Ingredients for success

The flour market is proving resilient, despite huge domestic and global pressures, but the increasing quest for sustainable production methods isn’t going down well everywhere. Meanwhile pizza schools are training up the next generation of pizza chefs.

The Current Situation

While the import/export world has faced unprecedented price increases, there has been better news for the grain market –although it may well be short-lived.

In the wake of the conflict in Ukraine, grain prices spiked last year, but have fallen sharply. A key indicator is the Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO) of the United Nations Cereal Price Index, which averaged 147.3 points in February. This is a marked drop from 173 points in May 2022. So, why have things improved? There have been three key factors. Namely, an improvement in production forecasts, a drop in the cost of fertilisers and fuel and the Black Sea Grain Initiative, signed between Moscow and Kyiv.

The Black Sea Grain Initiative was originally agreed back in July last year, enabling Ukraine to ship 25 million tonnes of grain and edible oils to 45 countries, easing pressure on global food prices. This was then subsequently extended for several more months, although opinions differ on the actual amount of time this actually proved to be, but explains why there has been, and continues to be, unpredictability in a region that is traditionally relied upon in a major way across numerous grainrelated product categories and markets.

More recently, in a Grain Market Daily update (23 March 2023) from AHDB (the Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board), they reported that markets had been reacting to updates from the Black Sea region, as well as Southern Hemisphere production, but that as we now move to 2023’s harvest, the focus is turning to the development of the Northern Hemisphere crops, all of which – the size and quality – can impact UK prices and of course domestic export potential.

This update went on to note that in most key producing regions in Europe, following the mild winter, cereal crops are generally said to be in fair to good condition. Having said this, the dry conditions in southern parts of the continent are becoming increasingly concerning, they noted, with an extreme rain deficit and even drought to be seen in certain parts of Spain and Portugal, with soil moisture levels very low and rainfall desperately needed. Additionally, water reservoirs for irrigation in most of southern Spain and northern Italy are very low, the update reported, which could have an impact on spring cropping decisions and the ability to irrigate during late spring and summer.

A Sustainability Balance

The UN estimates the global population could reach 9.7 billion by 2050, and with challenges around climate change, alternative food sources are a hot topic. With the ongoing Ukraine conflict, cost of living crisis and high energy bills, the food and drink industry is being forced to think differently about its products. Combine this with consumer pressure to deliver sustainable practices and you have a tricky tightrope walk. This has been clearly illustrated by the current controversy over ‘insect flour’.

In recent years, the agriculture sector has witnessed the birth of crickets, locusts and insect larvae being used in flour, as they are packed with vitamins, proteins and minerals. They also deliver sustainable production in line with agri-food chains, lower

New Artisan Sourdough Bread Range From Brakes

Foodservice wholesaler, Brakes has introduced a new range of artisan sourdough breads under its La Boulangerie brand. Working closely with speciality bakery Nicholas & Harris, the result is a range of subtle flavours and fermented characteristics.

Using traditional methods, the majority of the loaves are handproduced, including folding, moulding and bulking. There’s no commercial yeast and the bread has a long fermentation, with the loaves rising naturally, giving the typical sour flavour and opentextured crumb. It is then bulked in a bespoke room before being baked. The half boule uses only three ingredients: - flour, water and salt.

Vanessa Baker, senior category manager, Bakery, at Brakes, said: “We wanted to create a range of products that any chef would be proud to serve. We believe we’ve created a range of really good breads that use traditional methods, but are also commercially viable.”

Paul Bown, process and development manager, Nicholas & Harris, said: “These products are among the first that will be nationally available for foodservice. We have a team of more than 30 craft bakers, so we understand the care and attention that needs to go into each and every loaf we create.” greenhouse gas emissions and use of organic waste. The dehydrated animals are reduced to powder by means of mechanical processes – and it’s glutenfree! In January 2023, the EU approved the sale of these insects for human consumption in powder and other dried forms. Croatia jumped on the bandwagon, with the European Food Safety Agency approving the arrival of insect flour on their shop shelves just a few months ago.

