Edition 3
Java Junkie BArISTA CHAMPS western cape LEGADO COFFEE ROASTERS the inside story
COVER IMAGE: Kim Swan
BLACK GOLD wake up and smell the coffee
SCASA National Barista Competition 22 - 24 March 2012
22 March
V&A Waterfront 9 - 10am
National Cup Tasters Competition (semi’s)
PROGRAM: SCASA Nationa 10am - 6pm
22 – 24 M
National Barista Championships (semi’s) - 12 competitors - 3/region
23 March
9 - 10am
National Latte Art Competition (semi’s)
Competitions: V&A Waterfront 10am - 6pm
National Barista Championships (semi’s cont.)
10am - 6pm 21 March 2012
National Barista Championships Top 6 announcement
24 March
Barista Orientation Meeting: Judges Training:
9 - 10am National Barista Championships (final) - top 6
22 March 10am - 2012 6pm
National Latte Art Competition (final)
National Cup Tasters Competition (Semi-Finals) National Barista Championship (Semi-Finals):
Meet some of the al Competitions & SCASA AGM Baristas...
March 2012
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Samantha Moodley Woolworths
Phumlani Sibeko Stil Coffee
Travis Scott Lovejoy 10h00 – 11h00 Chirambasukwa (Compulsory) Woolworths Coffee Roasting 11h00 – 17h00Origin (Compulsory)
Bilbo Steyn
Kyle Fraser Colombo Fine Beverage Co
Craig Charity Craig-Go Coffee
Mikhael Bou-Rjeily Tribeca
Mandy Mitchelle Bread, Milk & Honey
Luyolo Ndandane
Wayne Oberholzer
Truth Coffee Coffee Origin Coffee 09h00 – Origin 10h00 Roasting Roasting Roasting 10h00 – 18h00 12 competitors (3 per region)
ContenTs 5
WC Barista Champs
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Top Barista - Wayne Oberholzer
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Coffee News
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Awesome Additions
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Coffee Roasters - Legado
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Coffee Through the Ages
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The Trendy Flat White
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Black Gold ‘‘If you want to improve your understanding, drink coffee ; it is the intelligent beverage.”. –Sydney Smith. Editor Tracy Ward Photographer Kim Swan javajunkiemag@gmail.com http://javajunkiecoffee.blogspot.com
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SA’s Regional Bar Cape
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rista Championship Town
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The Western Cape Scasa Barista Championships were hosted at Union Contestants make Hand three types of Roasters. beverages in 15 Formerly a minutes mechanical workshop. Espresso The setting Cappuccino was Signature beverage beautiful, with an exquisite view of Table Mountain as you walked outside. While inside we were surrounded by raw brick and steel - a perfect backdrop to a barista championship. Gerald and his team were a great support to Our Scasa Committee in Cape Town. The Vibe inside was one of passion and excitement, as Top local baristas produced artisan coffee made to world barista standards. Some long time veterans impressed our Judges with their awesome technical coffee making skills. The first time barista’s were passionate, and although new to the WBC manner of producing coffee, showed enthusiasm and charisma. They were eager to learn from their opponents and the judges.
OUR SPONSORS
It was a tough battle with competitor scores quite close, with some very creative signature drinks & presentations. Cape Town no doubt has a high standard set for our National Champs to be held from the 22nd - 24th of March. It looks like we can look forward to a tough but exciting National Championship. Coffee Passionate’ s come and support your local Barista’s as they battle it out to take the title of South African National Barista Champion. The Winner will represent South Africa at the WBC in Austria, in June this Year. Angeline McLagan Urban Espress EC Regional -National Coordinator of Scasa Speciality Coffee Association Of Southern Africa
THE TOP SIX
Wayne Oberholzer Lovejoy Chirambasukwa Mikhael Bou-Rjelly Mandy Mitchelle Bilbo Steyn
Origin Origin Tribeca Bread Milk & Honey Origin
We caught up with the newly crowned Western Cape Barista Champion, Wayne Oberholzer. 1. When did your coffee journey start? I first started in the coffee industry with Kyle Fraser from Colombo Tea & Coffee Company in 2008. We started out reading and researching as much as we 10
could about all the crazy things people were doing with coffee. 2. What has the journey been like? Highlights and lowlights? Highlights would be judging 5 Regional and 2 National competitions, and of course winning the Western Cape Regionals. Lowlights...the first week at Colombo
Introducing the Western Cape Regional Barista Champion...
