Get Lost 31 by Ivan Valachovic

WIN THE ULTIMATE MALAYSIAN HOLIDAY ADVENTURE SEE PAGE 97 FOR DETAILS

ISSUE #31 // $7.95 GST INCLUDED www.getlostmag.com

Go gothic in Germany A big night out in Rio French Polynesia’s best kept secret

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EPIC JOURNEYS

including: INDIA On the rails FALKLAND ISLANDS Plane hopping SOUTH AFRICA Unknown roads 1449-3543 EGYPT Sail lost kingdoms

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GERMANY

EPIC JOURNEYS FOR 2012

SOUTH AFRICA Take the unknown roads to South Africa’s little-visited wild west – a road trip to get away from it all.

EPIC JOURNEYS FOR 2012

INDIA

Buckle up for a plane-hopping holiday on the far-flung islands famed for all the wrong reasons.

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Thought Ireland was all about having a laugh at the pub? Think again. There’s plenty on offer for the outdoors adventure seeker.

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FALKLAND ISLANDS

Venture to the stunning Gambier Islands – one of the most remote archipelagos on the planet.

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IRELAND

Take a trip to Tokyo: a city of personality and personalities.

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FRENCH POLYNESIA

JAPAN

Get on your PVC pants, knee-high boots and Marilyn Manson make-up for the world’s biggest gothic and dark culture event.

EPIC JOURNEYS FOR 2012

PLANES|TRAINS|AUTOMOBILES|BOATS

FEATURES

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All aboard for a wild train ride through the best of India.

EGYPT

GABON

While masses of tourists have been plying the Nile in all manner of boats for decades, we uncover a sailing journey with a difference.

Witness a fascinating African jungle ceremony – this fantastic photostory takes us behind the scenes.

get in the know South Africa is sitting on nearly 40% of the world’s platinum reserves.

contents

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ag, 14 Keen bmera, 15 97 ca Ricoh adventure, 7 a i 0 s Malay ron lens, 1 Tam

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REGULARS

36 AFTER DARK

94 GET LOCAL

100 HOLIDAY IDEAS

108 TRAVEL JOB

Get to know Rio when the sun goes down.

Venture into ancient Arnhem Land.

Vietnam and Burma for under A$3,000.

Meet Bev Killick from Hit the road with The the risqué show Busking Project. Busting Out!

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Your Letters & Photos Send in and win News & Views The globe uncovered Places to Stay The weird and wonderful Top Trips The best we can find

Events Dates for your diary 26 Retro Travel Travel from yesteryear 28 You Wish Get green with envy 102 Food The hungry traveller

get in the know Behind Russia, Canada is the world’s second-largest country by total area.

112 MUSIC

120 CONFESSIONS Tony D’Souza in Mexico.

104 Photography Expert photo tips 110 Our Shout The world’s best bars 114 Responsible Travel Do the right thing 116 Reviews Gadgets and other goodies ISSUE #31 get lost #11

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places to stay

Pimalai Resort Ko Lanta, Thailand

What: Hidden in acres of leafy garden, fringed by white sand beach, it’s hard to think about anything else but getting back to nature at this exclusive resort. Imagine luxury, elegance, ﬁve-star service and a tropical hideaway that’s so secluded even the staff live on site. It’s no surprise its won numerous awards for its restaurant, spa and eco friendliness. Why: A rare Thai treasure that’s located well away from the boisterous bucketdrinking hordes on Phuket and Ko Phi Phi. hoW: Deluxe rooms from A$320 per night; villas from A$700 per night. www.pimalai.com #20 get lost ISSUE #31

get in the know The Thai greeting “sawatdee” was invented during the Second World War. Before that, people greeted each other by asking if they had eaten yet.

places to stay

Miniloc Island Resort

Singita Pamushana Lodge

Gramercy Park hotel

What: Fancy yourself a bit of a Survivor, yet can’t pry yourself away from holiday comforts? This is an El Nido Resort: a luxurious eco island that’s been recognised as a ‘conservation-minded place on a mission to protect the local environment’. It has over 50 beaches and caves that lead to private lagoons, so you can swim, snorkel and then splurge on a private island dinner, which comes with your own chef and waiter.

