Jalice aj grading&marking work

Page 1




Fabric Creation Fabric Swatch 1

Fabric

Width

Placement

Consumption

Supplier

Usage on Design

Wool

0.9m

The coat

67.07%

Dah Sun Company

The main material of the oversized coat which has enough weight to support the stand-up collar design

50%Viscose 50%Wool

Fabric Swatch 2

Dupioni Silk Fabric

(length: 9.5m)

5m

Skirt

90.62%

Kaufman Kona Cotton 100% cotton

Imported from the US Company

(length:0.93m)

100% silk

Fabric Swatch 3

D, G/F., 132 Ki lung Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Hong Kong.

https://www.fabric.com /buy/dl-979/dupionisilk-fabric-white

3.7m

Top

78.35%

Imported from the US Company

(length: 1m)

https://www.fabric.com /buy/0363797/kaufmankona-cotton-57-white

The design of the skirt will be using the silk fabric which will be embroidered with beads

The blouse design will use this lightweight but skinfriendly fabric.


Pattern Creation Pattern Creation 1 3

1

Pattern Creation 2

2

Example: Printed on Fabric Swatch 1 or 2

2

Pattern Creation

1

Printed on Fabric Swatch 2

Example: Printed on Fabric Swatch 1 or 2

2


Pattern Development Process


Logo Design1

Logo development Process

Inspired from the pattern creation to make a logo design.

The logo design will be print on a button for the coat (Optional for the coat design)

Step 1 : Using Photoshop to transfer the picture into black and white. Then create the outline of the spiral. Supplier: Pacific Trimming (New York) Website of the supply: https://www.pacifictrimming.com/metal-button.html

Step 2 : Using Illustration to create a clear and suitable for print or engraving.


Logo Design2

Logo development Process

Inspired from the pattern creation to make a logo design.

The logo design will be print on a button for the coat (Optional for the coat design)

Supplier: Pacific Trimming (New York) Website of the supply: https://www.pacifictrimming.com/metal-button.html

Step 1: Using illustration to create the outline

Step 2: Adding a spiral inside the circle


Final Logo Design

Description Both of them are inspired from the pattern designs. We use a lot of curve lines and spirals to imitate the feeling of embracing. Placement Button for the coat


Production drawing of design 1 (The Oversized Coat)

Fabric Swatch 1 Wool


Pattern Grading Plan for design 1 (The Oversized Coat) Sizes for Grading: Size 8 Size10 Size12 Size14 Size16 Size

dx

dy

8

1

1

10

0.5

0.5

12

0

0

14

0.5

0.5

16

1

1

The grading points are named with numbers. The grading for X and Y-axis varies therefore it’s important to flip the numbers into negative in case.


Pattern Grading Plan for design 1 (The Oversized Coat)

The grading points for the front panel should be 9,10,11.


Pattern Grading for design 1 (The Oversized Coat)


Pattern Grading for design 1 (The Oversized Coat)


Marker Lay Planning for design 1 (The Oversized Coat)

Fabric Swatch 1 Wool


Size Chart (The Oversized Coat) SIZE

Every measurement is in “cm� and half side of body measurement based on the pattern layout

8

10

12

14

16

Back neck length

20.6

22.7

23.7

24.7

26.7

Right and Left Curve of front Collar length

38.1

39.2

39.8

40.4

41.6

Right and Left Curve of Front Panel (match with the collar curve length)

38.7

39.4

39.8

40.2

40.9

Outer Curve collar length

157.4

158.2

159.6

160.0

163.3

Half back panel (back neck curve with collar) *A

10.6

11.4

11.8

12.2

13.1

Half back neck curve collar *A

10.3

11.3

11.8

12.3

13.3

Nape to waist (Length of the coat of the back panel)

56.1

58.1

59.1

60.1

62.1

Half Wrist length

13.8

15.4

16.3

17.1

18.8


Undersleeve length

26.6

29.0

30.1

31.3

33.7

Upper Sleeve length

34.9

36.9

37.9

38.8

40.8

Half armscye curve length from the shoulder to the side seam on the back/front *B

35.2

37.2

38.2

39.2

41.2

Half armscye curve length from the shoulder to the side seam on the back (Back Panel) *B

35.2

37.2

38.2

39.2

41.3

Side seam length of Front panel

46.9

48.9

49.9

50.9

52.9

Side seam length of back panel

47.2

49.3

50.3

51.3

53.4

Front panel shoulder length

14.8

15.8

16.2

16.7

17.7

Back Panel shoulder length

14.6

15.7

16.3

16.9

18.0

Designed curved length of the front panel

60.8

61.9

62.5

63.1

64.2

The width of the front panel bottom curve

36.7

37.6

38.1

38.6

39.6


Size Matching Process *A explanation

A measurement proof for the matching between the Back Neck Collar and the Back Panel Neck Length


Size Matching Process *B explanation

(Back Panel)


Production drawing of design 2 (The Deep-V blouse)

Fabric Swatch 3 Kaufman Kona Cotton

Cotton Fabric, Light feel and very shearing design. The colour of the fabric can create a light layer in contrast to the wool coat.The deep-V collar can shape the curve of a woman’s upper part in a more sensual way. The design of the sleeve is gradually sized down for the convenience to wear inside a dolman sleeve of the coat.


Pattern Grading Plan for design 2 (The Top) Sizes for Grading: Size 8 Size10 Size12 Size14 Size16 Size

dx

dy

8

1

1

10

1

1

12

1

1

14

1

1

16

1

1


Pattern Grading for design 2 (The Top)


Marker Lay Planning for design 2 (The Top)

Fabric Swatch 3 Kaufman Kona Cotton


Size Chart (The Top)

Every measurement is in “cm”

SIZE

8

10

12

14

16

VARIATION

Nape to waist

22.2

22.7

23.2

23.7

24.2

0.5

Chest

73.0

75.0

77.0

79.0

81.0

2

Bust

84.1

86.1

88.1

90.1

92.1

2

Half X-back

16.7

17.2

17.7

18.2

18.7

0.5

Shoulder length

9.84

10.3

10.7

11.2

11.7

0.48

Upper Sleeve Length

44.8

45.8

46.8

47.8

48.8

1

Undersleeve Length

44.8

45.8

46.8

47.8

48.8

0.99

Underarm length

28.4

29.4

30.4

31.4

32.4

1

Wrist length

19.6

20.6

21.6

22.6

23.6

1


Production drawing of design 3 (The Skirt)

Fabric Swatch 2 Dupioni Silk Fabric


Pattern Grading Plan for design 3 (The Skirt) Sizes for Grading: Size 8 Size10 Size12 Size14 Size16

Fabric Swatch 2 Dupioni Silk Fabric

Size

dx

dy

8

1

0.5

10

1

0.5

12

0

0

14

1

0.5

16

1

0.5

The grading points are named with numbers. Only X-axis of points around the upper part were graded to change the width of skirt. Both X&Y-axis of points in the bottom part were graded in order to change the length and the total length of the skirt


Pattern Grading for design 3 (The Skirt)


Marker Lay Planning for design3 (The skirt) Fabric Swatch 2 Dupioni Silk Fabric


Size Chart (The skirt)

Every measurement is in “cm� and half side of body measurement based on the pattern layout

SIZE

8

10

12

14

16

VARIATION

Knee Length

50.7

51.7

52.7

53.7

54.7

1

Waist length

72.4

73.4

74.4

75.4

76.4

1

Hip length

100

101

102

103

104

1

Outside leg length

89.4

90.4

91.4

92.4

93.4

1

Knee length

33

34

35

36

37

1

Ankle

30

31

32

33

34

1


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