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ANNAPURNA RISING Trekking nepal PHILIPPINES PULSE nighT moves in manila CHILE CASTAWAY Discover a wilD isle TOP
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T H E W O R L D’S BE S T BE A C H PA R T Y ISSN 1449-3543
AUSTRALIA | JAPAN | MEXICO | MOLDOVA | THE NETHERLANDS | UAE | USA
spSEeCciTaIOlN
Chill Seeker Thrills and chills on snow and ice
86 Be pulled by huskies over Greenland’s frozen landscape, get choppered to the top of a deserted peak in Alaska or raise your glass on one of Austria’s top pistes. Whatever your style, we’ve got cold-climate adventure covered.
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ChIlE Wild walks and encounters with treasure hunters on Robinson Crusoe Island.
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MolDovA
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NEPAl
This vineyard-dotted outpost of Europe is a surprise package.
Taking the trek – with added heart – to Annapurna Base Camp.
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AUSTRAlIA A hedonistic party heats up Tassie’s winter solstice. 6 get lost ISSUE 44
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USA The festival where you’ll believe Mad Max has come to life. get in the know The first ski club in the world was formed in 1861 at Kiandra in New South Wales.
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et books, 20 Lonely Plan itcase, 21 Paklite su trip, 46 South Africans, 117 Tamron le
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AnguillA MoonsplAsh FestivAl
tokyo like A locAl
16 oN ThE RADAR
All the goss from across the globe
20 GET SoCIAl Your pics and tips
22 PlACES To STAY The weird and wonderful
24 ToP TRIPS
Take your pick and pack
26 ToP 10
Man-made monstrosities
28 YoU WISh
114 FooD & DRINK
124 ToP BARS
Cheers to Tequila
This issue’s top tipples
Dune bashing in Abu Dhabi
Flash made easy
116 PhoToGRAPhY
126 REvIEWS
30 GET PACKING
119 MUSIC
128 CoNFESSIoNS
32 AFTER DARK
122 TRAvEl JoB
Five days in Amsterdam Manila’s night moves
harlem’s hip beats
All the gear you’ll need Top speed in Saudi Arabia
Creating photographic magic
get in the know Bankie Banx had to rebuild his Dune Preserve bar on Anguilla in 1996 and 1999 after it was destroyed by hurricanes.
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Winner
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dIdn't know what to expect from my first visit to the highlands of papua new Guinea. I went through the entire spectrum of emotions, from nervousness to wild anticipation and everything in between. I asked this tribesman from the huli wigmen of tari highlands for a photograph while exploring a farm in paiya Village on a crisp spring morning. he obliged, wanting nothing from me in return except a smile, before returning to his preparations for a mini sing-sing (tribal gathering). the local people were so kind and beautiful, and when it came time to leave I felt a twinge of sadness. this journey was the most authentic, colourful cultural experience I've had, and so close to australian shores. • Nikon D700 • Nikon 28–300mm f/3.5-5.6 • ISO 6400, f/5.6, 1/2500 sec Photography by nicole robinson. Congratulations to Nicole, who submitted this image in our Tamron competition. As this issue’s winner she’ll receive a Tamron 16–300mm f/3.5-6.5 Di II VC PZD Macro Lens. See page 117 for entry details. tamron.com.au
The sun goes down over Roxas Boulevard. Promenading along Manila Bay is a popular late-afternoon activity. 32 get lost ISSUE 44
get in the know Binondo, an enclave of Manila, was established in 1594 and is the world’s oldest Chinatown.
Image: Stefan Munder
From wicked sips to underground rock, the Filipino capital is primed for a big night out. No karaoke required, says Carrie Hutchinson.
get in the know The most popular form of public transport in Manila is the jeepney. They were originally made from US military jeeps after World War II.
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Anguilla’s famous Dune Preserve beach bar on a quiet night in front of the CuisinArt Golf Resort & Spa. 38 get lost ISSUE 44
get in the know In 2003, Omari Banks became the first Anguillan to play Test cricket for the West Indies.
anguilla
Full Moon, Big Splash On a still charming Caribbean island, Flash Parker finds himself in thrall to the rhythm of the night. Photography by Flash Parker
get in the know The signature drink at the Dune Preserve, a fermented ginger concoction, is called Duneshine.
