SUBCULTURE PROJECT VEILWEAR x STREET HIP HOP RESEARCH & PROCESS BOOK
FALL 2016 FASM 215 Fashion Aesthetics and Style Professor Robert Meeder
BRANWEN BINDRA VIVIAN LEE JAMES HOU
CONTENT
1. Research of Veil wear ...............................P1 Hijab Dress code of Muslim women Collaboration : Uniqlo x Hana Tajima Hijab fabrics How to wear hijab? Current Daywear of Muslim women Mood Board Draft Colour inspirations 2. Research of Street Hip-hop ...........................P13 General information Story of hoodie Yeezy collection for Adidas AllSaints Icon of Streetwear - M.I.A - Mathangi “Maya” Arulpragasam Street Hip-hop fabrics & Accessories Current streetwear looks Mood Board Draft Colour inspirations 3. Muse ..........................................P27 Yuna Mat Zara’ai 4. Interview with Mariam Zamani .........................P31 5. Key looks for the fusion subculture ......................P33 Development Final key looks 6. Brand Logo .....................................P37 Development Final Design 7. Prototype Product .................................P38 Research Final Design 8. Mood Boards and Line up Board .......................P41 Current Subculture (Veil wear & Street Hip-hop) Fusion Subculture Line up
Research: VEILWEAR Hijab • Hijab is a veil traditionally worn by Muslim women in presence of adult males outside of their immediate family. • Usually covers head/chest. • Symbol of modesty and privacy • According to the Encyclopedia of Islam and Muslim World, modesty in the Quran concerns both men’s and women’s “gaze, gait, garments, and genitalia.” • Wearing hijab in public has been required by law in Iran, Saudi Arabia and Indonesian province of Aceh. • Other countries have passed laws banning some or all types of hijab in public. • Women in different parts of the world have experienced unofficial pressure to wear or not wear hijab in general.
Percentage of what Muslim women wear in the Middle East area :
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Dress code of Muslim women : Purpose of Hijab: • Cover the awrah* • Awrah varies in different situations/amongst different groups of people. • Various conditions of wearing hijab in public for a woman/amongst non-mahram men. • As long as these conditions are fulfilled a woman may wear whatever she pleases. 1. The hijab (covering) must conceal the entire body except the face and the hands.
4. It should not be a garment worn because of vanity or to gain popularity or fame. The female companions were known to wear black and other dark colours but other colours are permissible; a woman must not however wear colourful clothes because of vanity.
2. It should not be translucent or tight. Tight clothes, even if they conceal the colour of the skin, still describe the size and shape of the body or part of it, and create vivid images.
5. It should not be perfumed. This prohibition applies to both the body and the clothes.
3. It should not attract the attention of the opposite gender; thus it should not be extravagant or excessively opulent. Nor should jewellery and makeup be on display.
6. It should not resemble the clothing worn by men. 7. It should not resemble the clothing that is specifi c to the non-Muslims.
*Awrah is a term used within Islam which denotes the intimate parts of the body, for both men and women, which must be covered with clothing.
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Collaboration: Uniqlo x Hana Tajima
• 2016, Uniqlo launched first hijab line in UK. • Singer Yuna Mat Zara’ai was the face for the advertising campaigns for the SS16 campaign • The hijab collection was designed by MuslimW fashion blogger Hana Tajima. • It aimed at the modern modest woman with hijab scarfs, relaxed jeans, rayon blouses with stylistic flourishes and long dresses with vibrant prints and innovative cuts.
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- collection
- images of the campaign
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HIJAB FABRICS Jersey - Stretchable cotton material. - Works well in warmer climates. - Absorbs sweat easily. Viscose - Lightweight material. - Perfect for volumious styles without feeling stuffy. - Affordable. Chiffon - Lightweight, sheer and airy. - Can produce an effortless flair both front and back. Silk - Luxurious touch. - Perfect for formal dressing. - Catches and reflects light from different angles.
How to wear hijab? - Hijab covers hair, neck and chest.
- Turban hijab covers hair only.
