Another Side of Paradise.

Exploring the Lau Group and Kadavu Island with Captain Cook Cruises

By Scott Lee

Captain Cook Cruises is one of Fiji's most well-respected tour companies. Since the 1990s, they have been offering sunset cruises, day trips, and multi-day trips to some of Fiji's most beautiful destinations. Islandtime senior writer Scott Lee joined a 7-day cruise to the remote Lau Group and Kadavu Island.

I've been fortunate enough to visit Fiji many times and have enjoyed some spectacular places, but the Lau group of islands has stubbornly remained on my bucket list.

Known to international yachties as one of the best cruising destinations in the South Pacific, the Lau group covers 44,000 square miles of ocean, and only 30 of its 57 islands are inhabited. If you don't own a half-million-dollar yacht, a Captain Cook Cruise small ship expedition is the only way to get there.

Setting Sail

Check-in at Denarau Marina is at 10 am, and the boat Reef Endeavour departs at noon. We arrived early, and the Captain Cook Cruises check-in staff offered us a discount voucher for the nearby Sails Restaurant. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast until the crew informed us it was time to board.

After a detailed safety briefing, an induction to the vessel, and an introduction to the crew, we set sail. Our first stop was Tivua Island, Captain Cook Cruises' private island about two hours north of Denarau.

The day trippers had all gone home, so we had the island to ourselves for the afternoon, where we swam and paddleboarded in the sheltered waters. After a relaxing afternoon, it was back on board for cocktails and canapés before a magnificent smorgasbord dinner and an official welcome. This set the standard for the cruise – beautiful fresh food, relaxed company, and entertainment into the evening.

It's a long way to the Lau group, and the distances between some of the islands are nearly as far. However, Captain Cook Cruises has planned the itinerary so that most of the travel is done at night – a kind of "wake up and you're there" experience.

Makogai Magic

We woke up at Makogai Island, about halfway to the northern Lau Group. After an early morning swim and a hearty breakfast, we were welcomed ashore at Makogai village just in time for their Sunday church service. And what a rousing service it was. The men, dressed in white shirts and dress sulu’s, the women in their brightly coloured dresses, and the children in their Sunday best, sang hymns and gospel songs with Pentecostal fervour. Their powerful harmonious voices filled the village green and echoed along the beach.

This uplifting service was contrasted with a rather sombre half-hour walk to the leper colony ruins. From 1911 to 1969, the colony was run by Catholic nuns, and many of the old buildings, including the movie theatre, still remain. Over 4,500 patients were treated, and 1,241 souls are buried in the cemetery, including Mother Mary, who ran the facility for 34 years.

After the walk, we enjoyed a swim and snorkelling to view the giant clams that are being bred for repopulation around Fiji. The afternoon was spent on a beautiful beach, swimming, kayaking, and snorkelling.

Qilaqila. Fiji’s Bay of Islands

After steaming overnight, we arrived at Qilaqila, known as Fiji's Bay of Islands. From the tenders, we explored the labyrinth of small mushroom-shaped islands, their bases eroded by the constant motion of the water. In some places, we could barely fit between the islands as we played hide and seek with the other tenders. It was a spectacularly beautiful sight, unlike anything I had seen before.

In the afternoon, we ventured back into the water for a snorkel and a swim into the limestone caves. These islands are riddled with caves, and ours had an easy entry at water level before opening into a cave the size of a small room. Sunlight streamed through the shafts from above, and the walls were stained pink, green, purple, and black as water leached through the limestone and vegetation. A small colony of bats screeched their obvious unhappiness at our intrusion.

Cocktails on the aft deck at sunset were followed by an à la carte dinner at the captain's table. We realised that we had settled into the rhythm of ship life and were enjoying the company of our newfound friends.

Fantastic Falaga

We travelled south during the night and woke up at the beautiful island of Falaga— or should I say the hundred islands and spectacular lagoon that make up Falaga.

