Produced by Jake Garrad University of the West of England BA(Hons) Graphic Design Contributors SneakerGrandpa Sam Brandt Highsnobiety David Forland First published in 2018 by Jake Garrad Ltd. Fonts Sharp Grotesk Book, medium & semibold 25 + Calluna Regular
3
4
On March 26, 1987, Nike launched one of their most groundbreaking designs, the Nike Air Max 1. Known now to some as the Air Max 87 and to others as the Air Max 1, this was the first sneaker to feature a visible Air cushioning unit in the heel of the shoe.
5
6
History
8
Design
28
Collaborations
48
Evolution Of Air
66
Master
86
Tinker Hatfield Centre Georges Pompidou Air
Jewel Swoosh Mini Swoosh Nike’s First TV Ad, ‘Revolution’ Nike Print Ads
Words
11 16 22
30 32 34 40
102
7
8
9
10
History
Tinker Hatfield Vice President for Design and Special Projects
History
11
Probably the most well renowned designer in the histor y of Nike, Tinker Hat field is to thank for the creating of such a revolu tionar y shoe.
Original sketches by Tinker Hatfield.
12
History
Hatfield originally wanted to be an athlete, he competed in various pole vault events and won state championships while he was in high school. He was good enough that he was offered a full athletic scholarship at the university of Oregon where he met a man called Bill Bowerman. Bowerman was the university’s track coach. He used to have a little cobblers underneath the grand stands and use this to create shoes for the students to best improve their performance. Bowerman would constantly use the students as test subjects for running shoes and track spikes. At the state finals, Tinker fell from 17 feet and seriously damaged his ankle, he was told his career was over. After this, Bowerman said he wouldn’t give up on Tinker and would make him bespoke shoes for his as he noticed that he had a limp. This was one of the main things that Tinker said was a massive inspiration to him due to the skill of problem solving.
History
13
After this Tinker went to the school of architecture as he realised that he could draw whilst still helping Bowerman with the shoe designs. He was hired by Nike in 1981 as a corporate architect to design building on their campus in Oregon. After a big trade show that Tinker offered to help out with, Nike realised his potential and offered him the job as a shoe designer. His first big project was working on the air max campaign where they began placing gas in urethane air bags but Hatfield wanted the bags to be bigger and bigger until he decided to remove part of the mid-sole so it could be seen.
“ I began working on a renegade set of shoes that were not par t of a design brief or marketing drive, �
he explains. From this, the rest of the air max range was histor y.
After the success of air max, which continued to be a success, Tinker Hatfield worked on various projects for different athletes, most notably, Michael Jordan. He went on to design the Air Jordan 3, all the way through till 15, 20 and 23.
14
History
Original sketches by Tinker Hatfield.
16
The Pompidou Centre in Paris, France is deemed to be one of the main influences for creating this iconic silhouet te.
Shortly before the Air Max project started for Tinker, he visited France to the Centre Georges Pompidou which was designed by the architectural team of Richard Rogers and Renzo Piano, along with Gianfranco Franchini. The Pompidou centre is easily recognisable by its exterior stairs and brightly coloured piping and tubes which signify what they house. The building was originally unpopular with the public but had a love at second sight value to it. The building is interesting as all the aspects that are normally included on the inside were moved to the outside. This is everything from water pipes to structural beams. The building is home to National Museum of Modern Art and is internationally renowned for its 20th and 21st century art collections.
History
17
Tinker took inspiration from this and thought that the idea of having the internal workings on the outside was going to be the next stage for Nike. Hatfield believes that had he not seen the building he may never have suggested revealing the air pouch.
The idea of having a window cut out of the mid-sole, exposing the air bubble was not only a strange step that would create an intriguing aesthetic, but also allowed the urethane bubble to expand beyond the confinement of the mid-sole and allow for greater compression, which, in turn, gave greater cushioning. Before this Nike had been working on making the cushioning technology smaller and smaller in order to make it compact and be seen less but still have the same amount of comfort but with Hatfield completely challenging this caused a stir within Nike. Hatfield claimed that people were saying he had pushed it too far and that people we even trying to get him fired.
