Creative Director Janell Langford
Photography Joy Strange Trevor Crump Ana Raab
Design Director Janell Langford
Copy Editor Warren Langford
Contributors Arica Schuett Alana Edmondson Elisa Vergara Nicole Bagby
Contact janellgraphicdesign.com
Obisdian 502 East Harrison St Seattle, WA 98102
Visit janellgraphicdesign All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed or transmitted in any form.
Obsidian
Obsidian
3
Obsidian
5
Ob sidian
city jewelry
Obsidian
7
Me et Meet our favorite locals, locations, and activities.
token friends to white folk. Despit our hardships we’re thriving. Yet, even though black Seattleites have been the predominant minority community for generations, there's still a disconnect. A vacuum, and a void that more than doubles when we're talking about female identifying black people. So this is where we come in. A community rag celebrating North West women of color. What does Obsidian have in store for you? A glimpse at our Seattle through our lense. An opportunity to get to know so many of us whose voices have been diluted in the petri dish of this drizzly city. In this our inaugural issue we take a tour of local haunts with our favorite artists, profile North West WOC musicians, and more. Because there is a great beauty in the overlooked.
Copy Editor Janell Langford
Creative Director Janell Langford
Obsidian
001 Meet
Blackness in Seattle is not sparse, Look around you, we're everywhere here, much more than the
Cinema
18
Our must see movie of the season
Podcastic Black Women in Pod-casting
Must Reads
50 For the black feminist in training
Black people who don’t like natural hair
Hair Talk
76
Contents
9
Fall Fashion Mystique
Designer Watch
Watch out for designer Natacha Baco
66
2015: Brutalism, Concrete
Nicole shares her wisdom
20 Introducing our favorite locals
52 Call Your Sista
62
Eat, hair, dance, shop, and art
10
Meet
22
Table of On the Town
THE
F OOD
SHOP
ART
HAIR
DANCE
on own Whether you’ are a Seattle newbie or a native here’'s our Fall recommendations for what to do and where to do it.
The Northwest African American Museum’s mission is to spread knowledge, understanding and enjoyment of the histories, arts, and cultures of people of African descent for the enrichment of all. They accomplish their mission by working with others to present and preserve the connections between the Pacific Northwest and people of African descent, and to investigate and celebrate Black experiences in America through exhibitions, programs and events. Obsidian
ART Illustrations by Janell Langford 11
FOOD
HAIR
If you’ are mourning the loss of Catfish Corner and the Kingfish Cafe and you don’'t know about Simply Soulful, you are only hurting yourself. It’'s an African-American-owned soul food restaurant, it'’s affordable, and it stocks a variety of mind-blowing desserts. This probably sounds like the Promised Land to you, so why don’'t you know about it? Simply Soulful, is unfortunately stashed away in a hidden parking lot just northeast of Cafe Flora, and it’'s only open until 7 p.m. Tuesdays - Friday and earlier on the weekends—. Which makes it, to say the least, a less-than-optimal dinner option (though they do offer carryout service). Make no mistake: This is a meal worth contorting your calendar over.
Many of us are afraid of our natural hair texture. We have not been taught, in our youth, to embrace who we are naturally. This phenomenon has been a disservice to generations of men, women and children who have no idea how to care for, or style the hair that grows from their heads naturally. At Good Hair Salon, their stylists seek to reveal the authentic, natural beauty that each and every one of their clients possess, but have not been taught to see… and love.
Obsidian
13
SHOP Afrobeatnik is an online retailer of urban boho style. We feature new, vintage, and handmade goods. We believe there is beauty in diversity. Afrobeatnik celebrates the diversity of women and clothing with a collection of carefully curated vintage and upcycled fashion spanning time periods, cultures, and styles. Our collection features vintage spanning from the 50s to the 80s and items handcrafted by our Seattle-based artisan team from repurposed vintage and used materials. Obsidian
DANCE Heavily supported by the acclaimed queer based artist of TheeSatisfaction, Black Weirdo parties showcase DJ’s that are willing to step out of the top 40 boundary, and underground musicians who deserve to be brought to light. The Black Weirdo Party is a dance haven for the black queer community and allies. They provide not only a safe environment but an experience of warmth and comfort that you just don'’t get when you go out to nightclubs and bars.
15
LIGHT ASYLUM
Obsidian
Our Must Hear Tuneage
Light Asylum are as prone to moments of militancy as bouts of beauty. The project pairs the production skills of Bruno Coviello, 32, and the commanding contralto of Shannon Funchess, 40, whose high energy and moody mastery of the mic have earned her comparisons to both Grace Jones and Ian Curtis. After coming together in 2009, the duo shot through the local scene like conjoined meteors, making such an impact with their live show that James Murphy once said the mere idea of having time to produce for them was reason enough to bust up LCD Soundsystem. 17
To me, we are the most beautiful creatures in the world, black people. So, my job is to make them more curious about where they came from and their own identity and pride in that identity.
Obsidian
- Nina Simon
WHAT HAPPEND MISS SIMONE?
