Issue 1 May 2010
CONTRIBUTORS Editor in Chief Assistant to Editor
Eliza Moore
Copy Editor
Katy Turner
Illustration by Music Mixed by Models
COVER LOOK Cream Body Suit £14, Beige Knee High Socks £6 both from TOPSHOP, Tan Cut Out Heels £75 from ALDO. 2
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Jacqueline Mason
Kathryn Braganza Robin Andrews Becca Nielsen Belle Kosh Hannah Vord
CONTENTS FASHION
4
Graphix
30
Leather Studded Kiss
40
Ruffle My Feathers
72
The Illustrated Woman
FEATURES
16
Going Above And Beyond
22
Neat Feet
30 TRENDS
68
Wooden Heels
69
Sandals
70
Mid Heels
71
Flats
DESIGNER PROFILE
64
Michael Lewis
STREET STYLE
82
Streets Of Style
PLAYLIST
84
Boom
GR
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FASHION
RAPHIx PHOTOGRAPHY BY JACQUELINE MASON
Suede Peep-toe Wedges £80 from TOPSHOP.
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FASHION
Grey Bandaged Wedges £70 from OFFICE.
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FASHION
Black Lace-up Wedges £39.95 from ALDO.
Leather Buckled Trainer Wedges ÂŁ135 from ASH.
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FASHION
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FASHION
Black Suede Cut-out Wedges £30 from NEW LOOK.
Black Buckled Wooden Wedges ÂŁ90 from TOPSHOP.
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FASHION
Photo taken at PURE London by Jacqui Mason
GOING AB AND BEYO
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BOVE OND
FEATURE
RETAILERS ARE BEGINNING TO REALISE THAT WOMEN’S FEET DO NOT STOP AT SIZE 8. FASHION EDITOR, JACQUELINE MASON, EXPLORES THE FULL EXTENT OF THIS SHIFT IN ATTITUDE AND FINDS OUT WHICH BRANDS THINK THAT ‘OUT SIZE’ IS IN STYLE. Text and Photography by Jacqueline Mason
COMMON PROBLEM Women are getting taller: we are now, on average, two inches taller than our fifties counterparts, and, as we grow so too do our feet. While a tiny size three and a half was the norm half a century ago the average foot is now a size six. Attitudes to shoe sizes have changed as almost 10 percent of women now wear a size eight or larger, some even sporting up to a size 12. However, it has taken time for the fashion world to tackle the changing shape of women and to answer the call for fashionable shoes which fit larger feet.
“Almost 10% of women now wear a size 8 or larger.” I myself have this problem and find it hard to clad my size nine feet in on-trend, envy-inducing footwear. Many women simply do not know where to shop for their size and feel that the high street simply aren’t equipped to cater for their needs. Rhona, a size nine, from Scotland, agrees: “All I can say is thank god for the Internet! I buy the majority of my shoes online. Going into a shop and buying a pair of shoes off the shelf is a very rare thing for me.” Women should not feel as if they are out of the ordinary if they have large feet, but unfortunately it is a lot harder to find fashionable styles, as the industry just have not caught up with the times. Many plus size wearing women are frustrated with the footwear available to them. Ruth, a size 10, from Leicester, described her difficulties: “I’m happy enough with the size of my feet, I’m tall, so small feet would look odd. The only thing that makes me feel bad about their size is the fact that shops seem to think I’m too weird to cater for.” Sales of size nine women’s shoes increased by 23 percent in 2009, according to a new survey by leading department store, Debenhams, while their sales of size six styles only increased by 17 percent. This proves there is an increasing demand for these larger sizes. Because of these findings Debenhams are now considering stocking size 10 across all of its ranges. Let’s hope other 18
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brands will follow their lead. I travelled to the trade shows of London and Birmingham to find out which brands were already taking the initiative.