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Current Daywear of Muslim Women Light Coloured Clothing
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Light Coloured Clothing
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Current Daywear of Muslim Women Dark Coloured Clothing
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Dark Coloured Clothing
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Veilwear Mood Board
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Colour inspiration #1
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Colour inspiration #2
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RESEARCH : STREET HIP HOP General information
• Hip hop is a Black subcultural art movement, formed during early 1970s. • Developed from a self-conscious rumination of words and music to an obstinate expression of contemporary urban life through corporal gestures and apparel. • Their culture of fashion is a distinctive style of dress originating from African American, Latin and other inner city youth on the scene of New York City. • The hip-pop era saw split between male and female hip hop fashion. • Developments have primarily in men’s wear sector; early clothes functional. • Included conventional items: multicolored appliqué leather jackets, sheepskin coats, car coats, straight leg corduroy or denim jeans, hooded sweatshirts, athletic warmup pants, mock turtlenecks, and sneakers and caps. • Less functional items included designer jeans and Kangol caps, gold jewelry, Pumas with fat laces, basketball shoes, and oversized spectacles by Cazal. • The hip-hop womenswear consisted of inconsequential looks that reflected contemporary women and accompanied with items such as Louis Vuitton handbags, name chains, midriff tops, bra tops, short skirts, tight jeans, high boots, tattoos and oversized gold jewelry. • Women wore apparel consisted of items similar to those worn by men during 1990s.
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Nasir Mazhar - Women SS 15
Women AW 14
• Streetwear-inflected details appear on the catwalk with increasing frequency • Streetwear sheds underground status, taped by major luxury department stores • “Streetwear — understood as a cultural phenomenon and not a trend — is certainly destined to last,” “Streetwear stands out from other passing trends.” - Antonio Cristaudo (marketing manager, Pitti Immagine) • Ascent of streetwear mirrors long-term decline of formal dressing. “Streetwear is real wear; no-one wants to wear a suit to work unless it’s a strictly formal environment.” - Mandi Lennard (fashion consultant) • Passing trend • Influence can be felt throughout industry as a whole • Some brands are not keen to be given the “streetwear label” they want to be considered as a fashion brand • Streetwear brands are a new genre, considerations to luxury sportswear • Intersection of streetwear/high-fashion evolving by the two working together more collaboratively.
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‘Hood By Air’ - Shayne Oliver Source : https://www.businessoffashion. com/articles/intelligence/will-high-fashions-love-affair-streetwear-last
Story of the hoodie • Most people see hoodie as representation of anything anti-social • It’s this anti-establishment, anti-social thing that the garment ultimately represents • First hit retail scene in 30s • Had practical intent: keeping athletes warm • Started getting rep on the streets • 70s - hoodie solidified its counterculture rep, influenced by graffiti artists sporting the style • Hip hop crowd/Skater scene of 80s + 90s • Hoodie has had other trend, about leisurewear/ resort wear • Provides commonality between country club scene/ • • • • • •
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some of era’s most relevant counterculture movements Athleisure trend - modern sweatshirt Street-style trend moved away from fringes of fashion into mainstream Hoodie most authentic piece of street-style wear Labels like Supreme, Vestments + Yeezy (turning street style into modern-day counterculture movement) Subversion, hoodies have strong cultural background (why prominent in current collections) Hoodie has narrative power (managed to pass through some of the most important counterculture movements of our time). With one simple item of clothing, modern designers referencing broad-spectrum history of youth culture Hoodie has narrative power, it is here to stay.
