Serving the region’s catering professionals
It’s show time! Why drama is an essential ingredient for F&B success
March 2010 • Vol 06 • Issue 03
Plate planning
Top chefs assess the challenges of developing the perfect menu
THE BIGGER PICTURE Middle East chefs pay top dollar for quality imported ingredients — but at what cost to the environment? An ITP Business Publication | Licensed by Dubai Media City
Contents Volume 6 Issue 03
28
Cover story
18 20
50
Contents March 2010
05 News Why independent brands may supplant hotel outlets; call for more celeb chef restaurants; experts flag up health trend 14 Mystery shopper Ethos Consultancy reveals the true standard of customer service at UAE outlets and offers advice on how to better your business 16 Expert insight Thomas Klein’s Daniel During considers the future of the region’s chain brands 18 Trainee finals The final F&B student challenge at Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management 20 Roundtable Top chefs open up about the highs and lows of menu development
28 Food for thought In a region where almost all ingredients are imported, how do chefs feel about the environmental impact? 34 Outlet showcase The strategy behind The Address Dubai Mall’s new signature outlet 42 Gulfood review All the hot news and views from the region’s premier F&B trade show 50 Smashing stuff Revitalise your tabletop with the latest crockery offerings on the market 51 Product showcase The best and brightest new F&B wares 56 Last bite Chatting with TV chef Brian Turner
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34 42
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March 2010 Caterer Middle East
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Web contents www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
Online The online home of Editor’s pick
In pictures
Student chefs dazzle diners The Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management’s inaugural food fair and dinner saw final-year students hosting a six-course menu of their own creation for guests, overseeing everything from cooking to serving to pairing wines with each course.
Chefs go head-to-head in seasonal cooking comp Eight Dubai chefs went head-to-head last month in cooking competition The Seasonal Challenge, organised by Caterer Middle East and Nestlé Professional. Held at Bonnington Jumeirah Lakes Towers, the event saw teams of two prepare a main course and dessert using special seasonal items. Read the full story online to find out which team triumphed!
Features
Rise of the machines
Meat-ing quotas
Inside outlets
Dan Clayton gets nostalgic for the pre-technology days of hospitality
Chefs and suppliers reveal how budget restrictions boost demand for unusual cuts
An insight into the operational strategy behind The Author’s Lounge
Most popular celebrity chef eyes UAE for new restaurant 1. UK Culinaire competi2. Salon tion attracts 1500 chefs claims Taste of 3. Rhodes Dubai best in the world PREVIEW: 4. GULFOOD Stand out from the crowd the rise of celeb chefs 5. Isharming the industry?
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Caterer Middle East March 2010
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News March 2010
Story of the month
Independent F&B brands to supplant hotel outlets? Hotel operators seek to benefit from independent outlets’ pulling power The future of hotel F&B offerings lies with independent brands, according to top regional operators. BinHendi Hospitality business development manager for F&B Khalil Fakih said he was certain the region would increasingly see independent outlets in hotels “because nowadays you need a hook or an established brand to draw people in”. RMAL Hospitality director of restaurant operations Simon Penhaligan added that branded outlets could add “significant value” to a hotel portfolio. “We’ve got two very strong branded outlets in the Fairmont Bab Al Bahr — Frankie’s and the Marco Pierre White Steakhouse — and although it’s a new property, the outlets are buzzing,” he revealed. “If you had a normal Italian restaurant in there, I don’t think it would have got the same reaction.” The group behind The Ivy and Le Caprice, Caprice Holdings — which formed a partnership with Dubai Holding’s Tatweer in 2008 to bring its brands to the Middle East — is another firm receptive to the idea of putting its outlets into hotels. “Our focus is on offering a service as similar as possible to what we do in the UK and America,
Which F&B model will be most successful in future? Independent brands in hotels; it’s the best of both worlds — licensed, but with an independent business ethos.
61%
Hotels’ own restaurants; they have a captive audience and can offer all-inclusive package deals.
22%
Independent outlets; malls and residential areas are steadily seeing more footfall and so are their F&B offerings.
17%
Source: www.hoteliermiddleeast.com
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
Headline grabbers P6 Celebrity status Would the region benefit from more celeb-endorsed outlets? P6 A healthy body and healthy wallet Nutrition and value flagged up as central upcoming industry trends
Marco Pierre White Steakhouse and Grill at Fairmont Bab Al Bahr. which does entail having an alcohol license,” pointed out operations director David O’Brien. The group’s first outlet in the region, Rivington Grill, has avoided the issue with a location in Dubai’s Souk Al Bahar, where outlets can attain a license through a neighbouring hotel. But O’Brien said the company would “definitely consider” putting its brands into hotels in future. “Of course, it would very much depend on the brand and the property,” he noted. The succes of this type of initiative is evident at The Monarch Dubai, a hotel featuring independent outlets Ruth’s Chris Steak House and Okku. “The industry in this region has seen a strong trend of internationally-acclaimed independent brands taking up residence in hotels,” noted the property’s general manager Henning Fries. “This has resulted in an influx of innovation and originality, which could otherwise only have been achieved at great effort and expense on parts of the individual hotel owners.” According to Joe Van Jaarsveld, general manager at The Meat Co, Souk Madinat, the growing need for recognisable F&B brands in hotels is due to today’s “very loyal” consumers. “People don’t eat out as often as nowadays, so they’d rather go back somewhere they’ve had a good experience in the past,” Van Jaarsveld explained.
P6 Online opinions Collecting industry views on service standards in Middle East outlets P7 Smoke em’ out Supplier calls for crackdown on counterfeit cigars P7 Measuring up Kitchen professionals praise regional talent following Salon success
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March 2010 Caterer Middle East
05
News March 2010
F&B industry calls for more celeb outlets Celebrity chef-endorsed outlets have had a great impact, but there’s room for more say professionals Celebrity chef-endorsed outlets have done great things for the Middle East restaurant scene, but the region could do with more, according to industry professionals. At Atlantis, The Palm — where celebrity chef-backed outlets include Nobu, Ronda Locatelli, Rostang and Ossiano — vice president, culinary Mark Patten said such enterprises increased “the overall quality of restaurants and dining experiences”. “It also shows visitors that we are serious about driving variety and quality, through bringing in top names,” he added. Mike Nalborczyk, general manager of Hilton Dubai Creek — home to Verre by Gordon Ramsay — said the arrival of more big names had “helped accelerate the growth of the culinary scene in the region, both with regards to service and the dining experiences on offer”.
How do you rate customer service in the region’s restaurants? Terrible; although who could be an empowered employee with these salaries?
22%
Bad; it’s rare to eat out here without experiencing some kind of service error.
56%
Mediocre; it’s OK, they could do more though.
11%
Good; operators seem to be focusing more on training nowadays.
6%
Excellent; we are streets ahead of other destinations.
5%
Source: www.hoteliermiddleeast.com
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Caterer Middle East March 2010
Atlantis, The Palm’s Mark Patten. “Gordon was the first celebrity chef to take notice of Dubai’s potential; Verre helped put Dubai on the culinary map and then others followed suit,” he noted.
Michelin-starred chef Vineet Bhatia, patron-chef of Indego at Grosvenor House Dubai, agreed that such outlets had raised the region’s culinary profile to an extent, but pointed out that this was very Dubaicentric so far. “Dubai has led the way for everybody in the GCC and I think Abu Dhabi will strive to come up to that level very soon,” he asserted. “But apart from these two cities I don’t see much else coming up in the GCC; there’s still a way to go in that respect. “There are so many fantastic chefs around the world who would love to come here, and I’m sure they will. I would love to see the likes of Alain Ducasse and Joel Robuchon — hopefully they’re already looking at options. “Dubai should be very proud of what it has here, but I’m sure there will be much more coming down the line,” he predicted.
‘Healthy value will be future focus’ Leading F&B professionals have flagged up health and value-for-money as key upcoming trends for the Middle East F&B industry. Emaar Hospitality Group corporate director of culinary excellence Viktor Stampfer noted: “It’s all about value. People are still willing to go out and spend on their meals, but they want to be sure they’re getting their money’s worth. “On a global scale, the focus is coming back to healthy cooking,” he continued. “This trend involves incorporating food that’s specific to your region and also ingredients that are
Emaar Hospitality’s Viktor Stampfer. sourced locally help to support the economy, keep import costs down and make your offerings authentic.” Nestlé Professional advisory chef Zain Sidhu agreed nutrition, health and wellness would be buzz words for 2010. “With consumers becoming more conscious
that ‘you are what you eat’, leading operators will need to change their strategies to offer tasty nutritious food at good prices,” he said. Adil Souate, assistant director of F&B at Media Rotana Dubai, added that authenticity and traceability could play a big role. “People want ethnic food, fresh food, environmentallyaware and nutritious food,” Souate asserted. Emaar’s Stampfer also predicted that ‘back-to-basic’ cooking styles would feature heavily: “It’s about serving a food item as naturally as possible, to maintain its true flavour and nutrients.”
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
News In brief
Smoking out forgers Cigar suppliers in the region are reportedly facing growing competition from counterfeiters. Hadi Sleiman, business development manager with Baqer Mohebi Est (BME), said the issue was “a major problem” for genuine cigar suppliers. “Unfortunately there are people in the UAE claiming they have Cuban cigars for sale,” he said at last month’s Habanos Sommelier competition at La Casa Del Ha-
The genuine article.
bano, hosted by BME. “We are fighting it, because it’s not fair for people to pay for something that’s not authentic, perhaps not even tobacco.” Sleiman said there were certain clues which could help buyers spot a counterfeit. “The majority of these fake cigars do not come in boxes, but bundles; Habanos does not do any cigars in bundles,” he said. “If it’s much less expensive than La Casa Del Habano, it’s not real; plus fakes tend not to have health warnings on them.” Atiq Mubarak, consumer protection specialist with the Dubai Department of Economic Development (DED), said he took such claims “very seriously”. “With fake cigars, there is of course the health issue as well as
the infringement of a trademark,” he noted. “When a trademark owner files such a complaint, we follow it up, find the counterfeit goods and ensure they are destroyed.”
Middle East talent measures up Culinary talent in the Middle East matches the standard of international culinary hubs, say some of the region’s top chefs. Commenting on Dubai’s Salon Culinaire, Beach Rotana sous chef Chamika Prabath said: “In terms of food art, the region is on a par with the US and Europe.” Yuphin Khocksila, chef de partie at Al Bustan Rotana Dubai’s Blue Elephant Restaurant, added that increased competition in recent years had
A chocolate carving at Salon Culinaire. spurred chefs on to new heights. “The environment here is very competitive, so there is always a need to offer something better,” she explained. “Also, the region is home to many nationalities; kitchen professionals must cater to different tastes, which I think helps make us more innovative.”
News analysis March 2010
Preparing pizza at Prego’s, Media Rotana.
