The Last Sea Nomads

In the deep blue waters of the Coral Triangle lives a group of people known as The Bajau. For centuries, these sea-dwelling nomads have called the ocean their home, ultimately earning the title ‘People of the Sea’. We take the plunge and dive deep to learn about their way of life and the unique physical capabilities that make them significantly distinct from any other human being on this planet.

Words: Beverley Lennon

A scattering of pristine islands dispersed across both Indian and Pacific oceans, Indonesia is like nowhere else on Earth. This chain of more than 17,000 islands offers unspoiled beaches, crystal-clear waters, smouldering volcanoes and lush jungles, along with a collection of UNESCO Heritage Sites. The country’s ever changing landscapes make it one of the most diverse destinations to explore. But that’s not nearly all.

Indonesia is also an intriguing land of fascinating cultures. It is home to approximately 300 ethnic groups, with more than 700 languages and dialects being spoken across the archipelago. In some of the country’s most remote corners, visitors can come across the world’s last few indigenous tribes. These tiny pockets of people still maintain traditions and lifestyles passed down from their ancestors, one generation to the next.

Uninfluenced by modern civilization, many of these tribes live in ancient rainforests. But some more isolated than others, live away from the comfort of land. This group of people is known as The Bajau; and they call the deep ocean their home. They are born, raised, live and die at sea.

Unlike any other human on the planet, The Bajau are some of the last true wayfarers of the oceans. More commonly known as ‘sea nomads’, these masters of the waters are expert freedivers and have been living in the sea for centuries.

Once upon a time

Although the origins of the Bajau diaspora remain unclear, many believe that a mythical event led to the dispersal of the indigenous tribe. Legend has it that when a princess from Johor was swept away by a flash flood and lost in the Sulu Sea, her mourning father commanded his minions to search the ocean and not come back until they had found her.

As a result, those who set out in her pursuit have been wandering the sea ever since and never returned ashore. Instead, they made the ocean their permanent home, adopted a seaborne lifestyle and eventually labelled themselves as ‘underwater hunters’.

Life at sea

With no nationality and no fixed address, the Bajau people are a nation of the sea. To them, the ocean means everything. It’s not only their home or a playground for their children, it is their main source of food and income. Traditionally, they subsist on pelagic fish, pearls and sea cucumbers – an Asian delicacy that is also used in traditional Chinese medicine.

Within their community, men and women have very different responsibilities. That said, both roles are equally crucial to the functioning and survival of their societies. Bajau men are the primary bread-winners. They are responsible for hunting. Every morning, they board their small boats and set off to the deep ocean in search of sea creatures; or tonight’s dinner.

For the success of this mission, they need to be equipped. Handmade wooden goggles and a couple of spear guns made from boat timber, tyre rubber and scrap metal are all they need. Surprisingly, these seem to be adequate enough for their military precision under water.

Women on the other hand, are responsible for childcare and the preparation of food. They start their day by painting their faces with traditional borak paste made from turmeric, which protects their skin from the intensity of the sun. Once the tides go out, they can be seen scanning the shore for shellfish; perhaps their favourite side dish.

When stationary, Bajau families live above the water in stilt houses and lepas (houseboats). From here, men have easy access to the shore, where they go to trade for supplies, build new boats or to shelter from violent storms. But life on terra firma isn’t one for the Bajau. These real mermen and mermaids only feel whole when they are in their element: the ocean. They report feeling ‘landsick’ whenever circumstances force them to stay on stable ground for too long.

Bodies unlike any other

The Bajau people spend approximately 60% of their work day beneath the surface, looking for fish and harvesting other creatures from the ocean floor, all in one breath. dining exclusively on seafood, their lean bodies help them make better use of oxygen, compared to those with more body fat. This means that the Bajau have an impressive ability to hold their breath for a record-breaking time of over five minutes, making it the greatest daily apnea-diving time ever reported in humans. To put things in perspective, that’s longer than any highly trained diver. But how do they do it?

Researchers have found that the seafaring Bajau have developed unique genetic adaptations. With internal organs and body capabilities unlike any of us, the Bajau people are able to spend the majority of their days diving and hunting underwater without oxygen tanks or snorkels. In fact, it has been found that they have genetically developed spleens 50 percent larger than their land-dwelling neighbours. This unusual physical feature enables them to adapt to their low-oxygen environments.

Most Bajau children are born at sea. With the ocean being their only playground, they are raised to adapt to their surroundings. Since diving is part of their daily activities and crucial to their aquatic lifestyle, the Bajau deliberately rupture their eardrums at an early age. This way, they are able to dive painlessly. Bajau children also develop traits unlike any other human, such as remarkable underwater vision. They are able to see two times clearer underwater than other children. Swimming and diving are some of the first skills taught to youngsters, training the muscles in their eyes to constrict and let in more light while submerged. In later years, this mastery gives them the advantage of hunting harder-to-come-by sea treasures.

The Bajau today

For many reasons, it is possible that the current Bajau generation could be the last cohort able to sustain themselves on the water. despite being expert fishermen, it is getting harder for them to find fish due to the introduction of marine protected areas within the Coral Triangle. Commercial fishing has also disrupted the fishing traditions and ecosystems of the Bajau people, forcing them to start using other methods.

Today, the Bajau tribe is gaining more exposure to the modern world. Their freedom to move and live anywhere is becoming increasingly uncertain. In the past decades, controversial government resettlement programmes have led to the Bajau living under extreme economic, social, and political pressure.

Without a nationality, the Bajau children aren’t recognised citizens and therefore do not have access to adequate healthcare and education. By lack of choice, many Bajau families have given up their sea-based life and moved to coastal cities, ditching their centuries-old traditions for the future of their children. Their citizenship hangs in the balance.

But there is still hope. Many of the Bajau cling to their local wisdom and refuse to give up their way of life. Perhaps the most fundamental lesson we can take from them is the ability of humans to live in peace with their environment. For the Bajau, the ocean is sacred, both for spiritual and material survival. They believe that spirits inhabit the sea, that the ocean is the dwelling place of their gods and that the bounty of fish is their gift.