N° 17/12 EDITION
17
THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE
Everywhere i n the world It’s always Estetica time!
1 7 TH E D I T I O N 2012
R58.95 17/12
Feature Is your hair thinning or falling out? All you need to know Interview ghd’s CEO, Paul Stoneham News Estetica and ExclusiveBrandsTorino Joya Agate Drusy Rings
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N°1 AFRO SUPPLEMENT
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AFRO
AVAILABLE IN OCTOBER 2011 Supreme Oil An exquisite blend of 8 precious oils for all hair types
AFrO
THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE
MIZANI products are specifically formulated to care for the hair and scalp of Afro and excessively curly hair textures. Luxuriously rich in natural botanical ingredients, the unique formulas treat and nourish dry, rebellious hair.
N° 2/12 17/11EDITION EDITION N°
We‘ve given ESTETICA African roots. ESTETICA AFRO is an authentic top quality magazine with the main objective to inspire and educate. Showcasing relevant ethnic hair and beauty information, advice, product reviews, news, local and international talent.
IntervIew Local songstress Lira
For more information please contact the Mizani Product Manager Lindelwa Gama at lgama@za.loreal.com or call 011 286 0819
AFRO SUPPLEMENT
MAKe-Over Diva Divine competition winners
INSPIRATION Hairdressers Against Aids
FeAtUre traction Alopecia
INTERVIEW Jerome Sauls ADVICE Wig Wise
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w w w. e s te ti c a . c o . za
w w w. es t et i ca. co. za
C o N T E N T Hair: Essential Looks for Schwarzkopf Professional Creative direction: Steve Hogan Photo: Peter Gehrke Make-up: Gudrun Müller Styling: Lucy Manning Products: Schwarzkopf Professional
ESTETICA FASHION N0. 17/12 – SEVENTEENTH EDITION 2012
Published under licence from Estetica, Edizioni Esav srl, Turin/Italy Published by Topco Media 5th Floor Pinnacle Building Strand Street Cape Town Ph: 086 000 9590 Fax: 021 423 7876 Email: info@estetica.co.za Website: www.estetica.co.za
STAFF Publisher Richard Fletcher
Designers revealed in all the colours of the rainbow. Deceptively simple coifs oozed sophistication
General Manager Van Fletcher Editor Cindy Horton Sub-Editor Thulile Nxumalo Design Jayne Mace´ Talbot Ferguson
FASHION
12
Catwalks Pastel Palettes
16
Book Hair Travel
19 Hair Trend
Special Effects
20
Events International Trend Vision Award
22
Events Goldwell Color Zoom
24
Trends Subtle Shading
CONTRIBUTORS Photography Simon Deiner / SDR Photography
28
Nails Banging Nails
31
Beauty Make-up
Printers Paarl Media Paarl
33
Beauty Women
35
Beauty Men
36
Vision Elitist Freedom
Advertising & Business Development Manager Lizel Jonker Subscriptions ingrid.johnstone@topco.co.za
Sensational glamour: so elegant, so beautiful, and so alluring. These hair-do’s have a dazzling grandezza and magnificent radiance
Moda:
International
Trends
P RO F ESS I ONAL
44
Young American
94
Interview Adil Mehboob-Khan
48
Vintage Project
98
Interview Paul Stoneham
52
Nature’s Palette
100
Events
56
Guest Star
102 Events
MITCH Men
60
Primitive Beauty
104
Feature
Hair loss
66
Pure Energy
106
Interview
Elma Titus
70
A Tailor’s Story
110
Interview
Dr Kevin Alexander
74
Opposites Attract
112
Round Table Free Fall
78
Shining Red Carpet
114 Agenda Calendar
82
Absolutely Women
118
News
Report
86
Breaking Tradition
122
Products
Reviews
127
Subscriptions
128
Stockists
90 Stars of Inspiration
Hairdressers Against Aids
Firebrand 5997
amPliFy your PerFormance Heads may swing on the runway – but they really turn corners on the street and that’s where you are. Turning hair trends into style, living the look, creating hair to suit your fashion mood in your own way. Wella Professionals‘ care and styling ranges will deliver the best possible you. www.wella.com
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e D i t o r i a l Hair: Essential Cindy Looks Horton for Schwarzkopf Professional Editor Creative direction: Estetica Steve SouthHogan Africa cindy.horton@topco.co.za Photo: Peter Gehrke Make-up: Gudrun MĂźller Styling: Lucy Manning Products: Schwarzkopf Professional
Welcome to our first edition of 2012. The New Year gives us the opportunity to gain a new perspective, a fresh approach and to take advantage of new opportunities. However with these leaps of faith into untouched territory and new beginnings comes change. Change in your daily routine, change in your mind set and of course, change brings new challenges. I for one, find change a bit daunting to begin with, but once the first steps have been put into place, i find it quite refreshing and exciting. Therefore, I have decided to embrace the changes in my life this year with optimism and positivity. In the light of my new found freedom from change, I decided that it was time for ESTETICA to go through a mild transformation of its own. I hope you enjoy our subtle new look throughout the magazine and the new additions we have install for you this year. I am happy to announce that we will be showcasing a special feature in all our upcoming editions for the year. In this edition we explore the various causes and contributors to hair thinning and hair loss in women, men, children and adolescents. You will receive expert advice on making a diagnosis and the relevant treatment from Trichologist Elma Titus and Dr Kevin Alexander. ESTETICA investigates the variety of products available to assist with hair thinning and scalp conditions on the Product Review pages 122-125. In the Round Table Discussion, two local hair stylists and salon owners offer advice on ways to deal with clients experiencing hair loss and products they recommend. In addition, we will be publishing three gorgeous supplements this year. With the huge success of ESTETICA AFRO’s launch last year, we have decided to not only do one, but two AFRO magazines this year, as well as our forever popular Best Colour & Technique supplement. I hope that the year ahead is filled with promising opportunities, positivity and of cause, lots of laughter.
Cindy Horton Editor
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 11
Pastel
Palettes
Designers reveled in all the colours of the rainbow, heralding in spring and summer with collections that drew their inspiration from European art and films.
Siriano
Fabrics were flowing in either stunning solid hues or water-colour washes.
T
by Marie Scarano
here is always that special week in September that allows us to glimpse what we can expect following the long, cold winter months, and this year it was a particularly welcomed event, given the sherbet-esque colours that most designers chose for these delicious confections. From lime green, to canary yellow, fabulous fuchsia, and even tropical turquoise. For Preen, Aveda’s Paul Hanlon came up with a rolled up-do that evoked the 1940’s to second yet enhance the structured silhouettes cut by pencil skirts and trousers. First hair was brushed and then tightly rolled and twisted up and back before being pinned into place. The models were however, a bit “cheeky”, sporting apricot and mango blush and a bold and colourful block patterns that made this collection so mix&match perfect with the complementary solid coloured pieces. A more ironic flair was achieved when this geometric rigidity was interrupted by cascades of black and white flowers. Antoinette Beenders styled hair for Christian Siriano’s somewhat frillier collection, speaking volumes in poofs and ruffles and pleats in solid colours and white being an accent rather than a neutral. Beenders first made sleek braids with Aveda Control Spray and then used a flat-iron for texture before finger-combing them out for a naturally feminine look. Then, of course, an all-time favorite, Sophie Theallet presented her Deceptively simple ultra-feminine yet no-nonsense couture, embracing coifs oozed colour as she has never done before, but opting for lots sophistication of solid fuchsia, turquoise, and canary yellows, except when it came down to her multi-hued strappy sandals and shoes. As Theallet was admittedly inspired by the 1969 French film “La Piscine” for this collection, Didier Malige decided to follow suit with an instinctually sensual wet-look chignon – both fresh and French – empowering the women who confidently ooze femininity in these flowing flocks. Preen
Preen
C A T W A L K S
photooniPad Deceptively simple and elegant styles often take hard work and a professional touch, as the Aveda team of Beenders, Hanlon, and Malige demonstrate.
Whether up-do’s or down-dos, for the utmost elegance, professional styling products make a big difference.
Preen
Preen
Sophie Theallet
Sophie Theallet
All photos by Jon Gurinsky for Aveda
Catwalk photos: IMAXtree.com/Vincenzo Grillo
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 13
fashion week USA 1 12.indd 3
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Elene Cassis Jenny Packham
Jenny Packham
Jenny Packham
Jenny Packham
c a t w a l k s
Jenny Packham
Elene Cassis
Plenty of pastels for a soft babydoll look Cloudy prisms
Jenny Packham’s sumptuously fluttery collection was all soft and flowing, no matter what length, whether quasi-babydoll or sweeping the floor. Some ton-sur-ton crystals and beading added just the right bling, trimming decolletés and illuminating shoulders and bodices to draw attention up towards the face. Mostly solid colours ranged from white to tangerine and pale chartreuse, with some poppy red for true diva appeal. Silky and slinky fabrics were seconded by Leonardo Manetti, who styled hair for L’Oréal by parting it slightly to the side before smoothing it out into sleek elegant tresses that caressed the shoulder and moved naturally, making it the perfect complement to the flow of the dresses. L’Oréal Professionnel Perfect Shimmer shine illuminating mist gave the ultimate touch of elegance, once again demonstrating that beautiful, healthy hair is always right on trend. Simplicity continued to dominate in Elene Cassis’s collection, so sought after for her elegant, confident, and clean lines that are always feminine, always urban chic, and oohh-so wearable. This season Cassis opted for refreshing pastels like coral, powder blue, and canary yellow, while her signature black&white this year were relegated to function as neutrals, adding depth to an otherwise twodimensional minimalist look that evoked classic 1960’s contours. L’Oréal Professionnel’s Amit Abraham took the cue by bobbing hair to enhance the geometric colour – blocked feminine frocks: minimalistic but frivolous – crimping hair with L’Oréal Infinium 3 for wave patterns and finishing up with Fresh Dust for less shine and more matte effect. The final look was refreshing, breaking away from expectations of a vintage beehive updo or retrobob or sophisticated flip. “In order to add detail into the hair, you need to manipulate its texture …,” said Abraham. “The final texture of the hairstyle was inspired by the intricacy of the fabrics she used, a complementary contrast to Elene’s clean lines and geometric designs.”
L’Oréal Professionnel artists Leonardo Manetti and Amit Abraham drew inspiration from the collections for their catwalk coifs. Backstage photos courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel.
