bay, beds of sea grass hide little green turtles, while graceful sting and eagle rays graze above the blades. Nearby, a large Queen Conch bed is home to the nearly foot-long snails, buried deeply during the day, but awake at night to feed on the sea grass. At Cistern Pointe, photogenic ledges attract spectators with bright corals in rod and fan form.
Regattas 62 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival The BVI Spring Regatta is the one Caribbean Regatta that has something for everyone who attends. Whether you race, cruise, practice or just come to party, we have it all! Race & Cruise your way through the BVI The weeklong BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival takes you throughout the beautiful British Virgin Islands. Starting at Nanny Cay the Sailing Festival races up the Sir Francis Drake Channel to the renown Bitter End Yacht Club. After the warm up, the BVI Spring Regatta kicks off three days of some of the best racing in the Caribbean. Only the best survive to take home the Gold and the Glory, along with great stories and experiences that keeps sailors coming back year after year. You can participate in the entire seven day BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival, just the four-day Festival, or the three-day Regatta. With a huge choice of shore side accommodations and activities there’s no need to leave your loved ones at home.
BVI Spring Regatta
PO Box 281, Nanny Cay Marina, Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands, VG1110 info@bvispringregatta.org | 284-541-6732
Back in 1974, Foxy and some friends decided wooden boats should have a chance to race. The first year there were only seven boats, but as word traveled, sailors from all over the seven seas flocked to participate. As the wooden boat era is slowly diminishing, Foxy and friends have decided to keep the legacy going; so they are revising the rules to allow some of the first fiberglass boats to compete in a Classic Race. Fiberglass boats over thirty years old qualify. This Classic Race should be, no pun on words, a “classic.�
64 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Foxy’s Wooden Boat Regatta A real regatta means old boats, like they used to make ’em. Foxy’s and the West End Yacht Club have been doing this gig for well over 30 years — 38 to be exact. And this year, they’ve added a new Classic Race for fiberglass boats over thirty years old.
BIRAS CREEK R
66 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
E
S
O
R
T
Clear Your Schedule. Fill Your Soul. You follow the wisp of a cloud across the horizon as a warm breeze carries away all other concerns. Waves pulse. Birds cry. Sunlight sifts through palm leaves and dapples the sand around your toes.
Welcome to the moment you imagined.
Prestige 68 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Biras Creek is a member of the Relais & Chateaux hotel group, a highly-coveted membership bestowed only on the most outstanding inns, hotels, resorts, and restaurants in the world.
Endless Horizons
Fill your days with adventure and exhilaration, or simple stillness.
Awards for the BVI’s
72 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Virgin Gorda Voted
Second Place
“World’s Best Island Awards: The Caribbean, Bermuda and the Bahamas” Travel + Leisure, 2006
“North Sound of Virgin Gorda, one of the most unspoiled and secluded deep-water harbours in the Caribbean.� - The New York Times
“Couples flock to Guana Island for privacy. Trails crisscross to the island to a salt pond, where flamingos live peacefully, donkeys graze, and birds and snorkelers glide over coral reefs.” Condé Nast Traveller
76 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
awards and distinctions
“Necker Island is hallowed ground of lovers of natural beauty.� - Sports Illustrated
awards and distinctions
“The hues of the British Virgin Islands’ waters are not too flamboyant or garish. Like the British expats themselves, they are refined and understated. Over the reefs, the water glows a leaf green, and rimming the islands it shimmers a seemly teal.” - Islands
80 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
“Quiet anchorages, hidden beaches, and undeveloped shorelines like those of Virgin Gorda’s Savannah Bay, make the BVI an ideal sailing ground.” - Islands
awards and distinctions
“This dramatic destination is perfect for travellers who want great topside sights, fewer crowds and a variety of snorkelling experiences.� Caribbean Travel & Life
82 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
84 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Rosewood Little Dix Bay sits on a crescent-shaped bay on the island of Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands. Founded in 1964 by Laurance S. Rockefeller, the resort remains true to its founder’s vision of natural harmony and earth in balance while offering an escape from the ordinary. Elegantly appointed accommodations blend unobtrusively into the surrounding landscape and are located steps from the beach. Guests can enjoy a wide array of activities such as diving, snorkeling, watersports and hiking. World-class amenities, including three distinctive dining venues, Sense, A Rosewood Spa®, tennis, fitness facility and children’s center, complete the experience.