Music documentaries can often be accused of shamelessly eulogizing and romanticising over the career of their subject as though afraid to portray the stars as human beings, and admit to their flaws. It was certainly the case for the Mick Jagger produced Crossfire Hurricane, and even in Kevin Macdonald’s Marley. Even worse are the features that follow an artist around on tour – like the recent Katy Perry and One Direction endeavours, that teach the audience nothing, deviating away from any sense of educational purpose. Thankfully, neither of those common misgivings can be accredited to Liz Garbus’ What Happened, Miss Simone?, which takes a candid, and painfully honest look into the life of the luminary, iconic Nina Simone. The director – whose previous credits include the likes of Love, Marilyn and Bobby Fischer Against the World, has once again displayed her ability for capturing the distinct sensibilities and venerability of her subjects, and while there is an element of celebration when it comes to Simone’'s life, this remains a sincere, studious account, never shying away from the less publicised, and yet somewhat more discreditable aspects of her demeanour – such as the impetuous aggression shown towards her daughter Lisa Simone Kelly.
“a candid, and painfully honest look into the life of the luminary, iconic Nina Simone” For Simone was a troubled soul, often on the receiving end of domestic abuse herself, at the hands of her husband Andrew Stroud, while battling a depression which plagued her life – making for an unsettling and often upsetting documentary. Simone'’s political inclinations and raw displays of public activism gives Garbus the scope to use her subject as a catalyst to explore the entire era, and allowing her the chance to contextualise the musician’s career – which can only be beneficial to proceedings. It brings so much depth to songs we’'ve all heard a million times before, now enriched thanks to this stunning piece of documentary filmmaking, as we feel we know so much of the person who wrote the lyrics, or lent her indelible vocals to these records.
Our Must See Movie Review by Nia Childs
Such is the vast array of songs that Simone performed across her illustrious career, from the likes of Feeling Good to My Baby Just Cares for Me, to her nuanced, distinguishable cover versions of Bob Dylan’'s Just Like Tom Thumb’s Blues or Just Like a Woman – it’s impossible for Garbus to squeeze them all in to 100 mere minutes without compromising the narrative. Arguably Simone’'s very finest number – the feverish, mesmeric Sinnerman, is held back until the closing credits, so be sure not to go anywhere. Not that you'’ll feel like getting up and leaving in a rush anyway, such is the emotional impact this compelling documentary will undoubtedly have had.
19
Podcastic
6 1
Podcasts Hosted By Women of Color, Because There’s Life Beyond Ira Glass, I Promise Written by Doyin Oyeniyi
The Read
This might be the most popular podcast on the list, as well as the most NSFW. It’s also the only one that has a male cohost. Kid Fury, a popular blogger and Youtuber, and Crissle, a writer, both hail from the South and are currently based in New York. Together, they make a hilarious duo. I started listening to them while I was living in South Korea, and hearing two opinionated black voices discuss American pop culture and racial issues, in a frank and hilariously profane way, filled a void of homesickness that I hadn’t even known I had until my first listen. In their latest episode they tackled the fading legacy of Iggy Azalea and that terrible Deadline article about “ethnic” casting.
2
The Back Talk
Britt is a writer and essayist who often writes about music and identity. With The Back Talk, she’s ties in music with essays and interviews about and from other women of color from around the country. Her latest episode, “Naomi Campbell Walks,” focused on confidence and touched on how so many women are still struggling with theirs. Obsidian
3
Black Girls Talking
Everything you need to know about the podcast is in the title. It’s four amazing black women getting together to talk about pop culture through the lens of the representation (or lack of) black women in media. With their backgrounds — Alesia’s in non-profit, Aurelia’s with screen and stage performance, and Fatima and Ramou are in writing — they offer a variety of outlooks on what’s going on in film, television, and online. I came for the topics, and I stayed for the giggling fits of laughter that often punctuate their on-point assessments. Listening to them is like listening in on a conversation of girlfriends who are smarter than you.
5
4
Pushing Hoops With Sticks
!The solo episode is over an hour long, but it’s a conversation in which Ayesha, editor-in-chief of The New Inquiry, and Ezra Koenig, Vampire Weekend’s frontman, discuss race, culture, and music, especially through critiques of Vampire Weekend’s prep aesthetic. I didn’t think I would be into listening to Ezra Koenig talk about race, but I was enthralled. I’m not sure what Ayesha has planned for the next episode, but I’m looking forward to more of her confident and insightful analyses.
Two Brown Girls
This podcast is one of the newest on my list and unlike The Read and Black Girls Talking, I haven’t been with them from the beginning. I’ve only been listening to the podcast for the past few weeks, but I’m hooked. Zeba and Fariha are both writers who offer an interesting take on pop culture news. In their latest episode they discussed Zayn leaving One Direction, but approached it from unique the angle of what it means to be part of a community that puts pressure on you to exist in strict limits.
6
Another Round
Tracy and Heben are two of my favorite Buzzfeed writers and they’ve brought some of their writing and all of their wit with them for the podcast. In the latest episode, Heben read some of her “W hite People Origin Stories” and they talked with Jazmine Hughes of the Hairpin. Plus, the ladies are drinking throughout the podcast (it’s called Another Round for a reason), so things usually get pretty interesting toward the end. Bonus: Their episodes drop on Tuesday, so that means, yes, episode three is out today! 21
M
eet
Photography by
Ana Raab, Joy Strange, & Trevor Crump
Many newcomers to Seattle have experienced a so called freeze, but could it be the rookies are merely projecting? When you encounter folks that control the confidence this city can offer you it can be intimidating. Who wouldn't’’'t freeze in the presence of these ladies that wield their style experiments with such laser precision. Though they all have domain over their unique niche in the scene, they all share one thing, and that’s the bravery to fully own their style and endeavors. It’s more than enough to give one pause, but shake it off quick, cause they’'ll be gone before you remember your name.