Wayne Oberholzer
when I offered Vic, the boss at Colombo, instant coffee. Needless to say, I was reprimanded pretty quickly, ha ha ha. But in truth, there haven’t been too many lows. 3. Who is your Coffee guru/inspiration? I really look up to the likes of the guys from Intelligentsia and Square Mile. As well as a few guys in the industry in South Africa namely, Kyle Fraser (A great friend and mentor), Joanne Sarah Berry, and Craig Charity.
4. What’s your favourite brew method? I use both a Hario V60 and a Yama Syphon. I love the ritual of it, as well as the fact that I get everything that I am looking for in coffee from them. 5. Single origin or blend? Single Origin hands down! 6. How long have you been with Origin, what’s your role? I have been at Origin since 13 January 2011. I have a multitude of roles at Origin: training, equipment repairs and maintenance, site inspections and equipment recommendations. I also give talks on coffee and help out at events... so one could say I do a lot. 7. Where to from here on your coffee journey? I am still eager to do my WBC certification and become a certified Judge. I would love to represent South Africa at a world barista championship. I feel that the industry as it stands is still young and has got a long way to go... It’s all very exciting. 8. Tell us about the drinks you created for the regional championship. The whole concept for my performance was showcasing what I am looking for in coffee these days. Sweetness, acidity and body. I did not want roast taints and over baked tones into my coffee. I wanted to appreciate coffee for the wonderful fruit that it is. I used a Costs Rican coffee from the Tarrazú region. The farms name is Finca La Candelilla. It is owned by Rafael and Lucia Sánchez. The farm gets its wonderful name from the fireflies that appear over the farm at night. I was fortunate enough to get this beautiful coffee as a geisha varietal. This varietal is well known for its sweetness and acidity. 12
Two great characters in coffee. In order for it to shine in the cappuccino, I added a slightly darker roasted Gautemala Finca Santa Clara. With my Signature drink, I used some Cascara infused in a syphon and a Chinese oolong, infused with ginseng done in a glass tea pot. All the drinks were served in test tubes to help capture the fragrance of the coffee, and served from left to right. The idea being that the sweetness of the Cascara would help mitigate the sweetness and acidity in the coffee and bring out the body. To help this along I also pulled the first set of shots to let them cool and enhance the body. Next was the oolong tea which was sipped twice to cleanse the pallet. The body of the tea mitigates the body of the espresso and enhances the acidity and sweetness in the coffee. Thus showcasing the two major characteristics of this coffee and the particular varietal. Although the drinks were served together, the judges were advised that they were effectively two different drinks. Each with their own character and appeal.
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wesome Additions We asked a few friends what they like to add to their coffee. Here are their suggestions - try them, and let us know what you think!
“Flavoured syrups... especially hazel nut and caramel” Nicole
“A pinch of salt brings out the taste of filter coffee” Diane
“Cape Velvet” Michelle “Treacle Sugar” Louise “Love is.... sharing a cup of coffee” Adel “Friends” Craig
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“Nutella & Orange” Leigh “Red Bull” Janine “Whisky, Brandy, Kuhlua, Vanilla Essence, Ice-cream” Jean 13
Coffee Roasters
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with a view to die for...
Legado Roasters
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Come and join the conversation, we are learning new things everyday! Legado Coffee Roasters started at the end of 2010, after years of dreaming and planning. We found and started renovating a venue on a farm called Rosenview, situated on the border of Stellenbosch and Somerset West. The venue used to be a wine cellar about 100 years ago and had been used as a storeroom for the last 20 years. We started experimenting with our roasting on friends and family (the best place to start when setting up shop). As with start-ups, growth is slow, but it also gives ample time to think about your business philosophy and build a solid foundation. Since the start of Legado we had decided that our coffee would be sold and 16
consumed fresh ,and that we would commit to quality over quantity. We aim at running a sustainable business. It will take time, but we try and make decisions with the 3 P’s in mind: people, planet, and of course profit.
THE MACHINE - A 7kg Diedrich drumroaster It allows us to focus on roasting microlots of coffee, and to allott a specific roasting profile to
each coffee we offer. Our roaster works with Infra-red burners, using two thirds of the amount of gas that other drum roasters use.
THE PACKAGING We are also working towards having all our packaging be compostable/ecofriendly.
GREEN PRACTICE • Used Coffee Grounds - these given away to friends & family as a great additive to an effective compost mix. • Borehole - We use borehole water on the farm. • Promoting local business. We promote ourselves predominantly in the Stellenbosch/Somerset West area, to try & encourage local retailers to buy local goods. We are planning on developing the section in front of the roastery to be a large grass field for picnics & possible local markets in the future.
