VOL. 1 NO. 2 I OCTOBER 27-NOVEMBER 2, 2013
YOUR WEEKLY LIFESTYLE SUPPLEMENT
TASTE BUD
BREAKFAST BITES WANDERLUST
MESMERIZED BY MYANMAR GOOD LIVING
A SUBURBAN DREAM HOUSE CULTURE VULTURE
A FAMED ARTIST’S INDONESIAN MUSE
What’s She Got Cooking? FARAH QUINN LOOKS TO STIR UP SUCCESS ABROAD
Noted in passing ON OUR MENU WHAT WAS your week like? Mine was pretty much the same old, same old routine, but with the pleasant diversion of stopping in at Jakarta Fashion Week. I caught the opening ceremony – a winning speech by Tourism and Creative Economy Minister Mari E. Pangestu to keep the audience engaged – and also the show by Edward Hutabarat on Monday. The latter’s presentations are always special. There are of course his gorgeous batiks – what a sight of the line of models, from all over the world, looking stylish in the traditional fabric – but Edo is also a character, with his formidable personality and call-it-like-he-sees-it attitude. A Batak man raised in Jakarta, perfecting a time-honored craft from Java and seemingly always gallivanting to some unexplored corner of this archipelago, he represents all the beauty in diversity of this wonderful land. See for yourself Edo’s designs, perfect for traveling, in A la Mode.
MARK MY WORDS
MISPLACED National Pride A sense of nationalism should be much more than fiery declarations and jingoistic calls to action. WORDS JOKO ANWAR
Perhaps that is the inclusive sense of nationalism we need today in our sometimes divided society. And Joko Anwar skewers what he sees as a disjointed definition of nationalism in the column on this page. Have you heard of the late Russian expatriate artist Tretchikoff – often labeled the “king of kitsch” – and his love for a Dutch-Indonesian woman he met here in Jakarta during World War II? Read about this passionate but short-lived affair on page 15. For behind the scenes photos and information, follow us at @JplusSunday, Instagram JplusSunday and FB /SundayJplus. Have a great Sunday! Bruce Emond
Check List
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Fighting Fit
It may be a case of “game off” if you over-extend yourself at the gym. Tips to avoid getting hurt in action.
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Rock of Ages
Myanmar’s famous brick temples have survived the test of time. A captivating trip to Bagan.
ON THE COVER Farah Quinn
Bella skirt Elie Tahari Scarf Sonia Rykiel Cardigan Maje (available at Galeries Lafayette Jakarta) Photographer Ricko Sandy MUA Tania Ledezma Stylist Willy Wilson Location Ritz Carlton, Pacific Place www.ritzcarlton.com/jakartapacificplace
JPlus Team Editor Bruce Emond I bruce@thejakartapost.com Deputy Editor Willy Wilson Graphic Designer Budhi Hartono Copy Editor Imogen Badgery-Parker MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sales & Marketing Director Ady P. Pamungkas I ady.pamungkas@thejakartapost.com Marketing Executives Dewi Damayani I dewi.damayani@thejakartapost.com Sugeng Andrianto I sugeng.andrianto@thejakartapost.com
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THE HEADLINE “Indonesian Students Make 3D Animated Movie to Challenge Hollywood” caught my attention recently. I had a flashback to my childhood, when my little brother boasted to our rich neighbor that our father would buy him a new bike if he got good grades. I didn’t understand why he made the exaggerated claim, but I remember feeling embarrassed. I was similarly embarrassed when I checked out the trailer of the animated movie; it was so crappy it would be criminal to make people pay to watch it. That said, if the film producers had not hyped it as a glorious vehicle to fight Hollywood’s dominance, it could have ranked as a respectable effort by students who are still learning their craft. Unfortunately, the film’s PR team is not alone in this trend of rallying around the flag and slapping a nationalistic label on everything, from movies to smartphone apps, clothing lines to sports events. I am not complaining about the spirit of loving one’s country; I am sure there’s still some relevance to it even in this day and age. What concerns me is whether we are losing the ability to measure and evaluate efforts on their real merits. Today, it seems that as long as something is labeled as “Indonesian”, the consensus is that it is inherently sufficient to pass muster. This does away with any need to go that bit further and raise the quality of our creativity; after all, we are only selling the label of nationalism and are hungry for acknowledgment and approval from the outside. Clearly, we are suffering from a collective inferiority
complex. Many of my fellow talented filmmakers, upon returning from international film festivals, have been asked by journalists what it felt like to “mengharumkan nama bangsa”, literally to make Indonesia’s name smell good abroad. Without the public’s knowledge or discernment, bad filmmakers merely have to submit their movie to obscure film festivals, and then claim that it is a huge achievement for Indonesia. They then approach ignorant companies and ministries to get them to sponsor their next shoddy ventures. Not to be forgotten is the local pop singer who tries oh-so-hard to make it in the United States, supported by millions of her social media followers who believe that their idol really is trying to do it for all Indonesians. Her name is immediately associated with the campaign to “go international”, which of course became outdated with the advent of broadband Internet. Marketing people are to blame, too, for leaping on every chance to sell national pride. Movies are no longer judged based on their technical and aesthetic merits, but on their heavy dose of jingoism. Inspiring stories for novels and movies today tell of poor Indonesians who venture abroad to Europe or America. They are celebrated regardless of whether they really achieved anything; it was enough that they made it abroad. There should be a national campaign to promote individual excellence, which will then automatically raise national prestige by delivering real achievements that meet global standards and innovations that can be used by anyone on the planet. Better yet, let’s have a national campaign to dispense with all the nationalistic lingo and hyperbole. Although that could leave our politicians with nothing left to say. The writer is a director and screenwriter.
table of FRIENDS
The Breakfast Club They say it’s the most important meal of the day, so how does breakfast measure up for our feasting fivesome?