Source : http://www.allure.com/story/evolution-of-the-hoodie
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Yeezy collection for Adidas
- Kayne West with his collection. • Clothes shaded from beiges and taupes to browns and blacks • Sweatshirts, leggings, outerwear, and boots remain backbone of collection • Monochrome head-to-toe - reflected skin colour of model • Unisex • Layered, deconstruction look • Tights, body stockings, knits, jackets • Yeezy Duck boot/high heeled boots Source : http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-towear/kanye-west-adidas-originals
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AllSaints • • • • • • • • • • • •
British Fashion House Established in 1994 Clothing/Accessories for Men/Women Bets known for premium leather, most notably the iconic biker jacket Expresses attitude/individuality through deep rooted links to music/film Message is excellence and integrity Considered one of the hippest retailers on British High St Aim towards trendy, style aware niche Target demographic 18-35 Evoke a mood of decadent decay and distressed glamour with religious iconography Layered with vintage details, carefully aged materials Display that ‘thrown together’ look
Sources: https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/companies/allsaints http://www.stylelogue.co.uk/style/all-saintsbrand-profile/
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Icon of Streetwear M.I.A. - Mathangi “Maya” Arulpragasam
• Rapper/Singer • Dance, electric, hip hop • “M.I.A. play on her own name and refers to acronym “Missing in Action” • Bold/brash fashion style • Mixes sequins and prints • Loves jackets and layering • Holographic spandex layering • Collaborated with Versus Versace, 19 piece collection. Men’s/women’s clothing, included t-shirts, dresses, silk shirts and printed jeans. • Mass appeal • Cross of cultures • Style reminds of young Gwen Stefani Source: http://www.indigo-clarke. com/oyster-magazine/2014/3/3/mia
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Street Hip Hop fabrics Jersey - stretchable cotton material - absorbs sweat easily - mostly used for t-shirts French Terry - light to medium weight - mostly used for oversized hoodies and jackets - perfect for volumious styles Denim - medium to heavy weight - popular for boyfriend jeans and oversized jackets - rough material that gives texture to the look Polyester / Nylon - sturdy fabric made from synthetic fibres - mostly used for oversized jackets and sweaters
Accessories - long necklaces - extra large rings - bracelets - chains - the bigger the better - gold and diamonds
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Current Streetwear Looks
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Current Streetwear Looks
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Street Hip-hop Mood Board
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Colour inspiration #1
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Colour inspiration #2
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MUSE: Yuna Mat Zara’ai • Professionally known as Yuna • Malaysian singer-songwriter/businesswoman. • Born and raised in Kedah, Malaysia. • Taught herself to play guitar and began writing songs at age 14. • 2006, in need of a creative outlet while attending law school, Yuna performed in front of the audiences for the first time. • Soon offered her music on her MySpace page, which went on to net over one million plays. • Online success tipped off the Indie-Pop label/management company to her music • Early 2011 she signed with the Fader label. • In spite of the career as a musical artist, Yuna’s Muslim faith and fashion style made her popular. • She has a different perspective on Muslim dress code and modest clothing. “I really like the idea of modesty. By the time I got into music, I was already wearing the scarf all the time, and it’s really personal to me, my Muslim beliefs, so I decided to keep it and find a way to work around it. I don’t see it as a restriction or limitation — I can still be me and get into music and be an entertainer.” “It’s my personal choice — it’s just kind of weird when people say ‘take off your hijab and be you’ because this is me, I’m being myself; I’m not oppressed. This is very liberating that I get to do this and be in the music industry. I like that I don’t have to conform to the normal women-in-musicselling-sex-appeal thing.”
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The combination of Yuna wearing a headscarf (hijab) and skinny jeans soon became her icon.
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Interview with Mariam Zamani Q : Can you please describe your religion. What is the significance of the hijab? A : Background information: The somewhat “official” definition of the word Islam is “Attaining peace through the submission to the will of God (Allah)”. The word “Allah” is translated literally as “God” in Arabic. Islam is a monotheistic religion and consists of 5 main pillars. 1) Sincere recitation of the profession of Muslim faith called Shahadah. 2) Prayer 5 times every day at specific timings known as Salat. 3) Giving alms to the poor and needy called Zakaat. 4) Fasting during the holy month of Ramadan called Sawm. 5) Pilgrimage at least once in one’s lifetime to Mecca, known as Hajj. In relation to the hijab, Islam centers itself around balance and modesty in all aspects of life. We believe that God has made it an obligation for believing men and women to lower their gaze and dress modestly as said in the Holy Quran. We cover our bodies as a form of respect and obedience to Allah, to respect and protect ourselves. We wear it to not attract attention to our appearance but rather our internal qualities like intelligence, personality, etc.
Occupation: Student Age: 23 Major: Graphic Design
Q : Within your religion are there any restrictions on what clothing you can wear? Are there any rules or regulations? A : Yes, there are certain limits such as not displaying your cleavage, bum, stomach, legs or bare shoulders (sleeveless shirts). Pants that cut off just above the ankle are fine I think.Tight clothes are not allowed too since they cling to a woman’s shape and emphasize her body. T-shirts, jeans, long skirts, dresses with sleeves and everything else is fine. However, if one is wearing the hijab, then normally, she won’t wear t-shirts but rather quarter length sleeves and mostly long sleeves with long skirts/trousers. This is because it looks rather daft if she were to cover her head and not cover the most main parts of her body. The funny thing about people’s understanding of hijab, is that they think if you cover your hair it’s all good. In fact, if someone were to objectify a girl, they would look at her body and not her face/head. So why cover the head anyway? I believe its an extra step further, stemming from first, covering her body out of modesty. The hijab is about overall modesty, not just wrapping that H&M scarf around your head.