These islands are some of the most remote in the world and, surprisingly, closer to Tonga than mainland Fiji. Throughout history, there has always been a strong Tongan influence (they even attempted to take over at one point), which can be seen in the bure design, the large stature of many inhabitants, and the fact that some villagers speak Tongan.

Interestingly, the villagers often travel by longboat to Tonga for supplies rather than waiting weeks for the only freighter.

As impressed as we were by Qilaqila, Falaga surpassed our expectations. A string of islands and rocks enclose an 8km long and 4km wide lagoon. The lagoon, about 3 meters deep, is flawless. The white sand bottom extends to the islands beyond, creating a surreal turquoise perfection throughout the entire area.

The small mushroom-shaped rocks surrounding the lagoon were completely covered in fan palms, giving the whole scene a Jurassic Park feel. It was definitely one of the most beautiful vistas I have ever seen—a true balm for the soul.

Village life on Vuaqava Island

On Day 5, we reached Vuaqava Island—another slice of perfection with its white sand, crystal-clear water, and coconut palms. We chose to swim and paddleboard, while half of the passengers set off on a hike to an inland saltwater lake. Villagers had set up rudimentary stalls on the beach, showcasing their specialty craft of wood-carved bowls with shell inlay, woven baskets, and carry bags. They also offered freshly cut coconuts.

We were invited to the village at Kabara Island that afternoon. Before disembarking, the ship's entertainer, who also acted as a cultural guide, educated us on village protocol and the importance of the sevusevu ceremony.

Captain Cook Cruises is extremely mindful when it comes to showing respect wherever they visit. Fijians take great pride in their culture, and long-term relationships depend on this mutual respect.

After completing the sevusevu, we were free to wander the village, the schoolhouse, and the basic medical center. It was fascinating to spend time in the village and have extensive conversations with the elders. Life on these remote islands is tough, but the sense of family and community is strong. They lead a basic yet content existence that revolves around fishing and subsistence farming.

That night, we were scheduled to partake in a lovo feast in the village, but rain (the only rain we encountered during the trip) prevented that. Instead, the villagers brought the entire earth-cooked feast to the Reef Endeavour, and we enjoyed the feast, a kava ceremony, and meke (song and dance) on the boat. I don't know who had more fun, the guests or the villagers — it was an enjoyable night for everyone involved!

Farewelling Lau at Totoya Island

Our final day in the Lau Group took us to Totoya Island. We were welcomed ashore by the village elders and escorted to the village school, where the children had prepared a concert for us. While the older children attend boarding school in Suva, the younger ones put on a spirited show, with parents watching through the louvre windows with pride.

Afterward, as the children divided up the school supplies donated by the passengers, I joined the menfolk under a large tarpaulin for an impromptu kava session. As we passed the bowl around in the time-honoured tradition, our conversations ranged from fishing to the weather, from the history of the islands to the concerns of sending their children to boarding school in Suva and the dangers of living in a large city. It was a very pleasant two hours, and their generosity of spirit and kava was overwhelming. I was the last to return to the boat, and I slept until dinner.

Untouched Kadavu

Our final full day was spent at Kadavu, the third largest island in the Fiji group. Known as "little New Zealand" because of its southern location, Kadavu stands out for its breathtaking views and endemic biodiversity, including beautiful birdlife.

It still retains 75% of its original rainforest, and due to its climate, it is known for producing the sweetest mangos, the largest dalo (taro), and the strongest kava. We had a VIP onboard, so the sevusevu presentation took on a special meaning, with the gifting of the actual kava plant instead of the usual swapping of roots. This was highly unusual and demonstrated the reverence accorded to this person. The celebration that followed was a sight to behold—a joyful celebration of life. Adorned with paper hats, Christmas tinsel, flowers, woven palm leaves, and colourful sulus, they sang, clapped, danced, and laughed. There was even an exhibitionist who took up a position at the front and swayed his snake-like hips to the delight of everyone present.