What: A bed in the bush? Yep, you heard right. It’s pretty out there, especially as you’ll be sleeping in a game park with god knows what. As part of your stay at the beautiful Pamushana Lodge you can sleep out under the stars, with animals that might eat you if it weren’t for the rangers who stand watch through the night. Think of it as an extreme spectator sport – where you’re on show and the wildlife is watching you.

What: Located on Lexington Avenue – the heart of Manhattan – this is the Big Apple at its best. Think lush scarlet drapes, black leather furniture, mahogany drinking cabinets, velvet upholstered beds and walls showcasing the work of world-famous photojournalists. Add to that a light installation in the bar that’s reminiscent of Blade Runner, and a stunning rooftop terrace. Hot tip: go for the penthouse, it comes with its own kitchen, dining room and library.

Why: An escape that’s far from civilisation, yet has all the little soaps and shampoos.

Why: As far as camping goes, you can’t get amongst nature more than this.

Why: Perfect for an extravagant rendezvous in the world’s hottest city.

hoW: From A$230 per person per night. www.elnidoresorts.com

hoW: From A$895 per person per night. www.singita.com

hoW: Rooms from A$395 per night. www.mrandmrssmith.com

Miniloc Island, Philippines

Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve, Zimbabwe

New York, USA

get in the know The nickname ‘the Big Apple’ was popularised in the 1920s by journalist John J. Fitz Gerald. He used the term to refer to NY’s horse racing.

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Dressed to impress at Leipzig’s Opera House. image: kate hennessy

text: kate hennessy images: various

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Kate Hennessy dons her blacks and joins 20,000 goths in Germany at the world’s most un-colourful festival. get in the know Wave-Gotik-Treffen happens over the Whitsun, or Pentecost, weekend – a major feast in the Christian calendar.

germany

e stalks by tHe tram stop in head-to-toe black pVC, thighs squeaking like rodents. sunlight glints from studs around his neck that are long enough to skewer a steak, and his face scowls out from behind a fragile scaffolding of chains and piercings. yes, I think. We’ve arrived. Each year in May or June, the German city of Leipzig hosts the biggest gothic and dark culture event in the world – the fourday Wave-Gotik-Treffen (WGT) . More than 20,000 of the gothic diaspora heed the call to come and swamp Leipzig in black. But planning to attend a gothic festival is tricky when you’ve been travelling for six months. Our clothes are tattered and we left the leathers, fish-nets and capes back home. An unofficial WGT website, www.sadgoth.com, comforts festival neophytes like us, saying: “You will encounter a sea of black-dressed people the moment you arrive, making you feel at home and safe.” SadGoth.com was right. When we emerge from Leipzig train station a day

before WGT, there are goths everywhere. There are pale people dragging coffins, men in top hats and gas masks, couples strolling by in full Romantic-era regalia and cyberpunk goths in welding goggles with hip-length hair extensions made from electrical wiring. There are rockabilly goths, transgender goths, steampunk goths, rivethead goths and vampire goths.

“

even without a festival pass. WGT is held in around 40 venues right across the city meaning there are Goths promenading simply everywhere. Contrary to their reputation for sinister habits and depressive tendencies, there’s a celebratory, theatrical air in Leipzig. Oh, and the fashion! As the premiere event on the global Goth

there are pale people dragging coffins, men in top hats and gas masks, couples strolling by in full romantic-era regalia and cyberpunk goths Hundreds of them, all dimming the city streets like a colony of bats flying across the sun. And I’m caught out wearing my travel trackies and sandals. The first thing to do? Hightail it to the hotel and get all ‘gothed up’. Uninformed tourists arriving in Leipzig during WGT will find accommodation scarce, but if they get lucky they’re in for a fabulous people-watching treat,

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calendar, festival-goers spare no effort. It’s like being at the Melbourne Cup in a parallel universe where everyone likes Nick Cave. But goths, remember, dress to shock, so it’s BYO open mind. Day one at WGT sees us don every black item in our suitcase and make a curious shopping list: black nail polish, black eyeliner, black hair dye and white face powder. Must. Fit. In. Our hotel is a

The dark ‘family’ gathers at the medieval village. image: heidnisches dorf

get in the know The first WGT in 1992 had 2,000 visitors; it now has 20,000.