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 15
Hair
travel
More than one thousand images to celebrate hairstyling and its evolution. Hairstyles is a journey in time: how we have coifed our hair from antiquity to today.
T
16| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
Below: one of the one-thousand images that make up the heart of this book.
“The Art and Craft of Haidressing”, Gilbert A.Foan, 1936
“La Coiffu re
„La Peinture, L’Architècture“, aus La Vie Parisienne, 1910.
et Les Mod es”, 1922
Ancient to Present, published by Fiell, 576 pages, e 59.95.
here is nothing more characteristic about a person’s appearance, whether male or female, as his or her hairstyle. Our hair defines our style, our social class, our lifestyle. More than clothes, accessories, and often more than many words. It is therefore not surprising that hair has always fascinated experts of style and image. Hairstyling regularly goes beyond the confines of the salon and the mirror, even reaching bookshops, ending up side by side with much more controversial issues. Hairstyles Ancient to Present, by English author Charlotte Fiell, is a voyage into the world of hairdressing, a celebration of the art of styling hair, or moulding it and linking it to fashion. A true Bible of international hairstyling that reveals how we coifed our locks a century ago, during the Punk era, during the Renaissance, or in Ancient Greece. More than one-thousand photographs, portraits, and drawings. Indeed, a study of the evolution of hairstyling as an expressive tool and benchmark of costume. The cover (“Mystique” by Toni&Guy, 1985) is by Anthony Mascolo, as are many of the hair-do’s that illustrate the second part of this book. The book is also a limited edition, distributed exclusively in TIGI UK salons with great success. There are also plenty of historic and “precious” images: from powdered and abundantly decorated wigs of the XVIII century, where hair was plaited with ostrich feathers, flowers, and jewels, to the photographs of the stars of the silver screen of the 1940’s, with their hair slicked back to perfection. Hairstyles in fact celebrates even the creators of such works, the hairstylists themselves, and their capacity to mould and sculpt hair, to assimilate feminine desires and transform them into cut, colour, and style.
t Le iffure e “La Co
On this page, images of hairstyles and moments dedicated to hairstyling from the past.
Jean Harlow, 1933 (Getty Images)
13 es ”, 19 s Mod
Marguerite Chapman, 1935
Agnes Aires, 1920
Louise Brooks, 1929
Norma Shearer, 1929
Jean Harlow, 1930
“La Coiffure et
Les Modes”, 19
13
b o o k
Travelling back into time. In a book, hairstyling that was and that has made history
H A I R T R E N D
Special
effects Limi Feu Moschino
Catwalks photos: IMAXtree.com/Vincenzo Grillo
Paul Costelloe
John Rocha Viktor & Rolf
Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood
Yamamoto
Fendi
Serious backcombing, telescopic curls, unexpected partings and plaits, fluorescent colours. The prĂŞt-a-porter fashion shows for spring/summer 2012 are all about fantasy and esprit de vie. From Paris to Milan, the curtain goes up to reveal special effects and hi-tech ideas. From Fendi to Gaultier, Westwood to Limi Feu, the fashion shows bring hairstyles with big egos, full of potential for less over-the-top interpretations in salons. A plait is embellished with long leather ribbons, an up-do drapes over the forehead, a band of fuchsia light illuminates an otherwise simple chignon. Hair-power.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Ann Demeulemeester
Long live fantasy. The new season brings catwalks that focus on special effect fireworks. Haute couture inspiration transferred to high street design.
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 19
Future visions
Wella Professionals hosted the launch of their four hairtrends for 2012 and celebrated the winners of the International Trend Vision Award in New York.
Watch the video on your mobile With the QR-Code you can see a video of the event.
Esteticaevent! www.facebook.com/ estetica.it www.youtube.com/ esteticatv
T
he International Trend Vision Award gold medals were presented in the States before departing for their homes in Europe and Asia. The technical jury (led by Global Artistic Directors Eugene Souleiman and Josh Wood) analysed the work of 85 finalists from 49 different countries before settling on Hob Salon stylist, Jake Unger, from the UK for the Young Talent category award and Di Qui Cun Salon stylist De Ling Wu from China for the Colour category. The ceremony took place at the end of an intense three-day event and action-packed evening conducted by Patrick Cameron at Pier 94, the historic Fashion Week location. ITVA 2011 also saw the stage debut of new Global President of P&G Salon Professional, Adil Mehboob-Khan, who introduced the Trend Vision Award, “Once again this year top stylists and talented youngsters have proven that this industry is full of passion, creativity and potential”. Second and third place winners
also deserve a special mention. For Young Talent, silver went to Friseure aus Leidenschaft stylist Nadine Pfeiffer (Germany) whilst bronze was reserved to Bang By Ara stylist Mikko-Matias Rasanen (Finland). In the Colour category, the silver medal was awarded to Ayo Salon stylist Alina Iulia Calin (Romania) and bronze to HC Hair Culture stylist Chia-Wie Hung (Taiwan). Another treat was the Trend Vision Wella Professionals 2012 trends presentation by Souleiman and Wood. These interpret the moods Grace (elegance and natural brilliant beauty), Blaze (femme fatale style), Celeste (free spirit) and Roxy (updated Seventies revival). Finally, the creation of the new SP Men line was announced and it was revealed that a revolutionary new colour is on the way – but its launch date and details are still top secret! videooniPad From top left: the two 2011 winners; president Adil MehboobKhan with Sylvie Moreau (general manager of global franchise leader P&G Salon Professional) and the Colour Award jury.
E V E N T S
Left: the Roxy and Grace trends. Right: a moment from the Celeste trend show. Below: two photos of the Blaze and Celeste trends.
Wella Professionals conquers New York. Offering four new looks for the 2012 woman
Different shots of the event with writers, trends and shows.
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 21
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Magic
Color Zoom!
Fashion-hotspot Miami: 2,600 top colourists gathered here for the Goldwell Color Zoom Global Event. Both for the competition and a preview of FasciNature.
by Petra Weinzierl
E V E N T S
F
photooniPad
Nature is the quintessence of beauty, perfection, and a variety of colours and shapes
ocus on colour! The moon was rainbow-tinted over Miami Beach – first dipping into an orange-hued sea, amidst the red and green lights of the yachts which bobbed around like an ocean-going disco. This was the spectacular setting for the International Goldwell Color Zoom Global Event 2011. Around 2,600 colourists and beauty experts from 40 different countries reunited at the fashion mecca on the Florida coast to see the international finals and the exclusive preview of the wonderful Color Zoom 2012 Goldwell collection. South Beach, as everyone knows, bubbles over with life, sex appeal, design and fashion. This year’s winners of the competition (entitled “Play Strong”) were announced after an exciting finish involving 80 finalists: Lisa Whiteman (UK) for the Partner Category, Ben Lin (Taiwan) for the Creative Category and Demi Leigh Gardiner (Australia) for the New Talent Category. The three winners confidently interpreted the trends with perfect colouring and creative techniques (two of Goldwell’s pivotal requisites). The winners will work alongside the Color Zoom Master Team to produce the Color
Zoom 13 collection and present it to the fashion world via trend meetings, photo shoots, fashion shows and events. There was also the presentation of the new Color Zoom 12 Collection. FasciNature was presented during a spectacular show with 70 models on the catwalk. FasciNature revolves around the basic idea that nature, thanks to its richness of colour and surreal variety of shapes, represents quintessential beauty and perfection. Mario Krankl, leader of the Color Zoom Master Team, presented wonderful avantgarde floral hair-do’s. Top colourist Agnes Westerman explained: “We found different shapes and colours in nature which inspired us to create a new technique, the ‘Butterfly Effect’. This collection shows how fashion and lifestyle discover biomimicry. Extraordinary and strong features of nature are re-interpreted, for innovative design and extrava gant styles. FasciNature represents a truly fascinating and multi-coloured collection. A sneak preview for 2012? Anthony Pucciarelli, Goldwell CEO, revealed: “The colour zoom will flash through the city of London!”
Magnificent floral hair creations: the new Color Zoom 12 collection, FasciNature.
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 23
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Subtle
Shading
Vibrant. Glossy. Effortless. All buzzwords that describe the minimalist approach to hair colour and styling that came down the spring 2012 runways.
F
ashion meets advanced chemistry with hair colour formulas that contain things like proteins, lipids, and oil infusions for deep conditioning during the colour process. While spring’s hair colour palette includes very bold shades – it’s a blended application of tone on tone variations that looks modern say the colour pros. Estetica talks about the shift in style.
Kelly Osbourne
Even short hair offers plenty of potential for natural contrasts, with Kelly Osbourne making waves with warmed-up gray.
Look of the real
Tilda Swinton
“Hyper real” is how Ian Michel Black, Aveda’s Global Colour Director, describes today’s current trend for “discrete warmth that mimics the way your uncoloured hair reacts to
by Kendall Farr
the sun”. For the right balance he uses Aveda’s new ammonia free and organic Full Spectrum Color with pure pigments in both primary and secondary colours. “Any colour that exists in nature is possible with this range,” he explains. The translucent shades of the past several seasons have been upstaged by highly saturated pigments according to the colour pros at Wella, who developed Colour Charm Liquifuse to infuse hair with colour molecules for vibrancy and conditioning. “For blondes, golden tones from rose to white to yellow give the hair a multi-dimensional quality and for brunettes, brown on brown tones like rich dark chocolate and frosty milk chocolate create soft-looking variation,” says Alexandra Matiz, Wella Professionals Top Artist.
Blended colour
Michelle Williams
Celebrity photos: Getty Images
“How do you want to be described when you walk into a room. As a memorable blonde, redhead or brunette?” asks Jason Backe L’Oréal Colour Ambassador. Whether blonde on blonde, dark blonde on brunette or a blending of red on red, Backe’s technique includes painting fine ribbons of colour with Inoa’s Dia Light and DiaRichesse formulas for
T R E N D S
Paul Mitchell
linkoniPad
L'OrĂŠal Professionnel
TIGI
New technologies are making possible what was once impossible
Pick your combo: red on red, blonde on blonde, or auburn on brown. Subtlety is the keyword.
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 25
Scruples Redken
Hair: Chrystofer Benson, MATRIX Artistic Director - Photo: Jake Garn - Make-up: Paula Dahlberg - Styling: Rachael Domingo
Adding texture to colour makes all the difference.