Add a drop of drama As F&B competition heats up in the Middle East, outlets around the region are finding that adding some theatre to their dining experience goes a long way towards keeping the guests engaged and the offering competitive
A decade ago, a restaurant’s profile was relatively simple: be polite and provide a decent meal for your clientele. But now, Middle East diners expect a bit more bang for their buck. Today’s F&B outlets must simultaneously provide excellent food, service, style and value — all tied together with a pinch of theatre to bring the concept to life and create that all-important culinary ‘experience’ for the consumer. “We have noticed a trend in the last few years where diners expect much more than good food and service,” expanded Rosewood
8
Caterer Middle East March 2010
Corniche, Jeddah director of sales and marketing Shamel Droubi. “The Middle East region is especially rich in outstanding dining concepts, having seen a substantial influx of international brands and celebrity chef outlets over recent years,” he continued. “As such, we have to push ourselves to offer something different.” According to Parvinder Singh, assistant manager at The Chillout Lounge’s owning company, Sharaf Hospitality, F&B concepts must “continually evolve in order to provide
37
%
of operators believe the best way to add value to an outlet is by adding ‘fun’ components such as entertainment or live cooking. Source: www.hoteliermiddleeast.com
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
News analysis March 2010
customers with unique and innovative din- can interact with customers and engage with ing experiences”. them is vital.” “Being the first and so far only ice lounge It appears that outlets are aware they need in the UAE, Chillout provides a totally to add a bit of spice to their offering if they unique F&B experience for are to stand out and remain its patrons — and we do try to competitive; but how successWe have maximise that unique experiful are their efforts? ence,” he said. According to Media Rotana noticed a trend Show cooking is one method Dubai assistant director of in the last few F&B Adil Souate, there is “still commonly used to spice up years where Middle East outlets, as noted room for some improvement in by Emaar Hospitality Group this region”. diners expect corporate director of culinary “Although most of the allmuch more excellence Viktor Stampfer. day dining restaurants in the than good food region have live cooking, this “This can help enhance the image of a particular restaucould be enhanced by introand service” rant purely from the chef ’s inducing proper live stations that teraction with guests and the focus on specific cuisines. cooking display,” he explained. “And in terms of celebrity chef-endorsed “Most of the newer hotels and restaurants outlets, I do not see that working as a longhave incorporated live cooking stations into term attraction; these chefs are not around Keeping cool: Chillout Ice Lounge in Dubai. their outlet design, in order for their chefs to engage directly with customers.” Media Rotana Dubai assistant director of F&B Adil Souate added that “customers liked to be taken for a culinary journey”. “They love live stations, as it allows them to watch as their meal is expertly prepared in front of their eyes. It is always a bonus when this meal is prepared by a friendly chef who takes pride in explaining the dishes prepared and interacting with the guests,” he noted. At Rosewood Corniche, the Chinese restaurant Noodles gets even more interactive, with chopstick lessons and a kids area with a PlayStation to keep children busy; meanwhile, their parents are entertained by the traditional noodle preparation taking place in the open kitchen. But an outlet cannot just chuck these elements into the mix and hope they will work. As Emaar Hospitality’s Viktor Stampfer explained, “theatre has to fit within the overall restaurant concept”. “The location and theme of a restaurant dictates whether or not a certain concept will work,” he asserted. “And in order to further complement the theatre concept, hiring the right talent who An eye-catching demonstration in the open kitchen of Noodles Chinese restaurant at Rosewood Corniche, Jeddah.
“
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March 2010 Caterer Middle East
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News analysis March 2010
long enough to have any sustained impact on doing the basics things to perfection and ofthe restaurant,” claimed Souate. fering consistency are more important.” But Raffles Dubai general manager John Rosewood’s Droubi agreed it was imporPelling thinks the region’s restaurants “al- tant not to confuse theatre with gimmicks. ready do pretty well in terms of creating the“A high standard of food and quality cusatre”, and that it may in fact be tomer service must always be time to take a step back from at the heart of any F&B outI am not drama and look at the basics. let,” he asserted. “I am not convinced that convinced that But Sharaf Hospitality’s adding more interactive opSingh insisted the competitive adding more nature of the industry meant tions is what the market interactive needs,” he warned. “I think operators had to offer much the region has over-killed options is what more as well. the special chef appearance “The underlying idea should the market act, live cooking stations and be to engage the customer by needs” cooking classes. offering a variety of innovative “Creating an attractive eatelements which appeal to the ing experience is not rocket senses,” he insisted. science,” continued Pelling. “There should be a constant effort to en“The feedback we received from various gage the customer and customise the offerfocus groups prior to the realignment of Fire ing as per their needs; in the current climate, and Ice — and regarding the soon-to-be-re- that’s more necessary than ever if you want aligned The Noble House — indicated that your outlet to stand out.”
“
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Mystery shopper Burger restaurants
Service spy This month, Ethos Consultancy’s team of mystery shoppers went undercover at four of Dubai’s burger joints, and discovered that although the burger may be universal, sadly good service is not
This month:
Burger restaurants The chosen locations were:
• • •
• Gourmet Burger Kitchen, Dubai Marina Mall
The expert analysis:
• Fuddruckers, Jumeirah Beach Residence • Johnny Rockets, Mall of the Emirates • Fatburger, Dubai Mall
THE WHAT: Caterer Middle East has partnered up with customer service experts Ethos Consultancy to highlight F&B service standards at outlets across the UAE. Each month, we’ll reveal mystery shoppers’ assessments of four different F&B outlets, to explore what these venues are doing right and what could be improved. THE WHY: This isn’t about catching F&B outlets with their trousers down: by measuring performance and providing expert advice on areas for improvement, we want to help better these operations — and the industry in general. THE HOW: Ethos Consultancy’s trained mystery shoppers are given a specific selection of outlets. Each shopper visits their assigned restaurant and dines as usual. Within 24 hours of every experience, each shopper fills out an online report, providing Ethos consultants with the information they require to offer constructive advice.
12
Each mystery shopper is instructed to look out for the following:
Caterer Middle East March 2010
Appearance Sales and service Overall experience
This month’s Service Spy is all about service delivery at four of Dubai’s most popular and highly-frequented casualdining ‘burger joint’ concepts. Burger outlets have come a long way, that’s for sure. In terms of food, it’s all about choice with numerous variations on the classic burger making an appearance — Chilli, Cajun, Mexican and Satay are just some of the choices diners can find, although the ‘no frills’ classic is of course still an option. In terms of service, it’s a resounding ‘well done’ to Gourmet Burger Kitchen at Dubai Marina Mall. Scoring 95%, GBK takes first place. It was hard to fault this UK-based franchise, with most staff demonstrating friendly attitudes, great product knowledge and the confidence to up sell additional items to their customers. Unfortunately, one mystery shopper
was not greeted on arrival, or supplied with hot sauce after they were told it wouldn’t be a problem. This mystery shopper’s waiter simply forgot, which is an honest mistake, but it dropped the overall satisfaction level. Otherwise, this was a great report. American-born franchise Fuddruckers in Jumeirah Beach Residence takes second place, with an overall score of 86%. Again, it was great to see staff who were friendly and engaging. Product knowledge and quality of food were also both of a high standard. Unfortunately, none of the staff were wearing name tags and the tomato sauce at the salad bar was empty during one of the visits. Johnny Rockets, Mall of the Emirates came in third with 77%. Here, our shoppers had mixed reports. One was greeted in a warm and friendly manner, whereas another was not greeted at all. Not all waiters were wearing name tags either. However staff were confident about their products and able to suggest meal upgrades. Once ordered, food was delivered at a very efficient rate. One of our shoppers noted they received their meal in 4.5 minutes, which is very impressive.
Premises
Sales & Service
Did the location appear clean and tidy?
Were staff wearing a name tag?
How were you greeted by the staff?
Visit 1
Visit 2
Visit 1
Visit 2
Visit 1
Visit 2
Gourmet Burger Kitchen, Dubai Marina Mall
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Warm & genuine
Warm & genuine
Fuddruckers, Jumeirah Beach Residence
Yes
Yes
No
No
Warm & genuine
Warm & genuine
Johnny Rockets, Mall of the Emirates
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
Warm & genuine
No greeting
Fatburger, Dubai Mall
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Cold & mechanical
No greeting
Mystery shopper Burger restaurants
Premises
Overall Experience
Sales and Service
100
ABOUT ETHOS CONSULTANCY Originating in the UK in 1995, Ethos Consultancy relocated to Dubai in 2003, where a team of five has grown to 50 — with an Abu Dhabi office opening in 2008. Our consultants have come from some of the most mature customer service markets in the world, ensuring experience and best practice in everything we do. Ethos prides itself on being at the forefront of online customer service solutions and was awarded Most Innovative Small Business in the UAE at the 2008 Lloyds TSB Small Business Awards.
17%
49%
20
57%
71%
97%
100%
97%
84%
67%
97%
40
95%
60
100%
80
0
Gourmet Burger Kitchen
Fuddruckers
Finally, in last place, we have Fatburger, Dubai Mall with 42%. Although the food was praised, the service was disorganised and staff weren’t attempting to engage or be friendly towards our mystery shoppers. In one instance, there was a counterfull of people waiting to be served but no one knew who was next, as there was no number system or even an organised line. One of our shoppers became quite frustrated when a customer who appeared in line after him was served first. Good work on wearing name tags and demonstrating sound product knowledge, but not much else.
What could have been better? • Making an impression is all about attitude and customer engagement. Only 63%
Johnny Rockets
Fatburger
of staff across all burger restaurants visited were warm and friendly to their customer; 25% of all staff visited didn’t even make eye contact with the diner! • It’s great to see that most of our mystery shoppers were visited by a manager and asked how their meal was and if there was anything else they needed. This is a nice touch and affirms to customers that they are valued. However none of our shoppers were 100% sure that it was in fact a manager that visited their table. Why? None of these ‘managers’ introduced themselves or wore a name tag with their designation clearly labelled. Our shoppers were left to assume they were visited by a manager purely because that particular member of staff was in dif-
Sales & Service How long did you have to wait to be served?
Through years of experience, Ethos has developed a variety of services to help clients understand how their business is performing. Our solutions include mystery shopping, satisfaction surveys and a range of benchmarking services. Once clients have a clear understanding of how they are performing, we help them improve via training, consulting and implementation of The International Customer Service Standard.
ferent dress. If you’re making the effort to personally visit each table, make sure you do the job properly. Wear a name tag and introduce yourself — leave your customer with no doubt that the manager cared enough to speak with them personally to make sure their experience was exceptional. Overall Experience
Were staff knowledgeable about their products?
Did the staff try to up-sell additional food or drink items?
Would your experience encourage you to visit this outlet again or recommend it to others?
Visit 1
Visit 2
Visit 1
Visit 2
Visit 1
Visit 2
Visit 1
Visit 2
> 1 min
1-3 min
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
> 1 min
> 1 min
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
Yes
Yes
1-3 min
1-5 min
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
Yes
Yes
3-5 min
3-5 min
Yes
Yes
No
No
No
No
March 2010 Caterer Middle East
13
Editor’s comment Volume 6 Issue 03
Registered at Dubai Media City PO Box 500024, Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 (0)4 210 8000 Fax: +971 (0)4 210 8080 Offices in Dubai & London ITP Business Publishing CEO Walid Akawi Managing Director Neil Davies Deputy Managing Director Matthew Southwell Editorial Director David Ingham VP Sales Wayne Lowery Publishing Director Diarmuid O’Malley Editorial Senior Group Editor Gemma Greenwood Tel: +971 4 435 6262 email: gemma.greenwood@itp.com Editor Lucy Taylor Tel: +971 4 435 6275 email: lucy.taylor@itp.com Contributors Gemma Greenwood, Emma Chamberlain Advertising Publishing Director Diarmuid O’Malley Tel: +971 4 435 6163 email: dom@itp.com Commercial Director Sarah Worth Tel: +971 4 435 6374 email: sarah.worth@itp.com Int. Sales Manager, Hospitality & Catering Middle East & India Amanda Stewart GSM: +44 7908 117 333 email: amanda.stewart@itp.com Skype: amandajanestewart Studio Group Art Editor Dan Prescott Designer Lucy McMurray Photography Director of Photography Sevag Davidian Chief Photographer Khatuna Khutsishvili Senior Photographers G-nie Arambulo, Efraim Evidor, Thanos Lazopoulos Staff Photographers Isidora Bojovic, George Dipin, Lyubov Galushko, Jovana Obradovic, Ruel Pableo, Rajesh Raghav Production & Distribution Group Production Manager Kyle Smith Deputy Production Manager Matthew Grant Managing Picture Editor Patrick Littlejohn Image Editor Emmalyn Robles Distribution Manager Karima Ashwell Distribution Executive Nada Al Alami Circulation Head of Circulations & Database Gaurav Gulati Marketing Head of Marketing Daniel Fewtrell ITP Digital Director Peter Conmy ITP Group Chairman Andrew Neil Managing Director Robert Serafin Finance Director Toby Jay Spencer-Davies Board of Directors K M Jamieson, Mike Bayman, Walid Akawi, Neil Davies, Rob Corder, Mary Serafin Circulation Customer Service Tel: +971 4 435 6000 Certain images in this issue are available for purchase. Please contact itpimages@itp.com for further details or visit www.itpimages.com. Printed by Color Lines Controlled Distribution by Blue Truck
A need to network The first quarter of the year is, without a doubt, a prime networking time for those in the F&B industry. Early last month, the capital emirate played host to chef showcases and grand gala gatherings during the Michelinstar-studded Gourmet Abu Dhabi, following which the region’s culinary professionals flocked to Dubai for four days of Gulfood and Salon Culinaire fun; and now we have the mouth-watering Taste of Dubai to look forward to later this month, highlighting local restaurant talent and offering a platform for top chefs to share their foodie know-how with us humble consumers. This furore of foodie events attracts a wealth of culinary figures to the region, making it a regular hotbed of cheffing talent — and an excellent networking opportunity. With so many diverse cultures and companies represented by so many different people, this period offers an ideal opportunity for industry professionals to talk, share best practice and exchange advice. Or, at the very least, to enjoy a beverage while exchanging kitchen war stories. Either way, this succession of shows represents a vital part of the industry: the exchange of information. This is an ideal time for F&B professionals to discover new trends and market movements, to learn from the rest of the world and share and showcase some of its own considerable culinary expertise. In our recent Head Chef Survey, 64% of respondents said they believed this region had already attained the status of an international culinary hub — a surprisingly large figure, to my mind. This may not be the popular view, but I don’t think we’re quite there yet: to become a real force to be reckoned with, the Middle East needs to prove that it can not only launch but consistently maintain a strong food and beverage portfolio. Events such as those we are enjoying at the moment can help us make great strides towards this goal, not only by bringing the best of what the world has to offer in terms of F&B to the Middle East, but also by demonstrating to visitors just how far we have come in such a short time — and indeed how close we are to becoming a true international culinary hub. But the future of this region’s F&B scene relies on people and progress; only through talking, sharing and acting on new ideas can we move the market forward. So make the most of these culinary events: have some fun and get networking!
