The Khůn Collection
This capsule collection explores the Maharashtrian fabric Khůn. The colours are traditional, used for this fabric for many a years. Silhouettes are based on the trends for Spring/Summer 2014, hourglass shapes paired with a rectangular aesthetic. The shoulders are square and severe. Pleating is deep. There is an interplay between the patttern and the fabric. Bold shaping and flattened lines allow the lustre of the thread to come through. The pleating and folding create deep shadows as a contrast. A modern take on a very traditional weave
A Timeless Story
Yohji Yamamoto for Levis
This project brings together the tenets of both Yohji Yamamoto and Levis. The focus is on garments which are stylish and ageless. Both these brands have their focus firmly on designs which are not trend led, But classic. Easy to wear and sexy. The inspiration comes from armour, both Japanese and European. Armour is hard wearing and protective, like the clothes from these brands. It provides reference for hard moulded parts made from carbon fibre composites. The methods used for this fabrication are adapted From those I learnt in my training as a dentist. The moulded sections combine with tessellated patterns through metal fastenings. This uniform smocking is a traditional technique for controlling volume. Chainmail, worn under plate armour is the seed of this idea. The details enhance an oversized silhouette which stands away from the body In folds and flow of fabric. This can be drawn in or left loose. Think of the capes and under robes worn by warriors of both cultures. The detail is inspired by armour, but the main influence for the silhouette Is the clothes of the working class. Large, utilitarian and tough. The fabrics are wool, denim and cotton. All hearty and hardy. The colours are urban. Black, blue, grey and white are strong and un-dulled. They ensure that this collection, from Autumn/ Winter 2013 can be worn well beyond that date. There is a contrast between structured, formal elements and loose, organic elements Which I hope will lead to an interesting juxtaposition.