18
History
“ I thought let’s make the bag a
li t tle bi t wider, make sure i t’s stable, bu t then let’s go ahead and remove par t of the mid- sole so we can actually see i t . ”
History
19
Although today a majority of Nike sneakers feature full-length Air and impressively large Air cushioning Units, the Air Max 1 featured the biggest Air Unit of its time. Not only was the visible factor impressive, the performance aspects and cushion capabilities were unparalleled in 1987. According to Nike ads, it was three times bigger than the unit used in previous shoes. The original design for the Air Max series was what is now known as the Air Max Zero. At the time, the capabilities for producing the silhouette were limited and so the design had to be altered and simplified, which is why we have the Air Max 1. Strangely enough the Air Max Zero was released just under 30 years after the original Air max was released. When the Air Max 1 was released it was available in two colours, Red and Blue, these were also inspired from the Pompidou Centre as it makes use of the primary colours, mixed in with white and light grey. For this reason, when the Air Max Zero released in 2015 one of the original colours it came in was yellow, making up the third of the primary colours, to tie in with the original.
20
History
21
22
History
When Nike began as Blue Ribbon Spor ts in 1964 i t was all abou t innovation. The Waf fle Racer Bill Bowerman created in those first years pu t product focus on the athlete, creating sneakers that were first and foremost abou t per formance and in dialogue wi th the spor tsmen who wore them. Bu t in 1978 Nike introduced i ts largest innovation to date wi th the Air Tailwind. Bowerman and Phil Knight were investigating bet ter ways to have the shoes respond and they knew i t would come down to the sole. So instead of just pouring rubber into waf fle moulds in their ki tchen they incorporated air into the sole. The result was the Air program.
History
23
24
Marion Frank Rudy helped develop Air for Nike, shopping his technology all over time and Nike wasn’t the first place that he went with his invention. Everyone else turned him down until he knocked on The Swoosh’s doors, who let him in. (This is the opposite story of Adidas’ BOOST that was shopped to Nike first and rejected).
Marion ‘Franklin’ Rudy
Thanks to his years at NASA , Rudy figured ou t how to take dense gas and pump i t into a bubble that could be slot ted into the sole of a sneaker. Nike took Rudy on and pu t the first Air bag in the Tailwind.
History
25
From the outside, the Air Tailwind looks like any other running sneaker from the late 1970s, but hidden inside the off-white mid-sole is a pocket of air that extends most of the length of the shoe, providing bounce and response to the runner’s stride. It was a huge change and offered a unique experience at the height of running popularity. Customers grabbed pairs as quickly as they could be made, and the Tailwind family has survived to this day. “AIR” is so synonymous with Nike and Jordan that just those three letters (in the right font) open a whole world of cultural understanding. The “AIR” was about more than just a smoother ride, but about taking something that seemed impossible (“Bubbles? In the shoe?”) and turning it into a readily available product for a daily jog. It was magical.
26
History
The Tailwind pu t air in the sole, bu t Nike wanted to go fur ther. They wanted the sole to be even lighter, even more responsive. The only way that would happen is if they took ou t entire sections of the sole and replaced i t wi th nothing. Or, rather, more than nothing. They had to replace i t wi th “AIR�.
Nike Air Tailwind showing exposed air bubble.
History
27
28
29
Take what was once a glaring “Look at me” and replace i t wi th a more subtle queue of “Whether you know it or not, you’re going to notice me.”
30
Design
The Jewel Swoosh first debut’ed in 1997 on the Air Force 1. The crazy idea of making the swoosh smaller was the idea of designer Sean McConnell who was the designer of the Air Force 1 Mid. At the time, the concept of a Jewel swoosh may have seemed counter intuitive in so that taking the Nike shoes main feature away may have damaged Nike’s reputation, it indeed did the opposite. The idea behind it was to make it smaller, more refined and to add a level of class to the shoes. While the Air Force 1 Jewel was gaining popularity on the East Coast, the West Coast got their iconic Nike model with jewel Swooshes: the Cortez. The third most notable model to receive the Jewel Swoosh was the Air Max 1. Again appearing first in the late ’90s, the Air Max 1 Jewel was mostly released in Europe in a wide variety of colourways.
