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news 2002

SCHOOL OF ITALIAN REGIONAL COOKING Jesi • Italy

Slow Food Master Italian Cooking News, no. 1, year I, April 2002

summary

Master Italian Cooking News MAGAZINE OF THE ISTITUTO SUPERIORE DI GASTRONOMIA Editorial Director Gianfranco Mancini Editorial Staff Paolo Bellini, Angelo Concas, Alberto Fabbri, Luca Fabbri, Carlo Gazzarrini, Stefania Cavallini, Raffaele Grilli, Piergiorgio Oliveti, Francesco Pensovecchio, Federico Piemonte, Pasquale Porcelli, Vito Puglia, Gilberto Venturini. Editorial Co-ordination Arduino Tassi Translations Jennifer Pierssene Tamara Helenson Graphics and page layout GEI Gruppo Editoriale Informazione Elisabetta Carletti Printing Arti Grafiche Jesine - Jesi Advertising and administration Associazione Ital. Cook. via F. Conti n. 5 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 60035 JESI (AN) Italy Tel./Fax ++39.0731.56400 Web: www.italcook.it E.mail: info@italcook.it Recorded in the Tribunal of Ancona no. 433/02, 22.02.2002 Editor-in-chief: Dino Mogianesi

ASSOCIAZIONE ITAL.COOK. Founded by Slow Food and the Town Council of Jesi Board of Directors Nicola Silveri (chairman) Giovanni Mancia, Simona Romagnoli (directors).

Italian cuisine, territorial cuisine Gianfranco Mancini

Our organisation Nicola Silveri

Programma / programme / programm

Seafood and landfood cooking Gianfranco Mancini

A local variety of dishes Carlo Gazzarrini

Sicilian cooking... centuries of history Francesco Pensovecchio, Pasquale Buffa

A rich region among pork and tortellini Alberto Fabbri

A Mediterranean region Pasquale Porcelli

A wine and food walk into the heart of Sardinia Angelo Concas, Renato Troffa

Land of borders Federico Piemonte

A journey into Campania Felix Vito Puglia

Jesi royal town Loretta Mozzoni

An idea of the Marche Loretta Mozzoni

Reviser Board Giuliano Cerioni (chairman) Sergio Moretti, Sabrina Rotatori (members).

Cover: Natura morta di cipolle e fiori, Giovanna Garzoni (Ascoli Piceno, 1600-1670)

Italian cuisine, territorial cuisine Everywhere, Italian cuisine seems to be experiencing a ‘new renaissance’, a world-wide renewal of interest. In the gastronomic capitals, from New York to Sydney and from Tokyo to Los Angeles, Mediterranean cooking is growing in popularity and we, in conjunction with the ‘Istituto Superiore di Gastronomia’, wish to support those of you, all over the world, who want to follow Italian cuisine. The Master Italian Cooking course offers all chefs the opportunity of broadening their understanding of our gastronomic traditions. Over the last 10 years, the philosophy and activities of the Slow Food movement have significantly influenced culinary culture and practice, both within Italy and internationally. The teaching programme of this course is not a general one, nor is it limited to commonly known

dishes, or dedicated to the extravagance of a single chef. In our school, which is the only one of its kind in Italy, we teach “territorial cuisine”, taking dishes region by region, from north to south, and from the inland areas to the coast. All over the world, chefs of Italian cuisine can here discover the historical roots of our food traditions, and understand the best of a gastronomy that has been handed down over the centuries, and still exists today. Italian cooking boasts thousands of dishes which differ from region to region. Here, we can offer professional chefs variety, carefully detailed teaching, and very demanding work. We look forward to working together.

The Manager Gianfranco Mancini

Our organisation The Jesi Istituto Superiore di Gastronomia is an Italian institution which addresses all the countries of the world. It has its headquarters in the Marche, a central region of Italy which is easy to reach by both air (Raffaello Sanzio Airport, Ancona-Falconara) and by rail (stations at Ancona and Jesi). The aim of the Institute is to teach Italian regional cuisine professionally, through the Slow Food Master Italian Cooking course, and organisation is essential. The equipment we use is extremely modern, with electronic controls, and air-conditioned working areas, all carefully respecting the hygiene and sanitary norms, provided by the best specialised Italian companies. The organisation of the teaching is based on the co-directors of the Italian regions, who have the following duties: to choose the best chef teachers, who are experts in the region’s cuisine, and make them available to the Institute, to provide the Institute with the raw materials necessary for an authentic teaching of the flavours of the dishes that are to be prepared, and to coordinate the students’ weekend trips and

tours to the reference regions. This organisational structure is directed by the central management at Jesi. It is in this way, with this careful organisation, that we would wish to provide our students with professional teaching, that is authentic, and that respects the Italian traditions and cooking techniques that, over the centuries, have enriched culinary flavours for which our country is so well known. The Chairman Nicola Silveri

programma

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1 I corsi sono riservati a cuochi professionisti che operano all’estero e vogliono acquisire una conoscenza approfondita della cucina italiana. Ci rivolgiamo in particolare a cuochi che abbiano già terminato il loro curriculum scolastico o che abbiano lavorato per qualche tempo accanto ad altri chef di cucina. Noi desideriamo dare una conoscenza ampia e rigorosa, con metodo organico e preciso a coloro che desiderano fare cucina italiana nel mondo in modo professionale. Pertanto chi desidera partecipare al nostro Master deve già conoscere le fondamentali tecniche di lavoro in cucina. 2 I corsi si svolgono presso la sede dell’Istituto, nel Palazzo Balleani, a Jesi, cittadina di 40.000 abitanti, nelle Marche, nell’Italia Centrale. I corsi hanno una durata di dieci settimane. Tutti coloro che frequenteranno il Master avranno la possibilità di continuare la loro esperienza per alcuni mesi o un anno presso i ristoranti della catena Slow Food in tutt’Italia, da nord a sud, specializzandosi sia in carne che pesce, nelle Regioni che ciascuno preferisce. 3 Ogni settimana viene presentata, studiata ed elaborata la cucina di una Regione d’Italia. Alla fine del corso ogni professionista conoscerà la cucina italiana nelle più elevate espressioni regionali: dalla cucina tradizionale e contadina della Toscana al pesce dell’Adriatico, dai formaggi del Piemonte ai tortellini dell’Emilia Romagna, dalle verdure della Puglia ai dolci della Sicilia, dalla cucina delle valli alpine a quella mediterranea. L’Italia è un mosaico infinito di storie e di prodotti, di piatti e di tradizione, di profumi e di sapori in ogni terra. Da noi per ogni festa c’è un piatto e per ogni piatto c’è una festa! 4 Un giorno a settimana, di preferenza il lunedì, è dedicato a corsi brevi, monotematici con degustazione di vino, olio di oliva, pasta, formaggi, salumi tipici e tradizionali selezionati tra i migliori produttori di tutto il territorio nazionale. Nel tempo libero ciascun professionista avrà la possibilità di approfon-