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Puerto Ingles, where Bernard Keiser is searching for buried treasure, is also thought to have housed Scottish castaway Alexander Selkirk. 50 get lost ISSUE 44
get in the know Nearly two-thirds (63 per cent) of Robinson Crusoe Island’s plants are endemic.
chile
In the footsteps of the fabled Robinson Crusoe, Mark Johanson discovers a remote island with more secrets than just buried treasure. Photography by Mark Johanson
get in the know An estimated 10,000 fur seals inhabit the Juan Fernandez Archipelago, up from just 200 a century ago.
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Exploring Europe’s final frontier, Pat Kinsella finds himself in a time warp discovering a little-visited country through its grapevines. Photography by Pat Kinsella
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get in the know The Moldovan village of Tirnauca has a Strong Drinks Museum housed in the largest bottle-shaped building in the world, which is 28 metres long.
MOLDOVA
In Trebujeni, a local folk musician coaxes a mean riff from a fancy cushion, otherwise known as a zaqq. get in the know Moldova is placed twelfth among the world’s top wine exporters.
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Making the descent from Annapurna Base Camp. 66 get lost ISSUE 44
get in the know The glacier basin at Annapurna Base Camp is the birthplace of the Modi Khola River, which flows through the Annapurna Sanctuary.
NEPAL
On a charity trek to Annapurna Base Camp, Samantha Kodila braves lungsapping heights, lethargy and leeches on an epic Himalayan adventure. Photography by Steve Baker and Samantha Kodila
get in the know Nepal was ruled by a monarchy until 2008.
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ou can be the strongest man in the world, but if you aren’t mentally strong, you’ll never make it to the top,” says Karma. He should know. A descendent of the ancient Sherpa tribes of eastern Tibet, with more than 23 years’ trekking experience, Karma has conquered Everest more times than he can count, and knows my fatigued expression all too well. I’m struggling to keep my eyes open, and nod in agreement, my whole body aching as we sit around a crackling fire.
What should have been a leisurely first day of trekking turns into the longest footslog of my life after a landslide wipes out our planned route. Sapped of energy, I find myself confronted with a whirl of images: hills of technicolour green, decorated mules, bright rippling prayer flags, laughing children and men who put my feeble stamina to shame as they clamber up hills with sheets of plywood strapped to their foreheads. I, on the other hand, have to will myself to keep moving, gingerly putting one foot in front of the other in oppressive humidity as I climb an unending path of stone steps. I’m on the adventure of a lifetime: a 12-day trek climbing through the spiritual wilderness of the Himalayas to Annapurna Base Camp. At 4310 metres (13,550 feet), she is the smaller, less famous sister of Mount Everest. While Everest is synonymous with the summiting elite and famed for its record-breaking altitudes and desolate, dramatic vistas, the Annapurna ranges are a utopian wonderland of rice fields, bamboo forests, gushing rivers and quaint villages. With a group of 10 trekkers, five Sherpas and five porters, I’m embarking on the Maiti Trek, a fundraising expedition with BluSheep Tours. Trekkers raise AU$1000 to participate (on top of the hike fee), with proceeds going to either Maiti Nepal, an NGO fighting against the trafficking and slavery of women and children, or Women LEAd, a leadership development group for Nepalese women. Our journey begins with a 30-minute flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara in a tiny 30-seater aircraft. We file into jeeps and quickly discover it’s every driver for themselves as we hold on for dear life, careening through the city’s streets, dodging potholes, motorcyclists, cows and the occasional herd of goats. We soon leave civilisation behind and the urban landscape recedes into a tangle of leafy trees, mountains smeared with grass and rural vistas infused with the freshest air. 68 get lost ISSUE 44
Rickshaw drivers waiting for their next customer in Thamel, Kathmandu.
A woman carries her bounty. get in the know There are approximately 125 different ethnic groups in Nepal.
NEPAL
We soon leave civilisation behind and the urban landscape recedes into a tangle of leafy trees, mountains smeared with grass and rural vistas infused with the freshest air.
get in the know The cow, sacred in Hindu culture, is the national animal of Nepal and cannot be harmed.
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Feeling frosty on Russia’s Lake Baikal.
Chill See 86 get lost ISSUE 44
get in the know Glaciers store about 75 per cent of the world’s fresh water.
DESTINATION
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It’s always winter somewhere in the world, and there’s always another slope to conquer. Here, you’ll find the best resorts, lodges, adrenaline-fuelled adventures and daring icecapades from across the globe. And while the temperature might be low, the thrills are high.
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get in the know During the last ice age glaciers covered about 32 per cent of the total land area on Earth. Today glaciers cover 10 per cent.