Design
31
32
The Mini Swoosh (1996) is an element that is also present and a slight al teration of the original. The mini swoosh was first used in 1996 and would, from then, go on to be one of the most sought after elements of the already iconic Air Max 1 silhouet te. The Mini swoosh was used on numerous collaborations throughou t the years and 9 times ou t of 10 would be used on more exclusive pairs.
Nike Air Max 1 Atmos ‘Safari’
Design
33
Nike’s First TV Ad, ‘Revolution’ Debut’ed in 1987
34
Design
The field of advertising is one that is predicated on signs and signifiers. Drawing on symbols and referent systems, meaning is created through a combination of cultural elements such as images and songs. Advertising powerhouse Wieden+Kennedy have been responsible for some of the most memorable Nike advertisements, with this 1987 ‘Revolution’ commercial being a vital element of Nike Air’s success. Rewind back to 1987 where a world reliant on the internet didn’t exist, the television was an invaluable source for getting the attention of viewers. Video advertisements are still just as important today for communicating a meaning and ideology to a target audience. Appropriation is advertising’s main tool of communicating a message and ‘Revolution’ was a master class in creating the kind of referent system that has helped Nike reach the level it has.
Design
35
The ‘Revolu tion’ adver tisement was directed by Peter Kagan, shot on Super 8 and created to communicate Nike’s democratic approach to spor ts and i ts products. The ad is weaved wi th many layers of appropriated images complimented wi th the energetic Beatle’s song, Revolu tion.
Nike’s first TV advert 1987
36
Design
We see quick edits shift from one shot to the next, with each image differing from the next but all of them sharing a common message: anyone can take part in sports. Amongst the inspiring notion of a sports revolution, Nike does a good job of making sure that viewers understand that an endeavour into sports isn’t easy but can be challenging and enjoyable. Various subtle hints towards hard work are evident throughout the ad with the end shot depicting a man working out and struggling, but with enjoyment too.
L ayered wi thin those appropriated images are shots of various Nike products, wi th a focus on the Air Max 1.
Equality is presented through the interchangeable images of celebrity athletes, amateur basketball players, the average everyday running enthusiast and even a small child. We see a balance of male, female, black, white, old and young (disabled athletes were later represented in an ad entitled ‘A Time Of Hope’) athletes presented in black and white footage, an extension of the idea of equality.
Design
37
The democratic ideals of the ad were emphasised by the choice of song, The Beatles’ ‘Revolution’, which is a raw guitar driven effort that encapsulated Nike’s spirit and culture. This advert is historical not only for Nike, but for The Beatles and advertising as a whole as it was the first time that The Beatles allowed any of their music to feature in an advert. Nike and Wieden + Kennedy’s appropriation technique is based on the brand knowing and appreciating that its audience is smart and culturally aware. Nike presents particular signs that welcome the viewer, allowing them to establish a mutual understanding and relationship.
John McEnroe
38
Design
Nike’s first TV advert 1987
The mes sage of ‘Revolu tion’ is a posi tive one and i t confronts us to overcome barriers, both social and personal. Finally, i t presented the idea that this spor ts ‘Revolu tion’ was acces sible through Nike’s products.
Design
39
Nike Ad 1987
40
Design
Nike Ad 1987
Design
41
42
43
Nike Ad 1987
44
Design
Nike Ad 1987
Design
45
Nike Ad 1987
46
Design
47
48
49
Nike x Atmos – Safari (2003)
50
Collaborations
Japanese retailer Atmos brought back the Air Max 1 and Air Safari in cohesion fifteen years after the two sneaker models debuted side-by-side; featuring a Safari print on the mudguard and ankle collar, a canvas twill material at the toe, a soft suede on the upper and heel, and a gum out-sole, the Atmos x Nike Air Max 1 ‘Safari’ boasted incredible quality in craftsmanship in an outstanding colourway that grasped ‘Safari’ undertones to a tee. One of the most prominent features of the Atmos x Nike Air Max 1 is the miniature swoosh on the outer toe of the forefoot, a detail seen in very few earlier Air Max 1 ‘Retro’ releases of the 2000’s as well as recent Patta collaborations. The Atmos x Nike Air Max 1 ‘Safari’ stands as one of the undeniable heavyweights of sneaker history
and is considered, by some, to be the greatest Air Max 1 ever.
