Travel
Gotta get
away
Jenny Hewett rounds up the best local city breaks
01_ Marble floors of the Umayyad Mosque. 02_ Courtyard ambience at the Hotel Talisman. 03_ Room with a view, the Hotel Talisman. 04_ Chill out Syrian-style, the Hotel Talisman.
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Travel
Damascus, syria Where:
It’s refreshing to know that in just over three hours by plane from the glittering modernity of Dubai you can be standing in one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world. Syria’s capital Damascus is home to the ancient walled Old City that dates back to 5000 BC and today still continues to function as the city’s epicentre for day-to-day life, work and commerce. Outside the old city, modern day Damascus reflects the commonalities that thread together most of the Middle East – neighbourhoods are lined with pastry shops, electronics, mosques, cafés and office concrete blocks. Yet, with its centuryold streets, intricately tiled homes and busy souks, Damascus offers a unique glimpse into ancient history.
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Sights:
The usual way into the walled city is through a gate via the Souk-al-Hamidyya, a bustling bazaar positioned in a high arcade over a street that dates back thousands of years. Here you will find vendors offering gold jewellery, kaftans and a range of smaller markets that specialise in spices and wedding cloth. As you make your way through the crowds the market will eventually lead you into the site of the Roman ruins of the Temple of Jupiter, it’s Corinthian columns shooting up into the sky like a toast rack. Further inside the ancient city is the huge Umayyad Mosque, once almost entirely decorated with mosaics and precious stones that centuries of invasion have since stripped near bare. The mosque itself was built in the eighth century on a site that earlier held a temple dedicated to the Roman god Jupiter and later a Christian church. Within the mosque, daily prayer rituals and traditions continue to punctuate each day, uninterrupted even among the influx of tourists. For westerners wanting to enter, there is a fee and you must wear the hooded robe provided, remember to remove your shoes – once inside you are able to roam free. Narrow alleys filter their way through like veins within the old city – markets, coffee houses, restaurants and Turkish baths pitted throughout. The old quarters are home to hundreds of small businesses trading in everything from oriental spices and gold jewellery to Persian rugs and Damascene furniture.
Where to stay:
Boutique accommodation is available in the Old City, Hotel Talisman, Al Ameen Street, 116 Tal El-Hijara Street, (+963) 11 541 53 79, www. hoteltalisman.net. This charming hotel is in a restored palace and built around two beautiful courtyards, the larger one containing a swimming pool. Grab a bite to eat at Old Town (542 8088), off Sharia Bab Sharqi in the Christian quarter. They serve traditional Syrian food in an old courtyard. Also in the Christian quarter, Elissar serve Syrian and French dishes to guests in an old Damascene house setting.
When to go:
Spring, from March to May, is the most pleasant time of year to visit with an average of 22 degrees Celsius.
Getting there:
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Emirates flies direct to Damascus in three hours and 15 minutes. Visit www.emirates.com. April 09 / Ya hala 81
Travel
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Mumbai, India
01_ A piece of history, the Gateway to India.
Where:
In a city where more than half of its population live in squalor, it’s unfathomable to think that Mumbai in fact boasts more billionaires than Dallas and Tokyo. Yet its festive atmosphere continues to draw tourists by the bucket load, adding to the crowds of people that are packed to the rafters of every street, nook and cranny, all flowing to the beat of the chaotic traffic noises that purge from the motorbikes, buses and rickshaws. Feverish and addictive is the island city known as ‘the Gateway to India’.
02_ Whiz through the streets on a rickshaw. 03_ A trip to Bollywood will inspire budding actors. 04_ Visit the hub of India’s infamous rail system. 05_ Take it all in from your room at the Taj Mahal Palace.
