TOMATOES
In praise of
tomatoes CONSTANT DEMAND Global tomato consumption is forecast to reach 51 million tons by 2026, with an estimated 80% consumed as fresh produce and 20% as processed and canned tomatoes. However, tomatoes were not always well loved and were slow to catch on in Europe and the rest of the world, as co-founder of specialist ingredients supplier, Seggiano, Peri Eagleton reminds us. “The tomato’s first appearance in European literature was in an herbal written in 1544 by Mattioli - an Italian physician and botanist - who suggested that a new type of melanzana, or aubergine, had been brought to Italy that was red or golden when mature. However, it wasn’t until ten years later that tomatoes were named in print by Mattioli as pomo d’oro, or ‘golden apple’. The original Central American Nahuatl name, ‘tomatotl’, appeared in print 40 years later,” says Peri Eagleton. And are they fruits or vegetables? “Tomatoes are technically a fruit but considered a vegetable by nutritionists,” Peri Eagleton continues. “Many people thought tomatoes were poisonous when they first appeared in Europe, and in general, they were initially grown more as ornamental plants than 40
as food. It is possible that early varieties of the tomato contained large quantities of solanine, the ‘nightshade’ alkaloid that makes green potatoes poisonous. “The poison fear persists up until this day, possibly inspiring the 1978 spoof horror movie Attack of the Killer Tomatoes, even though commercially grown tomatoes these days contain very tiny amounts of solanine, most of it replaced by much larger quantities of tomatine, a relatively benign alkaloid, which studies have shown binds to cholesterol in the digestive tract, and passes through the body without being absorbed into the bloodstream. “In fact, it is thought that the health benefits of tomatoes are one of the drivers in the steady market increase in tomato consumption worldwide.” HEALTH PROMOTING Further studies have found that purified tomatine, for example, seems to stimulate the immune system in desirable ways. The fibre, potassium, vitamin C and choline content in tomatoes all support heart health. Tomatoes also contain other protective mechanisms, such as anticlotting and anti-inflammatory functions, making them a big friend of the circulatory system. “Lycopene is the best known antioxidant polyphenol component in tomatoes; it gives tomatoes their rich red colour and is thought to have the highest antioxidant activity of all the carotenoids,” explains Peri Eagleton. “Most of our lycopene consumption comes from tomatoes and it is abundant in cooked, tinned and processed tomatoes as well as fresh. Lycopene has been linked with cancer prevention (particularly prostate cancer) in several studies, as well as benefits for other conditions, including
As we are reminded here, tomatoes remain a crucial, if not iconic and health-promoting, ingredient of Italian cuisine used in a variety of popular formats and recipes, but as ever subject to the weather and challenging market conditions. cardiovascular disease, osteoporosis, suninduced skin damage and dementia.” Tomatoes also contain all four major carotenoids - alpha- and beta-carotene, lutein, and lycopene. These carotenoids have individual benefits, but also interact to provide health benefits as a group. Interestingly, when tomatoes are eaten along with extra virgin olive oil, the body’s absorption of these carotenoids in tomatoes can increase by two to 15 times, according to a study from Ohio State University.
TASTE Of course, another key driver of the global love of tomatoes is their delicious sweetness. “At Seggiano, we were surprised to discover in blind tests that a quality extra virgin oil rounded the tomato flavours and made our pasta sauces taste sweeter, compared to sauces made with generic industrial extra virgin olive oil,” reports Peri Eagleton. “The sauce sector accounts for the largest market share and in 2018, about 12 million tons of sauces were consumed globally and the world’s obsession with Italian food must be playing a part in the emerging growth. September 2021
