Food 2016 by James Byles

SPECIAL FOOD ISSUE

DECEMBER 2016

2016â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s VERY BEST DISH OF THE YEAR BRUNCH ICE CREAM DINNER FOOD TRUCKS COCKTAILS DOUGHNUTS SEAFOOD & MORE

A stunning lobster ravioli on a terrace overlooking the Kennedy Center. A marvelously smoky Filipino stir-fry in a crammed Columbia Heights hot spot. Some of the most wondrous fried chicken we’ve ever tasted. The culinary pleasures this year— during which we visited 300-plus restaurants to bring you this list of our absolute favorite places to eat— came in many guises. Herewith, our (ranked!) appraisal of Washington’s most thrilling dining experiences.

BY TODD KLIMAN, ANN LIMPERT, ANNA SPIEGEL, AND CYNTHIA HACINLI

PHOTOGRAPHS BY SCOTT SUCHMAN LETTERING BY CHRIS BALLASIOTES

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The dining room at Fiola Mare, on the Georgetown waterfront.

BY TODD KLIMAN, ANN LIMPERT, ANNA SPIEGEL, AND CYNTHIA HACINLI

PHOTOGRAPHS BY SCOTT SUCHMAN LETTERING BY CHRIS BALLASIOTES

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The dining room at Fiola Mare, on the Georgetown waterfront.

FIOLA MARE

3050 K ST., NW; 202-628-0065 With Fabio Trabocchi’s ascent to the top spot on our list—almost a decade after he wowed us with the late Maestro—it seems an apt time to retire the standard description of Fiola Mare as Italian. It’s not. It’s Trabocchian. The chef, now in his forties, has evolved a style all his own, one informed by his food-rich upbringing in Italy’s Marche region but not beholden to it—a style that embraces influences from France, Japan, and America. No chef in our area is cooking with more subtlety or power or with more expressive range. Take his filet of poached cod, paired with puréed artichoke and chickpea crema—it’s a trio that feels both unexpected and inevitably right. Or his Japanese madai tartare, with its perfect embellishment of grapefruit and paddlefish roe. This is a luxury restaurant, and it’s extravagantly expensive. But the quality of the fish is extraordinary (on par with New York City’s Le Bernardin), and no restaurant in the area will spoil you more.

SHELL GAME: Fiola Mare’s bucatini with Catalina sea urchin, langoustine, and prawn.

DON’T MISS: OYSTERS WITH CAVIAR; HAMACHI SASHIMI; ARTICHOKE SOUP; FISHERMAN’S-STYLE DORADE; SPAGHETTI WITH CLAMS; SCIALATIELLI FRUTTI DI MARE; LOBSTER RAVIOLI; “UNDER THE SEA,” A SELECTION OF SHELLFISH IN BROTH; CHOCOLATE TERRINE WITH MINT; APPLE CROSTATA; BOMBOLONI. VERY EXPENSIVE.

WHAT’S EXPENSIVE? Based on the price of a dinner for two plus tax and 20-percent tip: VERY EXPENSIVE: $200 or more. EXPENSIVE: $121 to $199. MODERATE: $61 to $120. INEXPENSIVE: $60 or less.

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FIOLA MARE

SHELL GAME: Fiola Mare’s bucatini with Catalina sea urchin, langoustine, and prawn.

WHAT’S EXPENSIVE? Based on the price of a dinner for two plus tax and 20-percent tip: VERY EXPENSIVE: $200 or more. EXPENSIVE: $121 to $199. MODERATE: $61 to $120. INEXPENSIVE: $60 or less.

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DISH OF THE YEAR CEDRIC MAUPILLIER’S FRIED-CHICKEN COQ AU VIN AT CONVIVIAL THE IDEA: Maupillier

LITTLE SEROW

visited KoChix, the Korean fried-chicken joint in Bloomingdale: “I was walking home, and I had a piece—I love the texture, but . . . it’s like eating a dessert with a little bit of salt. I could make it better.”

1511 17TH ST., NW; NO PHONE; LITTLESEROW.COM If you’ve been to Johnny Monis and Anne Marler’s English basement turned Thai restaurant in the last couple of years, you’ll likely be familiar with many of the plates on the seven-dish family-style menu. But like a band deep into its tour, the set list has become tighter and the chords more masterful, even if the songs are well known. The fabled fieriness has been finely tuned, too. Rather than making diners beg for palate-soothing glasses of full-fat milk from the start, the spicing now slowly builds, crescendoes (with a sweat-inducing tofu salad), then abates with a plate of mild pork ribs marinated with Mekong whiskey and strewn with dill. The servers, all got up in oxford shoes and dresses that could be called schoolmarm-chic, possess a genuine warmth and excitement—they seem as in love with the place as we are.

KOMI

1509 17TH ST., NW; 202-332-9200 How a room of such quiet minimalism can feel so warm and embracing is among the dining scene’s enduring mysteries. But that’s Komi’s magic, no tricks required. The seeming effortlessness of the pacing is a credit to one of the region’s best staffs, a group of earnest folks expert in reading tables and moods, who don’t merely keep the water glasses filled but—corny as it sounds—endeavor to make memories. Johnny Monis’s cooking—nominally Mediterranean but drawing on a range of global influences—never fails to surprise, and not just because the absence of a menu keeps you from knowing what’s coming. The night starts with a procession of bites that eschew cleverness in favor of flavors that are pure and clear— none so memorable, perhaps, as a date stuffed with mascarpone and roasted until it takes on the umami richness of foie gras. From there, it’s on to hand-rolled pastas, then a lusty portion of, among others, crisp-skinned goat or baby pig, meant to summon a communal feast along the Mediterranean coast. Desserts, a weak link in the past, have improved and provide a fittingly glorious finish.

THE PREP: Boneless

thighs from young chickens (nice and tender) are soaked in a lemon-rosemary brine, then dredged in a floury paste that includes cornstarch and leftover bread crumbs. After that dries, the chicken is dipped again—a crucial step that helps it attain its ultracrisp exterior.

DON’T MISS: NAM PRIK WITH PORK RINDS; SNAKEHEAD DUMPLINGS WITH TOM KHA SOUP; MUSHROOMS WITH HOLY BASIL AND EGG; MINCED-CHICKEN-AND-LIVER SALAD; FRIED CHICKEN. EXPENSIVE.

THE FRYING: The kitchen

uses two fryers—a pressure fryer for the first turn, then a deep fryer.

THE SAUCE: Coq au vin is

a traditional Burgundian chicken stew—the redwine braise was a way to make tough, aging roosters edible. Maupillier sticks to Old World technique when making his coq au vin glaze. He stews older chickens with veal feet (to make the sauce a little gelatinous), red wine, and bacon, then lets the liquid reduce, reduce, reduce.

CONVIVIAL

801 O ST., NW; 202-525-2870 It’s not as if Cedric Maupillier were an unknown—his creativity and skill have been on vivid display at Mintwood Place for years—but with his first restaurant as both owner and chef, he’s a chef unleashed. A protégé of Michel Richard, Maupillier sometimes channels his mentor’s wit and precision: Witness his fried-chicken coq au vin, which combines the rustic depth of the French country staple with the supernal crunch of the Korean shop Bonchon. There’s reverence, too, for tradition, and the menu, more French than American, abounds in the kind of patiently developed flavors you might not find so easily in Paris these days. Maupillier’s ravioli is one example: filled with an earthy boudin noir and paired with both a chestnut purée and a mushroom fricassee. Like many dishes on the menu, it was conceived with wine in mind, the flavors intensifying further with a sip of Syrah or Bordeaux. Justin Guthrie’s list contains a number of good ones, and also some bargains. Convivial itself deserves credit for being such a value—it could easily charge more for cooking of this excitement and quality. That it chooses to be accessible just makes it that much more lovable.

DON’T MISS: TROUT ROE ON BRIOCHE; FOIE GRAS WITH CONCORD GRAPE; SOURDOUGH WITH ROOTVEGETABLE TARTARE; GREEK DUMPLINGS WITH CRAB; JAPANESE CHEESECAKE. VERY EXPENSIVE.

THE PLATE: Maupillier

places the glazed chicken atop peppery crushed potatoes and shallots, then garnishes it with the usual coq au vin veggies—carrots, button mushrooms, and pearl onions. “One blogger wrote that it reminded him of General Tso’s chicken but that he thinks of it as General Bonaparte chicken,” Maupillier says. “I like that.”

DON’T MISS: SARDINE TARTINE; LATKE WITH DRY-CURED LAMB; LEEKS DIJONNAISE; CURED ARCTIC CHAR; SCALLOP BOUDIN BLANC; KEY-LIME-AND-SPECULOOS PIE; STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING; “S’MORES.” MODERATE.

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DISH OF THE YEAR CEDRIC MAUPILLIER’S FRIED-CHICKEN COQ AU VIN AT CONVIVIAL THE IDEA: Maupillier

LITTLE SEROW

KOMI

THE PREP: Boneless

DON’T MISS: NAM PRIK WITH PORK RINDS; SNAKEHEAD DUMPLINGS WITH TOM KHA SOUP; MUSHROOMS WITH HOLY BASIL AND EGG; MINCED-CHICKEN-AND-LIVER SALAD; FRIED CHICKEN. EXPENSIVE.

THE FRYING: The kitchen

uses two fryers—a pressure fryer for the first turn, then a deep fryer.

THE SAUCE: Coq au vin is

CONVIVIAL

DON’T MISS: TROUT ROE ON BRIOCHE; FOIE GRAS WITH CONCORD GRAPE; SOURDOUGH WITH ROOTVEGETABLE TARTARE; GREEK DUMPLINGS WITH CRAB; JAPANESE CHEESECAKE. VERY EXPENSIVE.

THE PLATE: Maupillier

DON’T MISS: SARDINE TARTINE; LATKE WITH DRY-CURED LAMB; LEEKS DIJONNAISE; CURED ARCTIC CHAR; SCALLOP BOUDIN BLANC; KEY-LIME-AND-SPECULOOS PIE; STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING; “S’MORES.” MODERATE.

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Plume’s Christian Gaston readies the restaurant for dinner.

RASIKA AND RASIKA WEST END

PLUME

633 D ST., NW, 202-637-1222; 1190 NEW HAMPSHIRE AVE., NW, 202-466-2500

1200 16TH ST., NW; 202-448-2300

Restaurateur Ashok Bajaj and chef Vikram Sunderam have been repeatedly solicited to bring Rasika to New York and other dining-destination cities. Though Bajaj has no plans to expand outside of DC—he prefers to make daily rounds to his eight restaurants—it’s a testament to how special the Indian restaurant remains ten years into existence, not only in Washington but also on a national stage. Sunderam, who garnered his first James Beard Award in 2014 for best chef in the Mid-Atlantic, continues to helm the kitchens of the Penn Quarter original and younger West End sibling with a consistency and creativity that are rare. (Picking between the two is mostly a preference of neighborhood, though we’re partial to the original’s recently refreshed design.) His menu mixes traditional tandoori meats and curries with such inventive creations as snapper over creamy coconut noodles or braised lobster in a dough-encrusted vessel. Knowledgeable sommeliers are quick to recommend spice-friendly wines.

It’s not just the sumptuous elegance of the space that envelops you in a fantasy. It’s all the many appurtenances that reinforce the air of tasteful luxury—the upholstered stools for purses, the thick linen napkins, the silver domes to keep plates hot, the elaborate amuse-bouche to start, the petits fours to finish. The cooking, under the direction of Ralf Schlegel, avoids the pothole that fine dining at the highest levels is surprisingly prone to: the tendency to deliver technically perfect but soulless food. Schlegel brings imagination as well as rigor, most notably in a preparation of salmon poached tableside in liquefied beeswax (the filet emerges as succulent as a piece of chu-toro), and his more classical treatments (a seared breast of duck or loin of venison) sing with the quality of his saucing. The sommelier, Jennifer Knowles, is your ally—capable, with one daring wine pairing, of turning a very good dish into something magical.

DON’T MISS: EGGPLANT WITH PEANUT SAUCE; CAULIFLOWER BEZULE; MANGO SHRIMP; PALAK CHAAT; TUNA CHUTNEYWALA; BRAISED LAMB KASHMIRI; CHICKEN TIKKA MASALA; GOAT-CHEESE KULCHA; ONION-SAGE NAAN. EXPENSIVE.

DON’T MISS: FOIE GRAS TERRINE; VEAL DUO; SCALLOPS WITH CHORIZO AND COFFEE OIL; “EVERYTHING CHOCOLATE” DESSERT; SPECULOOS-AND-SALTEDCARAMEL CUSTARD. VERY EXPENSIVE.

WORDS OF MOUTH

BROTEIN

(n.) Hulking portion of meat proferred by tatted-up DC chef. Example: whole lamb shoulder at Kapnos.

CULINARY TERMS THAT OUGHT TO EXIST, 2016 EDITION

ENTRÉETIZER

(n.) Dish bigger than a small plate but not substantial enough to be a main course. Example: scallop boudin blanc at Convivial.

EGOTASTICAL

(adj.) Dish more remarkable for its use of modernist kitchen toys than for its deliciousness. Example: Dragon’s Breath popcorn at Minibar.

LINEJACKER

(n.) One who pays a standin to wait in a restaurant line. Frequently spotted at: Rose’s Luxury.

NIXOLOGIST

(n.) Bartender who refuses to use pedestrian, massmarket ingredients including sodas and juices. Frequently spotted at: Restaurant Eve.

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SERVONIZING

(n.) Lengthy detailing of menu items’ provenance by server. Frequently witnessed at: the Dabney.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY CLAIRE McCRACKEN

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Plume’s Christian Gaston readies the restaurant for dinner.

RASIKA AND RASIKA WEST END

PLUME

633 D ST., NW, 202-637-1222; 1190 NEW HAMPSHIRE AVE., NW, 202-466-2500

1200 16TH ST., NW; 202-448-2300

DON’T MISS: EGGPLANT WITH PEANUT SAUCE; CAULIFLOWER BEZULE; MANGO SHRIMP; PALAK CHAAT; TUNA CHUTNEYWALA; BRAISED LAMB KASHMIRI; CHICKEN TIKKA MASALA; GOAT-CHEESE KULCHA; ONION-SAGE NAAN. EXPENSIVE.

DON’T MISS: FOIE GRAS TERRINE; VEAL DUO; SCALLOPS WITH CHORIZO AND COFFEE OIL; “EVERYTHING CHOCOLATE” DESSERT; SPECULOOS-AND-SALTEDCARAMEL CUSTARD. VERY EXPENSIVE.

WORDS OF MOUTH

BROTEIN

(n.) Hulking portion of meat proferred by tatted-up DC chef. Example: whole lamb shoulder at Kapnos.

CULINARY TERMS THAT OUGHT TO EXIST, 2016 EDITION

ENTRÉETIZER

(n.) Dish bigger than a small plate but not substantial enough to be a main course. Example: scallop boudin blanc at Convivial.

EGOTASTICAL

(adj.) Dish more remarkable for its use of modernist kitchen toys than for its deliciousness. Example: Dragon’s Breath popcorn at Minibar.

LINEJACKER

(n.) One who pays a standin to wait in a restaurant line. Frequently spotted at: Rose’s Luxury.

NIXOLOGIST

(n.) Bartender who refuses to use pedestrian, massmarket ingredients including sodas and juices. Frequently spotted at: Restaurant Eve.

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SERVONIZING

(n.) Lengthy detailing of menu items’ provenance by server. Frequently witnessed at: the Dabney.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY CLAIRE McCRACKEN

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The Inn at Little Washington’s lemon-meringue tartlet with blackberry-citrus frozen yogurt.

BAD SAINT

THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON

Yes, another DC restaurant where you have to show up, put your name on a list, and wait. And what do you wait for? Not a table, most likely. (Most of the 24 seats are stools.) Here’s why it’s worth the hassle: because this nouveau Filipino kitchen is cranking out some of the most exhilarating, interesting dishes in all of Washington. You can smell the garlic and vinegar hitting the wok from down the block. If your experience of Filipino food is limited to tastes of sisig and adobo, you’re in for an awakening. But even if you’re well acquainted with the cuisine, you may be in for one, too. Witness chef Tom Cunanan’s shrimp-and-sweet-potato fritter, teased into an unruly mass that calls to mind Questlove’s spiky fro—the crunch is glorious. Likewise, he transforms a workmanlike breakfast of meat, egg, and garlicky rice into a composed dinner plate of unexpected intricacy and balance. Note to our fellow over-35s: You might not fit in among all the cool kids here, but co-owner Genevieve Villamora and her staff will see to it that you’re made to feel like family.

Turning the big 4-0? Celebrating an anniversary? There are few more over-the-top occasion markers in the country than Patrick O’Connell’s baroque Rappahannock County getaway. The grandedame decor, with its mauve silk lampshades and tapestries, isn’t for every taste, but the place somehow doesn’t feel stuffy. Credit O’Connell’s seamless fusion of folksy and fancy. Each of the three five-course menus—one seasonal, one vegetarian, one comprising the kitchen’s classics (you can mix them up)—kick off with an array of perfect amuse-bouches, including a shot of red-pepper soup, one of the best bisques we’ve tasted, and a tiny potato chip stuffed with pimiento cheese. (One thing we’d avoid: having them with the bill-jacking cocktails, which include an unfortunate $25 mix of Champagne and root-beer-flavored liqueur.) What’s that mooing sound? That would be Faira, a cow/cheese cart that makes the whole place break out in laughs every time she rolls in.

3226 11TH ST., NW; NO PHONE; BADSAINTDC.COM

WOK THIS WAY: Purple cauliflower, bok choy, and baby squash at Bad Saint.

DON’T MISS: FRIED DORADE; PORK-BELLY LETTUCE CUPS; CLAMS WITH CHINESE SAUSAGE; GRILLED TUNA JAW; SEARED TUNA; GRILLED CHICKEN ADOBO; BILO BILO, A RICE PORRIDGE. MODERATE.

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309 MIDDLE ST., WASHINGTON, VA.; 540-675-3800

DON’T MISS: FOIE GRAS TORCHON; MACARONI AND CHEESE; VEAL TONGUE WITH HORSERADISH ICE CREAM; LAMB CARPACCIO WITH CAESAR-SALAD ICE CREAM; SEA BASS WITH TINY DUMPLINGS; BUTTER-PECAN ICE-CREAM SANDWICH. VERY EXPENSIVE.

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The Inn at Little Washington’s lemon-meringue tartlet with blackberry-citrus frozen yogurt.

BAD SAINT

THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON

3226 11TH ST., NW; NO PHONE; BADSAINTDC.COM

WOK THIS WAY: Purple cauliflower, bok choy, and baby squash at Bad Saint.

DON’T MISS: FRIED DORADE; PORK-BELLY LETTUCE CUPS; CLAMS WITH CHINESE SAUSAGE; GRILLED TUNA JAW; SEARED TUNA; GRILLED CHICKEN ADOBO; BILO BILO, A RICE PORRIDGE. MODERATE.

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309 MIDDLE ST., WASHINGTON, VA.; 540-675-3800

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CASA LUCA

IZAKAYA SEKI

MASSERIA

1099 NEW YORK AVE., NW; 202-628-1099

1117 V ST., NW; 202-588-5841

1340 FOURTH ST., NE; 202-608-1330

This was supposed to be Fabio Trabocchi’s simplest, most accessible restaurant. Oh, some dishes are served family-style and meant to evoke the Italian countryside, and nearly every one is carried off with a minimum of fuss. But there’s a rigor and a passion that lift the place above a casual trattoria. The fish has always shone here—don’t miss one of the area’s best tuna tartares—but lately the strength of the pastas (including a beet-stuffed casonsei and a spinach pappardelle) have been making it difficult to decide what to order. The quality of the cooking alone would be enough to earn the place a spot on the list. But add in a savvy staff, a sinuous soundtrack of Sinatra and other oldies, and a crackerjack wine list, and you have what the place was never intended to be: a culinary statement.

The Japanese izakaya trend has taken off in Washington, but there’s nothing scene-seeking about this spare gem. Father/daughter team Hiroshi and Cizuka Seki quietly conduct one of the most impressive dining experiences in town. He stays behind the kitchen counter—among the best seats in the bilevel house— while she roams the dining rooms, often guiding guests to the best sake and soju pairings. Part of the thrill arrives with the illustrated specials menu, which lists assortments of sashimi flown in from Japan and might include fried or grilled delicacies such as custardy barbecue eel. That’s not to say you should disregard the regular menu, which highlights dishes Hiroshi has honed to perfection—the scallop carpaccio remains one of our favorite bites anywhere.

Hiding along a block that fringes Union Market is one of the most seductive restaurant spaces around—with a pool-blue patio in front and a warmly lit raw-brick dining room inside. You can choose among three-, four-, and fivecourse tasting menus, and whatever you opt for, make sure pasta plays a role. Chef/owner Nick Stefanelli came up in some of the area’s top Italian kitchens (the late Laboratorio del Galileo and Maestro), and his sophisticated compositions—linguine with salty, garlicky XO sauce, penne with cauliflower and raisins—are among the city’s best. The cocktails, including a fuchsia Negroni tinted with beet juice, are just as dreamy.

DON’T MISS: TOMATO SOUP; FLATBREAD WITH ’ NDUJA; BEEF TARTARE; SQUID-INK CAVATAPPI WITH SHELLFISH; BUCATINI WITH PRAWNS; SEAFOOD STEW; LAMB SHOULDER; COOKIE TIN; ZUPPA INGLESE; BOMBOLONI. EXPENSIVE.

DON’T MISS: TUNA TATAKI; BARBECUE SHORT RIBS; SHRIMP FRITTERS; GRILLED OYSTERS; CHICKEN KARA-AGE; BRAISED PORK BELLY; HOT POT WITH SEAFOOD AND TOFU; GARLIC-FRIED RICE; SOBA NOODLES WITH DIPPING SAUCE. MODERATE.

DON’T MISS: FOIE GRAS WITH SEMOLINA; MUSHROOMS WITH TURNIPS AND HONEY; AGNOLOTTI WITH BUTTER AND BLACK PEPPER; SQUAB WITH PLUMS; CORVINA WITH BLACK GARLIC. VERY EXPENSIVE.

GARRISON

THE SOURCE

575 PENNSYLVANIA AVE., NW; 202-637-6100 The turnaround-of-the-year award goes to Wolfgang Puck’s DC satellite, which got both a renovation and a serious jolt of energy in the kitchen, still overseen by longtime deputy Scott Drewno. The menu is now almost exclusively Asian fusion, and you’ll hardly miss the Kobe sliders. The duck for two is transcendent, with lacquered skin and tender meat served with bao buns and a bevy of condiments. To start, get dumplings in any and all forms—steamed and filled with shrimp and scallop, fried and stuffed with pork and chive. Even better, order them on a Monday, when they’re discounted to five bucks a plate.

DON’T MISS: LOBSTER DUMPLINGS; KALE-AND-ASIAN-PEAR SALAD; CRISPY SUCKLING PIG WITH APPLE PURÉE; CRISPY WHOLE FISH; HOT-POT TASTING MENU; PORK FRIED RICE; CARROT CAKE. VERY EXPENSIVE.

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TAKE A BAO: DIY duck buns with garlic hoisin, ten-spice salt, and apricot mustard at the Source.

VIN 909 WINECAFÉ

524 EIGHTH ST., SE; 202-506-2445

909 BAY RIDGE AVE., ANNAPOLIS; 410-990-1846

You might recognize the name Rob Weland from his stints at Poste and at Cork. Or not. Weland keeps a low profile, choosing to spend his time in the kitchen, cooking—quaint thought! The great benefit of this single-minded devotion is that every dish is carefully wrought, with none of the sloppiness that can creep into a kitchen with an absentee chef. Weland works closely with a local farm, and the bounties are prominently featured (more in spring and summer, when the chef showcased a stunning heirloom-tomato salad). Pastas remain his signature. There are only two, but both are gorgeous testament to the art. Beware the mind/body split that results after just one taste: The body wants to devour the entire plate; the mind wants you to savor each remarkable bite.

If you came only for the pizzas, you’d leave happy. Unlike most boutique pies in the area, these are cooked in a brick oven and topped with a hand more indulgent than judicious. With crusts this good, you can feel confident in trying a combination that lesser places could never pull off—say, foie gras and truffles. Small plates are just as worthy: Chef Justin Moore has a keen imagination and a refined palate, and the selections on this menu-within-the-menu—a soft mound of mozzarella with gelatinmolded pearls of balsamic vinegar, a plate of gorgeously fresh steamed clams—are rendered with care. Add in the Craftsman-bungalow setting and the nightly party the dining room and patio become, and you have not just a wonderful culinary destination but a getaway and respite.

DON’T MISS: CHICKEN-LIVER PARFAIT; BISON TARTARE; GRILLED MUSHROOMS OVER GRITS; ARCTIC CHAR WITH MUSHROOMS; PASTRAMI HASH (BRUNCH); GINGERBREAD CAKE. EXPENSIVE.

DON’T MISS: TUNA TARTARE; PORK SLIDERS; NO-SKIMP BASIL MARGHERITA, SPOTTED PIG, AND AMALFI COAST PIZZAS; MEATBALL SANDWICH; BUTTERSCOTCH PUDDING. MODERATE.

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CASA LUCA

IZAKAYA SEKI

MASSERIA

1099 NEW YORK AVE., NW; 202-628-1099

1117 V ST., NW; 202-588-5841

1340 FOURTH ST., NE; 202-608-1330

DON’T MISS: FOIE GRAS WITH SEMOLINA; MUSHROOMS WITH TURNIPS AND HONEY; AGNOLOTTI WITH BUTTER AND BLACK PEPPER; SQUAB WITH PLUMS; CORVINA WITH BLACK GARLIC. VERY EXPENSIVE.

GARRISON

THE SOURCE

DON’T MISS: LOBSTER DUMPLINGS; KALE-AND-ASIAN-PEAR SALAD; CRISPY SUCKLING PIG WITH APPLE PURÉE; CRISPY WHOLE FISH; HOT-POT TASTING MENU; PORK FRIED RICE; CARROT CAKE. VERY EXPENSIVE.

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TAKE A BAO: DIY duck buns with garlic hoisin, ten-spice salt, and apricot mustard at the Source.

VIN 909 WINECAFÉ

524 EIGHTH ST., SE; 202-506-2445

909 BAY RIDGE AVE., ANNAPOLIS; 410-990-1846

DON’T MISS: CHICKEN-LIVER PARFAIT; BISON TARTARE; GRILLED MUSHROOMS OVER GRITS; ARCTIC CHAR WITH MUSHROOMS; PASTRAMI HASH (BRUNCH); GINGERBREAD CAKE. EXPENSIVE.

DON’T MISS: TUNA TARTARE; PORK SLIDERS; NO-SKIMP BASIL MARGHERITA, SPOTTED PIG, AND AMALFI COAST PIZZAS; MEATBALL SANDWICH; BUTTERSCOTCH PUDDING. MODERATE.