Further products include a cheese and onion loaf, alongside sundried tomato and herb.

But the response in Italy has been starkly different. Their government is cracking down on the use of insects and bugs in Italian cuisine. Orazio Schillaci, the health minister, confirmed that legislation would ban the use of insect flours in ‘typical’ Italian products such as pizza and pasta. “It’s fundamental that these flours are not confused with food made in Italy,” said Francesco Lollobrigida, the agriculture minister. Any products containing insects will have to be labelled with large lettering and displayed separately from other foods. “Whoever wants to eat these products can, but those who don’t – and I imagine that will be most Italians – will be able to choose,” Francesco Lollobrigida added.

But Jason Bull, director, Eurostar Commodities, is confident that the concept is worth considering. “From a global future perspective, insect protein offers a sustainable future and the next generation will probably buy into this concept a lot more than we are able to.

“Our system of meat rearing, slaughter and processing is much more barbaric than presenting baked goods made with cricket powder. Long term, if European consumers can be persuaded, then this could be a potentially endless supply of protein, which is good for the environment and a secure supply chain that can be farmed sustainably.”

Whatever the future of insect flour, the fact that it’s a lower carbon alternative than producing meat, using 75% less CO2 than chicken farms, means it’s not a topic likely to disappear anytime soon.

Making His Mark

The UK flour market is not currently necessarily regarded in terms of pizza making, but that could be set to change. Considering the dish was invented in Italy, where the climate and production processes are very different, this is probably not a surprise. Blends of different wheats from a variety of countries are often used in flour products, to meet the baking requirements of restaurants and operators – but one man is looking to buck this trend.

Marco Fuso has been making pizza for 25 years, and is now an industry consultant and PAPA Awards judge. With the food sector under increasing financial pressure due to rising costs, he believes a solution may be closer to home.

“I have lived in the UK for 15 years, and had the idea to produce a local flour and create my own brand,” said Marco Fuso.

It’s been a real labour of love. “I sent emails to 20 mills, but only made the right connection with one. After a long testing process, we launched Marco Fuso (MFP) Blue Professional Pizza Flour in February. It produces a silky smooth dough, while the high absorption process makes it one of the most performant flours in the industry – suitable for Roman and Neapolitan pizza styles. We are already used in nearly 200 pizzerias nationwide, after just three months.”

But there’s more to come, with another product to be unveiled at the European Pizza & Pasta Show (21-22 June, 2023, Olympia London).

“We hope to launch the Red flour, which suits longer fermentation. The Blue relates to a 24-48hr proving time for pizza, while red is 24-72hr. This will help chefs understand what works best. Many pizzerias can keep the dough in the fridge for several days, without wastage.”

Marco is hopeful this UK focus will grow: “We can produce quality products right here. Local outlets are thinking differently about ingredients, due to inflation and financial pressures, so this is a trend that is likely to continue.”

• Pizza Dorata ‘00’ Flour – Higher protein flour, long leavening, great strength and tightness. Produces a high, soft and flavoured crust.

• Pizza Italiana ‘0’ Flour – Made from 100% Italian wheat, makes a light and fragrant easily digestible pizza, especially suitable for deep pan dishes.

• Pizza Verace ‘00’ Flour – Higher protein flour, ideal for classic Neapolitan thin pizzas, offers a tasty crispy golden crust.

• Pizza Ideale ‘00’ Flour - Ideal for all types of pizza, perfect for creating doughs that need to be ready to cook in a short time, offers a soft pizza with a crunchy golden crust.

• Pinsa Romana Flour – High hydration, semifinished product is ideal for making Pinsa in all the different leavening and fermentation modes and for all types of processing, offers a light and digestible pizza base that is crispy on the outside and soft in the middle.