TRADING UP The trends we see on the High Street and, for that matter, on our feet all emerge from the industry experts at trade fairs such as PURE (London) and MODA (Birmingham). I went along to get the low down on what brands thought of the ‘out size’ footwear market and which brands produce and sell shoes over a UK size eight. Designers across the board, with a wide range of price points, flock here to share ideas and shape the future of the industry, yet still the majority of designers did not go beyond a size eight. This narrow range simply serves to reinforce the frustration felt from women with feet larger than the industry deems as normal. There were some specialist stalls for wider shoes, especially at MODA with E. Sutton & Son’s wider fitting footwear, but for the most part larger feet seemed to have been overlooked. I was surprised to find these wide shoes were also only available to a UK size eight and some only up to a seven. This may have been because the demand for larger shoes is minimal in the North of the country as was pointed out by the Sales manager
Burberry S/S10
FEATURE
“Some brands ar beginning to see gap in the marke bringing about la sizes in the near of Ravel. “You can hardly give away anything over a size eight up North, let alone sell it”. Two years ago Ravel made the pledge to produce all their shoes up to a UK size 9, but now, due to apparent dwindling sales of the larger sizes, they only produce a selection of styles in a size 9. The new range predominantly consists of the functional flats as many women with larger feet tend to be significantly taller. Strangely, representation of out size styles is notable in its absence at both MODA and PURE. None of Ravel’s A/W10 size 9 shoes were on display, instead being described as ‘in production’: no wonder there’s little interest in larger sizes if they are not even available for buyers to see. This was 20
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also the case for French Sole’s Pirouette Collection which features shoes from a size 9 to 11. Their collection was nowhere to be seen at PURE despite French Sole being the only company at both trade shows I talked to that went higher than a 9. In spite of this, the brand representative did confirm they get a lot of interest in this range and it is selling well as they address the need for younger, more fashionable, shoes in larger sizes as younger girls are growing taller and bigger. I was very happy to see a few more fashion led brands either already producing larger sizes or planning to. The Italy based footwear brand Ash produce all their styles up to a size nine. Their collections range from
re the et and arger future.� hard wearing biker boots and feminine trainers, to studded killer heels and intricate sandals. Being able to purchase all of these styles in a size nine feels like a luxury, an emotion which surely must be a crime in itself. Some brands are obviously beginning to see the gap in the market and bringing about larger sizes in the near future. Shellys London confirmed that they have been considering producing their younger, more fashion conscious styles up to size nine, in response to growing pressure from the expanding market. Another brand thinking of introducing bigger sizes to their UK range is Blowfish. The American brand is distinctive for its trend led styles and faux leather: a popular choice due to
FEATURE
its realistic appearance at a fraction of the cost. I talked to one of their sales representatives, Anthony Nathan, at MODA, who told me they have had many buyers asking about larger sizes. “We do get a lot of interest about larger sizes in the UK but there is not nearly as much interest here as there is from our American retailers.� Their American range already goes up to a UK size 15, incredibly, as there is a much stronger market in the U.S.A. for larger sizes. Now, due to an increasing demand across the pond, they are aiming to make these sizes more readily available in the UK. At present buyers are able to get larger sizes shipped from overseas, but obviously this incurs extra costs. Some buyers are willing to accept these in order to be a cut above the rest but many, understandably, are not. Once Blowfish bring these larger sizes to their UK buyers, we can all reap the benefits. So, it seems that the daunting task of finding well fitting shoes will become easier for those with size nine feet, but the industry has a long way to go before it makes women wearing size 10 plus shoes feel accepted. At least the footwear market are beginning to take notice of larger feet, and can see the want and need for more fashionable styles for a younger target audience. This market has never before seen so much choice, and although it is still very limited in comparison, brands are beginning to listen to the pleas for help and attractive footwear from girls and women with large feet all over the country.
N NF
EATEAT EET INNOVATION IS KEY WITHIN THE FASHION INDUSTRY. WE DELVED INTO THE FUTURISTIC WORLD OF
Alexander McQueen S/S10
FOOTWEAR.
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FEATURE
EET
F Text by Jacqueline Mason
progressive and intuitive designers. progressive Dubbed the ‘armadillo’ and beloved by Lady Gaga, the jewel in his crown must surely be his curved, 10 inch KHHO boots: ERRWV textured, WH[WXUHG tough WRXJK and DQG heel, alien in design. Alongside these he showcased metal clad, industrial showcased looking ankle ankleboots boots looking and and brightbright blue blue plastic stilettos with creature a water plastic stilettos with a water creature His inspiration? type feel.type Hisfeel. inspiration? Global Global warming theof future of our warming and theand future our world: world: His garments translated the His garments translated the shocking shocking realisation of may how have we may realisation of how we to KDYH WR DGDSW WR RXU ZDWHU\ H[LVWHQFH adapt to our watery existence once oncepolar the ice polar icehad caps had melted. caps melted. While The Spring/Summer 2010 collection the While be McQueen’s gone, McQueen’s mayhe bemay gone, legacy from late, JUHDW great $OH[DQGHU Alexander he IURP the WKH ODWH legacyonlives on in his groundbreaking in his ground breaking and McQueen McQueen was a tribute to his legacy lives . and engaging designs as one of Britain’s consistently engaging . designs Fashion has always been about pushing the boundaries of the accepted modes, the conventions of practicality and morality. But where can fashion move to now? Every era has been re-explored from (YHU\ HUD KDV EHHQ UHÄĽH[SORUHG IURP the longest past to furthest future, models have graced the runway in the tiniest scraps and the vastest swathes. The answer came in the form of footwear as designers turn to increasingly futuristic and original silhouettes, revolutionising the way we look at accessories. accessories.