Collaborations
51
Nike x Atmos – Viotech (2003)
52
Collaborations
Released in 2003 as a collaboration between Japanese sneaker retailer Atmos and Nike, the Viotech Air Max 1 is considered by most as one of the greatest sneakers of all time. It was once ranked as number 12 on the Complex “100 Best Sneakers of the Complex Decade” in 2012. What makes the Viotech Air Max 1 so great is a combination of things. First, Atmos had already proven itself as a collaborator on its Safari AM1 design. Second, the combination of earthy tones (officially, Khaki/ Viotech-Dark Mocha-Metallic Gold) across the upper along with the “Viotech” purple Swoosh and embroidered mini-Swoosh in Metallic Gold on the side of the toe, made it one of the most unique colourways ever created at the time. Not to mention the white panelling and surround behind the Swoosh, that was also rarely seen prior to that point. Last but not least, the limited production and hype, including a “friends and family” version that dropped 4 years later, makes this Air Max 1 legendary. Even without the hype, the uniqueness of the design and combination of subtle colours with accent “pop” colours makes the Atmos x Nike Air Max 1 “Viotech” a true classic.
Collaborations
53
Parra x Nike ‘Amsterdam’ (2005)
54
Collaborations
Dutch artist Parra first used the Air Max 1 as his canvas in 2005, releasing a Tier Zero all-time banger dubbed the “Amsterdam”. The burgundy, pink and baby blue tones worked together perfectly, and the insoles display a lady’s derrière in Parra’s signature illustrative styling. The Amsterdam is still one of the most coveted and expensive pairs of AM1s ever. Even rarer still is the friends and family pairs from this collab which featured Parra’s signature on the toe wrap.
Collaborations
55
Parra x Patta x Nike ‘Cherrywood’ (2010)
56
Collaborations
In 2009, Patta and Nike released a collection of four collaborations on the Nike Air Max 1 in celebration of Patta’s Fifth Anniversary, but the fifth pair, the must anticipated Patta x Parra x Nike Air Max One “Cherrywood” did not release until later on in March of 2010. Covered in burgundy suede with asymmetrical Nike swooshes of burgundy and blue chenille on the lateral and medial sides, respectively,
the Parra x Pat ta AM1 quickly became one of the most sought-af ter and coveted of all the designs to ever embody the original Air Max silhouet te.
Finished with a satin sock liner and tri-branded insoles, the Patta Air Max One was released in Amsterdam and only a very select number of Nike Sportswear retailers. Needless to say, the Patta x Parra x Nike Air Max 1 “Cherrywood” has remained a staple in the catalogue of great Air Max renditions and will continue to do so for many years to come.
Collaborations
57
Kid Robot x Nike (2005)
58
Collaborations
Originally releasing on February 11th, 2005 as an exclusive item to Barneys on Madison and 61st St. in New York City, the Air Max 1 ‘Kid Robot’ was the perfect mix of the playful Kid Robot charisma with the foreign supercar swag of the 1986 Maserati Quattroporte III Royale, and with the inspiration set in stone, Paul and Chad arrived at the flawless colourway of Black, Metallic Gold, and Hot Pink, with the Kid Robot mascot watching guard on the heel.
The Kid Robot Air Max 1 came boxed in a limited edition slide-out package accompanied by a Kid Robot figurine and one of five different blind sockliners packaged in Kid Robot’s signature foil bag. The sockliners were all distinct from one another, designed individually by five different artists (Gary Baseman, Dalek, David Horvath, Huck Gee, and Frank Kozik). In addition to the released version, an unreleased sample with metallic gold thread embroidery on the Kid Robot figurine on the heel was produced, as well as a Hyperstrike ‘Friends & Family’ version with a Hot Pink upper. This 2005 classic was Kid Robot’s sole partnership with Nike and continues to be one of the most sought after grails among Air Max fanatics worldwide, and with such a limited number in circulation the hunt will likely see no immediate end.
