Caterer Middle East - Dec 2009 by ITP Business Publishing

Serving the region’s catering professionals

December 2009 • Vol 05 • Issue 12

Presenting the winners of the Caterer Middle East Awards 2009: the cream of the catering crop An ITP Business Publication

Contents Volume 5 Issue 12

Cover story

22 20

Contents December 2009

05 News Beverage professionals call for industry improvements; Jordan in need of qualified staff; food and fashion marketing merge 08 Finding your F&B niche The process of developing a new outlet theme is not a simple one, explain experts 12 Mystery shopper Ethos Consultancy reveals the true standard of customer service at UAE outlets and offers advice on how to better your business 16 Culinary confessions Marcus Gregs shares his kitchen tales; this month, a lesson in festive organisation 20 Kitchen correspondents Introducing our trainee diary â&#x20AC;&#x201D; an honest account of life as a student of F&B

22 Roundtable Seasoned sommeliers discuss their grape expectations for the region 28 Industry insight F&B professionals explain why kids are the key to repeat family business 32 The industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s elite Presenting the winners of the inaugural Caterer Middle East Awards 52 Lost in the dessert Sweet creators from around the region explain their passion for pastries 66 Product showcase The latest and greatest F&B products 71 Last bite Michelin-starred chef Angela Hartnett on Verre, vegetables and Gordon Ramsay

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December 2009 Caterer Middle East

Web contents www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b

Online The online home of Editor’s pick

In pictures

Take a tour of The Address Dubai Mall’s F&B outlets Check out the new hotel’s lobby lounge Karat, all-day dining outlet Na3Na3, pool-side restaurant and lounge Cabana and modern lounge Amatista [pictured]. The signature restaurant, Ember, opens later this month.

Moving with the market Even established eateries must look to their laurels in this fast-paced region — which is why some of the region’s most reputable F&B outlets are considering how best to reposition their offering, in order to remain relevant amidst the current flurry of openings and promotions. [Pictured: Franck Detrait, the new chef at Traiteur, Park Hyatt Dubai, with his team.]

Features

Savvy or slack?

The festive fight

The halal harvest

Customer service professionals assess the standard of the region’s F&B staff

Huge competition means outlets must fight for a piece of the pie this festive season

As global interest in halal grows, Middle East suppliers are reaping the rewards

Most popular Awards: WINNERS REVEALED! 1. Caterer dry doesn’t 2. Why mean destitute outlet set for 3. BiCE Dubai launch F1 challenge for 4. Post Yas Island restaurants dollar 5. Multi-million restaurant for Fujairah hotel

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Caterer Middle East December 2009

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News December 2009

Story of the month

Beverage experts call for bar industry shake-down Professionals highlight need for improved service and staff appreciation The Middle East bar industry is in need of a shake-down to improve service standards and offer more consistent quality and value to customers, according to industry professionals. Nick Hancock, bar development manager — licensed division for Emirates Leisure Retail (ELR), said he’d like to see “better service all over Dubai”. “We have some great bars, but there are still too many places you go in and the service is atrocious,” Hancock asserted. “And effecting an improvement would be great for the whole industry — the impression we give to the rest of the world would improve dramatically.” Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates beverage manager Sasha Milovanovic added: “I agree entirely — we need an improvement in service and more honesty and transparency in what we do. “It has been mentioned that in the past, bars here were perhaps charging too much. Of course I’m not against selling things for the price they’re worth — after all, most of the bars here are in fivestar hotels and accordingly they are expected to deliver a top-end experience — but the value-formoney factor definitely needs to be there.” Fairmont Dubai’s Exchange Floor manager, Simone Hopman, agreed that “Dubai has overcharged for a lot of things in the past; everyone is guilty of that”. “But now there is more supply and less demand, we’ve had a kind of reality check,” she noted. “The prices were hitting the same level as New York or any of the other major destinations that already have that name and energy. Now we need to re-assess that and offer more value for money.” Felix Hartmann, formerly manager of the Skyview Bar at Burj Al Arab and now managing the property’s Al Iwan Restaurant and Sahn Eddar Lounge, revealed that in recent months the outlet had lowered its minimum spend. “But the prices are still the same, because I expect my col-

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Headline grabbers p6 Can you taste the difference? Is five-star food any better than unrated offerings? p6 Jordan calls for skilled F&B staff Roundtable reveals a lack of qualified staff p6 Online opinions Our poll verdict on F&Binclusive package deals p7 Fashionable food The Horizon DraftFCB forum reveals a designer trend in the F&B market p7 Mövenpick makes the first move Introducing Dubai’s first pre-paid all-inclusive package deal

Emirates Leisure Retail’s Nick Hancock. leagues to make exactly the same quality drink as before — the same top quality that our customers have come to expect,” he reasoned. “For me, the changes I’d like to see are a better quality for the customers, a better community for bartenders and also higher commission for bar staff, who should really start getting the same recognition as the chefs here do. “Only then can we really see that enthusiasm start to come through and consequently reduce turnover and increase interest in this industry.” This view was supported by MMI bar development and training manager Rebecca Sturt, who noted that she would like to see “staff being trained and paid properly for their hard work”. Sturt also called for more bartender organisations and competitions to be established for the region, to challenge and enhance the industry.

p8 Emirates barista goes for glory Winner of UAE Barista Championship heading to international competition

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December 2009 Caterer Middle East

News December 2009

Five-star does not mean better food Raw ingredients are all the same, say limited-service chefs — high prices just cover ambient extras Outlets at limited-service hotels should not be dismissed by snobbish diners, as their food can be of the same quality as that at five-star properties, Dubai chefs have said. According to Premier Inn executive chef Dean Berry, the quality of food served at five-star properties is “not necessarily higher, although perhaps their range is more extensive”. Novotel and Ibis World Trade Centre executive chef Timothy Kairu explained: “The majority of products are bought from the same suppliers, so the same raw products are sold for the same price to all the hotels. “What makes the difference is the experience of visiting a five-star hotel. The food should be excellent — let’s face it, you are paying enough for it — but the ambience, the service and all the other little luxury touches should be there too.” Premier Inn’s Berry added that “in a

Would all-inclusive hotels be successful in the Middle East? Yes; it would help keep guests within the hotels

No; ingredients are too expensive to make this viable

11%

No; F&B brings in too much revenue to go “all-inclusive”

15%

Maybe; hotels could offer such packages to tour operators

18%

No; it would lower the perception of tourism here

22%

Yes; it would broaden the appeal of the region to more travellers

30%

Source: HotelierMiddleEast.com online poll

Caterer Middle East December 2009

five-star hotel operation, plate portions are relatively small due to various highend ingredients”, noting that the customer was “swayed towards consuming two expensive courses rather than one valuefor-money dish”. Berry also admitted that food cost was the toughest challenge for outlets at limited service properties to overcome. “You have to be very conscious of wastage while not compromising on quality,” he said. Holiday Inn — Al Barsha chef Sameh Youssef said finding quality products at optimum prices was an ongoing challenge. “We have built good relations with our suppliers, who have slowly engaged in our mandate and are ready to weather the economic storm with us — and willing to share their discounts,” he said. Novotel and Ibis’ Kairu said he believed a restaurant could impress any guest, as long as it delivered on what was promised.

Novotel and Ibis World Trade Centre’s Timothy Kairu. “We have people eating at Cubo for lunch who stay at five-star hotels. We see these guests on a regular basis and they enjoy our food,” he pointed out. “I imagine at night they eat in some of Dubai’s best restaurants, but my point is they eat in both and enjoy both.”

Jordan in need of qualioed F&B staff Jordan’s F&B industry is suffering due to a lack of qualified staff, according to professionals in Aqaba. Discussing the main challenges facing the Kingdom at a recent roundtable hosted by Mövenpick Resort Tala Bay Aqaba, InterContinental Aqaba Resort F&B manager Hatem Badareen said key problems included “a lack of qualified staff, a lack of professional training and trainers, and the fact that competent F&B employees are moving to the Gulf ”. Marina Plaza Hotel res-

taurants manager JeanPhilippe Ferrini agreed that employing staff who had relevant training and qualifications was a major challenge. According to Radisson Blu Tala Bay Resort executive assistant manager Kosta Kourotsidis, part of the challenge for existing properties in recruiting the right employees was due to the fact that “many new international and well-known five-star hotels are coming up across the country, particularly in Aqaba”. However the round-

table’s host, Mövenpick Resort Tala Bay director of F&B Hakim Karoui, said he was “looking forward to seeing more international companies opening hotels” in the area. “It will increase competition in the country and really raise the bar,” he said.

Mövenpick’s Hakim Karoui.

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News In brief

Markets mixing up food and fashion

Mövenpick’s all-inclusive package orst

The rules of fashion are increasingly playing a part in F&B, according to trend analysis conducted by DraftFCB. The firm’s global chief planning officer Simon Calvert said manufacturers were reaching out to consumers in “a more glamorous, personalised way”. Calvert discussed the topic in a live panel discussion with F&B brand development consultant Major Steadman and Caterer Middle East editor Lucy Taylor, at the Horizon DraftFCB Matter(s) Forum held in Dubai last month. The group agreed that customisation and personalised products would be buzz-words for the F&B industry in 2010.

Mövenpick Hotels and Resorts has unveiled what it claims is a UAE in international first for Dubai — a pre-paid allcoffee comp inclusive offering at an upcoming hotel on The Palm Jumeirah. The UAE will compete in the World Barista Championship The group’s 293-room Royal for the first time next year, after Amwaj property will debut a representative was selected at the all-inclusive concept, the the inaugura inaugural National UAE hotel chain’s new business Cha Barista Championship in development director Guy Dubai last month. Epsom revealed. C Caribou Coffee Com“All F&B and dining is pany’s Vi Vikram Kashyap covered — it’s a market out outperformed five first,” he said. oth to win the others The ‘Club Amco competition, which waj’ concept ofwa held in conwas fers a three-tier ju junction with the package giving S Specialty Coffee guests at the Mövenpick’s Guy Epsom. an Tea Convenand property free tio 2009. tion food and drink

[L-R] Steadman and Calvert. In addition to assessing key trends, the forum looked at how to turn consumer preferences into marketing opportunities. “The Matter(s) web platform allows us to identify emerging trends in local markets and see if there’s a way of taking those trends and sharing commonalities across regions and across the world,” explained Calvert. For more information, visit: www.welcometomatters.com

Genius,Quality,Passion...

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at not only all on-site outlets, but also the other 30-plus venues in Mövenpick’s Dubai portfolio.

News analysis Outlet themes

Lobby lounge Karat at the new Address Dubai Mall.

Developing dining themes A tough 2009 has seen various badly thought-out F&B concepts fall by the wayside — so how can operators looking to introduce a new outlet to the market ensure their concept will cut the mustard? Food and beverage outlets have mushroomed in the Middle East over the past decade — and today, with operator and consumer confidence returning in the wake of the economic slump, a host of new outlets are coming online. But with the days of making easy money from any old offering long gone, operators must be right on target with their concept. At The Address Dubai Mall, director of

24%

of the region’s F&B professionals said increased competition was the biggest challenge facing outlet operators today. Source: HotelierMiddleEast.com

Caterer Middle East December 2009

F&B Domenico Iannone joined the team items; not only meats, but fish, seafood and just over a year ago to assist with outlet de- so on,” he explained. velopment in the pre-opening stages. Meanwhile Christian Jean, executive chef After months of careful preparation, four for the pre-opening of the Renaissance Doha venues are now operational: Na3Na3, mean- City Center Hotel, Courtyard by Marriott ing ‘mint’ in Arabic, a Middle Eastern res- Doha City Center and Marriott Executive taurant offering Arabic cuisine Apartments Doha City Center with a strong Levantine focus; in Qatar, has his work cut out We have really for him. lobby lounge Karat, boasting a wide range of teas and coffees; targeted these Qatar’s three new Marriott Amatista, a trendy lounge with International properties, locatconcepts so they ed in two towers at the Doha a dedicated cigar booth; and Cabana, a pool bar and restau- ot the market” City Center Mall, will share rant during the day, turning nine F&B outlets including a into a lounge at night. New York steakhouse, Italian “There’s also Ember, which will hopefully restaurant, sports bar and French brasserie. open in December,” added Iannone. “This is Another recently-opened property is the our signature restaurant and will have an en- Media One Hotel located in Dubai Media trance from the mall as well as the hotel. City, where operations manager Sebastien “It will offer a wide variety of healthy, pro- Noat is overseeing five outlets as they come duce-driven cuisine, with a focus on grilled online: ground-floor Café M, a casual grab-

“

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News analysis Outlet themes

and-go concept that becomes a wine bar in portfolio demonstrates, operators need to asthe evening; Z:ONE, an Asian-Arabic café sess their strengths, their clientele and the viaconcept during the day and martini bar in bility of an idea before actually settling on it. the evening; outdoor shisha outlet M2; allNoat explained the team was given “an abday dining outlet The MED; and pool-side solute carte blanche” with the themes. “The café M Dek, which turns into alter-ego Gos- idea was simply to go for volume of customsip in the evening — a hip lounge featuring ers and success,” he said. a DJ. But to arrive at the choices “We have no residential they did, they still conducted People here neighbours, so when it comes a thorough market analysis. to sound volume we have a cer- are not willing to “You have to look at the F&B tain flexibility that most venues offerings that are around you go avant garde cannot enjoy,” explained Noat. — if you’re going to compete “We have really targeted each with concepts” with a concept, you have to do of these concepts so they fit the it at least equally well,” pointmarket,” he continued. “We’re ed out Noat. “We’re not trying in a business area, so during the week, our to revolutionise the whole landscape with the rooms are filled with business people — and concepts we’ve brought out, but rather to ofby becoming a party destination on the week- fer something just as good with a different end, we hope to off-set the seasonality of the edge, at half the price.” area by having party-goers in the rooms for Not everyone has a carte blanche, though; those days.” the portfolio for Qatar’s new Marriott propAs Media One’s carefully targeted F&B erties contains four outlets — New York

“

The Address Dubai Mall’s Domenico Iannone.