The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication, which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances. The ownership of trademarks is acknowledged. No part of this publication or any part of the contents thereof may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form without the permission of the publishers in writing. An exemption is hereby granted for extracts used for the purpose of fair review.
Lucy Taylor, Editor BPA Worldwide Circulation Statement Average Qualified Circulation 7,089 (Dec - Jun 2009)
Published by and Copyright © 2010 ITP Business Publishing,a division of the ITP Publishing Group Ltd.Registered in the B.V.I. under Company number 1402846.
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15
Comment Daniel During
During Daniel
Chains vs independents: Those mindlessly towing the corporate line are doing so at the expense of the region’s restaurant reputation It’s my opinion that Dubai has yet to establish itself as a true food-destination city — and one major issue hampering its progress is the fact that independent restaurants have been run with too much emphasis on making a rapid return on investment, at the expense of that essential passion for food. One business model that seems to thrive in Dubai is that of the chain or franchised restaurant. Think of your favourite restaurant outside of a hotel; chances are it has several branches across town, quite possibly one in every shopping mall. This model does have several advantages for the investor and operator. It basically offers a ‘restaurant in a box’: everything from the interiors, menus and uniforms to operational guidelines has already been set out in a series of corporate manuals. It allows new outlets to be opened fairly quickly with relatively low start-up costs, while from the consumer viewpoint, there’s the comfort of knowing what to expect. But the franchise model also has its drawbacks: its key strength, that ‘sameness’, is also its biggest weakness.
16
Are Middle East F&B operators afraid to try something different?
Caterer Middle East March 2010
People Chains target the largest market, so individuality or anything beyond the confines of the operational manual is discouraged. Employees are trained to follow strict procedures, but in the process, they are discouraged from catering to individual customers’ needs, as it would disrupt the flow. This can be frustrating for an employee with the motivation and the skill to excel, and it may increase employee dissent and turnover.
Product Franchise and chain menus are usually defined by the company’s head office, which means they are distanced from day-to-day operations. Consequently, it is difficult for franchises to respond to dynamic conditions, these being seasonal or micro-demographic. Additionally, to take advantage of economies of scale, many chains and franchises tend to use frozen produce purchased centrally and distributed globally. Sacrificing quality is therefore inevitable — and global distribution increases shipping traffic, thus affecting the carbon footprint.
The way forward There are several solutions to creating a reputable chain of restaurants with excellent food and service. When faced with expansion, it would be better to open unique restaurants, each of them with a personality of its own. Give each one a different menu, even a different name; set it up and give guidance to the local team, but
let the individual location chef run the show with passion. In larger corporations, where the investment comes from group level, there is the option to involve key managers and chefs onto a joint venture. Giving them a personal stake in the business translates into a strong will for the outlet to succeed. Some people may argue that it’s not all about stand-alone outlets: the region’s hotels have many high quality restaurants that are not franchises or chains. While these restaurants can certainly be better than chains, many are restricted by corporate constraints and overzealous executive chefs, who often limit the personality, flexibility and creativity of restaurant chefs. What Dubai really needs is more standalone restaurants with liquor licenses, such as those at Century Village, which are not as highly-regulated by the landlord. This allows the restaurants to be free to be as creative as they like. More Dubai hotels should also look at leasing their premises to individual restaurateurs and chefs. This will not only create more interesting restaurants, but also position the hotel as an F&B destination. I believe that when a customer goes to a chain or franchise, especially a foreign franchise, it is a slap in the face to those chefs and restaurateurs that promote creativity. Personally, I would rather take the risk and patronise new restaurants where passion and individuality are the core focus. I truly hope Dubai will be there soon. To read this article in full, please visit: www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b Daniel During is the managing partner at professional turnkey consultancy Thomas Klein Group; for more information, visit: www.thomaskleingroup.com
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
Comment Designer column
Nigel
Witham How to avoid the budget trap. Underestimating an outlet’s fit-out costs is a common occurrence but how you handle the reality could mean the difference between a venture’s success or failure Despite its reputation for generous budgets, the majority of new-project enquiries I receive from the Middle East are from costsensitive clients. I have found that these projects nearly always fall into what I call ‘the budget trap’. You should avoid this trap, no matter what the cost; it is the reason so many new F&B ventures fail. Here’s how the trap works: a would-be restaurateur has devised a concept and partly developed their sales offer. They have raised funds based on their own research or an estimate from a small contractor. It is unlikely they have done enough proper market analysis to find out if their concept is suited to the locality, nor analysed the competition to find out what they have to better, nor consulted a quantity surveyor. So they have prices and market opinion based on gut feeling and can’t really know what customers want or what it’ll cost. On this basis, they cannot accurately predict their break-even — but they still go forward and produce a business forecast. Next they find a suitable architect or designer specialising in food outlets. Most of these specialist designers are cautious, as they have seen the budget trap before; this caution makes the client suspicious. The specialist designer discusses the project, analyses local competitors and estimates the construction budget should be, for example, US $4000 per square metre.
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At this stage, based on other similar experiences, the designer may express concerns about the viability of the concept. They may say it is pitched too low to the market and the cost per metre should be higher, putting the set up costs and break-even out of reach. The client, being suspicious, considers this advice — but has a budget of $2000 per square metre. They haven’t fitted a restaurant professionally before, but still they assume the specialist designer is wrong, or advising them to spend more out of self-interest. They don’t see the need to use specialist fitout contractors or a quantity surveyor to get the most out of the expert design. These matters may not be discussed openly, but the parties still agree to go ahead — the client believing the designer has overstated costs and the designer thinking they have advised the client fairly about much they are going to have to invest.
F&B developers are easily lured into the budget trap.
The budget trap has now been set. The project proceeds and the designer produces remarkable drawings with which the client is happy. Next the designer suggests some specialist fit-out contractors to build the outlet properly and asks them to tender. A specification is drawn up by a quantity surveyor including many items that the client, being inexperienced, forgot to include in their original sums. The tenders are returned and they are all around $4000 per square metre: double the funds the client has raised but in line with the designer’s predictions. Guess what happens next? Well, if there isn’t a dispute, then the design gets cut back. The costs of providing basic services to the restaurant, such as heating, ventilation, kitchens and toilets, are always about 65% of the total. These costs can’t be reduced; they have been designed to minimum building codes. So the cuts happen in the furnishings, light fittings, decorations, support systems, brand design and marketing. The project is built — but the budget trap has been sprung. The outlet does not come up to the standard of the incumbent competition, let alone better them. It’s not remarkable or memorable, so customers do not come; and if they do, they are unimpressed and don’t return. Negative word spreads quickly these days because of social networking. The venture fails, sometimes within weeks, and all the investment is lost. The budget trap closes. Nigel Witham is a chartered designer who has been running his own international design practice for 20 years. For more information, email: nigel@nigelw.com
March 2010 Caterer Middle East
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February 2010
People Training
s l a n i f e e n Trai final-year spitality Management’s Ho of my de ca A s te Emira of their course ate culinary challenge im ult e th ce fa ts en ud st
[Far left] The
students get cooking. [Left] Baqer
Mohebi Est was showcasing its
Habanos Cuban
cigars at the fair.
THE FACTS
Who? Final-year hospitality students.
Where? The Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management in Dubai. What? The Academy’s first ever student food fair and dinner.
Why? A final test of the trainees’ culinary creativity prior to graduation.
Final-year student Komal Gidwani shares his views on the success and benefits of the event:
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“To start with, our whole year group was divided into three teams; each group was told they had to create a six-course gourmet dinner for 30 guests. “We as a team had to create our own menu. The focus was on variety and quality of ingredients, as well as the creativity and originality of dishes on our menu. “The most enjoyable part of this experience was definitely when we all practiced our dishes in the kitchen. Some of us got a bit confused with all the equipment and ingredients, but it was a lot of fun! Also, I really enjoyed the event itself, when we finally executed the menu we had put so much thought into. “There were a few challenging moments too, of course; plating up perfect dishes for 30 guests wasn’t easy, and making sure the
Caterer Middle East March 2010
food stayed hot until it reached the guest was tricky. “F&B is an important part of any hospitality training, and this experience has been extremely enjoyable and beneficial. “It has not only increased my culinary knowledge, but also helped me understand how to adapt when working in particularly highpressure situations.” www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b www w ww w w.h .ho ho h ote ttel ellier e ier ie ermid mid mi ddle dl eas dl asst.c t.c t. com/f&b om om/ m/ff&b m/ &b
February 2010
People Training
[Left & above] Careful preparations yielded great results.
[Right] Greenhouse dis-
[Above] Wet Fish also had a stand in the market place; managing director Mark
Allan noted: “It’s important to give recognition to a group of students who’ve set
played a range of luxury items; deputy managing
themselves up for intense scrutiny.”
director Emile Wilson
Moukarzel said he be-
[Left] Another supplier supporting the event was RAW Coffee Company, which
lieved it was “important
to support those start-
often visits the academy to teach students about coffee and barista duties.
ing out in the industry”.
Lecturer’s notes
chael Kitts f and senior lecturer Mi The Academy’s head che llenge the inaugural student cha shares his feedback on
The Academy’s Michael Kitts and Helen Morris judged the student efforts.
1765 Gemini
showcased a range of cutlery and kitchen implements. www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
dents with ve as a way to provide stu We introduced this initiati l. every element of a mea first-hand experience of the students e tim h days, during whic The elective ran for 20 ents of ms — studied various elem — divided into three tea meal finally hosting a six-course a meal, with each group three days. for thirty covers across meant that on each of the ent The food fair elem a ‘marsts were welcomed into three dinner dates, gue a stroll of the evening, to enjoy ket place’ at the start rs. plie sup top from Dubai’s round a handful of stalls eral at suppliers was gre — sev The sheer support of the included next year! have already asked to be were ely impressed; the meals Overall, we were extrem husiasm from all involved outstanding, and the ent job so satisfying. is exactly what makes my
March 2010 Caterer Middle East
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Sponsored by
Roundtable Menu development
Balancing act A select group of chefs took time out from their busy schedules last month to join Caterer Middle East and roundtable sponsor Nestlé Professional at the newlyopened Bonnington Jumeirah Lakes Towers, for a friendly mystery basket cookoff and a candid discussion on the trials and tribulations of menu development
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[L-R] Thushan Don, Paul Lupton, Eicke Christian, Franck Detrait, Christophe Prud’homme, Kevin Pohl, Chrisma Antono and Antonio Dominicis prepare for The Seasonal Challenge — a mystery box cooking competition hosted by Nestlé Professional and Caterer Middle East. Catte Ca Caterer ere rer M Mi Middle id dd dlle eE East ast Ma as March arc ch 20 2 2010 01 10 0
www w ww www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b ww w w.h ho h ote ot te tel ellie ier errmid e rmid midd ddl dle d lle ee ea eas ast.c as t. om/f&b
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What are the key factors to remember when developing a new menu? Christophe Prud’homme: First and foremost, you have to look at the concept of the restaurant; then you consider the season, what products you can actually access in the relevant country, and of course the final main factor is whether your staff can cook these dishes. Because you can put together the best-sounding menu in the world, but if you don’t have staff who can make it correctly, it’s not worth spending money on the items. Paul Lupton: In an outlet that may not have a single concept, you must keep the offering changing all the time. It’s not so much about sticking to one set menu, but rather using the best of what you’ve got.