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PRAISE THE RIGHT HAND

BEHIND EVERY FABIO AND EVERY JOSÉ IS A DEPUTY WHO TOILS IN THE KITCHEN DAY AFTER DAY. THIS BUNCH MAY NOT BE FAMOUS—YET— BUT SOMEDAY THESE RISING TALENTS MIGHT LAND ON OUR BEST-RESTAURANTS LIST WITH A PLACE OF THEIR OWN.

RUFFINO BAUTISTA

ERIN CLARKE

Executive chef at Casa Luca

RUBEN GARCIA (center) Creative director at José Andrés’s ThinkFoodGroup

KRYSTAL CRIPE

B.J. LIEBERMAN

ERIC McKAMEY

JAMES WOZNIUK

BRINN SINNOTT

DANNY WELLS

PAUL STEARMAN

PHILIPPE REININGER

ANDREW WRIGHT

Chef de cuisine at Estadio

Chef de cuisine at Rose’s Luxury

Chef de cuisine at Mintwood Place

Executive chef at Republic

Chef de cuisine at Marcel’s

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Chef de cuisine at Maketto

Executive chef at the Riggsby

Chef de cuisine at the Red Hen

Executive chef at Fiola Mare

Executive sous chef at the Inn at Little Washington

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PRAISE THE RIGHT HAND

RUFFINO BAUTISTA

ERIN CLARKE

Executive chef at Casa Luca

RUBEN GARCIA (center) Creative director at José Andrés’s ThinkFoodGroup

KRYSTAL CRIPE

B.J. LIEBERMAN

ERIC McKAMEY

JAMES WOZNIUK

BRINN SINNOTT

DANNY WELLS

PAUL STEARMAN

PHILIPPE REININGER

ANDREW WRIGHT

Chef de cuisine at Estadio

Chef de cuisine at Rose’s Luxury

Chef de cuisine at Mintwood Place

Executive chef at Republic

Chef de cuisine at Marcel’s

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Chef de cuisine at Maketto

Executive chef at the Riggsby

Chef de cuisine at the Red Hen

Executive chef at Fiola Mare

Executive sous chef at the Inn at Little Washington

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Roasted bone marrow with everything-bagel spice and buttered toasts at Blue Duck Tavern.

775 G ST., NW; 202-737-7663

PROOF

15 E ST., NW; 202-661-2700

BISTRO BIS

CENTRAL MICHEL RICHARD

Steadiness is not one of the sexier virtues in the restaurant world. But settle into this dark-lit lair and you’ll appreciate what so many flashy newcomers lack: a maturity and poise that are evident at the outset, with a warm welcome and expert cocktails. It’s a wine bar, but without the preciousness of many others in the genre—a testament to the haimish sensibility of late owner Mark Kuller as well as the fact that it sits steps away from the Verizon Center. Haidar Karoum’s menu suits a range of needs and tastes. You can graze on cheeses and charcuterie, colorful salads, and flatbreads, or delve into a tasting menu of plates that blend rusticity with refinement. The wine list is one of the best in the area, full of crowd-pleasers and interesting finds. Jaded palates might not be tempted—nearly ten years on, the lineup no longer surprises—but then, you don’t come to Proof for the shock of the new; you come for the shock of the familiar done right.

Three decades ago, the French ruled the city’s restaurant scene. Today the Gallic presence is mostly confined to casual restaurants. This veteran from one of Washington’s most respected chefs, Jeff Buben, is among the few remaining bastions of the destinations of yore. It might call itself a bistro, but its intention is to woo you with the kind of elegantly sumptuous cooking that inspired countless cookbook writers to pen love letters to French cuisine. There’s nothing innovative about this approach, but to take a first, swooning bite of snails in garlicky butter, or fried sweetbreads so light they might as well be dumplings, is to feel gratitude for rear-guard stubbornness.

Michel Richard is one of the most important chefs ever to run a kitchen in this city—or, for that matter, this country. But scan the menu at this warm-toned roost and what jumps out? The burgers, fries, and fried chicken—yes, the junk food among the honor roll of bistro classics. If you have a discerning eye, you’ll understand the process that went into them, but the marvelous thing about Richard’s cooking—as rendered by protégé David Deshaies—is that you don’t need to: These are complex dishes that taste simple. Dessert is a must, whether exquisite tarts or ice creams of liqueur-like intensity.

1001 PENNSYLVANIA AVE., NW; 202-626-0015

DON’T MISS: FOIE GRAS NORMANDE; STEAK TARTARE; QUENELLES WITH BUTTER-POACHED LOBSTER; BEEF BOURGUIGNON; PROFITEROLES; APPLE TART. VERY EXPENSIVE.

DON’T MISS: GOUGÈRES; BACON-AND-ONION TART; “FAUX” GRAS; TUNA CARPACCIO; TUNA BURGER; SHORT-RIB BOURGUIGNON; SCALLOPS WITH CHESTNUT VELOUTÉ; NAPOLEON; LEMON “EGGCEPTIONAL”; CHOCOLATE MOUSSE; CELEBRATION CAKE. EXPENSIVE.

MARCEL’S

DON’T MISS: PÂTÉ CAMPAGNE; PHO TERRINE; LAVASH WITH LABNE; MEDITERRANEAN FLATBREAD; FOIE GRAS WITH CHERRY SHORTCAKE; MEATBALLS; PIG’S HEAD WITH WALDORF SALAD; DUCK WITH MUSTARD SPAETZLE; SWORDFISH WITH CLAMS AND PASTA NERA; SALMON WITH CELERY-ROOT MOUSSELINE; CHOCOLATE-HAZELNUT CAKE. EXPENSIVE.

MAKETTO

BLUE DUCK TAVERN

1351 H ST., NE; 202-838-9972

1201 24TH ST., NW; 202-419-6755

Erik Bruner-Yang’s indoor/outdoor space functions as a skateculture-obsessed shop (hawking $184 hoodies and Brooklyn-made graffiti pens), a coffee bar, and a restaurant, where the tangy, spicy flavors of Cambodia and Taiwan are on full blast. It’s hard to turn down the insta-classics that have always been on the menu—fried chicken with fish-sauce caramel, pork buns—but the menu keeps evolving. Our latest obsession? Gruyère dumplings over zesty braised beef that has the texture of a great chili. For dessert (or breakfast), be sure to try the homey wonders from pastry chef Erica Skolnik.

How does a decade-old farm-to-table restaurant still feel exciting when tavern-chic concepts abound and bone marrow feels about as edgy as a kale Caesar? It recruits fresh talent, as this Park Hyatt dining room did last year. Chef Franck Loquet and pastry chef David Collier have taken on the kitchen with vigor. The marrow—on the menu since day one—now arrives crusted with everything-bagel seasoning that complements the unctuous center, while Collier’s “Nutella breakfast” dessert transports us to a dreamy weekend morning. Talent isn’t limited to the kitchen—try the exquisite blends from the tea cellar.

DON’T MISS: SHRIMP CRUDO; LEEK BUNS; FRIED WHOLE FISH; BAO PLATTER WITH RIB EYE; PORK SANDWICH; “HIPPY HIPPY FLIP” COCKTAIL WITH RUM AND EGG WHITE. MODERATE.

DON’T MISS: BRAISED MUSSELS IN FRENCH ONION BROTH; ACORN-SQUASH SALAD; PORK BELLY AND JOHNNYCAKES; CIDER-BRAISED LAMB SHANK; KALE GRATIN. VERY EXPENSIVE.

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ROSE’S LUXURY

2401 PENNSYLVANIA AVE., NW; 202-296-1166

717 EIGHTH ST., SE; 202-580-8889

At this hushed, dove-gray dining room—which last year underwent a $350,000 facelift—the solemn-toned servers wear black suits, not Chucks, and the maître d’ and team of captains make sure everything runs smoothly. It might feel like food church to some diners, but not to those who mourn a time when patrons still dressed for dinner. Chef Robert Wiedmaier’s menu honors canonical French preparations—a stunning veal-and-pheasant sausage is his signature—yet stays attuned to the culinary times: Mole powder adds depth to elk loin, while ponzu gel enlivens perfect slices of yellowtail crudo.

The line still snakes down the block at Aaron Silverman’s no-reservations dining room, though the reward doesn’t quite inspire the sheer joy it used to. A once-airtight menu of knockout dishes now yields the occasional dud (a ho-hum Peruvian chicken). Still, to put things in perspective, we’re comparing what was a near-perfect dining experience with one that’s currently very, very good. We’ll continue to brave an hour-plus wait for, say, a meltingly tender goat confit. And, of course, for the warm welcome. Silverman’s rowhouse exudes hospitable charm, and this is still one of DC’s most happening parties.

DON’T MISS: MUSSEL-AND-OYSTER GRATIN; MUSHROOM SOUP WITH SNAILS; LOBSTER THERMIDOR; FIVE-SPICE TUNA WITH BRANDIED FIGS; CRÈME BRÛLÉE. VERY EXPENSIVE.

DON’T MISS: SAUSAGE-AND-LYCHEE SALAD; VADOUVAN CURRY; CARROTS WITH YOGURT AND HARISSA; CHOCOLATE MOUSSE; CORN CRÈME BRÛLÉE; COCONUT ICE CREAM. EXPENSIVE.

INGREDIENT WATCH

WHAT CHEFS ARE PLAYING AROUND WITH RIGHT NOW

CURED EGG YOLK

BLACK GARLIC

BENNE SEEDS

BLUE CATFISH

WILD RICE

TRY IT WITH: Hamachi

TRY IT WITH: Corvina

TRY THEM WITH:

TRY IT WITH: Tamarind

TRY IT WITH: Cauliflower

tataki at Crane & Turtle; tuna ceviche at China Chilcano.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY CLAIRE McCRACKEN

at Masseria; goatcheese ravioli at Ardeo & Bardeo.

Lemongrass-icecream sandwich at Restaurant Eve.

soup at Thip Khao; skordalia at Zaytinya.

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steak at the Inn at Little Washington.

CALABRIAN CHILIES TRY THEM WITH: Deviled eggs at the Riggsby.

Roasted bone marrow with everything-bagel spice and buttered toasts at Blue Duck Tavern.

775 G ST., NW; 202-737-7663

PROOF

15 E ST., NW; 202-661-2700

BISTRO BIS

CENTRAL MICHEL RICHARD

1001 PENNSYLVANIA AVE., NW; 202-626-0015

DON’T MISS: FOIE GRAS NORMANDE; STEAK TARTARE; QUENELLES WITH BUTTER-POACHED LOBSTER; BEEF BOURGUIGNON; PROFITEROLES; APPLE TART. VERY EXPENSIVE.

MARCEL’S

MAKETTO

BLUE DUCK TAVERN

1351 H ST., NE; 202-838-9972

1201 24TH ST., NW; 202-419-6755

DON’T MISS: SHRIMP CRUDO; LEEK BUNS; FRIED WHOLE FISH; BAO PLATTER WITH RIB EYE; PORK SANDWICH; “HIPPY HIPPY FLIP” COCKTAIL WITH RUM AND EGG WHITE. MODERATE.

DON’T MISS: BRAISED MUSSELS IN FRENCH ONION BROTH; ACORN-SQUASH SALAD; PORK BELLY AND JOHNNYCAKES; CIDER-BRAISED LAMB SHANK; KALE GRATIN. VERY EXPENSIVE.

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ROSE’S LUXURY

2401 PENNSYLVANIA AVE., NW; 202-296-1166

717 EIGHTH ST., SE; 202-580-8889

DON’T MISS: MUSSEL-AND-OYSTER GRATIN; MUSHROOM SOUP WITH SNAILS; LOBSTER THERMIDOR; FIVE-SPICE TUNA WITH BRANDIED FIGS; CRÈME BRÛLÉE. VERY EXPENSIVE.

DON’T MISS: SAUSAGE-AND-LYCHEE SALAD; VADOUVAN CURRY; CARROTS WITH YOGURT AND HARISSA; CHOCOLATE MOUSSE; CORN CRÈME BRÛLÉE; COCONUT ICE CREAM. EXPENSIVE.

INGREDIENT WATCH

WHAT CHEFS ARE PLAYING AROUND WITH RIGHT NOW

CURED EGG YOLK

BLACK GARLIC

BENNE SEEDS

BLUE CATFISH

WILD RICE

TRY IT WITH: Hamachi

TRY IT WITH: Corvina

TRY THEM WITH:

TRY IT WITH: Tamarind

TRY IT WITH: Cauliflower

tataki at Crane & Turtle; tuna ceviche at China Chilcano.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY CLAIRE McCRACKEN

at Masseria; goatcheese ravioli at Ardeo & Bardeo.

Lemongrass-icecream sandwich at Restaurant Eve.

soup at Thip Khao; skordalia at Zaytinya.

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steak at the Inn at Little Washington.

CALABRIAN CHILIES TRY THEM WITH: Deviled eggs at the Riggsby.

ESTADIO

MINIBAR

1520 14TH ST., NW; 202-319-1404

855 E ST., NW; 202-393-0812 José Andrés’s dining experience is both the most expensive dinner in DC ($275 a pop just for food) and probably the coolest science class you’ve ever been to. At a bar-for-12 fronting a bustling kitchen, you’ll not only eat your way through a set menu of 25 to 30 surrealist courses; you’ll learn how each is made—how, say, a corkscrew, a syringe, gelatin, and liquid nitrogen can create a knockout fusilli with pesto. Many dishes in the lineup these days are more about brow-raising wizardry than deliciousness—get ready for a lot of gelatinous textures—and the whole production feels more rushed than it has in years past. Still, for the food-obsessed, there’s no better show in town.

DON’T MISS: PINEAPPLE SHORTBREAD; CAPRESE SALAD; CHICKEN SHAWARMA; GRILLED MONKFISH WITH CHARRED ONIONS; KRISPY KREME–ICE-CREAM DOUGHNUTS. VERY EXPENSIVE.

FIOLA

601 PENNSYLVANIA AVE., NW (ENTRANCE AT 678 INDIANA AVE.); 202-628-2888 Fabio Trabocchi’s Penn Quarter flagship may not grab the same attention these days as its seafood-minded Georgetown sister, Fiola Mare (number one on our list this year). Still, it remains a power-dining paragon. Pastas are lovely across the board, whether delicate ravioli stuffed with lobster or pappardelle with deeply flavorful wild-boar ragu. As at Fiola Mare, fish is handled particularly well. During a year when tuna tartare is all over menus, the generously portioned ahi version here—done up with olives, Meyer lemon, and creamy sorrel sauce—stands out as one of the area’s best.

If you ever want to convince brunch-haters that there’s more to the scene than tepid Benedict and flat mimosas, take them to this tapas house. We can’t think of a happier way to start a morning than with its toasted country bread with honey butter and Maldon salt, or some of the creamiest scrambled eggs we’ve tasted. There’s plenty more at dinnertime, when the no-reservations-after-6 dining room fills up fast—tiny, crusty sandwiches filled with oil-slicked chorizo and nutty Idiazabal cheese, plancha-grilled calamari doused with lemon, a cheesecake made with Manchego, and, to go with it all, killer gin-andtonics and seasonal “slushitos.”

DON’T MISS: WHITE-GARLIC SOUP; PORK-BELLY SANDWICH WITH PICKLED PEPPERS; HAM CROQUETAS; GRILLED CHICKEN WITH GREEN RICE; SHERRY-STEAMED CLAMS; HANGER STEAK WITH BLUE CHEESE; SHERRY FLOAT. MODERATE.

DON’T MISS: BEEF TARTARE; “COLORS OF THE GARDEN” SALAD; RISOTTO WITH WHITE TRUFFLES; HAY-SMOKED GNOCCHI; SPAGHETTI WITH PRAWNS AND KING CRAB; PROSCIUTTO-WRAPPED VEAL CHOP; SEA BASS WITH PROSECCO ZABAGLIONE; PISTACHIO SOUFFLÉ. VERY EXPENSIVE.

SUSHI CAPITOL

JALEO

325 PENNSYLVANIA AVE., SE; 202-627-0325

480 SEVENTH ST., NW, 202-628-7949; 7271 WOODMONT AVE., BETHESDA, 301-913-0003; 2250-A CRYSTAL DR., ARLINGTON, 703-413-8181

It doesn’t look like a top-tier sushi restaurant—it looks, in fact, like the kind of place you drop by for takeout: seven tables, little in the way of decor. Many who patronize the place don’t choose to stick around, but here’s why you should. The service is warm and inviting, the soundtrack will remind you why you need more Thelonious Monk in your life, and the fish sparkles— quite literally: The cut surface of the chu-toro and salmon were almost gleaming. Load up on rolls if you must, but this is a place to come and appreciate the subtlety and delicacy of the various white fishes that the Japanese—including chef Minoru Ogawa—prize. The $50 omakase remains one of the most underrated dining values out there.

We take Jaleo for granted. We do. Chew on this for a second: Jaleo has been around almost a quarter century. And how about this? The smallplates craze that you’ve maybe grown tired of but can’t possibly ignore? Jaleo birthed it. But the Dorian Gray of restaurants is still youthful and lively, with a menu that evolves in exciting ways. If you haven’t been in years, you’ll find an excellent selection of Spanish hams (including Ibérico, the ultimate in depth of flavor), along with several shiny new baubles (among them, a dish of uni with trout roe, a delicious means of conveying the salinity and sweetness of nature’s custard). As for the old standbys, such as garlic shrimp or fried cod fritters? Good as ever.

DON’T MISS: YOUNG CRABS; UNI; NIGIRI OR SASHIMI OF YELLOWTAIL, MADAI, FLOUNDER, AND O-TORO; FLORIDA ROLL; YELLOWTAIL-AND-SCALLION ROLL. MODERATE.

DON’T MISS: EGG WITH CAVIAR; POTATOES WITH MOJO VERDE; JAMÓN IBÉRICO -ANDMANCHEGO SANDWICH; CHORIZO WITH POTATOES; FLAN; BASQUE CAKE. MODERATE.

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TAPAS DANCE: The dining room at Jaleo’s Penn Quarter branch.

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ESTADIO

MINIBAR

1520 14TH ST., NW; 202-319-1404

DON’T MISS: PINEAPPLE SHORTBREAD; CAPRESE SALAD; CHICKEN SHAWARMA; GRILLED MONKFISH WITH CHARRED ONIONS; KRISPY KREME–ICE-CREAM DOUGHNUTS. VERY EXPENSIVE.

FIOLA

DON’T MISS: WHITE-GARLIC SOUP; PORK-BELLY SANDWICH WITH PICKLED PEPPERS; HAM CROQUETAS; GRILLED CHICKEN WITH GREEN RICE; SHERRY-STEAMED CLAMS; HANGER STEAK WITH BLUE CHEESE; SHERRY FLOAT. MODERATE.

SUSHI CAPITOL

JALEO

325 PENNSYLVANIA AVE., SE; 202-627-0325

480 SEVENTH ST., NW, 202-628-7949; 7271 WOODMONT AVE., BETHESDA, 301-913-0003; 2250-A CRYSTAL DR., ARLINGTON, 703-413-8181

DON’T MISS: YOUNG CRABS; UNI; NIGIRI OR SASHIMI OF YELLOWTAIL, MADAI, FLOUNDER, AND O-TORO; FLORIDA ROLL; YELLOWTAIL-AND-SCALLION ROLL. MODERATE.

DON’T MISS: EGG WITH CAVIAR; POTATOES WITH MOJO VERDE; JAMÓN IBÉRICO -ANDMANCHEGO SANDWICH; CHORIZO WITH POTATOES; FLAN; BASQUE CAKE. MODERATE.

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TAPAS DANCE: The dining room at Jaleo’s Penn Quarter branch.

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SMALL PLATES, BIG VARIATIONS ONCE UPON A TIME, SMALL-PLATE DISHES ALL CAME IN THE SAME BASIC SIZE: SMALL. NOWADAYS, THE TERM MEANS DIFFERENT THINGS AT DIFFERENT PLACES.

PRESERVE

SHRIMP CRUDO ($12), MAKETTO

SEA URCHIN WITH TROUT ROE ($6.50), JALEO

Server recommends: 1–2 small plates per diner (plus 1 large plate per couple).

Server recommends: 2–4 small plates per diner.

DUCK-PROSCIUTTO-AND-EGG TOAST ($11), BAR PILAR Server recommends: 2–3 small plates per diner.

THE RIGGSBY

164 MAIN ST., ANNAPOLIS; 443-598-6920

1731 NEW HAMPSHIRE AVE., NW; 202-787-1500

The mom-and-pop is ordinarily a simple place, humble and homey. And by one measure, this one, across from the legendary diner Chick & Ruth’s Delly on Annapolis’s Main Street, obeys convention. It doesn’t take long to discover, however, that what young vets Jeremy and Michelle Hoffman have come up with is a sophisticated, smartly run operation that belies its low-key intentions. Jeremy—an alum of the kitchens at Per Se, Nobu Fifty Seven, and Restaurant Eve—has crafted a small, focused menu that showcases both his global training (in particular, a facility with Asian flavors) and his Pennsylvania Dutch heritage (say, a lusty plate of pork with sauerkraut). His rendition of a tandy cake, the packaged chocolate/peanut-butter cookie-cake he and many Pennsylvanians grew up snacking on, is the best kind of upscale homage: as delicious as it is affectionate.

Hidden in a hotel that resembles your average Dupont Deco apartment building is a keyhole-shaped doorway. Walk through and you’ll discover a place that transports you, Wes Anderson– style, to another time. The dining room looks late-’70s swank and celebrates cocktail-party relics such as the stuffed mushroom and the Harvey Wallbanger. But chef/owner Michael Schlow, also behind Tico in Logan Circle and a handful of well-regarded Boston-area restaurants, isn’t operating strictly within the realm of the nostalgic here. He and deputy Philippe Reininger also put forth lovely fish dishes—including a cut of striped bass with tangy squash purée and pancetta granola—that feel squarely in the 21st century.

DON’T MISS: MINCED-PORK LETTUCE WRAPS; OLD BAY SHRIMP TOAST; PIEROGIES; BÁNH MÌ WITH HOUSE-MADE PÂTÉ; HAND-CUT FRIES; SAUERKRAUT SALAD; PAN-ROASTED FLUKE. EXPENSIVE.

DON’T MISS: JALAPEÑO TATER TOTS; CHOPPED SALAD WITH THOUSAND ISLAND DRESSING; GRILLED SARDINES; SAUTÉED CALAMARI; BURGER WITH BACON-ONION JAM; SPAGHETTI WITH PECORINO, TOMATOES, AND BACON; ROAST CHICKEN; CHOCOLATE CAKE; CRÈME BRÛLÉE; “LAST FRONTIER” COCKTAIL, WITH BOURBON AND AMARETTO. EXPENSIVE.

CLARITY

442 MAPLE AVE. E., VIENNA; 703-539-8400

HANGER STEAK WITH POTATOES ($16), ESTADIO

MEATBALLS WITH EGGPLANT PURÉE ($12), KAPNOS TAVERNA

Server recommends: 2–3 small plates per diner.

Server recommends: 3–4 small plates per diner.

KHACHAPURI ($14), COMPASS ROSE

Server recommends: 3–4 small plates per diner.

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The debut of this Vienna restaurant was among the most feel-good stories of the year. It marked the return of local boy Jonathan Krinn, once the wunderkind chef at 2941. When Krinn left to open the glitzy Inox, in Tysons, he failed—and failed big: a victim of the times (Inox opened in 2008, when the market crashed) and his own bloated dreams. Clarity is a more modest venture, a neighborhood restaurant first and foremost. Ambition has shrunk, to be sure, but the classical chops are still there, and it’s not hard to see that Krinn, working with ex–Central chef Jason Maddens, is relaxed and cooking with passion. Actually, you can taste it in dish after dish, from seared foie gras with blackberries to a rich two-patty burger that ought to come with four napkins. But among the most appealing aspects of the place are small flourishes—the freshly baked breads and happy-making desserts.

DON’T MISS: MUSSELS AND THAI-STYLE SAUSAGE; GNUDI WITH FAVA BEANS; PORK CHOP; FRIED QUAIL; TARTE TATIN; CHOCOLATE CAKE. EXPENSIVE.

LE DIPLOMATE

1601 14TH ST., NW; 202-332-3333 Washington’s buzziest, red-leatheriest French bistro is still jammed many nights, thanks to its no-surprises approach to Larousse Gastronomique–style cookery. This is the place if you’re in the mood for a strapping beef bourguignon, or an onion soup that tastes as if its broth has been simmering for days, or a perfectly brittle-crusted crème brûlée. But the magic of Le Dip comes from more than that—the lovely little cocktails (we’re currently hooked on the Clouseau, with bourbon, fig, and plum bitters), fresh breadbasket, and smart service all work to create one of the most harmonious dining experiences around.

DON’T MISS: SEAFOOD PLATTER; FOIE GRAS PARFAIT; RADISH CRUDITÉ; CHEESEBURGER; CASSOULET; TROUT AMANDINE; SKATE GRENOBLOISE; MOULES FRITES; PROFITEROLES. EXPENSIVE.

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SMALL PLATES, BIG VARIATIONS ONCE UPON A TIME, SMALL-PLATE DISHES ALL CAME IN THE SAME BASIC SIZE: SMALL. NOWADAYS, THE TERM MEANS DIFFERENT THINGS AT DIFFERENT PLACES.

PRESERVE

SHRIMP CRUDO ($12), MAKETTO

SEA URCHIN WITH TROUT ROE ($6.50), JALEO

Server recommends: 1–2 small plates per diner (plus 1 large plate per couple).

Server recommends: 2–4 small plates per diner.

DUCK-PROSCIUTTO-AND-EGG TOAST ($11), BAR PILAR Server recommends: 2–3 small plates per diner.

THE RIGGSBY

164 MAIN ST., ANNAPOLIS; 443-598-6920

1731 NEW HAMPSHIRE AVE., NW; 202-787-1500

DON’T MISS: MINCED-PORK LETTUCE WRAPS; OLD BAY SHRIMP TOAST; PIEROGIES; BÁNH MÌ WITH HOUSE-MADE PÂTÉ; HAND-CUT FRIES; SAUERKRAUT SALAD; PAN-ROASTED FLUKE. EXPENSIVE.

CLARITY

442 MAPLE AVE. E., VIENNA; 703-539-8400

HANGER STEAK WITH POTATOES ($16), ESTADIO

MEATBALLS WITH EGGPLANT PURÉE ($12), KAPNOS TAVERNA

Server recommends: 2–3 small plates per diner.

Server recommends: 3–4 small plates per diner.

KHACHAPURI ($14), COMPASS ROSE

Server recommends: 3–4 small plates per diner.

WAS HI NGTO NI AN ★ FE B RUARY 2016

DON’T MISS: MUSSELS AND THAI-STYLE SAUSAGE; GNUDI WITH FAVA BEANS; PORK CHOP; FRIED QUAIL; TARTE TATIN; CHOCOLATE CAKE. EXPENSIVE.