1 The courses are designed for professional cooks working outside Italy who wish to widen and improve their knowledge of Italian cuisine. In particular we are addressing cooks who have completed their training and have worked alongside established chefs for some time. Our aim is to provide a wide-ranging frame of reference with plenty of in-depth detail that will enable cooks to interpret Italian cuisine to the highest standards throughout the world. Those wishing to take this Master's should thus be familiar with basic culinary techniques. 2 The courses are held at the Institute, which is located in Palazzo Balleani in Jesi, a city of 40,000 inhabitants in the central Italian region of the Marche. Each course lasts for ten weeks, and those taking part will all be able to further their experience by working for a few months or even a year with restaurants associated with Slow Food throughout Italy. They will thus come into direct contact with restaurateurs specialized in meat or fish dishes, from North to South, comprising a whole range of particular regional specialties. 3 Every week the cuisine of a particular Region of Italy will be the object of a special focus, such that by the end the cooks attending the course will be familiar with Italian cuisine in its foremost regional expressions: from the traditional rural dishes of Tuscany to the fish preparations of the Adriatic; from the cheeses of Piedmont to the tortellini of the Emilia Romagna; from the vegetable dishes of Puglia to the sweetmeats of Sicily; from the cuisine of the Alpine valleys to that of the Mediterranean coast. Italy is a complex mosaic of history and products, dishes and traditions, scents and savors. Every "festa" is indeed a feast, which means a particular dish and a celebration of life. 4 One day a week, preferably Monday, will be devoted to particular subjects with tastings of wine, olive oil, pasta, cheese and cured meats selected from the country's foremost producers. During their free time, the participants will have access to the Institute Library,

1 Die Kurse sind für Berufs-Köche reserviert, welche ausserhalb ltaliens tätig sind und sich eine vertiefte Kenntnis der italienischen Küche aneignen möchten. Wir wenden uns vor allem an Köche, die ihre Berufsausbildung abgeschlossen haben oder welche bereits seit einiger Zeit mit guten Küchenchefs zusammengearbeitet haben. Unser Ziel ist es, methodische und detaillierte Kenntnisse zu übermitteln, damit man die italienische Küche professionell überall auf der Welt anwenden kann. Voraussetzungen für den Master- Titel sind bereits vorhandene, vertiefte Grundtechnik der Küchenarbeit. 2 Die Kurse werden im Sitz des Institutes, Palazzo Balleani, in Jesi, einer Stadt mit 40.000 Einwohnern in der Region Marken in Mittelitalien, abgehalten. Die Kurse dauern jeweils 10 Wochen. Die Teilnehmer an diesem Master-Kurs haben die Möglichkeit, nachträglich ihre erworbenen Kenntnisse für einige Monate oder einem Jahr in verschiedenen Restaurants in ganz ltalien, welche der Slow-Food Kette angehören, zu vertiefen. Man kann sich die Region von Nord zu Süd aussuchen, um sich entweder in Fleisch-oder Fischküche zu spezialisieren. 3 Jede Woche wird die Küche einer italienischen Region vorgestellt, studiert und bearbeitet. Zum Ende des Kurses wird jeder Koch die italienische Küche in ihrer regionalen Vielfalt kennen gelernt haben: von der traditionellen, bäuerlichen Küche der Toskana zur Fischküche der Adria, von den Käsespezialitäten aus dem Piemont zu den Tortellini aus der Emilia Romagna, vom Gemüse aus Apulien zu den sizilianischen Süsspeisen, von der alpinen zur mediterranen Küche. Italien ist ein komplexes Mosaik von Geschichte und Produkten, Gerichten und Traditionen, Düften und Geschmäckern. Bei uns gibt es für jedes Fest ein Gericht und für jedes Gericht ein Fest! 4 Jeweils an einem Wochentag, vorzugsweise am Montag, werden kurze Kurse über ein spezifisches Thema abgehalten, z.B.

dire le proprie conoscenze con studio individuale presso la biblioteca dell’Istituto. 5 Le lezioni si terranno nei giorni di martedì, mercoledì, giovedì e venerdì, con orario pieno. Dopo una breve presentazione storicogeografico della Regione con le sue tradizioni enogastronomiche e con le sue particolarità ambientali, si passerà allo studio concreto dei piatti tipici del territorio. L’insegnamento non sarà teorico, ma principalmente pratico ed individuale. I docenti e le materie prime provengono dalle singole regioni e cambiano ogni settimana. Il venerdì sera la scuola apre le porte alla città e presenta i piatti più interessanti della settimana. 6 Il sabato e la domenica sono riservati allo studio individuale e alla conoscenza di aziende, produttori, prodotti tipici nei vari settori alimentari. Alcuni produttori verranno direttamente presso la Scuola per presentare i loro prodotti con prova di assaggio, in altri casi gli chef usciranno sul territorio per conoscere le singole aziende e i produttori in tutte le regioni d’Italia. Alcuni fine settimana sono dedicati alla visita delle città d’arte più famose (Roma, Firenze, Venezia). 7 Il numero massimo di partecipanti è di venti corsisti, ai quali si garantisce anche vitto e alloggio presso Villa Borgognoni o in appartamenti in palazzi storici, nel centro della città, a pochi passi dalla Scuola. Il costo del corso, compreso vitto, alloggio, servizio lavanderia, ecc. è di diecimila dollari USA, più mille dollari di iscrizione. 8 Alla fine del corso viene rilasciato ufficialmente un Master con il riconoscimento della Regione Marche e del Ministero della Cultura.