Goldwell
Today good grooming means more than a cut and shave. Relax and pamper yourself
26| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
New ways to cover grey
Spring’s naturalistic colour movement includes a new approach to covering grey as well. “As we age, we start to lose skin tone so the use of reflective yellow tones and soft gold tones work wonders for brightening the complexion,”
Maintenance
And thanks to the latest science, preserving your shade between salon visits is now easier than ever with shampoos, conditioners and glosses that maintain colour post service. “Take home is the best defense against colour fade,” says Lucie Doughty who recommends Paul Mitchell Awapuhi Wild Ginger KeraTriplex Treatment. Aveda’s Deposit Only Colour Treatment replaces dulled tone and enhances lost shine with natural ingredients combined with essential oils. Rusk’s Deepshine line includes a colour home maintenance kit containing sulfate free shampoo, conditioner and a nourishing masque. So for now, bright hair paint and colours processed to the texture of straw are best left to women who work the red carpet at music award shows. Spring’s newest formulas will keep people guessing if it is naturally yours.
Celebrity photos: Getty Images
The current-looking update is simply a matter of timing according to Richy Kandasamy, TIGI’s Creative Director for Colour. He uses TIGI's new copyright©olour, a range of intermixable shades that can be used alone or matched and layered. “It makes it easy to process a single colour at different time intervals to create the subtle variations that avoid a dense, one colour effect, says Kandasamy. “A modern-looking hair cut combined with a current – looking colour is the way to get single process colour to look its best, says Lucie Doughty, Editorial Director for Paul Mitchell.
Take your colour cues from redcarpet divas Madonna
Single colour
says Aveda’s Ian Michael Black. “Blending grey by using a translucent and demi-permanent colour creates a finish with depth,” says Lucie Doughty, who uses Paul Mitchell PM Shines to achieve the look. Joico’s Age Defy offers blended coverage with deep conditioning. Wella’s Liquifuse has five shade families that blend and cover the most pigment resistant grey hair, while Goldwell’s Colorance line has technology that deposits replenishing lipids into the hair core while it colours.
Jessica Chastain
high-impact and high gloss. Beth Minardi, a Joico Colour spokesperson uses Vero K-PaK to create highlights with an impressionistic feel. Rusk Educator Jennifer Bailey says that creating less space between colour levels is key. She uses Rusk Deepshine for “highlights that look subtle and retain an organic appearance as opposed to painting that looks obvious and outdated,” she adds. So what about the ombre-wearer? “The newest take on ombre should have the subtlety of your childhood hair after a vacation in the sun,” says Patrick McIvor, Creative Director for Matrix.
Busy Phillips
T R E N D S
Banging! Nails
The latest trends in nails are getting more and more explosive, with eye-poppin’ colours and hi-tech formulas to complement even the wildest looks, from the street to the runway.
28| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
by Marie Scarano
N A I L S
N
ever before has the backstage symbiosis at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week been so strong. A manicure or pedicure is no longer merely a question of good grooming, but is an absolutely essential accessory to your total look. So stylists now line up teams of beauty experts to ensure that their “canvas” has every detail in place to further enhance their creations. The “Electropop” collection by China Glaze® brings back fluorescent psychedelic chic. Minx created bold geometric designs and special effects for any palette or shape, evoking a wide range of concepts, from black&white op-art stripes, to space-age holograms and rippleeffect metals. Metals are also the leit-motiv with six brand new CND Shellac Power Polish shades to be released as of March 2012 that may almost seem neutral, but are inspired by a theme of urban decadence, with hues like Rubble, Cityscape, and Silver VIP Status. Zoya took a softer but sparkling approach with
Forego fluos but opt for ZOYA’s sparkling confections.
Minx often steals the show with wild special effects.
their glitter polish in all the very same Candyland colours we saw on catwalks. Nail art is rampant, with OPI allowing your imagination to run wild with an amazing 70s-vintage pop palette. OPI is also hinting at Fall-Winter previews, with Jason Wu opting for OPI’s “Got the Blues for Red” to enhance delicate beading, embroidery and jeweltoned colours on luxurious sweaters, pointy-collared blouses, and tailored outerwear.
Backstage and runway photo by Becky Maynes for Minx
Metallic hues are the new taupe for classic looks or iron maids
When going bold, fluorescent is a great option! Photo Courtesy of China Glaze
For OPI, “A Roll in the Hague” flatters a wide range of skin tones.
速
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B E A u T y
Romantic
Affair
Dolce & Gabbana
Catrice
Dolce & Gabbana
Catrice
Blugirl
Women’secret
Blush Horizon De Chanel from the Chanel Spring 2012 collection. Benetint rose-tinted stain from Benefit. Hannon Lip Plumping Berry Lipgloss in Deep Edge. Essie Fall 2012 Collection; Carry On. Create the perfect pout with Caprice Ultimate Shine lipstick in Ketch-me-up and Precision Lip Liner in The Roof Is On Fire. Dolce & Gabbana 2011 Lace Collection. Sensual lingerie from Women’secret Maxi Push Up collection.
essie
Benefit
Hannon
Chanel
Romanticise your nails, sweep on a coral blush and a kiss of red. Vamp up your look with Dolce & Gabbana lace sunglasses and keep a little secret surprise for later with gorgeously decadent lingerie.
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 31
Aromas: a range dedicated to the well-being of colour-treated hair. Aromas Shampoo with Argan Oil d-stress . strengthen . protect Nurture hair and scalp in a rich, luxurious lather of natural botanicals designed to restore moisture, revitalise and preserve colour, protecting against fade. Aromas Conditioner with Argan Oil d-stress . strengthen . protect Aromas Conditioner deeply penetrates the hair cuticle with hydrating natural botanicals that reconstruct hair and assist in repairing chemical damage, to revitalise and preserve colour against fade. Aromas Ends Therapy with Argan Oil nourish . replenish . protect A rich leave-in moisturiser designed to nourish from deep within, replenishing lost moisture whilst protecting against daily damage. Aromas Hydra Therapy with Argan Oil hydrate . soften . preserve colour Hydra Therapy Intensive Treatment will replenish lost moisture whilst hydrating hair, improving softness and manageability, boosting vibrancy and preserving colour from fade. Aroma Oil with Argan Oil shine . protect . smooth A leave-in treatment that adds shine and vibrancy while providing thermal and colour protection. Restores dry damaged hair, controlling frizz and improving overall condition and manageability. Aroma Oil Spray with Argan Oil shine . protect . smooth A leave-in shine spray treatment formulated with Argan Oil, providing instant vibrancy and radiance to dull hair. Detangle, improve condition and protect the hair from environmental factors, heat styling and harsh UV rays.
Now available in South Africa and exclusive to selected Salons For stockist enquiries, samples and more information contact us Email: info@keylogo.co.za • Enquiries: +27 (0)11 849 9910
www.nak.net.au www.facebook.com/nakhair
B E A U T Y
Sensual
Indulgence
Skin Science
Hannon Mama Mio
Dermalogica
Moor
Ensure radiant skin with the Meadowsweet nourishing vitamin E body salt scrub. Bathing becomes an exceptional pleasure with Chanel N°5 Intense Bath Oil. Hannon Moisture Seal facial spray will set and seal your make-up. Repair, prevent and delay the skin from ageing with the Skin Science Exfoliating Enzyme. Mama Mio’s Boot Camp For Tummies Kit contains the Skin Tight Toning Serum and Get Waisted Body Shaper. Dermalogica Overnight Repair Serum is infused with botanical oils. The Revitalizing Toner from Moor refreshes and rebalances the skin. Lancôme Vissionnaire skin corrector.
Chanel
Meadowsweet
Lancôme
Spoil yourself this season with these indulgent beauty products. Allow your skin to soak up the luxury and ease your body into relaxation and upliftment.
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beauty d.indd 1
2012/03/29 10:55 AM
Real lives. . e l p o e p l a e R YouR stYle. 011 312 5070 JHB • 012 551 3010 CT •
031 566 5765 DBN
6 5765 DBN. 1 3010 CT or • 031 56 55 2 01 • B JH 70 50 011 312 Untitled-1 1
2012/04/03 11:20 AM
B E A u t y
Spruced
Up
Inglot
Chanel
Men welcome the pampering and gladly indulge in a bit of R&R, some more than others. Male grooming is fast becoming a daily occurrence or an eagerly anticipated treat.
Ren
Neal’s Yard Neal’s Yard
Inglot
Moor
Burberry
Ren
Inglot
Keep your nails in tip top shape with clippers, scissors and nail enamel from Inglot. Get a silky smooth shave with the REN Multi-tasking After Shave Balm and the Tamanu High Glide Shaving Oil. Neal’s Yard Revitalising Face Scrub and Rejuvenating Moisturiser. The new Burberry Touch for Men fragrance contains notes of violet, oakmoss and tonka bean.
E S T E T I C A S O UT H A F R I C A | 3 5
V I S I O N
Elitist
Freedom
Sensational glamour: so elegant, so beautiful, and so alluring. These hair-do’s have a dazzling grandezza and a magnificent radiance. Aesthetically perfect. 36| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
Hair-do’s as creative masterpieces with ribbons of white satin.
Intercoiffure Mondial
Tender, innocent and yet infinitely enticing: a gentle movement of the hair and elaborate
Freedom collection Hollywood waves turn a woman into a star.
V I S I O N
It’s all about fragile beauty and nostalgia. The chignons are ornate draperies for an evening out. Black and white combinations make for expressive evening styles. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 39
V I S I O N
Intricate braids worn as headbands. The vision behind it all: clearly luxury. Elitist Freedom isn’t excessive but sophisticated: like a radiant, brilliant Hollywood icon.
4 0| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
Timeless elegance Hair: Intercoiffure Mondial Artistic Team 2012 Photographer: Jean Pierre Kruze and Juliano Blotta Make-up: Jacqueline Gelsi, Miguel Estelrich and Monique Casado
ASIA
FASHION Catwalk Trends Accessories Galore HAIRSTYLES The Latest Coifs for this Season PROFESSIONAL All the Updates of the Industry
w w w . e s t e t i c a m a g a z i n e . c o m /w w w.es tetica-asia .c o m
Turin Milan Amsterdam Athens Barcelona Bucharest Cape Town Dubai Frankfurt Istanbul Jakarta Lisbon London México City Moscow New Delhi New York Paris São Paulo Seoul Shanghai Sofia Sydney
Everywhere i n the world It’s always Estetica time!