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News analysis Outlet themes

Do you think any one restaurant theme has been overused in this region? Arabic

Steakhouse 26.19% 14.29%

Modern European 2.38%

Japanese 16.67%

16.67% Source: HotelierMiddleEast.com

Italian

2.38% Molecular

7.14%

14.29%

Asian

Steakhouse, Cucina, Champions and Crossroads Kitchen — that are existing brands within the hotel group’s F&B portfolio. “For these, we have followed brand guidelines, but added a local flavour to them,” explained Jean. “Then for the others, thorough market research helped us find the right concepts to bridge the gap in the market. “Marriott’s corporate and regional teams

Media One’s Sebastien Noat.

Caterer Mi M Middle idd ddle dle le E East asst December a De D ece ece em mb ber er 2 2009 009 00

Fusion

Marriott’s Christian Jean.

work closely with local resources and invest capitals — the reason being that there is no in market and consumer preference research, risk-taking here,” he continued. “People here are not willing to go avant which is a great help in creating F&B congarde; they seem to prefer to invest in concepts cepts suited to the local tastes,” he added. with a proven track record. In a region where there are so “If you look at the restaumany F&B options, it’s almost We have a rant owners in San Francisco, impossible to be totally original; but operators would do certain pexibility or Sydney, people do that for well to steer away from copying that most venues a living and they do it with passion. They are dedicated tried-and-tested ideas, accordto their concept, they live by ing to Media One’s Noat — cannot enjoy” it and believe in it. particularly if the region is to “Maybe they’ll make a foradvance as a gastronomic hub. “When you look at the biggest commercial tune, maybe they won’t — but the idea is they successes at the moment, like Japanese res- change, they experiment, they rework the taurants, those restaurants are six or seven concept; and that’s what’s lacking in Dubai.” The Address’s Iannone said a main concern years old in the UK and have only just now made it into for him was the region’s fine-dining scene. “The current outlets in this arena seem to Dubai. They’re old news in Europe, but here they’re focus much more on pricing than the quality of service and the quality of food — so the talk of the town. “So although from a these ones are perhaps the one style of outlet sophistication stand- I could live without,” he said. Another theme that needs some close attenpoint, the region is right up there; tion is the all-day dining restaurant, added in terms of the Marriott’s Jean. “The market is still lacking all-day dining food offerings we’re not on concepts that have a really great pull,” he the same level said. “I’d also like to see more quality standas a lot of other alone restaurants in Qatar in the future.”

“

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URBAN NATURE NEW DIMENSIONS IN HOSPITALITY

Associated Member

Get in touch: www.urban-nature.com Villeroy & Boch 路 Hotel & Restaurant Division ME Lloyd Lamprecht Al Thuraya Tower #2, Office 1906 Dubai Technology and Media Free Zone Address: P.O. Box 125846 路 Dubai, U.A.E Mobile: +971-50-798 7233 路 Fax: +971-4-885 0069 Email: lloydl@eim.ae HOTEL & RESTAURANT

Mystery shopper Dubai hotel bars

Service spy This month, Ethos Consultancy’s team of mystery shoppers went undercover at a handful of the trendiest bars in Dubai, to check whether servers were shaken, stirred, on the rocks or simply neat

This month: Dubai hotel bars • • • •

Ginseng — Wao Dubai Cooz — Grand Hyatt Dubai Crossroads — Rafpes Dubai Calabar — The Address Downtown Burj Dubai

THE WHAT: Caterer Middle East has partnered up with customer service experts Ethos Consultancy to highlight F&B service standards at outlets across the UAE. Each month, we’ll reveal mystery shoppers’ assessments of four different F&B outlets, to explore what these venues are doing right and what could be improved. THE WHY: This isn’t about catching F&B outlets with their trousers down: by measuring performance and providing expert advice on areas for improvement, we want to help better these operations — and the industry in general. THE HOW: Ethos Consultancy’s trained mystery shoppers are given a speciﬁc selection of outlets. Each shopper visits their assigned restaurant and dines as usual. Within 24 hours of every experience, each shopper ﬁlls out an online report, providing Ethos consultants with the information they require to offer constructive advice.

Caterer Middle East December 2009

Each mystery shopper is instructed to look out for the following:

Appearance

• How satisfied were you with the overall quality of service delivered? • What could have been done to better your entire experience?

• Did the outlet appear clean and tidy? • Were menus clear and easy to follow?

The expert analysis:

Sales and service • The greeting and farewell received from staff • The appearance of staff • Time taken to be served • Did the waiter ask questions to establish his customer’s preferences and needs? • Was the waiter knowledgeable about the items on offer? • Did the waiter offer undivided attention while serving? • If an item was not available, did the waiter provide other helpful suggestions? • Did the waiter attempt to up- or cross-sell by suggesting complementary items?

Overall Experience • Would your experience encourage you to visit this outlet again? • Did you leave the outlet with a positive impression of the venue? • Would you recommend this outlet to friends, family or colleagues?

Last month’s Service Spy hotel lobby café service scores were a tough act to follow — but happily, this month’s results are also pretty pleasing and it was great to see consistent customer service from the hotels visited. Each of the four hotel bars featured here deserves to be congratulated, with all of them scoring above 65%. A big pat on the back must go to this month’s winner, Ginseng at Wafi, with the top score of 95%. Our mystery shoppers were blown away by the service there, reporting attentiveness, superb product knowledge, professionalism and lots of smiles. The staff at Cooz in the Grand Hyatt earned second place, also a notable achievement. Our shoppers were impressed by the Cooz staff ’s ability to ask questions to identify their needs and make suggestions based on these requirements. All of our shoppers were instructed to ask the waiting staff for their food and beverage recommendations and one particular staff

Appearance

Sales & Service

Did the outlet appear clean and tidy?

How long did you have to wait to be served?

Visit 1

Visit 2

Visit 1

Visit 2

Ginseng

Yes

1 minute or less

Cooz

Yes

1-3 minutes

1 minute or less

Crossroads

Yes

1 minute or less

Calabar

Yes

5 minutes or more

3-5 minutes

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Mystery shopper Dubai hotel bars

Restaurant Appearance

Sales & Service

Overall experience

100

ABOUT ETHOS CONSULTANCY

100%

51%

74%

93%

100%

93%

100%

20 0

Ginseng

Cooz

Crossroads

member at Cooz prepared a special cocktail not listed on the menu to fit the customer’s request of ‘light and sweet’ — a great example of going above and beyond expectations! Having said this, Cooz did loose points for serving nut mix which was less than fresh. Crossroads at Raffles and Calabar at The Address, coming in third and fourth respectively, performed extremely well with outlet appearance and product knowledge, but lost points for poor customer interaction and failing to ask their customers questions to identify their needs. Our mystery shoppers were also only ‘satisfied’ with the time taken to serve at these bars, as opposed to the ‘very satisfied’ achieved by first and second place. Each of our mystery shoppers said they would happily return and even recommend their visited hotel bar, which is fantastic.

Calabar

What could have been done better? • One of our shoppers reported that the complimentary mixed nuts served weren’t very fresh and smelt a little strange. This shopper asked for a new bowl of mixed nuts and was horrified when the waiter removed the bowl only to place it directly onto the table next to them! The shopper was then provided with another bowl of mixed nuts which were just as bad as the first. This negative experience will remain with the customer for a long time to come, as the recovery plan was poor and a satisfactory resolution was definitely not achieved. • One of our shoppers became quite frustrated as every time they finished their drink they had to seek a waiter to organise another. Although it’s difficult to catch every finished drink, your customer should not have to seek out a waiter to order every new beverage.

Originating in the UK in 1995, Ethos Consultancy relocated to Dubai in 2003, where a team of ﬁve has grown to 50 — with an Abu Dhabi ofﬁce opening in 2008. Our consultants have come from some of the most mature customer service markets in the world, ensuring experience and best practice in everything we do. Ethos prides itself on being at the forefront of online customer service solutions and was awarded Most Innovative Small Business in the UAE at the 2008 Lloyds TSB Small Business Awards. Through years of experience, Ethos has developed a variety of services to help clients understand how their business is performing. Our solutions include mystery shopping, satisfaction surveys and a range of benchmarking services. Once clients have a clear understanding of how they are performing, we help them improve via training, consulting and implementation of The International Customer Service Standard.

• All bars except this month’s winner lost points for not attempting to cross- or up-sell to their customers. This can be achieved by something as simple as suggesting an appetiser to complement a beverage choice, or mentioning a promotion that may be on offer. Training your staff to make such suggestions with confidence can make a huge difference.

Overall Assessment Was the staff knowledgeable about the product/service/food item?

Did the staff try to “up sell” or “cross sell” products or services?

Would your experience encourage you to visit this store/location again?

Would you recommend this location to friends, family or colleagues?

Visit 1

Visit 2

Visit 1

Visit 2

Visit 1

Visit 2

Visit 1

Visit 2

Yes

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December 2009 Caterer Middle East

Editor’s comment Volume 5 Issue 12

Registered at Dubai Media City PO Box 500024, Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 (0)4 210 8000 Fax: +971 (0)4 210 8080 Offices in Dubai & London ITP Business Publishing CEO Walid Akawi Managing Director Neil Davies Deputy Managing Director Matthew Southwell Editorial Director David Ingham VP Sales Wayne Lowery Publishing Director Diarmuid O’Malley Editorial Senior Group Editor Gemma Greenwood Tel: +971 4 435 6262 email: gemma.greenwood@itp.com Editor Lucy Taylor Tel: +971 4 435 6275 email: lucy.taylor@itp.com Assistant Editor Ben Watts Tel: +971 4 435 6289 email: ben.watts@itp.com Advertising Sales Director Alexandra Knight Tel: +971 4 435 6000 email: alexandra.knight@itp.com Commercial Director Sarah Worth Tel: +971 4 435 6374 email: sarah.worth@itp.com Int. Sales Manager, Hospitality & Catering Middle East & India Amanda Stewart GSM: +44 7908 117 333 email: amanda.stewart@itp.com Skype: amandajanestewart Studio Group Art Editor Dan Prescott Photography Director of Photography Sevag Davidian Chief Photographer Khatuna Khutsishvili Senior Photographers Efraim Evidor, Thanos Lazopoulos Staff Photographers Isidora Bojovic, George Dipin, Lyubov Galushko, Jovana Obradovic, Pableo, Rajesh Raghav Production & Distribution Group Production Manager Kyle Smith Production Manager Eleanor Zwanepoel Production Coordinator Sophia White Managing Picture Editor Patrick Littlejohn Distribution Manager Karima Ashwell Distribution Executive Nada Al Alami Circulation Head of Circulations & Database Gaurav Gulati Marketing Head of Marketing Daniel Fewtrell ITP Digital Director Peter Conmy Internet Applications Manager Mohammed Affan ITP Group Chairman Andrew Neil Managing Director Robert Serafin Finance Director Toby Jay Spencer-Davies Board of Directors K M Jamieson, Mike Bayman, Walid Akawi, Neil Davies, Rob Corder, Mary Serafin Circulation Customer Service Tel: +971 4 435 6000 Certain images in this issue are available for purchase. Please contact itpimages@itp.com for further details or visit www.itpimages.com.