Collaborations
59
Patta x Nike ‘Chlorophyll’ (2009)
60
Collaborations
In 2009 Pat ta was celebrating their 5 year anniversar y wi th a round of collaborations, finishing up the year wi th a 5-pack from Nike. Two of the pairs were designed as a tribu te to Tinker Hat field and his original Air Max 1 colour mock-up. The first was a dark purple denim and the sec ond, shown here, was a Quickstrike pair dubbed the Chlorophyll. Wi th premium nubuck, canvas and denim, as well as a dope green colour way (Patta is based in Amsterdam) these kicks were designed to fi t in on the street . They also spor ted the mini swoosh on the toe box, a feature that makes any true AM1 fan swoon.
Collaborations
61
Ben Drury x Nike ‘Hold Tight’ (2006)
62
Collaborations
UK-based artist Ben Drury, who was world-renown for his extensive work in the music industry, composing the artwork for label Mo’Wax, first collaborated with Nike Sportswear in 2006 as part of the Tier Zero ‘Air U Breathe’ Pack, which featured the Air Max 1, Air Stab, and Air Max 360.
His Air Max 1 design was inspired by the pirate radio scene in London, featuring a 3M reflec tive mudguard wi th black premium leather and the distinguishing pulsar sti tch detailing on the heel as well as the custom insole, mimicking the strong signals of radio transmis sions – a common theme in all of Drur y’s work.
‘Hold Tight’ is derived from industry verbage when the words were barked out when something special was about to go down – whether it be an exhilarating ride at a theme park or a song from the radio. The Ben Drury x Nike Air Max 1 ‘Hold Tight’ also came accompanied with a matching t-shirt, bag, and Nike Windrunner jacket – all of which were distributed in limited quantities.
Collaborations
63
HUF x Nike - Hyperstrike (2004)
64
Collaborations
The debut of the HUF x Nike partnership was this memorable Air Max 1, which featured a Grey/Green colourway and Black/ Green laces; the version you see here is a Hyperstrike/Friends & Family version with just 24 pairs in circulation, and featured a number of distinguishing features from the released version with the stitched San Franciscan skyline, the perforated leather toe-box, and the custom baseball-inspired insole. Aside from the rare Hyperstrike version were a few scrapped samples that featured the same colour-blocking, but with orange and pink instead of the Dark Apple green seen here, both of which continue to circulate and turn heads whenever they surface.
Collaborations
65
66
67
In 1987, Nike Air was not a new proposition. Runners were already familiar with the benefits of the cushioning technology, which first appeared in the Nike Tailwind in 1978. But seeing is believing. Nike Air hit a high when it became more than a feeling. Nike designer Tinker Hatfield set out to make the breakthrough technology visible so runners could better understand its cushioning benefits. He created the Nike Air Max with Visible Air, which gave birth to a franchise that forever altered the course of sneakers.
The stor y of visible air didn’t begin wi th Hat field’s design. Rather, i t star ted when David Forland, Nike’s Director of Cushioning Innovation, joined the team in 1985.
68
Evolution Of Air
69
In many respects, Forland is the world’s foremost expert in visible air. He’s been focused on pushing the technology into unexplored new territories for the past 30 years. He’s also the first to admit that the road to Air Max had its share of obstacles. In the ‘80s, Forland constructed encapsulated Air-Sole prototypes by hand. He stumbled upon a critical moment in visible air history when he rotated the bag, placing the seams on the top and bottom instead of on the perimeter.
“At that exact moment the light bulb turned on. I buil t a new protot ype right there on the spot .”
70
Evolution Of Air
71
“Air-Sole uni ts were becoming thinner and thinner to make the manufacturing proces s easier. We wanted to get back to injecting more air in to the sole to achieve a strong cushioning sensation under the foot .” And thus, the first prototype of visible Nike Air technology was born, and the Nike Air Max 1 became the first shoe to showcase it. Prior to this breakthrough, Nike Air-Soles were getting thinner, not larger.
72
Evolution Of Air
In an effort to increase the sensory perception of walking on air, Forland quickly changed the approach.
“If you look at the histor y of Air Max, especially from 1987 to 1993, one of the main dif ferenc es among models was each version held a greater volume of air than the last one, and conversely the least amount of foam. Foam breaks down; air doesn’t .”