The Final Day

Denerau was bustling when we arrived at 7 am. It was time to pack, have a final breakfast, and bid our farewells. Farewells are usually sombre occasions, filled with hugs, kisses, promises of future reunions, and tears. But not with Captain Cook Cruises! Twenty staff members had gathered on the pool deck, and accompanied by a guitar and lailai drum, they belted out several Fijian classics. With perfect harmony, clapping, and cheers, it felt more like a party than a farewell. Everyone disembarked feeling elated, relaxed, and happy. What a fantastic trip it had been.

Cruise Highlights

Food glorious food

The food was excellent! Sumptuous smorgasbords, enticing à la carte options, and themed nights provided plenty of variety. The lunch smorgasbord was particularly impressive, featuring smoked salmon, king prawns, roast meats, and a wide selection of salads.

Additionally, there were gluten-free and vegetarian options, ensuring there were plenty of healthy choices. The fresh fruit was outstanding, and I noticed bags of fruit being brought aboard after some of the village visits. Pawpaw (the incredibly sweet, red variety), watermelon, perfectly ripe pineapple, passionfruit, oranges, and bananas adorned the table at every meal.

During one shore visit, I purchased two coconut crabs from the villagers. That night, the chef prepared the crabs with several sauces, and we enjoyed a magnificent meal with a glass of chardonnay on the aft deck at sunset – pure magic! There were always plenty of freshly baked sweet treats for morning and afternoon teas, as well as savoury canapés to accompany pre-dinner drinks, all prepared by the on-board pastry chef. For early risers, the barista made excellent coffee starting from 7:30 each morning.

Beyond Bula

Fijians are renowned for their hospitality. Their friendly disposition, happy nature, outgoing personalities, and beaming smiles make them the perfect hosts. As one of the larger tourism operators in Fiji, Captain Cook Cruises has the privilege of choosing the best staff, and it shows.

The crew members are obviously selected and trained to bring out the best in each individual. Captain Cook Cruises offers a cadet program to train new staff, and all hospitality staff are graduates of the University of the South Pacific hospitality course. Some of the crew members were from the remote islands we visited, and their pride was evident as they showed us around their villages, lagoons, and islands.

Fellow guests

One of the truly great aspects of travelling on a cruise ship is meeting the other guests. We had 60 guests on board, ranging in age from 6 to 86 years old. They were individuals, families, and groups escaping from New Zealand, Australia, the United States, the United Kingdom, and Thailand. The composition of guests can vary greatly depending on holidays and the ebb and flow of international markets.

What was particularly interesting was that about half of the guests were repeat Captain Cook Cruises clients, with several having multiple cruises to multiple destinations under their belts. One lady had done 22 trips with Captain Cook Cruises, including 6 to the Lau Group!

There was a common theme among our shipmates, and that was the desire to cruise on smaller ships like Captain Cook Cruises, enabling everyone to have more quality and relaxed experiences – ships that are intimate enough to foster connections yet large enough to provide safety and comfort.

Easy embarking/disembarking

Several times each day, the tenders needed to be unloaded as guests embarked on various activities. Captain Cook Cruises has mastered the art of getting 100 passengers on and off with ease and safety.

The floating tenders are secured across the back of the boat, and then a large hydraulic lift raises the tender out of the water to deck height, allowing guests to simply step off onto the mother ship. The same process occurs in reverse during disembarkation, and once ashore, a ramp is lowered to the beach. Even elderly and less mobile guests found it very easy, and there were always a couple of crew members available to assist.

Captain Peter Martin

Captain Peter Martin embodies the image of a ship's captain with his full head of sandy grey hair, seaman's gait, ready smile, and intelligent green eyes. His affable nature and relaxed professionalism make him respected and popular among the crew.

A proud 24-year veteran of the Royal Australian Navy, where he reached the rank of commander, he has more recently captained charters to the Kimberley region of Western Australia on the Caledonia Sky until its recent purchase by Captain Cook Cruises.