Course Dates 2003 8 January - 14 March 25 March - 30 May 9 June - 13 August 7 October - 12 December

where they will be able to find out more about subjects of special interest to them. 5 Lessons will take place all day on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays. Following a brief historical and geographical introduction to the Region, its environmental features and its food and wine heritage, students will move on to the preparation of typical regional dishes. These will be practical, oneto-one lessons taught by regional specialists using specific regional ingredients that will change from week to week. On Fridays the school will open its doors to the general public, presenting the most interesting dishes of the week's endeavor for their evaluation. 6 Saturdays and Sundays will be devoted to individual study and getting to know a wide range of producers and their products. Some producers will present their products at the school, where tasting sessions will also be arranged. Others will welcome chefs to their premises throughout the country for weekend visits. Other weekend activities will include visiting Italy's foremost art cities (Rome, Florence, Venice). 7 Each course will be attended by no more than twenty participants, who will also receive board and lodging at Villa Borgognoni or in apartments in the historic center of the city, not far from the School. The cost of the course, including board, lodging, laundry service etc. is ten thousand US dollars, plus one thousand dollars enrollment fee. 8 At the end of the course all participants will receive an official Master's certificate under the aegis of the Marche Region and the Italian Ministry of Culture.

Degustation von ausgelesenen Weinen, Olivenöl, Teigwaren, Käse und Wurstwaren von den besten Produzenten aus ganz ltalien. In der Freizeit steht den Teilnehmern die hauseigene Bibliothek des Institutes zur individuellen Weiterbildung zur Verfügung. 5 Die Lektionen werden Dienstag, Mittwoch, Donnerstag und Freitag am Vor-und Nachmittag abgehalten. Nach einer kurzen geschichtlich/geografischen Vorstellung der zu bearbeitenden Region mit ihren Wein-und Gastronomie-Traditionen, werden wir uns der Zubereitung der typischen Gerichte der Region widmen. Die Lektionen werden vor allem praktisch und individuell von Spezialisten der jeweiligen Regionen abgehalten. Auch die Zutaten kommen aus der vorgestellten Region und wechseln jede Woche. Der Freitag wirdTag der offenen Tür sein, wobei man den Bewohnern der Stadt die interessantesten Gerichte der Woche vorstellt. 6 Samstag und Sonntag sind reserviert entweder für individuelle Weiterbildung oder für den Besuch von Produzenten aus den verschiedenen Lebensmittel-Sektoren in ganz Italien. Einige der Produzenten werden jedoch ihre Produkte direkt im Institut vorstellen, wo man die Spezialitäten auch degustieren kann. An einigen Wochenenden werden die berühmtesten Kunststädte wie Rom, Florenz und Venedig besucht. 7 Die maximale Teilnehmerzahl ist 20. Den Kursteilnehmern werden Kost und Unterkunft in der Villa Borgognoni oder in Wohnungen im historischen Zentrum der Stadt, nicht weit vom Institut, garantiert. Der Kurs kostet ingesamt mit Kost, Unterkunft, Wäsche-Service etc. zehntausend US Dollars plus tausend US Dollars Einschreibgebühren. 8 Am Schluss des Kurses werden den Teilnehmern ein offizieller Master-Titel von der Region Marken und dem Kultur-Ministerium überreicht.

Come on then,

M A R C H E

Seafood and landfood cooking

Gianfranco Mancini

- PH: P. M O N I N A

cool and dry pits (or caverns), where a singular transformation, involving significant changes in flavour and odour, takes place. If we move along the Adriatic coast we find the triumph of the seafood cooking. The sea provides homes for many varieties of fish, and the fishermen know how to adapt to every situation. Common fish and simple dishes are served for everyday meals, whilst richer fish and more sumptuous dishes can be provided for special occasions. Brodetto is the noble dish of the coast, from the North to the South, with variations which enrich and distinguish it. Its origins are in the working class, and it comes from the ability of the fishermen to use the fish that couldn’t be offered on the market. With time, the dish has been refined, gaining fame throughout Italy. Today it is presented in many different versions. Are there twelve varieties of fish or thirteen? Should you use saffron or not? Should the sauce be thick or liquid? Should the bread that accompanies this dish be toasted or not? Everyone talks about it, everyone prepares it in their own way, to suit their own, personal, tastes. That is how the Marche is: long live diversity!

AMELOT

chetta just to mention two. The first is characterised by the presence of crushed garlic, rosemary and white wine, whilst cooking in porchetta sees the use of wild fennel, which is very common in Marche cooking, and used for several dishes. Of course, while speaking about the gastronomic culture of this land, there are two jewels of the region that we absolutely cannot forget: the white truffle and the formaggio di fossa (a cave-matured, sheep’s milk cheese). The white truffle, (tuber magnatum pico) matures in the autumn. It has an extraordinary, unique and unmistakable aroma that makes it instantly recognisable. The formaggio di fossa comes from a centuries-old tradition. The cheese is made in the summer, and then allowed to mature for a long period of time inside natural,

ST U D I O C

ntil a few years ago, the Marche could be considered a predominantly agricultural region. Farm produce was mostly for local family consumption, and along the coast, the sea offered its riches to the fishermen. Industrialisation has here maintained respect for the environment and the countryside, the Marche people have not abandoned their own style: life here, like the food, is generally sober, civil and simple. The gastronomic culture in this region consists of few elements, that are simple, but rich in flavour: pork, sheep, rabbit and poultry accompanied the daily life of the farmers, and good wine and excellent olive oil are never missing from the tables of the Marche people. Plenty of vegetables, wheat for home-made bread, and fruits that vary according to the season, have always ensured that there is always something to eat. The biggest fuss, however, was made for pork, the true, great wealth of the farming family. Beef was rare, oxen were used as working animals, and even today, the Marches cow can be considered a pride of this land, as it is one of the few, valued breeds of cow in Italy. Meats are cooked in many different ways, potacchio and in por-

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T O S C A N A

A local variety of dishes

When

Carlo Gazzarrini

talking about traditional Tuscany food, we must first overcome the clichĂŠs relating to big roast meals, important fried dishes, barbecues and large bowls of soup. The varied cuisine of this region is, in fact, a direct result of a historical evolution linked to the many different populations that in the course of time have settled here.

