A hospitality training course almost fifty years ago ultimately led Mark Heath to a lifetime career in the wine industry.

Words by Chris West | Photos by Doug Pell

The previous property at The Gurdies produced the first wines to be sold under the Gippsland Wine Company label in 2010. From those relatively modest beginnings, the Gippsland Wine Company venture has steadily expanded to wider horizons.

Another vital contributor to Gippsland Wine Company’s success is award-winning winemaker Marcus Satchell of D3 Wines in Inverloch, who accommodates all the infrastructure for the processing component of the operation.

“Marcus and I have been collaborating since day one at The Gurdies, and technically, he is our winemaker. We have our own barrels and tanks, but all the processing is done at his premises,” Mark notes.

The expansion of Gippsland Wine Company has seen the operation spread over multiple sites across the region.

“In addition to our main vineyard at Loch, where our cellar door is located, we also have four other sites within a twenty-kilometre radius of here,” Mark explains.

However, Mark and Jane are planning for future expansion with the recent acquisition of twenty acres less than a kilometre away which has been dubbed the Lochonia Vineyard. Mark has always loved the names of the historic Irvine’s Wines Perthonia and Melbonia, so for him Lochonia seemed a natural progression!

“A new vineyard is not something that happens overnight,” Mark notes. “Even if we were to start planting at Lochonia this year, it would be five years before we see anything from there.”

In addition to the two properties in Loch, the Gippsland Wine Company operation also incorporates the nearby Jeetho Vineyard and two other establishments at Moyarra.

“The Moyarra Vineyards are on two separate sites, one on Prom Country Cheese’s property and the other is privately owned,” Mark says.

Other properties that also perform an important function within the wider operation are Rhyll Vineyard on Phillip Island, along with Calulu Vineyard, which is located in East Gippsland.

“They are all contract growers that supply fruit to us. We don’t run those particular vineyards, but they are an integral cog in our business,” Mark states.

Having been involved in the wine industry for more than forty years, Mark believes that Gippsland is a region still with considerable untapped potential and blessed with favourable natural attributes for wine growing.

“A lot of people don’t realise that we actually have a maritime climate. We’re only thirteen kilometres as the crow flies to Bass Strait,” Mark observes.

“Apart from the maritime influences, we also benefit from having good soil structure here. Different parts of the region have different types of soil. Leongatha has red soil, whereas we have grey, sandy loam soil here. The rainfall is also plentiful. One disadvantage is the summer humidity, but that can be successfully managed and overcome.”

Mark again highlights the parallels between Gippsland as a wine region today and the Yarra Valley of the 1980s when he was working there.

“The Yarra Valley started off with family operations like what is happening in Gippsland,” he comments.

“As the potential grew in the Yarra Valley, the big corporations came in. That hasn’t really happened in Gippsland yet, but I think it is inevitable that this region will become more corporatised in the future.”

Mark believes an early sign of such change was the sale of the Leongathabased Bass Phillip to a group of international investors with French and Asian ties in 2020.

However, for the present time he is heartened by the growth of smaller wine labels created by a new generation of growers and winemakers bringing strength and diversity to the Gippsland region.

Whether you favour an award-winning Pinot Noir, Chardonnay or Riesling, or perhaps a fine Cabernet Sauvignon or even the Gustoso (a blend of three varieties from three vineyards) which has a strong following, the Gippsland Wine Company’s collection offers something for everyone.

Wines showcasing the GWC label are easily accessible in the local region however for those further afield they can be found at some small independent city bottle shops or through the online shop at the www.gippslandwinecompany.com website. Many of their wines are on the wine lists of casual bistros, cosy wine bars, stylish restaurants and international hotels in Melbourne, Sydney and Adelaide.

“Locally, our wines are available at restaurants and cafes as far as Foster, Phillip Island and right up to Warragul,” Mark notes.

“The Michaels IGA supermarkets are also big supporters of the local wineries, and our wines are stocked in their two Leongatha stores and in Korumburra,” he adds.

But undoubtedly the best place to sample the Gippsland Wine Company collection is by visiting the Cellar Door at Loch Village Vineyard at 6835 South Gippsland Highway in Loch, which is open from Friday to Sunday between 11am and 5pm.