@zoyaamirin
@edwardsuhadi
There’s one thing that I really hate, and that is being sleepy while I am working. Unfortunately, this has been happening a lot lately. I often forget that food is fuel. Dig into your good old (heavy) Indonesian breakfast – bubur ayam (chicken porridge), lontong sayur (rice cake served with coconut milk soup), nasi uduk (coconut-flavored rice and savory sides) – and rest assured you’ll be on a sugar high within the hour. You will also need crowbars to keep your eyes open (been there, done that!). I’m now eating eggs and bananas for breakfast, and also hating myself less. :-)
@mrshananto
I am a huge bubur ayam fan! I can let you know the many places where you can get a yummy bowl. For instance, if you work around the SCBD area, stop by the stall on Jl. Senopati. Or you can check out another hawker stall on Jl. Sunda, just outside Sarinah Thamrin. When I feel like treating myself for some really good (and pricey!) brekkie, I go to the legendary Bubur Ayam Tanjung in Menteng. Just let me know where you go for your preferred bowl of porridge in the morning!
@ReneCC
I’m hardly a morning person – and breakfast does not really help. I tend to eat too much or too little. Bubur ayam used to be my personal favorite, but it often comes with an unpleasant acid indigestion all day. Coffee is a pleasant morning-kicker, but taking it without anything else usually kicks me a tad too hard so that I get dizzy (comparable to drinking beer, and I obviously prefer the latter). I tried the whole fruit dish diet, but I ended up feeling like a monkey with intelligent human IQ that lasted until lunch. A dear friend @FarinaJS suggested coffee with unsalted butter (Google Paleo Diet if you’re that curious). I’m giving this curious diet a second look ... But if you know of a healthy and tasty breakfast menu, do let me know. If in the end nothing suits me, I will erase the word breakfast from my vocabulary. The whole of Spain never had breakfast and they seem to be OK (well, maybe not financially ...). But as far as morning intake is concerned, I am ready to turn Spanish! Buenos días.
I only have breakfast if I wake up early, which is rare as I’m nocturnal. I have a habit of staying up all night (not necessarily to get lucky! … OK, fine, I do enjoy my sexy chatting with other night owls). But if you consider a plate of nasi uduk, bubur ayam (Bubur Ayam Cikini) or shabu-shabu – Kemang’s 24-hour dim sum joint is my favorite – at 5 a.m. a breakfast, then I’m your girl. When I do manage to get up early, I usually have my breakfast in the car on my way to work (preferred menu is Nasi Uduk Condet or my sis-in-law’s Bubur Manado ...). Speaking of which, my late aunt, Zusye Rauw-Inaray, used to buy me breakfast while I was getting myself together. And thanks to my work, I also often have breakfast in hotels (I need some really good brekkie to conduct a whole day’s training!). While I enjoy the local fare at hotels, I also like my hash browns, baked bacon or salmon with bagel and cheese.
@iwetramadhan
Breakfast is the most important meal of the day and I simply cannot get through the day without it. As a morning radio show presenter, I have developed my own unique skill of getting my breakfast wrapped up in 10 minutes – broken down into two songs and one commercial slot. Yup, for 12 years I have had my express breakfast on the go. A gloriously relaxing breakfast is a luxury saved for the weekend. Still, everything considered, I am very lucky.
Join us at the table: send your feedback to @TOFChat and @JPlusSunday JPLUS October 27, 2013
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A la MODE
Traveling Light FINDING THE appropriate tropical holiday attire isn’t always easy, but there’s no excuse for sloppy dressing. Look no further than Edward Hutabarat and Obin for smart and stylish travel. The former is known for giving a briliant contemporary twist to heritage Indonesian fabric, as seen in his solo show at the 2014 Jakarta Fashion Week. Maintaining the integrity of the fabric, Edo turned festive batik prints into loose jumpsuits, cardigans and tulleinserted cocktail dresses that exuded a light and airy quality. Meanwhile, Obin showacased a similarly effortless collection at Plaza Indonesia Men’s Fashion Week, which came in the form of mid-calf harem pants, Nehru jackets and an updated version of the changshan – all in fine cotton and heritage motifs, of course.
BON VOYAGE A complete head-to-toe style guide for stylish, urban travelers. WORDS WILLY WILSON
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JPLUS October 27, 2013
Courtesy of Louis Vuitton; Jakarta Fashion Week; Plaza Indonesia Men’s Fashion Week; Vacheron Constantin
A la MODE
Luxe Nomad WHO SAYS you can’t be stylish and practical for a winter holiday? Here are a selection of tasteful jackets, backpack, duffel bag, carry-on luggage and sneakers that will guarantee style and comfort during your holiday. Marc Jacobs
Dorothy Perkins
Global Citizen Lacoste
WITH A LIST of offbeat hideouts, corner cafes, quirky antique shops and radical theaters recommended by local hipsters – and the obligatory cool bars and hotels – Louis Vuitton City Guide has been the bible for discerning urban travelers since 1998. To mark its 15th anniversary, the fashion powerhouse takes you to 15 megacities – Beijing, Cape Town, Hong Kong, London, Los Angeles, Mexico City, Miami, Moscow, New York, Paris, Sao Paulo, Seoul, Sydney, Tokyo and Venice. Unlike its regular guide book, this limited edition pack features an eclectic mix of contributors including Korean actor Lee Byung-Hun and Brazilian architect Marcio Kogan.
Adidas by Stella McCartney Tumi
Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants WAS IT a skirt or pants? That was the question on many fashion editors’ minds as they watched the Alexander Wang fashion show last September. As it turned out, it was cullotes, the wide-legged pants that makes a perfect travel companion thanks to the comfortable and roomy cut. Wang, along with Emporio Armani, Philip Lim, Mulberry and Proenza Schouler, managed to fuse a “cool” fashion factor into this usually mundane item. Lengths varied – some ended mid-calf, others above the kneecap – but the tailorings were equally impeccable. Take a cue from Victoria Beckham for a maximum impact; pair it with a sleek blazer, a cropped top or a graphic sweater, and finish off the look with killer heels.
Time Will Tell
Emporio Armani
EVERY STYLISH traveler worth his salt knows that a reliable watch is the best travel buddy any man could ever hope for. It is no surprise that Vacheron Constantin’ Patrimony Tradionnelle WorldTime is a popular timepiece among affluent, globe-trotting men. When it was launched in 2011, it was the first – and arguably remain the only – mechanical watch designed to work in all 37 different timezones. The 258-year-old watch manufacturer created a limited edition of this series for Only Watch, a bi-annual charity held during Monaco Yacht Show. This one-of-a-kind piece comes in platinum and features a white cloisonné enamel dial, with a red 24-hour day/night ring.