LE DIPLOMATE

DON’T MISS: SEAFOOD PLATTER; FOIE GRAS PARFAIT; RADISH CRUDITÉ; CHEESEBURGER; CASSOULET; TROUT AMANDINE; SKATE GRENOBLOISE; MOULES FRITES; PROFITEROLES. EXPENSIVE.

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BIBIANA

1100 NEW YORK AVE., NW; 202-216-9550 The departure of chef Nick Stefanelli—who left to open his own venture, Masseria—has brought fresh energy and talent to Ashok Bajaj’s stylish osteria. Chef Jake Addeo arrives by way of notable Italian restaurants in New York and Hong Kong, including stops with Mario Batali and Lidia Bastianich. His kitchen shows deftness with crudos—try hamachi drizzled with fruity olive oil, preserved citrus, and pink peppercorns—and more robust dishes, such as dryaged duck breast with Italian prunes or velvety noodles in a classic Bolognese. In a hurry? Seek out the warm-hued bar, which pours tasty cocktails mixed with Italian liqueurs and serves a pasta lunch with wine and sorbetto for $18.

DON’T MISS: CRISPY ARTICHOKES; ARANCINI “CARBONARA”; BEETS WITH POMEGRANATE AND RICOTTA; SEAFOOD STEW; SALT-BAKED BRANZINO; CORNMEAL CAKE WITH APPLES AND RAISINS. EXPENSIVE.

FANTASY CUISINE CATEGORIES

DESCRIPTIONS LIKE “ITALIAN” OR “CHINESE” DON’T REALLY CUT IT IN 2016. HERE ARE SOME LABELS WE’D PREFER.

DOWAGER FRENCH

SEE: CHEZ BILLY SUD, BISTRO BIS

2AMYS

DON’T MISS: MOZZARELLA-STUFFED RICE BALLS; ESCAROLE WITH ANCHOVY DRESSING; MARGHERITA PIZZA; “NORCIA” PIZZA, WITH SALAMI AND PEPPERS; CLAM PIZZA; SMOKED SWORDFISH WITH FENNEL; CANNOLI. MODERATE.

ANANDA

7421 MAPLE LAWN BLVD., FULTON, MD.; 301-725-4800 You’ll have to work to find the place, housed in an unmarked building. The reward is worth it—a grand retreat complete with nine fireplaces and a veranda. What the kitchen is up to isn’t immediately obvious, either. The MO of brothers Keir and Binda Singh is to infuse a farm-to-table ethos into the Indian curry house. That means more herbs, less ghee and yogurt, and lighter, clean flavors. The quality of the meats further separates the place from the pack.

DON’T MISS: EGGPLANT WITH TOMATO AND YOGURT; LAMB SAAG; LAMB CHOPS; SHRIMP BHUNA; SHRIMP KARARI; RESHMI KEBAB; DRY-COOKED OKRA; GOAT-CHEESE-AND-CILANTRO NAAN. MODERATE.

NUMBER

Washingtonians are used to waiting in line for places like Rose’s Luxury or Bad Saint. But how about Rice Paper, in the Eden Center? On a recent visit, the line was out the door. On a Monday. At lunch. One of its secrets: about ten cooks in the tiny kitchen— twice as many as that of some similarsize restaurants. The degree of detail in these dishes is testament to the depth of the brigade—the complex saucing in a short-rib clay pot, or the lacy crunch of a rice crepe.

DON’T MISS: ROCKET SHRIMP; STUFFED GRAPE LEAVES; A SAUTÉ OF CLAMS AND PORK; BUN THIT NUONG (A GRILLED-PORK NOODLE BOWL). INEXPENSIVE.

3715 MACOMB ST., NW; 202-885-5700 “Serenity Now”—a menu section devoted to Calabrese olives, anchovies with bread and butter, and other snacks—embodies everything we love about Peter Pastan’s pizzeria and wine bar. These are simple dishes that rely on top-quality ingredients and studious technique. Grazers and adventurous eaters rightly swear by a meal from the changing small-plates roster, such as grilled peppers and anchovies with a glug of olive oil or braised beef meatballs crisped in the fryer. And don’t ignore the beautifully charred pizzas, best ordered with a side of tangy tomato sauce for dunking. Kids and families abound in the downstairs dining room. There’s a quieter space upstairs for stroller-free adults.

RICE PAPER

6775 WILSON BLVD., FALLS CHURCH; 703-538-3888

HIPSTER ASIAN

SEE: BAD SAINT, MOMOFUKU CCDC

OBELISK

2029 P ST., NW; 202-872-1180

VIRGINIA PIEDMONTESE SEE: THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON

KEY-PARTY RETRO

SEE: THE RIGGSBY

DESIGNER ITALIAN

SEE: MASSERIA, CENTROLINA

WAS HI NGTO NI AN ★ FE B RUARY 2016

Today’s dining scene often favors the adventurous (edible insects!), so there’s much that’s deeply pleasurable about Peter Pastan’s 29-year-old tasting room. Tricks are few—plates of burrata are set out for maximum room-temperature creaminess—and hassles are none, thanks to a poised waitstaff who leisurely pace the five-course meal. Linger over the antipasti (also a Pastan strong suit at 2Amys and Etto), the generous wine pairings, and the pastas, such as house-made noodles with squid. To say the cooking is simple doesn’t give the kitchen its due—sourcing the best ingredients and showing skillful restraint is a talent in its own right.

DON’T MISS: GARGATI WITH SQUAB RAGU; SNAPPER WITH CHICKPEAS; GRAPEFRUIT GRANITA WITH CANDIED-FENNEL ICE CREAM. VERY EXPENSIVE.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY CLAIRE McCRACKEN

CHINA CHILCANO

418 SEVENTH ST., NW; 202-783-0941

José Andrés mines the cuisine of Peru, one of South America’s richest culinary plains, at this frenetically loud, flashbulb-bright dining room strewn with colorful throw pillows. As at pretty much every other place in Joséworld, dishes have been distilled into small plates and are set off with some terrific, inventive cocktails (try the Inca Sunrise, made with rum, passionfruit, and muddled tomato). The menu can be tricky to navigate—it throws together traditional Peruvian standards such as lomo salted with dishes that bear a heavy Chinese or Japanese influence. Our advice: Get one of the excellent (and massive) fried-rice bowls and accent it with an array of dumplings, ceviches, and “causagiris,” which are sushi rolls made with potato purée instead of rice. And feel free to get a little extra—dessert here is pretty skippable.

KAPNOS AND KAPNOS TAVERNA

2201 14TH ST., NW, 202-234-5000; 4000 WILSON BLVD., ARLINGTON, 703-243-4400 No doubt you’ve had a gyro before. Grayish-brown meat sliced from a vertical spit and stuffed into a packaged pita. Now get a load of the gyro at Mike Isabella’s Kapnos Taverna—thick slices of roasted lamb, dripping with juice and singing of garlic and fresh oregano, tucked into a flatbread fresh from the grill, and slathered with tzatziki so thick and rich you could envision eating it by the tubful. Isabella is Italian, not Greek, but he got his start at José Andrés’s Zaytinya, and his affection for the cuisine is evident in the bright, zesty dishes that fly out of these kitchens. At Kapnos, meat is dominant. At Kapnos Taverna, in Ballston, fish is the center of the menu. What unites them, however, is more important than what divides them: The ingredients are first-rate, the presentations are dramatic, the flavors pop.

DON’T MISS: STEAMED SHRIMP-AND-PORK DUMPLINGS; LAMB POT STICKERS; PORK BUNS; EEL AND HAMACHI NIGIRI; CALIFORNIA ROLL; DUCK-TONGUE SKEWERS; TUNA CEVICHE; SUNFISH TIRADITO; SHRIMP MAESTRO WONG, WITH WOOD-EAR MUSHROOMS. MODERATE.$$

DON’T MISS: TARAMASALATA; LAMB TARTARE; FALAFEL WITH ROASTED EGGPLANT; YELLOW LENTILS WITH BUTTERNUT SQUASH; SNAPPER IN SAFFRON BROTH; SPIT-ROASTED CHICKEN; WHOLE BRANZINO; SALMON TARTARE; SWORDFISH KEBAB; SPIT-ROASTED PORK WITH HARISSA POTATO SALAD; FRIED POTATOES WITH GREEK ISLAND DRESSING; SPANAKOPITA; GREEK SUNDAE. MODERATE.

MELTING POT: Saganaki—panfried cheese with lemon and honey— and flatbread at Kapnos Taverna.

F EBRUA RY 2016 ★ WASHING TONIA N

BIBIANA

DON’T MISS: CRISPY ARTICHOKES; ARANCINI “CARBONARA”; BEETS WITH POMEGRANATE AND RICOTTA; SEAFOOD STEW; SALT-BAKED BRANZINO; CORNMEAL CAKE WITH APPLES AND RAISINS. EXPENSIVE.

FANTASY CUISINE CATEGORIES

DESCRIPTIONS LIKE “ITALIAN” OR “CHINESE” DON’T REALLY CUT IT IN 2016. HERE ARE SOME LABELS WE’D PREFER.

DOWAGER FRENCH

SEE: CHEZ BILLY SUD, BISTRO BIS

2AMYS

ANANDA

DON’T MISS: EGGPLANT WITH TOMATO AND YOGURT; LAMB SAAG; LAMB CHOPS; SHRIMP BHUNA; SHRIMP KARARI; RESHMI KEBAB; DRY-COOKED OKRA; GOAT-CHEESE-AND-CILANTRO NAAN. MODERATE.

NUMBER

DON’T MISS: ROCKET SHRIMP; STUFFED GRAPE LEAVES; A SAUTÉ OF CLAMS AND PORK; BUN THIT NUONG (A GRILLED-PORK NOODLE BOWL). INEXPENSIVE.

RICE PAPER

6775 WILSON BLVD., FALLS CHURCH; 703-538-3888

HIPSTER ASIAN

SEE: BAD SAINT, MOMOFUKU CCDC

OBELISK

2029 P ST., NW; 202-872-1180

VIRGINIA PIEDMONTESE SEE: THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON

KEY-PARTY RETRO

SEE: THE RIGGSBY

DESIGNER ITALIAN

SEE: MASSERIA, CENTROLINA

WAS HI NGTO NI AN ★ FE B RUARY 2016

DON’T MISS: GARGATI WITH SQUAB RAGU; SNAPPER WITH CHICKPEAS; GRAPEFRUIT GRANITA WITH CANDIED-FENNEL ICE CREAM. VERY EXPENSIVE.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY CLAIRE McCRACKEN

CHINA CHILCANO

418 SEVENTH ST., NW; 202-783-0941

KAPNOS AND KAPNOS TAVERNA

MELTING POT: Saganaki—panfried cheese with lemon and honey— and flatbread at Kapnos Taverna.

F EBRUA RY 2016 ★ WASHING TONIA N

100 VERY BEST RESTAURANTS THE RED HEN

DBGB KITCHEN AND BAR

1822 FIRST ST., NW; 202-525-3021

931 H ST., NW; 202-695-7660

Daniel Boulud hasn’t gotten the wild attention that some of his CityCenterDC neighbors have, from either the press (in the case of Momofuku CCDC) or the Department of Health (Fig & Olive). And despite his sterling reputation, the French-born New York chef’s bistro here opened with more of a flicker than a blaze. Turns out it was just taking its time to settle in. The glassy room still feels more tightly controlled than laissez-faire, but that’s a good thing when it comes to the food, which is more confident than ever. French classics—a textbook coq au vin, a quivering Grand Marnier soufflé—are handled beautifully. But it speaks to the kitchen’s versatility that a link of Thai pork sausage is as much of a pleaser as a fat boudin blanc.

DON’T MISS: GRILLED KALE; TUNA CRUDO; ROASTED SALMON WITH HUMMUS; PANCETTA-WRAPPED TROUT; BASIL FRIED RICE; BAKED ALASKA. EXPENSIVE.

MINTWOOD PLACE

1813 COLUMBIA RD., NW; 202-234-6732 Cedric Maupillier led 2015’s most exciting restaurant opening (that’d be Convivial, number four on this list), but his original Adams Morgan bistro isn’t suffering from inattention. This is strapping Franco-American comfort food executed with immaculate care—as evidenced by his burnished, beautifully crisp escargot hushpuppies. The menu changes just enough to keep things interesting. Still, we’re glad Maupillier doesn’t seem willing to part with the stacked beet-andgoat-cheese salad and bacon cheeseburger that have been around since day one. The loud room—woodsy and lined with antique farming tools—has a wonderfully enveloping quality, especially in the dead of winter.

DON’T MISS: WEDGE SALAD; KALE-AND- BURRATA SALAD; VADOUVAN-SPICED PUMPKIN SOUP; CASSOULET; VEAL SCHNITZEL; CRÈME BRÛLÉE; BROWNIE SUNDAE. EXPENSIVE.

IRON GATE

There’s a wonderful story about Rodin—that when his apprentices praised the hands on one of his sculptures, Rodin proceeded to hack them off. The piece was thus left handless, and declared finished. The moral? No single element should predominate. So it goes here, where the only thing that stands out is the seamlessness with which food, service, and ambience are integrated into a thriving whole. Yes, the pastas are both imaginative and fulfilling, but get a load of the wooden tables and chairs, the most handsome pieces of restaurant furniture in the area. And although the wine list is full of fascinating finds, the dark, laughter-filled room is its own narcotic. Some inconsistencies have cropped up of late, probably a function of the owners’ split attention as they debut another restaurant. We don’t foresee a long-term problem— the place has been too consistent for too long.

DON’T MISS: CHICKEN-LIVER MOUSSE; TROUT RILLETTES; FRIED BRUSSELS SPROUTS; SAFFRON PACCHERI; RIGATONI WITH SAUSAGE; CAVATELLI WITH SAUERKRAUT; PORCHETTA; GRILLED SHORT RIB; SUGAR CREAM TART. MODERATE.

RAY’S THE STEAKS

1734 N ST., NW; 202-524-5202

2300 WILSON BLVD., ARLINGTON; 703-841-7297

A couple decades ago, the Iron Gate Inn, as it was called, was known for its lovely date-night space and not much else. Now, two years after it was taken over by the Neighborhood Restaurant Group, it’s a destination for its cooking, too. Anthony Chittum excels with the peasanty sides of Greek and Italian cuisine. On the wisteria-covered patio (one of the most romantic spots around, even in winter, when fire pits warm it up), you can graze on small plates such as mapleroasted squash with yogurt, as well as platters of roasted meats. In the dining room, choose from four- and six-course tasting menus. NRG employs a dream team of cocktail and wine gurus, and what’s in your glass is given just as much thought as what’s on your plate.

DON’T MISS: CABBAGE SALAD; CORNED OCTOPUS; MIXED GRILL; DUCK WITH CHESTNUT AGNOLOTTI; ROOT-VEGETABLE CAKE; “NICOLAKI” COCKTAIL. MODERATE TO EXPENSIVE.

The robust rope of hanger steak at this no-frills steakhouse was the single best steak we’ve had all year. It’s telling that Ray’s puts just as much effort into its cheapest cut as it does into its most expensive, an exceptional 60-day dry-aged côte de boeuf. In business speak, Ray’s is a disruptor, except that 14 years after it sought to break the mold of the bloated, overpriced steakhouse, nobody else has followed. No matter—that just makes Ray’s more singular. In a genre in which spinach and mashed potatoes are costly sides, owner Michael Landrum offers them free of charge. It seems unfathomable that a twosome could leave a steakhouse for less than $100, but it’s eminently possible at Ray’s. And yes, that includes a wedge of the tart Key-lime pie.

DON’T MISS: CRAB BISQUE; BACON-AND-BLUE-CHEESE SALAD; DEVILED EGGS WITH STEAK TARTARE; COWBOY CUT. MODERATE.

WAS HI NGTO NI AN ★ FE B RUARY 2016

PRICE: $$$ VERY EXPENSIVE / $$ EXPENSIVE / $ MODERATE / ¢ INEXPENSIVE

RESTAURANT · ADDRESS · PHONE

RANKING

CUISINE

PRICE

ANANDA, 7421 Maple Lawn Blvd., Fulton, Md.; 301-725-4800 ARDEO & BARDEO, 3311 Connecticut Ave., NW; 202-244-6750 THE ASHBY INN & RESTAURANT, 692 Federal St., Paris, Va.; 540-592-3900 BABY WALE, 1124 Ninth St., NW; 202-450-3311 BAD SAINT, 3226 11th St., NW; no phone; badsaintdc.com BIBIANA, 1100 New York Ave., NW; 202-216-9550 BISTRO BIS, Hotel George, 15 E St., NW; 202-661-2700 BLACK MARKET BISTRO, 4600 Waverly Ave., Garrett Park; 301-933-3000 BLACKSALT, 4883 MacArthur Blvd., NW; 202-342-9101 BLUE DUCK TAVERN, Park Hyatt, 1201 24th St., NW; 202-419-6755 THE BOMBAY CLUB, 815 Connecticut Ave., NW; 202-659-3727 BRASSERIE BECK, 1101 K St., NW; 202-408-1717 CASA LUCA, 1099 New York Ave., NW; 202-628-1099 CENTRAL MICHEL RICHARD, 1001 Pennsylvania Ave., NW; 202-626-0015 CENTROLINA, 974 Palmer Alley, NW; 202-898-2426 CHEZ BILLY /CHEZ BILLY SUD, Petworth, 202-506-2080; Georgetown, 202-965-2606 CHINA CHILCANO, 418 Seventh St., NW; 202-783-0941 CLARITY, 442 Maple Ave. E., Vienna; 703-539-8400 COMPASS ROSE, 1346 T St., NW; 202-506-4765 CONVIVIAL, 801 O St., NW; 202-525-2870 CRANE & TURTLE, 828 Upshur St., NW; 202-723-2543 THE DABNEY, 122 Blagden Alley, NW; 202-450-1015 DAIKAYA RAMEN, 705 Sixth St., NW; 202-589-1600 DBGB KITCHEN AND BAR, 931 H St., NW; 202-695-7660 DEL CAMPO, 777 I St., NW; 202-289-7377 DOI MOI, 1800 14th St., NW; 202-733-5131 EQUINOX, 818 Connecticut Ave., NW; 202-331-8118 ESTADIO, 1520 14th St., NW; 202-319-1404 ETTO, 1541 14th St., NW; 202-232-0920 ET VOILA!, 5120 MacArthur Blvd., NW; 202-237-2300 FIOLA, 601 Pennsylvania Ave., NW (entrance at 678 Indiana Ave.); 202-628-2888

INDIAN

AMERICAN

$$$

AMERICAN

FILIPINO

ITALIAN

FRENCH

$$$

AMERICAN

AMERICAN/SEAFOOD

AMERICAN

$$$

INDIAN

BELGIAN/FRENCH

ITALIAN

AMERICAN/FRENCH

ITALIAN

$$$

FRENCH

FIOLA MARE, 3050 K St., NW; 202-628-0065 GARRISON, 524 Eighth St., SE; 202-506-2445 G BY MIKE ISABELLA, 2201 14th St., NW; 202-234-5015 GHIBELLINA,1610 14th St., NW; 202-803-2389 GRAFFIATO, 707 Sixth St., NW; 202-289-3600 GREEN PIG BISTRO, 1025 N. Fillmore St., Arlington; 703-888-1920 HANK’S OYSTER BAR, Dupont Circle, 202-462-4265; Capitol Hill, 202-733-1971 INFERNO PIZZERIA NAPOLETANA, 12207 Darnestown Rd., Gaithersburg; 301-963-0115 THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON, 309 Middle St., Washington, Va.; 540-675-3800 IRON GATE, 1734 N St., NW; 202-524-5202 IZAKAYA SEKI, 1117 V St., NW; 202-588-5841 JALEO, Penn Quarter, 202-628-7949; Bethesda, 301-913-0003; Crystal City, 703-413-8181 JOHNNY’S HALF SHELL, 400 N. Capitol St., NW; 202-737-0400 KAPNOS/KAPNOS TAVERNA, 14th Street Corridor, 202-234-5000; Ballston, 703-243-4400 KOMI, 1509 17th St., NW; 202-332-9200 LA LIMEÑA, 765-B Rockville Pike, Rockville; 301-424-8066 L’AUBERGE CHEZ FRANÇOIS/JACQUES’ BRASSERIE, 332 Springvale Rd., Great Falls; 703-759-3800 LE DIPLOMATE, 1601 14th St., NW; 202-332-3333 LITTLE SEROW, 1511 17th St., NW; no phone; littleserow.com

PERUVIAN

AMERICAN

INTERNATIONAL

AMERICAN/FRENCH

FRENCH/JAPANESE

AMERICAN

JAPANESE

AMERICAN/FRENCH

SOUTH AMERICAN/STEAK

$$$

THAI/VIETNAMESE

AMERICAN

$$$

SPANISH

ITALIAN/PIZZA

BELGIAN/FRENCH

ITALIAN

$$$

ITALIAN/SEAFOOD

$$$

AMERICAN

ITALIAN/SANDWICHES

¢–$ $

ITALIAN/PIZZA

AMERICAN

AMERICAN/SEAFOOD

ITALIAN/PIZZA

AMERICAN

$$$

MEDITERRANEAN

$–$ $

JAPANESE

SPANISH

AMERICAN

GREEK

MEDITERRANEAN

$$$

PERUVIAN

FRENCH

$–$ $ $

FRENCH

THAI

F EBRUA RY 2016 ★ WASHING TONIA N

F EBRUA RY 2 1 0 6 ★ WAS H I N G TO N I A N

100 VERY BEST RESTAURANTS THE RED HEN

DBGB KITCHEN AND BAR

1822 FIRST ST., NW; 202-525-3021

931 H ST., NW; 202-695-7660

DON’T MISS: GRILLED KALE; TUNA CRUDO; ROASTED SALMON WITH HUMMUS; PANCETTA-WRAPPED TROUT; BASIL FRIED RICE; BAKED ALASKA. EXPENSIVE.

MINTWOOD PLACE

DON’T MISS: WEDGE SALAD; KALE-AND- BURRATA SALAD; VADOUVAN-SPICED PUMPKIN SOUP; CASSOULET; VEAL SCHNITZEL; CRÈME BRÛLÉE; BROWNIE SUNDAE. EXPENSIVE.

IRON GATE

RAY’S THE STEAKS

1734 N ST., NW; 202-524-5202

2300 WILSON BLVD., ARLINGTON; 703-841-7297

DON’T MISS: CABBAGE SALAD; CORNED OCTOPUS; MIXED GRILL; DUCK WITH CHESTNUT AGNOLOTTI; ROOT-VEGETABLE CAKE; “NICOLAKI” COCKTAIL. MODERATE TO EXPENSIVE.

DON’T MISS: CRAB BISQUE; BACON-AND-BLUE-CHEESE SALAD; DEVILED EGGS WITH STEAK TARTARE; COWBOY CUT. MODERATE.

WAS HI NGTO NI AN ★ FE B RUARY 2016

PRICE: $$$ VERY EXPENSIVE / $$ EXPENSIVE / $ MODERATE / ¢ INEXPENSIVE

RESTAURANT · ADDRESS · PHONE

RANKING

CUISINE

PRICE

INDIAN

AMERICAN

$$$

AMERICAN

FILIPINO

ITALIAN

FRENCH

$$$

AMERICAN

AMERICAN/SEAFOOD

AMERICAN

$$$

INDIAN

BELGIAN/FRENCH

ITALIAN

AMERICAN/FRENCH

ITALIAN

$$$

FRENCH

PERUVIAN

AMERICAN

INTERNATIONAL

AMERICAN/FRENCH

FRENCH/JAPANESE

AMERICAN

JAPANESE

AMERICAN/FRENCH

SOUTH AMERICAN/STEAK

$$$

THAI/VIETNAMESE

AMERICAN

$$$

SPANISH

ITALIAN/PIZZA

BELGIAN/FRENCH

ITALIAN

$$$

ITALIAN/SEAFOOD

$$$

AMERICAN

ITALIAN/SANDWICHES

¢–$ $

ITALIAN/PIZZA

AMERICAN

AMERICAN/SEAFOOD

ITALIAN/PIZZA

AMERICAN

$$$

MEDITERRANEAN

$–$ $

JAPANESE

SPANISH

AMERICAN

GREEK

MEDITERRANEAN

$$$

PERUVIAN

FRENCH

$–$ $ $

FRENCH

THAI

F EBRUA RY 2016 ★ WASHING TONIA N

F EBRUA RY 2 1 0 6 ★ WAS H I N G TO N I A N

100 VERY BEST RESTAURANTS

PRICE: $$$ VERY EXPENSIVE / $$ EXPENSIVE / $ MODERATE / ¢ INEXPENSIVE

RESTAURANT · ADDRESS · PHONE

RANKING

CUISINE

PRICE

LUPO VERDE, 1401 T St., NW; 202-827-4752 LYON HALL, 3100 Washington Blvd., Arlington; 703-741-7636 MAKETTO, 1351 H St., NE; 202-838-9972 MARCEL’S, 2401 Pennsylvania Ave., NW; 202-296-1166 MASSERIA, 1340 Fourth St., NE; 202-608-1330 MINIBAR, 855 E St., NW; 202-393-0812 MINTWOOD PLACE, 1813 Columbia Rd., NW; 202-234-6732 MOKOMANDY, 20789 Great Falls Plaza, Sterling; 571-313-0505 MOMOFUKU CCDC, 1090 I St., NW; 202-602-1832 NIDO, 2214 Rhode Island Ave., NE; 202-627-2815 NOSTOS, 8100 Boone Blvd., Vienna; 703-760-0690 OBELISK, 2029 P St., NW; 202-872-1180 OSTERIA MORINI, 301 Water St., SE; 202-484-0660 THE PARTISAN, 709 D St., NW; 202-524-5322 PASSAGE TO INDIA, 4931 Cordell Ave., Bethesda; 301-656-3373 PASSIONFISH, Reston, 703-230-3474; Bethesda, 301-358-6116 PEARL DIVE OYSTER PALACE, 1612 14th St., NW; 202-319-1612 PETER CHANG, Arlington, 703-538-6688; Rockville, 301-838-9188 PETIT LOUIS BISTRO, 10215 Wincopin Cir., Columbia; 410-964-9999 PLUME, The Jefferson hotel, 1200 16th St., NW; 202-448-2300 PRESERVE, 164 Main St., Annapolis; 443-598-6920 PROOF, 775 G St., NW; 202-737-7663 RASIKA, Penn Quarter, 202-637-1222; West End, 202-466-2500 RAY’S THE STEAKS, 2300 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 703-841-7297 THE RED HEN, 1822 First St., NW; 202-525-3021 REPUBLIC, 6939 Laurel Ave., Takoma Park; 301-270-3000 RESTAURANT EVE, 110 S. Pitt St., Alexandria; 703-706-0450 THE RESTAURANT AT PATOWMACK FARM, 42461 Lovettsville Rd., Lovettsville, Va.; 540-822-9017 RICE PAPER, 6775 Wilson Blvd., Falls Church; 703-538-3888 THE RIGGSBY, 1731 New Hampshire Ave., NW; 202-787-1500

100

ITALIAN

FRENCH/GERMAN

CAMBODIAN/TAIWANESE

FRENCH

$$$

ITALIAN

$$$

MODERN AMERICAN

$$$

AMERICAN/FRENCH

CAJUN/KOREAN

AMERICAN/PAN-ASIAN

MEDITERRANEAN

GREEK

ITALIAN

$$$

ITALIAN

AMERICAN

INDIAN

AMERICAN/SEAFOOD

AMERICAN

CHINESE

FRENCH

AMERICAN

$$$

AMERICAN

INDIAN

STEAKHOUSE

ITALIAN

AMERICAN

AMERICAN/FILIPINO

$$$

AMERICAN

$$$

VIETNAMESE

AMERICAN

RIPPLE, 3417 Connecticut Ave., NW; 202-244-7995

AMERICAN

ROSE’S LUXURY, 717 Eighth St., SE; 202-580-8889 RUAN THAI, 11407 Amherst Ave., Wheaton; 301-942-0075 RUS UZ, 1000 N. Randolph St., Arlington; 571-312-4086 SER, 1110 N. Glebe Rd., Arlington; 703-746-9822 SMOKEHOUSE LIVE, 1602 Village Market Blvd., SE, Leesburg; 571-447-5483 THE SOURCE, 575 Pennsylvania Ave., NW; 202-637-6100 SUSHI CAPITOL, 325 Pennsylvania Ave., SE; 202-627-0325 SUSHIKO, 5455 Wisconsin Ave., Chevy Chase; 301-961-1644 SUSHI SONO, 10215 Wincopin Cir., Columbia; 410-997-6131 TAQUERIA EL MEXICANO, 7811 Riggs Rd., Hyattsville; 301-434-0104 THIP KHAO, 3462 14th St., NW; 202-387-5426 TOKI UNDERGROUND, 1234 H St., NE; 202-388-3086 TRAPEZARIA, 11 N. Washington St., Rockville; 301-339-8962 2AMYS, 3715 Macomb St., NW; 202-885-5700 URBAN BUTCHER, 8226 Georgia Ave., Silver Spring; 301-585-5800 VIN 909 WINECAFÉ, 909 Bay Ridge Ave., Annapolis; 410-990-1846 WILDWOOD KITCHEN, 10223 Old Georgetown Rd., Bethesda; 301-571-1700 WOODBERRY KITCHEN, 2010 Clipper Park Rd., Baltimore; 410-464-8000 ZAYTINYA, 701 Ninth St., NW; 202-638-0800

AMERICAN

THAI

RUSSIAN/UZBEK

SPANISH

BARBECUE

CHINESE

$$$

JAPANESE

MEXICAN

LAOTIAN

TAIWANESE

GREEK

ITALIAN/PIZZA

AMERICAN

AMERICAN/PIZZA

MEDITERRANEAN

AMERICAN

GREEK/LEBANESE/TURKISH

WASH I NGTO NI AN ★ FE B RUARY 2016

Pizza with shaved black truﬄes and a runny egg at Inferno Pizzeria Napoletana.