The Cellar Door setting is perfect for planned or impromptu tastings. Group tastings need to be arranged by appointment, but casual tastings by individuals and couples visiting the area are always welcome during opening hours. Tasting flights offer the choice of any four wines from the cellar door wine list.

With a glass in your hand, you’ll find that Mark will enjoy a chat about the wine, and he’ll tell you that this is the place to ask all the questions, whether you know a lot about wine or are worried that you know nothing. Mark might ask you what you’re having for dinner because for him, wine is for food and for sharing and for finding the right wine for each person or occasion. He might also tell you that wine can be pretentious, but this Cellar Door is anything but pretentious and certainly deserves its 5-star reviews.

Visitors can curate a delicious basket of cheese and accompaniments at the Loch Village Cellar Door and enjoy a table picnic outside under the shade sails or under cover of the verandah where there are heaters and blinds for the cooler months.

“We bake fresh bread in the mornings and have a large providore fridge which is stocked with charcuterie, pâtés and local cheeses. We supply the crockery and cutlery, and take care of the washing up afterwards,” Mark says.

Wines at the Cellar Door are available for purchase by the glass or bottle. Locally brewed craft beers, ciders and non-alcoholic beverages sourced from external suppliers, but which carry the GWC label are also available. Gippsland Wine Company also offers gift cards for purchase online or at the Cellar Door, which make the ideal present for any special occasion.

Mark has always been willing to lend his time and expertise to various initiatives that support the local wine industry. He has been a longtime member of the Wine Gippsland group and its predecessor in South Gippsland, promoting and participating in wine showcases and competitions. He completed a two-year stint as an Associate Judge at the annual Gippsland Wine Show which involves more than fifty Wine Gippsland members from as far as Lakes Entrance.

Mark has also been a pivotal contributor to the annual Loch Food & Wine Festival. This popular event, which is described as South Gippsland’s “foodie heaven” is now in its fourteenth year and Mark has been the Chairman of the organising committee for around half of that time.

This year’s festival is being held in the Loch Railway Station Reserve on Sunday, 11th June. Visitors will have the opportunity to sample the best local wines, beers and other great produce while also getting to meet the people behind these products.

Adding to the attraction and vibe of this celebration of everything that South Gippsland has to offer will be the presence of local restaurant popups, international food trucks and live music. Attending the festival also provides the perfect opportunity to explore the historic Loch village while you’re there.

Mark expects this year’s festival will be another great success.

“The COVID period knocked the event around a bit, but we’ve bounced back bigger and better than ever,” he says.

“This year we have probably our strongest contingent ever with sixty-one exhibitors putting their local produce on show.”

Looking ahead, Mark shows no signs of slowing up or retiring. He has been well served by his successful strategy of seeking out neglected vineyards for long term contracts and coaxing them back to life, connecting with other independent vignerons and nurturing his own vines. The recent acquisition of Lochonia Vineyard has importantly added to his growing capacity and future possibilities.

“Once we get Lochonia under way across the road, that position is exactly where we need to be,” he asserts.

“At the moment, we’re at a point where we sell out from vintage to vintage and in need of more fruit. I’m sixty-six years old now and a bit old school, but I enjoy what I do and am happy to keep working.”

Like the fine wines he produces, this experienced industry professional seems to be getting better with age.

Further details:

Gippsland Wine Company Pty Ltd 6835 South Gippsland Highway, Loch

Cellar Door open

Friday, Saturday and Sunday – 11am to 5pm. Closed Monday to Thursday to tend the vines! Bookings essential for group wine tastings.

Phone: 0477 555 235

Email: cellardoor@gippslandwinecompany.com

Website: www.gippslandwinecompany.com

Gippsland Wine Company acknowledges the traditional owners of their land, the Bunurong/ Boon Wurrung people.

Nothing but good vibes, good drinks and good food at Loch Wine Bar. Where everyone is a friend!

We have a large selection of Gippsland wine, craft beers and ciders to cater for all tastes and our Wood Fired Pizzas, freshly made by Andreas, are made with as much Gippsland produce as can be sourced.

Hours: (Seasonal – ring to confirm) Friday to Sunday - 12.00pm to late | Bookings essential 10 Smith Street Loch Vic 3945 | Tel: 0409 798 525 www.lochwinebar.com.au