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anothER WoRlD expeditions on snow and ice you’ll never forget.
iCE, iCE BaBy Jökulsárlón Glacier laGoon, iceland Did someone spill a giant bottle of Blue Loo in here? Iceland’s Crystal Caves will have you wondering just that as you descend into an otherworldly realm. Pull on the contents of your wardrobe (and then some) and follow glacier expert Throstur Thor Agustsson on a caving adventure unlike any other. On the outside the Vatnajökull glacier’s white crust is UV-bleached and scuffed. On the inside it is transformed into a striking, glassy-blue cathedral, thanks to the tremendous weight of ancient ice pushing air bubbles out. Come summer the caves melt and buckle, and in autumn Agustsson sets out in search of new hidden chambers to explore. Their impermanence makes Iceland’s caves all the more magical. Extreme Iceland runs three-hour Ice Queen tours twice daily from November to March for about AU$195. extremeiceland.is
iCE aGE lake Baikal, russia Ever wondered what it feels like to walk on water? Get set for an adventure of biblical proportions as you shimmy across the surface of the world’s deepest lake. Venturing to Lake Baikal in the depths of Siberia, you will walk, drive, slide and cartwheel across the ice. What was that cracking sound? Never fear, the one-metre-thick frozen crust will keep you dry while you peer into the icy-clear depths below. Go in spring when the bitter cold has passed and the lake becomes the world’s largest freeway (or skate rink, if you prefer). Motor across the ice in an SUV, killing the engine at Olkhon Island and tiny villages where you’ll stay in guesthouses, homestays and hunters’ cabins. When you’re ready to up the adventure, go sledding, skating, snowmobiling and tubing or strap a husky to a sleigh and tear through forests. Complete your frozen foray with an ice raft. Jump on a block sawn off by your crew and feast on cheese fondue, chocolate and mulled wine as you float towards the famous Shaman Rock that separates Lake Baikal from the Angara River. A seven-day Lake Baikal Ice Adventure tour with 56th Parallel costs about AU$2500. 56thparallel.com
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get in the know Lake Baikal contains 20 per cent of the world’s unfrozen freshwater reserves.
Chill Seeker
GlaCial hiGh Perito Moreno Glacier, arGentina How can you top standing in the shadow of a monstrous Patagonian glacier measuring 250 square kilometres and a whopping 15 storeys high? By hiking it, of course. From a boat on Argentino Lake, Perito Moreno Glacier looks impenetrable. Sharp tooth-like peaks jut out of a seemingly endless wall of ice, and colossal chunks crumble into the water. But as the boat draws nearer, the peaks become more rounded and hikers appear like ants moving around the blue lagoons and caves. It’s time to strap on your crampons and straddle crevasses as you tackle Argentina’s most famous glacier. Jump on a 10-hour tour (about AU$210) with Argentina4U to experience incredible ice formations, lagoons and streams, and pray this baby won’t rupture. argentina4u.com
MuSh it tunu, Greenland Climb aboard an Inuit sled and let the huskies do the work on a paw-powered expedition across East Greenland’s desolate hinterland. The Tunu region, meaning land at the back, lives up to its reputation as an area of extreme isolation. There are thousands of kilometres of pristine terrain to explore, against a backdrop of dramatic fjords and glacier-encrusted mountains. Put your woollies on, give your four-legged friends a tickle behind the ear and set off across the frozen sea. Explore glaciers, cut through powder-white plains and discover remote settlements. Spend your evenings curled up by the heater – yes, there’s one in your tent – and enjoy a front-row view of the northern lights. Eight-day trips with Pirhuk Greenland Expedition Specialists cost about AU$5805, departing 18 March and 25 March 2016. expeditiongreenland.com
Bolivian Boot-SCoot Mt chacaltaya, Bolivia Fancy a day hike that will have you climbing to altitudes higher than Everest Base Camp? Pack coca leaves and get ready to put your stamina to the test on Mt Chacaltaya. Only 90 minutes from Bolivia’s capital, La Paz, Chacaltaya, meaning cold road, once held the title of the world’s highest ski resort. Sadly, the glacier has all but melted, resulting in the closure of what was once Bolivia’s only ski centre. While the glacier may be gone, there are still plenty of reasons to hit the mountain. Catch a taxi to Chacaltaya, hike to the summit (more than 5300 metres above sea level) and drink in the surrounds. On a good day you can see Lake Titicaca. bolivia.travel get in the know Measuring 8300 square kilometres, Vatnajökull is Iceland’s largest glacier and the largest ice mass in Europe.
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