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text: lara dunston images: terence carter

Lara Dunston lives a night at full tilt in the beautiful city of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

Passionate fans at a futebol clássico between teams Botafogo and Vasco de Gama at São Cristóvão stadium.

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get in the know Brasília is the capital city of Brazil. However, Rio de Janeiro was the capital from 1763 to 1960.

brazil

6.00pm

io de JaneiRo, BRazil’s sexy seaside city, is celebrated for its sandy beaches, samba and sensational futebol skills. Cariocas, as Rio’s residents are called, spend their days worshipping the sun in the surf or on the sand. yet they love their evenings equally as much. They easily while away an entire night, bouncing between neighbourhood botecos and samba bars. so i, too, decide to give it a go.

5.00pm The cariocas’ energy is legendary. Their nights end late, but their days begin early. The secret to surviving the long day and night? An energy-packed, vitamin-laden juice known as a suco. Sipping a suco on one of the beaches – Copacabana, Ipanema or Leblon – is a twice-daily ritual for many locals. Almost every block has a juice bar with glass counters decorated with colourful displays of fruit and menus listing countless varieties of freshly squeezed juices and blends. The most popular drink is a vitamina – a thick smoothie of juice, milk or yoghurt, honey, wheat grass and guarana (a Brazilian caffeine berry). I knock mine back at one of Ipanema’s most beloved juice spots, Polis Sucos, opposite the Nossa Senhora da Paz (Our Lady of Peace Church). I’m not Catholic, but I cross myself after I down the drink, praying that it gets me through the long night ahead. Polis sucos Rua Maria Quitéria, 70, ipanema

A tray of freshly mixed caiparinhas, Brazil’s national cocktail.

Caiparinhas are definitely more-ish. I stroll down to nearby Leblon to the Academia da Cachaça – a bar that has shelves weighed down by dozens of different types of cachaça bottles, most of which are unavailable outside Brazil. The Academia serves up more creative concoctions, such as pineapple, orange and passionfruit caiparinhas. Cachaça comes infused with everything from cashew to cinnamon. I try one of the juice-based cocktails, the cocada geladinha, made from coconut, coconut juice and cachaça, of course. I also order some scrumptious hot snacks, including bolinho de quejo (cheese balls) and queijo coalha asado (roasted curd cheese), both which are considered an excellent hangover prevention – or cure. academia da Cachaça Rua Conde Bernadotte, 26, leblon www.academiadacachaca.com.br

5.30pm It’s hard to decide whether Brazil’s national drink is coconut water, sipped from a straw in a freshly cracked coconut shell, or the caiparinha cocktail, which is a mixture of fresh lime, sugar and cachaça: the potent Brazilian sugarcane spirit. Both are sold for a couple of dollars from the tiny bars dotted along Ipanema’s beach. I order one, then pull up a plastic chair to watch the sky turn pink, peach and tangerine as the sun goes down and my night begins. The terrace at bar Academia da Cachaça.

7.00pm

Polis Sucos, Ipanema’s most beloved juice bar.

It’s no surprise that Brazilians are passionate about futebol (soccer). The most exciting game is a clássico or derby between rival clubs such as Flamengo and Fluminense. I head to a clássico between Botafogo and Vasco de Gama at São Cristóvão Stadium. There are 20,000 people in the stadium, though this isn’t much for Rio – the largest match, between Flamengo and Vasco at Maracana stadium, attracted close to 80,000 fans. The tension, nevertheless, is palpable. In the lower seats behind the goalkeepers, organised groups of hardcore fans motivate us as much as the players. They beat drums and chant songs, and the fans surrounding me soon join in. Throughout the game, they cheer, scream, applaud, hug each other, dance and leap into the air mid-song. The atmosphere is electric.

get in the know Rio was nicknamed ‘cidade maravilhosa’ (meaning ‘the marvellous city’) after a 1935 samba march that became the city’s anthem.

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text: kelly irving images: kelly irving/teban s.