Obsidian
23
Forgive yourself,
travel to
Turkey
alone, don’t
date
boys
Obsidian
E
lisa
We met Elisa on a Sunday afternoon. Her daughter Moonlove joined us on a tour of her essential Capitol Hill hot spots. We ventured to The Vajra, a local Tarot shop and browsed their wonderful collection of crystals.
25
Where are you from? I am a Washingtonian, however I believe my soul is from wherever David Bowie’s soul is from.
supported me on. I was always a rebel punk to them, doing as I pleased. Follow your heart. On your path to what truly makes your soul ablaze in happiness; you will find like minded individuals, you will find friends that will become your family. Surround yourself with these people and cutoff any
Was your family and friends always supportive of your work? Absolutely. I was an early reader at a very young age. In turn I began writing at a very young age. They told me that I always wanted to be a writer and they have always encouraged it. They also saw how I struggled at first making ends meet. Stable writing jobs, that pay great money, are unicorns. Once I landed a great job that payed $500 an interview, I was reluctant to share my work with my Mother, because it was a marijuana magazine. Till this day she knows only of the artist’s I'’ve interviewed, not the publisher. My friends always supported my writing as well. Especially when they were able to attend my interviews and meet some of their favorite artists. Sharing those moments was always so exciting for me.
If you have to spend the day with someone dead or alive, who would it be? Easy, Carl Sagan. I have this dream that when my soul passes from this Earth, it will first come to a resting place, a dimension rather. Surrounded by pure white light is a coffee table, a tea set, and sitting will be Carl. He will answer all of my questions, sooth me like only his voice could and tell me the secrets of the multiverse.
What inspires your creativity? Mushroom trips, David Bowie, my husbands pure soul, my fathers stories, Prince, sacrilegious art, glitter.
Current music playlist and/or favorite book? Florence and The Machine and Turkish Psychedelic (the genre). Book- Roald Dahl’s complete adult theme book, The Memoirs of Cleopatra.
What would you say to those who don’t have the positive reinforcement of family or friends when pursuing a passion? Writing is one of the only things my parents fully
Describe your hair and your regiment? Oh let’s see, I have repeatedly bleached my jet black Brazilian hair to a dirty blonde so I can change my hair color at a whim. I
Obsidian
energy
vampires.
have been every shade of purple, blue, pink, green and now coral. I really took the time to learn how to lighten my hair safely and slowly. I’'d like to think I am a bleach pro now, I certainly wasn'’t at first. I would watch the Japanese girl’s tutorials on YouTube and just go for it. I also make sure to love my hair back. I use Olapex in my bleach and sleep in it once a month, just as a reconditioning treatment. I am very anal about my hair, I ask so much of it and I do not allow breakage. Olapex has allowed me to doso much to my hair without it becoming fried or breaking off. Goddess Bless the scientist who invented it!
a sisterhood. You are devoted to that sister forever, no matter what. This is something I never felt till I met my sister Mary Long Santiago What advice would you give to your younger self? Forgive yourself, travel to Turkey alone, don’t date boys.
“
Do you think the Northwest lacks a platform for women of color, why or why not? No. I grew up in the Northwest where our second lead news anchor was an African American woman. I see plenty of women of color in Seattle living their dream, basking on their platforms.
you will find
friends become
your
family.
What does sisterhood mean to you? Sisterhood means love, compassion, forgiveness, companionship on a fun and spiritual level. Unlike friendship, you cannot walk away from 27
“
will
Future projects? My baby. She is my latest and biggest masterpiece. Every day is a new project with her. I am currently writing again. Things which are not ready to reveal.
that
Surrounded white
by pure
light
“
is a coffee table, a tea set, and sitting will be
Carl .
He will answer my
me like
all of
questions, sooth only
his voice
could and tell me the
secrets multiverse
Obsidian
of the
29
Obsidian
“
Mushroom trips,
Bowie,
David
my
husband’s
pure soul,
my fathers
stories,
Prince
,
sacrilegious art,
glitter .
31
Obsidian
33
“
c i l f n o c
If causi feel
e m so ng you to
u o y f i s a f e el g
or n i e b e ar
selfish devotin craft when you are
yourself to your
then they can be someone else’s
friend
Obsidian
s i e on
ct
u
h ng
A
rica
Arica was kind enough to be our guide to the exhilarating art scene for a day. We wandered art walk and were mesmerized by her live painting demonstration.
35
Where are you from?