JPLUS October 27, 2013
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HOSTESS WITH THE MOSTEST WITH NEW TV PROGRAMS AND OPPORTUNITIES TO TAKE HER TALENTS TO US NETWORKS, CELEBRITY CHEF FARAH QUINN HAS A LOT ON HER PLATE. WORDS BRUCE EMOND I PHOTOS RICKO SANDY
Dress Moschino Cheap and Chic Earrings Belle Amie Bracelet Paris Jolie
C
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JPLUS October 27, 2013
hef Farah Quinn is listing her many projects in the pipeline when she reflects on the first time we met, almost five years ago. Then starting out with the TV program A la Chef, she arrived for that interview dressed for the boardroom, in a gray business suit, ruffled blouse and heels. She was a little hesitant, perhaps looking to impress, something she acknowledges with a laugh. “Well, I was still shy back then,” Farah jokes. Fitness-fanatic Farah went on to spice things up on the airwaves. Young and good-looking, she was a qualified pastry chef who had acquired an American twang from living in the United States during high school and her early 20s. She pioneered the new category of “sexy chef”; she says she is bemused by the phenomenon, which now extends to buff male kitchen dab hands. “I came at the perfect time. Now there are so many sexy chefs out there. It’s getting a bit ridiculous. If you search Indonesian female chefs, what comes up looks like a FHM spread. For me, I wasn’t looking to be a sexy chef, it was just part of me caring about my body and my health,” she says.
cover STORY
Sweater Sonia Rykiel Shorts Maje (available at Galeries Lafayette Jakarta)
“TO HEAR PEOPLE JUDGE ME AT THE BEGINNING WAS DIFFICULT, BUT I HAD TO REALIZE THAT I NEEDED TO DEAL WITH IT”
“Today it’s like, ‘oh that girl looks sexy, let’s have her cook and put her on TV’. But that’s not right. You have to know what you are doing as a chef. I’m a bit disappointed with that, but I am also happy to be a door opener for them.” Despite her protestations, sexy she was (she also has been known to do a saucy magazine spread or two); the joke was that her cooking show suddenly attracted a loyal following of male viewers. With her business savvy honed by studying finance in university, she made the most of her celebrity to win product endorsements aplenty as well as major magazine covers. She acknowledges the past five years have been “amazing”, with the birth of her son, Armand, and her career success, which came by chance during a visit back to Indonesia. But there was the inevitable period of adjustment; she describes her almost overnight success and being thrust into the public eye as “very shocking”. Living in Jakarta was also new to Farah, who grew up in Sumatra. “It took time for me to find good friends. You don’t know who to trust, or where you will fit in. As a normal individual, you need
those personal friendships. All my friends were in the US,” she says. “So I was a bit lonely at the beginning. I just focused on my work, but now it’s all a bit better.” And not everybody found Farah to their taste. Like she says, some criticized her for seemingly putting her sexiness on the front burner. Many initially dismissed her as nothing more than eye candy and a flash in the celebrity-obsessed pan. “To hear people judge me at the beginning was difficult, but I had to realize that I needed to deal with it,” she says. “I could show them the kind of person I am, that I am a good person trying to do what is my passion. And a lot of people changed. People will tell me, ‘when I first saw you, I couldn’t stand you, but now I’m your fan’.” She has found her support group now; given her multicultural upbringing, she feels very comfortable mixing in the expatriate crowd. Trump card But a sexy chef has a shelf life, too, Farah says. A la Chef has run its course, and Farah, 33, has bigger fish to fry, including hosting the first season of Top Chef
Indonesia on SCTV and a juicy – but still embryonic – business deal with none other than Donald Trump. “It’s a fantastic show,” she says of Top Chef. “It’s different from Masterchef because the chefs have to be professional chefs and have a strong background in the hotel or restaurant industry.” She is filling the formidably fancy shoes of Padma Lakshmi from the well-known US show, but she says she relished the opportunity to work with the “boys” of the all-male judging panel: chef-restaurateurs Chris Salans and Will Meyrick, Vindex Tengker of The Dharmawangsa Jakarta and Henry A. Bloem of the Indonesian Chefs Association. “Working with those boys is unbelievable. I was friends with them before, but working with them was such an amazing experience,” she says. “It’s actually kind of easy for me, a nice job. I’m just hosting and tasting the food, while the judges are doing the hard work.” Time constraints meant that, to host the show, she had to say goodbye to her original TV cooking show, which has taken her on jaunts across the nation. She is in talks with another TV station for a new show, which
will reflect where she is in her life today. “It was such an amazing experience. I got to travel, try all the food, see how all the traditional things are made,” she says of A la Chef. “Now I’m ready for something that is more me, closer to home, more reality, like maybe using my own kitchen to cook. “Before, it was about getting to know me. Now they know me, and I want to show a more personal side to things. I want to make it really casual and a bit more intimate.” Her multicultural background and proficiency in English are bringing even bigger opportunities. She excitedly tells of signing up with the marketing arm of the Trump Organization in the United States. She has not met the Big Don himself, but did meet his son, who got his father’s stamp of approval for the tie-up. She cannot reveal everything about their projects, but they are working on a program for an American audience that draws on her appeal as an Asian celebrity with interests in food, travel and fashion. “I’m very proud,” Farah says. “I think one of the reasons that they were interested in me was because I feel completely at home in the US.” Meanwhile, Armand is growing up fast. She tells of how he shot up several inches during a recent visit with his paternal grandparents in Montana (of rumors about the state of her marriage to Carson Quinn, all Farah says is, “He is always my best friend.”) Farah is admittedly ambitious. She has many projects in mind, including a home product range, but realizes she needs to do things one at a time. “I will want something, and imagine getting it, think it over it my mind, and eventually it happens. I am very determined that way,” she said. “There is only a certain window of time for you to do things, I know that, so I want to do as much as I can.” America awaits, and there are sexy chefs ready to step into her apron. But even if she does make the move to the States, she will not be forsaking Indonesia. “This is my homeland and this is also where the money is. There are so many opportunities to be had here. I definitely will be coming back, whatever happens.”