Trimming the fat As 2009 draws to a close, many of you in the food and beverage industry will no doubt be far too busy with festive meals and deals to dwell too much on the year we’ve just had, or the new one approaching. But 2009 has taught the region’s F&B professionals some valuable lessons — ones we would all do well to remember. Firstly, that whoever your clientele is, they will appreciate value for money (and that this is by no means the same as being ‘cheap’). Secondly, that a little innovation goes a long way. Sales and marketing departments may have been worked like never before this year, but those who attracted new customers and drove repeat business with clever promotions and offers have proven their worth ten times over. And thirdly, that training staff to deliver top customer service is something that has to be worked at — continuously. If you want diners to keep coming back, particularly now consumer spending has dropped, your staff need more than a one-hour introductory training video: they need skills, knowledge, motivation, passion and drive. This year has not been an easy one, for any industry. Admittedly F&B is always going to be better off than some others — as people like to point out, everyone has to eat — but the economic downturn was a harsh wakeup call; particularly for those fat cats who had strolled in looking to make a quick buck in the hungry Middle East market while the pickings were rich. Now, the fat has been trimmed in a real-time demonstration of the ‘survival of the fittest’ theory, with various concepts closing around the region. Whether these closures were down to ill thought-out concepts, weak offerings or sheer bad luck, the thinning out of F&B offerings in this formerly overcrowded arena will allow the best outlets to really shine through. So put your best foot forward and step into the new year with some bounce in your step: if your operation’s made it through the past 12 months, the lessons mentioned above have undoubtedly come into play — which puts you on much solider ground for 2010. On that note, have a great festive season and see you next year!

Printed by Color Lines Controlled Distribution by Blue Truck The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication, which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances. The ownership of trademarks is acknowledged. No part of this publication or any part of the contents thereof may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form without the permission of the publishers in writing. An exemption is hereby granted for extracts used for the purpose of fair review.

Lucy Taylor, Editor

BPA Worldwide Circulation Statement Average Qualified Circulation 8,209 (July - Dec 2008)

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To subscribe please visit www.itp.com/subscriptions December 2009 009 Caterer Middle East

Comment Culinary confessions

Marcus

Gregs Got the festive fear? ‘Yule’ be sorry if you and your team haven’t done sufficient planning and prep for the F&B festivities Eid Al Adha, Christmas, New Year — the celebration season is unequivocally upon us. By this stage, the promotions for your festive F&B offerings should be in the hands of your sales team, so they can get on with filling not only your stockings but also the banquet rooms and outlets. The decorations should also be going up, for those who go in for that sort of thing. Here in the Middle East, there is a large community who do celebrate Christmas — but it’s nowhere near as hectic as other countries I have worked in. For example, the Sydney Hilton banqueting department dubbed December ‘The Silly Season’, because in Australia this is the month when all the offices hold their annual parties and when schools finish for the year with their graduation balls. So the banqueting team would pump out a carvery lunch for 500, along with 1000 covers plated every day, for the entire month leading up to Christmas. The planning for this month started in August for the sales team — and by September, every function room would be full. By tNovember 1, the kitchen had placed a pre-order for 40,000kg of whole turkey, the butcher had planned how much stuffing he’d need and the sauce chef had started making gravy and freezing it, so as to keep up with the demand in December (when close to 3000 litres of gravy would be consumed!) But the section all the sous chefs had to

Caterer Middle East December 2009

Food is an integral part of festive celebrations. help in November was the pastry section. The amount of time, ingredients and space that 34,000 individual and 3000 large Christmas puddings take up is amazing. It took nine senior chefs four days, working 12 hours a day, to make all these puddings. (Don’t worry — the pastry chef bought quite a few beverages to thank us!) All this comes down to planning and knowing the limitations of your staff and equipment. The more organised you are, the more confident you can be that, no matter what last-minute problems are thrown at you, they can be dealt with. The best example of this I can give (although not the nicest) is also from the Sydney Hilton, when I was a sous chef there.

I was in bed on the morning of December 24 when my phone rang: it was the junior sous chef calling to say that he had just found the head chef in the office, having a (fourth) heart attack. By the time I got to the hotel, the ambulance was pulling away; the chef had survived, but it was a close thing. I now had to deal with 100 very upset kitchen team members, over half of whom had worked with the chef for more than 20 years. The problem was that within 36 hours, 2500 people would be sitting down to Christmas lunch. I was in charge of all the outlets, comprising 1500 covers; usually the chef took the ballroom with 1000 covers in one hit — but now I had to do the ballroom as well… If we had not been so organised, the whole service would have fallen to bits; as it was, the day went totally smoothly, as the nine of us sous chefs rearranged ourselves to compensate. (And don’t worry — 10 years on, the head chef is alive and well and fully enjoying his retirement.) So at the next Christmas party or festive lunch you attend, bear in mind how much pre-planning, organising and work has gone into your meal by those behind the scenes. On second thoughts, don’t worry — just eat, drink, be merry and enjoy your food: it’s our pleasure to make it for you. Ho ho ho and Merry Christmas!

Marcus Gregs Chef Marcus Gregs has worked in kitchens for 18 years, with roles in destinations including London, Sydney and Dubai.

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December 2009 Caterer Middle East

Comment Designer column

Aidan

Keane Control your urges. The worrying trend to selfdesign outlets must be reigned in — after all, it can kill…(businesses and reputations, that is) There has been a worrying trend developing over the last year or so. It comes from an urge that rages inside many people — an urge I have always known about, but one that seemed to be under control; perhaps slipping out occasionally after a few too many vinos, but always safely put away again by morning. But today, control seems to be slipping; folks are giving way to this dark urge, even if it could mean exposing themselves in one of the worst ways possible. The shame will stick and people will talk behind their backs, but regardless, driven by this inner show-off, they go for it, they take the leap and in true movie-makeover announcement fashion (the speech before the cheesy montage reel) they cry: “I’ve got taste, I can do it — I’m going to decorate this place myself and it’s going to look great!” Ah, the old “my apartment looks great” line. How many restaurant, hotel or bar managers have uttered similar sentences? If you are one of those guilty of self-driven design, then stand up now, wherever you are, turn to the next person and say sorry. They will think you have gone insane but that is all you deserve. Just because you can put a post-modern ornament on your Ikea shelf and a coordinated towel set in your guest bathroom, that does not make you a designer; it’s one step up from coordinating your shoes and handbag, for heaven’s sake!

Caterer Middle East December 2009

Keane: self-design can be detrimental to your business. Design works really hard — or rather, good design does. Personal taste, on the other hand, may be nice to see and nice to spend some time with, but often it’s nice to leave, too. There are lots of people with lots of taste but this does not make them design-literate — in much the same way that I could stand up in court and offer a convincing defence for my actions, but pit me against an experienced barrister and I’m going to melt like a snowball in the desert. But I digress: back to this worrying trend. Many of you will agree whole heartedly with my words so far, but others will think I’m being overly defensive, reacting agressively to legitimate competition and market forces. Well, I’m not. I love competition. I love the thrill of hot-house creativity coming from every angle and I believe that everyone is entitled to their opinion.

I’m just very worried at the amount of times I now hear people telling me not to worry, that they’re going to “tart it up themselves”, that it’s a small job and doesn’t require a “serious designer”. This is how it spreads. This is how the poison debilitates. Start small, off radar, then when the culture is accepted go for the big schemes, the vital organs — then suddenly it’s too late: the damage has been done. It’s a trend fuelled by ego and delusion, a trend that grows in times of restricted capital expenditure and prospers with the weak. Great designers are up there with inventors and artists and musicians for me: the middle band of talent. (The top are leading medics, scientists and economists — people who are really changing our world for the better. Then come those in the middle band, who improve life quality for many; then chefs, masseurs and dentists — people who make the moment better.) Great design works really hard, for long after it was conceived. It should inspire your customers, not only giving them ideas for their home and lifestyle, but encouraging them to return. In conclusion, this worrying urge to self-design has to be kept under control. It can kill — businesses and reputations, that is. No one and nothing is safe from its evil. Fight it, don’t let it out, and don’t be tempted to think you can do it yourself. Remember: be safe, use a designer! Aidan Keane is the founder of specialist leisure and retail design ﬁrm Keane; for more information, visit: www.keanebrands.com

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People Training

November 2009

y r a i d e e n i Tra demy of er at the Emirates Aca st me se a of se ur co e Over th through the t, two students take us en em ag an M y lit ita sp Ho rld of F&B induction to the tough wo highs and lows of their

Nasseem Mirtahmasebi has lived in Dubai for six years and N pr previously studied at Jumeirah College. She enjoys living in Dubai and hopes to work in the emirate in future. “I’ve always been interested in hospitality and this is the perfect place to study, considering the boom in tourism in recent years.” I have to say that so far, I’m finding the F&B side of things

really interesting; it’s all very hands-on and practical. It is long hours — eight hours in the restaurant followed by eight hours in

and so it generally flowed quite nicely. But sometimes there was a bit of a panic and I felt I was falling behind.

But then I had a stint at the end as ‘head chef’, and had to

the kitchen straight after — but I’m enjoying it.

assign orders as they came through, and ask the rest of the

think about things from the customer’s point of view. Now, when

definitely more my thing!

We’ve learnt a lot already, and it’s definitely affecting how I

I walk into a restaurant and sit down for dinner, I’m smelling the glasses, checking the set-up, little things I didn’t even notice

before! Because now I really know how much effort has to go in to every details of a restaurant, even if it looks effortless.

This month hasn’t been the easiest start for me: after the

initial orientation class, I was ill and missed the second two

kitchen sessions. And it is difficult — in the kitchen if you miss

even one session there’s a lot to catch up on because there are

so many new skills to learn. We’re being taught cutting methods, cooking methods and all about produce — so there’s a lot for me

group to do specific things, and that was fun. Being in charge is The response from the invited guests was great; they knew

we had just started and were really positive with their feedback, so that was good.

Looking back on the first few weeks, I think the important

thing is to stay on top, do what the chef tells you to and stay on time, then you’ll be fine. It’s just a long day, so you have to make sure you’ve had your breakfast in the morning!

For the coming month, I’m aiming to be on time and on top of

things, and really get quicker overall.

to catch up on.

I came back in time to start on service, serving people in the

restaurant. They could see us in the kitchen while they were

eating, and it was crazy – just go, go, go! You really had to be

on time and I struggled with that a bit. It’s quite a challenge; you have to wash as you go, cook as you go, roll as you go, bake as you go.

orm in Cooking up a st the Emirates n. Academy kitche

We were put in different groups, in charge of different items,

Caterer Middle East December 2009

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November 2009

People Training

Nipul Laxman came to Emirates Academy from the UK, where he studied hospitality and gained first-hand experience working in banqueting for a major hotel brand. “I’ve already had some F&B experience, so I am familiar with the long hours and stresses — but they haven’t put me off!” The first few weeks have been fairly straight-forward, looking

I think my highlight so far has been

at cuts and the correct methods for chopping and so on. There

getting really involved in the kitchen

helps a lot — although I did actually learn a different way to

so that should improve over the next

were several bits and pieces that I had learnt before, which hold a knife when chopping!

A bit of a stumbling block has been the team work; obviously

and out on the floor. We’re working on the team communication, few weeks!

many of the students do not have English as their first lan-

guage. But this is something you have to deal with in a cosmopolitan working environment, so we try to get along with the group

work and get things done as quickly and coherently as possible. There was a lot of new stuff for me as well; in the UK, we’d

Perfecting the . art of plating up

just been thrown in at the deep end a bit and I didn’t know

much of the theory that goes with kitchen work: I didn’t know

what stewing was, I didn’t know what braising was. But here, we start with the theory then put it into practise.

We saw a sushi demonstration as well, which was great —

although I would have liked to try it out myself, after watching how it was done.

We have also taken on the challenge of running an à la carte

menu this month.

I must say there was some disappointment on this front; we

struggled with team work and coordination, and I hope next

month will be much better. But to finish on a positive note, we did at least finish a full service.

I think, as it was the first time for some people doing a full

service, it was always going to be hard to a degree, but from

hereon in I hope all of us will be properly geared up for service.

I am really looking forward to kitchen this month, as I believe

we will not make the mistakes we made last week.

Overall, I’d say I’m definitely enjoying my time in the kitchen,

as I look forward to a better service each coming week and

then also gain the theory knowledge from the presentation in

the kitchen as well as the theory class we have once a week.