When developing a menu, do you have much creative freedom or is it all about the budget nowadays? Thomas Gagliardi: For most chefs that is the reality, but the end goal has to be what makes it onto the plate and what the guest wants. But it very much depends on the proposition; there are some restaurants that operate at a loss and that’s expected. They know you’re going to have higher costs because your job is to wow guests — it’s about bragging rights. Whereas if you’re more business-oriented, part of a major international hotel chain, they’re going to be looking carefully at the figures, definitely. But any chef has to just work their way through that and look at the end result. Prud’homme: You can be in either a positive or a negative spiral, it totally depends on which way you want to be and the volume of your operation. But certainly having a large events and banqueting department allows you to give more money to restaurants. If you have 1000 covers at a banquet downstairs, you can run lobster upstairs and you’re laughing. It’s about striking a balance between your business sense and your business needs. Nowadays you have hotels where you can eat and drink all you want for AED 99, so to remain competitive you have to know your position: whether you want to battle for price, volume or profit. You can cut costs somewhere, but you’re always going to have to balance that out somewhere else; that is our job nowadays. Food activity has become a financial activity, because the bottom line is that you have to give your results to your financial director at the end of the month. For what reasons might you bring in a new menu? Eicke Christian: Of course there are seasonal patterns, and perhaps if you have non-performing elements a change is advisable, but there’s also the fact that you need to retain an element of surprise; you need to keep bringing in new items, otherwise your guests get bored. You need to keep the menu fresh, especially if you’re looking to build a strong repeat clientele. It’s all very well to continue doing something you’re good at, but if
Taking part • Thomas Gagliardi, executive chef, Bonnington Jumeirah Lakes Towers • Eicke Christian, head chef, Terra Firma, Al Badia Golf Club • Paul Lupton, head chef, Rhodes Mezzanine, Grosvenor House Dubai • Franck Detrait, chef de cuisine, Traiteurs, Park Hyatt Dubai • Thushan Don, executive chef, Dubai Marina Yacht Club • Kevin Pohl, head chef, The Observatory, Marriott Harbour Hotel • Christophe Prud’homme, executive chef, Al Bustan Rotana Dubai • Antonio Dominicis, chef de cuisine, La Moda, Radisson Blu Dubai Deira Creek • Zain Sidhu, advisory chef, Nestlé Professional
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b www.ho www .ho .hotel hotel telier iermid ier mid id ddle dleea eas asst. t com t.c om/ om m//f& m f&b &b
March 2010 Caterer Middle East
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Sponsored by
Roundtable Menu development
omas Gagliardi. h Lakes Towers’ Th Bonnington Jumeira
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Rhodes Mezzanine’s Paul Lupton.
it continues along exactly the same path, one day someone will copy you and do it better, and then you’re out. Antonio Dominicis: But it can be difficult to make a change, because guests will come in and ask ‘where has this gone?’ So when I change things, I make sure I keep a few of the favourite items. Changing the menu does depend on your guests; are they ready and willing to make this change? Will your new offering suit their needs? It’s not just about what you want.
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What are the key challenges you face when it comes to developing a new menu? Gagliardi: Vendor consistency — what you can get regularly. I can’t put something on the menu if they can’t guarantee delivery. I’ve already got rid of three vendors at this point, good ones too, but if they can’t get me that same product I’ll have to change the menu, because I can’t use a supplier who promises me something that doesn’t turn up until two weeks later. Unfortunately that scenario is constant in this market.
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Lupton: A main part of my day is making sure I have the produce for that night’s service — and I do sometimes end up running down to the shops at the last minute to buy extra items because they haven’t arrived, just to make sure the menu’s on.
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Caterer Middle East March 2010
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Menu development
Gagliardi: In other parts of the world suppliers are hungry for business, but the way the mentality has been here, suppliers are very laid back. Even now, in this climate, you can place an order for various products and they won’t tell you if they haven’t got something; you’ll just find out it’s not there when the order turns up.
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Dominicis: In other regions, you have suppliers knocking at your door all day long pitching their wares. Here, if you don’t call, they don’t come. Gagliardi: You’d think it would have become a buyer’s market in the current economic state, but that’s simply not the case. Zain Sidhu: I agree that building up a solid relationship with a supplier can be tough; and it’s tricky because both parties need each other. The chefs need consistency on a daily basis, and if your supplier can’t deliver that on a daily basis you’re in a tricky position. Unfortunately, if items are coming in from abroad — as is often the case in this part of the world — sometimes there is a situation with transport or the weather and a shipment simply does not arrive on time. Gagliardi: I think frustrations have got the better of most of us after about six months. You don’t want to fight, you just want to focus on getting the products that you need for the menu, getting it done right and done well. You have to adapt; it’s not worth the aggravation Terra Firma’s not to. That does perhaps mean Eicke Christian. you have to compromise on what you put on your menu, but it does not mean you compromise in any way regarding quality. I won’t serve it at all if I can’t do it right.
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Lupton: I’m quite lucky because I’ve just got dinner at an à la carte restaurant to look after, and that’s my only concern: that the menu’s full and the restaurant’s got everything it needs. But even then it’s
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Detrait. Traiteur’s Franck
Dubai M arina Y acht Clu b’s Thus han
not easy and you do have to fight with suppliers quite a lot. When I arrived here it took me six months to get used to how things worked, six months’ fighting to improve it, and now slowly we are seeing things get better. But it’s still way behind other places.
Don.
Bustan Rotana’s Christophe Prud’homme. Al Bust
time, that’s a good incentive. It’s about building up a strong relationship and one that is based on trust.
Lupton: What I find quite difficult though is the variety of ingredients available here. I can tell you about 100 different suppliers Prud’homme: But there are good and bad who can get you Wagyu beef, but if I ask for some curly kale or fresh things about everywhere you work in the forced rhubarab, they don’t know what you’re talking about. world; if it wasn’t this challenge, it’d be I’d love to be able to make my menu more diverse by putting some something else. of these really interesting items on, but even if you could Wherever you work, get it it wouldn’t be consistent. Everyone just focuses on We might like those main items that they can make money on. you have to establish good relations with to be artists, but your supplier for your the bottom line is Kevin Pohl: Another issue is of course that often nowadays, chefs do not conduct their own negotiations menu to work, and with suppliers — instead it’s the purchasing departthere has to be give and you have to fill ment. They won’t push for something if they are told take on both sides. the restaurant” straight off that it’s not available here, but if they don’t Sidhu: I think you have to have the drive to push for products to be made availgive suppliers certain targets to able, how is the ingredient pool here ever going to widen? achieve, and then take care of Prud’homme: I think a lot of suppliers here are working around the them in return. I’m not talk50 biggest-selling items, which is where they can make their profit. ing financially, but rather They cannot bring in rhubarb every week if only one hotel is going by letting them know to buy it, because they will end up with a load left over going off in they’re your preferred the garbage. supplier. Of course, you’re going to have Are there any items that you would rather not put on number two and numthe menu, but customers demand them? ber three as back-up, Gagliardi: That depends on the concept in the restaraunt, but for but if a supplier knows international restaurants and room service menus here you have to he is your number one Nestlé Professional’s Zain Sidhu. have a mezze plate of some sort and you have to have a mixed grill, choice as long as he gets or you will get complaints. everything to you on
“
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b ww www ww.ho otelier tel elier iermid ie middleeas mid asst.c a com/ m/f&b m/ f&b f& b
March 2010 Caterer Middle East
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Sponsored by
Roundtable Menu development
Sidhu: There are certain things for all hotels that you just have to offer, like a club sandwich. Even if you don’t put that on a room service menu, you have to be prepared to serve it, because it will inevitably be ordered. Prud’homme: It’s the same with having strawberries on the breakfast buffet — you simply have to have them. If there is a shipment delay and they are not there, you get questions. Since the economic downturn, ‘value’ has become a consumer buzzword; how has this impacted your menus? Gagliardi: I think it comes down to compromising on the products we’re using. And of course that does not mean compromising on quality of the dishes, but rather accepting that some products are not an option. For example, not having Wagyu on your menu, but having a different cut. Christian: I think it’s also about living up to the concept of your restaurant, as well as acting within your means. We are a top-quality steak restaurant, so we have to deliver on that. Franck Detrait: When we developed the new menu for Traiteur, I did have to play around with the balance of dishes. It wasn’t a problem for
Kevin Pohl. The Observatory’s
The group debates the problems of long-term rent contracts.
Caterer Middle East March 2010
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
Sponsored by
Roundtable Menu development
me to have a high cost for scallops, because I sell a lot of onion soup and that’s not expensive to make. But you have to continuously play with this set-up to make sure you have the right balance. Thushan Don: You have to monitor the success through sales software which charts exactly how popular each dish is. Then that is something that you must take into account when redeveloping the menu. So not only can you see the success of a new menu, you can see how the business is going overall. So if people suddenly change from ordering three courses to just having a main, you know you have to restructure things. It also helps by indicating the areas where service staff need to focus on upselling. Of course, if you have a new menu, it takes a little bit of time for people to get used to it. Gagliardi: I think within a quarter you’re going to have a fair idea of how the menu is working. Christian: I would say a quarter is already a bit too long, if something’s not quite working; within the first month you can probably tell if something is working or not, and if it’s not you can change it right away. Dominicis: But then it’s hard to tell nowadays. Before the downturn, all outlets were busy, but there just isn’t the same number of people eating out now and certainly not the same spend. So covers have decreased — which means its been difficult to tell whether it’s your menu having a negative impact or just the slowdown.
Radisson B lu Dubai D eira Creek ’s Antonio D ominicis.
Gagliardi: It’s basically about the investors at that point; we might like to be artists, but the bottom line is that we want to take home our pay cheque, so we have to fill up the restaurant. For chefs today it’s a lot about the business and admin side. We only spend about 20% of our time in the kitchen, if we’re lucky — which is a shame, because you can lose touch.
The group discusses menu challenges in the private dining room of The Cavendish restaurant, at Bonnington Jumeirah Lakes Towers.
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
March 2010 Caterer Middle East
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Industry insight Food costs
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Caterer Middle East March 2010
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
Industry insight Food costs
The bigger picture In a region where almost all ingredients must be imported from abroad, Middle East chefs have had to make their peace with the price of produce; but what about the environmental costs of this all-imported diet?
I
t is a truth universally acknowledged — at least by chefs — that if you want top-quality ingredients in the Middle East, you have to order them in from abroad. In a region where so few foodstuffs can be purchased locally, it is only natural that ingredient costs are much higher than other parts of the world, such as
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Europe or the US, where locally-produced foodstuffs are ready available and increasingly prized. As Shangri-La’s complex F&B director in Abu Dhabi Ahmed Issa notes, the situation applies to kitchens across the GCC. “If you have a French restaurant, a Chinese restaurant, whatever, those ingredients need to come from abroad to be authentic,” he points out. “And even aside from living up to the theme of your outlet, if you want something simple like tomatoes, you have to source them elsewhere because they are not really grown here.” Christian Jean, executive chef for the Renaissance Doha City Center Hotel, Courtyard by Marriott Doha City Center and Marriott Executive Apartments Doha City Center in Qatar, all currently in pre-opening stages, adds: “Some Gulf countries import as much as 90% of their food products, as they are not available locally; and catering to an international clientele, you have to ensure quality and choice are there at all times.” Clearly the high food costs here are nothing new; but what about the environmental costs of all this ‘ordering in’? The practice of shipping or flying everything into the region obviously has environmental repercussions — and where other countries have turned to the home-grown market, it is unlikely that the inter-
March 2010 Caterer Middle East
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Industry insight Food costs
Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri’s Ahmed Issa. national array of outlets in this region could or would do the same. So is there any way this food-fuelled carbon footprint could change in future? Dider Gusching has worked as a chef in the UAE for many years, and is known for his pioneering efforts in growing his own produce. Now executive chef at the Kempinski Hotel Ajman, Gusching retains an optimistic view about the future of the region’s food footprint. “This is certainly my sensitive point — the issue of local products,” he admits. “Local resources can and already have started being developed, but the UAE still has a lot of land and great potential to extend the reach of local cultivation. “We are increasingly seeing chefs in the region growing their own herbs and even vegetables, which of course has an effect on their food costs as well as delivering the incomparable quality of freshly-harvested herbs and vegetables.” Renaissance’s Jean agrees: “I really hope that in the next couple of years the Middle East region will invest more in their own agricultural development. “We can see a trend for example in
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Caterer Middle East March 2010
Sofra Bld at the Shangri-La Hotel, Qaryat Al Beri.