JPLUS October 27, 2013
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well BEING
Quick Fixers SIX PRACTICAL GROOMING PRODUCTS FOR HIM AND HER WHEN ON THE ROAD.
FEMME
NEUTRAL PARTY
Dove Whitening Original Roll-on is a must for practical and beauty-conscious female travelers. With its clean, soapy smell and dry antiperspirant essence; no need to worry about unsightly wet underarms. Cheap, effective and reliable – what more could a girl ask for?
SMOG FREE
This may be the quickest fix for the filthiest, smoggiest city. Cleanse tired skin with warm water, and soak your face in this hydrating lotion. It is not overly perfumed, which makes it ideal for overnight use. You’ll wake up with fresh and soft skin the next morning.
WATER WORKS
HOMME CLEAN SLATE
Unless you really want your dry facial skin to smell like honeysuckle, never use perfume-laced hotel soaps on your face. Include Dermalogica Daily Resurfacer sachets in your grooming kit, and you should be safe. The practical face wipes instantly resurface and brighten tired and dehydrated skin.
The Body Shop Vitamin E Face Mist is a quick, pick-me up freshener for tired facial skin. Apart from its refreshing effect, the rosewater-scented spray is a perfect make-up base, softening your skin and blending foundation evenly. Spritz it on for instant refreshment and apply the foundation just before landing and off you go.
Know Your Game!
FEELING ACHY AFTER YOUR LAST WORKOUT? GET YOURSELF CHECKED OUT.
ROLL WITH THE PUNCHES
The combination of nerves, long flights and sunny destinations mean you’re going to be drenched in sweat througout your holiday. Your trusty companion is Clarins Men Antiperspirant Deo, a non-alcholic roll-on that promises dry, irritation-free underarms even in the most humid weather.
SAFE FLIGHT
Cabin air can seriously dry your skin and lips. Leave it to L’Oreal Men Expert Hydra Energetic Turbo Booster to keep your skin perfectly moisturized. Its intensive formula effectively penetrates pores to keep your skin hydrated. And thanks to its sleek shape, squeezing it in your carry-on is easy.
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JPLUS October 27, 2013
DR. LIM LIAN ARN, an orthopedic surgeon at Gleneagles Hospital, said the most common sports injuries are usually injuries to the cartilage in the knee. There are two kinds of cartilage: the articular cartilage that lines the knee, and the menisci, two separate crescent shaped pieces of cartilage that lie within the knee. Both serve to cushion the movements of the knee, but high-impact sports can wear them down. The doctor names “weekend warriors” – people who were very active in their youth but neglected exercise when they reached their 20s and 30s – at particular risk for traumatic injuries from cumulative or stress injuries from repetitive strain over time. Problems arise when they return to the sports field and push themselves like they are still in their youth. The best way to prevent serious injuries is simple – listen to your body and your doctor. “If after a few days or a week of rest the body part still hurts, see a doctor and get professional advice,” says Dr. Lim. “See a doctor early if there is abnormal swelling, deformity or a sensation of instability in the injured part.”
Another clue that something may be wrong is if you hear or feel abnormal sounds or sensations from the area. Treatment varies, depending on the severity of the injury. Dr. Lim gathers information from the patient, examines the affected area and then does x-rays and MRI scans before formulating a treatment plan. For non-surgical treatments, the first step is to reduce the pain and swelling, before helping the patient regain movement and restore strength to the injured area. Treatment needs to be done in close supervision by doctors and physiotherapists, followed by sport-specific training with a trainer. Injuries that require surgery will take a little longer. Following surgery, the patient may undergo a rehabilitation program similar to that of non-surgical treatment, where the focus is on reducing pain and swelling and regaining movement and strength. The rehabilitation program should also be sport-specific. Many sports injuries can be easily prevented with good exercise habits, such as warming up before exercising. Dr. Lim also advises people to ensure they are in good health before starting a fitness program, and to have a full medical checkup if they are sedentary, are a smoker, have a history of chronic disease or are over 40.
Gleneagles Hospital, Singapore Patient Assistance Centre (Jakarta) Suite 908 Tamara Centre Jl. Jenderal Sudirman Kav.24 Jakarta 12920, Indonesia 24-Hour Helpline: (62) 811 942 720 Email: enquiry@parkway.co.id
taste BUD
Early Risers
BREAKFAST HAS WELL AND TRULY ARRIVED ON JAKARTA’S CULINARY LANDSCAPE. HERE ARE SOME GREAT OPTIONS. WORDS DITA AJANI & BRUCE EMOND
Hipster Haunt Monolog Quality Coffee Co. Plaza Senayan CP 101B Palm Gate Entrance Jl. Asia Afrika No. 8 South Jakarta (021) 572 5144
In A Nutshell: Monolog is where trendy urbanites hang out to see and be seen. The modern and airy café is sufficiently spacious for a large group yet intimate enough for a solo diner. The coffees are truly great, and the all-day breakfast menu is not to be missed. It’s already buzzing at 8 a.m. Now has a charming Pondok Indah Mall branch. Standouts: Open-faced smoked salmon bagel with cream cheese spread; Sunrise Breakfast Set (two any-style eggs, beef bockwurst, beef ham, garlic fried potato, sautéed mushrooms and whole wheat toast); Egg Norwegian with smoked salmon and dill hollandaise. Wash it down with the addictive hot hazelnut white mocha. Great cold pick-me-ups are the homemade gourmet lemonade or the pistachio matcha green tea. Breakfast starts at 7 a.m. daily.