Kelly Irving goes gaga for Tokyo, Japan. “

HAT IS YOUR BLOOD TYPE?” asks Lady Gaga. It’s an odd question, especially one coming from a pop star I’ve only just met. “Um, I don’t know,” I say. She looks like I’ve just said her outﬁt sucks. “What? But everybody know blood type in Japan – like me. I am ‘A’, like real Gaga I think: patient, intelligent and, how you say? Conservative.” Conservative? She strikes me a pose á la Marilyn Monroe, gives me a wink and lights up her boobs like she’s a Christmas tree. Spiderman runs after her. Followed by two vampires, a pumpkin, a panda, some little green men and another Gaga dressed in lace. I’m not sure what to expect upon my arrival for a few days in Tokyo, eight months after Japan’s devastating earthquake. But I’ve just discovered two things. 1) When someone asks what your blood group is, it’s #40 get lost ISSUE #31

like saying ‘what star sign are you?’ 2) I’ve unintentionally landed during Halloween, and everyone in Roppongi, the nightlife nerve centre, has gone a little Gaga. In fact, since the pop diva urged fans to come back to the city during her visit in June 2011, she has become somewhat of a national hero – and an apt one at that. Out there yet enigmatic, gregarious yet shy, the ‘Poker Face’ singer with the big personality sums up this town to a tee. After a heavy first night out on the sake, I spend the next couple of days finding out what makes Tokyo tick. It’s a sprawling city with quirks on every street corner. From Akihabara’s cutesy-poo maid cafes and AKB48 shops (a local J-pop group with 48 members) to Harajuku’s cosplay rockabillies and Shibuya’s statue of Hachiko: a dead dog that was so admired for his loyalty, they even made a movie about him. And while

all of this is great and good, and blows my boxed-in Western mind, I decide that tomorrow it’s time to do something that’ll give me a different perspective of the city’s character – like get out of it. About a 90-minute train ride north-west of Tokyo lies Okutama-machi: a vast wilderness of cool rivers, misty mountains, ancient shrines and blossoming pink ginkgo trees. Not that you’d ever think it was there. The fact that 35 million people cram into the greater Tokyo area alone makes it the world’s most populous metropolitan region. So how could there possibly be any room for anything else but chopsticks? “A guy got mauled by a bear out here,” says Brad, an American who’s been an outdoor guide in Okutama for over 10 years. “It was really bad. But it did put us on the map,” he says, pointing to a little bear motif on a sign post as we exit Kori station.

get in the know Pop group AKB48 is so popular, would-be members must take part in an annual competition if they want to join.

japan

Halloween on Tokyo’s streets. image: teban s.

get in the know The story of Hachiko the dog was a Japanese movie (‘87) The Tale of Hachiko, then a US movie (‘09) Hachiko: A Dog’s Story, starring Richard Gere.

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ireland

text: dave cauldwell images: dave cauldwell

Dave Cauldwell discovers that Ireland is not just about staying indoors and drinking Guinness in cosy pubs.

Moments before breaking two ribs, Barry trampolines into Kenmare Bay.

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steely AtlAntic wind gusts across Kenmare Bay as the speedboat whisks me towards a floating jetty in the middle of the waterway. i shiver in my wetsuit, my shudders coming not only from the cold but also from nerves. i’m about to waterski for the first time and i hope i don’t mow down anything in the process. More importantly, i’m about to confront a fear of water – a phobia that originates from a near-drowning incident when i was eight. As we sidle up to the jetty, I notice something is amiss. Where are the waterskis? And why is there an inflatable banana boat moored here? The boat driver answers these questions in a thick Irish drawl. It’s too windy to waterski apparently, so he’s arranged for me to ride on a banana boat instead. I’m a little disappointed. The idea of straddling elongated plastic fruit isn’t exactly stoking my adventurous fire; it’s conjuring images of tacky Mediterranean holiday resorts where half-tanked tourists holler obscenities and whoop like members of an Oprah audience. Still, in these parts the weather calls the shots so I clamber aboard and ready myself for an aquatic rodeo. I’ve come to County Kerry in southern Ireland for a four-day adventure fix. During this time I intend to shoot, splash and surf my way around. Kerry may be one of the wettest counties in Ireland, but through the rain this land of rainbows glistens with golden opportunities. The lake lashes my face as we whiz around the bay. And then, before I can comprehend what’s going on, the speedboat turns abruptly and I’m catapulted into the water. I’m surrounded by bubbles and for a moment it’s difficult to discern which way is up or down. Childhood memories of panic threaten

get in the know Established in 1932, Killarney was Ireland’s first national park, and still has the most extensive covering of native forest in Ireland.