Warsaw Turin Milan Amsterdam Athens Barcelona Bucharest Cape Town Dubai Frankfurt Istanbul Jakarta Lisbon London México City Moscow New Delhi New York Paris São Paulo Seoul Shanghai Sofia
Sydney Warsaw Turin Milan Amsterdam Athens Barcelona Bucharest Cape Town Dubai Frankfurt Istanbul Jakarta Lisbon London México City Moscow New Delhi New York Paris São Paulo Seoul Shanghai N° 16/11 EDITION
16
THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE
CATWALK Fashion Power FEATURE Season for care RoUnd TAbLE Summer trends
1 6 TH E D I T I O N 2011
R58.95 16/11
www.estetica.co.za
MODA
INT’L
Branded collections
Very Important Pages. The latest hair fashions from top Italian and international companies for this AUTUMN/WINTER. All ready to be flicked through, read and digested. For trend-setting, interpreting and adaptation to your own mood. Good vibes.
Pages Très Importantes. La coiffure en vogue signée par des agences italiennes et internationales de la Top Coiffure pour cet automnehiver. Toutes à parcourir, lire et assimiler. Pour s’approprier les tendances, les interpréter, les adapter à votre humeur. Good vibes. Very Important Pages. L’hairstyling en vogue firmado por las empresas italianas e internacionales de la top coiffure para este otoño-inverno. Todas para lucir, leer o asimiliar. Para hacer propios los trend, interpretarlos, adaptarlos al propio mood. Good vibes.
Very Important Pages. L’hairstyling en vogue firmato dalle aziende italiane ed internazionali della top coiffure per questo autunno-inverno. Tutte da sfogliare, leggere e assimilare. Per far propri i trend, interpretarli, adattarli al proprio mood. Good vibes. Very Important Pages. Hairstyling en vogue der italienischen und internationalen Top Coiffure für diesen Herbst/ Winter. Ansehen, aufsaugen, anwenden. Eigene Trends daraus ableiten, interpretieren, an die persönliche Stimmung anpassen. Good Vibes.
La meglio gioventù, pronta a premere sull’acceleratore, puntando tutto sul futuro. The 70’s, collezione che Alfaparf Milano ha creato in collaborazione con l’Istituto Europeo di Design nell’elaborazione del concept, parla al presente strizzando l’occhio al secolo passato. I ciuffi sono alti e gonfi, le onde alternate a morbide vaporosità. Past is back. Die Jugend von damals drückt aufs Gas und setzt auf die Zukunft. The 70’s – eine Kollektion, die Alfaparf Milano zusammen mit dem Europäischen Institut für Design konzipiert hat – gibt sich zeitgemäß und ironisiert die Vergangenheit. Hohe, voluminöse Strähnen und Wellen, die sich mit weicher Duftigkeit abwechseln. Past is back.
Young American The best of the new generation, ready to step on the accelerator, looking to the future. This 70s collection (created by Alfaparf Milano in collaboration with the European Design Institute) is totally up-to-date with a nod to the past. Quiffs are high and teased, waves alternating with soft fluffiness. The past is back. Hair: AoD – Architects of Design for Alfaparf Milano
Le meilleur de la jeunesse, prêt à appuyer sur le champignon, misant tout sur l’avenir. The 70’s, collection créée par Alfaparf Milano et pour laquelle l’Institut Européen de Design a participé à élaborer le concept, parle au présent en faisant un clin d’œil au siècle passé. Les mèches sont hautes et gonflées, les ondulations couvrent un crêpé duveteux. Past is back.
La mejor juventud, lista para pisar el acelerador, apostando todo al futuro. The 70’s, colección que Alfaparf Milano ha creado en colaboración con el Instituto Europeo de Diseño en la elaboración del concept, habla al presente haciendo un guiño al siglo pasado. Los mechones son altos e hinchados, las ondas alternadas a suaves ligerezas. Past is back.
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Hair: AoD – Architects of Design for Alfaparf Milano Photo: Diego Diaz Products: Alfaparf Milano
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Vintage project Flashbacks, sneak previews, and flashes of déjà vu. “Jewels of the Earth”, the Aveda haircollection, plays with time and reinterprets shapes and colours of the Seventies in a contemporary key. Rock meets glamour, classic elegance embraces strong colours. With make-up, it’s all about the eyes – magnetic, vibrant, almost artistic. Hair: Antoinette Beenders for Aveda Flashback, anticipazioni e brevi déjà vu. Jewels of the earth, la collezione modacapelli firmata Aveda gioca con il tempo, reinterpretando in chiave moderna forme e colori degli anni Settanta. Il rock che incontra il glamour, l’eleganza classica che sposa i colori strong. E per il make-up, focus occhi: magnetici, vibranti, quasi artistici.
Flashbacks, Vorahnungen und kurze Déjà-vues: Juwels of the earth, die neue Kollektion von Aveda, spielt mit der Zeit und interpretiert Formen und Farben der Siebziger auf moderne Art. Rock trifft Glamour, klassische Eleganz küsst starke Farben. Das Make-up konzentriert sich auf die Augen – magnetisch, fast wie Kunst. Flashback, visions futuristes et déjà vu. Jewels of the earth, la collection coiffure signée Aveda joue avec le temps, en ré-interprétant de façon moderne les formes et couleurs des seventies. Le rock rencontre le glamour, l’élégance classique s’allie aux couleurs vives. Pour le maquillage, gros plan sur les yeux : magnétiques, vibrants, presque artistiques. Flashback, anticipaciones y breves déjà vu. Jewels of the earth, la colección modacabello firmada Aveda juega con el tiempo, reinterpretando en llave moderna formas y colores de los años Setenta. El rock que encuentra el glamour, la elegancia clásica que se casa los colores strong. Y para el make-up, focus ojos: magnéticos, vibrantes, casi artísticos.
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Hair: Antoinette Beenders and Aveda North American Artistic Team Photo: Jenny Hands Make-up: Janell Geason Products: Aveda E S T E T I C A M O D A | 51
Nature’s palette Inspiration arrives from nature. From its colours and shapes, which continue to amaze us each and every time. FasciNature is a hairfashion collection from the International Color Zoom 2012 team for Goldwell, a tribute to the joy of life made through energy, decisive brushstrokes and vivid colours. Infecting us with its energy... Hair: Goldwell Color Zoom Creative Team L’ispirazione arriva dalla natura. Dai suoi colori e dalle sue forme, che continuano a sorprenderci ogni volta come la prima volta. FasciNature è la modacapelli secondo l’International Color Zoom 2012 team per Goldwell, un omaggio alla gioia di vivere attraverso la vivacità, le pennellate decise, le nuance fluo. Per lasciarsi contagiare dalla sua energia...
Inspiration, die aus der Natur kommt. Deren Farben und Formen uns immer wieder aufs Neue überraschen. FasciNature ist Hairfashion, wie sie das International Color Zoom Team Goldwell 2012 sieht – eine Huldigung an die Lebensfreude durch Lebendigkeit, klare Pinselstriche, fluoreszierende Nuancen. Eine Energie, die ansteckt... L’inspiration vient de la nature. De par ses couleurs et ses formes qui nous surprennent chaque fois autant que la première fois. FasciNature est la haute coiffure selon l’International Color Zoom 2012 team pour Goldwell, un hommage à la joie de vivre à travers la vivacité, les coups de pinceau marqués, les nuances fluos. Pour se laisser contaminer par son énergie... La inspiración llega de la naturaleza. De sus colores y de sus formas, que siguen sorprendiéndonos cada vez como la primera vez. FasciNature es la modacabello según el internacional Color Zoom 2012 team para Goldwell, un homenaje a la alegría de vivir a través de la viveza, las pinceladas decididas, las nuance fluo. Para dejarse contagiar por su energía...
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Hair: Goldwell Color Zoom Creative Team Photo: Stephan Ziehen Make-up: Loni Bauer Styling: Xenia Bous Products: Goldwell
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È lei l’attrice principale. Nella collezione The Italian Touch # 10 Scénographie, firmata Kemon, la donna è consapevole interprete di tutte le scene della sua vita. Di giorno, dinamica e attiva con colori pieni e stile grintoso. Di sera, si veste di glamour con onde morbide e riflessi dorati. E quando cala la notte, l’eleganza è il solo must da rispettare... Hauptdarstellerin ist sie – die Frau. In der Kollektion The Italian Touch # 10 Scénographie von Kemon ist sie selbstbewusste Interpretin aller Szenen ihres Lebens. Tagsüber dynamisch und aktiv, mit vollen Farben und souveränem Stil. Abends dann Glamour mit weichen Wellen und goldenen Reflexen. Und Nachts gibt nur die Eleganz die Grenzen vor... Elle est l’actrice principale. Dans la collection The Italian Touch # 10 Scénographie signée Kemon, la femme est actrice volontaire de toutes les scènes de sa vie. Le jour, dynamique et active, aux couleurs pleines et au style battant. Le soir, glamour aux vagues douces et reflets dorés. Et quand la nuit tombe, l’élégance est le seul must à respecter...
Guest star She is the starring actress. In The Italian Touch # 10 Scénographie collection from Kemon, the woman is the conscious star in all her own scenes in life. By day, dynamic and go-getting with full colours and a gutsy style. By evening, in a glamour version with soft waves and golden highlights. as night falls, elegance is the only rule to be respected at all costs... Hair: A. Labriola, L. Martini, P. Baltieri, P. Kersic, R. Rosini for Kemon Es ella la actriz principal. En la colección The Italian Touch # 10 Scénographie, firmada Kemon, la mujer es consciente intérprete todas las escenas de la vida. De dia, dinámica y activa con colores llenos y estilos atrevidos. De noche, se viste de glamour con ondas suaves y reflejos dorados. Y cuando cae la noche, la elegancia es el solo must que respetar...
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Hair: A. Labriola, L. Martini, P. Baltieri, P. Kersic, R. Rosini for Kemon Photo: Amedeo M. Turello Products: Kemon E S T E T I C A M O D A | 59
Primitive Beauty Wild freedom, primordial sensuality, enchanting and tempting instinctiveness. A guileless charm, because it’s innocent. Maybe. Because every detail, every jewel, every single hair – tied up or neatly lying in perfect smoothness, soft and silky or solemnly shaped – is the result of millenniums of carefully-studied seduction techniques. Hair and products: L’Oréal Professionnel Libertà selvaggia, sensualità primordiale, istintività che incanta e trascina. Fascinazione incolpevole perché innocente. O forse no. Perché ogni dettaglio, ogni monile, ogni singolo capello - avvolto su stesso o chiamato a comporsi in un liscio perfetto, morbido e carezzevole o ieraticamente disegnato - sono il frutto di millenni di studiata seduzione. Wilde Freiheit, angeborene Sinnlichkeit, Instinkte, die verzaubern und mitreißen. Die Faszination der Unschuld. Oder doch nicht? Denn jedes Detail, jede Verzierung, jedes einzelne Haar – ob eingedreht, in eine weiche, streichelglatte Mähne gekämmt oder feierlich in Form gelegt – ist das Ergebnis von Jahrtausenden eingeübter Verführung.