BUSINESS PRACTICE Since inception our goal has been to buy & sell coffee that is traceable back to farms/farmers/ coops and to be convinced that those farmers are receiving fair prices. We also want to make sure farmers are applying sustainable, and in many instances organic
methods of farming. We understand though that the emphasis on this is new to many people and we must have patience with the process towards this goal. Interesting enough, many coffee farmers in Ethiopia have been using ‘organic’ methods for ages. They don’t have the money to spend on pesticides and chemical fertilizers. Farmers and some coops also don’t have the money to join an organic certified organization or buy a label that declares them fair. The ideal would be to buy coffee directly from farmers/coops and stay committed in a long term relationship, where they are assured of continual support and we are assured of quality and sustainability. This ideal takes a lot of time and money to achieve. We are on a slow, but rewarding journey!
THE COFFEE We have been buying green coffee from only a few channels thus far: • TANZANIA - from the Kigoma region, on the banks of Lake Tanganyika. The coop is called Kigoma. This is through a company called Sustainable Harvest (www. sustainableharvest.com). Although we are very happy with this coffee and their story, most of their coffees are exported to the USA. • PERU & HONDURAS - we get two organic coffees here. • KENYA - through a Kenyan company 17
called Kiama, with an office set up in Cape Town. We have bought their Peaberry coffee, from a Mill/Coop called Kagumo-Ini. This is in the Nyeri area of Kenya, at the foot of Mount Kenya. How it tends to work in the African coffee industry is that farmers usually only tend up to 200-500 trees on their piece of land. They sell to and are members of a coop. This coop looks after the farmers and provides tools and fertilizers. We have been assured that Kagumo-Ini looks after their farmers very well. They have also won coffee competitions in the past. A possible visit to the coop by Andrew is planned in April. We are hoping to also have a look into farming practices, fair prices paid for farmer’s coffee and abour practices. • GUATAMALA - from Antigua. This is traceable back to a farm (or Hacienda) called Carmona (www.antiguacoffee. org). A new venture on the horizon is to purchase some great South and Central American coffees from brokers in the USA.
questions regarding the source and story behind the beans. We have now realised there is a lot to talk about. There is also an increasing variety of brewing methods, some new, some as old as the mountains themselves. Each method uses different ways of extracting flavour from the beans. We like to celebrate these methods. So our business is to do a lot of talking, training, explaining and exploring.
We believe that a big part of Legado’s ‘calling’ is education. For years people, including ourselves, have asked no 18
THE PARTNERS
Yes, we roast coffee for coffee shops, restaurants, guesthouses and such, but more importantly we want to create an awareness of the depth of the coffee story and an appreciation for it too. You will notice we refrain from roasting our coffee too darkly, as we believe in celebrating the quality and characteristics of the individual beans. Each coffee comes with a flavour profile and roasting the beans too darkly spoils that profile with a uniform flavour of smokiness and sometimes bitterness (depending also on the brewing method). Except for a fairly good business
combination of Marketing, Finance and Engineering, we are all massively passionate about coffee and people! Regardt: Regardt grew up in the Durbanville area. He studied Marketing at Stellenbosch University. After his studies he joined some friends in the UK where he worked in the food industry. Upon his return to South Africa he started a job with a leading international oil company. In the beginning of 2011 he joined Legado fulltime. He is passionate about coffee, branding and marketing. Andrew: Andrew grew up in the Bellville area, going to boarding school in Paarl. He studied Management Accounting at Stellenbosch University. After his studies he joined friends in the UK for a
couple of years working in the financial industry. Upon his return to South Africa he started work at a company in Cape Town city centre that is a third party administrator to the South African Hedge Fund industry. He is passionate about coffee, storytelling and people. Daniel: Daniel grew up in Stellenbosch area. He studied Industrial Engineering at Stellenbosch University. He worked in Johannesburg and the UK for a couple of years before returning to Cape Town. He is passionate about coffee and business, especially summing up a business’s overall ‘health’ and then putting systems in place to ensure growth and success. Come and join the conversation, we are learning new things everyday!
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MAGE: Justin Knott
Coffee Through the Ages...