DEL CAMPO

THE BOMBAY CLUB

INFERNO PIZZERIA NAPOLETANA

777 I ST., NW; 202-289-7377

815 CONNECTICUT AVE., NW; 202-659-3727

12207 DARNESTOWN RD., GAITHERSBURG; 301-963-0115

Some restaurants have a feminine air, all warm hues and soft textures. Some are decidedly masculine—dark dens where business is transacted. Del Campo is a macho preserve. The sensibility is swaggering—the leather-bound menu, the gargantuan steaks, the confident air of the staff. Heck, even the small plates are big. The name refers to the rustic culture that is to Peru and Uruguay what cowboy culture is to America: a mythos, and a culinary world unto itself. The chef, Victor Albisu, doesn’t merely pay homage to that world—he aims to thread its fireside essence through every item on the menu. The cocktails whisper of smoke, and even the desserts are torched. In between, you can count on strong, assertive flavors to stand up to the char of the grill.

Ashok Bajaj’s stately first restaurant wears its 28 years well, thanks to stellar service and a genteel ambience, plus touches that are just throwback enough to fit the vibe (tunes from a white piano). Still, for all the supper-clubby qualities, chef Nilesh Singhvi’s cooking tastes present tense. A variety of curries and artful thali tastings proffered on silver trays join seasonal specialties such as squash-stuffed samosas or vigorously seasoned ground-duck kebabs. Even carnivores shouldn’t ignore the vegetarian section, where mushrooms braised in cashew curry and 16-hour dal makhani reinforce the notion that great things develop with time. Desserts run overly sweet, even by Indian standards—try a sorbet or hard-to-find Amrut whisky instead.

What’s a three-star chef doing running a pizza joint in a Gaithersburg shopping plaza? Having a blast. Tony Conte may have abandoned his post at the Oval Room, but he hasn’t ditched his commitment to top-quality ingredients, nor has he tossed aside his essential approach, which is to create intricate dishes of varying textures and popping flavors. His sunchoke appetizer is deserving of white-glove presentation—the vegetables roasted until they take on the softness of baked potatoes, then hit with Parmesan sauce and toasted hazelnuts. He brings this same care to his thin-crust pizzas. A version with soft egg and truffles is both indulgent and made for quick devouring.

DON’T MISS: HAMACHI CEVICHE; OCTOPUS-AND-POTATO AREPA; PERUVIAN CHICKEN; GRILLED SHORT RIB; GRILLED BACON; COCONUT-CARAMEL CREPE SOUFFLÉ. VERY EXPENSIVE.

DON’T MISS: KALE CHAAT; PAN-FRIED CRAB WITH CURRY LEAVES; GREEN-CHILI CHICKEN; ASSORTED BREADBASKET. EXPENSIVE.

DON’T MISS: BURRATA; MARGHERITA PIZZA; CHERRYTOMATO PIZZA; PROSCIUTTO-AND-ARUGULA PIZZA; VANILLA CUSTARD WITH STEWED APPLES. MODERATE.

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100 VERY BEST RESTAURANTS

PRICE: $$$ VERY EXPENSIVE / $$ EXPENSIVE / $ MODERATE / ¢ INEXPENSIVE

RESTAURANT · ADDRESS · PHONE

RANKING

CUISINE

PRICE

100

ITALIAN

FRENCH/GERMAN

CAMBODIAN/TAIWANESE

FRENCH

$$$

ITALIAN

$$$

MODERN AMERICAN

$$$

AMERICAN/FRENCH

CAJUN/KOREAN

AMERICAN/PAN-ASIAN

MEDITERRANEAN

GREEK

ITALIAN

$$$

ITALIAN

AMERICAN

INDIAN

AMERICAN/SEAFOOD

AMERICAN

CHINESE

FRENCH

AMERICAN

$$$

AMERICAN

INDIAN

STEAKHOUSE

ITALIAN

AMERICAN

AMERICAN/FILIPINO

$$$

AMERICAN

$$$

VIETNAMESE

AMERICAN

RIPPLE, 3417 Connecticut Ave., NW; 202-244-7995

AMERICAN

THAI

RUSSIAN/UZBEK

SPANISH

BARBECUE

CHINESE

$$$

JAPANESE

MEXICAN

LAOTIAN

TAIWANESE

GREEK

ITALIAN/PIZZA

AMERICAN

AMERICAN/PIZZA

MEDITERRANEAN

AMERICAN

GREEK/LEBANESE/TURKISH

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Pizza with shaved black truﬄes and a runny egg at Inferno Pizzeria Napoletana.

DEL CAMPO

THE BOMBAY CLUB

INFERNO PIZZERIA NAPOLETANA

777 I ST., NW; 202-289-7377

815 CONNECTICUT AVE., NW; 202-659-3727

12207 DARNESTOWN RD., GAITHERSBURG; 301-963-0115

DON’T MISS: HAMACHI CEVICHE; OCTOPUS-AND-POTATO AREPA; PERUVIAN CHICKEN; GRILLED SHORT RIB; GRILLED BACON; COCONUT-CARAMEL CREPE SOUFFLÉ. VERY EXPENSIVE.

DON’T MISS: KALE CHAAT; PAN-FRIED CRAB WITH CURRY LEAVES; GREEN-CHILI CHICKEN; ASSORTED BREADBASKET. EXPENSIVE.

DON’T MISS: BURRATA; MARGHERITA PIZZA; CHERRYTOMATO PIZZA; PROSCIUTTO-AND-ARUGULA PIZZA; VANILLA CUSTARD WITH STEWED APPLES. MODERATE.

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WHAT’S MY LINE?

THE GAME IS THE SAME AT MANY OF DC’S HOTTEST RESTAURANTS—A NO-RESERVATIONS (OR LIMITED-RESERVATIONS) POLICY MEANS YOU HAVE TO QUEUE UP BEFORE A PLACE OPENS TO SECURE A TABLE. HERE, A LOOK AT ONE EVENING’S LINES AT FOUR RESTAURANTS. ROSE’S LUXURY

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WHAT’S CHANGED ON OUR 2016 LIST

OUTGOING AGGIO* BANGKOK GOLDEN BAR PILAR BÉARNAISE BIRCH & BARLEY BOURBON STEAK LOUNGE CASHION’S EAT PLACE CAVA MEZZE CORDUROY DGS DELICATESSEN ETHIOPIC THE FAINTING GOAT GYPSY SOUL* KAZ SUSHI BISTRO KOGIYA LIBERTY TAVERN THE MAJESTIC MONTMARTRE OCOPA POSTE RAPPAHANNOCK OYSTER BAR RIS ROGUE 24 SABA SEASONAL PANTRY** SUSHI TARO TABLE THAI TASTE BY KOB TICO WATER & WALL WESTEND BISTRO

INCOMING ARDEO & BARDEO THE ASHBY INN & RESTAURANT BAD SAINT BIBIANA BLACK MARKET BISTRO BLUE DUCK TAVERN CENTROLINA CHEZ BILLY/CHEZ BILLY SUD CHINA CHILCANO CLARITY CONVIVIAL THE DABNEY GARRISON HANK’S OYSTER BAR INFERNO PIZZERIA NAPOLETANA LYON HALL MAKETTO MASSERIA MOMOFUKU CCDC NIDO PETER CHANG PRESERVE RAY’S THE STEAKS THE RIGGSBY SER SMOKEHOUSE LIVE THE SOURCE TAQUERIA EL MEXICANO THIP KHAO URBAN BUTCHER WILDWOOD KITCHEN

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45 SUSHI SONO

10215 WINCOPIN CIR., COLUMBIA; 410-997-6131 If you’d never been and decided to chance dropping by here on a weekend night without a reservation, you’d encounter a line out the door and you’d probably begin looking around the lakefront complex at other options. The reason to stick it out—or make a reservation—is the consistently high quality of the fish and the skill of the veteran sushi chefs. This is special-occasion sushi, but you might not know it, given the lack of trappings and the absence of ceremonial hush. But one look at the rolls ought to persuade you. Yes, rolls. At most places, they’re convenient excuses to use up tougher, chewier parts of the fish; here, they’re conceived as showstoppers. Pay attention to the specials posted over the sushi bar, where you’ll find rarities and choice cuts.

DON’T MISS: SUNOMONO (SEAWEED AND CUCUMBER); FRIED TOFU; DRAGON ROLL; “BRIDAL VEIL” ROLL; SHRIMP HAND ROLLS; SASHIMI AND NIGIRI, INCLUDING YELLOWTAIL, SWEET SHRIMP, LIVE SCALLOP, AND FATTY TUNA; AJI (MACKEREL) THREE WAYS; FRIED SOFT-SHELL CRAB. EXPENSIVE.

46 WOODBERRY KITCHEN

2010 CLIPPER PARK RD., BALTIMORE; 410-464-8000 The lone Baltimore restaurant on the list is here for a bunch of reasons. These are the big ones: No space in Washington is as charming as this firewood-stacked former mill, and no chef is as fixated on uncovering the culinary histories and honoring the traditions of the Chesapeake region as Spike Gjerde. Many restaurants have latched onto the farm-to-table movement, but Gjerde is a model for it. His kitchen handmakes everything it can, including things you can’t show oﬀ in pretty jars, like cornmeal. The menu

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leans hard on nostalgic kitchen-table fare (chicken and biscuits, turkey pot pie) but it often does so with a wink—the “adolescent greens” salad is served with “keys to the car, broken curfew,” and an Irish coﬀee arrives with a glassy brûléed-sugar top.

DON’T MISS: DEVILED EGGS WITH CHIPPED HAM; CRAB DIP WITH SHERRY; CLAMS AND GRITS; OYSTER PO’ BOY; CRABCAKES; CHICKEN-AND-GOAT-SAUSAGE ENCHILADAS; “C.M.P.” SUNDAE, WITH MARSHMALLOW, FUDGE, AND PEANUTS. EXPENSIVE.

47 THIP KHAO

3462 14TH ST., NW; 202-387-5426 It’s not as if you have to like insanely spicy food or oﬀ-cuts to come here, but you’re going to have a more exciting time if you do. And if you happen to go for both at once, then few restaurants are going to make you happier. Thip Khao is the second restaurant from Seng Luangrath (also behind Bangkok Golden) and intended as a showcase for the pungent, sour, spicy, bright flavors of her native Laos. Laos borders Thailand, but that’s not to say your Thai restaurant experiences will prepare you for this food, particularly those dishes from the “jungle” section of the menu. Offal remains trendy in fine-dining circles, a chance for chest-flexing chefs to show they’re badasses, but we doubt you’ve ever seen the likes of pig ears and intestines so richly exploited for their intensity and depth of flavor.

DON’T MISS: SUN-DRIED BEEF; PORK SAUSAGE; CRISPY-RICE SALAD; SOUR SOUP; STEAMED SALMON WITH CURRY PASTE; GRILLED FISH WITH GINGER AND DILL; GRILLED PORK NECK; SOUTHERN LAO HERBAL CURRY; LAO CEVICHE; PUMPKIN STICKY RICE. INEXPENSIVE.

48 THE ASHBY INN & RESTAURANT 692 FEDERAL ST., PARIS, VA.; 540-592-3900

Don’t be fooled by the well-worn beams and creaky wood flooring. The food at this 19th-century inn in the Blue Ridge foothills is thoroughly modern, thanks to chef Patrick Robinson, who recently

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arrived from Table in DC. Focus on his charcuterie, in the form of razor-thin duck prosciutto and earthy chicken-liver mousse with shallot jam—they pair nicely with the standout list of wines and ciders. At the same time, his kitchen dazzles with more serious fare such as roasted meats and fish. The taproom, with its crackling fireplace, is coziest in winter; the porch dining room’s sweeping meadow view calls in summer. People-watching—Ashby is a favorite hangout for the horse-country set—is fun anytime.

DON’T MISS: SHRIMP WITH FENNEL AND SAMBAL; CHESTNUT SOUP WITH SHERRY CREAM; CHEESE BOARDS; ROCKFISH WITH THYME JUS; GRILLED SUNCHOKES, ACORN SQUASH, AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH HAZELNUT EMULSION; RIB EYE WITH POTATO PAVÉ; BANANA NAPOLEON. VERY EXPENSIVE.

49 OSTERIA MORINI

301 WATER ST., SE; 202-484-0660 The Capitol Riverfront area has grown significantly since New York restaurateur Michael White opened a branch of his SoHo osteria there two years ago, though it’s far from fully developed. No matter—Morini possesses the spirit of a full-fledged neighborhood Italian joint. Groups crowd the bar for superb cheese and charcuterie, while the window-wrapped dining room is the place to tuck into executive chef Matt Adler’s robust cooking from the Emilia-Romagna region. Spring for the shareable antipasti—mortadella meatballs are a classic for a reason—though it pays to be selfish when it comes to fresh pastas such as butternut-squash-stuﬀed pillows with braised-lamb ragu. Homing in on the carbs often yields maximum enjoyment, especially when you include pastry chef Alex Levin’s fabulous desserts or weekend-brunch pastry basket, filled with warm Danish and speck-flecked brioche.

DON’T MISS: CROSTINI WITH SMOKED-TROUT, CHICKPEA, AND PARMESAN “GELATO” SPREADS; GRILLED OCTOPUS; TRUFFLED RICOTTA RAVIOLI; GRAMIGNA CARBONARA; SEAFOOD SOUP; PINE-NUT/PISTACHIO TARTLET; CINNAMON RICE PUDDING WITH BUTTERSCOTCH CREAM. EXPENSIVE.

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RESTAURANT EVE 110 S. PITT ST., ALEXANDRIA; 703-706-0450 Digging into Filipino “street barbecue” seems odd at Cathal and Meshelle Armstrong’s Old Town restaurant, given its decade-old reputation as a fine-dining destination for Continental cooking with a locavore bent. Still, sisig and kinilaw are all part of the new Eve, which has melded its tasting room and bistro and now serves both à la carte and prix fixe menus—half Filipino and Asian, half Modern European—throughout the jewel-toned 17th-century rowhouse. The split speaks to the owners’ heritages— Meshelle comes from a Filipino family; Cathal, the chef, is from Ireland—and serves as a preview of the pan-Asian restaurant they hope to open in Southwest DC. Though Cathal’s passion for both cultures comes through on individual dishes, the collision of cuisines gave us whiplash when it came to ordering. Our advice: Stick to one side of the menu. Tables can contentedly linger over a family-style Filipino tasting ($65 a person) or equally delicious Western dishes, such as squash agnolotti with smoked ricotta and sage. Co-owner, sommelier, and cocktail man Todd Thrasher deftly pairs beverages with both.

DON’T MISS: SISIG (BRAISED PORK HEAD) WITH RUNNY EGG; STEAK TARTARE; SQUAB WITH PRESERVED LEMON; BASQUE SEAFOOD STEW; SWEET-POTATO CLAFOUTIS. VERY EXPENSIVE.

WHAT’S MY LINE?

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47 THIP KHAO

48 THE ASHBY INN & RESTAURANT 692 FEDERAL ST., PARIS, VA.; 540-592-3900

Don’t be fooled by the well-worn beams and creaky wood flooring. The food at this 19th-century inn in the Blue Ridge foothills is thoroughly modern, thanks to chef Patrick Robinson, who recently

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49 OSTERIA MORINI

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DON’T MISS: SISIG (BRAISED PORK HEAD) WITH RUNNY EGG; STEAK TARTARE; SQUAB WITH PRESERVED LEMON; BASQUE SEAFOOD STEW; SWEET-POTATO CLAFOUTIS. VERY EXPENSIVE.

51 THE DA NEY

122 BLAGDEN ALLEY, NW; 202-450-1015 Few kitchens are equipped with 19th-century cookbooks or a Colonial-style hearth, but that’s just part of the reason the Dabney has set itself apart in its three-month existence. Chef Jeremiah Langhorne—who left Charleston’s lauded McCrady’s to build his Shaw restaurant—aspires to do for the Mid-Atlantic what mentor Sean Brock has done for Southern cuisine. We’ve found the greatest satisfaction in exploring the smaller plates, including toasty sweet-potato rolls with pepper jelly, Duke’s mayo, and pork belly, or buttermilk biscuits stacked with fried eggs and foie gras. Langhorne does double duty as pastry chef with aplomb, leaving us to wonder why no one thought of an apple crumble with Angostura-bitters ice cream sooner.

DON’T MISS: PORK RILLETTES WITH PICKLED TURNIPS; GRILLED BRASSICA GREENS WITH POTATO PURÉE AND CRISPY SHALLOTS; SEARED SCALLOPS AND BARBECUE TURNIPS WITH MALTED BARLEY; WHOLE FRIED PORGY. EXPENSIVE.

52 MOMOFUKU CCDC 1090 I ST., NW; 202-602-1832

No restaurant opening of 2015 was more anticipated than this spinoﬀ of David Chang’s Momofuku brand. It would be hard for any restaurant to live up to such immense expectations, particularly an outpost of empire with an absentee chef/owner. And while there are dishes that will have you marveling at Chang’s ability to make fast food feel like fine dining, you’ll also encounter the rough edges endemic to highvolume operations where the boss isn’t always looking—a dish that needs more fine-tuning, a presentation that comes across as more tossed oﬀ than labored upon. But Chang, a Northern Virginia native, is often maniacal in his quest for perfection. So keep an eye on the place over the coming year as he introduces new dishes and phases out some of the sure things associated with his other spots. In other words, as in 2015, no restaurant will be more talked about.

DON’T MISS: PORK, BRISKET, AND SHIITAKE STEAMED BUNS; ROCKFISH CRUDO; HAM AND BISCUITS; BEEF NOODLE SOUP; RAMEN; ROTISSERIE CHICKEN; “CRACK PIE”; CHOCOLATE CHOCOLATE COOKIE; BLUEBERRY & CREAM COOKIE. MODERATE.

53 THE RESTAURANT AT PATOWMACK FARM 42461 LOVETTSVILLE RD., LOVETTSVILLE, VA.; 540-822-9017 A visit to this Loudoun County farm isn’t a grand getaway in the vein of say, the Inn at Little Washington. That’s not a knock—instead, this is a more low-key place, a chance to ascend a hill; breathe in the clear, country air; and watch the sun slip over the horizon. It’s also, and not least, an opportunity to sample Tarver King’s experimental tasting menus, often constructed around the bounties of the farm. (On Thursdays, a simpler à la carte menu

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is served.) If some of the tricks seem extraneous—burning an autumn leaf to give a soup the scent of the woods—and the cooking tends to put too much of a premium on the pig, King is nearly always interesting. And when he finds expression in dishes conceived to deliver visceral pleasure, as in a fried hen with creamed rice, the drive seems well worth it: creativity and comfort, when so often these days you’re asked to choose.

DON’T MISS: TURKEY WITH BACON GASTRIQUE; PORKSHOULDER ROULADE; BEEF ON A STONE; SOPHIE’S SELECT CUSTARD; WALNUT PIE. VERY EXPENSIVE.

54 ETTO

1541 14TH ST., NW; 202-232-0920 Celery salad. It sounds like the opposite of fun, right? But leave it to Peter Pastan—a master of elevating even the simplest ingredients at 2Amys and Obelisk—to make it the thing we can’t stop coming back for at this pine-floored slip of a pizza place. The secrets? Three kinds of celery, which make for fantastic crunch, plus a hefty dose of pecorino and lemon. Your best move is to treat dinner as a snackfest of cured meats, cheeses, and small plates from the chalkboard menu (such as a fabulous eggplant Parm or a bowl of clams in sherry butter), then maybe finish with a pizza. The hearty crusts are made with house-milled flour, lightly charred, and sparingly topped.

DON’T MISS: BURRATA; ROASTED LEEKS; WHITE PIZZA WITH COTECHINO AND EGG; CHOCOLATE “SALAMI”; ICE CREAMS; SAN GENNARO COCKTAIL, WITH LAMBRUSCO AND GRAPEFRUIT. MODERATE.

55 ZAYTINYA

701 NINTH ST., NW; 202-638-0800 It’s been 14 years since José Andrés opened his Mediterranean mezze house, though you wouldn’t guess it from the crowds that still pack the lofty space. Chef de cuisine Michael Costa keeps palates engaged with the roster of creative Greek, Turkish, and Lebanese dishes. The menu of more than 60 small plates can make for a generous or slightly uneven dining experience, depending on how you order, though real misfires are rare and tables can forgo decision-making altogether and opt for the chef’s tasting ($55 a person). Our à la carte approach: Start with the stellar spreads and breads—try hummus scattered with ground lamb and pickled vegetables—and touch down at least once in each section, feasting on, say, crisp mussels dunked in walnut sauce, juicy kebabs, and local chard stewed with nutty green chickpeas. Peppercorn-scented Zarabanda saison ale, which Andrés helped create, makes a refreshing pairing across the board.

DON’T MISS: BABA GHANOUSH; STUFFED EGGPLANT; SEARED HALLOUMI CHEESE WITH POMEGRANATE AND MINT; OYSTERS SAGANAKI; SHRIMP WITH LEMON AND DILL; BRAISED LAMB SHANK OVER EGGPLANT PURÉE; GREEK YOGURT WITH MUSCAT-SOAKED APRICOTS AND APRICOT SORBET. MODERATE.

56 GREEN PIG BISTRO

1025 N. FILLMORE ST., ARLINGTON; 703-888-1920 “Play with your food” seems to be the mantra at this Clarendon restaurant tricked out with concrete and brightly colored casserole pots. Many of the exuberant Southern-meets-French-or-Latino dishes are best eaten with your hands. Wedges of custardy cornbread, steamy in their iron skillet, are waiting to be dipped in maple butter. Buﬀalo ribs get swiped in rich blue-cheese sauce. And a ramekin of snails and mushrooms arrives with toast for sopping the juices. If you’re missing your knife and fork, a good New York strip with marrow butter and a crispy pork shank with plantains can get you reacquainted.

DON’T MISS: FRIED SHRIMP WITH SPICY MAYO; PIG TOSTADA; CHICKEN POT PIE; TUNA TOAST WITH RED-PEPPER RÉMOULADE; BACON CHEESEBURGER; MAC AND CHEESE; FRIED CHICKEN WITH BISCUITS; HUEVOS RANCHEROS WITH PULLED PORK; PIE OF THE DAY; PEPPERMINT-BARK ROULADE. MODERATE.

57 GHIBELLINA

1610 14TH ST., NW; 202-803-2389 The secret is out about this darkly minimalist restaurant’s happy hour, which lasts from 4 to 6:30 weekdays and starts at 3 on weekends. It’s not limited to booze: You can dig into the kitchen’s terrific thin-crust pies at a deep discount. Perhaps because of this, Ghibellina’s dining room is comparatively under the radar. That’s your gain on busy 14th Street nights or anytime you have a hankering for simple, olive-oil-and-herb-heavy Italian fare. Grilled meats come out particularly well, and the half chicken—cooked under a brick until its skin is extra-crispy—is worth a visit all by itself.

DON’T MISS: ARUGULA SALAD; CHEESE AND SALUMI BOARDS; SWEET-POTATO GNOCCHI WITH GOAT CHEESE; LAMB-BLADE STEAK; CLAM PIZZA; SAUSAGE-AND-PROVOLONE PIZZA. MODERATE.

58 BABY WALE

1124 NINTH ST., NW; 202-450-3311 This is where Tom Power lets his hair down. His neighboring Corduroy is formal and elegant, with nary a note to be heard over the sound system. Here, in this high-ceilinged den, go-go music percolates and the chef works in a playfully casual vein, turning out, say, a foot-long griddled hot dog tucked into a seeded roll and draped with sauerkraut. There’s finesse to go with the fun. Power is a master soup maker, and if his elegant tomato version is on the menu, you’d be remiss for not starting there. The signature among the big plates is his faux rib eye, fashioned from a cut of beef shoulder and napped with a classical reduction of Burgundy—a.k.a. the best steak sauce around.

DON’T MISS: LOBSTER BISQUE; TOMATO SALAD; FILIPINO SPRING ROLLS; RAMEN; SOFT-SHELL-CRAB SANDWICH; CHOCOLATE-WHISTLEPIG CUSTARD. MODERATE.