What is the most expensive food item for you to import? “When we buy black truffles, they costs me AED 8000 per kilo. These are mainly used in our French restaurant, Bord Eau. Of course the food costs here compared to other regions, such as Europe, are much higher. And that’s not something that can change in future, because in this market the demand for luxury items such as truffles will always be there, and we cannot produce them locally.” Ahmed Issa, complex F&B director, Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri “The most expensive food items we will import once the three properties ehre in Doha are operational will be seafood and fish from Europe, New Zealand and Australia, as well as top-quality meat from America. Quality is our top priority.” Christian Jean, executive chef, Renaissance Doha City Center Hotel, Courtyard by Marriott Doha City Center and Marriott Executive Apartments Doha City Center “Seafood is the most expensive thing to buy in — basically everything of quality that comes from the deep blue comes at a fairly high price.” Salah Sabra, executive sous chef, Mövenpick Hotel Kuwait
Saudi Arabia and Syria where they are cultivating fruits and vegetables. Hopefully soon more countries will join in.” However this plan is not as straightforward as it might seem, as The Monarch Dubai executive chef Ademir Husagic points out. “The fact is that we are living in a desert environment. There is not much local produce so you have no choice but to import 98% of the food and beverage products used in the GCC countries to meet the demand here. “To desalinate sea water to make the desert green and plant strawberries is a nice idea, but it wouldn’t really help. The energy used — which also leaves a high CO² footprint — could not be balanced out by the end result. “In other words, there is no alternative to shipping in products in the foreseeable future,” he asserts. According to Mövenpick’s Sabra, the answer is simply to keep on top of new developments and best practice. “Environmental repercussions differ from country to country and it is our job to know how to go with the flow and
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Industry insight Food costs
adapt our kitchens and cooking habits to it,” he says. “I personally don’t believe that the situation will change any time soon though. “Right now customer demand for these imported products is high, so we have to strive for more and keep on introducing new flavours — which necessarily requires us to import more diverse foodstuffs.” The environmental future of food may be looking uncertain, but in terms of product diversity and supplier support, things are looking up, according to Shangri-La’s Issa. Issa — responsible for operations at Traders Hotel, the Shangri-La Residences and The Villas by Shangri-La, as well as the Shangri-La Hotel Qaryat Al Beri — says since the economic downturn, suppliers have become “much more willing to assist and negotiate”. “There was a chain reaction, from the consumer to the operator to the supplier. So we all had to use this opportunity to negotiate and get prices a bit lower,” he explains. Meanwhile Mövenpick’s Sabra says it’s about looking for suppliers who can provide “the same high quality at a more reasonable price”. “But if there is a certain ingredient that doesn’t have a substitute, then no matter how expensive it is we will have to get it,” he admits. So what does the future hold in terms of ingredient costs: will prices rise as the market recovers? And will green measures like kitchen gardens become more common, or will such efforts be drowned out by customers clamouring for French cheeses and Spanish fois gras?
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The Monarch Dubai’s Ademir Husagic.
Industry insight Food costs
THE SOAPBOX Mövenpick Hotel Kuwait executive sous chef Salah Sabra addresses the issue of food cost percentages: “The food cost percentage is not stable — it’s more like a yo-yo right now. During some seasons it goes up high and other seasons it goes down, and it is definitely not satisfying at all having to work in a kitchen that is not stable. It is of course made harder by the fact that the outcome needs to be the same no matter what happens. The fact that the capabilities helping you reach target change every now and then means you must be very good at planning and rearranging, to make sure that the guests do not feel the difference.”
Kempinski’s Gusching says there is “definitely a need to change and adapt” in the region’s restaurants. “We need to focus on what is and what can be grown and harvested locally. Sometimes we ignore these resources, but we should not as they can help lower the cost of our ingredients as well as reduce our carbon footprint,” he asserts. Meanwhile Marriott’s Jean predicts food costs in 2010 will reflect 2009 figures. “In the long term, it would be great seeing more local products in the shelves,” he agrees. “But guests are looking for quality products and are willing to pay for this quality. “In order to provide them with these top quality products, we have to import items — and that will continue to reflect on our food costs,” he notes. But Mövenpick’s Sabra suggests that the region is currently in limbo, with purchasers waiting to see how things will pan out once the dust of the economic downturn has settled. “When the financial crisis starts to calm down, the international standards will start to stabilise, which will eventually be reflected onto us, and our food costs will start balancing,” he predicts. “The real question is, will that balance be higher or lower than before Marriott’s Christian Jean. the downturn?”
Caterer Middle East March 2010
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Outlet showcase Ember
Design details
“The great thing about this outlet is because of the way it’s been laid out in various sectors, as soon as you have a handful of people in it looks busy; there’s a good atmosphere. And people like that, it makes them feel comfortable.”
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Caterer Middle East March 2010
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
Outlet showcase Ember
Inside outlets
Seeking out the hottest new F&B outlets, Caterer Middle East reveals the innovative concepts and operation strategies securing the success of the region’s new launches
“If you’re developing a new concept, you need to be innovative and different: it doesn’t help to follow others. To be the best you cannot be a competitor, you have to set your own trends.”
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Ember at The Address Dubai Mall is a concept which has taken its time in the developmental stages, only officially launching last month — but the unique new offering has been well worth the wait. Explaining the “fashionable yet accessible” concept, restaurant manager Derek Maloney observes: “It’s really very unique — different from any other restaurant in the Middle East. “We wanted it to be the best grill restaurant in Dubai. The outlet has an open-plan kitchen, a central restaurant area and a separate lounge at one end. Everything was meticulously planned well in advance so every element would work together,” he explains. The hotel’s F&B director, Domenico Iannone, adds: “Ember was developed over the course of many months, and actually went completely away from the original idea for the restaurant, which was an Australian theme. We built up this concept, the menu, the service and the whole ethos slowly, in response to the market.” According to Maloney, this in-depth planning has ensured a smooth launch for the property’s destination restaurant. “A big help for us was that we had the staff on board so early, so they went and trained in various other outlets at our Address properties here,” he adds. The restaurant is targeting a wide market, from the fashionable young clientele drawn by the link to Dubai Mall’s Fashion Avenue — there is a restaurant entrance via Bloomingdale’s — through to families, who are catered for with various sharing options. Despite this high-end appeal, Iannone notes that meeting customer demand for value was a primary concern. “When our chef arrived, the first thing we discussed was that we wanted to do something fashionable, upmarket, but still value for money,” he explains.“We want people to come here and have a brilliant experience, but have it at a reasonable price.”
March 2010 Caterer Middle East
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Ingredient focus Seafood
Hammour time
Local seafood supplies are running low according to industry experts, but restaurants continue to broaden their offerings thanks to imports. Ben Watts speaks to suppliers and chefs to find out what is driving demand
Seafood has been an intrinsic part of Arabian cuisine for centuries, “Prices have been affected, but as Caviar House and Prunier deals but with increasing numbers of hotels and restaurants, chefs are in the luxury market, the demand has still been strong.” shifting from local to international markets to source their seafood. However Royal Culimer’s Tollenaar predicts that many catches Radisson Blu Hotel, Kuwait executive chef Daniel Mayor comwill become more expensive in future. ments: “The UAE, Oman and Qatar have an increasingly strong “The intensive farming of shrimps, for example, requires portfolio of seafood outlets. serious financing and as the banks are not provid“The seafood market, however, relies heavily on iming credit, many farmers simply cannot buy baby ports to cover all the needs of the Gulf region,” he conshrimps to grow,” he A large part tinues. “For a five-star hotel with international guests, points out. “This will eventuof all seafood is it is not possible to exclusively use local seafood as the ally result in lower volumes selection would be too limited for guest expectations.” and higher prices.” imported, but Demand for seafood in other Middle East markets sold as local fish” But Rotana’s Bischoff says has also been affected by the recent financial crisis, demand for crustaceans such asserts Beach Rotana Abu Dhabi executive chef as shrimps continues to grow. Patrick Bischoff. “Crustaceans are becoming “It is obvious that people are more cost-conscious at the moment trendier at the moment, especially lobster and therefore demand for seafood dishes has not really increased and shrimps,” he notes. “Oysters are also lately,” says Bischoff. “As a result, prices for seafood have definitely becoming more popular, with simple increased since the start of the global economic crisis.” preparation methods preferred But some suppliers, such as Royal Culimer general manager Jeover anything complicated.” roen Tollenaar, refute this suggestion, claiming prices have remained Over-fishing supply realistic and in tune with demand. Despite a number of “Seafood prices have hardly been affected by the financial crisis,” suppliers today offering he asserts. “Most Middle Eastern markets have access to the open ‘sustainable’ seafood sea and therefore there is a nice range of seafood available. products, concerns “But products such as lobster and king crab have not become remain regarding the cheaper, because of a decreasing number of people spending less issue of over-fishing. money in restaurants. Freshly Frozen “Demand for seafood is more or less linked to the number of tourFoods general manists and festive seasons,” he adds. “It’s up to chefs and suppliers to ager Densil Quadros discuss mutual expectations to avoid shortage or overstock.” remarks: “Seafood Caviar House and Prunier managing director Nicolas Rubeiz says Royal Culimer general prices have not been that all along the supply chain, clients and suppliers have had to manager Jeroen Tollenaar. overly affected by the adapt in order to “moderate the effects of the crisis”. global crisis, but have “Everyone has had to be very specific, in terms of logistics and remained constant or stock management, in order to minimise the impact at the consumer are slightly increasing. level,” remarks Rubeiz.
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Caterer Middle East March 2010
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
Ingredient focus Seafood
Beach Rotana Abu Dhabi executive chef Patrick Bischoff. “The main reason for this is depleting catches and an increase in demand from developing countries.” Royal Culimer’s Tollenaar shares similar concerns, noting that most fish have two things in common: “They get smaller and fewer”. “Ruthless over-fishing and wrong catching methods are seriously affecting local fishery,” notes Tollenaar. “Also, a large part of all seafood available is already imported, but sold as local fish. Freshwater fish such as pangasius or basa, for example, are being sold as hammour, a salt water fish, which is immoral and illegal.” Freshly Frozen Foods’ Quadros says that while many products are being imported, the region still has excellent local opportunities.
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“Catches off Middle East shores have always been renowned as some of the world’s cleanest,” he says. “There are pristine waters with rich natural breeding grounds for variety of species. “Consequently, up to this day, people have enjoyed the region’s natural resources. But the growing demand for seafood choices means imported items have to come in. Today most seafood sold in the Middle East is imported — very little is processed and most local seafood is consumed locally,” he continues. “Due to strict regulations from the authorities, the quality is much better than in nearby regions.” However Rotana’s Bischoff believes there should be stronger laws in place. “There is an over-fishing situation locally at the moment
Ingredient focus Seafood
Daniel Mayor, executive chef at the Radisson Blu Hotel, Kuwait. and there should be stronger fishing regulations issued by governments in the region,” he asserts.