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Lecturer’s notes

urer ive chef and senior lect The Academy’s execut month’s key lessons: Michael Kitts shares this

oh November has been intr • The main drive throug set u, rather than the ducing the à la carte men very popular so far! menu, which has proved s are playing a part in • Obviously cooking method . each and every session s on ining has included focuse tra • Product knowledge and beef carcasses, ageing red meat — cuts from products. marbling — and dairy ions on o had to give presentat als e hav • The students s. gra foie ffles, lobster and luxury items: caviar, tru of tions towards the end • We had two demonstra Chinese noodles and the month, one on fresh . another on ice-carving had careers masters we • In the final week, and the students visiting The Academy, dinner for them. hosted a three-course

December 2009 Caterer Middle East

Roundtable Sommeliers

Julien Coron, head sommelier, Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire, InterContinental Hotel Dubai Festival City

Sebastien Duvocelle, assistant F&B director. The Palace — The Old Town

Ritwik Shastri, wine steward, The Exchange Floor, Fairmont Dubai

Eric Artiere, restaurant and events director, Margaux, Souk Al Bahar

Cultivating vine appreciation A select group of the region’s top sommeliers met with Caterer Middle East at French brasserie Margaux in Souk Al Bahar to discuss their roles in today’s restaurant scene and how they hope to see the industry progress in future What exactly does the role of a sommelier involve? Julien Coron: The basis of the work of a sommelier is to make recommendations to guests who are dining in the restaurant, as well as developing the menus, sourcing new products and keeping costs balanced. Eric Artiere: In a restaurant, your role is to get people the best

Caterer Middle East December 2009

bottle at the best price. But working on the floor is probably on about 40% of what comprises a sommelier’s job. The other elements are stock ordering, taking care of turnover and cost prices, and generating profit, which is the most important part of the business. At the end of the day, the beverage element is different in this market as opposed to other areas of the world, such as

www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b

Roundtable Sommeliers

London or wherever. There is a very high percentage of tax on alcoholic beverages. And this makes it a very challenging location for sommeliers. Ritwik Shastri: Yes, I would agree with that. A sommelier’s role is very important because he’s the one who introduces new lines, thinks about what will work, what the client base will like and how much he can actually sell. We have to stock an increasingly wide selection, because people are becoming more knowledgeable and they want to order specific vintages. A sommelier’s job can also include updating beverage menus, taking team training so they can efficiently sell and understand the products, dealing with suppliers to get the best price, and trying to keep your beverage costs at the budgeted level. Are there any particular trends you’re seeing in this market at the moment? Sebastien Duvocelle: Well, I’ve only really be exposed to the UK market and the French market, and I find that the market here is similar to how the UK trends were looking a few years ago. So about six years ago in Britain, people were really looking for New World varieties; that particular market was booming — and that’s what’s happening right now in Dubai. It’s the same thing with other beverage trends and I think it has a lot to do with the people living in Dubai and also the transit factor, the people passing through this region from other parts of the world. Also, the major trend right now is very much on quality rather than quantity.

Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire’s Julien Coron.

Shastri: I would say the trends have changed now because Artiere: In my view, this area of business was pretty badly hit the clients are becoming smarter and more knowledgeable by the financial crisis over this past year. Fortunately things about what they’re drinking; they want to make sure they’re now seem to be picking up and we’re hoping the coming year getting real value for what they’re paying. So there are clients will see a bit more turnover. who will still spend, as long as they can understand the value Sebastien interestingly noted the trends reflectbehind the price. ing London; London has always been number one But the enthusiasm for education is something The major market in this industry. we’re really seeing, which is why we have started The Middle East seems to take a lot from trend right now our monthly master-classes at Fairmont. And once London, as well as the Asian market. There are a people learn about a grape variety that they like, is quality rather they will return and they will look for it. lot of influences here — ex-pats from all over the world, and that’s what makes it such an interesting than quantity” Coron: As a sommelier, I would say it’s your job to region to be in. educate and broaden people’s tastes. For example, But we are still in a situation where business is if someone loves a particular grape variety, always not at the stage it was before, when people were drinks it and therefore asks for it with their meal as a matter spending an incredible amount on beverages. of course, regardless of what they’re eating, I would see my job And it is more difficult for us nowadays, because you still as to say ‘Yes, that’s a wonderful bottle — but this one shares need to generate profit knowing that the average customer some characteristics that you might enjoy and also goes very spend has been reduced.

“

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December 2009 Caterer Middle East

Roundtable

Produced using

Sommeliers

Roundtable Sommeliers

Stollen Pleasures…

Margaux’s Artiere discusses current market trends. well with the dish you have selected; perhaps you would care to try it instead?’ Duvocelle: This has a lot to do with the environment where you’re working. For example, in Margaux, you would expect and hope to see a lot of French varieties on the list. ew e e w t ad e e t ttheme, e e, suc sado, ou In so somewhere with different such as Asado, our authentic Argentinean steakhouse, you have to specifically push products from that part of the world. And this does help in guiding the consumer, because you have an identity and a structure behind your menu, so your beverages match both the food and the experience.

Authentic Christmas Stollen

Coron: At Reflets, we try to offer our guests a full experience, and that’s what they come expecting; so very often we

Timeless tradition and Ěavor in every bite, for a truly merry Christmas.

Margaux’s Eric Artiere. UK

Dubai

Doha

Bahrain

P.O. Box: 18926 Dubai UAE.Tel: +971 4 2675406 Fax:+971 4 2675409 Email: bakemart@emirates.net.ae Website: www.bakemart.net www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b www w ww w w.h w.ho .ho hottel ho te elier ierrmid rmi mid mid iddleeas dle d lle ee ea eas ast. as tt.c .c com om/ o m/ff&b f& & &b b

Roundtable Sommeliers

The group assesses the challenges facing sommeliers in the Middle East. have gues guests ts wh who ask our advice and want to ta ake ou take our recommendations ring w about pair pairing wine and food; so in ry rar fact they ve very rarely select a bottle emsel entirely by the themselves. What are the th he m main challenges facing somme elier in the Middle sommeliers tod day? East today? Artiere: Artie ere: The T price of the producct, the price of stocking and uct, tryying to t find the best way to trying geet quality qua get and volume at the rigght price. pr right W operate op We with two good coompan here in Dubai, companies booth of w both whom offer a differentt rang range of products — but The Palace — The Old Town’s the ere are only these two, so we there pur rchase what they offer and Sebastien Duvocelle. purchase tha at’s that. th that’s Du Duvocelle: uvocel If you want somethin ng the thing then you simply have to b buy it, regardless of price. Tha at’s a key challenge. That’s

26 26

Cate Ca Caterer atte erre er M Mi Middle id dd dlle eE East asst December a Dec De ce emb em mber 2 2009

Shastri: I think another factor we’re dealing with here is that you get an extremely diverse range of clients. You have to make sure you stock a wide range to appeal to all customer bases. Duvocelle: Our sommelier has a skill to sell, so it is somewhat about consumers and trends, but I think at some point when you have very qualified people arriving in the market, then the trend will follow the sommelier themselves as they set it, rather than customers dictating them as is the case now. Are you onding that consumers are increasingly interested in learning about what they’re purchasing? Shastri: It’s definitely a trend we’re seeing and that we’re catering for with our guest master-classes. And this helps a great deal in educating the customer regarding what we offer on our menu, so they do come back and order it. Artiere: We produce a page on the menu called ‘The Sommelier’s Selection’, where we showcase the best lines on the market at the moment. We also have other promotions planned for the future, such as inviting famous vineyard owners to come to Margaux for a few nights, along with a famous chef, then having clients from our database come along for an evening and enjoy an amazing gastronomic experience, trying really specifically-paired foods and vintages.

www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b t.com/f& f&b

Roundtable Sommeliers

Since the economic downturn has impacted consumer spend, how are you balancing customer expectations with costs? Duvocelle: We’re very lucky and haven’t been affected by the downturn, thank goodness; we are one of the very fortunate companies that is still growing. We have not had to increase prices and we have not changed our strategy this year, nor are we planning to do so. We have simply continued doing what we do: offering guests quality and value for money. Artiere: From an operational stand-point, we are quite a different offering: firstly we are independent, so we are not tied to a hotel, and we actually rely on The Palace for our license — of course, we have to pay for delivery with that. And this does impact how profitable an operation can be. It’s a different challenge from working in a hotel; in an independent company you are dealing with your own strengths and weaknesses head-on, because you have nothing else to balance the F&B side out, like other outlets, or rooms, or banqueting. We are just our own operation, we are what we are. Location-wise, we have an outstanding spot; we just need to see that pay off more now the economy is picking up. How would you like to see the industry change in future? Artiere: I think if you look at September and October 2008, we have been badly hit since then with a difficult year. But that period seems to be coming to an end — it’s not totally finished, but things are getting better. We are at a stage now where quite a lot of people are coming to Margaux, experiencing what we have to offer. But it’s not like in the past, when things were so busy — it was go, go, go all the time at outlets in Dubai. Fairmont Dubai’s So in future if Ritwik Shastri. we could maybe go back to a situation approaching that, not the same but approaching it, that would make a big difference in the coming year. Shastri: I think we’re going to

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Margaux’s Eric Artiere and Reflets’ Julien Coron weigh up their responses. see people moving more towards drinking a wider range of vintages and grape varieties, so our suppliers here will bring a broader variety in. Duvocelle: I think the future is in the hands of independent outlets, such as Margaux. At the moment, hotels are supplying these independent outlets with their licenses — but in future, who knows; maybe we’ll see real free-standing structures being permitted licenses. Of course, we have to bear in mind the cultural side of where we are living — so whether that is asking too much, I don’t know. But the only way to progress and really nurture this business will be to have free-standing outlets with licenses. Coron: I’d like to see more sommeliers operating here and consequently having more buying power. And with greater communication within the sommelier community, we could group together to request that our suppliers bring in a certain product; that way we could actually set the trends regarding what people are drinking.

Industry insight Catering for kids

They may be small, but kids mean big business: F&B operators from family-friendly outlets around the Middle East explain why targeting the ‘little bosses’ when it comes to food means their parents will follow

oasting beautiful beaches, picturesque mountains and culture-filled capitals, as well as a multitude of inviting hotels, the Middle East has naturally become an extremely popular destination for families. But activities and attractions only go so far: to be a real hit with this client base, operators have to keep the kids happy: and this is where the F&B department must step up. At Shangri-La’s Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa, executive chef Beat Enderli typically sees 70% to 80% of the clientele made up of families with children during peak holiday season, while the remainder of the year sees that figure average out at 30-40%. Le Méridien Al Aqah Beach Resort director of F&B Gian Raffaele Sabbatucci sees similar figures, noting: “This has always been a family-friendly resort and all the outlets here were introduced based on our customers’ feedback, so this element was taken into consideration in the development of every offering.” At Doha Marriott, executive chef Reinhard Fuchs says about 60% of his clientele is made up of families. “Usually the kids make the choice about where to eat; the parents will follow them,” he observes. Caprice Holdings Dubai executive chef Chris Lester, who heads up the kitchen at Souk Al Bahar’s Rivington Grill, agrees. “We developed our kids menu right at the start —

Caterer Middle East December 2009

www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b

Industry insight Catering for kids

we knew who our clientele would be,” he says. “Accommodating the children was essential, because their parents are our customers. “In the development stages of the menu, we looked at it from a wellbeing angle, but also at things that children like. It’s all very well putting on things that are good for them, but they’ve got to want to eat it. “At the end of the day, the children can often influence the parents about where they go to eat; if they’re happy and comfortable with the food, the whole family will come back — and that’s what it’s all about, repeat business,” he points out. It seems targeting children can pay off — but with so much competition in this field, operators are continuously vying for custom by introducing new and unusual promotions and attractions. Sheraton Abu Dhabi Hotel and Resort director of F&B Julide Nuss-Ozbilge notes that in addition to offering family packages for rooms which include a free meal for children below 12 years when eating with an adult, the property has established a dedicated children’s corner at its Friday brunch, with games, DVDs and face painting. “Kids love that and parents are quite happy about the ‘alonetime’ they can spend with each other,” she notes. Kids staying at Kempinski Hotel Ajman are all offered a glass of bed-time milk free of charge, while Shangri-La’s Barr Al Jissah Resort wins its kiddie clientele over with timely treats. “Upon check-in we provide little ice-cream treats for the children, and we have plans to introduce a hot chocolate station during breakfast as well as a strolling cotton candy and popcorn cart,” explains Shangri-La’s Enderli. “Of course, dedicated children menus are available at various dining outlets and as a standard practice, dishes are prepared free of trans-fat with reduced salt, pepper and chilli,” he adds. At Le Méridien’s Penguin Club for youngsters, it has initiated a ‘Make Your Own Pizza’ programme, which Sabbatucci says has proved “very popular with the junior chefs”. Meanwhile Doha Marriot has its Just for Kids Catering scheme, which was created “to provide busy mums and dads with nutritious alternatives to junk food”, says Fuchs.