During the pursuit of increased air volume, Forland had another ‘aha’ moment. Eliminating the foam between the outsole and the Air-Sole unit might create space for increased Air-Sole volume. With that idea came the Nike Air Max 180, the first shoe to feature a 180-degree visible Air-Sole — which was no easy task for Forland.
Evolution Of Air
73
“The idea was much easier said than done. The Air Max 180 was one of the most dif ficul t Air Max sneakers to create.”
74
Evolution Of Air
At that point, the Air Max 1, Air Max 180 and Air Max 90 all featured Air-Sole units in the forefoot that were encapsulated in foam. As the quest for a fully foamless running sneaker continued, the team made a monumental discovery: a new Air-Sole construction method called blow moulding. First used on the Nike Air Max 93, this technique allowed for the creation of Air-Soles in 3-D shapes that didn’t depend on air pressure. Now, Air-Soles could be crafted to fit the curvature of the shoe’s forefoot. Taking full advantage of the innovation, the Nike Air Max 95, which consisted of two separate blow-moulded Air-Sole units, was the first manifestation of visible air in the forefoot.
Evolution Of Air
75
In 1997, Nike designers and developers cracked the code on how to create a fulllength Air-Sole, making a monumental leap forward toward the goal of a fully foamless Air Max. The first step was to construct an interconnected heel and forefoot unit. The next task was to figure out how to hold the molten film long enough to close a full-length 3-D mold around it. Many prototypes and one bullet train later, the Air Max 97 came into existence.
Af ter unlocking full-leng th air, ideas around air seemed endles s.
76
Evolution Of Air
77
78
Nike began to focus on other forms of cushioning, one of which was Tuned Air. This innovative play on air cushioning first debuted on the 1999 Nike Air Max Plus and used physical structures to augment the stability of Nike Max Air cushioning. The next advancement came with the Air Max 360 in 2006, which finally attained the goal of a foamless shoe — nearly 20 years after the first Air Max. To create the Air Max 360, Forland’s team utilized Caged Air technology instead of foam as the stabilizer.
Evolution Of Air
79
The all-air accomplishment did not mark the end of Air Max evolution. Forland’s team had fulfilled its mission, but they could not resist the question of how to further improve the franchise. Forland and the team shifted focus from eliminating foam to increasing flexibility. Utilizing tubular construction, they built deep flex grooves into the Air-Soles of the Nike Air Max 2015, resulting in the most flexible Max Air cushioning platform ever.
Af ter the long journey, Forland learned that innovation doesn’t come wi thou t risk.
80
Evolution Of Air
81
82
“I remember the first blowmoulded Air-Sole uni t . We worked so hard on that and had no idea if people would embrace i t . I was at an airpor t right around the time the first Air Max sneaker launched. I was calling a tech in the lab when someone walked by wearing a pair. I stared at him from the phone booth and said, ‘Somebody bought them. I see the Air-Sole going up and down.’ It was a big risk, bu t big ger reward. For the Air Max family, i t’s only up from here.”
Evolution Of Air
83
84
85
86
87
88
The lineage of the Air Max 1 is as rich as any of the other ground breaking stars in Nike’s storied catalogue. Thinking about how the Air Max 1 redefined not just the design of contemporary sneakers but Nike’s own commitment to technology and innovation, perhaps the Air Max 1 occupies even more rarefied air. But while Nike’s own design teams (including sneaker deity and father of Air Max himself, Tinker Hatfield) are the ones bringing life to the game-changing ideas emerging out of the Beaverton campus, there’s something to be said about the not-so-secret society that has so thoroughly embraced, enhanced, and energized Nike’s designs, especially the Air Max 1. The input from Nike’s community of fanatics, retailers, and collectors hasn’t simply helped influence new Air Max 1 colourways.
Rather, i t’s the communi t y that has directly inspired some of the most impor tant and lusted af ter releases from acros s Nike’s archive of Air Max.
Master
89
In an homage to those who have helped pave the way for the Air Max 1’s continued succes s, and the hype that still surrounds many of the silhouet te’s most visually stimulating i terations to this day, Nike continues i ts Air Max Day celebration wi th the Air Max 1 “Master.”