The B.V.I. climate is semi-tropical and one of the healthiest in the world. Average temperatures hover around 80째 Fahrenheit and constant easterly breezes guarantee cool nights year-round. There is no clearly defined wet or dry season and therefore, weather conditions are splendid any month of the year.
86 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
little dix bay
The resort features 100 spacious guest accommodations that seem to “grow� out of the landscape. Most are shaded by native sea grape and palm trees, ensuring ultimate privacy. Each guest room has an outdoor patio or terrace on which to enjoy the idyllic setting of Virgin Gorda and its gentle tradewinds. Bathrooms feature double vanities and rain showers while some also have soaking tubs. Half of the guestrooms are outfitted with new outdoor garden showers.
88 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
little dix bay spa
90 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Sense, A Rosewood Spa速 An idyllic retreat perched high on a bluff overlooking the Caribbean Sea.
little dix bay spa
92 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Sense, A Rosewood Spa® offers the world’s finest beauty and recuperative treatments. Sense’s dramatic setting is unparalleled, with 360° views and stone footpaths that meander through lush tropical gardens leading to nine treatment cottages, including a couple’s suite. The relaxation area features a two-tiered infinity pool with neighboring Jacuzzi and vistas of sailboats floating on the horizon. An outdoor Yoga platform is also located at Sense with 25-mile views of the seascape and Rosewood Little Dix Bay.
Welcome to...
THE
BITTER END
96 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
The Bitter End Yacht Club, an island outpost known for its historical charm and exclusivity, is accessible only by sea and has been luring ocean-lovers from across the globe for more than 30 years.
Located on the protected waters of North Sound on the lesser-known island of Virgin Gorda (British Virgin Islands), the lush, beachfront resort is a sailing and water sports mecca, thanks to its near perfect year-round sailing conditions, eternal sunshine and crystal-blue waters. Known for its casual, safe, communal atmosphere and robust activity programs, Bitter End is a favorite destination for couples, families and groups, many of whom return year-after-year.
98 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
SABA ROCK
100 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Saba Rock Resort is an exceptional property located in one of the most beautiful places on earth. Instantly, when stepping off the plane and into the boat, ferrying you to Saba Rock, you enter into another world.
saba rock
102 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
Saba Rock is among the cluster of serene yet striking islands that form the North Sound of Virgin Gorda, in the British Virgin Islands. The North Sound is a paradise, comprised of a unique community, with vast anchorages for charterers as well as other activities. These well-protected waters consist of Richard Branson’s exclusive two private islands Necker and Moskito, Prickly Pear Island; declared national park since 1988, and the private Island of Eustatia with the surrounding pristine waters of Eustatia Reef; a snorkeler’s paradise.
SABA ROCK...for a truly unique dining experience!
104 island of the month - British Virgin Islands
The Restaurant & Bar at Saba Rock features a relaxed waterfront setting with a magnificent view of the North Sound. You will be dining directly above the water while enjoying the sounds of gentle lapping waves beneath your feet. Keep your eyes open for Stingrays and turtles popping out by your table! At the Saba Rock restaurant, our goal is to provide fresh and flavorful food at a great value. Our menus are an unparalleled blend of traditional favorites infused with a Caribbean twist, there’s something to satisfy every palate. We also offer a special kid’s menu for all the little pirates aboard your ship! Our bar opens daily at 11 am and the restaurant opens for lunch at 12pm. Throughout the day enjoy our Pub Menu that features a variety of satisfying island bites, all served with our famously addicting seasoned French fries! Some of our guests favorites include our Mahi Tacos, Flame Broiled Burgers, Caribbean Jerk Chicken Wrap, Panko-breaded Fish & Chips, & our cool, crisp Wedge Salad with our homemade buttermilk bleu cheese dressing!
This publication is brought to you courtesy of
OCTOBER 2012 TAMPA EDITION
ISLAND OF THE MONTH