Seattle, WA
What events from your childhood influenced your direction towards the arts? I don'’t really know. It started really early. I feel like it was a way to pass the time alone, and it generated a feeling of accomplishment that’'s always been something I enjoy. Was your family and friends always supportive of your work? Definitely no. I’'ve always felt I had to lie about what I was doing when I didn’t want to just “kick it” even when I was a kid. I’'d often say I was grounded-which was often the case———because I'’d rather just stay at home and paint, read, and play piano. It took a while but those friends are gone now and my family has come a long way. I’'ve learned to use discretion with who I share my thoughts of self doubt. It surprised me recently when my mom asked if I was leaving myself enough time to paint adding further “you need to paint”. It stunned me to hear her say that. What would you say to those who don’t have the positive reinforcement of family or friends when pursuing a passion? If someone is causing you to feel conflict or feel as if you are being selfish when you are devoting yourself to your craft then they can be someone else’s friend. It’'s really easy for people to enable your self doubt without meaning Obsidian
to. The person I considered my best friend growing up easily had two or three friends she hung out with more than me and I was fine with that, I didn’t want to hang out more than once or twice a month. Some of my most miserable points in my life have been when I'’ve tried to accommodate an active social life because I thought it was the healthy thing to do. The more I hung out (drank, partied) the more unfulfilled and lonely I felt, and the more I did it because I thought that’'s what I needed—maybe I did. It definitely feed some feelings of isolation that have thematic in my work before. What is the most humorous or strangest reaction/story regarding your work? Well, I did move away from a town once because my work was received poorly. My first ever public display of art I painted a series of circus images (circus freaks--feeling of being a spectacle, isolated, etc..) that were displayed in a popular coffee shop in Bellingham, where I bummed around after college for a few years and had my first art studio. Using a book for all my reference images, a naive and dumb thing to do, one of the paintings included a terrifying painting of a famous black-face actor. When it was on display two of the coffee shop regulars, ironically, the creative director of the independent theater, as well as the coordinator of a popular and well attended weekly poetry night protested my painting, calling it racist demanding it be taken down. The cafe initially took it down a few days later
they put it back on the wall with a sweet and thoughtful explanation as to why it belonged alongside the other works, as a decorative record of history. The painting was hideous. I didn’t know anything about how to paint a head accurately, composition, or how to use oil paints. It fell really far short of what I wanted it to look like, however the experience was ideal. My goal then became to make equally content heavy work but to paint it in a masterful and beautiful way. I haven’t stirred a commotion like that since but I also don’'t want my work to have such an easy target. A piece I consider similar to that one was one I did in art school with a finely drawn bottle of expensive whiskey with a stack of bills stacked on top and a balled up piece of paper crumpled in the corner. The composition was intended to look like the stones hikers stack along trails and the imbalance of priorities I was experiencing at a time when I was drinking heavily and struggling with paying for art school.
Current music playlist and/or favorite book? My favorite book is Moby Dick, I’'m open to the possibility there are more beautifully written books but I have yet to read them. David Foster Wallace’s writing has been significant to me as well in that it’'s helped me realize to advantages of using modern discourse when concerning modern times which has aided my understanding of contemporary art quite a bit.
What’s your dream job? Norman Rockwell was able to depict thoughtful and topical content in a subtle and masterful way that it’s really stood the test of time. If my assumptions correct he probably was able to sidestep a lot of fine art hype and pretension by being an illustrator. If I ever cross paths with an opportunity like what the Saturday Evening Post was to him I’'d be all over it.
Had you always embraced your hair texture? Who has? Besides the obvious beautify imagery media element. It’'s really hard to love your hair when it’s a bit of a mystery how to make your hair it’'s best. I didn'’t hate my curls I just found it frustrating that having it look good seemed as much an element of luck or the weather as anything else. Dreads take that impracticality out of the equation.
Describe your hair and your regiment? When I went to NYC a year and half ago I forgot a comb or brush. So I decided to start locking my hair. I made a more deliberate effort when I got back home two weeks later, researched a bit online and spent two days separating my hair into 35ish sections using the twist and rip method and Youtube videos. Currently my regiment consists of bleaching my roots once a month, separating dreads if I feel them growing together, and drying them out really, really well after showers which often means no hats or wearing it up the day I wash it.
37
Obsidian
39
“
It’s really
hard to
when it’s a
of bit
love your hair mystery
how to make your hair it's
best
What inspires your creativity? Spite. It’s embarrassing how often I find my mind dancing in “I’ll show you” land while I’m in the flow. If you had to spend the day with someone dead or alive, who would it be? I’'m thinking too much about if I think the person would like me to answer truthfully. I’'m also thinking about if I would like them. I danced with Ira Glass, that’s good enough for me.
Where would you like to see your art one day? The no-nonsense appeals to me. I’'d love to use my work in a journalistic way. What advice would you give to your younger self? Don’'t trust adults. The adults who love you have your best interest in mind which makes it easy to trust them when you don’'t know what else to do but unless you are trying to be like the adults giving the advice you need to find adults you admire and trust and emulate them—to a certain degree.
Do you think the Northwest lacks a platform for women of color, why or why not? Everywhere lacks of platform for women of color but the Northwest is no exception. The influx of a new brogrammer culture in Seattle has resulted in a lot of the counter culture uniting against them, part of this rhetoric involves some kind of preservation of racial and gender equality of the past. But that'’s not how I remember it. Obsidian
I remember a Seattle with a thriving white male alternative music scene that was promising and supportive if you were both white and male. Retellings of the story Seattle has come to adopt some the creatives that hailed from Olympia, Portland, and even places like Bellingham and Anacortes. I left Seattle 10 years ago because it seemed boring and less progressive than these other small towns. If you want to see how far we come I encourage a read of The Stranger’s report following the Mardi Gras riot of 2001 in which not only is the “young black male” trope is used as singular cause of the riot but The Urban League of Seattle is accused of not taking responsibility for it’s community. Its written exactly the way a conservative would write today about Muslims not condoning terrorists. I think white guilt is a big motivator in Seattle and I seldom feel like the interest in providing a platform for women of color is anything more than the desire to appear diverse. The problem then becomes minorities, like myself, get sick and tired of such a pedestrian concern and we go elsewhere. How can we thrive in this city if Seattle still functions on this simpleminded level? I don’t want to spend my life explaining redlining and other really elementary elements of racial inequality to adults. I'’d rather be in a place where people are past that and I can express more nuanced insights to my experience as a person of color in America. What does sisterhood mean to you? Sisterhood is seeing yourself in other women.