Passing under an ancient bridge in Killarney.

get in the know The Gap of Dunloe was used as a location for the Irish film The Crying Game.

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french polynesia

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get in the know The Gambier Islands are mostly of volcanic origin.

text: luke wright images: luke wright

Luke Wright travels to the Gambier Islands in French Polynesia â&#x20AC;&#x201C; one of the most remote archipelagos on the planet.

get in the know The Gambiers served as a logistical staging base for French nuclear testing activity in Mururoa.

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text: kerry van der jagt images: kerry van der jagt

Kerry van der Jagt flies far away from it all to the Falkland Islands.

y my third day of travelling across the falkland islands in a light aircraft, i’d finally worked out the system. there is no system. not much of a schedule either. the daily ‘on demand’ service operates like an air taxi, with passenger names and pick-up times read out on the falkland islands radio each evening – but only after birth notices, job vacancies and rainfall records have been announced. Sea Lion Island, the most southerly and isolated island of the Falklands group, is a 40-minute flight from the small settlement of Darwin on East Falkland. With a “Righteo chaps, next stop Sea Lion,” our red Britten-Norman Islander is away: passing over the blanket of white crosses marking the Argentinean cemetery, stone corals built by the gauchos in the 1800s and a series of rock landforms called

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‘stone runs’, laid down during the last ice age and first described by a young Charles Darwin when he visited in 1833 and 1834. Only from the air can I make sense of the shape of these ‘rivers of stone’. Eventually land gives way to sea and we cross clusters of small islands floating in a wash of aquamarine, before banking left and coming in across the steep cliffs of Sea Lion Island. “There’s the monument to HMS Sheffield,” says our pilot Alan, pointing out a lonely white cross clinging to a pile of rocks. “It’s where the crew of the Sheffield died when it was sunk by the Argentines.” This treeless, windswept wilderness, an archipelago of 740 islands off the east coast of Patagonia, barely rated a mention until 2 April 1982, when Argentina’s military dictator made the rash decision to invade the British-administered Falklands

group. The war ended 74 days later, when Argentina surrendered and Britain regained control, but not before 255 British, 649 Argentineans and three civilian Falkland Islanders had been killed. It will be the 30year anniversary of the conflict in 2012. My heart is heavy as I think of the British lads and the Argentinean conscripts forced to fight over a bunch of rocks, but it lifts again when Alan points out some black blobs on the beach. “Elephant Corner,” he says as we pass over dozens of elephant seals lolligagging on the beach. I’ve arrived in the Falklands with a simple plan: to enjoy the wildlife, but at my own pace. Starting at Stanley, the capital, on East Falkland, I’ve island hopped around the archipelago by small plane. I’m avoiding the cruise passenger crush by visiting the outer islands and staying in farmhouses. Every year,

get in the know The braying call of the Magellanic penguin accounts for their alternative name – jackass penguin.

falkland islands

Gentoo penguins become ‘pebble pirates’ when sitting on nests (Sea Lion Island).

Grass landing on Carcass Island between the peaks of Mt Byng.

about 50,000 visitors stop at the capital Stanley, most of them on the way to Antarctica. In contrast, the remainder of the Falklands receive about 1,200 landbased leisure visitors a year. The waters are treacherous and the distances vast,

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Falkland Islands post bag to pass on to the lodge owners. Many of the islands are uninhabited or home to just one family, some of which are now swapping farming for tourism and slowly creaking open their doors to vagabond visitors.

alone on the beach later that afternoon i’m poked by gentoo penguins, covered in snot by sea lions and shat on by antarctic skuas, the pirates of the high seas

”

so an air service is the most reliable way to get around. A green roof marks Sea Lion Lodge, the only settlement on the island. We come in for a perfect landing only metres behind the house. “See you in a couple of days,” says Alan, handing me a bright red

Lodge manager Jenny Luxton is a passionate conservationist. Dressed in the typical Falklands uniform of checked woollen jacket and gumboots, she chats easily with guests. She points out birds and boulders, makes jokes, smiles, and gently encourages us to follow the strict

get in the know The Falklands is home to five species of penguin: gentoo, king, Magellanic, rockhopper and macaroni.