Healthy supply While concerns remain regarding the over-fishing of seafood products locally, chefs based in the Middle East are lucky enough to have a wide variety of products to hand. This is vital in order to satisfy increasing consumer demand — due in part to the health factor, which consumers are becoming ever more aware of, according to Freshly Frozen Foods’ Quadros. “Consumer awareness on how to improve their health by eating
seafood is rising,” he remarks. “In order to meet this increasing demand, especially for seasonal catches, exporters are finding the best way to manage this is by expanding their seafood production through aquaculture.” Despite sustainability becoming an increasing concern when it comes to top-end seafood, chefs in the Middle East have found themselves in the privileged position of being able to source many traditional — and unusual — seafood offerings. With ongoing care and attention to sustainably sourcing fish and seafood items, the Middle East may yet become one of the world’s great seafood destinations.
The region’s new and exciting addition to your calendar of professional events
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22-24 November 2010 Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Centre, UAE Contact us to secure your 25% Welcome Discount when booking before 26th March 2010. Email: info@sialme.com or info@ipa-me.com Supported by
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Supplier news March 2010
Supplier news
Caffeine buzz for Dubai beverage staff Beverage training session brings Dubai staff up to date with latest global trends and techniques F&B professionals in Dubai were given the chance to sharpen their coffee knowledge at a series of training sessions last month. Ghaith Zeidan, beverage sales manager from organiser Fresh Express, said the sessions at Bonnington Jumeirah Lakes Towers were a “great chance” for Dubai’s beverage workers to learn new skills and find out about current trends. “Beverage staff have come a long way in the past couple of years,” asserted Zeidan. “Supplier companies today focus on training the people who handle their products.” The sessions included lessons on coffee machine maintenance, coffee culture and coffee cocktail preparation. Zeidan noted that maintenance training was of significant importance for baristas. “By cleaning a coffee machine regularly it will last longer and not have to be changed every couple of years,” he pointed out. Training sessions were conducted by brand managers from Cafés Richard,
Michael McCauley from Cafés Richard addresses the beverage training session attendees. Monbana and Monin, whose sales and marketing director Jeremy Coulbeck noted: “Training is an ongoing tool that needs to be continually updated and enhanced to meet changing trends and consumer demands.
“Here in the MENA region it is up to the corporate executives to drive training for their back-of-house employees, so that these staff have the skills to meet trends and serve up what the customer wants.”
No-frills kitchen launched at capital show Kitchen supplier Better Life Appliances and Accessories has used the glamorous Gourmet Abu Dhabi event as a platform to launch its latest kitchen design for the Middle East market.
The new SieMatic S2 kitchen.
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
The SieMatic S2 kitchen, a minimalist high-end offering featuring handleless units, was on show at the Abu Dhabi culinary event, where chef demonstrations showed how to utilise the functional kitchen.
Ajai Dayal, head of retail and marketing at Easa Saleh Al Gurg Group, of which Better Life is a member, said: “This is a quite stunning kitchen that has a look like no other and a design that manages to put square pegs into round holes. “It’s difficult to imagine which came first, the form or the function — the look is even more minimalist than [earlier model] the S1, but the principles are very similar.” SieMatic Middle East managing director Rainer Ebert added: “Gourmet Abu Dhabi has an excellent reputation and you couldn’t ask for a better atmosphere. “The calibre of people taking part in the event knew automatically that this is a kitchen with a professional’s skills in mind.”
March 2010 Caterer Middle East
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Show review Gulfood
Satisfying appetites In the lead-up to Gulfood 2010, organisers promised an offering bigger and better than ever before — and this year’s edition of the region’s largest F&B trade show did not disappoint Gulfood 2010 faced a tough task, living up to expectations of a In Zabeel Hall, Koma Middle East general manager, commercial bigger, better show than ever before; but exhibitor and visitor Marc Doublichevitch also felt that the number of visitors he hed responses indicate that this year’s edition was a huge success. seen “did not seem to be as large as the last few years”, but added With multiple new elements and interactive initiatives introthat the quality of the clientele had been exceptionally high. duced, as well as more exhibitors than ever before, the main chal“We had less visitors, but more prospects,” he explained. lenge for companies was drawing visitor attention — Doublichevitch had also seen extremely positive but the majority rose to the occasion admirably. feedback regarding Koma’s latest product launch. Premium chocolate brand Valrhona’s consultant for “For the Middle East, we have a new product comToday it’s all the region, Gérard Hugon, explained: “We were there ing online. It’s basically our H-Cabinet with a small to show what chefs can do with our chocolate and modification, so that within one unit you can have a about healthoffer support via recipes and suggestions, which we oriented, sugar- shock-freezing compartment, a freezing compartment showcased with live cooking demonstrations. and a fridge compartment,” he said. free products” “Gulfood is a very interesting exhibition for us,” he “Even though this was unfortunately not quite ready continued. “When we first came here, you had a lot of for the show, we have had many enquries and a lot of people from various countries wanting to import our interest about it.” products, but it was all one-way. Today we have partnerships with a Advance Baking Concept (ABC) whole range of amazing customers.” was also kept busy with enquiOthers conducting live demonstrations included Monin, which ries — and was focusing on had professional baristas demonstrating the use of its innovative educating visitors about its flavourings at the firm’s stand in Sheikh Maktoum Hall. fresh-from-frozen concept, MEI beverage innovation director Tihomir Gergov noted: “We explained commercial have premium products, but it’s more than that: we can offer a full manager Masood Syed. flavourings solution for our customers. So this show is a key plat“To be honest, form for showing customers exactly what we can offer them.” we have to educate Monin MEI sales and marketing director Jeremy Coulbeck added: the customer,” he “This year, we decided not to do anything around new product said. “There are a lot of launches — it was really more about promoting the brand, focusing misconceptions about on coffee and soft drink applications. fresh-from-frozen, so we “My one reservation is that I’m not sure if our spot was the right are fighting that location for us,” he continued. “It was a decent space, but initially stereothis hall seemed a bit quieter than other areas of the show. We may type Baqer Mohebi Est’s look for a more exposed site next year.” and S Padmanabhan.
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Caterer Middle East March 2010
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
Show review Gulfood
of healthy chocolate to meet this demand. It’s called Acticoa; after educating people about the reality of the product. But I have always years of research they’ve found a way to retain the goodness within believed the concept we offer is more cost-effective than what the cocoa bean throughout the preparation process, and even enrich people do from scratch — and we are definitely seeing more people it, so the chocolate ends up full of anti-oxidants. embracing this option since the downturn,” he continued. “They are not here in this market yet, but they have just an“Formerly, when there was a lot of money to spend, people were nounced a major deal with Mars, which will see them promoting setting up their own in-house bakeries: investing in the man power, their intiative,” Feghali added. the space, the machines and the raw ingredients. “Sugar-free chocolate has also become a major market for us,” he “But we offer something simpler than that — all you need are continued. “You can do so much with it, even use it for cooking — freezers, an oven and a shelf trolley. That’s all that is required, so it it’s a great solution for diabetes sufferers.” is extremely efficient.” Meanwhile Baqer Mohebi Est head of sales and marketing for Another firm making the most of the region’s booming bakery the HORECA division S Padmanabhan was also market was Baking Technologies — the company using the show to build up awareness of its healthbehind the GCC’s recently-launched Baking Guild, conscious brands. as well as Gulfood’s inaugural Baking Theatre. The UAE has the third “We are showcasing a lot of health and wellness Chairman Ton Seuren expanded: “We established highest prevalence of products,” he confirmed. “Last year we launched the Baking Guild six months ago and have more diabetes in the world. a healthy range of bread mixes, and this year we than 400 members already. Source: Euromonitor International are launching a chocolate which contains healthy “As a result, the theatre initiative was launched to oxidants. We are also looking at an all-sour dough show that the baking industry is a lively one and a bread, which is very popular in this part of the complicated one, which is why we have master bakworld, as well as being healthy,” he continued. ers demonstrating how it’s done. “Regarding our health and wellness products, interest is increas“At next year’s Gulfood, we’re planning a major bakery competiing every day; people are always concerned with that.” tion for bakers and pastry chefs,” he revealed. At Emirates Snack Foods’ renowned Café Culinaire stand, the Highlighting health focus was also on wellbeing. In addition to an emphasis on interactive elements, the other buzz“Our new brands include Red Espresso, which is rooibos tea but words of the show were ‘health and wellness’, with numerous supdone expresso-style,” explained sales manager, food service Anusha pliers looking to meet the growing demand for healthy foodstuffs. Prabhakar. “It’s not tea, it’s not coffee, but it’s really tasty and very Baking Technologies’ Seuren said the company would be focusing diverse — and healthy too, with five times more anti-oxidants than on its consultancy division this year, promoting healthy sugar-free green tea,” she continued. pastry, bread and sweet items. “We’ve also got a great range from Dilmah Teas, as well as Dr “The diabetes and obesity levels are very high in this region, and Karg: a great range of crackers and breads from Germany which are we are trying to work together with the manufacturers to reduce GM-free, gluten-free and trans-fat-free, which is something everythat,” he explained. one is looking for right now.” EMF Emirates general manager Pierre Feghali agreed: “RegardA hit show ing trends, today it’s all about health-oriented, sugar-free products. “One of our major partners, Callebaut, has come up with new lines The only minor crisis in an otherwise smooth show run came in
FOODIE FACT
EMF Emirates’ Pierre Feghali.
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Monin’s mixologist shows visitors how it’s done.
Chef Faycal Hallaoui at ESF’s Café Culinaire.
March 2010 Caterer Middle East
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Caterer Mag 2010 - creme brulee.ai
19/02/10
12:33:24
Show review Gulfood
The Salon Culinaire ice-carving classes drew crowds of spectators. the shape of a fire that broke out on the opening morning on an exhibitor’s stand. The small fire was discovered by the DWTC security division conducting pre-opening checks and “promptly brought under control”, allowing the show to open on time. Commenting on the incident, Dubai World Trade Centre (DWTC) exhibitions director — food cluster Mark Napier said he was “extremely proud” of how his team had handled the incident. “They reacted immediately, followed protocol and had everything under control within such a short time, that when the show opened, most people didn’t know anything had happened,” he said. Napier added that there had been no other issues throughout the course of the event, and that overall Gulfood had been a bigger success than ever. “We expected it to be good, but the reaction we’ve had from exhibitors was just unbelievable: they thought it was the best trade show they’d been to,” he revealed. “The conference was popular and ran smoothly, people enjoyed the Baking Theatre, the Salon Culinaire was more popular than ever and the every area of the show was packed — it was all we could hope for and more. “We still think there are opportunities for the show to get bigger next year, but of course that would depend on the space we have available,” Baking Technologies’ Napier continued. Ton Seuren with the “But overall, hats off to our company’s Gulfood team; we look forward to Award for Best Stand surpassing exhibitor and Above 100m². visitor expectations again next year!”
Caterer Middle East March 2010
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
Show review Madrid Fusion
Ferran Adrià addresses the audience.
The maestros of fusion Madrid Fusion returned for another packed edition full of innovative ideas this year year, but the importance of sharing new culinary concepts took a back seat to more pressing matters Following a year of upheaval and enforced adaptation for the global F&B industry, Madrid Fusion gave chefs plenty to think about during the 2010 edition of the leading Spanish gastronomy showcase. While culinary innovation remained a focus, underlying themes of sustainability and survival ran through this year’s exhibition. “It is difficult at the moment,” noted Grant Achatz, owner and head chef of contemporary Chicago restaurant Alinea. “There is a huge risk in allowing your outlet to become too contrived for the customer.” Achatz, whose restaurant is positioned at the cutting edge of gastronomy, added: “I try to see most of the demonstrations here, as it
The show proved as popular as last year.