10%

Sheraton Abu Dhabi offers kids the chance to decorate their own gingerbread house. “This menu can be tailor-made to any party theme,” he explains. “We will accommodate special dietary requirements, including requests from parents for fun yet healthy party goodies.” At Rivington Grill, Lester believes the key to keeping younger

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Industry insight Catering for kids

“As a company providing for children, you must ensure that whatever you are offering is fun-filled and at the same time that parents are confident that all is up to standard,” “One of our little guests asked the chef to serve up a she asserts. duo of hotdog and ice cream on one plate! He seemed As part of this, it is essential to to enjoy the combination.” check up on any lurking dietary Julide Nuss-Ozbilge, director of F&B, requirements or any intolerance Sheraton Abu Dhabi Hotel and Resort towards specific foods, notes Le Méridien’s Sabbatucci. “One of the strangest requests we ever had from a kid Rivington Grill’s Lester agrees: “For was to serve him just mashed vegetables and mashed some reason, there do seem to be more ﬁsh with no seasoning.” allergies around nowadays. Sailesh Balan, executive sous chef, “But parents will tell us what their Kempinski Hotel Ajman children can have and then it’s up to us to make that happen if we possibly “We have actually had a guest request broccoli in Kempinski’s Sailesh Balan. can. It’s about understanding their chocolate sauce with vanilla ice cream for a child!” needs and being prepared to work Gian Raffaele Sabbatucci, director of F&B, clients — and consequently their pararound them.” Le Méridien Al Aqah Beach Resort ents — happy is being flexible. Le Méridien’s Sabatucci adds that “If someone wants to switch broccoli promoting the benefits of healthy for peas or something, then we’ll do eating can be tricky. “Most of the that; if their mum wants something steamed or cooked without time, parents order for their kids and the ‘little bosses’ refuse to butter for them, we’ll do that too,” he says. accept those choices when the order comes,” he says. “We’re here to accommodate; no menu is going to suit every“But the presentation of food plays a key role here; children’s one so we simply try to be as adaptable as possible. dishes need to be eye-catching and colourful to ensure easy ac“These guys are our guests of tomorrow,” he points out. “We’ve ceptance — and minimum hassle for the parents.” got to look after them so they come back. There is an element of Kempinski Hotel Ajman executive sous chef Sailesh Balan education in there.” agrees that persuading children to eat fresh vegetables and According to Sheraton’s Nuss-Ozbilge, the main thing to keep healthy food can be difficult — “as is fielding a menu without in mind when catering for children is always the safety and chicken nuggets or fries, as kids are always asking for them,” security of the youngsters. he adds. But by keeping to youngsters’ preferences as well as subtly adhering to what parents want, there is a balance to be struck. According to Le Méridien’s Sabbatucci, parents todays are “more conscious about food choices and want their kids to migrate from junk food to healthy nutritional foods”. “Starting to eat healthily at an early age is gaining in popularity — and when it comes to buffets, children love it when fruits and vegetables are well presented,” he says. But Shangri-La’s Enderli says kids are still fighting for their right to junk food, while Kempinski’s Balan notes that many “follow the unhealthy eating habits of their parents”. Sheraton’s Nuss-Julide says she is “very disappointed to see that children continue to eat unhealthily here”. “But as a new F&B director in town, I want to increase the efforts of Sheraton Abu Dhabi in providing healthy options for The Surf Cafe at Shangri-La’s Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa. children,” she continues.

What’s the strangest thing you’ve been asked to cook for a child?

Caterer Middle East December 2009

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Industry insight Catering for kids

“We are planning to implement more items that kids will enjoy and that are eye-catching, but which are also healthy.” Rivington Grill’s Lester admits: “I’ve seen parents here who only feed their kids rubbish, or won’t let them try new things — but there are other options out there. “I know kids aren’t easy, but I think it is possible to strike a balance between feeding them well and keeping them happy.” Lester also points out that the Middle East has a notable eatingout culture, which children are involved in from an early age. “It’s part of the weekly routine for a combination of reasons — people seem to be very busy, produce in supermarkets isn’t what it is in certain other parts of the world, families like to eat together, and restaurants have a great range. “Kids here do eat out regularly and we’re very conscious of that,” he says. “So we do try to offer our younger customers something they’ll enjoy and want to come back for — because very often kids will make the call on where to eat, so if they like somewhere, the family will come as well!” For those who count families as a major portion of the clientele, it is vital to remember that your offering must appeal to the children as well as the adults — and by satisfying and impressing both parties will you see these customers quickly added to your regular client base.

Rivington Grill’s Chris Lester.

Caterer Middle East Awards 2009 Sponsored by The Hotel Show

Meet the industry

champions of 2009!

Caterer Middle East December 2009

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Caterer Middle East Awards 2009 Sponsored by The Hotel Show

Caterer Middle East applauds the winners of its first annual F&B industry awards â&#x20AC;&#x201D; accolades aimed at recognising those outstanding food and beverage professionals who are championing the industry on a daily basis across the region

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December 2009 Caterer Middle East

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Caterer Middle East Awards 2009 Sponsored by The Hotel Show

Sponsored by Tulsidas Lalchand

Repets par Pierre Gagnaire InterContinental Hotel Dubai Festival City Judges’ notes: Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire’s practice of hiring staff based on their personality, manners and attitude is a method which, thanks to solid in-house training and the passion and dedication shown by senior team members, has clearly paid off. All team members have demonstrated evident enthusiasm to learn during the restaurant’s first year of operations, driving business with a sterling reputation founded on their constant determination to exceed customer expectations, as well as the personalised approach to service. A word from the winner: “To win this is fantastic, but the best thing is how successful the year has been for us as a restaurant. “It’s great to be celebrated as a restaurant, but behind a restaurant there are always people; so a team award really is fitting. It’s the human factor that keeps people coming back. “This is why the Caterer Awards are so important — because as great as the restaurant design is, as great as every element is, it’s the people who are making it all happen. So this is really fantastic. “We are very lucky to have the team we have; they have a lot of integrity, a lot of passion and the chemistry has really worked out. So they truly deserve this award.” Etienne Haro, restaurant director, Repets par Pierre Gagnaire Highly commended Rodeo Grill Restaurant and Bar, Al Bustan Rotana Dubai Ruth’s Chris Steak House, at The Monarch Dubai

The Reﬂets par Pierre Gagnaire restaurant team.

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Tulsidas Lalchand’s Punit Bhatia presents the award to Etienne Haro.

Caterer Middle East Awards 2009 Sponsored by The Hotel Show

Kitchen Team of the Year Emirates Flight Catering EKFC1 Judges’ notes: The team at Emirates Flight Catering has demonstrated the clear ability to work to deadlines under great pressure and produce huge volumes of food to exacting standards. The kitchen members also demonstrate their versatility by operating a daily fine-dining service at the Emirates Training Centre, and providing catering for various high-profile Dubai events. This group’s dedication, commitment and camaraderie marked them out as a truly deserving winner.

A word from the winner: “This is really exciting for us — catering iss really ts, so to often associated with hotels and restaurants, ic for gain recognition in this way is just fantastic our team. ct that “I think what gave us the edge was the fact we’re doing 70,000 meals a day, plus a fine dining restaurant. Those volumes and the diversityy of what he judges we do is quite overwhelming. And I think the n all of picked up on the effort it takes to deliver on those promises successfully.” ent, James Grifoth, assistant vice president, Emirates Flight Catering EKFC1

Highly commended Main kitchen, Jumeirah Emirates Towers rs Main kitchen, Ramses Hilton Emirates Flight Catering EKFC1’s kitchen team.

Bar Team of the Year Tamanya Terrace Radisson Blu Hotel Dubai Media City Rad The Tamanya Terrace team. Judges notes: Judges’ The chee cheery attitude and proactive approach to service demonstr demonstrated by the Tamanya Terrace bar team marked them oout as truly driven and dedicated bar professionals, set s on delivering a top customer experience. T Testimonials from the whole team indicated a po positive spirit and high level of commitment to b both the guests and the business itself, which has s seen the outlet perform consistently well despite t economic slowdown affecting business. the

Caterer Middle East December 2009

A word from the winner: “When I found out, I was just so happy — and we’re delighted that the hotel and the Tamanya Terrace team has been recognised. They all do a great job, and we’re so grateful to Caterer for recognising that. “I think it all comes down to team-work; this team has been working with me for the past four years and I haven’t lost anyone. They’re really happy in what they do, and that translates into their service.” Chaminda Siriwardane, bar manager, Tamanya Terrace, Radisson Blu Hotel Dubai Media City

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Caterer Middle East Awards 2009 Sponsored by The Hotel Show

Chefs’ Choice Awards Food Supplier of the Year Fo

Highly commended Horeca Trade

Fresh Express Fr

Jud Judges’ notes: Offeri genuine support and care for their clients, Offering Fresh Express is a firm that goes the extra mile to delive deliver orders and fulfill last minute requests. In ad addition to supporting the industry at various loca local events and competitions, the team itself was ob obviously a key factor in customer loyalty. V Vanessa in particular from the sales team stood o as a “supplier star”, having undertaken delivout e eries herself to help out a panicked customer.

A word from the winner: “It’s wonderful to get recognised by Caterer in this way. “We have been operating in the UAE for the past 40 years and to have someone come along and say ‘yes, you have done a great job’ — that means a lot to us.” Costas Bouyoukas, founder and managing director, Fresh Express

Fresh Express’ John Vouyoukas and Costas Bouyoukas.

Beverage Supplier of the Year B

MMI M Judg Judges’ notes: The ssales staff at MMI were praised for showing enthu enthusiasm and constant support to their clients. The support for staff training and for clients in Their devel developing promotions was also highly commended. A word from the winner: “W “We’re very pleased for the whole team. It’s been t a tough year, so we’ve just helped clients wherever p possible and we’ll take this strength into 2010.” T Tony Dodds, general manager on-trade, MMI

The MMI team celebrates the win.

Best Client Support of the Year

James Mather Jam Key account a manager, MMI Judges’ n notes: James Mather Ma was singled out for his efforts in implemen implementing product training amongst his clients, a his continued support during events or for as well as last-m last-minute requests. M Mather has also proved himself more than willing to take the initiative, suggesting new ideas for events, complementary products for his cli clients’ menu deals and consistent support for pr promotional events.

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A word from the winner: “It’s fantastic to have won — I still can’t quite believe it! “It’s great to have this recognition; to be seen to be doing it right by your customers is a great honour. “And although it’s a cliché, and one I promised I wouldn’t use, I have to mention that it really does come down to the team you have around you. “MMI has a great infrastructure in place, which makes things that little bit easier and gives us the time to really focus on our customers. So our success in client support really owes a lot to that.”

December 2009 Caterer Middle East

Ingredient focus Desserts

Renaissance Dubai Hotel assistant pastry chef Achala Weerasinghe.

Sweet success As a growing number of highly-skilled pastry chefs take up positions in the region’s kitchens, the Middle East is fast becoming a hub of culinary innovation and intriguing design. Ben Watts speaks to pastry chefs to find out what’s fuelling the dessert explosion As the region’s hospitality industry catches up with the high standards set in the USA, Europe and the Far East, one section of the backroom team is beginning to turn heads around the world. The region’s pastry chefs are becoming a force to be reckoned with at an international level, as Shangri-La Hotel, Qaryat Al Beri, pastry chef Ajmal Salim is keen to point out. “Considering how many hotels and outlets there are in and around the Middle

Caterer Middle East December 2009

East, the standard is incredibly high,” says Salim. “I’ve travelled to America, Switzerland, Europe and Far East Asia, and I know where we stand: we are right there, and we can compete with any other country in terms of our pastry skills.” The region’s diners are increasingly expecting to be ‘wowed’ by their dessert selection, as well as their main course. Renaissance Dubai Hotel assistant pastry chef Achala Weerasinghe says it can be hard to point to exactly what the Middle

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Ingredient focus Desserts

Culinary delights on display at a recent dessert demonstration, organised by ingredient supplier EMF Emirates. East diner looks for in a dessert, due to the diversity of cultures found in the region. “All diners look for a dessert that will complement their meal,” observes Weerasinghe. “Hopefully they will leave the hotel with memories of rich, sweet, melt-in-themouth desserts that make them come back wanting more. “On an à la carte menu, the desserts have

to be able to complement the main courses and at the same time be exciting,” he says. “There are only the adventurous few that will step beyond the norm and try out a dessert that is truly out of this world; the rest always look for that homemade taste.” Daniel Mayor, pastry chef at Radisson Blu Hotel, Kuwait, says that due to the popular tradition of oriental pastries in this

part of the world, general demand tends to move towards sweeter desserts. However his best sellers are bucking the regional trend, generally being of European style and origin. Mayor comments: “In the pastry shop of the Radisson Blu Hotel, Kuwait, traditional European cakes such as apple pie, sacher cake, tiramisu and berry mousse cake are

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Ingredient focus Desserts

the best sellers. But I believe this preference is symptomatic of the guests we see coming to the property — in our case, mainly international business travellers. “I have also noted that desserts with chocolate as main ingredient are very popular, maybe because chocolate is perceived as a luxurious product in the region,” he remarks.

Attention seekers Promoting sweets can be a tough challenge according to pastry chefs; especially with main course menus stealing the limelight. Renaissance’s Weerasinghe says that a pastry chef ’s artistic touch does this job for him. nique “There is only one technique omote a pastry chef can use to promote hrough their desserts and that is through the eyes,” he explains. rnishes “I make sure that the garnishes ne I use are from fresh and fine uits and ingredients — from the fruits hocolates that berries that I use, to the chocolates essert.” enhances the look of the dessert.” Radisson’s Mayor notes that

Caterer Middle East December 2009

nowadays desserts have a role to play in advertising the hotel’s offering. “We have regular dessert speciality weeks in our coffee shop reflecting the seasonal tastes and then those specialties are promoted in the local media and within our hotel outlets,” he notes. “We do not really have a dessert menu in our fine-dining restaurant, but a classical dessert trolley is served in our Chinese restaurant.”