Mellissa and Vivienne Westwood S/S10
Mellissa and Vivienne Westwood S/S10 Mellissa and Zaha Hadid S/S10
objects of desire. Melissa’s mantra states that “This is not a shoe, it is a fashion accessory.” Iconic British designer Vivienne Westwood would appear to agree as she embarked on a collaboration with the brand to create the ‘Lady Dragon’ shoe. An instant hit, this candy-cute peeptoe sling-back with quirky detailing comes in a range of eye popping 24
colours (our favourite is the baby blue with bright pink heart detail.) They’re even bubblegum scented for the ultimate pop culture fix, and while they might break your heart they won’t break your wallet at around £90 a pair. Following the success of this collaboration, Melissa are planning to create another dream team in the
Mellissa and Jean Paul Gaultier S/S10
The next innovation in design features a move away from the traditional materials. When we think of plastic shoes we may think of Perspex stripper platforms and children in jellies but Brazilian shoe designer Melissa has changed all that. This simple and unexpected material is lovingly formed into
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form of Jean Paul Gaultier for their 30th anniversary, creating a plastic stiletto sandal which is set to launch in August of this year. These plastic shoes embody innovation and technology and are so easily made the classic model can be produced in less than one minute. They come in a massive variety of fun, bold colours and styles which include velvet feel
Julian Hakes Mojito Shoe
FEATURE
pieces. But designers are not the only people that Melissa has collaborated with: an array of creatives including stylists, jewellery designers and architects have all helped develop their unique product. Well known American architect Zaha Hadid, created a design which mirrored the fluid organic contours of the body and proved a very popular piece. Hadid is not the only architect to cross over to the world of fashion design. Architecture and footwear innovation seem to go hand in hand, proved by
the London architect Julian Hakes, who created the unique ‘Mojito’ shoe. It is a completely revolutionary design which requires no foot plate. The shoe is formed of one single piece, a sandwich of leather, carbon fibre and rubber, which wraps around the foot supporting it only where necessary. The twisted silhouette of the shoe provides a rest for the heel and ball as the foot naturally forms its own bridge between the two. Hakes describes the science behind his design: “The foot has its own inbuilt strength and support so why duplicate
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United Nude and 223 collaboration 2007
United Nude and 223 collaboration 2007
FEATURE
From architecture to furniture design, most creative industries have attempted experimental footwear. United Nude takes ideas from the most mundane office furniture to
inspire their conceptual collection. Using metal heels and fluid designs they have created futuristic but wearable shoes ranging from sandals and court shoes to wedges and boots. United Nude was founded by Rem D. Koolhaas, a Dutch architect, and Galahad Clark, the seventh generation of the Clarks shoe making dynasty and was launched in 2003 with their trademark ‘Möbius’ shoe. They have collaborated with Dutch designer Antoine Peters, sportswear brand K Swiss, and photographers Dr. Sky and 223. Our favourite piece within their Spring/Summer 2010 collection is the ‘Low Res’ heeled shoe, which gives the illusion that the shoe has become pixelated, reinforcing how technology influences the United Nude collections.
United Nude Lo Res S/S10
this. You would not have a jumper with rigid arms between elbow and wrist.” The Mojito was so named for its resemblance to a spiral of lime peel integral to the fruity cocktail, adding a sense of fun to the shoe. Although not completely wearable, his design allows us to reconsider our preconceived notions of what we ‘need’ from a shoe, shattering normal illusions of footwear. Hakes anticipates launching a new design this summer.
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Footwear innovation is becoming the latest trend for fashion houses to make their mark and show their credibility. It is interesting to see that many architects are now crossing over and creating new and exciting designs within the fashion world. Who knows, perhaps fashion will begin to influence architecture. After all, wouldn’t the world be a more exciting place with a Louboutin Tower or McQueen Bridge?