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Prior to 1000AD: Ethiopian legend tells us of a goat herder, Kaldi, who noticed that his goats are friskier after eating red berries of a local shrub. 1000AD: Arab traders bring coffee back to their homeland and cultivate the plant for the first time on plantations. They also began to boil the beans, creating a drink they call qahwa (“that which prevents sleep”). 1453: Coffee is introduced to Constantinople by Ottoman Turks. 1475: The world’s first coffee shop, Kiva Han, opens. in the1600’s: Coffee enters Europe through the port of Venice, introduced to the West by Italian traders. In Italy, Pope Clement VIII, despite being asked to declare coffee an evil vice, decides to “baptize” it instead, making it an acceptable Christian beverage. 1607: Coffee is introduced to the New World by Captain John Smith, founder of Virginia at Jamestown. 1645: First coffee house opens in Italy.
an English coffee house: A sign reading “To Insure Prompt Service” (TIPS) was placed by a cup. Those desiring prompt service and better seating threw a coin into a tin. 1672: The opening of the first Parisian café dedicated to serving coffee. 1675: The Turkish Army surrounds Vienna. Franz George Kolschitzky, a Viennese who had lived in Turkey, slips through the enemy lines to lead relief forces to the city. The fleeing Turks leave behind sacks of “dry black fodder” that Kolschitzky recognizes as coffee. He claims it as his reward and opens central Europe’s first coffee house. He also establishes the habit of refining the brew by filtering out the grounds, sweetening it, and adding a dash of milk. 1683: The first coffee house opens in Vienna. The Turks, defeated in battle, leave sacks of coffee behind.
They have in Turkey a drink called coffee. This drink comforteth the brain and heart and helpeth digestion. Francis Bacon (1561 - 1626)
1652: The first coffee house opens in England. Coffee houses are called “penny universities” - a penny is charged for admission and a cup of coffee. Edward Lloyd’s coffee house opens in 1688. It eventually becomes Lloyd’s of London, the world’s best known insurance company. The word “TIPS” is coined in
1690: With a coffee plant smuggled out of the Arab port of Mocha, the Dutch become the first to transport and cultivate coffee commercially, to Ceylon and in their East Indian colony - Java, source of the brew’s nickname - for cultivation.
1713: The Dutch unwittingly provide Louis XIV of France with a coffee bush. His descendants will produce the entire Western coffee industry when in 1723 French naval officer Gabriel Mathieu de Clieu steals a seedling and transports it to Martinique. Within 50 years, an official survey records 19 million coffee trees on Martinique.
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Eventually, 90 percent of the world’s coffee spreads from this plant. 1721: First coffee house opens in Berlin. 1727: The Brazilian coffee industry gets its start from seedlings smuggled out of Paris when Lieutenant Colonel Francisco de Melo Palheta, who would later be dubbed “the James Bond of Beans” by National
Geographic, is sent by the government to arbitrate a border dispute between the French and the Dutch colonies in Guiana. 1732: Johann Sebastian Bach composes his Kaffee-Kantate - partly an ode to coffee and partly a stab at the movement in Germany to prevent women from drinking coffee (it was thought to make them sterile) - the cantata includes the aria, “Ah! How sweet coffee tastes! Lovelier than a thousand kisses, sweeter far than muscatel wine! I must have my coffee.” 1750: One of Europe’s first coffee
houses, Café Greco, opens in Rome. By 1763, Venice has over 2,000 coffee shops. 1773: The Boston Tea Party makes drinking coffee a patriotic duty in America. 1775: Prussia’s Frederick the Great tries to block imports of green coffee, as Prussia’s wealth is drained. Public outcry changes his mind. 1822: The prototype of the first espresso machine is created in France, by Louis Bernard Rabaut. 1885: A process of using natural gas and hot air becomes the most popular method of roasting coffee. 1886: Former wholesale grocer Joel Cheek names his popular coffee blend “Maxwell House,” after the hotel in Nashville, TN where it’s served. Early 1900’s: In Germany, afternoon coffee becomes a standard occasion. The derogatory term “Kaffee Klatsch” is coined to describe women’s gossip at these affairs. The term has since been broadened to mean relaxed conversation in general. 1900: Hills Bros. begins packing coffee in vacuum tins, spelling the end of the ubiquitous local roasting shops and coffee mills. 1901: The first soluble “instant” coffee is invented by Japanese-American chemist Satori Kato of Chicago. The first Italian coffee machine also dates back to 1901 when an engineer, Luigi Bezzera registered his patent in Milan. 1903: German coffee importer Ludwig
Roselius turns a batch of ruined coffee beans over to researchers, who perfect the process of removing caffeine from the beans without destroying the flavour. He markets it under the brand name Sanka, which is introduced to the United States in 1923. 1905: The first commercial espresso machine is manufactured in Italy. 1906: George Constant Washington, an English chemist living in Guatemala, notices a powdery condensation forming on the spout of his silver coffee carafe. After experimentation, he creates the first mass-produced instant coffee. 1907: In less than a century, Brazil accounts for 97 per cent of the world’s coffee bean harvest.
