new zealand
contents
arthur’s pass fox glacier DAY 1
christchurch DAY 2
DAY 3
DAY 4
drive to queenstown DAY 5
queenstown
8 18 24 34 50
DAY 7
milford sound
DAY 8
dunedin
DAY 9
moeraki/lake pukaki
DAY 10
lake tekapo
REFERENCE
index
66 84 96 102 118
8
CHAPTER 01
DAY 1 07 01 09
christchurch I had a restless sleep but that was to be
Later that evening I took the car out
expected after the flight over. I woke up
for a drive along the Summit Road
very early and took a walk around town
which runs across the mountains that
to get my bearings.
divide Christchurch and Lyttleton.
It was very windy early on but it turned
The road was quite narrow and steep
out to be a very nice and warm day.
but that didn’t stop the many cyclists
My walk took me along the Avon River,
and one lone jogger utilising the
through Victoria and Cathedral Squares
15km long stretch.
and finished up in the Botanic Gardens.
I followed the road across the
I stopped for a beer at Dux de Lux
top of the mountains and through
which was suggested to me by my taxi
to Sumner Beach where I found
driver from the night before.
Shag Rock.
Hotel So Christchurch
10
CHAPTER 01
CHRISTCHURCH
11
BRIDGE OF REMEMBRANCE BUILT TO COMMEMORATE BOTH WORLD WARS
12
CHAPTER 01
CHRISTCHURCH
13
LYTTLETON View from the Summit Road which divides Christchurch and Lyttleton
CHRISTCHURCH
15
LYTTLETON LOOKOUT LOOKOUT ON SUMMIT ROAD
18
CHAPTER 02
DAY 2 08 01 09
arthur’s pass I woke up around 5am and left
be this way for many of the sights
Christchurch around half past. It was
along the way.
nice and quiet and the sun was just
From Arthur’s Pass I continued my
rising behind me as I headed towards
journey to Fox Glacier, stopping at
the city outskirts. The traffic was sparse
Hokitika and Franz Josef along the
the whole drive through to Arthur’s Pass.
way. It had become quite overcast
It was quarter to 8 by the time I got to
and cloudy since leaving Christchurch
Arthur’s Pass which put me way ahead
and later that afternoon as I headed
of my planned schedule. I parked
into Franz Josef it began to rain in
the car and headed towards Devil’s
short spells. From what the locals tell
Punchbowl Falls. The walk to the falls
me it wouldn’t be the west coast if it
was quite steep and I imagined it would
wasn’t raining.
Devil’s Punchbowl Arthur’s Pass
20
CHAPTER 02
ARTHUR'S PASS
21
Devil’s Punchbowl Falls Arthur’s Pass
22
CHAPTER 02
ARTHUR'S PASS
23
Arthur’s Pass View towards christchurch
24
CHAPTER 03
DAY 3 09 01 09
fox glacier I awoke to the news that the day
much worth it. It began raining quite
before, two men were crushed by a
heavily once we were on the glacier
falling piece of the glacier. Later that
and it would continue to do so for the
day I found out that the men were from
rest of the day.
Clarinda, lived at number 12 and drove
I had a pleasant lunch at the Matheson
a blue sports car — just like me.
Cafe as the rain continued to fall.
I was still able to take part in the glacier
However, the rain ruined any chance
walk which was amazing. It was one
of me taking any of the traditional
hell of a hike to get there but it was very
images around the area.
Fox Glacier A recent rock slide near Fox Glacier
28
CHAPTER 03
Fox Glacier paths carved out by the glacier and rock falls throughout the centuries
FOX GLACIER
31
Fox Glacier Up close to A collapsed section of the glacier
32
CHAPTER 03
FOX GLACIER
33
Fox Glacier a carved out section of a nearby mountain, caused by one of the many rock slides that occur
34
CHAPTER 04
DAY 4
10 01 09
drive to queenstown Another early start to the day before
were a perfect excuse to stretch
the long drive to Queenstown. There
the legs.
were a few sights along the way that
The walk to Blue Pools was quite a
I had penned down to stop at, such
pleasant stroll through the forest and
as Thunder Creek Falls, Blue Pools
along a rope bridge to cross a river.
and Lake Wanaka.
Each of the walks thus far have been
It was quite foggy in the morning as
quite secluded and I have been the
I drove along the coast and that suited
only person trekking in the woods
me just fine. I stopped at a few lookouts
for miles. In fact it has been quite some
along the way to get some photos
time since I have seen another person
of the coast, mountains and the sunrise.
all day. Even cars coming the other way
The walks to the falls and the Blue Pools
have been few and far between.