90
Master
The Air Max 1 “Master” is a lot to take in at first glance (taking in over 30 decades of collaboration isn’t something you can do lightly). A literal fusion of several Air Max 1 retoolings and aesthetic redesigns, it draws natural comparisons to Nike’s “What The” mash up releases. The combination of a variety of different Air Max 1 editions—including the OG Air Max 1 in University Red, the perforated upper from 2005’s Kidrobot x Air Max collaboration, the Atmos Air Max 1 “Safari” “Animal Camo” and “Viotech” models, and the Patta x Air Max 1 “Chlorophyll” —isn’t simply a look back at certain notable drops; the mashed up “Master” is also an examination of the unique identities that have helped keep the Air Max 1 at the top of sneaker conversations since 1987.
Master
91
Don’t get it twisted: enthusiasts aren’t just antisocial guys trading in online shopping tips and sneaker survival stories over the Internet. Rather, enthusiasts encompass the designers, retailers and fans that have helped evolve and innovate on both the base features and the story of the OG Air Max 1. For radical Air Max reworks, take 2006’s “Kiss of Death” Air Max 1 NL partnership with Hong Kong-based CLOT. Virtually redesigning the silhouette from the ground up, the “East-meets-West” deconstructed design removed the sock liner and added the model’s iconic transparent toe box—one of only three Nike designs to boast such a detail at the time.
92
Master
For stor y, i t’s hard to top the my thical Parra x Air Max 1 “Alber t Heijn” model from 2005.
While well-known Dutch artist Piet Parra was working on his “Amsterdam” Air Max 1, he originally designed an Air Max 1 inspired by major Dutch supermarket chain Albert Heijn. When the store rebranded and changed its colour scheme before the shoe hit shelves, Nike scrapped the orange and blue design altogether. Parra ultimately crafted his hometown-inspired shoe with a burgundy, pink and blue colourway as a nod to the city’s famous Red Light District, but the “Albert Heijn” colourway remains as literally one of the rarest sneakers in existence. Passed only to “friends and family”, there are just 24 pairs of this practically priceless Air Max artefact in the wild.
94
Master
Master
95
When i t comes to the Air Max 1 “Master ”, both the “Kis s of Death” and “Alber t Heijn” are just the tip of the iceberg. Wi th several other legendar y grails present and accounted for as well, this 30th anniversar y model is a one- shoe-reminder of the tentpole drops in Air Max 1 histor y, stoked by urban legends and oral histories that the communi t y i tself has pas sed on through the decades.
96
Master
Master
97
98
Master
2016’s Air Max Day festivities saw the release of Masters of Air, Vol. 1, a look at the global group of collectors and enthusiasts that eat, sleep, and breathe all things Air Max. While each has an entirely individual tale behind their long-term love affair with Air, the fact that a single shoe can unite such a diverse roster of influencers and creatives is no small detail.
Tinker ’s timeles s design has proven to be, not just a canvas for collaboration, bu t a sentimental reminder of each wearer ’s own life experiences. From the weather ou tside on release day, to skipping dinner in order to af ford a pair, each sneaker carries i ts own, individual life stor y.
Master
99
This recipe of combining forward-facing tech and wrapping it in an infinitely customizable design that shows the shoe’s unique attributes has helped the Air Max 1—and its near-ceaseless library of designs—earn cult status among sneakerheads and non-sneakerheads alike. As the first in a long line, the Air Max 1 fulfilled its duty to set the groundwork for further experimentation and metamorphosis, cementing Air Max as a dynasty. But there’s a reason that many find themselves returning to the 1. In Masters of Air, Vol. 1., a “Master” is defined as “a passionate ambassador of Air Max culture; a connoisseur of leather, mesh, nylon and above all else, Visible Air.” Putting that mentality into the lens of the all-new Air Max 1 “Master”, it’s a reminder that every retailer, every fan, every collaborator, every wearer of Air Max adds their name to the ceaseless tale of Air Max culture. But, if all that seems just a touch too abstract, let Hatfield explain it:
“‘L isten, this isn’t abou t me, or even Nike. The product isn’t something you wear, i t’s something that you live.”