Liberté sauvage, sensualité primaire, instinct qui enchante et attire. Fascination irréprochable puisqu’innocente... ou peut-être pas. Car chaque détail, chaque bijou, chaque cheveu - enroulé sur lui-même ou appelé à produire un lissé parfait, doux et caressant ou solennellement dessiné - est le résultat de millénaires de séduction étudiée. Libertad salvaje, sensualidad primordial, instinto que hechiza y arrastra. Encanto inculpable porque inocente. O quizás no. Porque cada detalle, cada colgante, cada único cabello - ondulado en sí mismo o llamado a componerse en un liso perfecto, suave y delicado o hieráticamente dibujado – es el fruto de milenios de estudiada seducción.
Left Hair: Valentin Mordacq for L’Oréal Professionnel Photo: Dusan Reljin Make-up: Lloyd Simmonds Right Hair: Paulo Freitas for L’Oréal Professionnel Photo: André Rau Make-up: Topolino E S T E T I C A M O D A | 61
Hair: Alan Lorem Ipsum Hair: Hao Hai for Photo: Aoioi ioioioi oioioioi L’Oréal Professionnel Make-up: ioioiooioi Photo: YvesOIoi J. Hayat Styling: Eieiei Make-up: Luc ieieieieei Drouen
Top row left to right Hair: Oscar Guinea for L’Oréal Professionnel Photo: Peter Knapp/Make-up: Kakie Hair: Raffel Pages for L’Oréal Professionnel Photo: Véronique Vial/Make-up: Violette Hair: Sally and Jamie Brooks @ Brooks & Brooks for L’Oréal Professionnel/Photo: Kate Barry Make-up: Aline Schmitt Middle row left to right Hair: Song Joo for L’Oréal Professionnel Photo: Gilles Marie Zimmermann/Make-up: Luc Drouen Hair: Song Joo for L’Oréal Professionnel Photo: Gilles Marie Zimmermann/Make-up: Luc Drouen Hair: Vinn Wong for L’Oréal Professionnel Photo: Gilles Marie Zimmermann/Make-up: Luc Drouen Bottom row left to right Hair: Vinn Wong for L’Oréal Professionnel Photo: Gilles Marie Zimmermann/Make-up: Luc Drouen Hair: Fabrizio Sciangula for L’Oréal Professionnel Photo: Alan Gelati/Make-up: Andrea Costa E S T E T I C A M O D A | 63
Above – Hair: Paul Hession and Niamh Gilmartin @ Hession Hairdressing for L’Oréal Professionnel/Photo: Laurent Seroussi/Make-up: Kakie Below left to right – Hair: Fabrizio Sciangula for L’Oréal Professionnel/Photo: Alan Gelati/Make-up: Andrea Costa Hair: Siv June Skandsen @ Modern Design for L’Oréal Professionnel/Photo: Yves J. Hayat/Make-up: Kakie Hair: Manfred Kraft for L’Oréal Professionnel/Photo: Studio Harcourt/Make-up: Kakie
Hair: Jacques Thill for L’OrÊal Professionnel Photo: David Bellemere Make-up: Tatsu Yamanaka E S T E T I C A M O D A | 65
Forza, movimento, dinamismo. In The Dynamic Issue, la collezione La Biosthetique Paris, diventano sinonimo di eleganza, carattere. Bandita la staticità, il taglio diventa spinta energica e propulsiva. Complice lo styling, che muove ogni proposta rendendola easy to wear e trasformista. Colore a viva voce: le mezze misure sono out. Power, Bewegung, Dynamik – in The Dynamic Issue, der Kollektion von La Biosthetique Paris, stehen sie für Eleganz und Charakter. Stillstand ist verboten; der Schnitt ist reine Energie. Unterstützt vom Styling, das die Looks leicht zu tragen und veränderbar macht. Farben kommen ganz direkt rüber – Halbheiten sind passé.
Pure energy
Force, mouvement, dynamisme. Dans The Dynamic Issue, la collection La Biosthetique Paris, deviennent synonyme d’élégance, de caractère. Bannie la statique, la coupe devient force énergique et propulsive. Style complice, qui rend toute proposition easy to wear et transformiste. Couleurs éclatantes : pas de demimesures.
Power, movement, dynamism. In The Dynamic Issue, from La Biosthetique Paris, become synonymous with elegance and character. Monotony is outlawed, haircuts become energy-driven and propulsive. Styling plays its part, influencing every idea and ensuring that it’s easy-to-wear and suited to quick change. Colours shout from the rooftops – no half measures here. Hair: La Biosthetique Artistic Team Fuerza, movimiento, dinamismo. In The Dynamic Issue, la colección La Biosthetique Paris, son sinónimo de elegancia, carácter. Bandida la estaticidad, el corte se vuelve empuje enérgico y propulsivo. Cómplice el styling, que mueve cada propuesta convirtiendola easy to wear y transformista. Color a viva voz: las medias medidas son out.
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Hair: La Biosthetique Artistic Team Photo: Straulino Products: La Biosthetique Paris
BEAUTE adlorem Reratem volum vercipiscil ut nit prat. Acin eui tat augiatet nosto elis nonsequat lorpero ese essenim dipismo lobortie molummy nim acilisisl ulputat. Giam alisi. Ute del ullaorer adigna feugait vulput adio dio enim aciduisi. Lor sent lorem nulput prat, quatumsandre minim dio consectem et vulpute essi. Hair: Lorem Ipsum
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Versatilità modello express. The Alignment by label.m chiama in causa la sartorialità. Tagli, forme e colori su misura, cuciti addosso come una seconda pelle. L’hairstyling diventa così espressione estrema di personalità e carisma, l’individualità entra nel DNA della coiffure. Il plus? L’allineamento con moda, musica, arte e street culture. Vielseitigkeit auf die schnelle Art. The Alignment by label.m beruft sich auf die Schneiderzunft. Schnitte, Formen und Farben – maßgeschneidert wie eine zweite Haut. So wird Hairstyling extremer Ausdruck des Charakters und Individualität zur DNA der Coiffure. Das Plus? Die Nähe zu Mode, Musik und Street Culture.
A tailor’s story
Express versatility. The Alignment by Label.m turns to tailoring. Bespoke cuts, shapes and colours, fitting like a second skin. Hairstyling becomes an expression of personality and charisma, individualism enters the DNA of hairdressing. The advantage? A matching-up of fashion, music, art and street culture. Hair: Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck & the Toni&Guy International Artistic Team – label.m Expression polyvalente du modèle. The Alignment by label.m en appelle à la haute couture. Coupures, formes et couleurs sur mesure, cousues comme une seconde peau. La coiffure devient une expression extrême de la personnalité et du charisme, l’individualité entre dans l’ADN de la coiffure. Le plus ? L’alignement avec la mode, la musique, l’art et la culture de la rue. Versatilidad modelo express. The Alignment by label.m llama en causa la sastreria. Cortes, formas y colores a medida, cosidos como una segunda piel. El hairstyling se vuelve así expresión de extrema personalidad y carisma, la individualidad entra en el ADN de la coiffure. ¿Lo más? El alineamiento con moda, música, arte y street culture.
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Hair: Sacha MascoloTarbuck & the Toni&Guy International Artistic Team Products: label.m E S T E T I C A M O D A | 73
Tutto è il contrario di tutto. Il sopra e il sotto, il corto e il lungo, l’ordine e il caos. The Collection di Paul Mitchell è l’antitesi di se stessa. Dimostrazione artistica della versatilità in essenza. Allo styling il compito di farsi traduttore del linguaggio di Angus Mitchell e Julian Perlingiero. Libero e scomposto in un caso, rigoroso e formale nell’altro. Alles ist das Gegenteil von allem. Oben und unten, kurz und lang, Ordnung und Chaos. The Collection von Paul Mitchell ist ihre eigene Antithese, der künstlerische Beweis von Wandelbarkeit schlechthin. Das Styling fungiert als Interpret der Formensprache von Angus Mitchell und Julian Perlingiero. Leicht und locker hier, streng und formell dort. Tout et son contraire. Le haut et le bas, le court et le long, l’ordre et le chaos. The Collection de Paul Mitchell est sa propre antithèse. Démonstration artistique de la polyvalence par essence. Au styling de traduire les propos d’Angus Mitchell et Julian Perlingiero. Libres et décomposés par moments, stricts et formels dans d’autres.
Opposites attract Opposites reign supreme. Above and below, long and short, order and chaos. The Paul Mitchell Collection is its own antithesis, an artistic demonstration of essential versatility. Styling is entrusted with the translation of hair codes by Angus Mitchell and Julian Perlingiero. Free and tousled in one case, meticulously formal in the other. Hair: Angus Mitchell and Julian Perlingiero for Paul Mitchell Todo y el contrario de todo. Arriba y abajo, lo corto y lo largo, el orden y el caos. The Collection de Paul Mitchell es la antítesis de si misma. Demostración artística de la versatilidad en esencia. Al styling la tarea de hacerse traductor del lenguaje de Angus Mitchell y Julian Perlingiero. Libre y descompuesto en un caso, riguroso y formal en el otro.
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Hair: Angus Mitchell and Julian Perlingiero for Paul Mitchell Photo: Hama Sanders Products: Paul Mitchell E S T E T I C A M O D A | 77
Mannequin metropolitane, con i capelli raccolti in un’austera coda o in un androgino chignon che strizza l’occhio al passato. I colori sono tanto cupi quanto glamour, il make-up punta tutto sullo sguardo. Accendete i riflettori e puntate gli occhi sulla passerella: a sfilare è la nuova collezione Redken. Metropolen-Mannequins mit strengen Pferdeschwänzen oder androgynen Knoten mit ironischen Anspielungen an die Vergangenheit. Düstere, doch glamouröse Farben und ein Make-up, das den Blick in Szene setzt. Spot on – über den Runway läuft die neue RedkenKollektion.