Fit for a King Bengawan Restaurant
Keraton at The Plaza Jl. MH Thamrin Kav. 15 Central Jakarta (021) 5068 0000 In A Nutshell: At Bengawan, anyone can indulge in a breakfast banquet for princes and potentates – this is a wide-ranging premium breakfast buffet, with an international selection, a fresh sashimi counter and free flow of all non-alcoholic drinks. All for Rp 225,000 ++ Standouts: Breakfast steak with sautéed potatoes in truffle oil; Traditional poached eggs Benedict with toasted English muffin, turkey ham or smoked salmon and hollandaise sauce; Griddle waffle with mixed berries and maple syrup. The authentic Indonesian breakfast buffet includes nasi uduk (coconut aromatic rice) or lontong (rice cakes) served with a variety of savory sides. Breakfast hours: 6 a.m. to 10 a.m. on weekdays, 6 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. on weekends.
Kopi Oey – Sabang Jl. H Agus Salim No. 16A Central Jakarta (021) 319 34438
In a Nutshell: The breakfast menu bursts with classic local favorites. On weekdays, you can also choose from three affordable breakfast sets (Rp 27,000 ++). The laidback ambiance, decorated as an early 20th century Peranakan Chinese-style coffeehouse, is perfect for those wanting to get settled before the long day ahead. Attentive and swift service rounds out the place’s charm.
Power Powwow Loewe
Oakwood Premier Cozmo Jl. Lingkar Mega Kuningan E 42 No. 1 (021) 2554 2378 In a Nutshell: The cool watering hole of the beautiful people by night – take a number, please – is a relaxed, bistrostyle eatery by day. With its prime location in Mega Kuningan, it is the ideal location for breakfast business wheeling and dealing. Standouts: Sink your teeth into the groaning English-style breakfast – eggs, sausages, the whole cholesterol-boosting caboodle – the more-ish eggs Benedict, a more sedate continental choice of assorted breads and jams, or Asian treats of porridge and fried rice.
Taste of Tradition
Breakfast hours: 7:30 a.m. to 11 a.m. weekdays
Standouts: Sego ireng (rice cooked with black kluwak seeds served with sweet fried chicken, omelet, sautéed coconut and homemade chili sauce); Boeboer ajam Tangerang (rice porridge with chicken topping); Roti bakar kedjoe srikaya (toast with cheese and sugar-apple jam). Coffee lovers, don’t miss its locally grown Robusta coffee. Have a cup of koffie soesoe Indotjina panas (hot Indochina coffee with sweetened milk). If tea is your tipple, try teh djahe Salatiga (hot ginger tea). Breakfast hours: 7 a.m. to 11 a.m. daily, including public holidays.
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wanderLUST
MESMERIZING
Myanmar
MYANMAR IS NO LONGER A MYSTERIOUS HERMIT NATION. AMONG ITS MAIN ATTRACTIONS ARE THE TEMPLES OF BAGAN. WORDS & PHOTOS FRANSISKA ANGGRAINI
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JPLUS October 27, 2013
I
can thank Luc Besson’s The Lady for taking me to Myanmar. I watched it twice; after the second viewing, I had my tickets to Yangon. Many worried friends queried my choice of Myanmar with a stream of SMSs following my 10-day, mobile phonefree trip (bliss!). Hadn’t I been afraid to venture into this nation with its possibility of civil unrest? Not at all. Beginning with the welcoming immigration officer at Yangon airport, it was a great trip. Myanmar cannot be compared to its immediate neighbors and their more sophisticated charms. In addition to its countless stunning temples, which I would see in Bagan, its real attractions are rustic experiences with some of the world’s friendliest and most generous people. In the Golden Land of Myanmar, people still wear traditional dress: both men and women are clad in longyis (Burmese sarong) with their teeth stained red from betel nut. For Indonesians, Myanmar’s former capital and biggest city is comparable to Bogor back in the 1980s: lots of parks and trees. There is no nightlife to speak of because everything closes at 9 p.m. and there are restrictions on going out after 10 p.m. The “bars” are local tea shops selling beer and cheap whiskey. My real destination was Bagan, the famous archaeological site of more than 2,200 temples and pagodas located on the banks of the Ayeyarwady River in Mandalay province. Many travelers warn the roads are almost impassable and that it is best to fly. I took the bus anyway, and found the “bad roads” to be about the same as the roads I pass every day in Jakarta. Bagan is divided into three regions: Old Bagan, the site of many 11th century redbrick temples; New Bagan, to where local populations were relocated in the effort to preserve the ancient structures; and modern Nyaung U, where the airport is. Fifty-five kings ruled Bagan over 12 centuries. The powerful kingdom left the dry plains dotted with as many as 4,400 temples built between the 11th and 13th centuries. Unfortunately, UNESCO has not included Bagan on its world heritage site list because of the sloppy rebuilding of the original temples after the massive earthquake in 1975.
wanderLUST
“Solid, tall and perched on natural sea rocks, Dubrovnik‘s fortress boasts impressive moats and four magnificent city gates in limestone” It is possible to see all the remaining 2,200 temples if only from a distance. The oldest and probably most photographed temple, Ananda Pahto, was built in 1090 and has four Buddha statues facing the cardinal directions. At the tallest temple, Thatbyinnyu Phaya, built around 1144, visitors climb the stairs for a surreal, breathtaking view. Bagan is best explored by bicycle, available for rent from most hotels. There are also hot air balloon rides every sunrise between October and March, when the weather is at its best. At US$310 per person it isn’t cheap, but it’s worth it! Full of Surprises Myanmar’s appeal is truly about its friendly people. On my second day, I was walking toward a temple when a woman started yelling at me in Burmese. When she realized I was not a local, she warned me in English about snakes and landmines. She then invited me to her small shop. “It’s very hot today, you’d better cover your face with thanaka!” she said of the yellowish paste made from ground bark that local women have been using as a natural sunscreen for thousands of years. “You really look like you are from Myanmar now!” she said after smearing my face and arms with thanaka. I asked her if she could teach me how to
Burmese Briefs
Getting there: You can fly from Jakarta to Yangon via Kuala Lumpur (www.airasia.com) or Singapore (www.silkair.com). From Yangon, you can get to Bagan on an overnight bus (US$20) or take one of the daily flights (Air Mandala, Air Bagan, Air KBZ, Air Yangon).
