Dining

Expertly prepared

Hazelnut Kitchen offers less conventional menu items, prepared perfectly

By Henry Stark

When was the last time you had rabbit meatballs for dinner? For me, it was last Saturday evening. I didn’t actually order them; not really. I went to Hazelnut Kitchen in Trumansburg and ordered “Let the Chef Decide,” which is a closely guarded secret until it arrives on the table. The “Let the Chef Decide” dish is “mp” (market price), based on the ingredients the chef, a co-owner, buys frequently and opportunistically. It’s a formula that apparently works for the establishment. Some customers enjoy the surprise element, however, I’m uncomfortable with it. I like the idea of the chef/owner making decisions based on what he sees at the market, however I’d like him to share it with his customers. It’s also very difficult to choose a wine to complement the meal if you’re not permitted to know what the meal is.

Saturday, the rabbits ($30) were supplied by Grassland Farms in Waterloo, New York and were sauteed with spinach and a kohlrabi cream sauce poured over spätzle and finished with a salsa made with cranberries, apple, herbs and pecans.

I’ve also enjoyed pasta, “canestri,” ($27) made with a roasted butternut squash ragu, crumbled garlic pork sausage, ricotta cheese and preserved lemons. (If you haven’t heard of canestri, its name comes from “canestro,” which means a little basket and is often filled with ricotta).

The Smoked Chicken Thighs ($28): a single thigh is smoked for hours in their own smoker and embellished with coconut rice (reminded me of barley), diced sweet potatoes and bok choy.

Pan Seared Monkfish (($30) was served with a sauce of roasted beets, sunchokes, fennel, an orange-ginger puree and cilantro chutney. The fish was softer

and more tender than the firm texture I’m used to (monkfish is sometimes referred to as “poor man’s lobster”).

All these entrées were cooked expertly with wonderful textures and flavors which complemented each other beautifully.

I need to watch my weight, however, Hazelnut Kitchen is one place I allow myself to splurge. The five desserts ($8) and seven ice creams ($5) are homemade. If you like lemon, you might like to try the lemon crème tart with candied grapefruit peel, poppyseed cookie crust, strawberry blood orange coulis and vanilla whipped cream. I can also recommend the warm spiced apple crumb cake with caramel, crushed pecans, and the same vanilla whipped cream.

The esoteric wine menu strikes me as a bit too unusual and could stand to add a Dry Riesling, Malbec, Merlot and a Cabernet Franc among others. Wines by the glass (only three white and three red), are $10/$11 and you won’t find any bottles under $40. There are only three beers available, all from New York State.

Hazelnut Kitchen is efficiently run and serves consistently excellent food.

"All these entrées were cooked expertly with wonderful textures, and flavors that complemented each other beautifully."

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A chef puts the finishing touches on a dish. (Photo: Provided)

Tidbit:

-From their website: a credit card must be used to make a reservation. A $10/per person charge will be deducted from the card if you “cancel your reservation at any time or arrive more than 15 minutes late.” You are also asked to limit your dinner to “around 90 minutes.” (The restaurant is relatively small, and management has instituted these restrictions to protect themselves.)