The uses and traditions that have been handed down from generation to generation have left a stamp of simplicity and careful attention to non-wastage, on this area of Italy. The cuisine that has developed

here, however, is also one that is adaptable and ready to evolve to the new requirements set out by a new technological awareness and modern heating and freezing technology.

T O S C A N A

This characteristic corresponds with that of maximum re-use, and therefore minimum waste, of all the ingredients of a food product, and has led to the development of cooking techniques that exalt the flavour of a dish, starting with the energy sources of daily work, such as the roast from the blacksmith’s barbecue, and the stewed meats from brick-ovens. To this, we add a profound understanding of the use of herbs, spices, onion, garlic, rosemary, wild fennel and of marinature (marinating). This skill accompanies the cuisine, to create a diversity of dishes and real pleasure at the table. Cereals have always been cultivated in the marginal areas or the less accessible mountainous zones, and have satisfied the hunger of the population with an

important supply of bread production. Here, in fact, bread is the basis of every meal, and, together with a multitude of vegetables, helps create a richness that this region has always been able to boast, also for naturalistic reasons. Meat was present in the kitchens of the courts, bourgeois and curial, whilst a modest amount of pork got as far as the common person’s table. The same can be said of game, of which Tuscany has always had plenty. We can see, therefore, that the famous dish of ‘carne chianina’, obtained from the white Tuscan breed of cow, was really only the privilege of a select few. An aboundance of fish reached the tables of the coastal districts, with the nutritious pesce azzurro (‘blue fish’ i.e. anchovies, sardi-

T O S C A N A

nes, mackerels), while the eels and other fish of the inland regions were the cacciucco (chowder) of the river. Salted or dried fish, such as herrings and anchovies, were ever present in the larder, and accompanied the inexhaustible supply of vegetables (chickpeas, beans, etc.) that, whether fresh or dried, boasted a similar protein content similar to that of meat, and, together with bread and chestnuts, contributed significantly to saving Tuscans from emigration in the first half of the 1900s. The role of olive oil, even if measured by the affluence of the owner of the house, is tied to the tradition of the ‘special touch’, of the greatest pleasure, of the refined and of fragrance. Tuscan sweets and desserts are based on the tradition of the idea

of ‘recupero di cucina’ (using up any leftovers), a habit that has given rise to many fried cakes, sweetbreads, and sweet pancakes. There is a great local and regional variety of dishes, and every community, every village had, and still has, its own traditions and its own local recipes. The rich sweets, made with a lot of sugar, eggs, and decorations, originate from the cooking of the

noble classes, and have been adopted and are valued in bourgeois cooking and by the population in general as a symbol of affluence. Finally, the wine, an element which strongly characterises the region of Tuscany. It is seen as a symbolic “fuel” for work, as a warmth, a foodstuff, a way of leaving the daily problems at home, by socialising in an osteria (a

typical rustic tavern or pub). In cooking, the role of wine is today very important in the marinade of game, in sauces, and in cooking pork. Typical Tuscany food is varied, versatile, and difficult to identify as a single concept. Man and his traditions, historical evolution and the development of techniques have all contributed, however, to its regional character.

Ph. Shobha

S I C I L I A

Sicilian cooking, centuries of history

Francesco Pensovecchio Pasquale Buffa

he Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Normans, Swedes, French and Spanish have all played a part in the history of Sicily, giving this area of Italy a continuous succession of armies, populations, dominations, enforcements, new rules and new traditions. It is for this reason that the question of ‘typical’ Sicilian cuisine is a complex one.

The evolution of cooking traditions over the span of the centuries has been gradually ‘contaminated’ by the various populations and food products. Discovering Sicilian cooking is rather like taking a long trip back in time, to find a delicate balance of tastes and flavours. In looking at the evolution of the ‘taste of Sicily’, we should perhaps start with the Greek period, characterised by the arrival of olive trees, vines and an extensive cultivation of wheat. An important turning point then came with the start of the Arabic period, which brought not only citrus fruits, rice, jasmine, sugar cane and spices such as cinnamon and saffron to Sicilian cooking, but also introduced important techniques for fishing swordfish in Messina and tuna in Favignana, later to be perfected

by the French and Spanish. The Arabs also brought couscous, once again adapted, to be prepared with fish, and the use of dried fruit, sultanas, pine nuts and almonds, to Sicilia cooking. The Arabic influence in sweets and desserts is no less evident. Some examples which clearly show the impact include sorbetto

(a type of semi-liquid sorbet) and ‘cassata’ (a ricotta-based dessert with chocolate and candied fruits). Cassata is a sweet traditionally eaten at Easter time, and is of particular interest for its name, which derives from ‘qas at’ (meaning round, or bowl), and hints at the difficult balance between the idea of the extreme

L A S E G R E TA • A L A S T R O • C O M E TA • C H A R D O N N AY SYRAH • MERLOT • S A N TA C E C I L I A • BURDESE MENFI • SAMBUCA

SICILIA

• NOTO

w w w. p l a n e t a . i t

• VITTORIA

E M I L I A and of excess between riches and poverty to the limits of foodstuffs. Sicilians will ever be grateful to Emiro Ibn at –Timnah for the creation of timballi or arancine. Legend tells that Emiro was the original inventor of this dish, often going out hunting, taking these meat-filled small balls of rice cooked with saffron with him. Towards the end of the Arabic period, about a thousand years ago, there is evidence of this particular food production, in an area not far from the city of Palermo. This dish can be considered an ancestor of today’s spaghetti. Following this, there was a long period of Spanish domination, with the splendid outburst of Baroque art. This period was to have a lasting influence on Sicilian cooking methods, the effect of which can be easily appreciated simply by remembering the marvellous almond, pistachio and ricotta-based pastries produced in the enclosed convents scattered all over the island. This is also the period in which a splendid but somewhat easygoing aristocracy originated and its use of the highly skilled “monsù”. These were chefs who had been trained in France, and thus therefore integrated introduced into the elaborate island recipes, the skills in preparation and cooking with which they were familiar in central Europe.