Where to stay in Bagan Luxury: Tharabar Gate in Old Bagan (www.tharabargate.com) Mid-range: Blue Bird Hotel (www.bluebirdbagan.com) Budget: Kaday Aung in New Bagan (www.baganhotel.com) Before you go … Myanmar is a member of ASEAN but tourists of all nationalities must obtain a visitor’s visa at the embassy in their home country. Only those with business interests are granted a Visa on Arrival (VoA) at the airport. The visa costs Rp 200,000 and takes three working days to issue. Your passport must have at least six months’ validity. Travelers have to carry around a stack of kyat to survive (some hotels and airlines accept US dollars). Fortunately, Myanmar is among the safest countries in Southeast Asia. Bring only US dollar bills in mint condition and dated after 2006. Exchange US dollars at the official change offices or hotels/guesthouses in Yangon, which have the best rates. Avoid changing money on the black market. Flying is the most efficient means of getting around in Myanmar, especially if your time is limited. You can book tickets online, but you pay in cash at the airline office or to one of the major travel agents in Yangon. Many guidebooks advise travelers to pack a flashlight. It’s no joke; there are few streetlamps in cities, and blackouts are a daily occurrence.
cook one or two local dishes for a few tens of thousands of kyat. She agreed. She lives in a very modest house with her parents and two more families. We cooked pork and chicken curries with several side dishes. The side dishes took more time than the mains, because the
people eat their mains with vegetable salads, soup and sambal. They use a lot of tamarind, tomatoes, onions and garlic in their dishes. Dinner turned out to be the best meal I had in Myanmar. Before I left, the family gave me a packet of tamarind sweets for the road and a pair of velvet sandals to be worn with my longyi to complete the look. A visit to this frequently misunderstood country restored a great deal of my faith in humanity. I came to the country on my own, and left it knowing of a bunch of people I could call family.
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good LIVING
Breathing A JAKARTA COUPLE HAS FOUND THEIR GREEN, GREEN GRASS OF HOME ON JAKARTA’S OUTSKIRTS. WORDS & PHOTOS WILLY WILSON
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C
lean air and open space were at the top of the wish list when lawyer Hanif Nasution and his artist wife Zaira Adilla were sizing up their
dream house. “But you can’t possibly have that in the city,” says Hanif. “That’s why we moved to Cirendeu, a quiet suburb in the south of Jakarta.” In 2006, the couple found a 1,590 square meter plot of land in the area, but the asking price was beyond their budget. But then in 2008, another party bought half the land. Hanif and Zaira, who had for years alternated between living with their respective parents, had sufficient savings to purchase the 790 square meters offered to them. “We paid Rp 600 million for it. We could have bought a decent and fairly spacious apartment in the city for that, but we reckoned a cookie-cutter type of living space wouldn’t have been worth it,” says
SPACE Hanif, adding, “My wife and I knew that we wanted to move to the suburbs eventually. We wanted to be close to nature.” Based on a recommendation from a high school friend, Hanif commissioned architects Jeffry Sandy, also a former high school buddy, and Sukendro Priyogo of Nataneka Architecture to design his house. Room to Move The architects’ first request was that Hanif and Zaira make a list of the things they wanted. “We listed a big courtyard, a spacious carport and artful corners where my wife can display her artwork and a koi pond,” Hanif says. Four weeks later, the couple received the first draft of the design. The architectural team had drawn a two-story, l-shaped house, with a kitchen, a living and dining room and a guest room on the ground floor. Upstairs are two bedrooms and a study. The shape of the house was chosen to fit the site, says Sukendro, one of the architects.
“We didn’t want to remove the trees on the site,” he says. “So we built an l-shaped block around them.” The building itself covers only 204 square meters of the block, giving the couple the space they wanted. “We instantly fell in love with the first draft, which included a large courtyard as the center of the house,” Hanif says. Completed in November 2010, the couple’s house features reclaimed timber and epoxy-coated flooring. With steel and glass also featuring prominently, the design is a nod to minimalism. A perimeter wall of concrete – perforated with a geometric pattern – separates the house from the carport. “My wife and I love plants, so we asked for thick vines covering the carport,” says Hanif. Past the gate, a walkway leads to the main entrance. Hanif is particularly fond of the walkway made from salvaged railroad sleepers. It is flanked by a shallow pond on the left and more thick vines on the right. “The first thing you see upon entering
good LIVING
THE ARCHITECTURAL GRANDEUR OF THE HOUSE LIES IN THE SEAMLESS COMBINATION OF INDOOR AND OUTDOOR LIVING
the house is the living and dining area. I want people to feel at home when they visit my house,” explains Hanif. The living and dining area looks out onto a spacious courtyard. Sliding glass doors separate the interior and exterior spaces, allowing natural light into the house. The architectural grandeur of the house, Hanif believes, lies in the seamless combination of indoor and outdoor living. Hanif’s favorite part is an outdoor sitting area between the living and dining room and the guest room. Lightly furnished with a rattan chair, bean bags and one of Zaira’s artworks, this area has the best view of the courtyard. “The floor here is reclaimed teak from my wife’s former art studio. We used the same wood for the en-suite to the master bedroom,” says Hanif. Artistic Touches Sukendro points out that fitting furniture into the space was a priority from the get go.
“We knew exactly how the furniture, including the built-in fixtures, would fit the space,” says Sukendro, referring to the built-in cabinets concealed as walls in the living room, kitchen and bedroom. “The hidden cabinets are a smart solution for keeping our house free of clutter,” says Hanif. “I use the one in the living room as a storeroom to keep my bicycles. And I have turned the one in my bedroom into a study.” Hanif and Zaira furnished their house with classic designer chairs, most notably a custom-made sofa with a built-in bookshelf made by emerging Indonesian designer Alvin Tjitrowirjo. Zaira’s artwork is displayed throughout the house. A gorgeous and massive (6 m x 3 m) abstract painting sets a contemporary mood in the living and dining room. In addition, a beautiful painting by Yogyakarta artist Ibrahim greets guests at the entrance.
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culture VULTURE
Love
In And War
RUSSIAN PAINTER VLADIMIR TRETCHIKOFF WOUND UP IN WARTIME JAKARTA BY ACCIDENT, BUT IT WAS THERE HE MET THE INDONESIAN WOMAN TO WHOM HE OWED HIS SUCCESS.
