TABLE OF C.
EDITORS
CONTRIBUT.
VALENTINA ANGULO
What led you to pursue jewelry? Jewelry has always been part of my family as a highly symbolic, valuable, and personal possession. But what made me choose it as my career path was the fact that jewelry is, by itself, a sculpture in a smaller scale. Jewelry is an art expression that requires design choices and technical skill in order to be conceived. Why did you choose to focus on face jewelry? I focused on face jewelry because it is a subcategory that I fell hasn’t been explored much. Historically, jewelry and eyewear have been divided into two categories. I just felt the urge to create a new concept surrounding body adornment. My concept is not eyewear neither traditional jewelry, it is face jewelry. Can you tell us the story behind this collection? Coming from a place rich in culture, traditions and symbolisms, I decided to dedicate my work to the country that gave me everything -My Colombia-. This is my personal commitment towards my country and my gender. Through real testimonies, I intended to reconstruct the lost identities of real women affected by the ongoing war in my country. How much time did each piece take to make? It took me almost three months to do the initial research, the sketching and the rendering of the pieces. It took an additional four months to hand-fabricate each component of my collection. By this I mean, soldering, wax sculpting, casting, 3D Modeling, filing, polishing, metal forming, gold plating, etc‌ How did you decide on your materials? Since I decided to take a somewhat unconventional approach in terms of the overall looks and uses of my pieces, I decided to make them as delicate and jewelry-like as I could. I picked glass and sterling silver as my main materials mainly because the sterling is a highly reflective metal when polished. It is delicate because once you lay it over with a hollow glass ball it literally shines.
How did you decide on your materials? Since I decided to take a somewhat unconventional approach in terms of the overall looks and uses of my pieces, I decided to make them as delicate and jewelrylike as I could. I picked glass and sterling silver as my main materials mainly because the sterling is a highly reflective metal when polished. It is delicate because once you lay it over with a hollow glass ball it literally shines. What was your process to create the specific shapes? Concept wise, I was inspired by five real testimonies of women victims of the internal conflict in Colombia. I constructed five overlapping profiles that represent different facets of a women’s strength, vulnerability, and inner dwellings. Some women emanate and share their light, some others have fire in their eyes while some represent the poetic powers of water. There’s also women who fight to claim their territory and also women who rise just like air. These women dictated my final designs. Technically, I decided to use common symbolisms like water, snakes, feathers, in order to convey a rather abstract concept. What is your favorite piece out of the collection? “A spark of light from within” because I only wish these stories might spark light on somebody else’s heart. What are you trying to convey to other people with your collection? Reassure the power and strength of a multi-faceted woman.
Was it challenging to blend the history behind your pieces with current trends? Personally, as a consumer I do follow trends, but as a designer I tend to make up my own. Sometimes I feel that trends can limit my designs. And since I was dealing with such a symbolic concept, I just allowed the concept to guide me to the correct shape. Do you think Colombia has a global effect in terms of jewelry or is more localized? For sure, the current jewelry scene is booming, and many Colombian jewelry designers are sharing the message with the world about cultural awareness and detailed craftsmanship. How do you see your work evolving in the next years? My cousin has an online magazine called Mindful Feminism about (and I quote her) “women who want to feel centered and connected to their inner power.” One of her latest post really inspired me in a way I never thought possible. It was about this New York best-selling author Elizabeth Gilbert who argued that she followed her passion but says that she no longer recommends people to do the same. Instead she prompts people to follow their curiosity since the word “passion” can trigger feelings of stress and pressure. In this context, my work will evolve alongside my curiosity.
LUCIA MARTI
What led you to jewelry design? When I was a little girl, I would go window shopping with my mother. As a lover of jewelry herself, she taught me all she knew. Eventually, as I became older my curiosity grew and became as fond of jewelry as she was. Well, even more, turning it into my carrier. Where do you find your biggest inspirations? I find my biggest inspirations through fashion and architecture. More specifically, female artists such as Iris Van Herpen and Zaha Hadid. Which have always been an inspiration, breaking the barriers of technology and design. Tell us about the process of designing a collection Personally, I like to start with a theme. For this collection, my inspiration was passion. What is passion? Where does it come from? How does one represent it? As I ask myself all these questions, my creativity sparks. For me, passion is the urge to create. As a jeweler, I want to communicate that urge through jewelry. Passion, which comes from within, I myself associate it with the heart. It’s amazing how such a small organ in the body can transport blood to our entire body. Through veins, I created these pieces that work as a representation of “passion”.
What jewelry designer do you look up to the most? I love seeing other jewelers work but one I’ve looked up to for a long time has been Monica Sordo’s. Not only for her jewelry, but as a LatinAmerican jeweler! I had the privilege of working with her this past summer and she is truly an inspiration. Setting the bar high for the future of jewelry and Latin-American talent. What are you career goals and aspirations? As a soon to be Alumni from SCAD, right out of college I want to find a job where I could work as a translator of design. Truly learning how the industry works. Eventually though, I would love to create my own line of jewelry. Only time will tell! What advice would you have for prospective jewelry designers students? From what I have learned throughout my years at SCAD, I would encourage prospective jewelers to really experiment with all types of materials and techniques. I got to do this through collaborations. Also encouraged, I worked with many fashion designers that really pushed me to really step out of the box.
PIC
MELONEY MOORE