100
Master
101
Patrick Dempsey @SneakerGrandpa
102
Words
Nike and its Swoosh are so ubiquitous today that it is hard to imagine a time when they were not around. The early 1980’s had seen the company grow globally and it began its dominance in athletic footwear and apparel. Air technology had put Nike at the forefront of technology in sneakers, but at the time we had to just trust that the air was inside that mid-sole. That all changed in 1987 with the introduction of the Air Max 1 running shoe. Designed by an architect who had been hired to create office space on the Nike campus, the shoe featured the first exposed air window showcasing the clear bag inside. Drenched in bright red and white with grey accents the Air Max was part of a larger campaign touting Nike’s “Revolution” - down to commercials using the Beatles’ song of the same name. On television, we saw cut shots of athletes running, jumping and hooping, interspersed with film of Michael Jordan and John McEnroe (sporting the Air Trainer 1, another classic shoe).
Sneakers had begun to move beyond their utilitarian sports equipment role and were now about fashion and attitude. These were not your parents’ shoes.
Words
103
As a 12 or 13 year old kid at the time I was mesmerized. While I couldn’t always have the shoes I was seeing on TV and in magazines it didn’t mean I didn’t buy into the culture of sneakers and athletes as influencers. The Air Jordan 1 had really gotten me hooked, but the Air Max 1 was right up there with the cool factor. Before we knew it, almost every major Nike shoe had an air window. By the time the Air Max 90 rolled out Nike had really taken the athletic world over. The Air Max line continued to grow, as did the size of the air window. From the 180 up to the 360 eventually, we all got to witness more and more of the interworking of the mid-sole. Nike has continued to retro the 1 and it consistently sells out. Along with the Jordan 1 I would consider it a cornerstone of the Nike legacy.
104
Words
105
As a fan of sneakers I feel lucky to have grown up during a time when all of this happened. I can’t deny the influence the Air Max 1 had on the industry as a whole, and on myself especially. I hope Nike continue to retro the Air Max 1 because I will continue to buy a pair whenever they do. Technology may have passed it by, but the nostalgia won’t go away any time soon.
106
Words
Words
107
Sam Brandt @Hoekon
108
Words
Over the years many people have asked me the age old questions ‘what’s your favourite sneaker of all time?’ And ‘what shoe got you into collecting?’ Expecting me to have to stroke my chin and think deeply about such an important question. But more often than not I reply before the final words have left their lips. Easy, The Air Max 1.
Words
109
In 1987, Nike introduced the Nike Air Max 1, it was the first production shoe with the groundbreaking technology on display for all to see. And Tinker Hatfield was the man behind it. Air cushioning was nothing new at Nike but up until now had been hidden away from view sealed away from the masses in its foamy tomb. However Tinker Hatfield was about to change that and sneaker history forever. He took a maverick piece of Parisian architecture as inspiration and in doing so decided to cut away at the surrounding foam mid-sole to reveal the Air-Sole unit that lied beneath. From then on, everything changed. I can still remember the feeling I got spotting the advert in a magazine for the first time. Me and my closest friend were into basketball and knew of Nike because of the exposure with a new kid on the block, Michael Jordan. I loved the Jordan 1 and we couldn’t get enough. We were flicking through a copy of sports illustrated listening to Eric B & Rakim - Paid In Full on tape (which I’d snuck Home from my friends older brother in school) and chatting
when I turned the page and BOOM!! Staring at me was and advert for a Nike shoe with a glowing bubble in the sole and looked like nothing I’d never seen before!
110
Words
Words
111
112
Words
It was mesmerising, what was it? How was this possible? I realised there this was the coolest thing I’d ever seen and was convinced from that moment on that I NEEDED these shoes. However it took me until 1989 to own a pair. 2 years of nagging, washing the car, paper rounds and saving every penny I could find. Finally they were mine! Sliding the lid off the box for the first time, smelling that fresh sneaker smell that even now still brings a smile to my face. They were works of art. The Nike Air Max 1 arrived as a outsider and a revolutionary, it wasn’t just a shoe. It was a piece of me! A statement! They were most comfortable and coolest looking shoes I’d ever seen and I was hooked. Putting that shoe on my foot for the first time was the day my whole world changed forever.
Words
113
114
115
116