Food oght W more and more With co competitions filling up the culinary calendar across the Middle East, the aesthetic of desserts now play aesthetics an import important role in promoting the inno innovation of chefs working in the regio region’s kitchens. H Shangri-La Hotel, Qaryat Al Beri’s t Salim remarks that the region’s pastry chefs are now recognised on the t global stage for their creative talent. re “I think in this region the pastry chefs are some of the th most innovative,” he says. “W “We’re definitely on a par with the best in the world;

compared to some areas, we are actually further ahead, but if you look at it overall we’re right there with any other country in terms of fineness and quality of the products we’re producing. “I think this progress is to do with the exposure this region has had to international influences,” continues Salim. “The flow of ex-pats coming into the region, the type of training they’ve had and also the information they receive. “Look at the amount of magazines and the amount of information available on the internet, and the competitions and events going on around the globe today; when you witness more inner creativity coming out you want to create more and be more innovative.”

Fresh supplies Radisson’s Mayor says even in a developing culinary market such as Kuwait’s, a wide range of ingredients can be purchased. “In Kuwait a good range of pastry ingredients are available, but as soon as you search for something ‘out of the box’, limitations arise due to the lack of demand, unrealistic prices and restricted food market supply,” he says.

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Ingredient focus Desserts

Zsuzsanna Kilián

“In developed hospitality markets, this quickly changes due to new demands.” But even when ingredients are hard to come by, it seems many pastry chefs try to avoid purchasing entirely ready-made frozen alternatives. Renaissance’s Weerasinghe comments: “Purchasing frozen desserts is definitely something I try to avoid.

“Our guests at the hotel look for that homemade touch and I make sure that I am involved from start to the finish of every product that reaches the counter at our pastry shop. “No one can ever be sure of who touches what and what goes where if it comes in frozen, wrapped up in a company logo,” he says.

It seems that as long as the region’s chefs devote time to culinary creativity, the future of the sweet and dessert segment of the Middle East’s culinary industry is assured. And with consistent supplier support regarding the availability of ingredients, the region has the potential to become a leading light on the global dessert stage.

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Supplier news December 2009

Supplier news

Bakers to benefit from industry guild Region’s first bakery and pastry guild offers networking opportunity for bakers, chefs and suppliers The region’s pastry and bakery chefs are set to benefit from the launch of a new culinary guild designed to support the future of the baking and pastry industries across the GCC. Ton Seuren, chairman of Dubai-based Baking Technologies — the company behind the guild’s launch — said it was a place where pastry chefs and bakers would be able to exchange ideas and discuss current and future trends within the baking industry. “We soft-launched the guild six months ago,” said Seuren. “Bakers and pastry chefs will benefit by being members as they will get access to all the guild’s future activities, including training seminars, competitions and quarterly newsletters, as well as future bakery and pastry lunches and dinners.” The organisation will target representatives from suppliers, manufacturers, hotels, retailers and bakeries, and has so far received positive feedback from at least 350 interested parties and individuals, according to Seuren.

Bakers will have the chance to discuss ideas and trends at guild events. “Support for pastry chefs and bakers in the region is limited to supplier seminars and onsite training sessions,” remarked Seuren. “Employers are giving in-house training, but as of now there is no formal

recognised body carrying out training in the GCC.” Bakers will be able to register as members of the guild for free from December 20, 2009 at www.baking-technologies.com.

Host of products on show in Italy Fries for a healthMilan hospitality showcase Host Show has given suppliers a much-needed boost in the current economic climate, providing a forum for exhibtors to showcase new culinary innovations and meet new customers. “This year’s Host Show was a great opportunity to win new customers and distributors, and to strengthen existing relations with our valued partners,” commented kitchen equipment manufacturer Manitowoc Foodservice. The German firm also used the show as an opportunity to demonstrate its latest brands and equipment. Held bi-annually at the Fiera Milano exhibition centre in Milan, Italy, Oc-

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tober’s Host Exhibition International show attracted more than 125,000 visitors from the global hospitality industry.

Manitowoc presented its products at Italian exhibition.

conscious market Food manufacturer Lamb Weston has launched a range of unusually healthy fries, made from sweet potatoes. According to the foodstuff firm, the orange flesh Sweet Potato Fries, which are available in the UAE through supplier Horeca Trade, combine “a tender texture with a bright, vivid colour”. “Sweet Potato Fries can be combined with meat dishes, but can also be served as side dish or snack,” the company said. “Sweet potatoes are one of the most nutritious root vegetables and our Sweet Potato Fries are a natural source of fibre and potassium.”

December 2009 Caterer Middle East

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Supplier news December 2009

Dessert experts turn out for sweet demos Dubai firm hails dessert show a culinary success

Rendez-vous Gastronomique proved a treat for region’s chefs. The fourth edition of Rendez-vous Gastronomique took place last month, providing dessert chefs from across the region with the opportunity to learn about the latest trends from Europe. The demonstration, organised by Dubai-based supplier EMF Emirates, featured three renowned specialists demonstrating recipes and trade tools to visiting chefs. EMF Emirates general manager Pierre Feghali commented: “This is the fourth time we have held the event and it’s becoming a tradition now.” This year’s guest of honour was French pastry chef Emmanuel Ryon, an expert on ice cream who was named World Champion of Pastry at the age of at 25. Demonstrating their sweet techniques alongside Ryon were fellow European dessert specialists Philippe Marand and Philippe Bertrand. “They bring with them new takes and ideas,” remarked Feghali. “What a chef looks for at this event is the right ingredients, the right tools and the right techniques. “What we are trying to bring them is new ingredients and inventions to help them create something new — we try to push the limit of their talent as much as possible.” More than 130 chefs attended the last two editions of the show and this year’s demonstration proved equally popular with chefs coming from across the region, according to organisers. “I was pleased to see a lot of chefs from Abu Dhabi and four from Oman,” noted Feghali. “The word is spreading around the region’s chefs.”

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Show reviews December 2009

A caffeine kick from beverage bonanza The Middle East tea and coffee industry’s first dedicated trade event makes its debut in Dubai The region’s first trade show dedicated to the tea and coffee trade took place last month, with exhibitors from across the region showcasing their beverage products. The Specialty Coffee and Tea Convention also featured the first UAE Barista Championship, adding extra sparkle to the show. Bringing together a range of regional and national suppliers, the event at Al Bustan Rotana Dubai also provided a series of seminars and workshops for attendees, on topics ranging from espresso basics to franchise opportunities. Merchant Star International managing director Ali Kadkhodaei, whose company is the regional distributor partner of Austrian coffee firm Julius Meinl, described the show as a “coffee connoisseur’s haven”. “Being involved with a show that targets coffee and tea is important for us,” he added. “I think the quality of people here has been high, as they were all involved in the industry and a show like this is a good place for us to target customers in the UAE.” Boncafé Middle East marketing and PR

Coffee Planet’s Richard Jones.

Merchant Star International’s Ali Kadkhodaei.

manager Sally Francis said that the show had also been a good opportunity to check out competitors. “We will probably do it again next year, even if the footfall was smaller than we imagined,” commented Francis. “It has been good for the industry however, and we have to be here — not to be involved would be bad for business.” Coffee Planet managing director Richard

Jones added that the UAE Barista Championship had been a valuable opportunity for the industry to pay attention to its key service staff. “The region’s coffee market is still immature and the barista profession needs to be better supported in the region,” he said. “A show like this is about putting the UAE on the map; it is all about networking and not so much about business.”

Success is sweet for confectionary showcase The sweet and confectionary market showed its recessionbeating form at this year’s successful Sweets Middle East. The event was held in a slightly smaller venue from last year’s edition, which according to Dubai World Trade Centre exhibitions and events director Mark Napier was actually better suited to the event. Despite this move, the busy event saw a similar number of exhibitors and attendees as last year, claimed Napier.

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“We saw eight or nine major business deals being made on the first day of the show and we have seen more new companies coming to the event,” he commented. “Shows like Sweets Middle East have established themselves in the last few years and next year the show will be at least 30% bigger.” Exhibiting the brand’s unique camel chocolates at the event, Al Nassma Chocolate general manager Martin Van

Al Nassma’s Martin Van Almsick.

Almsick said the show had been “very busy” and noted that he had been impressed with the quality of visitors to the exhibition. Almsick commented: “While a lot of people may have heard of us, they have never had a chance to try our product, so for us this show is all about going back to your roots and working on your home clientele.” “We will definitely come back as you should never neglect your core market,” he added.

December 2009 Caterer Middle East

Show reviews December 2009

Quality over quantity at Equip’Hotel A quieter year for Equip’Hotel but exhibitors and visitors remain positive at the Abu Dhabi event Despite being noticeably quieter than last year’s debut edition, exhibitors at Equip’Hotel Middle East 2009 identified Abu Dhabi as a key market for the New Year , while buyers were impressed with the quality of products on offer. The show attracted suppliers from accoss the world, such as first-time exhibitors Miscellaneous Creative Aesthetic Arts (MCAA) from the Philippines. “We established the company last year and this is our first step into the UAE. We want to open trade relations in Abu Dhabi. We haven’t closed any transactions yet, but we’re optimistic,” said MCAA president Jerry Bañares. Another first-time exhibitor, Dubai-based Modern Interior Technology general manager Omar Fansa said: “Abu Dhabi’s market has a lot of potential for us; it has not been affected by the financial crisis like Dubai.” Fansa said the first day of the show had been quieter than expected, but that business had picked up on the second day, with a good selection of visitors, including project designers, contractors and operators. King Stores Hospitality executive — insti-

Exhibitors and visitors where fewer in number at this year’s Equip’Hotel in Abu Dhabi. tutional sales Jude Varghese echoed Fansa’s comments. He said the show has been “fair”, with the second day proving better than the first. Dimlaj marketing manager Syed Amjad Ali agreed, adding that despite being on the quiet side, the “quality of customer at the show was good”.

Plenty of companies used the show as a platform to launch new products, including Bentley, which unveiled its new half-litre kettle to the region. “An international hotel chain asked us to develop a smaller kettle to save water and energy. Every contribution helps,” remarked sales and marketing director Dion Bosch.

Specialist trade show gives boost to halal industry The UAE’s premier halal exhibition returned for its third straight year, proving that the halal movement is going from strength to strength globally. Exhibitors from the Far East, Europe and the Middle East turned out to showcase their halal-certified products at the Halal Expo 2009 — Dubai. National Feedlot Corporation (NFC) executive director Wan Shahinur Izmir, representing the Malaysian meat manufacturer at the Madinat Jumeirah show, said the event had been a success for the firm.

Caterer Middle East December 2009

“It’s been good exposure for us, but on a smaller scale than Gulfood,” commented Izmir. “We’re looking for buyers and distributors and have been reasonably happy with the show; it’s been a good introduction to the region’s market for us.” Le Macchie Tartufi owner Gino Patini said the event had been an opportunity to open doors in the Middle East for his truffle firm. “We are not currently present in Dubai or the Middle East market, but we will leave here happy as it has been a chance to meet chefs in Dubai,” noted Patini.

NFC’s Wan Shahinur Izmir.

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Show Lavazza Euroreviews Coffee Require: December 2009 Fully qualified Barista

Flying high in times of trouble ITCA returns despite trials and tribulations facing the airline industry The International Travel Catering Association (ITCA) returned to the Middle East for its three-day airline catering exhibition at Dubai World Trade Centre last month, following what has been a difficult period for the airline industry. Tough economic factors have affected the market in recent months; however this was not enough to lower the optimism of exhibitors at the event. Ghraoui Chocolate Industry vice-president Mohamed Midani said: “We started selling to airlines a few years back and we like the field as it offers high exposure and high quantities of business. “It is good to come and meet all the regional airlines in one place; admittedly it was smaller than we expected, but this gave us more one-on-one time with our clients.” Gourmet House sales and marketing manager Delphine Lannoy remarked that the industry had been struggling in

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Fully qualified Coffee Machine Technician Minimum 3 years Experience Gourmet House displays its caviar products for aviation representatives. recent months, but insisted that the overriding importance lay in having a presence at the show. “Business has been down from last year, but it is important to just be here and even now we are planning to be at the next edition of the show,” she explained. “The industry has been affected, but it is important to attend events such as ITCA, because if the airlines did not see us here

one year they may think we were no longer interested in them.” Another company who left the show in high spirits was Spanish olive oil producer and supplier Alcalá Oliva. Business development manager Ángela Pérez Linde remarked: “Our product is specifically designed for airline catering, and while we have a lot of hard work to do after the show we will leave very happy.”

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Ghraoui Chocolate Industry vice-president Mohamed Midani.

Alcalá Oliva’s Ángela Pérez Linde.

Supplier Kathy Casey training

Stateside blends meet Gulf trends

Celebrity mixologist Kathy Casey brings her extensive beverage knowledge to the region and shares her creative touch with industry professionals from across the Middle East Last month saw celebrity US mixologist Kathy Casey pay a visit to Dubai, where she hosted a workshop and roundtable in conjunction with flavourings provider Monin for key players from the UAE’s beverage industry. Held at Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates’ intimate 1897 Bar, the event gave attendees the opportunity to enjoy an in-depth discussion on the future of the industry, as well as allowing Casey to share her knowledge of global trends and her experiences of the regional market.