59 NIDO

2214 RHODE ISLAND AVE., NE; 202-627-2815 Fed up with noisy restaurants? This newcomer has departed from the herd, forgoing exposed brick and dangling bulbs in favor of a warm and soothing dining room pulsing with gentle bossa nova. The mood of a casually sophisticated dinner party is reinforced by Aaron Wright’s Mediterranean dishes, many of which—such as his chicken thigh with lemon, olives, and jus—consist of no more than three elements on a plate. Some, including a luscious Sicilian chickpea purée, might look like something you could whip up at home, but there’s more process to them than you can see. The less-is-more approach might not yield a host of discoveries at the table, but you’re almost assured of a relaxing and rewarding meal. Stick around for dessert. There are only a few sweets every night, but each is a model of elegant restraint.

DON’T MISS: PATATAS BRAVAS; OCTOPUS WITH GIGANTE BEANS; PAPPARDELLE WITH SHORT RIBS; SEAFOOD STEW; BLUEBERRY UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE; PISTACHIO POT DE CRÈME. MODERATE.

60 PETIT LOUIS BISTRO

10215 WINCOPIN CIR., COLUMBIA; 410-964-9999 Chef Cindy Wolf and partner Tony Foreman, known for Baltimore’s Charleston restaurant, nail the French bistro at this lakeside dining room with gilt mirrors and globe lanterns. The menu boasts smartly turned out classics including foie gras terrine, pommes Anna, and duck-leg confit. Apéritifs (like the pleasantly bitter, acid-yellow Suze d’Autrefois) and a long list of French wines with excellent by-the-glass oﬀerings mean the crowd at the bar is often three deep. Desserts are nice enough, but if it’s either/or, the cheese cart is the way to go.

DON’T MISS: SHRIMP BEIGNETS; BEET SALAD; CROQUE MONSIEUR; SAFFRON MUSSELS; LAMB WITH VEGETABLE COUSCOUS; ROAST CHICKEN; CHICKEN-LEG CONFIT; PEAR SORBET. EXPENSIVE.

61 SMOKEHOUSE LIVE 1602 VILLAGE MARKET BLVD., SE, LEESBURG; 571-447-5483 How does a barbecue joint crack the top 100? Start with the bark on the ribs, roasts, and short ribs—thick, and black as cinder: a sign of real skill on the pit master’s part. The interiors are just as impressive: the rosy pink of these luscious meats evidence of a deep, slow penetration of smoke. Many ’cue-joint sides are afterthoughts; not these. When it comes to the pickles (cured in Catoctin Creek Distillery whiskey barrels), collards, and baked grits, you see the same pride and know-how that distinguish the meats. Washington might never become a stop on the barbecue circuit, but in Smokehouse it has a place, like the best nationally, worth the drive.

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DON’T MISS: BURNT ENDS; “MOIST” BRISKET; PRIME RIB; SPARE RIBS; BAKED BEANS; KEY-LIME PIE; SALTED-CARAMEL PUDDING. INEXPENSIVE.

62 GRAFFIATO

707 SIXTH ST., NW; 202-289-3600 When it opened, it was mobbed nightly—more club, it seemed, than restaurant. Now Mike Isabella’s maiden venture has settled into life after stardom. The bad news first: It’s prone to unevenness, and the prices can get up there in a hurry. But there are more than enough thrills to make it worth seeking out. From one direction, the small-plates menu looks to be Mediterranean, from another, Italian—more specifically, Joisey Italian, an idiom that supplies many of the best moments, from a plate of chicken in pepperoni sauce to a pizza topped with provolone and fried calamari. No one would ever confuse Graﬃato with a pizzeria, even a boutique one, but the pies are among the finest in the area.

DON’T MISS: CHARRED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH PANCETTA; PANCETTA WITH POACHED EGG, MUSHROOMS, AND SALSA VERDE; BUTTERNUT-SQUASH AGNOLOTTI; SPINACH-AND-RICOTTA RAVIOLI; TAGLIATELLE WITH SHORTRIB RAGU; PAPPARDELLE WITH SAUSAGE RAGU; GEMELLI ALL’AMATRICIANA; GREEK PIZZA; BURRATA-AND-ARUGULA PIZZA; CANNOLI. MODERATE.

63 MOKOMANDY

20789 GREAT FALLS PLAZA, STERLING; 571-313-0505 The menu is Cajun and Korean, but the kitchen at this red-walled spot sidesteps chancy crosspollinating among dishes. Mine the Korean offerings and you’ll be rewarded with such gems as foie gras dumplings with slow-roasted duck or a wild-boar bowl laden with pork-kimchee rice, filaments of seaweed, and funky gochujang. Over in Cajun country, come-hithers include fried catfish with pickled peppers, Old Bay, and rémoulade plus a fiery jambalaya with cracklings and house-made sausage. For dessert, the mini-pies à la mode are killer.

DON’T MISS: FAVA “NUTS”; BISON DUMPLINGS; POT-ROAST SLIDERS WITH APPLE KIMCHEE; SWEETBREADS WITH SMOKED PECANS; SHRIMP ÉTOUFFÉE; PRIME-RIB SSAM, A DO-IT-YOURSELF LETTUCE WRAP; CHOCOLATE POT DE CRÈME. EXPENSIVE.

64 RUAN THAI

11407 AMHERST AVE., WHEATON, 301-942-0075 At this strip-mall Thai joint, you can pretty much close your eyes and point at the vast menu and there’s a good chance you’ll wind up with something wondrous. Frying is at a level far above other Thai restaurants (and other restaurants in general). The famed yum watercress salad—with its crispy bits of greens, shrimp, squid, cashew, and shallot tossed with spicy lime juice—tastes like a fritto misto gone Southeast Asian. Yum pla

korb ramps up shards of crunchy fish with scallions, lemongrass, and lime. And boneless duck with a shower of chilies and basil is beautifully caramelized. You can also rely on this 18-yearold family-run kitchen for takeout standards: It makes a mean pad Thai, Panang curry, and chicken satay.

DON’T MISS: CHIVE DUMPLINGS; LARB (MINCED-CHICKEN SALAD); GRILLED PORK WITH SPICY SAUCE; FRIED FLOUNDER WITH CHILI AND BASIL; MANGO WITH STICKY RICE. INEXPENSIVE.

65 HANK’S OYSTER BAR 633 PENNSYLVANIA AVE., SE, 202-733-1971; 1624 Q ST., NW, 202-462-4265 When you tire of restaurant “concepts” and of servers who need to “explain” the menu to you, keep in mind Jamie Leeds’s convivial oyster houses—your antidote to trendy pretense. But why think only oppositionally? Hank’s is also pretty great for a light meal after a movie, or when you happen to have brought together a group of varying tastes and needs and find yourself desperate. The selection of oysters changes daily, the clam chowder rings true, the po’ boys overflow with beautifully fried shrimp and oysters, and the crabcakes (at a time, unfortunately, of diminishing returns on the scene) are reliably light and sweet. The best approach is to cobble together a meal from parts rather than order an entrée—big plates are iﬃer bets—and to drink with gusto (the bartenders know their stuﬀ, and the beer list is stocked with goodies).

67 CRANE & TURTLE

828 UPSHUR ST., NW; 202-723-2543 The scene has witnessed an explosion, recently, of small, independent restaurants in locales where the best residents could hope for previously was a good wing shop. None, however, is quite like Crane & Turtle, which might easily have been an exercise in hipster self-congratulation—an expensive French-Japanese restaurant in a formerly working-class neighborhood—but instead seems so genuine and charming that you root for it. Makoto Hamamura’s brand of fusion, weaving the flavors and traditions of his native Japan with French techniques, is oddly (and unfortunately) out of fashion in this mash-up-mad food culture of ours. Occasionally, a dish comes across as more idea-in-process than fully realized vision, but the best plates feel both creative and rewarding. GM Elizabeth Parker came from Rose’s Luxury and imbues the operation with feel-good sincerity.

DON’T MISS: HAMACHI TATAKI; SEA-TROUT CARPACCIO; SEAWEED SALAD; SMOKED STURGEON WITH CRÈME FRAÎCHE; “SUKIYAKI” (BRAISED BEEF CHEEK WITH A QUAIL EGG); SCALLOPS WITH GRITS; MISO RED SNAPPER. EXPENSIVE.

68 JOHNNY’S HALF SHELL

400 N. CAPITOL ST., NW; 202-737-0400 Ann Cashion and John Fulchino’s roomy, tilefloored dining room—beloved by both Hill staﬀ-

ers and Louisianans hankering for a taste of home—celebrates New Orleans and Chesapeake seafood. That means po’ boys on Leidenheimer French bread flown in from Crescent City at lunch—the brisket with debris (all the charred, crusty bits from the pan) is pretty fabulous—and Chesapeake bouillabaisse laden with a crabcake at dinner. Well-considered cocktails (try the citrusy, sparkling Hum Royale), superlative frying, and nicely done raw-bar plates make this a place to nibble and drink as well as dine.

DON’T MISS: CHARBROILED OYSTERS; PORK CROQUETTES; GUMBO; RED BEANS AND RICE; CRAB IMPERIAL; GRILLED SQUID; CRABCAKES; OYSTER PAN ROAST; CHICKEN OR SHRIMP ÉTOUFFÉE; HOT DOGS; LEMON CHESS PIE. EXPENSIVE.

69 CENTROLINA

974 PALMER ALLEY, NW; 202-898-2426 Remember the name Roberto Donna? The Italian chef, once revered in Washington, has largely faded from view. But a generation of chefs apprenticed under his watchful gaze, among them his most recent protégé, Amy Brandwein, who learned more than a thing or two about pasta making. Let other chefs send out the expected tagliatelle and chittarra—Brandwein’s lineup includes such obscurities as reginette (crownlike cups containing various stuﬃngs of seafood, including, in her rendition, scallop and cod) and casonsei (small, Lombardy-style ravioli filled with beef, chard, and raisins). The impressive

thing is that she can take a pasta you might never have heard of and turn it into something just as comforting as a soulful bowl of spaghetti. The noodle stands at the center of the experience, but don’t bypass the colorful salads and the rustic roasted meats.

DON’T MISS: OCTOPUS WITH POTATO CONFIT; CHICKEN SOUP; ROASTED SCALLOPS; SQUID-INK SPAGHETTI WITH TUNA AND CHILIES; STROZZAPRETI WITH SUCKLING-PIG RAGU; PORCHETTA. VERY EXPENSIVE.

70 TOKI UNDERGROUND 1234 H ST., NE; 202-388-3086

Chef/owner Erik Bruner-Yang may be spending more time at Maketto, his ambitious Taiwanese/ Cambodian restaurant up the street, but you wouldn’t know it save for his absence in the open kitchen—there’s still good reason to snag one of this ramen joint’s 27 stools. Number one: soups such as the Toki Classic, packed with noodles, mustard greens, pickled ginger, a sous-vide egg, and an unapologetic quantity of pork. Though bowls are beyond filling, don’t ignore starters like the fried-chicken bao buns. Sakes and good cocktails help cut the richness, as do vegetarian dishes such as the seasonal tsukemen—noodles with a garden’s bounty of veggies and herbs.

DON’T MISS: PAN-FRIED PORK DUMPLINGS; KIMCHEE RAMEN; FRIED-CHICKEN DAN-DAN NOODLES; CHOCOLATE-CHIP COOKIES WITH RED-MISO BUTTERCREAM. MODERATE.

DON’T MISS: RAW OYSTERS; OYSTER SHOOTERS; HOG ISLAND–STYLE OYSTERS; FRIED OYSTERS; PEEL-AND-EAT SHRIMP; CEVICHE; SHRIMP COCKTAIL. MODERATE.

66 DAIKAYA RAMEN

705 SIXTH ST., NW; 202-589-1600 Expect hour waits—even at lunch—for this 40-seat ramen shop across from the Verizon Center. Here’s why: In a city awash in ultraporky tonkatsu ramen, chef Daisuke Utagawa’s lighter Sapporo-style soups oﬀer more variety and nuance than the competition. Customers hunker on box-like benches, sipping beer to the tune of Jay-Z and a constant sizzling from the kitchen’s woks, which sear vegetables or add a roasted flavor to broth swirled in the pan. You won’t go wrong with any of the five styles of ramen, including a delicate shio (salt broth) and an earthy mugi-miso, swimming with springy noodles, bean sprouts, scallions, soy-marinated egg, and roasted and ground pork (the meatless version is excellent, too). Head to the secondfloor izakaya for superb cocktails while you wait—recently, we’ve found the small plates up there to be lackluster.

DON’T MISS: ADD-ONS SUCH AS SEARED VEGETABLES (BRUSSELS SPROUTS, MUSHROOMS, CARROTS) AND THE “BAKUDAN SPICE BOMB” LACED WITH PORK; SEASONAL SOFT-SERVE. INEXPENSIVE.

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59 NIDO

DON’T MISS: PATATAS BRAVAS; OCTOPUS WITH GIGANTE BEANS; PAPPARDELLE WITH SHORT RIBS; SEAFOOD STEW; BLUEBERRY UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE; PISTACHIO POT DE CRÈME. MODERATE.

60 PETIT LOUIS BISTRO

DON’T MISS: SHRIMP BEIGNETS; BEET SALAD; CROQUE MONSIEUR; SAFFRON MUSSELS; LAMB WITH VEGETABLE COUSCOUS; ROAST CHICKEN; CHICKEN-LEG CONFIT; PEAR SORBET. EXPENSIVE.

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DON’T MISS: BURNT ENDS; “MOIST” BRISKET; PRIME RIB; SPARE RIBS; BAKED BEANS; KEY-LIME PIE; SALTED-CARAMEL PUDDING. INEXPENSIVE.

62 GRAFFIATO

63 MOKOMANDY

64 RUAN THAI

DON’T MISS: CHIVE DUMPLINGS; LARB (MINCED-CHICKEN SALAD); GRILLED PORK WITH SPICY SAUCE; FRIED FLOUNDER WITH CHILI AND BASIL; MANGO WITH STICKY RICE. INEXPENSIVE.

67 CRANE & TURTLE

68 JOHNNY’S HALF SHELL

400 N. CAPITOL ST., NW; 202-737-0400 Ann Cashion and John Fulchino’s roomy, tilefloored dining room—beloved by both Hill staﬀ-

69 CENTROLINA

DON’T MISS: OCTOPUS WITH POTATO CONFIT; CHICKEN SOUP; ROASTED SCALLOPS; SQUID-INK SPAGHETTI WITH TUNA AND CHILIES; STROZZAPRETI WITH SUCKLING-PIG RAGU; PORCHETTA. VERY EXPENSIVE.

70 TOKI UNDERGROUND 1234 H ST., NE; 202-388-3086

DON’T MISS: PAN-FRIED PORK DUMPLINGS; KIMCHEE RAMEN; FRIED-CHICKEN DAN-DAN NOODLES; CHOCOLATE-CHIP COOKIES WITH RED-MISO BUTTERCREAM. MODERATE.

DON’T MISS: RAW OYSTERS; OYSTER SHOOTERS; HOG ISLAND–STYLE OYSTERS; FRIED OYSTERS; PEEL-AND-EAT SHRIMP; CEVICHE; SHRIMP COCKTAIL. MODERATE.

66 DAIKAYA RAMEN

DON’T MISS: ADD-ONS SUCH AS SEARED VEGETABLES (BRUSSELS SPROUTS, MUSHROOMS, CARROTS) AND THE “BAKUDAN SPICE BOMB” LACED WITH PORK; SEASONAL SOFT-SERVE. INEXPENSIVE.

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71 CHINA CHILCANO

418 SEVENTH ST., NW; 202-783-0941 José Andrés mines the cuisine of Peru, one of South America’s richest culinary plains, at this loud, flashbulb-bright dining room strewn with colorful pillows. As at pretty much every other place in Joséworld, dishes have been distilled into small plates and are set oﬀ with inventive cocktails (try the Inca Sunrise, with rum, passionfruit, and muddled tomato). The menu can be tricky to navigate—it throws together Peruvian standards such as lomo saltado with dishes that bear a heavy Chinese or Japanese influence. Our advice: Get one of the excellent (and massive) fried-rice bowls and accent it with an array of dumplings, ceviches, and sushi rolls made with potato instead of rice. And feel free to get a little extra—dessert here is pretty skippable.

DON’T MISS: SHRIMP-AND-PORK DUMPLINGS; LAMB POT STICKERS; PORK BUNS; EEL AND HAMACHI NIGIRI; CALIFORNIA ROLL; TUNA CEVICHE; SHRIMP MAESTRO WONG. MODERATE.

72 G BY MIKE ISABELLA 2201 14TH ST., NW; 202-234-5015

By day, this narrow shop slings some of the top sandwiches in town. At night, the lights go down (though the sound system stays tuned to ’90s hip-hop and metal) and chef/owner Mike Isabella’s crew cranks out a more ambitious roster of Italian pastas and roasts. The $40 prix fixe menu—which begins with a generous meat-and-cheese slate—is a killer deal, but you can go à la carte as well. Even if you have kale fatigue, don’t overlook the cavolo nero salad, softened with tangy yogurt-tahini dressing. It’s one of the best plates of greens we’ve had in months.

DON’T MISS: GOAT-AND-POTATO SANDWICH; LAMB ON PITA; ROAST CHICKEN; GARLIC BREAD AND GRAVY (SUNDAYS ONLY). INEXPENSIVE (SANDWICH SHOP) TO EXPENSIVE (DINNER MENU).

73 CHEZ BILLY AND CHEZ BILLY SUD 3815 GEORGIA AVE., NW, 202-506-2080; 1039 31ST ST., NW, 202-965-2606 Eric and Ian Hilton’s sibling bistros look completely unrelated. The original Petworth location is cozy and creaky, while Georgetown’s Chez Billy Sud possesses an airier elegance, all pale-green walls and gilded mirrors. Though the Hiltons are masters of creating alluring ambience at places that include the Brixton and the Gibson, chefs Brendan L’Etoile and Lawrence DiJoseph bring delicious substance to the equation, too. Their menus convey a passion for the classics, including snails in garlic-parsley butter, crisp-skinned duck confit, and bright-tasting trout grenobloise. Though the oﬀerings vary—Petworth leans rustic, Sud draws more from the sea—plenty of crossover exists, including one can’t-miss dessert: Paris-Brest, a confection of praline cream sandwiched between swirls of pastry.

100

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DON’T MISS: DEVILED EGGS; CHICKEN-LIVER TORCHON; BLUEFISH RILLETTES; SHORT RIB WITH OLIVES; DUCK À L’ORANGE; SEMOLINA/GRUYÈRE DUMPLINGS. EXPENSIVE.

74 PETER CHANG 2503-E N. HARRISON ST., ARLINGTON, 703-538-6688; 20-A MARYLAND AVE., ROCKVILLE, 301-838-9188 The Szechuan master chef who inspired a Deadhead-like following as he hopscotched from restaurant to restaurant in the American South has settled down and built an empire. These two dining rooms represent his incursion into the DC market. Chang’s greatness is not in doubt, but with expansion comes a streamlined menu for easy replication and a fleet of chefs who lack his deftness. Will you taste the magic that turned Chang into a kind of culinary folk hero? Some nights yes, some nights no. Stick to the greatest hits—the bamboo fish, cumin-scented and tucked into a woven basket; the mapo tofu—and you improve your odds of getting a Szechuan meal of unparalleled lightness, depth, and punch.

DON’T MISS: FISH SOUP WITH CABBAGE; CILANTRO FISH ROLLS; SCALLION BUBBLE PANCAKE; DRY-FRIED EGGPLANT. MODERATE.

75 SUSHIKO

5455 WISCONSIN AVE., CHEVY CHASE; 301-961-1644 A vegan omakase tasting is one of many signs that Washington’s oldest sushi spot has evolved and is flourishing at its Chevy Chase location. (The Glover Park original, which opened 40 years ago, has shuttered.) You’ll still find immaculate sushi and sashimi—note the specials flown in from Japan— plus chef’s tastings at the sushi bar and excellent soups such as smoked-mussel miso broth. It’s worth exploring the expanded small-plates menu. We’re fans of the yellowtail crudo with grapefruit, miso-mustard duck, and addictive popcorn-style shrimp with yuzu aïoli.

DON’T MISS: SEAWEED SALAD WITH CREAMY SESAME DRESSING; UDON TEMPURA SOUP; SOFT-SHELL-CRAB ROLL WITH SPICY SESAME SAUCE; JO SUSHI (NINE-PIECE DAILY NIGIRI). MODERATE.

76 EQUINOX

818 CONNECTICUT AVE., NW; 202-331-8118 Time was, big chunks of protein were an emblem of upscale cuisine. These days, though, famous chefs are moving away from meat and toward vegetables: Witness the popularity of José Andrés’s Beefsteak (named for the tomato). Now Todd and Ellen Gray are getting into the act at their 17-year-old restaurant—roughly half the dinner menu is now vegan. And it works, most of the time. Even carnivores should explore the creative “plant-based selections” —we loved crispy sherry-glazed cauliflower with roasted spaghetti squash and a wild-mushroom pot au feu. Then

again, soy-based chestnut velouté doesn’t have the same ethereal quality sans cream, and other options beckon from the menu’s omnivorous side, such as perfectly seared scallops or pappardelle in a lustrous Bolognese. Thankfully, all dishes can be ordered in half or full portions, inviting diners to dabble where they please.

DON’T MISS: TRUFFLED RISOTTO FRITTERS; ROMANSTYLE ARTICHOKES; BACON-WRAPPED VENISON; TRUFFLED MACARONI AND CHEESE; GANACHE TART. VERY EXPENSIVE.

77 ET VOILA!

5120 MacARTHUR BLVD., NW; 202-237-2300 Cheek-by-jowl tables and the happy buzz of conversation give this dining room the feel of a Montparnasse hangout. And while the menu includes nods to the City of Light such as duck confit and pro fiteroles, it skews toward the native cuisine of Belgian chef/owner Claudio Pirollo. That means mussels are reliably plump (we like the version with garlic and saﬀron) and frites nicely crunchy. Despite the cramped quarters, there’s a sense of wit to the place. Oversize cutlery doubles as art, and that luminous clock is actually a projection.

DON’T MISS: ENDIVE SALAD; MUSSELS GRATINÉE; SMOKED SALMON WITH BELGIAN WAFFLE; BEEF STEW; SOLE MEUNIÈRE; BURGER; NUTELLA ICE CREAM WITH CHOCOLATE SAUCE. MODERATE.

78 TRAPEZARIA

11 N. WASHINGTON ST., ROCKVILLE; 301-339-8962 In an unabashedly white-collar city like Washington, there aren’t a whole lot of blue-collar restaurants of worth—places with good food, moderate prices, and little pretense. The appeal of Trapezaria is that it occupies a point on the spectrum almost equidistant from fine dining and diner. Tablecloths grace the tables, but none of the plates that find their way to those tables is particularly pretty. And that’s as it should be— you’re here for rib-sticking satisfaction, not style. The dips, such as the taramasalata, all pop; the avgolemono is lemony and comforting; and the bigger plates, including the marvelous fried cod with skordalia—a kind of Greek fish and chips— have an assured simplicity.

DON’T MISS: BRAISED EGGPLANT; TIROPITAS (CHEESEFILLED PASTRIES); BROILED LAMB CHOPS; GRILLED OCTOPUS; MOUSSAKA; SEMOLINA CUSTARD; YOGURT WITH HONEY. MODERATE.

79 ARDEO & BARDEO

3311 CONNECTICUT AVE., NW; 202-244-6750 DC’s dining scene would be stronger if there were more neighborhood restaurants like this Cleveland Park bistro. It’s casual enough to drop

into for a solo glass of wine and a juicy burger, buzzy during prime time when you want to split some charcuterie with a date before hitting the Uptown Theater, and well suited to impressing food-loving friends (try the pasta with tender lamb-neck ragu). Though candlelit and moody at night, the space brightens for weekend brunch, still a top option with two courses and unlimited bubbles for $29.

DON’T MISS: BACON-AND-FONTINA “PORQUETTAS”; SPINACH-AND-MUSHROOM FONDUE; DEVILED EGGS; OCTOPUS A LA PLANCHA; GRILLED SALMON WITH BLACK RICE. EXPENSIVE.

80 WILDWOOD KITCHEN

10223 OLD GEORGETOWN RD., BETHESDA; 301-571-1700 Robert Wiedmaier has gone Mediterranean at this upscale-strip-mall bistro, the coziest dining room of the 11 in his empire. Retro lamps give oﬀ a rosy glow, while images of lush leaves provide a vivid pop of color. “Vivid” describes the cooking, too. Merguez is punctuated with spiced chickpeas and chermoula, an herby condiment from North Africa. And the beef carbonnade of Wiedmaier’s Belgian eateries morphs into an exotic dish of harissa-glazed beef enlivened with black garlic. It’s enough to make us wish we could talk him into opening a Wildwood in our neighborhood, too.

DON’T MISS: GRILLED SARDINES; SWEET POTATOES WITH QUINOA BRITTLE; AVOCADO-AND-FENNEL SALAD; CHICKEN WITH SCALLION-POTATO CAKE; SEA BASS WITH POMEGRANATE MOLASSES AND FREEKEH; LAMB SHANK WITH MADEIRA JUS; PUMPKIN CAKE WITH CREAM-CHEESE ICE CREAM; SMOKED-RYE “BOULEVARDIER” COCKTAIL. EXPENSIVE.

KRAMERBOOKS KRAMERBOOKSAFTERWORDSCAFE

81 L’AUBERGE CHEZ FRANÇOIS AND JACQUES’ BRASSERIE 332 SPRINGVALE RD., GREAT FALLS; 703-759-3800 French bistro classics are having a moment, but it’s tougher to find the more opulent showpieces—Châteaubriand, Dover sole—that once defined Washington-area fine dining. Unless, that is, you’re at Jacques Haeringer’s cottage in Great Falls. His menu, which includes many nods to his late father, François, who founded the restaurant in 1954, dazzles not with innovation but with small comforts: The toasty garlic bread that kicks off the meal. The powderedsugar-dusted soufflés that wind them down. In between, six-course parades of soul-satisfying cooking. In the event you’re not celebrating an anniversary or promotion,—which might place you in the minority at L’Auberge—Jacques’ Brasserie offers an à la carte menu and doesn’t require reservations or a coat and tie.

DON’T MISS: BACON-AND-ONION TART; PÂTÉS AND RILLETTES; ROQUEFORT SALAD; SEAFOOD IN CHAMPAGNELOBSTER SAUCE; LOBSTER WITH SAUTERNES-BUTTER SAUCE; CHOUCROUTE GARNIE; BAKED ALASKA. MODERATE TO VERY EXPENSIVE.