41
A
lana
Alana is the kinda lady that knows everyone that’s anyone. Friday night we breezed from bar to bar and painted the town multiple shades of red.
B
g ein
rt a p a
nity u m om
on
ill, H l o t Cap i se e h t of by all
le c t i l ht g i t is f th ded n ly u ro kab r r u a s I’m rem , e v i ract t t ple a o e y l p l rea ted n e l a t
t
o
Obsidian
43
Where are you from? Seattle! Legally I was born in Bellevue, but I often omit that information. My family has been living here since the 1940’s. I was raised on Beacon Hill and in the Central District, but went to Puyallup for high school which was totally perfect because there were no black people and lots of racism. How would you describe your personal style? Slightly edgy takes on classics. My silhouette is really important to me, especially since I shaved my head. Given my height and frame, it became really crucial that I feel feminine, sexy, and powerful in whatever I’m wearing. When and why did you decide to cut your hair off? I guess I’'ve known I would eventually shave it since I was a teenager. I didn’t want to have relaxed hair forever, but I was unsure of when I would decide to make the call. I transitioned slowly. My hair used to fall down to my breasts and I moved into a pixie. From there I shaved the sides and only had hair on top. I got bored with my haircut and I couldn’t think or anything else to do with it, so I figured it was time to say goodbye. I was dating a woman at the time who was dying to see me bald, so I surprised her for Valentine’s Day. Was your family and friends always supportive of your style? In general, yes. Maybe not. Growing up I was too white for my family and not black enough for a bunch of Obsidian
suburban white kids who could only wrap their heads around a flamboyant stereotype. My family celebrates Kwanzaa and we often have these big debates about black culture, and I used to get attacked for being educated and still choosing to straighten my hair. Nowadays I feel supported by everyone. What would you say to those who don’t have the positive reinforcement of family or friends when pursuing a passion? People will come around or they won'’t, but they don’'t have to feel your unhappiness and they don'’t have to live your life. Ultimately you have to do what’s best for you. What advice would you give to your younger self? My mom told me in middle school that my classmates had no time to think about me because they'’re all thinking about themselves. I wish I would have believed her then because she was SO right. Also I would tell her to try harder in high school and to worry less about boys. They sure as hell aren’t worrying about you, baby Alana. They sure as hell aren'’t. What’s your dream job? I want to be a Professor of English Lit. I'd like to teach 15th and 16th century British literature and be constantly researching and getting published in scholarly journals. I'm going to look so good as a professor. If you had to spend the day with someone dead or alive, who would it be? Michelle Obama. Enough said.
Future art/music projects? I’'ve been doing a little bit of modeling which I would like to keep doing as long as people keep asking me to. I’ve been dying to play the drums in a band, but starting a band is like trying to start a new relationship; everyone has to be on the same page. It’s hard. I’ll be patient.
What inspires your creativity? Being a part of this tight little community on Capitol Hill, I’'m surrounded by all of these really attractive, remarkably talented people. Creative energy here is so abundant, I feel like I’m bathing in it all the time. Where are some of your favorite places to go in Seattle, and Why? Music venues that are nostalgic for me, like Chop Suey and El Corazon. I’'ve been at Big Mario’s almost every day for five years, which is not really something to be proud of, but I love it there. There will always be buddies behind the bar and sitting at it. I guess really my favorite places to go are actually bar stools...wherever my friends are working.
What does sisterhood mean to you? Unconditional support Do you think the Northwest lacks a platform for women of color, why or why not? Absolutely! The Northwest still doesn’'t know what to do with people of color, let alone women of color specifically. I don't have any ideas on how to improve this per se, but I try to introduce myself and befriend women of color when I see them.
What is the most humorous or strangest reaction/story regarding your style? I like to wear this big circle scarf over my head during the fall and winter because my scalp gets so cold. I was at the bar the other day and someone told me I looked like a desert sniper. I really don’t have a good answer for this.
You mentioned the band “Black Pussy.” What upsets you about this? This is a good one! I’'m glad you remembered. It'’s a bunch of white guys once again taking from me. From us!. You had to have that too, huh? I couldn›'t keep my black pussy? Couldn›'t have that? I really want to start a band with some queer POC'›s and just start playing as Black Pussy. Just straight up take the name that›'s rightfully mine. I would love to have that argument with them. I would love for them to fight me on that. Because this black pussy is not yours for taking, it is not edgy, it is not kitsch. It’'s hissing between my legs and
Current music playlist and/or favorite book? I listen to lot of trap rap. It’s weird because I never have would have predicted how much I would love that shit. A lot of Celine Dion lately. A lot of Ginuwine. My favorite book is called A Fraction of the Whole by Steve Tolz. It’'s this insanely entertaining father and son adventure story and the father is always going off on these intellectual rants. This is the book that made me an atheist. I love it.
you c a n’t 45
ha ve it, white g u ys.
Obsidian
47
Given my height and nd f r ame,
eel femine ly crucial that I feel eally eal e rreal me cam it beca
sexy and
powerful in whatever I’m wearing
Obsidian
49
13
Must Reads For The Black Feminist In Training
Words By Ashley C. Ford
Fight the power: a starter reading list for the young black feminist.