Leonora was th The work was e model for Civilized Bali (1944). destroyed by vandals in 19 52.
WORDS BORIS GORELIK
The couple’s last meeting in South Africa in the 1990s.
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women could afford at that time. But what riveted me to the spot was her eyes, jet black and with pupils so big they looked like burning coals.” She spoke to him but he wasn’t able to utter a word. He was mesmerized. Leonora, or Lenka as he affectionately called her, was the model he was searching for, embodying “that intricate blend of the East and the West, the mixing of blood which produces the most beautiful of the world’s women”. And there was so much behind that beautiful face. Half Dutch, half Indonesian, Leonora Moltema spoke five languages. Her husband, a Dutch pilot, had been evacuated with other troops when the war broke out, and she had had no news of him since then. Leonora took up a man’s job, accounting, and became very good at it. She came to the artist’s studio to order a crayon portrait, and he did it gladly. But he wanted more. He wanted her to sit for his paintings. Always fascinated by the coexistence and inter-influence of European and Asian cultures, he wanted to tackle this subject in his art. He wasn’t afraid to take risks. One day he told Leonora that he wanted to paint her nude. And nudity was taboo in Java in those days. Leonora discussed his request with the wife of her boss, a Dutch lady, who said: “Rembrandt also painted nudes. So if you think Vladimir is such a good artist, by all means sit for him. His picture might be hanging in a museum someday.’ She sat for his Red Jacket, next to the Bible and a kris. A series of other paintings followed. In the end, the artist and the model – two lonely souls in the grim days of the war – fell in love. They moved in together. The Japanese encouraged local arts, and in many ways this was a very fruitful period for cultural exploration. Tretchikoff made friends with some of the future masters of Indonesian painting, including Basuki Abdullah and Lee Man Fong. He did a portrait of Emiria Soenassa, Indonesia’s first female oil painter. Basuki introduced Tretchikoff to his patron, Sukarno. The leader of the independence movement, a major art collector, wanted to purchase work by the Russian artist. But he refused to sell him any. He wanted to keep his canvases until the end of the war. “You don’t think like an artist,” said Sukarno. To which Tretchikoff responded: “That doesn’t mean I don’t paint like one.” Fame and Misfortune It was Leonora’s idea. She insisted that he should hold on to his pictures and organize an exhibition after the war.
.1943) Cockfighter (c
Malay Princess (Pr incess of Tidore, c.1 is a portrait of Em iria Soenassa, cons 944) idered to be Indonesia’s first female paint er.
Courtesy of The Tretchikoff Foundation
friend recently sent me an obituary from the Oct. 8 The Times of London. The headline read: “Leonora SchmidtSalomonson: Model for one of the world’s most commercially successful artists – and a key participant in the prosecution of war crimes in the Far East”. Unlike most readers of The Times, who had probably never heard of this lady, I knew her story well. I wrote a book on the prosperous artist for whom she modeled, Vladimir Tretchikoff. If it wasn’t for Leonora, he wouldn’t have achieved what he did. They met in Jakarta under the Japanese occupation in late 1942. Tretchikoff was an aspiring Russian painter, doing art in the mornings and making a living with commissioned portraits in the afternoons. Before the war, he had carved out a brilliant career for himself in Singapore. Working in advertising, he became one of the highest-paid artists in Southeast Asia. And he secretly designed anti-Axis propaganda for the British. In the final days before the surrender of the city, he was evacuated. A Japanese cruiser sank their ship in the open sea having given the passengers an hour to disembark. They rowed for over 20 days and reached Java. The locals handed them over to the Japanese, who had captured the island. Tretchikoff nearly died in prison but, as a stateless person, was eventually released on parole. One day, his friends introduced him to Leonora. “I was gazing into the eyes of the most striking girl I had seen in Java,” recollected the artist. “She was Eurasian, about my height, with fine black hair to her shoulders. Her dress was immaculate, a surprise for wartime Java, and I caught a whiff of perfume. That was a luxury very few
culture VULTURE
She even took him to a séance where the spirit predicted that the Russian would become famous across the world. Her unflinching belief in his success helped him to persevere. After the Japanese surrendered and the Allies took over Jakarta, Vladimir learned the whereabouts of his wife and daughter, who had been evacuated from Singapore a few days before him. They were now living in Cape Town, South Africa. He had to reunite with
Tretchikoff’s portrait of Leonora and a selfportrait from the height of their love affair.
er (c.1959) Balinese Danc
them. This was his arrangement with Leonora from the start. Meanwhile, Leonora had learned that her husband was alive. He had been interned in the Philippines and had decided not to return to her. She lost her husband and was about to lose Vladimir, after the three years they had spent together. With tears in her eyes, she saw him off at the airport as he boarded the plane holding a wooden crate with the paintings she had helped him to preserve. Leonora didn’t remain alone for
long. She met a British officer, her future fiancé, and became involved in identifying and tracking down of Japanese war criminals. Working with British war crimes investigators, she managed a processing system that sifted through 708,000 surrendered enemy personnel in Southeast Asia. According to her obituary in The Times, by the autumn of 1946, Leonora headed the central war crimes registry in Singapore. Then she moved to Britain with her fiancé, but soon they broke up. She settled in the Netherlands, like many other
PROFILE IN COURAGE TEATER KOMA will perform Ibu, adapted from Bertolt Brecht’s Mutter Courage und ihre Kinder (Mother Courage and Her Children). Set during strife in the 17th century, the play follows Ibu Brani, played by longtime stage actress Sari Madjid (Sampek Engtay). She finds business opportunities amid the devastation of war, but her perspective changes when her sons enlist in the army. Ibu, supported by Djarum Bakti Budaya Foundation, adapted by Nano Riantiarno and co-directed by Ohan Adiputra, will show at Taman Ismail Marzuki from Nov. 1-17, from Monday to Saturday at 7:30 p.m., and on Sundays at 1:30 p.m. Tickets can be purchased online at www.blibli.com.