“100 Very Best Restaurant Award”

—Washingtonian 1517 CONNECTICUT AVE NW 818 Connecticut Ave. NW 202.387.3825/ KRAMERS.COM

T O DD GRAY

(202)331-8118

EquinoxRestaurant.com

A TASTE OF ITALY

DAILY SPECIALS 1329 Connecticut Avenue, NW 1/2 block South of Dupont Metro

202-429-0209 www.otellodc.com

HONORED BY ZAGAT GUIDE

A classic Tysons landmark for 35 years. 1992 Chain Bridge Rd., McLean 703-790-9000 • da-domenico.com F EBRUA RY 2 0 1 6 ★ WAS H I N G TO N I A N

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71 CHINA CHILCANO

DON’T MISS: SHRIMP-AND-PORK DUMPLINGS; LAMB POT STICKERS; PORK BUNS; EEL AND HAMACHI NIGIRI; CALIFORNIA ROLL; TUNA CEVICHE; SHRIMP MAESTRO WONG. MODERATE.

72 G BY MIKE ISABELLA 2201 14TH ST., NW; 202-234-5015

DON’T MISS: GOAT-AND-POTATO SANDWICH; LAMB ON PITA; ROAST CHICKEN; GARLIC BREAD AND GRAVY (SUNDAYS ONLY). INEXPENSIVE (SANDWICH SHOP) TO EXPENSIVE (DINNER MENU).

100

WAS H I N G TO N I A N ★ FEBR UA RY 2 0 1 6

DON’T MISS: DEVILED EGGS; CHICKEN-LIVER TORCHON; BLUEFISH RILLETTES; SHORT RIB WITH OLIVES; DUCK À L’ORANGE; SEMOLINA/GRUYÈRE DUMPLINGS. EXPENSIVE.

DON’T MISS: FISH SOUP WITH CABBAGE; CILANTRO FISH ROLLS; SCALLION BUBBLE PANCAKE; DRY-FRIED EGGPLANT. MODERATE.

75 SUSHIKO

DON’T MISS: SEAWEED SALAD WITH CREAMY SESAME DRESSING; UDON TEMPURA SOUP; SOFT-SHELL-CRAB ROLL WITH SPICY SESAME SAUCE; JO SUSHI (NINE-PIECE DAILY NIGIRI). MODERATE.

76 EQUINOX

DON’T MISS: TRUFFLED RISOTTO FRITTERS; ROMANSTYLE ARTICHOKES; BACON-WRAPPED VENISON; TRUFFLED MACARONI AND CHEESE; GANACHE TART. VERY EXPENSIVE.

77 ET VOILA!

DON’T MISS: ENDIVE SALAD; MUSSELS GRATINÉE; SMOKED SALMON WITH BELGIAN WAFFLE; BEEF STEW; SOLE MEUNIÈRE; BURGER; NUTELLA ICE CREAM WITH CHOCOLATE SAUCE. MODERATE.

78 TRAPEZARIA

DON’T MISS: BRAISED EGGPLANT; TIROPITAS (CHEESEFILLED PASTRIES); BROILED LAMB CHOPS; GRILLED OCTOPUS; MOUSSAKA; SEMOLINA CUSTARD; YOGURT WITH HONEY. MODERATE.

79 ARDEO & BARDEO

3311 CONNECTICUT AVE., NW; 202-244-6750 DC’s dining scene would be stronger if there were more neighborhood restaurants like this Cleveland Park bistro. It’s casual enough to drop

DON’T MISS: BACON-AND-FONTINA “PORQUETTAS”; SPINACH-AND-MUSHROOM FONDUE; DEVILED EGGS; OCTOPUS A LA PLANCHA; GRILLED SALMON WITH BLACK RICE. EXPENSIVE.

80 WILDWOOD KITCHEN

KRAMERBOOKS KRAMERBOOKSAFTERWORDSCAFE

“100 Very Best Restaurant Award”

—Washingtonian 1517 CONNECTICUT AVE NW 818 Connecticut Ave. NW 202.387.3825/ KRAMERS.COM

T O DD GRAY

(202)331-8118

EquinoxRestaurant.com

A TASTE OF ITALY

DAILY SPECIALS 1329 Connecticut Avenue, NW 1/2 block South of Dupont Metro

202-429-0209 www.otellodc.com

HONORED BY ZAGAT GUIDE

A classic Tysons landmark for 35 years. 1992 Chain Bridge Rd., McLean 703-790-9000 • da-domenico.com F EBRUA RY 2 0 1 6 ★ WAS H I N G TO N I A N

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Viennese Restaurant of Washingtonâ&#x20AC;?

82 THE PARTISAN

85 PEARL DIVE OYSTER PALACE

The menu says â&#x20AC;&#x153;serves 4 to 6,â&#x20AC;? but whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a number when you and a pal are bent on getting the pig feast this dining room is known for? Roasted pigâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s head, sausage, smoked bone marrow, pig-ear saladâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all part of the bacchanal. (Just take home lots of leftovers.) Still, there are plenty of other ways to partake in the meaty thrills. Dabble in Nathan Andaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s charcuterie menuâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;we go for the bacon liverwurst, Negroni-inspired salami, and beef heart with bourbon-soaked peppercorns. Or head for bigger plates such as mezcal-braised lamb ribs and pork-shank confit. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t overlook the vegetables and smattering of seafoodâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a welcome counterpoint to all the fatty stuďŹ&#x20AC;.

With its chipped-paint walls, this weathered dining room looks as if itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been here for decades. In fact, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only five years old, but when it comes to the rapidly changing scene along the 14th Street corridor, that practically makes it a granddaddy. The menu hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t changed much along the wayâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the barbecue shrimp are as buttery as ever, the frying for poâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; boy fillings is expert, and the boozy pecan pie remains the best around. True to the placeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name, oyster fans will find much to like. The list culls the best varieties from both coasts (including sweet Kusshis from British Columbia and bracing Beavertails from Rhode Island) and serves them on ice and in decadent preparations such as the Tchoupitoulas, with tasso ham, corn, and crab.

709 D ST., NW; 202-524-5322 Breakfast â&#x20AC;˘ Lunch â&#x20AC;˘ Dinner â&#x20AC;˘ Open 7 days

1331 H Street, N.W. 202-347-5732 cafemozartonline.com

1330 S. Fern st Arlington va. 22202

571-319-4001

ww w.epi csm okeh ou se. com

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: FRIES WITH RANCH AĂ?OLI; â&#x20AC;&#x153;ROTISSI-FRIEDâ&#x20AC;? CHICKEN; BURGER WITH CHORIZO AND BACON-BRAISED ONIONS; SMOKED TROUT WITH BEETS; CURRY BRUSSELS SPROUTS; SNICKERS TERRINE; WALNUT-BOURBON PIE. EXPENSIVE.

83 URBAN BUTCHER

BACC H U S O F L E BA N O N January 1 - March 31 Two-Course Dinner - $20 Sunday - Thursday 7945 Norfolk Ave, Bethesda 301. 657.1722 www.bacchusoflebanon.com

Twitter @FuegoCocina FuegoVA.com

2800 Clarendon Blvd. 571-970-2180

A &J Restaurant

8226 GEORGIA AVE., SILVER SPRING; 301-585-5800 A decade ago, the only time you ever saw charcuterie was in a French bistro. Now curing meats has become one of the ways talented chefs demonstrate their chops. This combination butcher shop/ restaurant from Raynold Mendizabal has emerged as one of the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s foremost destinations to sample the artâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;take a bite of coppa or bresaola from one of his marvelous boards and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll have tasted more flavor than some restaurants can pack into an entire meal. The surest route to a good time is to order a selection of meats to start, linger over them with a glass of wine, then return to the menu to accessorize your meal.

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: SMOKED-BLUEFISH RILLETTES; PĂ&#x201A;TĂ&#x2030; DE CAMPAGNE; LAMB TARTARE WITH MOROCCAN SPICES; PROSCIUTTO COTTO AND MOZZARELLA FIOR DI LATTE; CARPACCIO; BEEF EMPANADAS; PORK BLADE STEAK; ROASTED LAMB SHANK. MODERATE.

Authentic Northern Chinese Dim Sum

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;100BestBargainsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Washingtonian New! 4316-B Markham St tAnnandalet703-813-8181 1319-C Rockville Pike tRockvillet301-251-7878

BOBBY VANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

Steakhouse E . 1969 ST

â&#x20AC;&#x153;100 Very Best Restaurant Three Star Blue Ribbon Awardâ&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Washingtonian 2001

809 15TH STREET, NW â&#x20AC;˘ 202-589-0060

1215 East West Highway, Silver Spring, MD 20910

Tel. 301-562-9400

102

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84 BRASSERIE BECK

1612 14TH ST., NW; 202-319-1612

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: WEDGE SALAD; MARISCOS DE CAMPECHANA, A CEVICHE-LIKE MIX OF SEAFOOD; DUCK-AND-OYSTER AND SEAFOOD GUMBOS; FRIED CHICKEN; FRIED-SHRIMP DINNER; EGGS PONTCHARTRAIN (BRUNCH ONLY); KEY-LIME PIE. MODERATE.

86 PASSIONFISH 11960 DEMOCRACY DR., RESTON, 703-230-3474; 7187 WOODMONT AVE., BETHESDA, 301-358-6116 JeďŹ&#x20AC; Tunksâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Reston seafood palace has a shimmering new sibling inside a downtown Bethesda condo building. Few other restaurants in the area serve pescatarians so well, and the kitchens at both locationsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;overseen by longtime chef de cuisine Chris Climeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;excel with a wide range of styles, including New Englandâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;inspired fry-ups, ceviche, and sushi. (In Bethesda, a dedicated sushi chef turns out terrific rolls.) The raw bar is a particular strength. The Big Daddyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a three-tiered tower overflowing with Wellfleet clams, oysters, jumbo-lump crab cocktail, and a whole lobsterâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;is one of the best excuses there is to celebrate.

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: ROCK ROLL, WITH SPICY TUNA, SHRIMP TEMPURA, AND MANGO; MACHU PICCHU ROLL, WITH FLOUNDER, KAMPACHI, AND CHIPOTLE/LIME; KUNG PAO CALAMARI; FRIED CLAMS; FRIED OYSTERS; CHINESE-STYLE SMOKED LOBSTER; RED-CURRY LOBSTER; WHOLE CRISPY FLOUNDER; MUSSELS WITH LIMONCELLO CREAM; KEY-LIME TART. EXPENSIVE.

1101 K ST., NW; 202-408-1717

Robert Wiedmaierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s soaring space is as charming as ever, from the clocks evoking European rail stations to the gorgeous display of fresh catches from around the world. The kitchen privileges familiarity over novelty, while the strapping portions of bistro cooking speak to Belgian traditionsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;as does the hearty rusticity of this sprawling menu of carbonnades, braised meats, and mussels. The moules frites come drenched with a rich Bologneseâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a brilliant stroke. The wine list is excellent, but the emphasis is on beers, and the list of Belgian tripels, sours, and the like is encyclopedic.

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: SHELLFISH PLATTER; RAW LITTLENECK CLAMS; BEEF CARBONNADE; CROQUE MADAME; MUSSELS WITH RED CURRY; CASSOULET; FRENCH FRIES; CHOCOLATE GĂ&#x201A;TEAU; BELGIAN WAFFLE. EXPENSIVE.

87 LA LIMEĂ&#x2018;A

765-B ROCKVILLE PIKE, ROCKVILLE; 301-424-8066 Sure, you can find a very good lomo saltado, that happy pileup of marinated tri-tip, onions, and tomatoes over a mound of French fries, and the pollo a la brasa is good, too, but do yourself a favor and suspend your meat-centered menugazing when you drop by Emma Perezâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s strip-mall storefront. The measure of any good Peruvian restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and this is oneâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;is not in the meats; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in its preparations of seafood and potatoes. The best reason to come here is to sup on ceviches and tiraditosâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;bright, clean treatments of fish and shellfish cooked only with lime juice so as to emphasize the freshness and texture of the

product. As befits a culinary culture with more than 700 kinds of potato, the humble spud is well represented, from causa, a kind of potato napoleon, to the papa rellena, an oblong ball of mashed potatoes encasing an empanada-like filling.

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: FRIED WHOLE TROUT; AJI GALLINA, A SHREDDED-CHICKEN STEW; LAMB SHANK; ALFAJOR COOKIES. INEXPENSIVE.

88 DOI MOI

1800 14TH ST., NW; 202-733-5131 Thip Khaoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s green-papaya salad and Little Serowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fried tofu are well-known bucket-list items for capsaicin addicts, but the tear-inducing mushroom-and-herb salad at this bright-white Thai/Vietnamese small-plates hangout deserves a spot right alongside them. Much of the menu is singeing, and the trick is finding a good balanceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;knowing that fluďŹ&#x20AC;y mounds of crab fried rice and giant pork buns are your friends next to the curries and chili-laced larb salad. So, too, the wine list, which is packed with tongue-soothing values from Germany and Austria. We just wish we could say the same about the servers, who during multiple visits ranged from unhelpful to absentee.

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: STICKY WINGS; CRISPY-RICE SALAD; FRIED MARINATED BEEF; DUCK WITH RED CURRY; KHAO SOI, A CHICKEN CURRY WITH NOODLES; SABLEFISH WITH DILL; CONES OF SOFT-SERVE. MODERATE.

89 RIPPLE

3417 CONNECTICUT AVE., NW; 202-244-7995 Chef Marjorie Meek-Bradley has expanded her presence well beyond Cleveland Park in the past year, competing on Top Chef and preparing for an upcoming sandwich joint at DCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s convention center. Thankfully, her home-base kitchen doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t feel forsaken and is producing a lively lineup of dishes suited for a range of dining experiences. Settle into the bar/lounge for a smoky mezcal cocktail and the extensive variety of cheeses and charcuterie (try the house-made rabbit rillettes) or take a table in the red-hued, pleasantly hushed dining room. Oft-changing plates run eclecticâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;we fell hard for the excellent Indian-spiced carrot soup, roasted bone marrow with chimichurri, and best-of-bothworlds chicken (itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s roasted and fried). Still, it was tough not to fill up on the complimentary milk bread dusted with everything-bagel seasoning.

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: GRIBICHE DEVILED EGGS; ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH SMOKED EGG YOLK; HALIBUT WITH BRAISED CURRY CAULIFLOWER; DARK-CHOCOLATE CRĂ&#x2030;MEUX; CHOCOLATE-CHIP COOKIES. EXPENSIVE.

90 TAQUERIA EL MEXICANO

7811 RIGGS RD., HYATTSVILLE; 301-434-0104 Okay, so the dining room looks about as inviting as a 7-Eleven. But so what when the mole tastes

this rich with nuts, chilies, and dark chocolate? The rojo for the adobo pork is nearly as goodâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;slice oďŹ&#x20AC; a hunk of the tender rib meat, tuck it into a nubbly, from-scratch corn tortilla, and drizzle on some of the hot sauce. The sopes, too, are made in-houseâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; order one with braised tongue and savor the way the texture of the thick tortilla and the soft meat nearly approximate each other. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be tempted by the typical Tex-Mex fare, such as tacos and enchiladas, which tend to evince less conviction than the authentically Mexican stuďŹ&#x20AC; that owners (and proud Puebla natives) Bernardo and Clara Vargas opened the place to showcase. If thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a cream pastry in the case up front, grab it when you place your orderâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the Vargases own the bakery a couple of doors down, and the sweet might not be there when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re ready for dessert.

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: TAMALES; COSTILLAS (RIBS); POSOLE, A PORK-AND-HOMINY SOUP; RICE AND BEANS. INEXPENSIVE.

91 BLACKSALT

4883 MacARTHUR BLVD., NW; 202-342-9101

Woo Lae Oak, recently voted Virginiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best Korean restaurant, invites you to visit our location at Tysons Corner. With its sophisticated decor and relaxed atmosphere the Woo Lae Oak family continues a 60year old tradition of excellence in service and quality. From the tabletop smokeless barbeque to the sizzling Dolsot Bibimbap, Woo Lae Oak offers guests an authentic experience in Korean cuisine.

Long before market/restaurant hybrids became trendy, chef JeďŹ&#x20AC; Blackâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seafood shop and dining room was a destination in the Palisades. Eleven years in, the crowds havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t waned, though the We offer breakfast, lunch, dinner as well as space has been refreshed with bar-area banprivate parties, catering and special events. quettes and a brighter palette. Seafoodâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;including Tysons Corner specialties you can select from ice-laden cases 8240 Leesburg Pike â&#x20AC;˘ Vienna, VA for chefs to prepareâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;remains the main draw. (703) 827-7300 â&#x20AC;˘ www.woolaeoak.com Chef Mike Huff, who has spent time cooking in Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Campania region, has added a few dailyspecial fresh pastas to the menu; they join a global lineup thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s strong when touching down in Europe (wood-grilled sardines with garlic-parsley sauce) Woo Lae Oak Restaurant-1215.indd 1 1/12/16 and Asia (Skuna Bay salmon atop a rice tower). Portions run large and flavors tend to be rich, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worth skipping a small plate and saving room for longtime pastry chef Susan Wallaceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s retro sweets.Â

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: WOOD-GRILLED OCTOPUS WITH SALSA VERDE; FRIED IPSWICH CLAMS WITH CURRY AĂ?OLI; STEAMED MUSSELS WITH BACON AND ALE; WHOLE GRILLED BRANZINO WITH FLAGEOLET BEANS; JUMBO PRAWN-AND-RED-MISO STEW; BOUILLABAISSE; BUTTERSCOTCH POT DE CRĂ&#x2C6;ME; BANANACOCONUT CREAM PIE. EXPENSIVE.

92 LYON HALL

3100 N. WASHINGTON BLVD., ARLINGTON; 703-741-7636 This jammed Clarendon brasserie gracefully straddles the territory between bar and restaurant. There are plenty of twentysomethings here to sip from the groaning roster of boutique wines, Belgian and German beers, ciders, and cocktails. But itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a family destination, with swing-setfriendly fareâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;giant pretzels, terrific house-made hot dogs in poppy-seed bunsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;that tends to show up on a lot of grownupsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; plates, too. House-made charcuterie and mussel pots are ideal for communal eating, as are platters of sausages and pork belly piled on top of kraut and spaetzle and garnished with tart lingonberries. In the mood for something lighter? Go for the grilled sea bass, boosted by zippy green-olive vinaigrette.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;100 Very Best Restaurant Awardâ&#x20AC;? TODD GR AY

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Washingtonian

818 Connecticut Ave. NW

(202)331-8118

EquinoxRestaurant.com

F EBRUA RY 2 0 1 6 â&#x2DC;&#x2026; WAS H I N G TO N I A N

103

9:46 AM

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Viennese Restaurant of Washingtonâ&#x20AC;?

82 THE PARTISAN

85 PEARL DIVE OYSTER PALACE

709 D ST., NW; 202-524-5322 Breakfast â&#x20AC;˘ Lunch â&#x20AC;˘ Dinner â&#x20AC;˘ Open 7 days

1331 H Street, N.W. 202-347-5732 cafemozartonline.com

1330 S. Fern st Arlington va. 22202

571-319-4001

ww w.epi csm okeh ou se. com

83 URBAN BUTCHER

BACC H U S O F L E BA N O N January 1 - March 31 Two-Course Dinner - $20 Sunday - Thursday 7945 Norfolk Ave, Bethesda 301. 657.1722 www.bacchusoflebanon.com

Twitter @FuegoCocina FuegoVA.com

2800 Clarendon Blvd. 571-970-2180

A &J Restaurant

Authentic Northern Chinese Dim Sum

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;100BestBargainsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Washingtonian New! 4316-B Markham St tAnnandalet703-813-8181 1319-C Rockville Pike tRockvillet301-251-7878

BOBBY VANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

Steakhouse E . 1969 ST

â&#x20AC;&#x153;100 Very Best Restaurant Three Star Blue Ribbon Awardâ&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Washingtonian 2001

809 15TH STREET, NW â&#x20AC;˘ 202-589-0060

1215 East West Highway, Silver Spring, MD 20910

Tel. 301-562-9400

102

WAS H I N G TO N I A N â&#x2DC;&#x2026; FEBR UA RY 2 0 1 6

84 BRASSERIE BECK

1612 14TH ST., NW; 202-319-1612

1101 K ST., NW; 202-408-1717

87 LA LIMEĂ&#x2018;A

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: FRIED WHOLE TROUT; AJI GALLINA, A SHREDDED-CHICKEN STEW; LAMB SHANK; ALFAJOR COOKIES. INEXPENSIVE.

88 DOI MOI

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: STICKY WINGS; CRISPY-RICE SALAD; FRIED MARINATED BEEF; DUCK WITH RED CURRY; KHAO SOI, A CHICKEN CURRY WITH NOODLES; SABLEFISH WITH DILL; CONES OF SOFT-SERVE. MODERATE.

89 RIPPLE

90 TAQUERIA EL MEXICANO

7811 RIGGS RD., HYATTSVILLE; 301-434-0104 Okay, so the dining room looks about as inviting as a 7-Eleven. But so what when the mole tastes

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: TAMALES; COSTILLAS (RIBS); POSOLE, A PORK-AND-HOMINY SOUP; RICE AND BEANS. INEXPENSIVE.

91 BLACKSALT

4883 MacARTHUR BLVD., NW; 202-342-9101

92 LYON HALL

â&#x20AC;&#x153;100 Very Best Restaurant Awardâ&#x20AC;? TODD GR AY

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Washingtonian

818 Connecticut Ave. NW

(202)331-8118

EquinoxRestaurant.com

F EBRUA RY 2 0 1 6 â&#x2DC;&#x2026; WAS H I N G TO N I A N

103

9:46 AM

Top 5 Romantic Restaurants in the US

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: FRENCH ONION SOUP; PEAR-AND-ROQUEFORT SALAD; PORK SCHNITZEL WITH NOODLES; BURGER WITH RACLETTE; PROFITEROLES WITH SALTED-CARAMEL SAUCE; SONOMA â&#x20AC;&#x153;THE PITCHFORKâ&#x20AC;? PEAR CIDER. MODERATE.

(its divine tomato broth could stand alone as its own dish, to be soaked up with crusty bread), a shrimp poâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; boy to make a New Orleanian forget home. With bigger plates, the cooking tends to lose its clarity. As at all of Blackâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurants, desserts are a highlight, delivering homey satisfaction.

93 COMPASS ROSE

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: GOAT-CHEESE CROSTINI; FALAFEL PLATTER; BRICK CHICKEN WITH CHORIZO; PAN-ROASTED SWORDFISH; CHOCOLATE-SALTED CARAMEL TART; APPLE-PIE DOUGHNUT. MODERATE.

www.theprimerib.com

202-466-8811 â&#x20AC;˘ 2020 K St. NW â&#x20AC;˘ Free Valet Pkg

r XXX PMETUFJO JOO DPN

Vietnam without jet lag!

1346 T ST., NW; 202-506-4765 Rose Previteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cozy joint is just half a block oďŹ&#x20AC; 14th Street, but it feels like a respite. She and her waitstaďŹ&#x20AC;â&#x20AC;&#x201D;who look imported from the set of Girlsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; create a friendly, cozy vibe in the elbow-to-elbow rowhouse dining room. (Recently, the back area has been tricked out with a sunset-hued Bedouin tent, where a separate Moroccan menu is served.) In the kitchen, chef Sam Molavi has tightened up a once-scatterbrained small-plates menu devoted to street snacks from around the world. Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s as deft with turning out creamy Japanese octopus fritters as he is with Colombian lamb-neck arepas. To drink, there are bracing cocktails made with obscurities like gĂŠnĂŠpy, an Alpine apĂŠritif.

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: BOQUERONES; KHACHAPURI (A FLATBREAD WITH CHEESE, EGG, AND BUTTER); TUNISIAN CHICKEN SKEWERS; KOREAN PORK RIBS; CURRYWURST. MODERATE.

94 NOSTOS

edencenter.com

Georgetown 1522 Wisconsin Ave Bistro â?Ś CrĂŞperie â?Ś Bar â?Ś Cafe 202.333.8830

4711 Lee Highway Arlington, VA 22207 703-528-2464

8100 BOONE BLVD., VIENNA; 703-760-0690 Tucked away in a Tysons oďŹ&#x192;ce park, this whiteon-white Greek restaurant runs traditional, which is in many ways an assetâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;wine-braised lamb shanks are meltingly tender, spreads including smoky eggplant feel light, and fresh catches such as branzino arrive moist and simply dressed with fruity Greek olive oil. The kitchenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s particular strengths come forth in seafood small plates such as sweet shrimp stewed in tomatoes and feta. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be shy about asking for guidance when it comes to the extensive list of Greek wines, yielding a lush Peloponnesian rosĂŠ, among other delicious finds.

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: HORIATIKI SALAD, WITH TOMATOES, CUCUMBERS, AND FETA; STUFFED GRAPE LEAVES; TARAMASALATA; SESAME-CRUSTED FETA WITH HONEY; BEEF MEATBALLS WITH TZATZIKI; CRUMBLED BAKLAVA WITH ICE CREAM. MODERATE.

www.metro29diner.com

THAI SQUARE â&#x20AC;&#x153;True Thaiâ&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Phyllis Richman, The Washington Post â&#x20AC;&#x153;Authentic Thai Cookingâ&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Cynthia Hacinli, Washingtonian Magazine

3217 Columbia Pike Arlington, VA 22204

(703) 685-7189, 7040

OKADA Japanese Restaurant &

Sushi Bar

One Loudoun 20357 Exchange St. Ashburn, VA 20147 703-723-3628

okadajapaneserestaurant.com

104

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95 REPUBLIC

6939 LAUREL AVE., TAKOMA PARK; 301-270-3000 Takoma Park has long been known for loud and lively debate, but until JeďŹ&#x20AC; Blackâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Republic arrived two years ago, it had never been known for loud and lively restaurantsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the kind where people crowd the bar and the din approximates that of a party at full volume. Few restaurants, including the other five places in Blackâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s portfolio, have even half as much character as this one, with its boudoir-like red booths, antique brass lamps, and a box radio by the host stand. The greatest rewards are the simplestâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a tray of perfectly shucked Skookum oysters from Washington state, a bowl of mussels

96 SER

1110 N. GLEBE RD., ARLINGTON; 703-746-9822 The crisp-skinned suckling pig at this Modern Spanish spot is one of the most compelling dishes around. Not just because itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tasty but because itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x153;carvedâ&#x20AC;? with the edge of a plate instead of a knife. Co-owner Javier Candon (his partner is Josu Zubikarai, formerly of Taberna del Alabardero) does the deed with both nonchalance and flair. Other offeringsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;charcuterie and cheese, tapas, and larger platesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have the pomp of the pig, but there are pleasures to be found. Classic small plates such as shrimp with a hit of garlic and cayenne or fried baby eels evoke tapas crawls in Madrid. So, too, the list of wines and sherries and a dining room splashed in Mediterranean oranges and yellows.

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: CHICKEN-AND-HAM CROQUETAS; GRILLED ANCHOVIES; PERCEBES (GOOSENECK BARNACLES); TORTILLA DE PATATAS (A POTATO OMELET); FRIED POTATO WEDGES; FRIED PADRĂ&#x201C;N PEPPERS WITH MALDON SALT; LAMB STEW; CORNISH GAME HEN WITH PINE NUTS; FLAN. MODERATE.