You would think that after attending primary through secondary school with a 95% black student population, my black history education wouldn’t have been so severely lacking. To be fair, my education regarding women in history and feminism was almost nonexistent. My freshman year English teacher was unmarried, owned her own home, and drove herself all over the country to see her favorite bands in concert. She was my epitome of cool. Not once did I think of her as a feminist. I mean, she wasn’t angry all the time, nor did I believe she hated men. I’'d never even heard of a black woman being referred to as a feminist. Like most first-generation college students, I didn’t know how much I didn’t know until someone made me read a book about the gaps in my learning. I was hooked. I devoured book after book about the history of my race and gender. Some books relied heavily on scholarly Obsidian
research, others weaved tales from personal experience, or were inspired by women they knew. It did not bother me that I needed to do reading outside of the classroom to truly understand how racism and sexism play a role in the subjugation of women like me, but it did upset me that my history had been rendered practically invisible in all my pre-university education. Who knew I came from such complexity? My hope is that this list will reach a girl (or a teacher with the foresight to pass it on) long before these titles reached me. With stories like these in my head, I imagine I could have faced certain insecurities about myself with more confidence in my path and purpose. I would like to see that happen for more young black women who find blank spaces where their history should be. I hope they find power between these pages.
1. The Bluest Eye by Toni Morrison. In the story of a child desperate to be counted among the beautiful, Pecola Breedlove is the manifestation of her community’s self-hate and disregard for the innocence of black girls. Gorgeously written by the inimitable Toni Morrison, this book remains relevant and startling in its raw portrayal of colorism and grief.
7.
When Chickenheads Come Home to Roost. First, read “T he Mother”…then see if you can stop yourself from reading every other word in this book.
9. Women, Race & Class by Angela Y. Davis.
The mark of an excellent writer is someone who can take a complex idea and make that thought accessible. In this book, Angela Davis has taken years of research and spun it into a conversation between herself and the reader. This is the book you’ll quote. This is the book you’ll hand your friends who ask where you learned so much.
2. Sister Outsider by Audre Lord.
If nothing else, read these three contributions to this collection: 1. “Poetry is Not a Luxury,” 2. “Man Child: A Black Lesbian’s Feminist Response,” and 3. “T he Master’s Tools Will Never Dismantle the Master’s House.”
3.
10. Mama Day by Gloria Naylor. Who wouldn’t want to grow up to be a bit like Mama Day? A 100-year-old black woman who conjures lightening, fights evil, and loves fiercely? Sign me up. So often, black women are denied representation of possessing power for the benefit of our families and ourselves. Mama Day is written in direct opposition to that trope. You don’t want to cross her, and you definitely don’t want to cross anyone she loves.
Their Eyes Were Watch. Janie Crawford is a black woman who longs for the freedom to live and love on her own terms. Through a series of less-than-fulfilling romantic entanglements, she finds the courage to pursue her desires and defy any plan for her life that isn’t her own
4. Divided Sisters: Bridging the Gap Between Black Women and White Women by Midge Wilson and Kathy Russell. Intersectionality is still something we struggle with in the feminist community. In truth, there is no version of feminist equality that shouldn’t include all women. This book offers a look at the changing relationship between white and black women throughout history. I must note that this is only one kind of intersectionality, and we should always be learning the stories of our sisters who don’t identify as black, white, heterosexual, cissexual, or without disabilities.
11. Redefining Realness by Janet Mock.
The influence of trans women has been largely absent, or openly disregarded, in discussions on feminism. Janet Mock has been a highly visible advocate for people who identify as trans. Her book recounts her personal journey finding the courage to stand as a woman
12. For Colored Girls Who Have Considered Suicide When
5. Black Feminist Thought: Knowledge, Consciousness, and
The Rainbow is Enuf by Ntozake Shange A 20-part “choreopoem” effectively sharing the struggle of the black woman’s experience. This play is a journey of the individual pains we experience, and how we are made stronger by sisterhood.
the Politics of Empowerment by Patricia Hill Collins. The holy grail of black feminist theory and history. You need this one now. As in, buy it before anything else.
6.
13. Ain’t I A Woman? Black Women & Feminism by bell hooks From comfort girls to mammies to high-powered bitches, black women have been routinely stripped of their femininity in theory and practice. bell hooks stands up for black women expressing femininity uniquely and without the constraints of perceived white superiority.
Naked: Black Women Bare All About Their Skin, Hair, Hips, Lips, and Other Parts edited by Ayana Byrd and Akiba Solomon. How many times have you heard a fabulous older woman wish she’d learned to love her body earlier? This collection of essays is filled with the voices of black women learning to love (almost) every inch of their round, tall, brown, bright, and perfectly imperfect bodies.
51
The only thing we consume more of than
CONCRETE Obsidian
is WATER Photography by Joy Strange All words from the 99% Invisible episode, Hard to Love a Brute
53
Obsidian
55
Obsidian
57
Concrete looks good in photographs. It provides a neutral background to bring out people’s skin tones, or the color of
photographs.
Concrete looks good in their clothing Fashion photographers
it provides a neutral background to bring discovered this first, but in recent years, out people’s skin tones, or the color of pockets of the internet started to
Fashion
their clothing appreciate these concrete buildings
discovered this first, but in recent years, pockets of the internet started to appreciate these
Obsidian
concrete buildings
photographers
59
Obsidian
61
Obsidian
Call Your Sista Interview: Janell Langford Photography: Joy Strange Every issue our editor-in-chief, Janell Langford has a tete-a-tete with her own real-life sister, Nicole Bagby in this column. It's advice on all subjects from an unparalleled source of love, insight, and wisdom.