Furthermore, the Spanish period marked the arrival of chocolate from America, and the aubergine (egg-plant) from India. In the rich Countship of Modica, these new ingredients, together with beef and pork, gave life to those surprising, filled, desserts called mpanatigghi. Aubergine, fried with tomato, celery, olives and almonds, and prepared in an Arabian-style sweet and sour sauce, provided what was to become a cornerstone of Sicilian cooking, the dish known as caponata. This dish represents the synthesis between the two traditions of Sicilian cooking: on the one hand, the popular cuisine, dishes made with vegetables and simple products of the land, and on the other, the elaborate, sometimes lavish, preparation which was so popular amongst the aristocrats and upper classes. Another phenomenon of special relevance is the ‘street food’ of the city of Palermo. Foods such as bread, panelle (thin layers of chickpea flour, fried and filled

with sliced bread), focacce (flat, grilled bread), frittelle (a type of pancake that can be sweet or savoury), timballi or arancine (as previously explained), and roasted meats testify to a lifestyle characterised by the importance given to the quality of all food, even that eaten whilst on the move. In Sicilian history the simple panelle, allowed a hungry population to forget the more substantial fish fry and could even be delivered to your home, this custom eventually led to the trade of the “buffettieri” (buffet-preparer), a word originating from the French ‘buffet’. As for wine, it is most certainly the ‘red thread’ that links all the various historical periods, with the influence of the Greeks, Piedmonts, Arabs, and others. It is also interesting to note that the Arabs demonstrated good common sense and a certain flexibility both on a gastronomic and a religious level. Sicily was a compulsory stopover for those coming from the Eastern part of the Mediterranean, so people from all walks of life found their way to the island. We would conclude with a suggestion for the reader’s breakfast and one of the simplest, and most representative dishes of the region: a lemon granita (crushedice drink) with a croissant hot from the oven, a truly delicious Arabic-French-Sicilian mix.

R O M A G N A

A rich region among pork and tortellini Alberto Fabbri

he fame and reputation of the cuisine of Emilia is based on two principle elements: pasta, both filled and unfilled, and pork. The land that has seen the birth of banquet- show, whose forming is characterized by pig-breeding, has always been, and still is, extremely varied. Pork remains one of the unifying elements, a tribute to a meat culture that originated with the Lombards, and reaches Romagna, where the sheep prevails. Cooked salami-type sausa-

ges, such as mortadella (baloney), or those matured at length, such as prosciutto or culatello (both types of ham), now belong to universal gastronomy, not only Italian. We must also not forget the sweet salamis of Parma, or those made with garlic in Ferrara, or the ‘coppa’ from Piacenza. The list could go on, as could that listing the various types of pasta: tagliatelle, tortelloni di zucca, lasagna, maltagliati, etc. The ‘prince’ of dishes of this region, remains, however, without

E M I L I A

doubt the tortellino (a filled, fresh pasta). “… as you journey between just ten motorway tollbooths, you drive past grana, to parmigiano reggiano, which are both similar, parmesan-style, cheeses, from the agnolini to the tortelli, tortellini, and cappelletti, all similar types of filled, fresh pasta that presuppose different recipes. As you head towards the coast, the dialect and architecture change, in the journey to arrive at the famous mosaics of Ravenna you have to cross Roman Modena, Gothic Bologna, and perhaps even make a stop to admire the Renaissance influence at Ferrara…” Many books have been written, and many legends born, of the tortellino and its variants (cappelletti, agnolini), the true symbol of Bologna cuisine. There are refe-

R O M A G N A

rences to its being called ‘Venus’s navel’, or being mentioned in conjunction with the city of Castelfranco Emilia, the mediaeval birthplace of the tortellino. In Bologna, the term “tortello” appeared for the first time in 1289. During the renaissance period, important writers spoke about tortellini, while in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, they no longer accompanied large banquets or featured in cuisine. It is believed that, for some reason, in this period the tortellini underwent a change of image and was considered too ordinary for the tables of the rich, yet, at the same time, too rich for the tables of the poor. Worldwide interest in tortellini is a relatively recent fact and dates from the turn of the nineteenth century, the period that coincides with the phase of the city’s indu-

strial development. The classical sauce was a broth made from mature chicken or capon; now the best known are cream or ragu, both very recent, dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Who knows, perhaps the symbol of the region of Emilia Romagna should be represented by the image of a traditional housewife, wrapped up in ‘sheet’ pasta, holding a rolling pin (used for making the pasta mix), whilst a tortellino shines on her forehead, just like a tiara. The course of regional cuisine dedicated to Emilia Romagna includes work on making this form of pasta. In fact, it will be the true mistresses of this art, the housewives, who must teach the grand and difficult task of making the perfect pasta mix, which must be worked and worked and worked... until it is perfect.