Shining Red Carpet Metropolitan mannequins, with hair tied up in sombre ponytails, or in an androgynous chignon that recalls the past. The colours are as dark as they are glamorous. Make-up concentrates on the eyes. Switch on the spotlights, all eyes on the catwalk – the new Redken collection is strutting its stuff. Hair: Guido Palau for Redken Mannequin métropolitaines aux cheveux ramassés en une queue austère ou en un chignon androgyne, clin d’œil au passé. Des couleurs aussi sombres que glamour, un maquillage qui met l’accent sur le regard. Allumez les projecteurs et regardez vers le podium : la nouvelle collection Redken défile. Mannequin metropolitanas, con cabello recogido en una austera cola o en un andrógino moño que guiña el ojo al pasado. Los colores son tan oscuros como glamour, el make-up apuesta todo a la mirada. Encender los reflectores y dirigir la mirada a la pasarela: desfila la nueva colección Redken.
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Hair: Guido Palau for Redken Products: Redken
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Dive forti, moderne e cosmopolite che reinterpretano in chiave contemporanea gli Anni Cinquanta. Sono le protagoniste di New Hollywood, collezione autunno/inverno 2011 firmata Revlon Professional. Lunghi o più corti, i tagli hanno nuance naturali e vedono come protagoniste onde sinuose, dalla fluente morbidezza. Starke, moderne und kosmopolitische Diven bringen die 50er Jahre auf ein modernes Niveau. Es sind die Stars von New Hollywood, der Herbst/ Winter Kollektion 2011 von Revlon Professional. Ob kurz oder länger, die Schnitte haben natürliche Nuancen und stellen üppige, weich fließende Wellen in den Vordergrund.
Absolutely Woman Forceful divas, modern and cosmopolitan, reliving the Fifties in an updated version. They are the stars of New Hollywood, the autumn/winter 2011 collection from Revlon Professional. Long or short, hair boasts natural colours and features sensual waves, softly flowing. Hair: Revlon Professional
Des divas fortes, modernes et cosmopolites dans une réinterprétation contemporaine des années cinquante. Elles sont les icônes de la New Hollywood, collection automne/hiver 2011 signée Revlon Professional. Longues ou plus courtes, les coupes sont naturelles et les courbes sinueuses occupent le premier rôle, celui de la douceur. Divas fuertes, modernas y cosmopolitas que reinterpretan en llave contemporánea los Años Cincuenta. Son las protagonistas de New Hollywood, colección otoño/invierno 2011 firmada Revlon Professional. Largos o más cortos, los cortes tienen nuance naturales y ven cómo protagonistas ondas sinuosas, de fluida suavidad.
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Hair: Revlon Professional Photo: Giampaolo Sgura Products: Revlon Professional E S T E T I C A M O D A | 85
Minimalista e senza compromessi. La collezione Future Classic firmata Schwarzkopf Professional guarda al domani, con linee essenziali e ultrachic. In un perfetto gioco di proporzioni, le forme e i colori rompono con il passato e guardano lontano, verso un mondo che non conosce confini. Minimalistisch und kompromisslos. Die Future Classic Kollektion von Schwarzkopf Professional blickt mit essentiellen, ultraschicken Linien in die Zukunft. Formen und Farben brechen in perfekten Proportionen mit Gestern und zeigen in die Ferne, in eine Welt ohne Grenzen. Minimaliste et sans compromis. La collection Future Classic signée Schwarzkopf Professional se tourne vers l’avenir avec des lignes épurées et ultrachic. Dans un parfait jeu de proportions, les formes et les couleurs rompent avec le passé et regardent au loin vers un monde qui ne connaît pas de limites.
Breaking TRADITION Minimalist and uncompromising. The Future Classic collection by Schwarzkopf Professional looks to the future, with essential and ultra-chic ideas. In a perfect game of proportions, shapes and colours break away from the past and start to look further afield, far away to a world without borders. Hair: Essential Looks for Schwarzkopf Professional Minimalista y sin compromisos. La colección Future Classic firmada Schwarzkopf Professional mira al mañana, con líneas esenciales y ultra-chic. En un perfecto juego de proporciones, las formas y colores rompen con el pasado y miran lejos, hacia un mundo que no conoce límites.
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Hair: Essential Looks for Schwarzkopf Professional Creative direction: Steve Hogan Photo: Peter Gehrke Make-up: Gudrun M端ller Styling: Lucy Manning Products: Schwarzkopf Professional
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Stars of Inspiration
Blaze, the femme fatale. Grace, the modern muse. Roxy, the overall star, And finally, Celeste, the visionary inspiration. These are the four stars that Wella Professionals presented at the International Trend Vision Award in New York City. Four forecasts for hairdressing elegance in 2012 with one single objective, perfection. Hair: Eugene Souleiman and Josh Wood for Wella Professionals
Blaze, la femme fatale. Grace, la musa moderna. Roxy, l’assoluta protagonista. E infine Celeste, l’estro visionario. Sono le quattro dive Wella Professionals presentate all’International Trend Vision Award di New York City. Quattro (pre) visioni per l’eleganza coiffure 2012, con un unico obiettivo: la perfezione.
Blaze ist Femme Fatale. Grace moderne Muse. Roxy absoluter Mittelpunkt und Celeste die Visionärin. Die vier Diven von Wella Professionals wurden beim International Trend Vision Award in New York City präsentiert. Vier Visionen der Coiffeureleganz 2012 und ein Ziel: die Perfektion.
Blaze, la femme fatale. Grace, la muse moderne. Roxy, l’héroïne absolue. Et enfin, Céleste, l’inspiration visionnaire. Telles sont les quatre divas Wella Professionals présentées à l’International Trend Vision Award de New York City. Quatre (pré-)visions pour la coiffure d’élégance 2012, avec un seul objectif : la perfection.
Blaze, la femme fatale. Grace, la musa moderna. Roxy, la absoluta protagonista. Y por fin Celeste, el genio visionario. Son las cuatro divas Wella Professionals las presentadas en el International Trend Vision Award de Nueva York City. Cuatro (pre)visiones de la elegancia coiffure 2012, con un único objetivo: la perfección. E S T E T I C A M O D A | 91
Hair: Eugene Souleiman and Josh Wood for Wella Professionals Products: Wella Professionals E S T E T I C A M O D A | 93
RP: At almost a year after becoming the head of P&G Salon Professional, what is your evaluation of the situation and your impression of the world of hairdressing?
AMK: I have been in this position since May, so for a little less than a year. I must say it’s been a very energising, tremendous start. During these months, I have spent a lot of time on the road and a lot of time with hairdressers and salon owners in the industry.
Passion for
beauty
The world of P&G Salon Professional has had a smiling, affable, and determined new face at its helm for the past 10 months: president Adil Mehboob-Khan, a successful Italian and expert in cosmetics brands. by Roberto Pissimiglia
It’s been an amazing experience. Firstly, I really have the sense of having graduated to the top end of beauty. I’ve been in beauty for 15 years now. I’ve worked for several retail beauty brands before. I have worked on many product innovation projects, but I feel now like I’ve graduated to the upper level because there’s nothing like it. Thousands of professionals are meeting millions of consumers every day for tailored beauty experiences. Salons play a unique role in people’s beauty regimen. Also, I am really overwhelmed by the aspect of relationships in this business, how enduring they are, how strong they are, how people in the industry relate to each other and I am very impressed by the power of Wella, this company that has always stood side-by-side with so many salon owners. They all have stories about when they started in the business and how Wella was beside them, and still is. A tremendous experience! I still haven’t travelled all of the world, but most of it. Rest assured that I will continue working on my job traveling, meeting salon owners, being in touch with what they need. RP: The phase following the acquisition by P&G (2003) was long and not always easy. How far along in the plan are you? Do you have other objectives to be reached?
AMK: I think what you’ve said is all true. The integration following an acquisition always takes a long time. We are now looking towards the future - and we are looking at growth. Our commitment to the salon industry actually started with the acquisition of Clairol
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in 2001, which was a major first step. Our focus over the past years was to look at which of the brands we have are the ones that are going to be capable of offering stylists the products and services they need, that help them delight their clients, and that have of course, potential to grow and become big, and global. One brand that joined the Salon Professional family most recently was Nioxin. We embarked upon this brand because we felt that, although we still have many brands that cover the middle and the top end segments of the market, we still needed a true specialist brand, like Nioxin, that meets key requirements of salon clients in the area of thinning hair. I think we now have a really great portfolio of iconic brands we’re going to focus on. RP: In 2003, the declared objective was to become N0. 1 worldwide by 2020 in the professional segment. Has this objective remained unchanged?
AMK: Yes, I can reconfirm this goal. We are already a leader in some countries and not in others. The reason why we care about Salon Professional is because we want to be successful in the beauty business, and salons play at the top end league of beauty. We want to be the beauty company that wins where consumers are and what they aspire to at the very top end. That‘s why we have a very successful and market leading Fragrance division with brands such as Boss or Gucci, in which we have been investing a lot in over the past decade. We are very committed to the salon business because we see it as the next one where we can attain global leadership. This is a market that continues to expand in more and more countries and emerging nations where things will rise very fast, in terms of better serving more salons and salons attracting more clients. So the number tied to that goal continues to grow and become more ambitious. We like that. Actually, one critical anchor for us is colour. That’s the heart of the industry. That’s where hairdressers bring a unique expertise to the beauty industry and that’s really one area where we want to succeed.
RP. You were previously the Vice President of Western European, Female Beauty, where you created a new organisation to manage a single portfolio of cosmetic brands dedicated to women. Is this also what you are concluding in Wella with the targeting of five brands (Wella, System Professional, Sebastian, Clairol/Londa/ Kadus, Nioxin)?
AMK: There are similarities between my business approach to what I was doing before and what I am doing now from a portfolio standpoint. In this sense, I am a very strong believer that, at the end of the day, our responsibility as a big company is to show that we can drive market innovation and growth. By having the right portfolio of brands we enable any salon or any retailer to attract more consumers by casting a wider net. So one of my agenda points is to focus on having the right brand portfolio that is attractive to salons and their clients. Another goal is to have a business model that I can show to salons, one that enables them to perfectly serve their clients and grow by having more than one brand. I’m not saying that salons have to have all of our five brands, that include Wella, Sassoon, Clairol, Sebastian or Nioxin. What we can demonstrate to salons is that as they expand their offer of brands and services, they have growth numbers that exceed the market average. We can prove with figures that have no exceptions and no asterisks.