Andreia Chaves’ Prism Shoe
Technology is allowing some amazing ideas come to life, there seems to be no end to the possibilities. South American designer Andreia Chaves’ series of creations bring out her eccentric, experimental side and are designed purely for the aesthetics. The most exciting of these is the ‘Invisible Shoe’ which has a mirrored surface giving the illusion of invisibility. The exterior of the shoe will mirror any environment, making your foot almost disappear and camouflage into it’s background. Although, there is no chance of you becoming a wall flower in this extremely outlandish and exciting design. This is an amazing example of a designer completely thinking outside the box. Chaves finds her inspiration from the hustle and bustle of her hometown of Sao Paulo: “Being in contact with such diversity and constant exposure to different visual inputs has inspired me in how I think and conceptualize my shoes.” She likes experimenting with different materials and has produced other creations such as the ‘Prism Shoe’ which uses ideas from the intricate art form of origami. Her ‘Form and Texture Shoe’ explores the shape of a cube and uses wood to create a textured exterior. Chaves’ fashion background helps her to design original ideas, but still in keeping with current fashion movements and beautiful aesthetics.
Andreia Chaves’ Invisible Shoe
FEATURE
Cut-out Black Body £18 from ASOS BOUDOIR, Black Leggings £8 from NEW LOOK Customised with Fringing, Lace and Eyelet detailed Heels £80 from ALDO.
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FASHION
RUFFLE MY FEATHERS Photography, Styling and Films by Jacqueline Mason Models - Belle Kosh and Becca Nielsen
Belle wears: Pink Body Suit £14, Beige Knee High Socks £6 all from TOPSHOP, Bronze Cut Out Shoes £29.50 from EVANS.
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Becca wears: Silk Pants £3 from BHS, Two Tone Tights £10 from ASOS, Lace Crop Top £12, Ruffle Sling Backs £20 both from NEW LOOK.
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Becca wears: Grey Feather Cape £40, Nude Tights £4 both from ASOS, Bra £14, Lace Body Suit £25 both from TOPSHOP, Grey Suede Boots £40 From OFFICE. Belle wears: Cream Feather Cape £40 from ASOS, Cream Body Suit £14, Lace Flower Tights £8 both from TOPSHOP, Beige Suede Heels £45 from BELLE AND MIMI.
Belle wears: Pleated Top £14.99 from H&M, Vintage Belt Stylists Own, Ankle Socks £4 from JONATHAN ASTON, Mesh Heels £90 from FAITH. Becca wears: Satin Top £19.99 from H&M, Cream Bandage Heels £80 from ALDO, Rope Belt from Haberdashery.
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FASHION
Becca wears: Vest Top £6, Lace Pants £6 both from TOPSHOP, Vintage Belt Stylists Own, Lace Ankle Socks £5 from ASOS, Pink Grey and Cream Heels £70 from FAITH. Belle wears: Fur Stole £24.99 from H&M, Cream Body Suit £14, Mauve Lace Body Suit £20, Beige Knee High Socks £6 all from TOPSHOP, Pink Platform Sandals £30 from NEW LOOK. 52
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FASHION
LEFT Belle w Pleate Top £1 from H Vintag Belt St Own, A Socks £4 fro
JONAT
ASTO Mesh £90 fr FAITH
RI Belle C Lace £25 TOPS B F Kn £4 fro SE Green High £16 DIE B W 54
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£70 A
T wears: ed 14.99 H&M, ge tylists Ankle
om
THAN
ON, Heels rom H.
IGHT wears: Cream e Body 5 from SHOP, Brown French nickers om LA ENZA, n Knee Socks 6 from ESEL, Brown Wooden Heels 0 form ALDO.
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Becca wears: Sequined Top £25 from MISS SELFRIDGE, High Waisted Pants £8 from TOPSHOP. Belle wears: Cream Lace Body £25 from TOPSHOP, Brown Lace Bra £16 from LA SENZA.
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FASHION
Becca wears: Cream Body Suit £14, Beige Knee High Socks £6 both from TOPSHOP, Tan Cut Out Heels £75 from ALDO.
MICHAEL LEWI Getting to Know People in High Places
Michael Lewis Elise Shoe S/S10
Michael Lewis Baboushka Shoe S/S10
Board games and Agatha Christie characters may not sound like the most conventional inspiration for a pair of shoes, but Michael Lewis is no conventional designer.