Thunder Creek Falls Sunlight through the trees along the walkway to the falls
36
CHAPTER 04
DRIVE TO QUEENSTOWN
37
New Zealand Coastline Sunrise on the west coast of New Zealand.
40
CHAPTER 04
Thunder creek Falls One of the many waterfalls hidden around the new zealand highways
42
CHAPTER 04
Blue Pools the amazingly blue waters found all over new Zealand
DRIVE TO QUEENSTOWN
43
44
CHAPTER 04
DRIVE TO QUEENSTOWN
45
Blue Pools one of many rock stacks found along the shore
48
CHAPTER 04
DRIVE TO QUEENSTOWN
49
Queenstown Looking down on queenstown and lake wakatipu
50
CHAPTER 05
DAY 5
11 01 09
queenstown I began my day early again and drove
That evening I headed out to the
up to Glenorchy. The road travels along
Botanic Gardens and got some shots
Lake Wakatipu and has some fantastic
of the sunset over the lake. It was a
scenic views of the mountain ranges.
really relaxing scene. I had thought
It is said to be one of the best scenic
Queenstown to be more active during
drives around these parts and I can
the snow season but there were still
vouch for that.
plenty of tourists populating the town
Later that afternoon I headed up to
during mid-summer. I don’t believe I’ve
the gondola to get a birds-eye-view
heard a kiwi accent the whole time I’ve
of Queenstown.
spent in Queenstown.
The Remarkables Queenstown
52
CHAPTER 05
QUEENSTOWN
54
Lake Wakatipu The view from the drive towards Glenorchy
59
CHAPTER 05
QUEENSTOWN
61
Lake Wakatipu sunset as seen from the queenstown botanic gardens
QUEENSTOWN
63
Lake Wakatipu sunset over the lake
66
CHAPTER 06
DAY 7
13 01 09
milford sound I had the road all to myself on the drive
Sound was amazing and I felt very
from Te Anau to Milford Sound. The
small surrounded my huge mountains
road was lit by the moon for the first
on all sides. I stopped at a few
hour of the drive and that allowed for
lookouts including Mirror Lake and The
some nice photos. Leaving early meant
Chasm and both were awesome. Also
I could stop at a few of the lookouts
fascinating was the kilometre long one-
on the way into Milford Sound rather
way-tunnel down through the mountain.
than later in the day which would
The cruise through the Sound wasn’t
have prolonged my drive to Dunedin
very long but still pleasant, especially
in the afternoon. Furthermore, going
with the free breakfast. The ride took
early meant that I would also have the
us right out to the Tasman and back. It
landscape all to myself.
turned into a bright sunny day which
The scenery on the way to Milford
made the cruise even more enjoyable.
Milford Sound Snow capped mountains surrounding the sound
68
CHAPTER 06
MILFORD SOUND
69
Mirror Lake The mist and fog lifting over the placid and still surrounds
77
CHAPTER 06
MILFORD SOUND
79
The Chasm A brilliant rush of water from the Cleddau River which has scoured its way through solid rock
80
CHAPTER 06
MILFORD SOUND
81
Milford Sound A bright morning as we travelled by boat through milford sound
82
CHAPTER 06
Milford Sound Mountains surrounding Milford sound
84
CHAPTER 07
DAY 8
14 01 09
dunedin Dunedin appeared to be more of a
a little more time there and even jump
city than Christchurch. For one, there
in for a swim.
were multi-lane roads which I had not
From Tunnel Beach I drove around
come across anywhere else on the
the Otago Peninsula and headed into
South Island. Later I was to find out that
Larnach Castle. It wasn’t really a castle
Dunedin is the world’s fourth largest
in the European sense but more like a
city – in area.
mansion with a nice garden.
My first destination was Tunnel Beach.
That afternoon saw me undertake a
The walk down to the beach was
tour of New Zealand’s own Speights
through a private sheep farm and down
Brewery which was very entertaining
a very steep hill. The walk back up
and thirst quenching. After an uneasy
was especially arduous. The beach
introduction to Dunedin the city had
was very secluded and well sheltered
begun to grow on me by the end
and it would have been nice to spend
of my stay there.