Smartphone
Esteticainterview!
Adil Mehboob-Khan with EsteticaNetwork publisher Roberto Pissimiglia, during their meeting in Geneva.
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... media will play a critical role. We are very committed and continue to invest in communication
RP: Research is essential to your strategies: how important is research to maintaining leadership today, above all in times like now, when turnovers are diminishing?
AMK: I think it’s even more important to invest in research. I believe that in times when some markets are contracting, we have to play offensively to drive more client traffic and to drive more consumption to salons. If you diversify a portfolio, it also meets different income levels in a salon, but it’s also very important to have innovative new offers that can be used to drive the buzz, fuel new ideas and create new services. So you will see an acceleration of our innovation going forward, not a more conservative approach just because some of the markets are tight. Frankly, this is a historical position for us. It’s not a new strategy: to fuel innovation in moments of crisis. RP: You have continuously invested in Education and Trend Vision. How strategic are other events and trade fairs for your business, and how do you see the future of trade fairs overall?
AMK: I think Wella has always had the reputation of a company that is strongly committed to education and takes an almost institutional role in training the hairstylists of tomorrow. There is, however, an interesting symmetry, which I’m glad you pointed out. As P&G has a ‘hiring from within’ policy, everybody who is in P&G has grown from within P&G. That has allowed us to have a commitment to coaching and education and training our own people. It’s also part of our reputation, or record as a company. So I think that we are well-equipped, both because of our external heritage, but also because of our internal mantra, to continue to have stylist education as something essential that we fuel.
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At the same time we have to look at how to modernise Education so stylists can get the type of training they want, but innovative educational technologies will never be a replacement for major events and fairs. Events are where we can really rally and motivate and excite the industry in a way that you can do only when we’re all together face-to-face. They are also very often industry reunions that succeed in boosting the spirit of the industry. Then we have Trend Vision, an approach that I find incredibly engaging because it is a competition as well as a demonstration of creativity and ambition for stylists around the world. It’s a competition, but it is founded on the wonderful spirit of people showing their creative side. So we will continue to operate education, events and fairs, and I think we have the right ethos to be the best at that. RP: And the use of technology in Education?
Technologies play an increasingly important role, not just in Education. As Education is so essential, one key question we ask ourselves is, how can our education reach more stylists, more easily? That’s why we invest in new tools such as E-education that can be accessed more easily by more stylists. Or how can we not just better train, but also better equip salons with tools that help them to give a more tailored consultation to their clients. Another example is that we are equipping more and more of our sales reps with iPads that contain key information and tools in a very playful and inspirational format to share with salons. RP: We cannot avoid asking about the extensive crisis that we are experiencing. How did your Group close 2011? What repercussions did you perceive? Previsions for 2012?
AMK: We do not disclose individual growth and size numbers, but I have seen some optimistic numbers even for some countries that were in a deeper crisis, like Greece for example. I have seen that the trend is beginning to flatten out and change and I have seen some countries that for us have been almost immune to the crisis, even in light of market decline. Our biggest country today is the US. We are growing shares in the US, and we are growing our business in the US. While the US still isn’t back to the levels of growth that it had a few years ago. I would like to emphasise something I said before – the role of
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having the right offer in salons, the right mix of brands and services for their clients to help salons prosper. In the countries where we’ve had a very good acceptance of our portfolio, we’ve been able to beat the trend. So it’s the salons with the better assortment that are growing even when the market is flat. Then there’s a region like the Far East which is a good example of where the markets have continued to grow strongly overall, one reason being that they are still opening many salons. I’m quite optimistic about the future and about real market growth reigniting quite uniformly over the next twelve months. RP: With the Wella 2012 mission – what are you aiming at? Which projects are you working on?
AMK: In 2012, one of the brands that is going to see great activity is Wella, overall… and particularly Wella Color. We will have some really big innovations and breakthrough technology on our colour side and that for us numerically, will be one of our big events. Very recently we launched both our Sebastian and our Clairol lines, so we’re very much in the mode of leveraging this recent activity. One of the brands that is of high interest to me and has exceeded my expectations so far is Nioxin, which of course is a recent acquisition. It is a brand that has truly proven to have a place all its own in the salon. So salons are finding that it’s a major driver of new services and income. The acceptance and the speed at which this product is growing is remarkable. Those are just some of the highlights. RP: It is always more strategic to make marketing plans that involve clients. What is the role of communication in your corporate programme?
AMK: I would say that we continue to drive our brands through awareness, so media will play a critical role. We are very committed and continue to invest in communication. That is also another example of how we don’t hold back even in difficult times. If we feel the markets are not growing, we have the opposite reaction. We feel
we have to invest to help the markets grow. Our priority remains the stylist and our ability to give the stylist the information that he or she needs to have their clients try new experiences, be aware of what’s out there, be a bit more courageous. I think Estetica is a good partner to continue to have a strong presence on the trade media as we go forward. RP: What message would you like to send to the readers of all 26 editions of Estetica worldwide?
AMK: I want to say one thing about Estetica, because you are not just the most global and the most far reaching trade magazine - and I say “just” in quotation marks, because that would already be phenomenal - you’re also the voice of the industry. There is also the fact that you are a family of several generations that has invested in this industry. So I think that you have a credibility that goes beyond what other businesses would have, because your family has continuously invested and innovated for generations. I find that a very powerful statement, and it distinguishes you from everybody else.
Adil Mehboob-Khan with Sylvie Moreau, General Manager, Global Salon Professional, at last year’s ITVA in New York. The next International Trend Vision Award will take place in Madrid, the 28th of October.
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Growing
Galaxy
Based in the UK, Paul Stoneham is ghd’s CEO. In an exclusive interview with Estetica magazine he talks about brand identity, education and some exciting plans in the field of research and development. by Gary Kelly
F
or just over three years, Paul Stoneham has headed up ghd’s worldwide operations as CEO - a truly definitive period in the brand’s incredible success story. We interviewed Paul specifically to discover more about ghd and its future direction.
Paul, ghd is loved by the professional stylist as much as it is by the consumer, please tell us something about ghd brand positioning… professional or consumer?
Firstly, ghd is a professional styling brand and our vision is for it to become the number one styling brand used and recommended by hairstylists across the world. We are currently focusing on putting professional stylists the centre of our business. When I took the company over three years ago, we went on a journey to rediscover our roots and layout the path for future development – being a stylist-centric company and driving the brand forward through stylist recommendation and usage. Professional stylists are what made the ghd brand strong and healthy when it started out ten years ago, with clients discovering it through that route rather than by direct consumer marketing. Essentially, we are therefore a professional brand which consumers happen to have access to through hair salons and a small number of premium retail outlets. So no plans for direct consumer retailing…
No, none at all. It would be easy to allow ourselves to be seduced into marketing through mass channels, but I’d much rather trade that business off for maintaining our loyalty towards professional stylists. How have you seen the brand develop over the past three years?
Our main focus has been on innovation which is centred on building and growing the quality of the brand. With that in mind we have recently created our new research and development centre in Cambridge. This is the technological hub where we do the design and development of new and existing programmes. The first product to come out of the new centre was our professional hairdryer - ghd air - which initially launched in November 2011. What’s new in the world of ghd’s educational programme?
Our newly re-built educational programme focuses on
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both how to use the product in new and creative ways, but also through another programme called Breakthrough Salon Service, which is a partnership service with our top salon retailers and clients around the world. Retailing is a massive revenue opportunity for salons, and we want to support them in every way we can to grow this side of their business. We are also re-launching our website this spring which, as well as providing educational and technical support to professionals, will also provide a forum for showcasing creative work. This is especially for stylists who are early on in their careers and therefore don’t have the resources to fund this kind of exposure or set up their own photoshoot. We are also developing plans to open a brand new international brand home in London in the near future. Our objective is for this to be not only a centre of education, but also a photographic studio for inspirational work and a creative meeting place where professionals can connect with each other. Looking to the future, how are you intending to expand the business globally in terms of market share and expansion into new territories?
Our business is currently 90 percent focused on our core ghd styler, which we launched 10 years ago and then re-launched 12 months ago. With that, we’re re-inventing how styling is done as well as expanding into new styling base categories with the launch of the professional hairdryer – a tool which perfectly complements the styler and one which we believe is the highest quality, most powerful hairdryer on the market today. Along with our range of brushes and wet-line styling products, it means we can take full ownership of the professional styling process. Geographically, we’ve been looking and developing our existing 14 key markets around the world – we are typically the salon channel market leader in 13 of 14 territories we’re competing in. One of our main drives for 2012 and
2013 is also to expand into new territories. An international trade publication such as Estetica provides us with an all-important vehicle through which we can reach out and engage with new markets. What is unique about ghd, as a brand and as a product?
The quality of our products both in terms of the way they look and feel, as well as the technology that is built inside them. We are also unique in that we are never looking to compete with the major manufacturing houses – we don’t go head-to-head with them and we don’t want to do what they do. Our aim is always to provide stylists with a tool that they can be experimental and creative with – which complements their skills and expertise. They learn how to use ghd from a technical and practical perspective and then discover their own infinite possibilities!
“Cool Brand” ghd celebrated their 10th anniversary at the Grimaldi Forum in sumptuous Monte Carlo
“People are at the heart of our company and hairdressers are the soul of our brand.” Paul Stoneham, Monte Carlo 2011.
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Hairdressers
in red L’Oréal celebrates 10 years of Hairdressers Against AIDS and commemorates World AIDS Day with a dazzling Red Ribbon Rendezvous.
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his year marks the 10th anniversary of the L’Oréal Hairdressers Against AIDS (HAA) initiative – a global drive among hairdressers to raise awareness of HIV/AIDS, AIDS prevention and the social role they can play in communities. The programme gives hairdressers a voice to engage their clients on this critical issue. To celebrate this milestone and further educate local hairdressers on how they can help tackle AIDS in their communities, L’Oréal South Africa invited stylists from across the country to attend its glamorous Red Ribbon Rendezvous. The event was held at Modiva in Johannesburg on 30 November 2011, and culminated in a countdown at midnight to 1 December – World AIDS Day.