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Caterer Middle East March 2010
helps you stay current and figure out what’s “Nowadays chefs are lucky in that the megoing on in the culinary world.” dia is interested in them, so we all have a Meanwhile Ferran Adrià, who used the role to play in regards to encouraging susevent to announce the temporary closure of tainability in the industry,” he asserted. his world-famous restaurant El Bulli, said Alinea’s Achatz added: “If you are a chef while the global financial crisis had been and not environmentally responsible in “hard for everyone in the restaurant indus- terms of sourcing products, then you are try”, he was optimistic about the future. simply not doing your job.” “I believe there is still room Changing priorities for many people to develop In a new format, each day of their culinary ideas and open If you are not the 2010 edition focused on a new restaurants,” he asserted. “When we opened back in environmentally different topic — all of which nodded towards the harsher 1983 there were only one or two responsible, you economic climate. three-Michelin-star restaurants are simply not The first day considered the in Spain; look at the industry future of haute cuisine, the now and you realise that the doing your job” second day focused on ecolog1982 recession had a massive ical and sustainable cuisine, effect on Spanish cuisine.” Even the biggest name at the show, Alain and the third reviewed ‘gastro-economy’. Despite the changed tone of the show, AlinDucasse, admitted 2009 had been tough. “It has not been an easy year,” he observed. ea’s Achatz, returning for his second year, “But what’s important is to not to change told Caterer Middle East the event was every your ways — lower your prices, but never bit as busy as the previous year. Madrid Fusion director Esmeralda Capel lower the quality.” Ducasse also used his position as a keynote agreed: “Madrid Fusion is becoming better speaker to emphasise that culinary figures known everyday and has now become a meeting point for experts in gastronomy from all could play a role in ensuring sustainability.
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Show review Madrid Fusion
over the world. It is unbelievable, but every year chefs improve the quality of their demonstrations,” she added. Valerie Cotte, HORECA marketing manager for Grupo Lactalis Iberia, said the show was one of international significance. “Madrid Fusion is a great place to share your experience with chefs, the public and other companies,” she explained. “Next year we will probably return because it has proved helpful; if you want to be an international company, Madrid Fusion is the place to raise your profile.”
Supplier showcase While space for suppliers at the show was limited to the top floor of the congress hall, both local and international companies were keen to mark their presence at the exhibition. Valrhona restaurant development manager Daniel Hughes noted: “For Valrhona, Madrid Fusion is very important because of the volume of international chefs attending. The people we find here are quality visitors from all around the world,” he explained. Cerámica Industrial Montgatina export and marketing manager Olga Casanovas said she had been “very happy” with the show, which had proved “busy throughout”. “The quality of the people we have been talking to — restaurant managers, chefs and other suppliers — have all been very professional,” she said. “It’s important to come here, because we create our plates especially for top restaurants, and this is where you find the top chefs in the world.” While innovation and creativity were typically abundant at Madrid Fusion 2010, the congress did indicate that last year’s global crisis had cut to the heart of the food industry. Sustainability seems to be the one non-finance-related theme that carries momentum in the culinary world right now. Despite the success of hugely innovative ideas that were exhibited during the good times, these now appear to have taken a back seat to economic issues. As Alinea’s Grant Achatz noted: “At the end of the day we run restaurants, not Broadway productions.”
A live panel disscussion addresses the topic of the day.
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March 2010 Caterer Middle East
F&B essentials Uniforms
Middle East has trendiest kitchen staff Middle East F&B industry tops Europe in the fashion stakes, says uniform expert Chefs and restaurant staff in the Middle East are willing to take more fashion risks than fellow F&B workers in other markets, according to Emile Rassam managing director Elie Rassam. “On the whole, the Middle East’s F&B outlets are far more fashion-conscious than their counterparts in Europe and the United States,” said Rassam. “The wardrobe worn in many F&B outlets in Europe tends to be very conservative by comparison to the risks the Gulf region is prepared to take.” Rassam attributed this modish approach to F&B uniforms down to the fact that many hotels and outlets were looking
It’s not just food that is well-presented in the Middle East’s kitchens. for a way to differentiate themselves from other operations. “Everyone in the Middle East, from small restaurants
The supplier you should know…
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to hotels, wants to develop their own brand identity and our clients seem very keen on ensuring their wardrobes re-
Brand to watch: Simon Jersey
Supported in the UAE by its local partner Bahraja Trading, uniform manufacturer Maurel is able to provide F&B outlets with all the support they need in developing staff clothing. The manufacturer offers a diverse range of uniforms for restaurant and kitchen staff and can design customised outfits to match an outlet’s interior design or atmosphere.
UK-based uniform supplier Simon Jersey offers a wide range of uniforms right across the Middle East, from its 291page catalogue. Available in the region through A Ronai, Simon Jersey also offers outlets bespoke garments and can even design a complete wardrobe for an operation.
Bahraja Trading Tel: +971 4 2672353 Fax: +971 4 2672454 Email: bahraja@eim.ae Web: www.maurel.com
A Ronai Tel: +971 4 341 4409 Fax: +971 4 341 4457 Email: mesales@ronai.co.uk Web: www.ronai.co.uk
Caterer Middle East March 2010
flect their brand positioning,” Rassam explained, adding that the majority of the firm’s clients placed innovative design at the top of their list of wardrobe requirements. “If I had to pinpoint an area of the hospitality industry where uniforms are continuously evolving, and as important at the design stage as front-ofhouse attire, it would be the kitchen,” Rassam continued. “This is because nowdays, so many chefs are in open kitchens and visible to the guest. “I believe this region’s F&B workers are the best dressed,” he added. “Certainly when compared to Europe and the States.”
A Ronai managing director Gavin Dodd.
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
F&B essentials Uniforms
Double-piped jacket Emile Rassam pays particular attention to the small details in its uniform designs, such as complementing the strong statement made by the trousers with a stylish double-piped jacket. Emile Rassam Tel: + 961 5 451 732 Fax: +961 5 950 164 Email: vh@emilerassam.com Web: www.emilerassam.com
Embroidered jackets Dream Uniforms provides hotels with a range of individual-style garments. A bestselling line for the firm is its embroidered jackets with Arabian motifs, creating a traditional look ideal for themed outlets. Dream Uniforms Tel: +971 4 334 0494 Email: feizal@dreamuniforms.ae
Maurel Maurel products include Spencer Jackets made from American Dacron fabric, which is both comfortable and resistant to wear and tear. The jacket cut features a shawl collar bordered by a customised special fabric reproducing the basic pattern of an outlet. Bahraja Trading Tel: +971 4 2672353 Fax: +971 4 2672454 Email: bahraja@eim.ae Web: www.maurel.com
Product showcase Crockery
Plating presentation Quality crockery can help to enhance a dish and elevate table presentation without breaking the bank; Caterer Middle East brings you a selection of smashing products
Luzerne New Bone
Produc
The Luzerne New Bone range offers a selection of tableware in a wide variety of styles and designs. The products are chip-resistant, dishwasher- and microwave-safe, oven-proof and shine-resilient for up to 5000 washes or five years from manufacture. Everstyle Trading Tel: +971 6 531 4106 Email: harish@everstyleuae.com
Contour The new Contour collection from Procurio is inspired by the fashion world’s obsession with detail, combining rounded and angular forms. The angular showpieces are designed to complement the existing Tafelstern collection, also from Procurio.
Spyro The Spyro range features textured surfaces that capture light and create a 3D optical effect of highlights and shadows. All items come with a five-year no-chip warranty. A Ronai Tel: +971 4 341 4409 Email: mesales@ronai.co.uk Web: www.ronai.co.uk
Procurio Tel: +971 4 334 1040 Email: oscar@procurio.ae Web: www.procurio-me.com
Terramesa
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This collection combines a rustic style with functionality and has been designed around the concept of “from earth to table”. Decorated in four shades and manufactured with hand-finished edges this range is suitable for tapas dishes, mezze starters, main courses and sharing platters.
Alizée
A Ronai Tel: +971 4 341 4409 Email: mesales@ronai.co.uk Web: www.ronai.co.uk
A Ronai Tel: +971 4 341 4409 Email: mesales@ronai.co.uk Web: www.ronai.co.uk
Caterer Middle East March 2010
Alizée, from manufacturer Pillivuyt Chinaware, includes dinner plates and bowls in an array of elegant, unconventional shapes.
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
Supplier Product showcase
New products Every month Caterer Middle East brings you the latest F&B products to hit the shelves
Koma H-cabinet
Ken Presto
The technology behind the Koma H-cabinet system allows food producers to simultaneously quick-freeze products to temperatures as low as –38°C and store products at –20°C. The 2010 model can now be delivered with a cold storage section and the temperature can is controlled through one compressor.
Ken Presto is a nondairy whipping cream designed to improve dairy cream consistency. It is possible to add mild flavours during the whipping process with this neutralflavoured product.
Koma Middle East Tel: +971 4 887 3334 Email: marc@koma.com Web: www.koma.com
Safety Wrap Station This product from San Jamar combines safe dispensing of film and foil with an integrated dating label dispenser — a complete solution to avoid cross-contamination. Specifico and Co Tel: +971 43 414 711 Email: specifico@specificoco.com Web: www.specificoco.com
dispoTool Warehouse Management System
Ken Europe Tel: +39 06 3325 0200 Fax +39 06 3324 7365 Web: www.skisa.com
Caramel Popcorn Caramel Popcorn is the best seller product of US-based company Thatcher’s Gourmet Popcorn. It can be used as a base in which to add nuts and other ingredients to, and is available in a variety of different packaging. Thatcher’s Gourmet Specialties Tel: +1 415 643 9945 Web: www.tgsp.com
Designed for large operations, the new dispoTool Warehouse Management System (WMS) is a paperless distribution system that features multi-coloured displays. The system has been extended to provide modules for receiving goods, storage, stock control and analysis. ToolBox Bakery Solutions Tel: +49 2403 9966 0 Email: info@toolbox.eu Web: www.toolbox.eu
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
March 2010 Caterer Middle East
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Distributors & supplies directory Distributors ABC Baking
Baqer Mohebi
Fresh Express LLC
MH Enterprises
Tel: 009714 885 3788 Email: Natalie@abcbaking.com www.abcbaking.com
Tel: +971 4 396 9777 Email: bme@mohebi.com (Marketing & distribution of food & non food FMCG, food ingredients & Cuban Cigars)
Tel: +971 4 3395354 Email: alis@freshexpressint.com www.freshexpressint.com
Tel: +971 4 3470 444 Fax: +971 4 3470 972 Email: surinder@mhent.ae www.mhent.ae
Alokozay Distributors Tel: 971 4 8871155 Email: naheed.siddiqi@alokozay.com www.alokozay.com
Aramtec Tel: 971 (4) 3390444 Email: hossam@aramtec.com www.aramtec.com
Suppliers BEVERAGES Boncafe Tel: +971 4 2828742 Email: sales.dept@boncafeme.ae www.boncafeme.ae
Coffee Planet Tel: +971 4 341 5537 Email: coffee@mycoffeeplanet.com www.mycoffeeplanet.com
Franke Tel: +41 6 2787 3607 www.franke-cs.com
Lavazza Tel: +971 50 5959385 Fax: +971 4 3211274 Email: ruth@lavazza.ae www.lavazza.ae
Monin Tel: +971 50 940 0918 Email: tgergov@monin-mei.com www.monin.com
Country Hill International Tel: +971 4 347 0200 Email: hamish@chi.ae
Emf Emirates Tel: +971 4 2861166 Fax: +971 4 2863080 Email: info@emf-emirates.ae
Schaerer Tel: +41 318 585111 Email: info@schaerer.com www.schaerer.com
Tel: +49 884 7670 Email: info@convotherm.de www.convotherm.de
MKN Tel: +49 5 3 318 9207 Email: km@mkn.de www.mkn.de
La Marquise Tel: +971 4 343 3478 Email: sales@lamarquise.ae www.lamarquise.ae
Shura Trading Tel: +971 2 6730 565 Email: shura@emirates.net.ae www.shuraemirates.com
TSSC Tel: +971 4 343 1100 Email: tssc@eim.ae www.tsscdubai.com (Catering/kitchen equipment, chocolate/ coffee equipment, FMCG, refrigeration)
Tulsidas Lalchand
JSD Products
Tel: +971 4 3414900 Email: wissam@mhao.ae www.alotaibagroup.com
Tel: +971 4 3533736 Email: trade@tulsidas.com www.tulsidas.com
Tel: +44 1727 841111 Email: info@jsdproducts.co.uk www.jsdproducts.co.uk
FOODSTUFF
HYGIENE
Al Diyafa
Fujiyama Trading LLC
Tel: 009714 369 2888 Email: vahe@diafafoodstuff.com
Tel: +971 4 2228810 Email: Vitofiltration.uae@gmail.com www.systemfiltration.com
Bakemart Llc Tel: +971 4 2675406 Email: bakemart@emirates.net.ae www.bakemart.ae
Boiron Freres Tel: +33 (0)4 75 47 87 00 Email: nberry@boironfreres.com http://www.boironfreres.com
CSM Deutschland GmbH Tel: +49 421 3502 387 Email: michael.pruss@csmglobal.com
Giles & Posner Tel: +44 1923 234040 Fax: +44 1923 245151 Email: sales@gilesandposner.com www.gilesandposner.com
Johnson Diversey Gulf Fze Tel: +971 4 881 9470 www.johnsondiversey.com
MGK/Temptrak Tel: 009714 3309071 mirco@mgk.ae www.mgk.ae.