“They were all very engaged and I think we found some absolute superstars,” she commented. “When we went out in Abu Dhabi, however, the scene was definitely on the green side; it took a while for someone to engage our table and generally no one followed up on whether we would like another drink.” Commenting on the differences between bar staff in the US and the UAE, Casey suggested American bar staff possessed a degree of arrogance absent in the bar workers she came across in Abu Dhabi.

Trends during tough times According to Casey, who has appeared on various television and radio shows in the US, the global beverage industry has continued to perform well during the economic crisis. “I think people are drinking a little less when they go to bars, but they are still going out — and happy hour promotions have become huge business for many,” she observed. Casey said that throughout the downturn everyone had been “all doom and gloom in the States”, citing the willingness of outlets to cut costs in the face of lower customer spending as a major problem. “In America right now people are not putting very much emphasis on training and are cutting training programmes, which I think could be a mistake,” she said. Casey asserted that halting beverage innovation was another unwise cost-cutting tactic being employed. “When we come out of the recession everyone’s going to want to go out, spend a little money and party,” she said. “They are going to want to go to those places that are doing new and innovative things, so I think it’s important to always be thinking forward, regardless of what business you are in.”

About Kathy Casey Kathy Casey is a celebrity chef, mixologist and media personality based in the north-west US city of Seattle. She founded Kathy Casey Food Studios

Staff comparison

and Liquid Kitchen, a food and beverage consultancy ﬁrm with an R&D

While in the UAE, Casey spent time working with the bar team at recently-opened Fairmont Bab Al Bahr, Abu Dhabi, aiding the development and service standards of the hotel’s beverage staff.

department, and was recently involved in training the service team at

Caterer Middle East December 2009

Fairmont Bab Al Bahr, Abu Dhabi’s F&B outlets.

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Supplier Kathy Casey training

“In the US there are definitely bartenders who know what they’re doing, but a lot of them have an attitude; whereas everyone here was so gracious, hospitable and charming,” she remarked. Casey added that she felt the lack of bar experience she came across at the Fairmont was more an opportunity than a hindrance. “I was very encouraged that the staff were so interested and I really feel that it was OK that some of them were not trained, because now they have learnt properly,” she said.

A tweet future During the course of the roundtable discussion, a major trend Casey flagged up was the growth of social media. “Twitter is one of the biggest tools you are going to be able to use as an outlets,” she advised. “When you have a special event you can host a tweet-up event; you can make a social page for your bar, for yourself, or you can set up online groups. “I’m from the west coast of the US, which is always ahead in terms of technology or anything computer-driven,” Casey continued. “If you start to implement this you will be well ahead of everyone else. I even had a social media intern — that’s how big it is.” Russelito Sanchez, vice president of the Mastah Flairtending Club — Dubai Chapter, noted that the growth of online social media had been of major benefit to the growing organisation. “We’re in the process of developing our social media programme, because from one online post every member will get the required information simultaneous,” he commented. “But some of the guys are very busy at the moment, so finding time is the biggest problem.” Dominik Schachtsiek, head bar chef and beverage manager at the Grand Hyatt Dubai, also presented Casey with a common problem found at many hotel properties. “For us, the issue is that social media crosses the line into sales and marketing,” he pointed out. “I think it is a big challenge for both the beverage and the marketing sides to get along in regards to this.”

Casey responded by pointing out that marketing departments often wrongly believe social media to be part of their remit. “When companies do social media they often hire an agency to do it,” she said. “It then becomes fake and they will have about five followers — it must be done by bar people as that’s what it’s all about.”

Juicy business The burgeoning beverage market in the UAE today is markedly different from the US market, according to Casey. “The juicy freshness thing here is really great — you don’t see really fresh juices like you do in this region in the US,” she observed. “As a result it was even more fun creating cocktails at the Fairmont, because we had so many wonderful and different products to work with. “In future, I hope to expand to my business in the Midde East,” she added. “We want to work here to develop drinks and train staff with real passion for the industry.”

What the participants said: Monin MEI sales and marketing director Jeremy Coulbeck “For me she is bringing over the trends. American tends to drive trends forward in terms of recipes and ﬂavours. “This region can lag behind America; especially if you look at the market for smoothies and shakes, which has not been as quick to catch on here as it has in the US.”

MMI bar development and training manager Rebecca Sturt “I think anyone who can come over will help move us forward. “Events like this always give the industry a boost and outside inﬂuences are always good. “They come in and are often surprised to see how Dubai works.”

Fresh Express beverage sales manager Ghaith Zeidan “Having professional visitors from different markets helps brings in different trends. “There were Mexican inﬂuences in the drinks she made for us and she brings with her excellent knowledge for the region’s bar industry. “It is always good to get people from other markets coming over to share their ideas.”

Kathy Casey “It was really fun and great to hear what other people have to say. I think it’s great to have something like this where people can share and I’d love to see more of this type of thing in the US.”

Beverage professionals discuss the industry at Kempinski’s 1897 Bar.

www.hoteliermiddleeast.com/f&b

December 2009 Caterer Middle East

F&B essentials Lighting

Outlets scared of innovative lighting Supplier concerned at restaurants’ “archaic” choices and reluctance to experiment F&B outlets across the region are scared to try new things when it comes to lighting, a hospitality industry supplier has claimed. Hicham Lalmi, managing director of lighting supplier Airstar Middle East, said the major problem facing the F&B lighting market was its approach to illuminating outdoor functions. “Today only spotlights and floodlights are being used to illuminate a dining or cocktail area,” asserted Lalmi. “The lights used are simple poles with lamps mounted on them and come with many disadvantages such as glare, aggressive light and shadows. They are limited, archaic and anaesthetic.” Lalmi cited as a counter-example the firm’s lighting balloons, used in resorts and five-star hotels around the world.

“It has been more difficult to introduce them in the Middle East than any other place in the world,” he remarked. “I don’t know why, but perhaps it’s because it is a new product. “We do have some clients in the region who understood straight away the advantages of our products, and they are using them on a daily basis,” he continued. “But strangely, there does seem to be a fear of innovation in this region.” Lalmi also observed that the international lighting industry was undergoing something of a revolution, thanks to new scientific discoveries regarding light which were impacting the role of lighting in the design process. “Research on the effects of light is becoming an increasingly important

Lighting options are not fully explored in the region. consideration in the practice of lighting,” he explained. “Recent studies indicate the non-visual effects of light are mediated by a newlydiscovered photoreceptor in the eye, which is distinct from the usual tools used for vision. “People are not yet aware of the effects of light on human behaviour,” he concluded.

ONE TO WATCH: BELIGHT Operating under the umbrella of Al Aqili Furnishings, Belight offers high-quality commercial lighting solutions for several industries including hospitality. The ﬁrm supplies classical and modern decorative items, and offers a range of wellrecognised Italian brands and designs from Italian lighting masters. The company supplied the total-concept LED lighting designed by Kareem Rashid at Dubai Mall outlet Switch, and has also been involved in the recently opened The Address Dubai Mall, which features a large onyx wall spanning two ﬂoors. Belight installed computer-controlled LED backlights for this colossal feature. Belight Dubai Tel: +971 4 337 1612 Fax: +971 4 337 5912 Email: info@belightme.com

Caterer Middle East December 2009

A vibrant lighting installation from Belight.

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F&B essentials Lighting

Nora Lighting These energy-efficient LED recessed down-lights are now available with small apertures and a high lumen output making them suitable for a range of hospitality projects. The fixtures integrate the warm white colour of incandescent lamps with long-lasting, high output LED technology. Nora Lighting Tel: +1 800 686 6672 Web: www.noralighting.com

LivingColors Mini This miniture addition to Philipsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; LivingColors range is designed to save space, while providing ambience and offering affordability. The product utilises advanced LED technology and a touch sensitive wheel enables the user to select from 256 different colours. Philips Middle East and Africa Tel: +971 4 309 5155 Web: www.philips.com

Tae Inspired by the soon to be phased out bulb, this lamp from lighting studio Kaia, features a design consisting of a height-adjustable suspension, which places the bulb in the centre of the installation. The Tae suspension lamp is made from polished brass and glossy nickel. Kaia Tel: +49 1319 60 10 Web: www.kaia.at

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Supplier Product showcase

New products Caterer Middle East showcases the best and brightest F&B products to hit the market

ACE Rack Conveyor Dishwasher The ACE line from Comenda is designed to optimise energy consumption and features the Eco2Rinse recycling system, which cuts water consumption by more than 35%. The dishwasher’s drying module incorporates a system for dehumidifying air before being heated. Comenda Tel: +39 02 95228 1 Web: www.comenda.eu

Huile d’Avocat

Ergo Bear 140 Vl-4

La Tourangelle Avocado Oil is handcrafted from fresh premium avocados. The avocado pulp is expeller-pressed in a similar manner to extra virgin olive oil and the result is an emerald green oil with a light avocado flavour.

This mixer from Bear Varimixer is designed for large-scale industrial use. It offers increased capacity compared to the existing 140l model and comes with added benefits, including a tilted front panel with Piezo buttons to ensure a better overview and faster operation.

Tulsidas Lalchand General Trading Tel: +971 4 353 3736 Email: trade@tulsidas.com Web: www.tulsidas.com

A/S Wodschow and Co Tel: +45 43 44 22 88 Email: info@wodschow.dk Web: www.bearvarimixer.dk

TeaCheer

WegaConcept

This unique sparkling Japanese green tea product is made from high quality green tea, and can be served as a non-alcoholic aperitif before, during or after meals. TeaCheer is available in plain or jasmine flavour.

WegaConcept is the latest machine from the manufacturer’s ‘Green Line’ and offers bar staff and coffee roasters energy savings of up to 47.6% compared to traditional machines. It comes with digital temperature adjustment and control, an auto recognition system and raised units.

Al Diyafa Foodstuff Tel: +971 4 39 69 553 Email: sales@diyafafoodstuff.com Web: www.diyafafoodstuff.com

CMA Spa Tel: +39 329 419 9118 Email: communication @cmaspa.com

Caterer Middle East December 2009

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Distributors & supplies directory Distributors MMI Tel: 00971 4 209 5000 www.mmidubai.com (Beverages)

Baqer Mohebi Tel: 00971 4 396 9777 Email: bme@mohebi.com (Marketing & distribution of food & non food FMCG, food ingredients & Cuban Cigars)

Greenhouse Supermarket

Tel: 00971 4 3403330 Email: mail@horecatrade.ae www.horecatrade.com

Tel: 00971 4 343 1100 Email: tssc@eim.ae www.tsscdubai.com (Catering/kitchen equipment, chocolate/ coffee equipment, FMCG, refrigeration)

Tel: 00971 4 343 3478 Email: sales@lamarquise.ae www.lamarquise.ae

MH Enterprises

Fresh Express LLC

Tel: 009714 3470 444 Fax: 009714 3470 972 Email: surinder@mhent.ae www.mhent.ae

Tel: 00971 4 3395354 Email: alis@freshexpressint.com www.freshexpressint.com

COOKING

Swiss Chocolate

Baking Technologies

Tel: 00971 7 244 4984 Email: chocolat@chocolat.ae www.chocolat.ae

Tel: 00971 4 885 7557 Email: ton@baking-technologies.com www.baking-technologies.com

Tulsidas Lalchand

Churchill China

Tel: 00971 4 3533736 Email: trade@tulsidas.com www.tulsidas.com

Tel: 004417 8 252 4371 Email: glenn.ewart@churchillchina.plc.uk www.churchillchina.com

The Original Candy Company Ltd

G.E.T Enterprises

Tel: 00971 4 2861166 Fax: 00971 4 2863080 Email: info@emf-emirates.ae

La Marquise

Tel: 00971 6 5332218 Email: greenhse@eim.ae (Importers / Distributors of Food Items)

Suppliers BEVERAGES Boncafe Tel: 00971 4 2828742 Email: sales.dept@boncafeme.ae www.boncafeme.ae

Convotherm Tel: 0049 884 7670 Email: info@convotherm.de www.convotherm.de

MKN Tel: 0049 5 3 318 9207 Email: km@mkn.de www.mkn.de

Mohamed Hareb Al Otaiba Coffee Planet Tel: 00971 4 341 5537 Email: coffee@mycoffeeplanet.com www.mycoffeeplanet.com

Franke Tel: 0041 6 2 787 3607 www.franke-cs.com

Lavazza

Tel: 00971 4 3414900 Email: wissam@mhao.ae www.alotaibagroup.com

Tel: 0044(0)1261 842 448 Fax: 0044(0)1261 842 884 Email: henry@gourmetschoice.demon.co.uk www.gourmetschoice.net

Tel: 0049421 3502 200 Email: info@ bakemarkint.com www.bakemarkinternational.com

Ghraoui Chocolate

Nestlé Professional Tel: 00971 4 408 8100 Email: npdxb@ae.nestle.com

Raw Coffee Company

Tel: 00971 4 2675406 Email: bakemart@emirates.net.ae www.bake-mart.com Tel: 00971 4 339 8264 Email: ghraoui.dfc@mailmac.net www.ghraouichocolate.com