63
“some people donʼt like natural hair, but itʼs only because weʼve been programmed to believe that straighter hair is more beautiful. Donʼt make someone elseʼs opinion your problem” Obsidian
How long have you been natural and why did you decide to go natural? 2008 was when I started to go natural but 2011 is when I cut off the remaining relaxer on the end of my hair. In the past I've made several attempts to live natural but I succumbed to desire of wanting bone straight hair or looking for a manageable solution; essentially always going back to the “creamy crack”. This time would be different now that I had a baby daughter. My intentions were to never expose her to the “relaxed life”. I decided I would walk the natural hair journey with her.
styling options with kinky curly. So I would encourage to stay strong; love the the hair you were born with. Yes, some people don’t like natural hair, but it’s only because we’ve been programmed to believe that straighter hair is more beautiful. Don’t make someone else’s opinion your problem. How did family and friends react to your decision to go natural? Most of my family and didn’t have much to say or even noticed. Many thought I wearing a wig. There were a handful of people that would make comments like ‘oh well you can (go natural) do that because you have that g “ ood hair”.
Describe your hair? Recently I let my stylist chop of 6 six inches. So right now I’m rocking a short natural bob like style. It'’s natural black in color with some salty strands sprinkled throughout. Like my skin I consider the texture of my hair to be a combination. The hair near my crown lacks density it once had and has more of a wavy 3b curl pattern. The rest of my hair has a kinky curly to a kinky coily texture. I tend to experience a lot of shrinkage, frizz, tangles, and dryness with my hair.
What was your response to them? There is so no such thing as good hair, more good hair products. What does sisterhood mean to you? hood with a sister?
Growing up in the
What advice would give someone who is transitioning? I would advise a big chop. Just start fresh. You take time to learn other things that you care about why not do this for your hair. Give up heat and read the labels of your hair products like you would your food products. Youtube, Pinterest and the internet in general in has a wealthy of tips and ideas that will assist in finding the best fit for you. Find a blogger our a youtuber with a hair texture similar to yours and mimic their routines - tailoring it to you. Drink plenty of work and take vitamins. And finally give it 3-6 months before giving up on being natural.
Describe your regiment? I tend to wash and condition my hair once a week or once every other week. Lately my goal has been to deep condition my hair once weekly. I also take daily GNC Women’'s Hair chews; a dietary supplement that contains Biotin. Whatʼs your usual go to style? If I’m rocking my natural hair the “wash n go” is my go to style however I often can be spotted with a wig on to add versatility in my look. It all depends on time and where I’m going. What are your top three favorite products and why? Eco styler gel — I use this more than any other product. I’m still searching for the shampoo, conditioners, and twist and go stylers I can’t live with out.
The weather is quite deferent than Atlantaʼs weather. What advance would you give us Seattle sisters who are exposed to a wet climate? Protective styles are great go to’s for rainy weather but don’t let your go-to hair do become your clutch. Be sure to let your breathe and continue to maintain a healthy routine with protective style.
Had you always embraced your texture? No definitely not. Even today I struggle with my embracing my hair texture. There are days when i get multiple compliments about my hair or the curls and I think to myself and often out loud “really?” Clearly I don’t see what others see.
Do you have any hair crushes? Too many to name but I'll try to keep it to 10. In no particular order (many are youtubers): My Daughter • My Sister • Mini Marley • Mo Knows Hair • Naptural85 • SimplyBiancaAlexa • MahoganyCurls *Solange • Folake Huntoon • Tracee Ellis Ross
What advice would you give young African American girls who are not comfortable with their kinky curly hair? It takes strength and confidence to look different. For the most part, young girls and even teenagers just want to fit in. No one wants to be the person who stands out or gets made fun of because they are different. There are may benefits and
What are your favorite blogs/YouTube channels? Curly Nikki (blog), Naptural85 (youtube), Mini Marley (youtube), Mahogany Curls (youtube), HeyFranHey (youtube/ blog), Mo Knows Hair (youtube /blog), My Natural Sista (youtube), and The Platform - Defining Beauty (youtube)
65
Obsidian
Felicia Jacket– - Solange Jumpsuit Watch Out for Designer
NATACHA BACO MUSE COLLECT ION
Paris based designer, Natacha Baco has revealed the lookbook for its Muse collection and its a totally dream come true for Ankara lovers. The trendy urban and feminine line is beautifully tailored using beautiful African fabrics also known as Ankara. The collection features chic little dresses with sexy cut outs, jumpsuits, skinny pants and matching sets with fun, playful details like peplums and shorts. It is chic and beautiful, casual enough for about any kind of outing. 67
Maelys Dress -– Fatou Dress
Obsidian
69
Malaika Dress
Obsidian
Pato Top - Jeanne Skirt
71
Suzanne Dress - Melocy Dress
Obsidian
73
Obsidian
Keba Bustier - KilImanjaro
75
Black People Who Don’t Like Natural Hair A Natural Hair Discussion by Dr. Phoenyx Austin I was part of a discussion this past weekend where the hot topic of choice was black people who don’t like natural hair. The discussion was actually initiated after I received a tweet from a beautiful natural haired girl who asked for my opinion on why black men don’t like natural hair. Now questions like this are often a touchy subject for black women, and black people in general, but I wanted to offer my honest opinion. So what was my response? Basically I responded that it’s been my observation that most of these black men who dislike natural hair actually have a “complex” most often due to systematic brainwashing. I don’t think it’s as simple as just having a “preference.”