P U G L I A

A Mediterranean region

uglia has been known as a land of oil, wheat and wine since ancient times. It is located on Mediterranean soil and boasts a wealth of products from the land and the sea, and plenty of sun. You can travel from the north to the south of this region, and for hundreds of kilometres, as far as the eye can see, the scenery of an infinity of olive trees surrounds you. Olive oil has, therefore, become an essential element of Puglia cooking. It is, in fact, impossible to imagine a dish such as fave e cicoria (beans and chicory) without a good olive oil. Inland on the high plains, durum wheat stretch the fields of an essential product for making the best dried pasta of this region. Puglia durum wheat is highly sought after by all the high quality pasta factories of Italy, to produce the best pasta specialities. Every type of vegetable, be it lettuce, artichoke, pepper, aubergine, onion, or celery, can be found crunchier and more fragrant here than in all other Italian regions. Then we must not forget the sea’s offerings: mussels, sea urchins, oysters, clams, and scallops. The vegetables are eaten raw, as are the fish, especially small cuttlefish, small shrimps, anchovies or small octo-

Pasquale Porcelli puses, mussels or razor clams. Cured ham is always present on the tables of Puglia, especially at festivals, and is generally, accompanied by one of the many types of bread that in this region are traditionally made with flour made from local wheat. There is widespread use of fresh dairy products in Puglia cooking, such as fiordilatte (a type of mozzarella made with cow’s milk), burrata (a soft cheese made with cream), provola (buffalo-milk chee-

se), manteca (a type of cheese with butter in the middle) and fresh or salted ricotta; while, of course, meat, above all beef, is also very popular. If to all this we add an abundant use of vegetables and pasta, a clear picture is formed of a healthy, well-balanced and simple cuisine, that, whilst surprising, is most definitely Mediterranean. Based on the quality of the raw materials, and very little on their manipulation, Puglia cuisine enhances the natural flavours of the ingredients. This is true of everything, including, for instance dishes made with fish, which, by tradition, should not be cooked too long. To obtain the simple but typical dish ‘ciambotte’, simply add a clove of garlic, some small tomatoes and a drop of oil. There is, however, another dish which brings all the culinary knowledge of Puglia together: orecchiette con cime di rape: durum wheat bran flour pasta is cooked with turnip tops, and, after cooking, refried with the addition of a drop of extravirgin olive oil. There is no simpler yet tastier dish. Those who attend the Master Italian cooking course will learn how to make this dish, and will then be able to present this as a glory of Puglia cuisine.

S A R D E G N A

A wine and food walk into the heart of Sardinia

Angelo Concas Renato Troffa

is in the heart of this island that we can really appreciate the majestic appeal of Texile di Aritzo, a mountain that dominates the thirteen villages of the mountain community of Barbagia Mandrolisai.

Centuries-old traditions, deep roots of a world far away from the metropolis. In the old historic centre of Aritzo, the remains of the â&#x20AC;&#x153;domos de nieâ&#x20AC;? (snow houses) are still visible. In fact, the Artizo people really used to prepare sa carapigna, the typical sorbet made with the juice of citrus fruits with this snow. This recipe is one of many ancient traditions that risked disappearance, but that can still be found today at fairs and festivals. On the last Sunday of October, an important event takes place at Aritzo: the festival of the chestnut. This day is dedicated to this fruit which, together with hazelnuts, walnuts and almonds, is very common in the Barbagia region. At the start of the summer, there is a cherry festival in nearby Belvi. This is an occasion on which you can taste the famous caschettes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; sweets, with a characteristic scallop-edged spiral form, made with a very thin, flaky

pastry, filled with a mixture of honey and hazelnuts. In Desulo, we can find mushrooms (specifically: edible boletus), walnuts and chestnuts, as well as the typical, and very tasty, dried sausages (long and soft), and the specific hams of this region. Tonara is considered the homeland of torrone (nougat). In fact, the people of Tonara are experts in the production of this type of sweet, which is obtained by working honey, dried fruit (in particular almonds, but also walnuts and hazelnuts) and egg-whites, all in together. Torrone from Sardinia is easily distinguished from that made in other parts of Italy, as the slow and tiring preparation that it goes through, makes it very soft. The rich vegetation in Sardinia favours the diffusion of a large variety of honeys, such as chestnut honey, citrus fruit, asphodel, thistle and millefiori (thousand flower honey). The bitter corbez-

S A R D E G N A zolo (strawberry tree) honey is well worth mentioning, with its unmistakeable, intense and balsamic flavour, that makes it particularly suitable for drizzling over melted pecorino (sheep’s milk cheese) and seadas (circular sheets of pasta, filled with fresh pecorino and lemon, fried in olive oil). In Meana, apart from tasting the typical cheeses that have maintained the flavour and traditional methods of Barbagia, we can also appreciate the use that is made of these cheeses in cooking, for the preparation of su succu, for example. This is an Easter dish and a product of a delicate egg pasta that is amalgamated with slightly acidulous fresh pecorino, Sardinian pecorino, lard and pepper, and then left to cook in the oven, until crispy and golden on top. Also in Meana, we can taste pane’e saba. This is a typical dessert that is prepared from a mixture of durum wheat flour, walnuts, hazelnuts, raisins, candied orange, aniseed, spices, caramelised sugar, and cooked wine must. The final product is quite extraordinary, and takes the form of a round loaf, is warm brown in colour, and is usually garnished with almonds and bay leaves. The culinary tradition of Barbagia is based on the fantastic and extremely tasty roast meats. The flavours of the (not yet weaned) lamb, kid goat and

piglet, are due to the wild grazing of these animals. This, together with the slow cooking over a fire and the use of aromatic wood, gives the roasted meat a unique and unmistakeable flavour, as it does also the game of this area (wild boar, hare and partridge). As for the wine, we should stress that this land is particularly suitable for the cultivation of vines, especially on the medium to high hills, where the traditional cultivations of muristellu and cannonau have found their ideal habitat, creating a great richness of aromas. From these grapes, red wines of complex structure, and intense aromas that remind you of the undergrowth, the berries and the small red fruits, are obtained. They are dry, warm, and sapid wines, that are smoothly elegant. We should also state that one of Sardinia’s most structured rosé wines is obtained from these same vineyards, made exclusively from red grapes. It is not by chance, that these wines are produced in the Mandrolisai wine cellars, that are based in Sorgono, (considered to be the capital city of the Mandrolisai), and that, in 1981, these wines were officially recognised as ‘Mandrolisai DOC’ (of controlled origin), recognising an area of great oenological worth. The flavours and traditions of this magic land are part of the teaching programme of the school.