97 BLACK MARKET BISTRO

4600 WAVERLY AVE., GARRETT PARK; 301-933-3000 Jeff and Barbara Blackâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bistro isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t far from Bethesda, but it has an out-in-the-country vibe. And though itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a neighborhood gathering spot, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a destination for those seeking a tĂŞte-Ă -tĂŞte rather than a scene, along with easy-to-like food. Crackly-crust pizzas (the mushroom-pecorino is terrific) share space with Modern American plates such as a chewy-in-a-good-way hanger steak with chimichurri. Cake lovers will find their happy placeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;especially if the blackout cake is on the menu. Even though itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mated with Chantilly cream and chocolate sauce, we amp it up with ice cream.

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: GRILLED-SQUID SALAD WITH FETA; MUSSELS WITH SHALLOTS, PARSLEY, AND CHILIES; GRILLED SALMON WITH TEA RICE AND SESAME; ROAST CHICKEN; BURGER WITH CRISPY ONIONS; BEIGNETS; LATKES WITH HOUSE-MADE APPLESAUCE; EGGS BENEDICT WITH CURED SALMON AND AN ANGEL BISCUIT. MODERATE.

98 RUS UZ

1000 N. RANDOLPH ST., ARLINGTON; 571-312-4086 Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard to resist the Vodka Roulette at this Russian-Uzbeki restaurant: ten blind shots, ran-

domly culled from house-infused vodkas. (Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re hooked on the horseradish variety.) But share with friendsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;otherwise you might have to bail on chef/ owner Bakhitiyor Rakhmatulleavâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s robustly satisfying cooking. Among the many savory meat-indough startersâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;including good versions of bunlike pirozhki and fried half-moon cheburekiâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the flaky samsa with spiced lamb is the clear favorite (the restaurant has been known to run out). Uzbeki dishes tend to outshine the Russian offerings, which means that among the bigger plates, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll want to focus on manti, pillows of thin dough filled with minced lamb and drizzled with yogurt, or plov, a long-cooked rice dish studded with tender lamb, raisins, and carrots. For those inspired to DIY, the market next door carries many of the fixings for the foodâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and for infusing vodka.

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: LAMB-AND-CHICKPEA SOUP; SMOKED-FISH PLATE; BLINI WITH BEEF; â&#x20AC;&#x153;FISH UNDER A COATâ&#x20AC;? (HERRING WITH BEETS, POTATOES, EGGS, AND MAYONNAISE); CHICKEN KIEV; LAMB SHANK WITH ROASTED POTATOES. MODERATE.

99 PASSAGE TO INDIA

DUANGRATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

Voted Best Asian and

Best Thai Restaurant

THAI WEEKEND BRUNCH MENU AWARD WINNING SIGNATURE & TRADITIONAL DISHES

FRESH JUMBO SOFT-SHELLS LOBSTER & SEAFOOD

5878 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church 703-820-5775

Authentic Greek Cuisine 100 Very Best Restaurants Washingtonian Magazine 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015

703-760-0690 â&#x20AC;˘ 8100 Boone Blvd, Vienna, VA

Arlington McLean Washington DC www.legalseafoods.com

LITTLE SAIGON

Best TASTE of VIETNAM 6218-B Wilson Blvd Falls Church, VA (near 7-Corners, BJâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s) 703-536-2633 LittleSaigonCuisine1.com

6775 Wilson Boulevard, Falls Church, VA

Best crab cakes â&#x20AC;&#x201D;BALTIMORE MAGAZINE

FAMOUS VEAL CHOP! Featured In Zagat Guide Best Of Virginia â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Washingtonian

since 1992, seats 114

ricepaper-tasteofvietnam.com 703-538-3888

4931 CORDELL AVE., BETHESDA; 301-656-3373 Allow us a moment, please, to praise the thoughtful civility of this dining room: the soft ragas on the sound system, the tables laid with crisp cloth, the sense that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve gotten away from it all. None of this would mean very much if it werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t for the quality of the food, which, when the kitchen is on, has a subtlety and nuance missing in the competition. A curry here isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t merely an excuse to bring the heat but to treat you to the full range of eďŹ&#x20AC;ects that come from proper, layered spicing. And there are flavors and combinations you simply wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find anywhere else in the area, with dishes drawn from all across the subcontinent.

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: PICKLE PLATE; TANDOORI LAMB; SEV-MURMURA CHAAT, A PUFFED-RICE SALAD; SHRIMP IN COCONUT CURRY; LAMB STEW WITH APRICOTS; KARWARI PRAWN CURRY; SPINACH WITH BUTTERMILK AND BLACK SALT; CHICKPEA ROTI. MODERATE.

a nautical Cheers â&#x20AC;&#x201D;WASHINGTONIAN

400 Fourth St Annapolis, MD boatyardbarandgrill.com 410.216.6206

BUTCHER - DELI - GROCERY - CATERING

THAI T HA I R RESTAURANT ESTAURANT Country-style cuisine by Duangratâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 5892 Leesburg Pike, Baileyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s X Rd, VA

703-671-4222

locNow at 2 ion s!

Thai CuisiNe

8142 Watson St â&#x20AC;˘ McLean â&#x20AC;˘ 703.356.228 8 11964 Market St â&#x20AC;˘ Reston Town Ctr â&#x20AC;˘ 703.435.4188

1401 T ST., NW; 202-827-4752

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: PACCHERI CARBONARA WITH SEAFOOD; GARGANELLI WITH RABBIT RAGU; GRILLED BRANZINO; SIRLOIN WITH ARUGULA PESTO; BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH MORTADELLA; CRISPY POLENTA; COFFEE ICE CREAM WITH W NUTELLA; â&#x20AC;&#x153;RYE BANDITâ&#x20AC;? COCKTAIL. EXPENSIVE.

OPEN 7 DAYS, MON-SAT, 10-8; SUN, 11-6 1425 28TH STREET NW, GEORGETOWN 202-506-3125 WWW.STACHOWSKIMARKET.COM

BUSARA

100 LUPO VERDE

With its tucked-away alcoves and ruddy brick walls, this rowhouse is one of the more romantic addresses in the 14th Street corridor. But itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not just about atmosphere. There are excellent cocktails, especially if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a fan of herbal flavors and amari; a prodigious roster of Italian meats and cheeses, including obscurities such as salty Moliterno cheese from Basilicata; and a wealth of fresh pastas. We like to kick things oďŹ&#x20AC; with cipolla, a grilled onion stuďŹ&#x20AC;ed with a gooey â&#x20AC;&#x153;fondueâ&#x20AC;? of cheeses studded with olives. Bread comes with it, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the sort of thing that begs for a spoon.

Serving Herndon for 25 years

703-318-7000 â&#x20AC;˘ Private Parties â&#x20AC;˘ Open 7 Days 728 Pine St, Herndon, VA â&#x20AC;˘ zeffirelliristorante.com

Washington D.C. 600 13th St. NW 202.347.1500 www.MastrosRestaurants.com

T H E M A G A Z I N E WA S H I N G T O N L I V E S B Y

â&#x2DC;&#x2026;

Founded in 1965

DISTINCTIVE & AROMATIC THAI CUISINE

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Best Bargain Restaurantâ&#x20AC;?

Washingtonian Magazine, 1994 - 2001

4819 ARLINGTON BLVD AT PARK DR â&#x20AC;˘ ARLINGTON, VA www.crystalthai.com

(7 0 3 )

5 2 2 - 13 11

F EBRUA RY 2 0 1 6 â&#x2DC;&#x2026; WAS H I N G TO N I A N

105

Top 5 Romantic Restaurants in the US

93 COMPASS ROSE

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: GOAT-CHEESE CROSTINI; FALAFEL PLATTER; BRICK CHICKEN WITH CHORIZO; PAN-ROASTED SWORDFISH; CHOCOLATE-SALTED CARAMEL TART; APPLE-PIE DOUGHNUT. MODERATE.

www.theprimerib.com

202-466-8811 â&#x20AC;˘ 2020 K St. NW â&#x20AC;˘ Free Valet Pkg

r XXX PMETUFJO JOO DPN

Vietnam without jet lag!

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS: BOQUERONES; KHACHAPURI (A FLATBREAD WITH CHEESE, EGG, AND BUTTER); TUNISIAN CHICKEN SKEWERS; KOREAN PORK RIBS; CURRYWURST. MODERATE.

94 NOSTOS

edencenter.com

Georgetown 1522 Wisconsin Ave Bistro â?Ś CrĂŞperie â?Ś Bar â?Ś Cafe 202.333.8830

4711 Lee Highway Arlington, VA 22207 703-528-2464

www.metro29diner.com

3217 Columbia Pike Arlington, VA 22204

(703) 685-7189, 7040

OKADA Japanese Restaurant &

Sushi Bar

One Loudoun 20357 Exchange St. Ashburn, VA 20147 703-723-3628

okadajapaneserestaurant.com

104

WAS H I N G TO N I A N â&#x2DC;&#x2026; FEBR UA RY 2 0 1 6

95 REPUBLIC

96 SER

97 BLACK MARKET BISTRO

98 RUS UZ

1000 N. RANDOLPH ST., ARLINGTON; 571-312-4086 Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard to resist the Vodka Roulette at this Russian-Uzbeki restaurant: ten blind shots, ran-

99 PASSAGE TO INDIA

DUANGRATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

Voted Best Asian and

Best Thai Restaurant

THAI WEEKEND BRUNCH MENU AWARD WINNING SIGNATURE & TRADITIONAL DISHES

FRESH JUMBO SOFT-SHELLS LOBSTER & SEAFOOD

5878 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church 703-820-5775

Authentic Greek Cuisine 100 Very Best Restaurants Washingtonian Magazine 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015

703-760-0690 â&#x20AC;˘ 8100 Boone Blvd, Vienna, VA

Arlington McLean Washington DC www.legalseafoods.com

LITTLE SAIGON

Best TASTE of VIETNAM 6218-B Wilson Blvd Falls Church, VA (near 7-Corners, BJâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s) 703-536-2633 LittleSaigonCuisine1.com

6775 Wilson Boulevard, Falls Church, VA

Best crab cakes â&#x20AC;&#x201D;BALTIMORE MAGAZINE

FAMOUS VEAL CHOP! Featured In Zagat Guide Best Of Virginia â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Washingtonian

since 1992, seats 114

ricepaper-tasteofvietnam.com 703-538-3888

a nautical Cheers â&#x20AC;&#x201D;WASHINGTONIAN

400 Fourth St Annapolis, MD boatyardbarandgrill.com 410.216.6206

BUTCHER - DELI - GROCERY - CATERING

THAI T HA I R RESTAURANT ESTAURANT Country-style cuisine by Duangratâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 5892 Leesburg Pike, Baileyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s X Rd, VA

703-671-4222

locNow at 2 ion s!

Thai CuisiNe

8142 Watson St â&#x20AC;˘ McLean â&#x20AC;˘ 703.356.228 8 11964 Market St â&#x20AC;˘ Reston Town Ctr â&#x20AC;˘ 703.435.4188

1401 T ST., NW; 202-827-4752

OPEN 7 DAYS, MON-SAT, 10-8; SUN, 11-6 1425 28TH STREET NW, GEORGETOWN 202-506-3125 WWW.STACHOWSKIMARKET.COM

BUSARA

100 LUPO VERDE

Serving Herndon for 25 years

703-318-7000 â&#x20AC;˘ Private Parties â&#x20AC;˘ Open 7 Days 728 Pine St, Herndon, VA â&#x20AC;˘ zeffirelliristorante.com

Washington D.C. 600 13th St. NW 202.347.1500 www.MastrosRestaurants.com

T H E M A G A Z I N E WA S H I N G T O N L I V E S B Y

â&#x2DC;&#x2026;

Founded in 1965

DISTINCTIVE & AROMATIC THAI CUISINE

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Best Bargain Restaurantâ&#x20AC;?

Washingtonian Magazine, 1994 - 2001

4819 ARLINGTON BLVD AT PARK DR â&#x20AC;˘ ARLINGTON, VA www.crystalthai.com

(7 0 3 )

5 2 2 - 13 11

F EBRUA RY 2 0 1 6 â&#x2DC;&#x2026; WAS H I N G TO N I A N

105

M S

G G N

Illustrations by Chris Ballasiotes

RNI O

Over-the-top brunches, drippy egg sandwiches, the best cinnamon roll we’ve ever tasted, and 62 more of our favorite ways to start the day

R LO IE

Photographs by Scott Suchman

WAS H I N G TO N I A N ★ OCTOBER 2 0 1 6

Convivial’s cinnamon buns

O C TO BE R 2 0 1 6 ★ WAS H I N G TO N I A N

M S

G G N

Illustrations by Chris Ballasiotes

RNI O

Over-the-top brunches, drippy egg sandwiches, the best cinnamon roll we’ve ever tasted, and 62 more of our favorite ways to start the day

R LO IE

Photographs by Scott Suchman

WAS H I N G TO N I A N ★ OCTOBER 2 0 1 6

Convivial’s cinnamon buns

O C TO BE R 2 0 1 6 ★ WAS H I N G TO N I A N

let’s go out for

They make the best grab-and-go meals. Breakfast sandwiches are typically sloppy aﬀairs, with their runny egg yolks

or oozing cream cheese. So pastry chefs have found a more portable solution: breakfast “bombs.” Cousin to Texan kolaches, the balls of dough come

Small-plate brunches are all over the place these days, but some weekend mornings call for an overflowing plate of food. Duke’s Grocery (1513 17th St., NW) delivers with its full English breakfast, loaded with rashers (bacon), a banger (sausage), black pudding (blood sausage), roasted cherry tomatoes, braised mushrooms, and two eggs over baked beans and thick pieces of toast. Don’t want meat? The veggie version subs in a chivepotato cake called a boxty.

WAS H I N G TO N I A N ★ OCTOBER 2 0 1 6

The Pancake Price Index

How much will a plain (or buttermilk) stack run you around town? FLORIDA AVENUE GRILL, $4.50 BOB & EDITH’S DINER, $5.99 AMERICAN CITY DINER, $6.95 FOUNDING FARMERS TYSONS, $7 METRO 29 DINER, $9 TED’S BULLETIN, $10.49 BLACK MARKET BISTRO, $12 MARCEL’S, $15 KINGBIRD, $16 WESTEND BISTRO, $17

scrambled eggs and a rotating variety of meats, such as maple sausage with fontina or poblano sausage with pepperjack. A close second: the ba-

Especially the one made by Alex Levin. At Osteria Morini (301 Water St., SE), we wouldn’t dream of skipping dessert, thanks to pastry chef Alex Levin, who has been responsible for the place’s grand finales since it opened three years ago. So it goes on weekend mornings, when his warm pastry basket is the must-order. The oft-changing selection of three sweets and savories has included dark-chocolate Danishes, salted-caramel sticky buns, and warm brioche rolls with ramp pesto and ricotta. Whether you follow it with pasta is up to you—we won’t judge.

gel bomb at Momofuku Milk Bar (1090 I St., NW), with smoky-bacon/scallion cream cheese inside and everything-bagel spice outside.

PASTRY

BA BASKETS

ENGLISH BREAKFASTS

Where to find a proper plate.

stuﬀed with all kinds of goodies. Buttercream Bakeshop (1250 Ninth St., NW) supplies one of the best versions around. Warm milk-bread envelops

Pancakes

BREAKFAST BOMBS

These will make your mom jealous. Michael Abt, executive chef at Le Diplomate (1601 14th St., NW), has been carrying this recipe with him ever since he worked at sister restaurant Parc, in Philadelphia. For good reason— his pancakes are the fluﬃest we’ve ever tasted, somehow more flavorful than the ones we whip up at home but still comfortingly familiar. Abt’s secrets: not over-whisking the buttermilk batter, so the inflating pockets of baking powder don’t get beaten out, plus adding dashes of vanilla, honey, and salt. The kitchen will throw in blueberries or chocolate chips if you ask—and will also serve a single pancake, so even if you’re set on ordering the Eggs Norwegian, you can still satisfy a craving.

O C TO BE R 2 0 1 6 ★ WAS H I N G TO N I A N

let’s go out for

They make the best grab-and-go meals. Breakfast sandwiches are typically sloppy aﬀairs, with their runny egg yolks

or oozing cream cheese. So pastry chefs have found a more portable solution: breakfast “bombs.” Cousin to Texan kolaches, the balls of dough come

WAS H I N G TO N I A N ★ OCTOBER 2 0 1 6

The Pancake Price Index

scrambled eggs and a rotating variety of meats, such as maple sausage with fontina or poblano sausage with pepperjack. A close second: the ba-

gel bomb at Momofuku Milk Bar (1090 I St., NW), with smoky-bacon/scallion cream cheese inside and everything-bagel spice outside.

PASTRY

BA BASKETS

ENGLISH BREAKFASTS

Where to find a proper plate.

stuﬀed with all kinds of goodies. Buttercream Bakeshop (1250 Ninth St., NW) supplies one of the best versions around. Warm milk-bread envelops

Pancakes

BREAKFAST BOMBS

O C TO BE R 2 0 1 6 ★ WAS H I N G TO N I A N

let’s go out for

CINNAMON

BUNS

A no-tricks recipe turns out to be magic. We weren’t expecting cinnamon-bun greatness when we brunched at Convivial (801 O St., NW), better known for its fried chicken and deliciously messy burgers. But pastry chef Eva Kronenberg’s straightforward recipe—the only curve ball is a little dark rum in the creamcheese icing—succeeds because it’s not afraid of excess. The buns, baked every weekend morning, are big enough for two and coiled with a wonderfully ridiculous amount of brown sugar, butter, and cinnamon.

Breakfast Pizza

Fresh from the Dupont farmers market.

What goes into our favorite breakfast pie, courtesy of the mobile woodfired-pizza business Red Zebra? A whole lot of local ingredients culled from fellow vendors at Dupont Circle’s FreshFarm Market (20th St. and Massachusetts Ave., NW), where you’ll find the oven parked on Sundays.

CHEAP

BOOZE

NITRO COFFEE It’s suddenly everywhere. Guinness beer may be the most famous nitrogenated beverage, but the coffee community is quickly catching on. The “nitro” cold-brew method—coffee grounds are steeped in cold water, then the

extra-strong result is infused with nitrogen gas—lends your morning joe a creamier, richer feel with micro-bubbles and a foamy head. In the past year or two, nearly every serious coﬀee shop in town—including Dolcezza (multiple area locations), Zeke’s (2300 Rhode

WAS H I N G TO N I A N ★ OCTOBER 2 0 1 6

Island Ave., NE), and Compass Coffee (1535 Seventh St., NW)—has begun pouring the stuff on draft. You can also get it canned thanks to the local “craft coffee brewery” Confluence Coffee Co. (available at area Whole Foods and other markets).

. . . doesn’t have to mean lousy bottomless bubbly. At the Riggsby (1731 New Hampshire Ave., NW), diners can pair a lavish shellfish tower with half-price bottles of sparkling wine that range from walletfriendly Prosecco to vintage Tattinger. Brunchers at Casa Luca (1099 New York Ave., NW) sip half-oﬀ Prosecco from Italy’s Veneto region ($34) and can opt for fresh-fruit purées such as peach

and passionfruit for DIY Bellinis. Pitchers of red-wine sangría Bellinis mixed with Cava ($35) ease groups into siesta mode along with Spanish fare at Ser (1110 N. Glebe Rd., Arlington). Want to play bartender? Try the American brasserie Pennsylvania 6 (1350 I St., NW), which devotes an entire room to its unlimited mimosaand–Bloody Mary bar ($18) with elixirs and juices for the former and, of course, bacon for the latter.

Lightly charred sweet potatoes from Tree and Leaf Farm in Virginia add subtle sweetness.

The secret to runny yolks? Organic eggs from Farm at Sunnyside are slow-cooked in a sous-vide machine, then cracked atop the pies to order.

“I could say it’s Neapolitan style, but I don’t really care about that,” says co-owner Susan Painter of the crust. Its dough ferments for 36 hours.

The only topping you won’t find at a nearby stall: smoky Benton’s bacon from Tennessee. Vegetarians can ask for “bacon” made with Virginia shiitakes.

White cheddar from Pennsylvania’s Keswick Creamery provides the melty finish.

O C TO BE R 2 0 1 6 ★ WAS H I N G TO N I A N

let’s go out for

CINNAMON

BUNS

Breakfast Pizza

Fresh from the Dupont farmers market.

CHEAP

BOOZE

WAS H I N G TO N I A N ★ OCTOBER 2 0 1 6

Lightly charred sweet potatoes from Tree and Leaf Farm in Virginia add subtle sweetness.

The secret to runny yolks? Organic eggs from Farm at Sunnyside are slow-cooked in a sous-vide machine, then cracked atop the pies to order.

“I could say it’s Neapolitan style, but I don’t really care about that,” says co-owner Susan Painter of the crust. Its dough ferments for 36 hours.

The only topping you won’t find at a nearby stall: smoky Benton’s bacon from Tennessee. Vegetarians can ask for “bacon” made with Virginia shiitakes.

White cheddar from Pennsylvania’s Keswick Creamery provides the melty finish.

O C TO BE R 2 0 1 6 ★ WAS H I N G TO N I A N

SATURDAY, 10:06 AM: Inside the room that holds dinnerware. During a single brunch, 2,350 Bernardaud plates are typically used.

SUNDAY, 7:06 AM: Douglas Anderson (far right) consults with his brigade during the pre-shift meeting.

SATURDAY, 11:02 AM: Executive chef Douglas Anderson uses an old Scottish family recipe to cure and smoke Atlantic salmon.

SUNDAY, 8:24 AM: Chilling Italian sparkling wine for mimosas, the most popular morning cocktail. The bar mixes around 480 every Sunday.

Behind the Scenes at DC’s

SATURDAY, 12:02 PM: Brunch cooks get “family meal,” too. Here, they pre-game with tacos made by cook Taurino Chavez-Perez (left).

SUNDAY, 9:36 AM: Snow-crab claws, Wellfleet and Blue Point oysters, and shrimp cocktail are readied for the lavish raw bar.

SATURDAY, 12:10 PM: A pastry cook uses an industrial spray gun to cover mango-mousse cups with yellowtinted chocolate.

SUNDAY, 10:05 AM: Setting up the Willy Wonka–like dessert room, where diners graze on 27 sweets, including macarons and s’mores.

Most Expensive Brunch 92

WAS H I N G TO N I A N ★ OCTOBER 2 0 1 6

Here’s what goes into the $85-aperson, all-youcan-eat (and drink) Sunday spread at Georgetown’s Four Seasons Hotel

O C TO BE R 2 0 1 6 ★ WAS H I N G TO N I A N

SATURDAY, 10:06 AM: Inside the room that holds dinnerware. During a single brunch, 2,350 Bernardaud plates are typically used.

SUNDAY, 7:06 AM: Douglas Anderson (far right) consults with his brigade during the pre-shift meeting.

SATURDAY, 11:02 AM: Executive chef Douglas Anderson uses an old Scottish family recipe to cure and smoke Atlantic salmon.

SUNDAY, 8:24 AM: Chilling Italian sparkling wine for mimosas, the most popular morning cocktail. The bar mixes around 480 every Sunday.

Behind the Scenes at DC’s

SATURDAY, 12:02 PM: Brunch cooks get “family meal,” too. Here, they pre-game with tacos made by cook Taurino Chavez-Perez (left).

SUNDAY, 9:36 AM: Snow-crab claws, Wellfleet and Blue Point oysters, and shrimp cocktail are readied for the lavish raw bar.

SATURDAY, 12:10 PM: A pastry cook uses an industrial spray gun to cover mango-mousse cups with yellowtinted chocolate.

SUNDAY, 10:05 AM: Setting up the Willy Wonka–like dessert room, where diners graze on 27 sweets, including macarons and s’mores.

Most Expensive Brunch 92

WAS H I N G TO N I A N ★ OCTOBER 2 0 1 6

Here’s what goes into the $85-aperson, all-youcan-eat (and drink) Sunday spread at Georgetown’s Four Seasons Hotel

O C TO BE R 2 0 1 6 ★ WAS H I N G TO N I A N

EATS

FINE

MEXICAN

let’s go out for

Rasika West End

DINING

WAS H I N G TO N I A N ★ OCTOBER 2 0 1 6

Three Mexican-style fillups we love: Tostada at Republic (6939 Laurel Ave., Takoma

Park): Layer upon layer of excess, in the best possible way. Corn tortillas are smothered in baconbraised red beans and barbecue pork, topped with coleslaw, and finished with poached eggs.

Biscuit Sandwiches They’re on the rise. No disrespect to the everything bagel, but we’ve come to realize that the best base for your egg sando is a buttermilk biscuit. We’ll happily abide by a little messiness in favor of a tender, salty round, especially if it’s

Kouign-amann After many years stalking the sweet at bakeries in New York and San Francisco, we’re thrilled we now don’t have to travel

far to get our morning fix. Never had one? Picture a spiral of stretchy dough made with what tastes like a pound of butter, then burnished with lots of sugar. Our favorite is at Union Market’s

You can have o o t a side of vinyl. At Adams Morgan’s funky Songbyrd Record Cafe (2475 18th St., NW), browse more than 600 records—the collection runs strong on soul and funk— while sipping a locally roasted Swing’s coﬀee and noshing on $5 build-your-own egg sandwiches. Or, cut your own record in a retro Voice-o-Graph machine.

Panorama Bakery (1309 Fifth St., NE), where pastry chef Damien Le Tyrant oﬀers a beautiful traditional version but also crowns some with apples and, even better, blueberries.

With blond wood and a concrete floor, Bump ’n Grind (1200 EastWest Hwy., Silver Spring) has the feel of a Logan Circle loft. The breakfast pastries may be beside the point, but there’s plenty of good coﬀee (from roasters Vigilante and Ceremony). Listening stations let you spin records for your own ears, or you can choose something to play for the whole place from a bin of dance and drum ’n’ bass selections.

PHOTOGRAPH OF BARBER BY ETHAN MILLER/GETTY IMAGES; WEMPLE BY BILL O’LEARY/WASHINGTON POST; LEDECKY BY LONG PHOTOGRAPHY

The Breton pastry fina

made by Nicole Jones at Stomping Ground (2309 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria). Our favorite DIY creation: a layering of bacon, egg, and sweet sorghum butter. At Society Fair (277 S. Washington St., Alexandria), biscuits stand up well to zesty house-made sausage.