code of conduct: keep five metres away from the animals. That doesn’t work. Alone on the beach later that afternoon I’m poked by gentoo penguins, covered in snot by sea lions and shat on by Antarctic skuas, the pirates of the high seas. “Sea Lion Island is a nature reserve and free of introduced killers like rats and cats,” explains Jenny. “So the animals have little fear.” I wish I could say the same for myself when I’m almost flattened by a three-tonne elephant seal. That night over a communal dinner of roast Falkland goose and Chilean wine (never, ever Argentinean) I’m introduced to my fellow travellers: a loved-up Italian honeymoon couple, a young Aussie backpacker and a French botanist who is travelling around the world in the footsteps of French explorer Louis Antoine de Bougainville. Little do I know ISSUE #31 get lost #63

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get in the know The Sikh community kitchen is designed so that all comers sit together on the floor, as equals, regardless of sex, race or beliefs.

india

in india

Tom Perry jumps aboard the Holy Cow loop – an epic Indian train journey. text: tom perry images: tom perry

The Shimla to Kalka ‘toy train’ snakes its way through the foothills of the Himalayas.

get in the know In 2010, India and Pakistan agreed to limit the goose-stepping at Wagah, due to injuries to soldiers’ feet and knees.

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EST.

2004

Discover the best bars the world has to offer.

Typhoon

Rakinos

The Grasshopper

This upscale pub on the corner of Lockhart Road is a popular hangout for locals and expats. Decked out in a nautical theme, with wooden floors, red chairs and ceiling fans, you can enjoy a wide selection of beers, shooters, wines and classic cocktails. It can get packed, especially when there’s a big sporting event on, but just join the crowds spilling out onto the street. This casual vibe makes it a rocking place to be at any time of day. www.cafedecogroup.com

A cafe-cum-lounge bar, Rakinos gets rated highly by travellers on blogs and websites. During the day you can enjoy a brekky of bagels or a lunch with mates. At night, kick back to soulful funk or jazz. They make a real effort to ensure that quality food, cocktails and service is dished up in an environment that lacks any of the pretentious guff you get at other joints. If that’s not enough to tempt you, happy hour is available every day. A firm favourite for a cracking night out in Auckland. www.rakinos.com

Inspired by a pop-up bar at a laneway festival, The Grasshopper really belongs in Melbourne. Hidden down a dark alley off George Street, you’ll eventually stumble on a large open doorway with a few steps that lead down into a dimly lit bar that’s wallpapered with black-andwhite stills of people doing kung fu. Pull up a tractor seat or a painted box and order a cocktail served in a jam or olive jar. To give it an Asian-takeaway feel, all the drinks have numbers rather than names. www.thegrasshopper.com.au

G/F, 37 Lockhart Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong

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Level 1, 35 High Street, Auckland, New Zealand

1 Temperance Lane, Sydney, Australia

get in the know The last reported snowfall in the Sydney city area was in 1836.

our shout

The Rooftop & Sports Lounge One&Only Royal Mirage, Al Sufouh Rd, Dubai, UAE

The sky’s the limit atop Dubai’s exclusive One&Only Royal Mirage resort. Settle in for an evening under the stars on one of the comfy cushioned seats spread out around the central dome (the inside of which is a sports bar). A laid-back atmosphere, warm candlelight, DJs and oriental mezzehs will keep you going late into the night. It’s the ideal place to chill out after a frantic day of shopping and sightseeing. www.royalmirage.oneandonlyresorts.com

Bar A60

60 Thompson St, Manhattan, New York, USA Up for a challenge? It’s worth trying to get your foot in the door of this members-only rooftop bar. Situated on the 13th floor of the bohemian 60 Thompson Hotel, Bar A60 offers killer views over Manhattan, the Hudson River and the Empire State Building. Sure, gaining access is a hell of a lot easier if you’re George Clooney or Demi Moore, but party goers can also score entry just by getting a room for the night. It could be the best A$500 you spend in the Big Apple. www.thompsonhotels.com get in the know The New York Times has won 106 Pulitzer Prizes. That’s more than any other news organisation in the world.

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