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Lewis is the hottest new footwear designer to break away from other brands and create his own line. He has worked with some great names within the fashion world, such as Gucci, Kurt Geiger and Luella. His debut A/W 09 collection was quickly snapped up by progressive London store Dover Street Market and since then the whole industry has been talking about his eccentric and heritage inspired pieces. His quirky, individual aesthetic shows a sense of British humour which has especially captured the attention of Tom Ford. Lewis is set to take up the position of head of footwear for Tom Ford womenswear later this year. Lewis draws his influences from many different sources, including bric-a-brac shops where the most unusual items
Michael Lewis Lookbook image S/S10
DESIGNER PROFILE
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Michael Lewis Lookbook image S/S10
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DESIGNER PROFILE
will jump out and spark a design. He collects items such as old books and lampshades; vases and even board games will inspire him. “I love the dressing-up-box glamour of yesteryear and have a strange fascination with murder mysteries such as Poirot.”
His eagerly awaited first collection for Tom Ford Womenswear will launch in September 2010 making Lewis definitely one to watch. To buy pieces from the Spring Summer collection head over to Dover Street Market in London and for more information visit his website www.michaellewislondon.com.
Michael Lewis Annika Shoe S/S10
British, born and bred, Lewis is originally from Cumbria. He started his footwear career 15 years ago after graduating from Central St Martins, when he was taken in by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. He made a brilliant impression on the industry and landed further jobs working with Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, Christopher Bailey at Burberry and Tom Ford at Gucci.
Michael Lewis Gretal Shoe S/S10
Lewis described his first collection as “eccentric and daring, flamboyant and sexy” which is also apparent in his Spring Summer collection. He uses colour to great effect and celebrates a contrast of textures. Patent leather is juxtaposed by suede, complemented by ornamental heels and tassel details. His creations are elegant and sophisticated with an irrepressible element of fun.
£49.99, by CLARKS
£60, by OFFICE
£255, by JIMMY CHOO
£45, by FAITH
£40, by ALDO
£35, by BARRATTS
£130, by UGG AUSTRALIA
WOODEN HEELS Clogs are back in style, in all their chunky glory
£59.99, by CLARKS 68
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TRENDS
£285, by LOUBOUTIN
£45, by OFFICE
£39.99, by CLARKS
SANDALS Straps, buckles, chains and studs adorn summers sandals £385, by CHLOE
£60, by ALDO
£45, by FAITH
£28, by TOPSHOP
£14.99, by SHOE ZONE
£22, by BARRATTS
£30, by NEW LOOK
£49.99, by CLARKS
£70, by OFFICE
£40, by TOPSHOP
£60, by OFFICE
£45, by NEW LOOK
MID HEELS No more back breaking platforms, mini heels are back
£15, by PRICELESS SHOES 70
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TRENDS
£25, by BARRATTS
£28, by TOPSHOP
£35, by OFFICE
FLATS It’s all in the details with the seasons new flats
£9.99, by SHOE ZONE
£25, by TOPSHOP
£10, by PRICELESS SHOES
£22, by BARRATTS
£45, by ALDO
ILLUSTRATION BY KATHRYN BRAGANZA
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Rope Detailed Shoes £620 from CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN.
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FASHION
Leather Sandals £45 from CLARKS.
Spiked Slingbacks ÂŁ540 from CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN.
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FASHION
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FASHION
Leather and Suede Shoes £910 from SERGIO ROSSI.
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FASHION
Canvas and Leather Sandals ÂŁ410 from CHLOE.
STREETS OF STYLE Photography by Eliza Moore
ASOS Black strapped heels
NEW LOOK Lace-up patent leather boots
OFFICE Lace-up 2 tone brogue style flats
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STREET STYLE
TOPSHOP Cream laceup cut out flats
ASH Snakeskin wooden heel1ed sandals
VINTAGE Crocodile patterned loafers
OOM BOOM B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MIX BY DEEP FOCUS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
DEADMAU5 & KASKADE.........................................................Faxing Berlin [Piano Version]
ELLIE GOULDING....................................................................Guns and Horses DEADMAU5 & KASKADE............................................................I Remember FRIENDLY FIRES.....................................................................Jump In The Pool (Thin White Duke Remix)
DEADMAU5 & KASKADE.....................................More Ghosts 'n Stuff SUB FOCUS............................................................................Could This Be Real MSTRKRFT feat. John Legend.............................................Heartbreaker PASSION PIT....................................................................................Eyes as Candles
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PLAYLIST
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