Huaraches at Espita Mezcaleria (1250 Ninth St., NW): Named after a style of sandal, the masa cakes are a staple in Mexico City. At this Shaw mezcaleria, Oaxacan corn is ground for dough that’s

SMOKED

FISH

Jacques’ Brasserie (332 Springvale Rd., Great Falls): Haven’t seen crepes suzette since the ’80s? Then you haven’t been to the downstairs dining room at L’Auberge Chez François, which serves a lovely version of the Grand Marnier–soaked sweet. You’ll also find cracker-crisp tarts with bacon and onion (we’d skip the lily-gilding hollandaise and poached egg), gracious service, and the garlic bread and herbed cottage cheese that make up one of the best breadbaskets around. Marcel’s (2401 Pennsylvania Ave., NW): Robert Wiedmaier’s Belgian restaurant launched its à la carte Sunday brunch last winter. It’s as luxurious as dinner, with suited servers proﬀering velvety mussels gratin and Belgian waﬄes with Chantilly cream. Oenophiles, take note: All bottles in the expansive cellar, including $1,000plus Champagnes, are half price during brunch. Pineapple and Pearls (715 Eighth St., SE): By night, it’s the hottest

tasting-menu reservation in town; by day though, you can wander into Aaron Silverman’s chill coﬀee shop whenever you please and pick from a short list of breakfast treats: a salmon-and-avocado sandwich loaded with fennel and fresh herbs, say, or an iced sweet roll studded with pineapple. Preserve (164 Main St., Annapolis): Chef/ owner Jeremy Hoﬀman’s Pennsylvania Dutch upbringing serves him particularly well at brunch, when he puts out strapping chicken pot pies and plates of bologna hash dashed with hollandaise. Don’t skip the Tandy cake, a layering of sponge cake, peanut butter, and chocolate frosting. Rasika West End (1190 New Hampshire Ave., NW): Big tables of Indian families crowd the dining room on Sunday mornings for Vikram Sunderam’s elegant curries (go for the cilantro-heavy green version with chicken); pancakes made with coconut and cardamom; and poha, a tower of rice, mustard seeds, and crab. Nice touch: Mocktails, such as a passionfruit punch, are just as smartly conceived as the boozy options.

MUSIC

These high-end restaurants aren’t phoning in breakfast and brunch.

Chefs are thinking beyond the breakfast burrito.

stuﬀed with spicy black beans, then topped with lettuce, queso fresco, pickled jalapeños, and a must-try addition: green chorizo. Breakfast sope at Taco Bamba (2190 Pimmit Dr.,

Made in DC! For nearly three decades, the wholesaler Profish has supplied many of the area’s top restaurants with seafood. Last year, it also got into the smoked-fish business with the launch of Ivy City Smokehouse, across the street from its warehouse. You can sample a very small portion of the 5,000 pounds of fish the facility currently smokes

Falls Church; 164 Maple Ave. W., Vienna): Victor Albisu’s breakfast version of the sope—a thin, fried round of masa loaded with earthy black beans, salsa verde, crema, and a fried egg—is available all day.

per day at the Tavern at Ivy City Smokehouse (1356 Okie St., NE), upstairs. The $22 fish board for two comes loaded with bagels, whitefish salad, rainbow trout, cold-smoked salmon, and best of all, “Indian candy”—a Pacific Northwest–style salmon bathed in honey and brown sugar. Like what you tried? Head to the market downstairs and pick up some to go.

WHAT’S FOR BREAKFAST?

KATIE LEDECKY

ANGIE GOFF

ERIK WEMPLE

KHEPRA ANU

OLYMPIC GOLD MEDALIST

NBC4 ANCHOR

WASHINGTON POST

OWNER OF KHEPRA’S RAW FOOD JUICE BAR

DESHAUNA BARBER MISS USA

“I usually eat three slices of French toast, three scrambled eggs, a banana, and a glass of orange juice.”

“Following my morning swim practice, one of my favorite breakfasts is a cheese-bacon-andtomato omelet from Ize’s in Rockville, along with a plain bagel with butter and some hash browns. For a beverage, I have chocolate milk.”

“Can I get some scrambled eggs with my hot sauce? I love to douse the plate to the point where my eyes water just smelling it. I drink coﬀee from the moment I wake up until bedtime—always black and with a straw. Six cups is an average day.”

MEDIA WRITER

“My principle is that breakfast—as well as lunch—is no time for anything that tastes good. It’s a time to shovel fuel into the highly ineﬃcient human body. I go with Greek yogurt with walnuts and perhaps some fruit, if it’s around. Maybe oatmeal, no sugar. Bagel once a week.”

“Coconut water! Breakfast is breaking your overnight fast, and the worst way to do that is with starchy foods and caﬀeinated beverages. Even options like protein smoothies are overrated, as our digestive systems are not yet ready to break down and assimilate protein until lunchtime.”

O C TO BE R 2 0 1 6 ★ WAS H I N G TO N I A N

EATS

FINE

MEXICAN

let’s go out for

Rasika West End

DINING

WAS H I N G TO N I A N ★ OCTOBER 2 0 1 6

Three Mexican-style fillups we love: Tostada at Republic (6939 Laurel Ave., Takoma

Park): Layer upon layer of excess, in the best possible way. Corn tortillas are smothered in baconbraised red beans and barbecue pork, topped with coleslaw, and finished with poached eggs.

Kouign-amann After many years stalking the sweet at bakeries in New York and San Francisco, we’re thrilled we now don’t have to travel

far to get our morning fix. Never had one? Picture a spiral of stretchy dough made with what tastes like a pound of butter, then burnished with lots of sugar. Our favorite is at Union Market’s

Panorama Bakery (1309 Fifth St., NE), where pastry chef Damien Le Tyrant oﬀers a beautiful traditional version but also crowns some with apples and, even better, blueberries.

PHOTOGRAPH OF BARBER BY ETHAN MILLER/GETTY IMAGES; WEMPLE BY BILL O’LEARY/WASHINGTON POST; LEDECKY BY LONG PHOTOGRAPHY

The Breton pastry fina

Huaraches at Espita Mezcaleria (1250 Ninth St., NW): Named after a style of sandal, the masa cakes are a staple in Mexico City. At this Shaw mezcaleria, Oaxacan corn is ground for dough that’s

SMOKED

FISH

MUSIC

These high-end restaurants aren’t phoning in breakfast and brunch.

Chefs are thinking beyond the breakfast burrito.

stuﬀed with spicy black beans, then topped with lettuce, queso fresco, pickled jalapeños, and a must-try addition: green chorizo. Breakfast sope at Taco Bamba (2190 Pimmit Dr.,

WHAT’S FOR BREAKFAST?

KATIE LEDECKY

ANGIE GOFF

ERIK WEMPLE

KHEPRA ANU

OLYMPIC GOLD MEDALIST

NBC4 ANCHOR

WASHINGTON POST

OWNER OF KHEPRA’S RAW FOOD JUICE BAR

DESHAUNA BARBER MISS USA

“I usually eat three slices of French toast, three scrambled eggs, a banana, and a glass of orange juice.”

MEDIA WRITER

O C TO BE R 2 0 1 6 ★ WAS H I N G TO N I A N

let’s go out for

DimSum There are feasts for many tastes (and budgets). Traditional Cantonese dim sum is a daily event at the year-old Gourmet Inspirations (2646 University Blvd., Silver Spring), which inherited the head kitchen staﬀ of Good Fortune after its 30-year run. It’s worth saving a visit for weekends, when food carts laden with steamed buns, black-beansauced chicken feet, and savory domes of Eight Treasure sticky rice circle the banquet-halllike room. Sundays at the Cambodian/Taiwanese small-plates spot Maketto (1351 H St., NE), the palm-filled patio draws crowds of dumpling-seekers. The steamed leek and pork

Hybrid Pastries

Look beyond the Cronut. A few of our favorite inventions:

CINNASCONE

DOUGHNUT MUFFIN

EVERYTHING CROISSANT

CRUFFIN

buns and carameldoused fried chicken from the dinner menu are on oﬀer, but you’d do well to branch out for plates of rice-noodle crepes, numbingly spicy cucumbers, and a classic egg tart made by pastry chef Rebekka Baltzell. Nearly everything pops with flavor. If you’re up for shelling out more cash than your typical dim sum brunch calls for, head to the Source (575 Pennsylvania Ave., NW) on a Saturday afternoon, when we’ve never seen the minimalist upstairs dining room so packed. Forty bucks gets you five dishes, and $56 buys eight. Load up on dumplings—a delicate lobster version, a heartier brisket purse—and don’t miss the fabulous turnip cakes with sweet soy.

SCONE

A Cinnabon-size knob of buttermilk dough laced with cinnamon and sugar, at Buttercream Bakeshop (1250 Ninth St., NW).

MUFFIN

A baked cinnamon confection dusted with crunchy cinnamon and sugar, at Baked & Wired (1052 Thomas Jeﬀerson St., NW).

EVERYTHING BAGEL

CROISSANT

A buttery swirl with poppy seeds, garlic, onion, and salt, at Junction Bakery & Bistro (1508 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria).

A Friday-only croissant roll-up stuﬀed with praline pastry cream, at Bayou Bakery (1515 N. Courthouse Rd., Arlington; 901 Pennsylvania Ave., SE).

Still drinking your smoothie out of a glass? Time to get with the latest California craze to migrate east—superfood bowls. The smoothie bases, topped with granola and fresh fruit, are much tastier than other yoga-crowd culinary fads (ahem, activated charcoal juice). Traditional varieties highlight antioxidant-rich

açai berries or fuchsia-hued dragonfruit. At the Foggy Bottom location of coldpressed-juice purveyor Jrink (1922 I St., NW), Blue Majik algae adds a turquoise tint to the pineapple-and-banana-based Ocean Blue bowl, topped with cacao nibs, strawberries, coconut chips, hemp seeds, and toasted oats. We’ve also found solid açai fixes at Fruitive (1094 Palmer Alley, NW) and South Block Juice Co. (multiple DC and Virginia locations).

3. Forget chocolate-chip pancakes—waﬄes have gone wild. Order:

4. The following combination is not a dish designed to cure hangovers:

5. Bartenders love crazy spins on Bloody Marys. We’ve sipped:

A. Brisket waﬄes (“braffles”) at Hill Country.

1. Driftwood Kitchen on H Street, Northeast, took boozy brunch to the next level with:

2. Bottomless brunch—it’s not just the drinks. Patrons are known to shed clothing at:

B. Sweetbread waﬄes (“woﬀals”) at Bastille.

A. Waﬄe made of tater tots, topped with a beef patty, bacon, fried eggs, cheddar, and bourbon syrup.

A. A Chinese Bloody with beef-hot-pot broth and a dumpling shooter.

A. Spiked chocolate milk.

A. The Handsome Cock.

B. Spiked tisanes.

B. La Boum at Capitale.

C. Spiked cereal.

C. Meat in a Box.

Quiz Time!

CROISSANT

MUFFIN

Actually, they can be pretty delicious.

1 DOUGHNUT

SUPERFOOD BOWLS

Spot the real brunch trends amid the fakes

CINNAMON BUN

Jrink’s Ocean Blue bowl

C. Chorizo-chocolatemaple-bacon-beer waﬄes (“the waﬄe of shame”) at B Too.

B. Nest made of French fries, topped with a beef patty, bacon, fried eggs, cheddar, and spicy ranch. C. Pizza made of grilled cheese, topped with a beef patty, bacon, fried eggs, cheddar, and Xanax.

B. A Southern Bloody with moonshine, garnished with pimiento-cheese olives, bacon, and shrimp. C. A Peruvian Bloody with pisco, fish stock, and squid ink, garnished with an octopus tentacle.

ANSWERS 1: C. Fruity Pebbles and gin, together at last. (No surprise—the run was short.) 2: B. Deejays + free-flowing bubbles + drawn shades = debrunchery. 3: C. It’ll cost you $20, plus the price of your dignity and some antacid. 4: C. Only in our dreams. Find A at the Foggy Bottom location of Tonic, B at Mintwood Place. 5: Trick question. All of the above, from (A) the Source, (B) Tupelo Honey Cafe, and (C) Del Campo.

Photograph by Jeff Elkins

WAS H I N G TO N I A N ★ OCTOBER 2 0 1 6

O C TO BE R 2 0 1 6 ★ WAS H I N G TO N I A N

let’s go out for

Hybrid Pastries

Look beyond the Cronut. A few of our favorite inventions:

CINNASCONE

DOUGHNUT MUFFIN

EVERYTHING CROISSANT

CRUFFIN

SCONE

A Cinnabon-size knob of buttermilk dough laced with cinnamon and sugar, at Buttercream Bakeshop (1250 Ninth St., NW).

MUFFIN

A baked cinnamon confection dusted with crunchy cinnamon and sugar, at Baked & Wired (1052 Thomas Jeﬀerson St., NW).

EVERYTHING BAGEL

CROISSANT

A buttery swirl with poppy seeds, garlic, onion, and salt, at Junction Bakery & Bistro (1508 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria).

A Friday-only croissant roll-up stuﬀed with praline pastry cream, at Bayou Bakery (1515 N. Courthouse Rd., Arlington; 901 Pennsylvania Ave., SE).

3. Forget chocolate-chip pancakes—waﬄes have gone wild. Order:

4. The following combination is not a dish designed to cure hangovers:

5. Bartenders love crazy spins on Bloody Marys. We’ve sipped:

A. Brisket waﬄes (“braffles”) at Hill Country.

1. Driftwood Kitchen on H Street, Northeast, took boozy brunch to the next level with:

2. Bottomless brunch—it’s not just the drinks. Patrons are known to shed clothing at:

B. Sweetbread waﬄes (“woﬀals”) at Bastille.

A. Waﬄe made of tater tots, topped with a beef patty, bacon, fried eggs, cheddar, and bourbon syrup.

A. A Chinese Bloody with beef-hot-pot broth and a dumpling shooter.

A. Spiked chocolate milk.

A. The Handsome Cock.

B. Spiked tisanes.

B. La Boum at Capitale.

C. Spiked cereal.

C. Meat in a Box.

Quiz Time!

CROISSANT

MUFFIN

Actually, they can be pretty delicious.

1 DOUGHNUT

SUPERFOOD BOWLS

Spot the real brunch trends amid the fakes

CINNAMON BUN

Jrink’s Ocean Blue bowl

C. Chorizo-chocolatemaple-bacon-beer waﬄes (“the waﬄe of shame”) at B Too.

B. Nest made of French fries, topped with a beef patty, bacon, fried eggs, cheddar, and spicy ranch. C. Pizza made of grilled cheese, topped with a beef patty, bacon, fried eggs, cheddar, and Xanax.

B. A Southern Bloody with moonshine, garnished with pimiento-cheese olives, bacon, and shrimp. C. A Peruvian Bloody with pisco, fish stock, and squid ink, garnished with an octopus tentacle.

Photograph by Jeff Elkins

WAS H I N G TO N I A N ★ OCTOBER 2 0 1 6

O C TO BE R 2 0 1 6 ★ WAS H I N G TO N I A N

quiz

PRIX FIXE

let’s go out for

MENUS

Some really are good deals.

hollandaise; lemongrass steak with vermicelli.

Fixed-price menus aren’t always worth the money—dish options can be limited, and flagging down the server during some all-you-can-eat brunches can feel trickier than getting a retweet from FLOTUS. Not so at these restaurants.

The place: Central Michel Richard (1001 Pennsylvania Ave., NW). The price: $27 for three courses. Don’t miss: Goatcheese Caesar salad; fried chicken and waﬄes; lemon “eggceptional.”

The place: PassionFish (11960 Democracy Dr., Reston; 7187 Woodmont Ave., Bethesda). The price: $19 for two courses. Don’t miss: Seafood crepe; poached eggs with lobster and lemon

The place: Ambar (523 Eighth St., SE; 2901 Wilson Blvd., Arlington). The price: $39 for unlimited dishes and drinks. Don’t miss: Cheese pie with cucumber yogurt; Balkan burger; tasting of spreads.

All-Day

Doughnuts This shop has been making great old-school sweets for 31 years. Walking into Donut Shack (497 Ritchie Hwy., Severna Park) feels a little like going back in time: There’s a linoleum counter with swivel stools, wood paneling, and teenagers in aprons waiting to serve you. Bill Prevezanos and his wife, Stacey, took over the strip-mall shop in 1985, 20 years after Bill emigrated from Greece. As trendy $3-a-pop doughnut shops proliferate, his classic confections—the Honey-Dip Stick, Chocolate Frost, and Apple Crisp are among the most popular—shirk any gimmicks. “If I want bacon, I’ll eat bacon—I don’t want bacon on my doughnuts,” Prevezanos says. He works 15 to 18 hours a day (the shop is open 24-7), making up to 60 varieties by hand. Another old-time touch: They’re only a buck each.

WAS H I N G TO N I A N ★ OCTOBER 2 0 1 6

Breakfasts

Nutella toast for dinner! Buﬀalo & Bergen (1309 Fifth St., NE): You could roll out of bed at 7 PM and still make it in time for one of the quirky bagel sandwiches at this Union Market cocktail counter. We’re partial to the Bayside Rabbi, an Old Bay bagel stuﬀed with gravlax and dill cream cheese. A Baked Joint (440 K St., NW): The breadbaking sister spot to Baked & Wired makes it seem totally reasonable to venture out for toast—especially when

it’s pain de mie with butter, Nutella, and Maldon salt. Earl’s Sandwiches (2605 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 4215 N. Fairfax Dr., Arlington): When we need greasy sustenance, this is our place. The classic bacon-egg-andcheese is made for dousing with ketchup and hot sauce. DGS Delicatessen (1317 Connecticut Ave., NW; 2985 District Ave., Fairfax): Go for the Benedictberg— two latkes laden with poached eggs, salmon, and sumac hollandaise.

Tom the Egg Man

Our favorite face at the farmers market. If you’ve visited the Dupont Circle FreshFarm Market (20th St. and Massachusetts Ave., NW) in the past decade, you’ve probably seen Tom Hubric of Waterview Foods—or even lined up for his chicken and duck eggs. While other vendors sell eggs on the side, Hubric and wife Pam, both retired US Airways employees, have built a second career around the Golden Comet laying hens (a.k.a. the “pampered pullets”) on their Nanticoke, Maryland, farm. Often you’ll see just Tom on Sundays, greeting chefs—Jeremiah Langhorne of the Dabney is a regular—and loyal customers by name. “I always enjoy shooting the baloney,” he says. Here’s a conversation with him. How did you get into the egg business? My wife and I had the opportunity to live in the country, and for kicks we bought some chickens. We were only going to raise chickens until I was eligible for Social Security, but a year later 9/11 happened, and a year after that US Airways went bankrupt and my pension stopped. We started with 50 chickens. Right now we have around 1,500, and 50 ducks plus two potbelly pigs that are just pets. What’s the secret to breaking into the egg business? You can’t be concerned about the time involved. You have to be willing to get up at 4:30 in the morning and let the chickens out, and you have to be there at night to put them to bed; otherwise you’ll lose them to critters—the raccoons love a chicken sandwich. Eggs have to be picked up twice a day. They have to be washed in water that has no more than two parts iron in it, because eggshells are very porous and that iron will destroy the albumen. They have to be graded, packed, and refrigerated within 45 minutes of being washed. You’re committing to seven days a week. Why are some eggs brown and some white? The simplest way to say it is that a brown-feather chicken lays a brown egg and a white-feather chicken lays a white egg. A brown-feather chicken is much bigger than a white-feather chicken, but their innards are the same size. They’re not as eﬃcient at disposing waste, so they dispose of some of it in the eggshell, and that’s why it’s brown. Everyone says “ugh,” but you’re not eating the eggshell! What’s the diﬀerence between a duck egg and a chicken egg? Duck eggs are almost twice as big as chicken eggs, so they’re really rich. There are a lot of people who are allergic to chicken eggs but can eat duck eggs. How do you like your eggs in the morning? I like mine fried up, and my wife likes them scrambled. She does it with a little olive oil and a little butter. The olive oil really brings the taste up.

O C TO BE R 2 0 1 6 ★ WAS H I N G TO N I A N

quiz

PRIX FIXE

let’s go out for

MENUS

Some really are good deals.

hollandaise; lemongrass steak with vermicelli.

The place: Central Michel Richard (1001 Pennsylvania Ave., NW). The price: $27 for three courses. Don’t miss: Goatcheese Caesar salad; fried chicken and waﬄes; lemon “eggceptional.”

The place: PassionFish (11960 Democracy Dr., Reston; 7187 Woodmont Ave., Bethesda). The price: $19 for two courses. Don’t miss: Seafood crepe; poached eggs with lobster and lemon

The place: Ambar (523 Eighth St., SE; 2901 Wilson Blvd., Arlington). The price: $39 for unlimited dishes and drinks. Don’t miss: Cheese pie with cucumber yogurt; Balkan burger; tasting of spreads.

All-Day

WAS H I N G TO N I A N ★ OCTOBER 2 0 1 6

Breakfasts

Tom the Egg Man

O C TO BE R 2 0 1 6 ★ WAS H I N G TO N I A N

let’s go out for

DISTILLERY DRINKING

Ted’s Bulletin

GREAT STARTS o fi

o a on

Place to Take the Parents: Garrison

Place to Take a Group: Masa 14

Rob Weland’s hyperlocal American restaurant on Barracks Row manages to feel both elegant and unassuming— and seldom falters when it comes to deliciousness. (Plus it’s fairly quiet.) Start with warm ebelskiver, Danish pancake puﬀs with jam, and a few of the beautiful vegetable plates, then move on to poppyseed gougères with soft-scrambled eggs, housesmoked trout, and caviar. 524 Eighth St., SE.

Few restaurateurs throw a brunch party better than Richard Sandoval, whose DC ventures (El Centro D.F., Zengo) are known for their raucous all-youcan-eat-and-drink aﬀairs. We’re partial to his Latin/Asian spot, where groups can camp out on the covered rooftop or in the moodily lit dining room. For $39 a person, you can feast with abandon on 18-odd small plates—barbecue steamed buns, egg-and-chorizo hash—plus various mimosas, bloodies, and beertails. Another perk: a patient waitstaﬀ. 1825 14th St., NW.

Place to Celebrate a Special Occasion: Fiola Mare

We love chef Fabio Trabocchi’s opulent Italian spot during the day, when the Potomac River views shine and the nautical-chic dining room feels positively Mediterranean. The $45 prix fixe brunch menu includes a glass of bubbly, a warm pastry basket, and three courses, such as burrata with grilled peaches, spaghetti with crab and chilies, and Sardinian ricotta doughnuts. 3100 K St., NW.

Place to Take the Kids: Ted’s Bulletin

And not just for the house-made poptarts. The eateries open bright and early at 7 AM (breakfast is served all day) and cater to little ones with word games, mazes, and crayons, plus pancakes with smiley faces made out of berries. For adults, there are enormous breakfast sandwiches and “walk of shame” breakfast burritos bursting with hash browns, sausage, and green-chili sauce. 1818 14th St., NW; 505 Eighth St., SE; 220 Ellington Blvd., Gaithersburg; 2911 District Ave., Fairfax; 11948 Market St., Reston.

Booze rarely feels like the star of a Bloody Mary, but a brunchcocktail tour of Ivy City’s distilleries might make you think diﬀerently. In the bright, airy tasting room at Republic Restoratives (1369 New York Ave., NE), the

Place for a LateNight Breakfast: Silver

This spiﬃer sibling to Silver Diner stays open until midnight during the week and 2 AM on weekends, and its late-night menu is rife with big plates of stomach-padding indulgences. We dig the huevos rancheros heaped with bison hash and goat cheese and a rib-eye-stuﬀed omelet inspired by a Philly cheesesteak. In other words, the kind of thing you want when there’s nothing left to do but sleep. 7150 Woodmont Ave., Bethesda.

No standard-issue mimosas here.

Cocktails

a a t

Creative

and

PHOTOGRAPH OF FARE WELL BY JEFF ELKINS

You can sip your Bloody Mary where the vodka is made.

At vermouth-crazy Nido (2214 Rhode Island Ave., NE), cinnamon-scented Vya Sweet—a fortified wine made with muscat grapes—is blended with fresh OJ. Dan Searing’s burntsugar old fashioned has been a Room 11 (3234 11th St., NW) staple since the place opened. It’s mixed with caramelized West Indies sugar, Kentucky whiskey, and bitters. Wake up with a zinger at Blue Duck Tavern

cocktail menu changes with the seasons, but you can usually count on a fresh-horseradish Bloody or a Civic Crush with squeezed-to-order orange juice and Cointreau—both include Civic vodka, produced mere feet away. About once a month, the distillery hosts brunch collaborations with other local producers, such

(1201 24th St., NW): The Cafe Park is part iced espresso, part Grand Marnier, and all energizing after short-rib hash. At Republic (6939 Laurel Ave., Takoma Park), the Localist highlights DC’s Green Hat gin, Maryland-made Bee George honey, lemon, and candied grapefruit. China Chilcano (418 Seventh St., NW) specializes in pisco, and the Jade Garden is a refreshing shake-up of the Peruvian brandy with cucumber juice, cilantro, lemon, and a touch of vanilla.

as Confluence Coﬀee Co. and Mason Dixie Biscuit Co. A short walk away at Jos. A. Magnus & Co. distillery (2052 West Virginia Ave., NE), the cocktail menu rotates monthly, but a recent riﬀ on a Bloody included its jerk-spiced Royal Seal vodka, tomatillo juice, fresh herbs, and a jerkspiced jerky garnish.

This section was written by Ann Limpert, Anna Spiegel, Jessica Sidman, and Greta Weber, with reporting by Jennifer Ortiz and Sarah Stodder.

We’re in the Midst of a Diner Boom A quick history of the genre’s evolution

1962 1935 Tastee Diner unveils its first location, in Bethesda. Outposts in Laurel and Silver Spring follow.

100

Louis Cholakis and George Bilidas open Amphora in Vienna. But the area remains a diner desert: They import booths and walls from a New York diner manufacturer.

WAS H I N G TO N I A N ★ OCTOBER 2 0 1 6

1988 The faux-’50s-retro American City Diner opens in Chevy Chase DC. Owner Jeﬀrey Gildenhorn’s billboard quotes get more attention than the food.

1989 The Silver Diner chain opens on Rockville Pike. It now has 14 locations—with plans for more over the next few years.

1995 The New York–style Metro 29 Diner debuts in Arlington with an on-site bakery.

1998 Tryst coﬀee shop owner Constantine Stavropoulos opens the Diner in Adams Morgan. Open until 2 AM, it quickly becomes a post-barcrawl destination.

2009 Matt Ashburn transports a 1947 diner to DC’s Trinidad and runs Capital City Diner for nearly two years. In 2012, developer Edens buys it on eBay; it’s parked by Union Market and used for pop-ups.

2013 Silver Diner revamps its menu to include vegan and glutenfree options.

2015 Silver, an upscale Silver Diner spinoﬀ, opens in Bethesda. All-day breakfast and apple pie are served alongside small plates and alcoholic milkshakes.

2016 Doron Petersan opens Fare Well, DC’s first vegan diner.

2016 The old-timey Slim’s Diner opens in Petworth with a simple, under-$12 menu of patty melts and pancakes.

2016 Restaurateur Mark Bucher will open Community. Featuring a cocktail consultant and a menu developed by a Michel Richard–trained chef, the new eatery sits across from the Bethesda Tastee Diner.

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