Larnach Castle Dunedin
86
CHAPTER 07
DUNEDIN
87
Tunnel Beach A bright and very warm morning at tunnel beach
DUNEDIN
91
Larnach Castle Gardens The spectacular gardens in the castle grounds
92
CHAPTER 07
DUNEDIN
93
View from Larnach Castle The otago peninsula from the top of larnach castle
94
CHAPTER 07
DUNEDIN
95
Dunedin train station an icon of new Zealand
96
CHAPTER 08
DAY 9
15 01 09
moeraki/ lake pukaki I left Dunedin very early in the hope
The weather had been getting
of catching the sunrise over the
progressively warmer since the
Moeraki Boulders which was about
downpour in Fox Glacier and today
an hour and a half away. I had timed
was probably going to be the hottest
my trip well for the sunrise but not for
of the lot. I stopped off in Lake Pukaki
the tide. The water was right up against
for a coffee and got some photos of
the shore and had even submerged
the unbelievably blue lake. I could at
some of the boulders. None the less,
last get a glimpse of Mt Cook which
I was still able to get some decent pics
had previously been obscured by
before heading off to Lake Tekapo via
the clouds on the other side of the
Lake Pukaki.
mountain range.
Moeraki Boulders A frosty morning sunrise
100
CHAPTER 08
Lake Pukaki Mt Cook overlooking the brilliant blue of lake pukaki
102
CHAPTER 09
DAY 10
16 01 09
lake tekapo There wasn’t a lot to do at Lake Tekapo unless you had a boat or jet ski. The whole town comprised a few touristy shops and restaurants and not much else. There were quite a few avid photographers trying to get their own Church of the Good Shepherd shot and I was among one of them both at sunrise and sunset.
The Church of the Good Shepherd Lake Tekapo
104
CHAPTER 09
LAKE TEKAPO
105
Lake Tekapo The serene surrounds of Lake Tekapo
106
CHAPTER 09
LAKE TEKAPO
107
The Church of the Good Shepherd an historic icon of the mackenzie region
108
CHAPTER 09
LAKE TEKAPO
110
115
CHAPTER 09
LAKE TEKAPO
117
The Church of the Good Shepherd Majestic at Daybreak
118
CHAPTER 11
index
INDEX
a
arthur’s pass 18–23
b
blue pools 34, 42, 44, 45
c
the chasm 66, 77, 79 christchurch 8–17 the church of the good shepherd 102, 103, 106, 115
d
devil’s punchbowl falls 18, 19, 20, 21 dunedin 84–95 dunedin train station 94
f
fox glacier 24–33
l
lake pukaki 96, 100, 101 lake te anau 70 lake tekapo 102–117 lake wakatipu 50, 52, 54, 55, 59, 61, 62, 63 larnach castle 85, 90, 92 gardens 8, 90, 91 lyttleton 8, 12, 13, 14
m
mackenzie farmland 111 milford sound 66–83 mirror lake 66, 68, 69 moeraki boulders 96, 97, 98
p
panoramas 12, 52, 55, 59, 70, 73, 77, 108, 111, 115
q
queenstown 48, 50–65
r
the remarkables 50, 51
s
shag rock 16
t
thunder creek falls 34, 35, 41 tunnel beach 84, 86, 87, 88
119
120
CHAPTER 11
accommodation
places of interest
INDEX
Hotel So
YHA Te Anau
Glacier Lane B&B
LivingSpace
Oaks Shores
YHA Lake Tekapo
327-343 frankton road queenstown otago 9348 +64 3 450 0005
3 simpson lane lake tekapo south canterbury 7945 +64 3 680 6857
Christchurch Cathedral
Speight’s Brewery
Christchurch Botanic Gardens
Larnach Castle
165 cashel street christchurch canterbury 8011 +64 3 968 5050 pekanga drive fox glacier west coast 7952 +64 3 751 0016
cathedral square christchurch canterbury 8011 +64 3 366 0046
rolleston avenue christchurch canterbury 8011 +64 3 941 6840
Lake Matheson cafe lake matheson road fox glacier west coast 7952 +64 3 751 0878
Skyline Gondola brecon street queenstown otago 9348 +64 3 441 0101
29 mokonui street te anau southland 9600 +64 3 249 7847 192 castle street dunedin otago 9016 +64 3 951 5000
200 rattray street dunedin otago 9016 +64 3 477 7697 145 camp road otago peninsula dunedin 9077 +64 3 476 1616
The Church of the Good Shepherd pioneer drive lake tekapo south canterbury 7945
121