whole bean coffee. 1991: Caffé Carissimi Canada, a network of espresso service providers is formed in Canada, modelled after a visit to Franco Carissimi (roaster and equipment manufacturer) in Bergamo Italy. It becomes the fastest growing network of private and independent super automatic machines providers in Canada. Today: Coffee is the world’s most popular beverage: More than 400 billion cups are consumed each year. It is the world’s largest commodity, second only to oil. by Mark Schapiro “Muddy Waters”
1920: Prohibition goes into effect in United States. Coffee sales boom. 1938: Having been asked by Brazil to help find a solution to their coffee surpluses, Nestle company invents freeze-dried coffee. Nestle develops Nescafé and introduces it in Switzerland. 1942: During WWII, American soldiers are issued instant Maxwell House coffee in their ration kits. Back home, widespread hoarding leads to coffee rationing. 1946: In Italy, Achilles Gaggia perfects his espresso machine with a piston that creates a high pressure extraction to produce a thick layer of cream. Cappuccino is named for the resemblance of its colour to the robes of the monks of the Capuchin order. 1971: Starbucks opens its first store in Seattle’s Pike Place public market, creating a frenzy over fresh-roasted 23
VS CAPPUCCINO
vs
FLAT WHITE
Espresso based
Espresso based
A dry-head of foam
Microfoam (about 6mm thick)
Latte Art impossible
Latte Art is possible
Let’s explore that trendy Flat White a little more... The Facts: • The flat white is reputed to have been created in the early 1980’s in Australia • Typically served in a 150–160ml cup. • Microfoam is used - it has a smooth, creamy texture • It is an espresso based drink
The Steps: 1. Start with warming your cup. 2. Express about 60ml, dripping like honey into your cup! 3. Grab a stainless steel jug and pour in around 350ml milk. Insert the steam wand and turn it on full! Make sure that you don’t get loud noises from this process. Place the wand so that you get
a swirling motion going. HINT: Ensure that Hold your hand against the temp the jug stop when it doesn’t go gets too hot to hold over 60-70C. if you don’t have a The idea is temperature gauge. that the milk becomes smooth and creamy. 4. Pour your microfoam over your expresso. There should really only be about 6mm visible micro-foam on top of your expresso... unlike a traditional cappuccino which is piled high with foam. The Flat White lends itself to making what is referred to as Latte Art. With some practice a barista can make charming patterns such as leaves and hearts.
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ADVERTORIAL Multinational coffee companies now rule our shopping malls and supermarkets and dominate the industry worth over $80 billion, making coffee the most valuable trading commodity in the world after oil. But while we continue to pay for our lattes and cappuccinos, the price paid to coffee farmers remains so low that many have been forced to abandon their coffee fields. Nowhere is this paradox more evident than in Ethiopia, the birthplace of coffee. Tadesse Meskela is one man on a mission to save his 74,000 struggling coffee farmers from bankruptcy. As his farmers strive to harvest some of the highest quality coffee beans on the international market, Tadesse travels the world in an attempt to find buyers willing to pay a fair price. Against the backdrop of Tadesse’s journey to London and Seattle, the enormous power of the multinational players that dominate the world’s coffee trade becomes apparent. New York commodity traders, the international coffee exchanges, and the double dealings of trade ministers at the World
Trade Organisation reveal the many challenges Tadesse faces in his quest for a long term solution for his farmers.
Make sure that you get to watch this amazing movie!
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DRINK IT, WEAR IT.
SUSTAINABLE PERFORMANCE
Coffee is not only for drinking, but also for wearing. Wear it and you will feel the difference. sCafe® takes used coffee grounds and blends it with polyester to create this innovative new fabric. Coffee is a natural odour neutraliser, and these properties are present in the end result – sCafe® performance fabrics – ensuring that bad smells are eliminated. It is an environmentally friendly way of utilizing this natural resource. The fabric also dries very quickly, keeping you dry and has a very high UV protection factor. To test our new technology, find a stockist near you at www.firstascent.co.za