" black men who dislike natural hair actually have a complex most often due to systematic brainwashing "
But do I get angry at or bash these black men? No. Not especially when I see how they (and black women) are flooded with images of a certain “standard of beauty.’ And not especially when these same black men even witness so many black women lending validity to this “standard of beauty” when we choose to alter our appearance to look more like our non-black female counterparts.
Sometimes we make jokes about these complexes in the black community—think Uncle Ruckus from The Boondocks— but it’s actually a very serious topic. And the issue is not limited to the United States. For instance, I was reading an article in The Grio just yesterday about the growing trend of skin bleaching in Jamaican slums. It appears that despite widespread health warnings, many adult Jamaicans are obsessed with using risky methods to lightening their own and even their children’s skin. The story created much discussion on The Grio’s site, and many black people here were quick to make statements about how “sad” and “mentally enslaved” those poor Jamaicans are. But for me, this growing practice in Jamaica is no different than when black women in the United States continue to relax their own and their 6 year old child’s hair—especially after we’ve all seen the coda can scene in Good Hair.
And for me, the natural hair issue is really no different than the “color complex”- namely where black people have a preference and greater acceptance for lighter skinned individuals. So when it comes to my opinion on black men who dislike natural hair and have other “preferences,” if I were to put myself in these young black man’s shoes and attempt to think like them, my thought process would go something like this: “W hy get the generic, imitation doll when what I really want is the Barbie?” Get my drift?
Will all black people ever come to a point where we’re totally accepting of our natural beauty? I don’t know. The sad truth is that people, not just black people, do harmful things to themselves to look like other people all the time. It’s nothing new. But if anything at all, maybe continuing to have these types of discussions about race and natural hair, no matter how uncomfortable, will be a source of support and enlightenment for the individuals who are truly yearning to come to a place where they can finally accept and love themselves.
Obsidian
77
6 Carrier Oils
YOUR SKIN WILL LOVE DIY HEALTH + WELLNESS By Laura Wood
What are carrier oils, and how do they differ from other types of oils? Well, carrier oils are plant-based extracts from nuts or seeds. Sometimes they’re used alone, and sometimes they are mixed with other oils for multi-purpose combinations. Most importantly, they’re naturally derived and lack the fillers and chemicals found in store-bought skincare products. Just to be clear, Carrier oils aren’t the same thing as essential oils. Essential oils are great for skin, but carrier oils deserve their own recognition for their skin-loving benefits. Carrier oils have a very minimal smell, often can also be used in cooking, Obsidian
and tend to have a thicker consistency, making them great to blend with and dilute essential oils. Essential oils are also derived from plants through a distillation process, which uses water or steam. Different carrier oils can help certain skin conditions and improve the look and feel of your skin. When used properly, they can help control oil production, provide anti-aging benefits and hydrate skin and hair. Check out some of these common carrier oils and see what works for your skin type. There’s one for everyone!
Jojoba Oil
Made from jojoba seeds, jojoba oil is one of the most common carrier oils out there, especially since it can be used to help nearly all types of skin. Full of fatty acids and vitamin E, it’s incredibly moisturizing without leaving a heavy residue. It'’s great for combination skin, can be used to nourish dry skin and even helps oily skin regulate oil production as it mimics your skin’s natural oils. There’s nothing like a body balm for your skin, and this recipe with jojoba oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter, and beeswax does just about everything. 79
Rosehip Seed Oil
Deeply moisturizing, rosehip seed oil is an amazing option for those looking for a dry skin treatment. With rich nourishment, it also makes for a great anti-aging ingredient, particularly around the dreaded crow’s feet around the eyes. You’ll see firmer, smoother skin with rosehip seed oil as its vitamins A, C and E protect and renew skin. It’s a light oil, but not recommended for acne-prone skin. You can use rosehip seed oil to make an anti-aging face oil or with rosewater for a hydrating serum to use throughout they day.
Obsidian
Coconut Oil Another great carrier oil for most skin types is organic virgin coconut oil. Rich in vitamin E, antioxidants and natural fatty acids, coconut oil hydrates dry skin head to toe and fights cellulite, stretch marks and keratosis pilaris. We have plenty of suggestions for using coconut in daily health and beauty routines (101 suggestions, in fact), but here are our 8 favorite beauty uses for it. 81
Sweet Almond Oil
Obsidian
Almonds are certainly a delicious protein snack, but the heavier oil from almonds is also great for your dry skin with its richness from vitamin E, fatty acids, proteins, and minerals. And a body oil is a great way to experiment with almond oil, especially combined with roses! Just add 1 cup of rose petals and 1 cup of almond oil and mix. It’s an extra moisturizing treat for those with very dry or sensitive skin, and you’ll be sure to smell beautiful.
Pomegranate Seed Oil
We love pomegranate recipes, and pomegranate seed oil is also fabulous for our skin. The fruit has been a health staple for thousands of years due to its many benefits. It can reveal younger looking skin by rejuvenating skin cells and inhibiting UVB damage. The anti-inflammatory oil is perfect for all skin types. Try this pomegranate beauty smoothie to start seeing brighter, smoother skin on the inside. 83
Avocado Oil Avocados are packed with fatty acids, making avocado oil a wonderful moisturizer for dry skin. Plus it contains vitamins A, D and E that help boost collagen production and fight aging signs like fine wrinkles. Rich avocado oil keeps the skin supple and promotes elasticity, making it a perfect oil for preventing stretch marks. Obsidian