Q : Are you allowed to wear any kind of colour? Is colour important to you? A : Colours don’t matter! You can wear whatever you want, I personally don’t like the massive hijabs some females wear on their head because I think it looks a bit weird but for me, color is SO important. Even before wearing it I never liked wearing just one color in my outfit. I think color is so important to other ladies wearing the hijab because it gives it a personality of its own, it becomes theirs, it’s something very personal and important to them and they love it so why not make it seen as a happy, positive thing rather than a restriction? But it’s tricky as it can become border-line offensive if it were to become fashion statement to non-Muslims (such as they whole obsession with a Bindi, which has religious importance to it but people just see it as “dressing up”) .
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Q : When shopping for clothes, are there many options for you within the market? Can you find everything that you need? If not, what do you want to see more of? A : There are a lot of options in most countries. Hong Kong can be tricky sometimes because majority of people are not religious at all. When I go shopping I tend to go to Forever21. For example, I usually find a top or a skirt that Im in LOVE with, only to later find out it has a huge slit in it, which means I have to wear leggings, or an undershirt to cover myself in case some skin shows beneath it when worn. It’s like extra work. Or sometimes the fabric is too sheer or it’s a cropped shirt which means then I have to wear high-waisted pants to cover my stomach that don’t even match and in the end you just get fed up. For someone who follows the Islamic dress codes, I would just like to see clothes that are not sheer, with no cutouts or slits in the clothes. More long sleeve clothes and longer shirts. It simplifies the layering process and doesn’t make us boil in the summer. Any pattern or design or colors is always loved.
Q : Is expressing yourself through fashion important to you? If so, why? A : As a creative person, it is definitely important as I am not the type of person who can keep to herself at all times. I have moments where I want to be loud and expressive. Wearing the hijab shouldn’t be a hindrance at all to do that. It gives me more than it takes away from me.
Q : Is there anything in particular that you like about street wear? A : Street wear is so cool because it usually consists of looser clothes, vibrant colors (easier to match hijabs with) and cool graphics. Or even if its something mental and sporty like Jeremy Scott’s tracksuits for Adidas I love it. The colors and prints stand out so well and theres no problem with wearing clothes like that since they cover everything anyway. I don’t know that much about streetwear but it is very VERY doable with hijabis. It depends on what each person’s style is, some like layering, some don’t. But streetwear is a YES!
Q : What do you think about Yuna Zarai’s voice? Attitude? Style? A : Her voice is gorgeous, super smooth, gentle and clear. I think her style is elegant and timeless. She uses simple colours for clothes but hijab is usually the piece that stands out by being styled in different way such as wrapping it around. Or like a turban style. Her attitude to me speaks independence. Showing that she is making the most of her talent and combining that creativity in her music along with her style. Its basically more individual than many other artists out there who believe “less is more” in terms of clothing. Like the more you show your body the more attention you get which is true but she’s become super successful in her own right and worked with numerous international artists. Not by putting her body on display, but by using her voice (literally) yet maintaining her religious beliefs.
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Key Looks Development
- Look 4 - Decided to change the sweatpants of Look 4 because it was repeated in the key looks. - Trying to include a skirt into our collection, but it does not match well with the jacket - Changed to black leggings and extended the sheer fabric from knee-length to fulllength.
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- Look 5 - The straight leg pants were cropped at first. - Decided to extend the length of the pants because it is more appropriate for Muslim women to cover their ankles.
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Final Looks
Look 1
Look 2
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Look 3
Look 4
Look 5
Primary
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Secondary
Brand Logo Development
Final Logo
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Prototype Product Research
Glass bottles
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Final Design
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Packaging and bottle
Madina The following blends are included in the scent Madina: citrus, ozonic, floral floral, woody and musky. • Citrus is uplifting, wholesome, easy-going and fresh. • Ozonic has a sense of transparent fresh sparkle in the air that is free contemplative, dreamy, spiritual and happy. • Floral floral is heady narcotic, sensual and evocative. • Woody composes of the finest East Indian Sandalwood which is elegant, mellow, soothing and sensual. • Musky is warm, fresh, mellow and deep but simple and sensual. Overall description of perfume: Madina is an easy going fresh scent that is set to evoke feelings of warmth and delight.
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Mood Boards and Line Up Current Subcultures
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Street Hip-Hop
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Fusion Subcultures
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Line up Board VEIL-STREETWEAR
Line up Board
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