Sights:
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82 Ya hala / April 09
Most recognised for its colonial-style buildings, teeming bazaars and superb restaurants, Mumbai is also the heart of India’s lucrative Bollywood film industry which pumps out more blockbusters than any other film house in the world. Located on the outskirts of the city, ‘film city’ is a studio of epic proportions with real life-sized sets of fake lakes, houses and trees. Closed to the public, permission for entry can
Travel be obtained by the relevant authorities with a little string pulling – do your research and you could end up rubbing shoulders with Bollywood’s biggest stars. Back in the city, the main tourist area of Colaba is home to the Gateway of India monument, an impressive basalt arch structure that dates back to the British colonial era. In the 16th century it was the entry route for foreign traders to India, hence it’s namesake. Built in striking Victorian Gothic style architecture the Chhatarapati Shivji Terminus (formerly Victoria Terminus), is Mumbai’s main train station and mustering the courage to buy a ticket to ride will take a convincing pep talk. If you’re brave enough, catch a train to Grant Road to visit the Chor Bazaar also known as Thieve’s Market, Mutton Street, near Mohammad Ali Road, open 11am-7.30pm daily, except Friday. It was originally given the name when stolen goods began finding their way into the market, but now it is a haven for antique and vintage finds. They sell everything from wooden carvings, statues and silver coins, to hardware, tools and engines. It’s located in Muslim Mumbai, so wear loose, conservative clothing. Like everywhere in India, approach food with caution to avoid getting sick. Khyber restaurant, Kala Ghoda, Colaba, www. khyberrestaurant.com, is a Mumbai dining institution and the ambient decor and delicious cuisine will leave you impressed.
Where to stay:
The Taj Mahal Palace & Tower in Mumbai, Apollo Bunder Mumbai 400 001, India, (91-22) 6665 3366, www.tajhotels. com, would have a VIP guest list worth framing – high profiles such as Mick Jagger, Queen Elizabeth, Alfred Hitchcock, John Lennon and Yoko Ono and have all stayed here. With views of the Arabian Sea and the Gateway of India, the combination of the hotel’s architectural charm and regal elegance is unmatched in the region.
When to go:
Visit during summer from March to May.
Getting there: Emirates flies direct to Mumbai in just two hours and 45 minutes. Visit www.emirates.com.
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Travel
Colombo, Sri LANKA Where:
Located on the west coast of the island of Sri Lanka, Colombo is a vibrant city set among lush, tropical terrain and alongside the Indian Ocean. For those in search of an exciting short break that covers all bases – fantastic shopping, beaches, temples, culturally rich museums, and delicious local cuisine – Colombo ticks all the boxes.
Sights:
Learn the history of Colombo and explore one of its museums. Culture buffs won’t want to miss out on visiting the Sri Lanka National Museum, 853 Sir Marcus Fernando Mawatha, (94) 11 269 5366, to view its unique ivory objects and amazing coin collection (dating back to 6th century BC). The massive skeleton of a blue whale is a must-see. Experience the locals at the Galle Face Green promenade located between chaotic main street Galle Road, and the ocean. It’s the largest open space in Colombo and provides fantastic people-watching opportunities as each weekend the area is repetitiously flooded with kite flyers, teenagers and picnickers. Head to Mount Lavinia, just 12km out of the city, if you want to enjoy a picturesque beach with much less crowds. Colombo is earning its name as one of the best shopping destinations in South East Asia. A visit to the Pettah market will allow you generous bargains on silver and gold, footwear, textiles and fabrics while the department stores house some of the world’s biggest namebrands at a fraction of the cost in Dubai. Check out Odel Unlimited, 5 Alexandra Road, Colombo 7, the most popular department store in Sri Lanka and House of Fashion, 28 R.A. De Mel Mawatha, Colombo 5, a multi-storey complex selling designer apparel and luggage. Both stores offer bargains for Victoria’s Secret lingerie, well known branded jeans and massive discounts on labels such as Polo Sport and Miss Selfridge. Looking to splurge? Gemstone shopping is a big hit in Colombo and Sri Lanka boasts the highest-quality sapphires, rubies, aquamarines and other precious stones.