F R I U L I

Land of borders Federico Piemonte

ocated on the Austria-Slovenia border, squeezed between the Alps and the Adriatic sea, and at the crossroads of the invasion of the populations of the North, that pushed towards the Mediterranean sea, the region of Friuli is a complex one.

The local cuisine is of humble origin, and still bears traces of the various cultures and influences that have lived there. Celts, Lombards, Byzantines, Cossacks, Slovenians Bohemians and Austrians have all left indelible tracks on the culture and traditions of this land. The movement of this population has enriched the cuisine and gastronomy, creating a melting pot of traditions and recipes. The testimonies dating back to the

beginning of the nineteenth century describe a cuisine involving soups, minestrones and potatoes, as well as corn-flour, which was used to make polenta, (a type of corn-meal mush), a symbolic dish that is ever present on the tables of this area. Until the 1960s, the regional economy was predominantly agricultural, and the cuisine made the most of local produce. This economic self-sufficiency, and this localism, pushed towards a

F R I U L I

diversification of the same recipes from valley to valley, and zone to zone. One example of this are the cjarsons (pasta filled with a mixture that can vary from herbs and spices, to fruits and jams), a dish of medieval origin that characterises the northern part of Friuli, in which sweet and savoury elements are mixed, following different and very personalised recipes. Pork mincing is one of the traditional symbols of the Friuli gastronomy and community life. The most important ingredient is, of course the world-famous ham: prosciutto di San Daniele. This ham is common throughout the whole region, and is sometimes even produced using Austrian working techniques, or maturation and smoking methods originating from Slovenia and Dalmatia. The various types of sausage are also very widespread. The muset (a cotechino, spiced sausage for boiling) is exceptional, and takes its name from the fact that it is prepared using the snout of the pig. Many other dishes use courtyard animals, such as the goose, which was introduced originally

C A M P A N I A by the Hebrew community, and is today very popular, as are poultry, rabbit and game. Over time, the farming tradition has handed down the habit of the use of wild herbs to enrich risottos and soups. Whilst some vegetables have become typical elements of the food culture of the region, such as the Savoy cabbage that can be treated to become crauti (sauerkraut), turnips, instead are conserved in marc (the refuse of pressed grapes), and then grated, to become brovada (a pickled turnip dish), delicious whether eaten cooked or raw. In the coastal areas, the regional gastronomy offers fish-based dishes, such as the famous simple, yet tasty, fish soup boreto. It is due to the availability of crustaceans, in fact, that risottos have now become part of our gastronomic tradition. In Trieste, you can still feel the Hapsburg influence of the past, in products and dishes such as the porcina (boiled pork), served with horseradish and crauti, or the iota, a soup made with potatoes, beans, crauti, garlic, bay leaf and cumin. As is to be expected for a humble cuisine with farming origins, sweets are few, but substantial, and amongst those that most deserve to be mentioned is the gubana , a typical sweet from the Cividale area of Friuli. Throughout the world, the region of Friuli is also associated with high quality white wines and a great tradition of liqueur production. That most famous is, of course, grappa.

A journey into

Campania Felix Vito Puglia

The

Campania cuisine truly is one of the great pillars on which the tradition italian gastronomy is based. Since the times of the Roman empire, Campania has been chosen by Emperors and Philosophers for its temperate climate, sweet territory, beautiful coasts and agricultural vocation. In fact, for these reasons, it is generally known as ‘Campania Felix’. The land and the climate have exalted the extraordinary agricultural abilities of a large part of the region, where there is still an extremely interesting richness of a variety of vegetables and animals. The internal areas, those further away from the sea, contribute to making the region a particular unicum, enriched by a history influenced by many different cultures, which has produced a happy union between farming simplicity and the monumentality of the baroque period. Literature has described, exalted and sung this gastronomy that is so solar, imaginative and spectacular. To give a few examples, we only need mention the ‘Oro di Napoli’ (Naples’ Gold) by Giuseppe Marotta, or the theatre work of the great Eduardo de Filippo.

Pasta, with the tradition of the Gragnanese, is the symbol of the Neapolitans, who are, in fact nicknamed ‘maccheroni eaters’ by the French. This is an expression that has been coined, to substitute the previous name of ‘leaf eaters’ that had represented them up until that point. In fact the various pastas and soups, of which minestra maritata is the soup par excellence, help identify the two classic periods of the gastronomic evolution of the Neapolitan cuisine. The characteristic of the Campania dishes is closely linked to a knowledgeable use of extraordinary raw materials, the obvious example being pizza. This dish owes a lot to the san marzano tomato, the mozzarella di bufala or fiordilatte from Agerola and to the extra-virgin olive oil. All ingredients which, when united with the flat disc of bread obtained with ancient understanding of natural rising and cooking in a wood oven, have created an internationally successful product that has literally conquered the world. The dishes of popular cuisine, and those of noble cuisine have, with the evolution of history, reached a synthesis. Of course, in