Giles & Posner Tel: 0044(0)1923 234040 Fax: 0044(0)1923 245151 Email: sales@gilesandposner.com www.gilesandposner.com

Tel: 0041 (0) 318 585111 Email: info@schaerer.com www.schaerer.com

Royal Culimer Fze Tel: 00971 4 8817847 Fax: 00971 4 8817848 Email: jtollenaar@culimer.com www.culimer.com

Six Brothers Foodstuff Co Ltd Tel: 00971 6 5339644 Fax: 00971 6 5335495 Email: sixbros@eim.ae

Tel: 001 713 467 9394 Email: getinc@get-melamine.com www.get-melamine.com

JSD Products Tel: 0044(0)1727 841111 Email: info@jsdproducts.co.uk www.jsdproducts.co.uk

Villeroy and Boch Tel: 00352 46821208 Email: info.hr@villeroy-boch.com www.villeroy-boch.com

CATERING EQUIPMENT Hamilton Beach Commercial Tel: 001 973 263 3132 www.commercial.hamiltonbeach.com

Vitamix

HYGIENE

Tel: 001 440 782 2450 Email: international@vitamix.com www.vitamix.com

Johnson Diversey Gulf Fze

Polo Point

Tel: 00971 4 881 9470 www.johnsondiversey.com

Tel: 00971 56 606 6851 Email: maria.varnein@polopoint.ae

Newell Rubbermaid Lambweston Tel: 00971 50 6447837 Email: frankboering@lambweston-nl.com www.lambwestonmeijer.nl

Tel: 00971505536808 Email: kim@rawcoffee.ae www.rawcoffeecompany.com

Schaerer

SEAFOOD

Bakemark International

Merchant Star International

Tel: 00971 50 940 0918 Email: tgergov@monin-mei.com www.monin.com

Tel: 0044 (0)1285 711227 Email: btoriginalcandy@aol.com www.originalcandyco.com

Gourmet’s Choice

Bakemart Llc

Monin

Horeca Trade Llc

FOODSTUFF

Tel: 00971 50 5959385 Fax: 00971 4 3211274 Email: ruth@lavazza.ae www.lavazza.ae

Tel: 00971 4 266 7447 Email: ali@meinl.ae www.meinl.ae

TSSC

Emf Emirates

Nestlé Professional Tel: 00971 4 408 8100 Email: npdxb@ae.nestle.com

Tel: 00971 4 292 3444 Email: yasmin.dabbah@newellco.com www.newellrubbermaid.com

KNIVES

RESTAURANT/ HOTEL SUPPLIES

Dick

Airstar Space Lighting Tel: 00971 4 8854906 Email: hichamlalmi@airstarme.ae www.airstar-light.com

Tel: 0049 7 153 8170 Email: mail@dick.de www.dick.de

Victorinox AG Tel: 0041 41 818 12 64 Email: alain.hospenthal@victorinox.ch www.victorinox.com

Appointments December 2009

The new executive chef at the recently-opened Radisson Blu Hotel, Cairo Heliopolis, Jean Louis Calcat, chats to Caterer Middle East about his new role in the Egyptian capital, his plans for the future, the current status of Cairo’s culinary offerings and the strangest gift he ever received from a customer What inspired you to join the team at the property in Egypt? I first worked in Egypt from 1979 to 1982 for Le Méridien in Cairo. I simply had to take the opportunity to return and be on the opening team of a new flagship Radisson Blu hotel. What do you hope to bring to your new role as executive chef? I hope to transmit the ‘Yes I can’ spirit of Radisson Blu to my new team members and pass this team spirit on to all my colleagues and chefs. How highly do you rate Egypt’s culinary offering and what can be done to improve the sector?

Egypt’s culinary level is very high. It riven by the is creative, inspired and driven talented Egyptian Chefs Association. sion and Constant training, supervision developing creativity and motivaontinue tion in young chefs must continue andards in order to bring up the standards ndustry. and improve the tourism industry. Is it possible for Cairo iro to ub become the culinary hub of the Arab world? arietYes, because of the large varieties of cuisines available in the country. The professional ability and creativity of Egyptian chefs in developing culinary art is the key to this success.

Recent appointments... Joining Sheraton Abu Dhabi Hotel and Resort as executive sous chef is Christophe Gavois. Gavois brings with him kitchen experience from Four Seasons hotels in Hampshire, UK; Cairo, Egypt; and Dublin, Ireland. He will assist executive chef Fabien Martinez in the day-to-day running of culinary operations at the property. As well as his passion for cooking, Gavois enjoys playing golf in his spare time as well as spending time with his family.

The Westin Dubai and Le Méridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort and Marina has appointed Tolga Lacin as complex executive assistant manager of food and beverage. Lacin brings to the role more than 17 years of experience, having started his career in Istanbul with Hilton then joined the opening team at the Hyatt Regency, Istanbul, before moving on to roles in Kazakhstan, Qatar and the Far East. Prior to joining the Dubai properties, Lacin was at The Westin, Shanghai.

Caterer Middle East December 2009

How highly do you rate the quality and knowledge of chefs in Egypt? The standard of the chefs here is equal to the quality you expected to find in any place where chefs love their jobs. They are willing to learn, implement, develop, modify or create as per their own feelings. They are also very interested in transmitting their own knowledge of culinary art. What has been the most bizarre request you have hav ever received custom from a customer? The most bizarre request I have had was in Cairo — a wedding cake that lay consisted of 17 layers, was 3.5 meters 4. meters high. wide and 4.5 The m most bizarre gift I r have received from a custome however, was in tomer, the Comoros Island off the east coast of Africa — I was given a live goa to thank me for goat the quality of the food at a wedding party!

Patrick Stephen Duff has been appointed executive chef at Fairmont Dubai. Duff takes on the responsibility of the property’s 10 dining and entertainment venues and brings with him more than 15 years experience from four continents. Duff began his career in 1989 as an executive sous chef at the Walt Disney World Dolphin Resort in his native United States. He followed this with the role of executive chef at the Port de Luxury Resort and Casino, St Maarten, Netherlands Antilles and posts at properties in Thailand, South Korea and Jamaica.

Winfried Helmetag has joined Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates, Dubai, as executive chef, joining the property after five years overseeing the F&B operation at Kempinski Hotel Ajman. Prior to joining the Ajman property, Helmetag worked as executive chef at The Royal Hashemite Court, Jordan, where he was responsible for the F&B output at the private and public palaces of King Abdullah II and Queen Rania of Jordan. Helmetag is also an executive committee member of the Emirates Culinary Guild.

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Dates for the diary Calendar

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01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 December 1-3 Diyafa 2009 Doha, Qatar Hotel, restaurant and food exhibition for Qatar www.ifpqatar.com December 1-4 FoodSib Novosibirsk, Russia Exhibition featuring food products, beverages, food processing equipment and technologies www.food-exhibitions.com December 2-4 International Food and Drink Expo India New Delhi, India Platform for international and

local food and drink producers and innovations www.indiafooddrinkexpo.com December 2-5 Gida Istanbul 2009 Istanbul, Turkey Food products and processing technologies showcase www.itf-gida.com December 6-8 Dubai Drink Technology Expo Dubai, UAE Non-alcoholic beverage products and drink technology services www.drinkexpo.ae December 7-9 Middle East Natural and

Organic Products Expo 2009 Dubai, UAE Regional showcase for organic and natural products www.naturalproductme.com December 10-12 Bio Egypt Cairo, Egypt Exhibition for natural and organic products featuring workshops and seminars www.organicegypt.com December 10-13 Sifel Morocco Agadir, Morocco Moroccan trade show for fruit and vegetables www.sifelmorocco.com

COMING IN 2010â&#x20AC;Ś January 8-10 The Food Fair Singapore Thematic food and beverage show www.amac.sg January 12-14 Food and Hospitality Expo Manama, Bahrain International food, beverages and packaging technology exhibition www.foodexpbh.com January 20-23 AnfaĂź Hotel Equipment Antalya, Turkey Hospitality and events equipment www.anfashotelequipment.com

Last bite Interview

Visiting Dubai to mark the eighth anniversary of Verre by Gordon Ramsay at the Hilton Dubai Creek with a stint in the kitchen, Michelin-starred chef Angela Hartnett chats with Lucy Taylor about the restaurant’s impending refurbishment, the problems of finding fresh produce and whether she’d prefer Gordon or Marcus cooking for her

ell, us a bit about what you’ve been doing during your time in Dubai. Well we organised some master-classes and gala dinners, to celebrate Verre’s eighth anniversary. Unfortunately the fire at the hotel put a stop to the master-classes [the fire occurred elsewhere in the property and was promptly extinguished, but not before it set off the sprinkler system, which warped the wooden floor in Verre, forcing the management to close the outlet]. But we still held the planned ‘Murano meets Verre’ dinners, just in Glasshouse, and it has been really good to remind everyone Verre’s here, do a bit of PR for Matt [Pickop, the property’s executive chef] and also to remind people that Gordon [Ramsay] was one of the first major chefs to come out here. What have you particularly enjoyed about being back? I always like working with the team; there are a lot of people I know still here and it’s been great to catch up with some of my guys who worked with me in London. What was the hardest thing about launching the restaurant in the orst place? I think it was — and probably still is — trying to get the produce, because you’re in the middle of the desert at the end of the day, nothing’s grown locally, so you’re importing everything and that means firstly there’s a cost element involved and secondly, probably more importantly for a chef, that there’s the issue of quality. You’re always struggling with getting really great ripe fruit and fantastic vegetables, because everything’s either under- or overripe. You can’t get a pineapple to taste really fresh and juicy if it’s been picked too early and goes on one of these ripening vans; that’s not a natural process. When you’re used to working with such great produce it’s heart-breaking in a way, because you know it could taste so much better. That’s something I would always miss about

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December 2009 Caterer Middle East

Last bite Interview

Europe [if I was working here]: seasons. I think Dubai’s great, but it’s not somewhere I particularly want to come back and work again; it’s not my kind of scene. I think you get used to working with seasonality. What is amazing though is how the guys working here do adapt to it, and you see them really trying to focus and follow the seasons. How do you feel about Verre’s status today? I think it’s great — it’s carried on well, it’s still got the standards, it’s doing well. It still misses that edge, I suppose, by being just this side of Jumeirah. It always amazes me when people say it’s too far to come, but that’s just me! In a way, I think the fire happening and the restaurant temporarily closing could be a good thing, because they’ll have a little refurb and it’ll be nice to do that and change it a bit; and I think they might go with a chef ’s table, which would be fantastic in my opinion. It’s good to re-invent sometimes; Gordon just did that with Royal Hospital Road after 10 years; it’s always good to put a bit of money in and relaunch a place, to get everyone thinking about it again. You’ve got Murano and the York & Albany up-andrunning in the UK — how’s that all going? Really well! We opened just before Lehman’s collapsed, so we got in just at the right time. I think when you finish at a restaurant you’ve been with for seven years, you sort of expect to open your next one at exactly the same state of play and it is hard to step seven years back and think ‘well, this is how it was last time at this stage’. But what is great about Murano and York & Albany is that they both feel as if they’ve been there a while; they’ve really got into their moulds and got it all balanced. Hartnett: impressed with how Dubai chefs adapt to the lack of seasonality.

What advice would you offer someone wanting to make it as a chef? I’d tell them to really make up their mind about what route they want to go. If Michelin’s your ball park, then do your training veering towards that. If you just want to do good local food in a bistro atmosphere then go and work for people who do the best at that. When I look at CVs and see people who started at Heston, then went to work at the Rivington, they’re poles apart as restaurants — you can’t even put them in the same bracket. So what are you flitting towards? Make your mind up! Working a couple of years in a good hotel kitchen is also great, because you get trained in every area.

So what’s next for you? A book the year after next, which we’re currently working on; we’ve got a couple of TV programmes we might be involved with; there are a few ideas floating around. Restaurant-wise, I’m just happy running the ones I’m running for the moment.

On to the tough questions: Ramsay or Wareing — who would you prefer to have cooking for you? I’m not answering that one! Well, maybe different occasions — Gordon to do my wedding, Marcus to do my funeral! No, really they’re both brilliant cooks, and even thought they’ve had their differences I know they’d both say that about the other.

No plans to open anything in this region then? Not right now. I wouldn’t say no, but I’d do it like Verre — consultancy. I wouldn’t come out here and open a restaurant, but rather put two or three really good people in and run it like that. But definitely, I’d have no issues doing something like that — a nice week’s holiday in the sun four times a year could be good!

Caterer Middle East December 2009

Gordon’s sort of a lighter touch, in some respects; his food’s a bit lighter, Marcus’ is slightly heavier. But I’ve learnt loads from both of them, so that’s a really hard question. You’ll get me into trouble with that one!

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Be inspired...

G.E.T. Melamine & Plastic

Quality is our First Name; Excellent Service is our Priority!

www.get-melamine.com G.E.T. ENTERPRISES. INC.

1515 W. SAM HOUSTON PKWY. N.

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