Captain Martin grew up around Alice Springs, and his love and appreciation for indigenous cultures serve him well in his career. His love for Fiji and his thirst for knowledge were evident as he personally attended every sevusevu presentation at every village, forging long-term relationships for the company. Captain Martin holds a doctorate in Maritime Affairs and is often invited to lecture on cruise ships.

Blue heaven

With crystal-clear waters, colourful corals, and abundant marine life, the diving and snorkelling experiences were superb. Sheltered sites were carefully chosen, and the accompanying tenders had two crew members on board and two in the water. Boarding the tender was easy, even in deep water.

Divers were well taken care of, with a dive instructor, two dive masters, and a marine biologist on board. All diving gear was brand new, and there was a pool available for refresher courses or introductory SCUBA sessions.

The marine biologist was always available to discuss marine life, answer questions, and view photographs. He also gave daily talks on marine environments and conservation. One couple managed to do 10 dives during our cruise, and they were adamant that these were the best dives they had ever experienced!

Pampering at sea!

It wouldn’t be a luxury cruise without a bit of pampering.

All passengers are offered a complimentary foot massage, then it’s a matter of how much indulgence you can handle. The Senikai Day spa offers every option imaginable to spoil you. Facials, pedicures, manicures, therapeutic and relaxing massages, and couples romance packages.

Catherine organised a five treatments spa indulgence package which could be used at any time throughout the cruise. After an early morning ocean swim and breakfast of fresh fruit, she’d be off to the spa. Blissfully relaxed and glowing with health, she was ready for the days’ activities, and it was only 9am!

The Kava ceremony

Kava is a slightly intoxicating drink enjoyed throughout the South Pacific, made from the dried roots of the yaqona plant. Every important occasion begins with the traditional kava ceremony. Steeped in meaning and guided by protocol, the ritual of pounding the roots and straining the liquid is performed by the young men of the village, while everyone looks on.

Once the brew is considered ready, a bowl of the bitter-tasting liquid is passed to the chief (or the most senior host present), and each participant empties the bowl when their turn comes up. It's a joyous gathering, a celebration of life, an opportunity to give thanks, and a chance to establish connections and strengthen relationships.

The kava ceremony often includes sevusevu – the presentation of gifts, usually kava roots – and provides an opportunity for the hosts to show respect to the visitors and vice versa.

Many Fijians are skilled orators, and they never miss a chance to showcase their abilities. Long-winded speeches, accompanied by hollow hand clapping, laughter, and cries of "Bula" (as everyone agrees with the speaker's point), are the norm. While the kava and sevusevu ceremonies are performed daily throughout the islands, they seem to hold extra significance on these remote islands. This is their culture, a living culture that has been enjoyed and celebrated for hundreds of years.

New ship coming - MS Caledonia Sky

Bigger, faster, and offering an even higher standard of luxury, Captain Cook Cruises' new boat, Caledonia Sky, will be put into service in November 2023. Refurbished in 2018, the Caledonia Sky measures 90 meters in length, cruises at 12 knots, and will have 85 crew members, accommodating up to 110 guests.

This vessel will enable Captain Cook Cruises to offer high-end cruise experiences never seen before in Fiji. It will also open up more remote destinations, such as the outer islands of Tonga and Samoa. The marketing team is already working on one-way destination cruises between Samoa, Tonga, and Fiji, and there is even a whale migration expedition that offers the opportunity to swim with the whales in Tonga.

In a nutshell

Authentic culture - This is the real deal.

Remote – Only a select few have the opportunity to visit.

Raw – Stunning scenery in its natural state.

Active – Swim, snorkel, kayak, paddleboard, dive, explore, hike.

Unplug – Relax and indulge in doing nothing but eat, drink, sleep, and repeat.

Variety – Wake up each day at a new destination.

Easy – Unpack once, and everything else is taken care of for you. Totally safe – Rest assured, your safety is ensured throughout the journey.