C A M P A N I A

the sumptuousness of certain dishes such as the sartù di riso (a type of rice-based meatball) or the timballo di pasta (timbales) with béchamel sauce or, amongst the sweets, the babà (a pastry dessert), you can feel the effects of French or Northern European influence. However, even the simple and extraordinary recipes, such as ragù alla genovese (a popular onion-based dish, originating from the port area), or the fried dishes of pasta cresciuta filled with ricotta or anchovies, or served with a simple tomato, basil and savoury ricotta sauce (products once to be found all over the city), can also be considered ‘noble’. The variety of products used, has made Campania gastronomy quite extraordinary, starting with those from the vegetable garden. In these lands, a simple onion becomes the ramata di Montoro (copper coloured) or the bianca napoletana (Neapolitan white onion), garlic is either white from Vesuvio, or from Prata. In this way a strong link has been created between products, areas and local identity. Amongst cheese

and dairy products the same thing has occurred with the provolone (a matured cheese made from cow’s milk) from Aversa, the dairy products from the Sorrento peninsula, the caprino (goat’s milk cheese) from Cileno, the pecorino (sheep’s milk cheese) from Sannio and the caciocavallo (cow’s milk cheese) from Irpinia and so forth. Campania boasts a cuisine of aromas and flavours that, unusually, sees the products from the inland areas as the protagonists, rather than the marine products. In any case, seafood cuisine should be mentioned for its history and for the seafaring districts’ traditions. Along the coast many ‘tunny fishing nets’ have conditioned the development and the existence itself of these ancient quarters. The fact that examples of fish breeding have been with us since Roman Time hints at the important relationship between Campania cuisine and the sea. As regards wine, there is a great oenological tradition in Campania. The island of Ischia is, in fact, one of the first places where the cultivation of vines in the

Mediterranean area is historically documented. The wines of this region have recently been renewed, as much as regards farming and agronomic techniques, as the productive and transformation technologies, and they now stand out as being amongst the great national ‘top wines’. This is a success well earned by the traditionally rooted Campania vine dressers. To give just a couple of examples, the Falerno or the Cecubo were the most expensive and sought after wines in ancient Rome, and today the Taurasi is a modern representative of that tradition. We must also acknowledge those producers who, without following easy oenological methods, have successfully worked on the classic regional vines: the Aglianico and the Piedirosso amongst those of red berry, and the Fiano, Greco, Biancolella and Flanghina amongst those of white berry. The gastronomic panorama of Campania should therefore be admired with the attention that it deserves, as a great tradition whose food products have significantly influenced how Italy is seen throughout the world.

he geographical centrality of the Esino river offers an opportunity to compare different culture in the surrounding areas. The Esino has provided a natural divide between civilisation that were obliged to face each other and make comparisons. First the border between the

tre of this Roman town, Costanza d’Altavilla gave birth to this extraordinary character, who is still given the title of Stupor Mundi for his rare intellectual qualities and extraordinary political intuition. From that moment Jesi became a Città Regia, and advanced

Jesi città regia royal town Loretta Mozzoni

Gallic and the Piceni populations, then between those of the Byzantines and the Lombards, the Esino has supplied a natural divide between those civilisations that were obliged to face each other and make comparisons. A civilisation with a complex profile has thus ensued, with a strong territorial identity of which Jesi became the centre. The history of the town of Jesi is different to that of the Marches situation, which is, in general, made up of small autonomous municipalities. Imposing traces of this aggressive and warlike character can still be seen in the contado’s castles (castelli del contado), as in the town of Jesi, which is entirely surrounded by castle walling, which unwinds for one and a half kilometres, partly running over the Roman defence course, and partly enclosing mediaeval quarters. In 1194, in this strengthened fortress, the Suevian Emperor, Federico II, was born. In the square which had been the cen-

into modern times, taking hold as a small capital, in which the manufacturing and business precocity united with urban choices and first class artistic inclinations. Following the example given by the majestic Palazzo della Signoria, completed in 1498 and the work of the architectonic genius of Francesco di Giorgio Martini, an extremely high quality civil and religious building trade developed in Jesi. The roads to the centre show a very civil measure of architectonic elegance and special rationality. In this town, in 1710, not only was Giova Battista Pergolesi born, but Gaspare Spontini (born just a few kilometres away, in Maiolati) grew up and studied. Jesi pays tribute to each of these characters in appropriate places, such as museums, libraries and theatres. Apart from this the general public are continually reminded of these historical figures, through cultural events that still today articulate the, very civilised, social life.

he Marches, it is said, is a ‘plural’ region. From time to time the ‘march’ of Ancona, or of Camerino or Fermo may be spoken of, recognising that each of these has its own specific character and structure. This multiplicity is today seen as a valuable quality that can offer a

populations who were diffident of foreigners, taking refuge in strategic heights, equipped with towers and castles in impossible positions and who used sheep and dairy products, a little wheat and many vegetables and chestnuts to survive. A harsh scene, which extends

An idea of the Marche great deal on a cultural level, as well as the advantages of varied landscape and tradition. Secured by travel in Italy, the region of the Marches has always been a land to pass through, and, since the very beginning, an identification has been made between landscape and countryside, and nature and faming civilisation, the first being extremely organised and subdued, the second humble and almost primitive. Even in literature dating back to Mediaeval Times, the region underwent a first distinction of territorial fascias: Montefeltro and Sibillini were recognised as ‘wild’, the hills and valleys as fertile, and the coast as being sunny. Rather than from North to South, the Marches walk par excellence is identified as being a route that goes from the Mountains to the Sea. The difficulty of the Apennine passes and the ancient activities linked to stock rearing, make the Mountain band a place that is certainly not a fringe area. It was, however, a hard life for

towards the East, becoming hills and valleys rich with wheat fields, vines and olive groves, orchards and vegetable cultivations, where life is sweeter. Here the houses open onto courtyards and gardens, and the churches reveal elegant architecture. It is, however, from the East that news arrives: after the Saracen incursions, the sea is once again seen as a means of communication that makes trade and commerce easier. For a long time the coast was almost deserted, and nothing more than a blue, mobile, backdrop. Only the toughest sailors and most hardened fishermen ventured out onto the sea. The sea which has since brought the most important productive activities to the valley, not to mention the summer tourist invasion. The expanses of fine sand remain, with water that is finally clear, and rocky and green coastal headlands.

Loretta Mozzoni

A course designed to know Italian cuisine, region for region. Reserved for professionals from all over the world who cook Italian food. A course that looks at the historical roots of the regional cooking of Italy: from the North to the South and from the Alps to the Mediterranean. A course to know the producers of quality food (pasta, wine, cheese, olive oil, meat products...) and the gastronomic culture of each region. A diploma that requires hard work and studyng, with the possibility of work experience in each region of Italy at the end of the year.