Newell Rubbermaid Tel: +971 4 292 3444 Email: yasmin.dabbah@newellco.com www.newellrubbermaid.com
RESTAURANT/ HOTEL SUPPLIES Airstar Space Lighting Tel: +971 4 8854906 Email: hichamlalmi@airstarme.ae www.airstar-light.com
Baking Technologies Lambweston Tel: +971 50 6447837 Email: frankboering@lambweston-nl.com www.lambwestonmeijer.nl
Tel: +971 4 885 7557 Email: ton@baking-technologies.com www.baking-technologies.com
Nestlé Professional
Dalebrook Supplies Ltd
Tel: +971 4 408 8100 Email: npdxb@ae.nestle.com
Tel: 0044 1376 510101 Email: kikih@dalebrook.com http://www.dalebrookonline.com
Pritchitts
Duni AB
Tel: 02082907020 Email: GScott@pritchitt.com www.pritchitts.com
Procurio Tel: 009714 334 1040 Email: procurio@eim.ae www.procurio-me.com
Royal Host Tel: +966 2 2522289 Email: royal@binshihoun.com www.binshihoun.com
Villeroy and Boch Tel: +352 46821208 Email: info.hr@villeroy-boch.com www.villeroy-boch.com
CATERING EQUIPMENT Electrolux Professional Tel: +39 0434380304 Email: karen-cristina.breda@electrolux.it www.electrolux.com
Koma Middle East Tel: 9714 887 3334 Email: marc@koma.ae www.koma.com
Robot Coupe Tel: 0033 143 988833 Email: person@robot-coupe.com www.robot-coupe.com
KNIVES
Churchill China Tel: +44 1782 524371 Email: glenn.ewart@churchillchina.plc.uk www.churchillchina.com
COOKING Convotherm
Tel: +971 4 3403330 Email: mail@horecatrade.ae www.horecatrade.com
Mohamed Hareb Al Otaiba
Nestlé Professional Tel: +971 4 408 8100 Email: npdxb@ae.nestle.com
Horeca Trade Llc
Tel: +46 40 10 62 00 Fax: +46 40 39 66 30 Email: info@duni.com www.duni.com
Dick Tel: +49 7 153 8170 Email: mail@dick.de www.dick.de
Victorinox AG Tel: +41 41 818 12 64 Email: alain.hospenthal@victorinox.ch www.victorinox.com
Data February 2010
A spotlight on staffing issues Each month Caterer Middle East collects data from F&B professionals across the region to bring you all the must-know industry stats, trends and price fluctuations affecting the regional market
Competition Each month, every survey participant who submits their email address will be entered into a draw to win this stylish bartender kit from gourmet flavourings provider Monin. For more information about the company’s range of products, please visit: www.monin.com
What is the most challenging factor in recruiting F&B staff?
It’s getting harder to getting attract people work in this region.
87
%
of respondents said they were actively recruiting for roles in the F&B department
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Source: Caterer Middle East F&B Survey
I do not think there is a problem recruiting in this region.
Salaries in this region are too low.
60
%
%
of those recruiting said they were hiring specifically for positions in the kitchen
of respondents said there had been no redundancies at their operation so far this year
How good is your F&B team?
Excellent; they are well-informed, make recommendations, are confident in up-selling and can problem-solve when necessary.
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
There’s too much competition with so many upcoming openings.
Some of the more unusual skilled roles are naturally harder to fill, as there are fewer qualified people.
Good; they are helpful and enjoy interacting with guests, although might have to ask someone more senior when faced with difficult questions.
Average; to be honest I would like to see more passion from our staff, but it is difficult to find truly committed employees in this region.
Source: Caterer Middle East F&B Survey
It’s an upbeat time in the F&B market, with a host of positive responses about outlet and staff performance from this month’s survey participants. A cheery 60% of respondents said business over the past month had been fair or brilliant — the highest percentage since we began collecting data in March 2009. And while 37% noted that ingredient prices had risen, a majority 41% of these industry professionals said their suppliers’ price hikes were justified. Check out the rest of our stats for an overview of the increasingly healthy regional recruitment market. To take part in next month’s survey, receive a full anonymous break-down of the findings and go into the draw for our monthly competition — with the chance to win an exclusive prize from Monin — just visit www.hoteliermiddleeast.com and click on the F&B Survey link.
March 2010 Caterer Middle East
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Appointments March 2010
The Kempinski Hotel Ajman’s new executive chef Didier Gusching talks to Caterer Middle East about his latest career move to the northern emirate, his views on the UAE F&B industry, and the specific smells that lead him to pursue a life in the kitchen What encouraged you to make the move to Ajman? I was attracted by the promise of new challenges and by the good feelings resonating around the emirate. What do you hope to bring to your new role at the Kempinski Hotel Ajman? An upscale and modern approach; we want to put Ajman on the map as its own destination, not as an emirate that is near Dubai. What originally inspired you to take up a career in cooking? First of all, my mother inspired me to cook. Then when returning home from school during my childhood, I used to pass a family restaurant — the smells and flavours have staying with me. I still remember the aroma of the tomato sauce
and the other delicious smells from that kitchen after all these years! Also my grandmother used to look after her own garden, with all its wonders, and it was great to see all the things she could create. Back then no one was talking about organic food, because every ingredient was organic. Kempinski Ajman’s new recruit, Dider Gusching. As an HACCP Team Leader, how would you rate the cleanliness standards of the UAE’s kitchens? It is outstanding; I have been to many places, including most recently Switzerland, and even people from that country could come to the UAE to train and develop their hygiene skills. A lot of thanks has to go to Dubai Municipality, which has always helped push the standards up. How well represented is French
Recent appointments... Todd James Hunter has been appointed executive chef in charge of F&B at Aloft Hotel Abu Dhabi. Hunter began his culinary career at his parent’s restaurant in Australia, and has gone on to work in kitchens in London, the Caribbean, and central and southern America. Hunter was part of the opening team at Grosvenor House Dubai, where he climbed the ladder to executive sous chef before moving on.
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Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai Media City has announced the appointment of Bihui Li as sous chef at the hotel’s Asian restaurant Chef ’s House. Known to his colleagues as Chef Black, Li brings to the role more than eight years of international experience at various fine-dining restaurants in leading hotel chain properties across the world. His first task in the new role will be to revamp the menu at Chef ’s House.
Caterer Middle East March 2010
cuisine across the Emirates? It is very well represented across the UAE and there are plenty of newcomers coming into the country as well. What is the strangest request you have ever received from a customer? I was once asked to organise a top VIP party on an island that didn’t exist at the time of the request. It still needed to be built, but to those customers money was no object!
Ahmed Issa has taken over as director of F&B at Shangri-La Hotel, Qaryat Al Beri complex in Abu Dhabi. In the new role he will oversee operations at Traders Hotel, Shangri-La Residences and The Villas by Shangri-La. During his 14 years of regional experience, Issa has worked at various hotels, but has spent seven years with the Shangri-La brand in the UAE. Issa served as a member of the pre-opening team for Shangri-La properties in both Dubai and Abu Dhabi.
Grand Hyatt Dubai has appointed Fathi Khogaly as its new hotel manager. Egyptian national Khogaly has worked for Hyatt in the UAE for more than 21 years. After graduating from hotel school Khogaly joined Hyatt’s F&B department working in various outlets at the Hyatt Regency Dubai, before moving onto the events department in 1995. He subsequently moved to the pre-opening team at the Grand Hyatt Dubai, before returning to the Hyatt Regency to manage Galleria.
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b
Dates for the diary Calendar
DATES FOR THE DIARY... March 2010 M
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01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 March 2-5 Foodex Japan Tokyo, Japan
March 6-10 Europain Paris, France
featuring the Nightclub and Bar Convention and the International Restaurant Show
March 22-26 Alimentaria 2010 Barcelona, Spain
Asia’s largest F&B trade show
Exhibition for the bakery and confectionary industries
www.ncbshow.com
F&B exhibition for the international market
www.europain.com
March 16-17 Hotel and Catering Show Bournemouth, UK
www.alimentaria-bcn.com
www.jma.or.jp/foodex/en March 4-5 Food Forum India Mumbai, India Global and Indian conference for food retailers and manufacturers
March 7-9 Canadian Restaurant and Foodservices Association Show Toronto, Canada
Hospitality, tourism and leisure trade show featuring buyers from hotels, restaurants and bars
March 24-26 Hotel and Restaurant Expo Kiev, Ukraine Hotel and restaurant exhibition
www.foodforumindia.com
Hospitality show for buyers and suppliers
www.hotel-expo.co.uk
www.food-exhibitions.com
March 5-7 Coffee Fest New York, USA
www.crfa.ca/tradeshows
March 21-24 Baking Industry Exhibition Birmingham, UK
March 24-26 WorldFood Uzbekistan Tashkent, Uzbekistan
Trade equipment show for the baking and confectionary sector
International food, drink, packaging and equipment trade fair
Trade show for speciality coffee and teas
www.coffeefest.com
March 7-10 International Hospitality Week Las Vegas, USA Week-long event for the food, beverage and hotel industries
www.bakingindustryexhibition. co.uk
www.worldfood.uz
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Last bite Interview
Coffee break
Caterer Middle East met up with TV chef Brian Turner at Gulfood for a chat about the show, healthy eating, London pubs and the possibility of a restaurant in the Middle East Tell us about what you’ve been doing at Gulfood 2010. This is my third year here — I’m a guest of Steelite and Ronai, and the idea is to showcase the companies’ tableware with live food. So while at a lot of the stands you see fake fruits, uncooked pasta and varnished food items to add something, we felt that it was a nice touch to offer some real food, so visitors can see exactly what it looks like. What else have you been working on this year? About 18 months ago I decided to take a break from running restaurants in the UK; it was just circumstantial and the right thing to do at that time, but with the economic downturn in the UK it’s worked out extemely well for me personally, so I’ve been spending more time doing television and radio work, demonstration work like at Gulfood and private parties. Plus it’s allowed me to spend more time focusing on the charities and insitutions that I work with, which are all about food education for young people. So really we’ve been lucky and had a very good year, because we haven’t had the problems many restaurant operators have faced, such as cutting costs and trying to look after staff — which is what the market seems to be about at the moment. Do you have any plans to return to the restaurant business — and more specifically, will you ever open an outlet in this region? You have to do things at the right speed. We have been given many opportunities in various parts of the world. If the time and situation was right, I’d love to do something in Dubai — and we are talking to people.
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Caterer Middle East February 2010
Chef and TV personality Brian Turner strikes a pose in the Ronai and Steelite show kitchen at Gulfood 2010. People who are knowledgeable, who understand the market, who have the finances and who could actually put something decent together, so we’ll see. I’m also looking at a small pub in the middle of London’s meat market, because for me that would also suit my character. Then when ‘off duty’ I could be in the pub; ‘on duty’ I could help people running restaurants in different parts of the world! Who knows what will happen, but certainly I’m excited by this part of the world and given the right opportunity, I’d take it. So until you decide to launch a Dubai outlet, what other projects have you got on your plate?
In the UK Ready, Steady Cook has been recommissioned; I’m also doing Daily Cooks Challenge, I’ve been working with Alan Titchmarsh and I’m also on This Morning — so that covers day-time TV. Then we had a book that came out late last year, Great British Grub, which is the third book; I’m still not sure whether I’ll do another one for a while. The other big project is looking for a London pub, because I’d love to find a place where the onus is on good dining, not necessarily fine dining. Somwhere people will queue up to get good, honest food and not worry about all that ‘la-di-da’ business. And as for the outlet in the Middle East, who knows? Watch this space!
www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b