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Where to stay:
Sri Lanka’s upbeat capital city is rich in history and the Portuguese, Dutch and British era-style buildings are windows into its colonial past. One of which, most notably, is the Galle Face Hotel, 2 Galle Road, Colombo 3, (941) 12541010/16, www.gallefacehotel.com, a heritage landmark from the British era that was established in 1864 and still operates as one of the oldest hotels in Asia. It is conveniently located in the heart of the city and the rooms take in panoramic views of the ocean. Appropriately, High Tea is served daily on the hotel’s open-air Veranda Restaurant. For a substantial meal the famous Beach Wadiya restaurant, 2 Station Avenue, Wellawatte, 258 8568/451 4477, has become legendary among seafood lovers for its baked crab dishes and laid-back setting on the sand.
01_ Relax with a book on the beach. 02_ Charming colonial-style buildings are prominent in the city.
When to go:
Visit during April when the monsoon seasons have passed.
Getting there:
Emirates flies direct to Colombo in four hours and 15 minutes, go to www.emirates.com.
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03_ The warm climate allows for year round swimming.
Travel
Manila, philippines Where:
Manila is a city that is often overlooked as a holiday destination, most preferring to bypass this fast-paced megametropolis for Philippine’s lush islands instead. Twice the size of Bangkok, Manila is a cosy conglomeration of skyscrapers, shopping malls, tower blocks, temples, shanty towns and freeways, but it is possibly best known for its exciting nightlife and after hours scene. Earlier centuries of war and colonisation have moulded the nation into its present state – the language, faith, culture and identity all influenced by the Spanish, Chinese, British and Americans. As a result, it was the first Asian city to ever have cinemas, jazz clubs, radio stations and train lines.
Sights:
The walled city, Intramuros, was built during the Spanish era in 1571 and is the old capital of Manila. Most of the fortress was destroyed in the Second World War and within what little still remains of the fort walls are the old Manila Cathedral and the San Augustin Museum. Manila’s cosmopolitan hub, Makiti City is the home to some of the regions’ best high-end nightlife, starting with every Thursday the cool kids come out to play at Fluxxe Thursdays at Absinth, level 3 Greenbelt 3 Ayala Center, Makati City. Formerly an 80s inspired night for fashion industry insiders, photographers and artists, this energetic party set are out to do one thing – let loose. Makati City functions as a one-stop shopping, dining and entertainment district and in the Greenbelt area you should check out Café Havana, popular for its Cuban music and finetuned mojitos. If you want to absorb the cultural heart and soul of Manila’s nightlife then head to eclectic Malate. You will find street food, restaurants, live music and quirky bars such as the Hobbit House where the bartenders are all midgets.
Where to stay:
Centrally located, the Makati Shangri-La Hotel, Ayala Avenue corner Makati Avenue, Makati City 120, (63 2) 813 8888, www.shangri-la.com/en/property/manila/ makatishangrila, is a hop, skip and jump away from the city’s finest shopping centres, theatres, museums and entertainment. Its convenient location means you can discover Manila’s inner city on foot. Nearby Greenbelt Shopping Mall is a great place to splash some cash with brands such as Topshop, Zara, Marks & Spencer, Jimmy Choo, Gucci and other top-end designers. The fashion savvy should check out the Power Plant Mall in Rockwells Centre, it houses some local and international designers and you’ll feel you’re walking away with a one-off find. Manila is home to the world’s third largest mall, a considerable feat. If you can manage the crowds, have a look, SM City North Edsa, North Avenue EDSA, Quezon City.
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01_ Moored fishing boats in Manila Bay.
When to go:
During April the humidity is at its lowest, and the weather is a little bit cooler with an average of 30 degrees Celcius.
Getting there:
Manila is an eight-hour flight from Dubai. Emirates flies direct, visit www.emirates.com.
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02_ Makati’s exciting nightlife will please the toughest critics. April 09 / Ya hala 85