WHAT IS something we buy, bury, burn and subsequently ignore? Trash. Academy Awardwinning actor Jeremy Irons, together with British filmmaker Candida Brady, traveled the world to expose beautiful destinations marred by pollution – from Jakarta’s very own infamous Ciliwung River choked with slow-moving detritus in which children bathe, seagulls in China landing on mounds of drooling plastic bags, to the Great Pacific Garbage Patch in the North Pacific. The Embassy of the Kingdom of Netherlands, in conjunction with the Kartika Soekarno Foundation, will screen the film’s Indonesian premiere at Dutch cultural center Erasmuis Huis at 5 p.m. on Nov. 11 as part of the opening of the documentary film festival ERASMUSINDOCS. The festival runs from Nov. 12-16.
THINK PINK PINK HAS been the color at center stage at Plaza Indonesia in October to honor breast cancer awareness month. In the drive to inform women and men that survival rates are vastly increased by early detection, the shopping center is holding a GO PINK campaign, which
Ria Juwita and Zamri Mamat
Gorelik is the author of Incredible Tretchikoff (Art/Books, London, 2013), the first complete biography of the artist. Want to win JPlus’ review copy of Incredible Tretchikoff ? Send a 30-word expression of your love for someone to bruce@thejakartapost.com.
Comings AND GOINGS
Watch, Look and Listen TRASH TALK
Eurasians from the former Dutch East Indies. She married a Dutchman, and together they founded a pharmaceutical company. At one point, their business was worth £100 million. Unfortunately, when she died at age 99 on Aug. 1, 2013, she had been swindled out of her fortune and was penniless. Tretchikoff became all Leonora hoped he would be and even more: one of the richest painters of the century. He toured South Africa, Canada, the US and UK with his exhibitions. He had over 200,000 visitors to his show in London. His most famous work, Chinese Girl, fetched nearly £1 million at a UK auction. They met only once or twice after the war. The last time she saw him was in the 1990s, when she visited Cape Town. They were both in their mid-eighties. Until the end of his life, Vladimir hung on to what he called his “lucky painting”. It adorned his dining-room wall: a portrait of Leonora in her red Parisian jacket, young and seductive as ever.
includes a photo exhibition, “Accessories Mania” installation, talk show and charity auction. Themed “white”, “black” and “PINK”, the photo exhibition depicts 47 public figures – from actors, models and photographers to successful career men and women, entrepreneurs, presenters and socialites – each of them wearing pink in some form. Shoppers can also show their support for the campaign by buying a pink ribbon keychain for Rp20,000 at the concierge. + Kindra Cooper
Maharani Djody Subandhi
Wulan Guritno
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‘I WOULD CHANGE MY PERFECTIONISM IF I COULD’ Me, in three words … Serious, perfectionist, fun.
Illustration: Felicita Goentoro
My best trait … Attention to detail.
Didiet Maulana began his clothing line Ikat Indonesia only two years ago, but the former marketing executive makes personal branding look effortless. His focus on transforming traditional ikat into dramatic multilayered evening gowns, gemencrusted cocktail dresses and also casual wear has earned him acclaim (he was commissioned to design outfits for ministers at the 2013 APEC Summit with just two months’ notice and no measurements!). The selfconfessed perfectionist is adamant about sharpening his acumen before venturing forth as an ambassador for Indonesian textiles on the international stage.
talk of THE TOWN
And worst… Too much attention to detail [laughs]. When dresses are already in the boutique I can send them back to the workshop over and over again because it’s so hard to please me. My guilty pleasure … I love to eat, to go on culinary journeys. For me a happy tummy means happy everything – it can make my day. What I love about Indonesian culture … Everything – fashion, cuisine, tourism. And in Indonesia, everything is a celebration. If I could change one thing about myself it would be … My perfectionism. Sometimes you have to lower your standards, take a breath and enjoy life. I think money is important for … Traveling. From a good trip you get so much
inspiration; with inspiration you can create a good product which means good money.
Ten years ago, I wish I had known … How to solve problems.
My design inspiration is … A combination of all the things that indulge my senses.
My favorite city in the world … Budapest. It is beautiful, like Milan, [and] I love how they maintain the buildings – a combination of art and modernism and style.
What motivates me … People around me. Being an entrepreneur I have to take care of all these people in my team. The best advice anyone ever gave me … Be yourself, enjoy what you’re doing and be consistent and persistent. I had to leave my comfort zone when … I had a comfortable position [in marketing for a fashion retail company] and I had to leave and really put my strength and courage into being an entrepreneur. True craftsmanship is … The total human touch in creating something from raw materials into a masterpiece. Happiness is … A process, not a destination. I am proudest of … Doing what I love passionately.
Don’t ever call me … An expert. In ikat, the real artisans are the weavers, not the designers. [I have to] find the best silhouette for the raw material. That is my part. One talent I wish I had … To be a pilot. The personal quality I most admire … Integrity. Once you have it you can go anywhere you want. The key to success … Appreciate people, pay attention to details and always know what you want to do in the blueprint. Whatever you want to be, you have to know how to reach your goal. + Kindra Cooper
TRIPPING THE LIGHT ‘FUNTASTIC’ Monolog PIM 3 Launching Party
Anita Suparta, Monolog director & cofounder Evie Karsoho, Natalia Tjahja
Hipsters, socialites and media people mingled over cocktails and hors d’oeuvres to celebrate the opening of Monolog PIM 3 outlet. Spanning 350 square meters, the cozy cafe has an outdoor patio that overlooks the South Jakarta suburb.
Leanne Devereux & Deborah Iskandar Intania Fajar Corrigan, Chef Mangan & Joe Corrigan
Luke Mangan & Salt Grill Jakarta Executive Chef MJ Olguera
Aie Katarina & Yaya Sung Nashida Islam-Bonnier & Gladys Suwandhi
Salt Grill Cookbook Release Party An exclusive coterie of Jakarta’s F&B lovers recently celebrated the release of Luke Mangan’s new cookbook at the capital’s high point of Altitude restaurant. They also supped on an exclusive four-course meal whipped up by the renowned Australian chef.
Clara Priscilla & Merry Duch
Rianti Cartwright & friends
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Ria Sarwono & Carline Darjanto
Mr. & Mrs. Will Meyrick