The issue of AIDS and the difference hairdressers can make in fighting the pandemic was addressed by guest speaker Jane Maclaren-Taylor, General Manager of L’Oréal South Africa’s Professional Products Division. She highlighted that the initiative has come a long way since inception in 2001, and has expanded to 35 countries. Hairdressers Against AIDS will continue to expand to other countries as long as HIV and AIDS exist. On the night Jane commented: “So you may ask yourself why we’re targeting hairdressers with this programme. Well it’s because in addition to providing professional services, you often act as a confidant to your clients. You build a trusting
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Hairdressers and industry figures partied the night away in true South African style.
relationship, and this is a great platform for you to educate your clients about social issues. Not many people have such a privileged relationship with their clients and not many people see and touch as many clients per year as a hairdresser, so you are very powerful and you have been given a voice. This is the reason why we want you to be agents of change.” Jane reminded stylists that there are several interactive education tools available to educate their clients about HIV and AIDS. Four powerful training videos were also developed and before they were showcased to the stylists Jane reminded them about the mission for World AIDS Day. Go out there and use your voice for a beautiful world without AIDS. Together we can make a difference. Chantelle Lavender, a passionate and inspiring motivational speaker, shared insights from her personal journey of how HIV changed her life when her mother
passed away from AIDS. Chantelle is a 36 year old mother of two boys. She is the Operations Manager at Reality Wellness Group and her deep passion for HIV is driven by personal experience. Chantelle highlighted her experiences around HIV and how her mother had to live with the challenges of not being diagnosed correctly and receiving treatment early. The key message in Chantelle’s story was how we stigmatise against people living with HIV/AIDS but many times we don’t know the story of the person behind the disease, and the challenges that they face and have had to live with. A new perspective on how HIV and AIDS affects the lives of people, was explored in Denzel Edgar’s one-man show, The truth about you. He also incorporated song, as the play was developed when he began to wonder what theme song Aids would sing if it had a voice - I Got You Babe, he reckons.
Playing the virus itself, Edgar tells the crowd how simple humans make his conquests. You use alcohol then feel frisky and promiscuous, you take drugs that spread him from one user to the next, you go on business trips and decide to love the one you’re with. It’s rich in irony and humor, getting the message across by relating directly to people in the audience rather than berating them with scary facts and figures. The show was the only theatre production to be included in the presidential address for World AIDS Day in 2010 and has received critical acclaim for its contribution to the HIV and AIDS discourse in the country. Partygoers were treated to drinks and snacks, and a host of lucky draws were held where various spot prizes were up for grabs. Participants in a dance off stood the chance of winning a luxury cruise for two people, courtesy of Starlight Cruises. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 1 01
MITCH Men Paul Mitchell launches their new men’s professional hair care line. Style isn’t born. It’s groomed.
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The event was a sensorial experience. Guests were able to touch, feel and experience the range of products.
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outh Africa was painted yellow and black as Paul Mitchell launched the exciting new men’s range; MITCH. ESTETICA attended the launch on Tuesday, 7 February 2012, at the trendy Blake’s Bar in Cape Town. Hair stylists and industry figures were welcomed with complimentary drinks, snacks and a gift on arrival.
Hair Prominence, Johann from La Mer Creations and Graham from Palladium Hair Co. were invited to talk about a specific product in the range, that they had the opportunity to work with.
The MITCH product range consists of six styling aids, and a shampoo and conditioner in one.
They demonstrated on models that had graced the covers of Men’s Health magazines. After having their hair styled, the models dressed in jeans and Paul Mitchell capes, (dramatically whipped off their capes to reveal their chiselled chests and protruding abs).
To demonstrate the different styling aids, guest stylists Dwight from Edge for Men, Delin from Palladium Hair Co., Wade from Yemaya Spa, Adriaan from
The models walked into the hysterical audience carrying trays displaying products from the MITCH range for stylists to touch and feel.
Finally, the DJ got onto the decks and hyped guests partied the night away in a true hairstylist style.
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hair
lo ss
ESTETICA explores the various causes and contributors to hair thinning and hair loss in women, men, children and adolescents. We receive expert advice on making a diagnosis and the relevent treatment from Trichologist, Elma Titus and Dr Kevin Alexander.
For most people, loosing their hair is a very disturbing experience. People having to deal with excessive hair loss, baldness or scalp problems often feel embarrassed and search for the answer to their prayers. Often, being gullible and buying into the constant advertising of ‘miracle’ products. Cindy Horton chats to Elma Titus, Cape Town based Trichologist, on the reasons why people seek professional help and the benefits there of. At what point should someone consider seeing a professional about a hair problem?
If someone is experiencing excessive hair loss, patches of baldness or hair loss, scaly scalp problems, itching and hair breakage. Please explain the process that your clients go through during a first time consultation?
Seeking
During the consultation, I establish the nature of the problem. The hair is a very sensitive “barometer” of imbalances in the body. Factors such as poor nutrition,
Treatment Estetica puts Trichology under the microscope and looks into the profession, which is being explored more frequently by people experiencing hair loss and scalp conditions.
systemic problems, medications and stress can affect the hair and skin. I identify the cause of the problem before treatment starts. As part of diagnosis, I may analyse the hair microscopically or have it analysed for its mineral levels, or suggest blood tests. Why would you perform a Microscopic analysis on the hair?
To assess structural damage, establish the rate of hair loss, determine the severity of hair loss, confirm the presence of fungus and identify genetic problems. What happens after diagnosis?
Once the problem has been identified, I will discuss the cause with the patient and decide whether the problem requires topical and or internal treatment and, if so, which treatment would be most beneficial. I work closely with specialists in a variety of fields; endocrinologists, dermatologist and general practitioners in order to advise suitable treatment as well as hair transplantation and hair care.
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Inadequate iron levels
Iron deficiency arises from a nutritional deficiency of iron. Low iron levels results in the hair feeling dry and can become lighter in colour. For optimal hair growth, ferritin levels (indicative of iron storage levels in the body) should be maintained. Genetic
The development of androgenetic thinning depends on genetic predisposition (This thinning is inherited from either parent). Thinning begins at the time of menopause and after a hysterectomy. Medication
Even younger women are experiencing hair loss because of contraceptives, certain hormone replacement therapies, high blood pressure medications, antidepressants and certain cholesterol medication. Check the side effects of any medication that you’re currently taking, and the consequences of cessation of medication intake. The body experiences as much change when you cease medication abruptly. What is a mineral analysis of the hair used for?
To assess the levels of such minerals as calcium, magnesium, zinc, copper, manganese, iodine, chromium, lead, mercury, aluminum, cadmium and arsenic in the hair. These levels relate to body levels and deficient or excess levels can suggest nutritional or systematic problems that are affecting the hair and skin. This is more relevant than blood tests. Explain the main contributors to hair loss? Thyroid problem
Under activity of the thyroid gland can lead to hair loss, brittle hair and nails, dry skin, lethargy, slowness of speech and weight gain. Hyperthyroidism, which is the overproduction of thyroid hormones, is characterised by hair loss, oily skin, weight loss, increased appetite, hyperactivity, excessive sweating, rapid heart action, constant hot flushes, muscle weakness and fatigue.
For most people, loosing their hair is a very disturbing experience. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 107
The thinning usually begins at the time of menopause or after a hysterectomy.
Invest in a good vitamin, multi mineral, essential fatty acid and amino acid supplement and always check packaging for ingredients. Hormonal
Dihydrotestosterone (DHT) is the androgen that influences genetic hair loss and the loss is often triggered by a change in sex hormone levels. Diet
Your diet needs to contain rich proteins as hair consists of keratin, which is made up of protein. Stress
Stress can trigger hair thinning because it increases cortisone levels. Hair loss itself also causes a lot of stress. How does hair loss differ in men and women?
Genetic thinning in women (androgenetic alopecia) is a condition characterised by thinning of hair in the front/ top areas of the scalp. This thinning does not lead to baldness. What happens is that the growing phase of many of the hairs in the area becomes shorter, producing shorter finer hairs. However, many of the hairs in the front/top areas are untouched by this process so that the general appearance of the scalp is of a thinning in the area in question. The thinning usually begins at the time of menopause or after a hysterectomy. At these times, the change in the sex
hormonal balance gives the male sex hormones (androgens) more influence and brings about the thinning. Genetic thinning can also be triggered after pregnancy, but this must not be confused with the temporary diffuse hair loss that can occur after giving birth. In the past, women in their twenties or thirties seldom suffered genetic thinning unless a hormonal imbalance was present. However, younger women with genetic thinning are now being seen and one reason for this increase can be the oral contraceptive, antidepressants and cholesterol tablets. However, the most common type of hair loss in men is termed ‘male pattern thinning’ (MPT) or ‘Androgenetic Alopecia’. This is where recession of the hair occurs at the temples and/or thinning of hair occurs in the front/crown areas of the scalp. The final stage of such a loss leaves a band of hair around the back and sides of the scalp and baldness over the rest of the scalp. MPT is easily recognised by its location on the scalp and by the manner in which it occurs. It is not marked by a rapid loss of hair. What happens is that, with each new hair cycle, the affected hairs do not grow as long and become finer in diameter. Eventually, very small fine hairs, termed vellus hairs, remain. Usually, the whole process takes at least ten years and as long as forty years. MPT usually begins during the late teens and early 20s and affected men are well on the way to baldness by the age of 30. If you have a good head of hair at the age of 30, you probably always will have.
The hair is a sensitive indicator of imbalances within the body
“For more than 22 years, NIOXIN has had a single-minded focus and commitment to providing individuals with real solutions to help them make the most of their hair.” THE POWER OF 3: INSPIRED SCIENCE INNOVATION A close look at hair biology reveals three areas that can impact hair appearance and condition: [1] scalp and hair environment, [2] hair growth cycles, and [3] the change of hair structure over time. These three factors can also greatly influence the appearance of hair thinning. NIOXIN developed the following new definition of hair thinning based on scientific, stylist and consumer insights: Thinning Hair = A Poor Scalp Environment + Fewer Hair Strands + Finer Hair Strands. NIOXIN then approached the formulation of its products by linking the three components of thinning hair to these factors, and then formulating real science-based answers that take into account each of these factors: by cleansing hair and scalp to remove sebum and residues, by conditioning and protecting hair to help reduce hair loss due to breakage, and by thickening each hair strand. IN-USE PERFORMANCE NIOXIN’s systems of products and treatments have been shown to effectively address thin-looking hair. In fact, 70% of users noticed their hair looked more thick and dense after just two weeks. (Independent market research conducted among consumers concerned about thinning hair.) And, clinical testing shows that the NIOXIN Density Restoration Treatment is so effective it helps reduce hair fallout (due to breakage and unhealthy environmental action) by an average of 54%. NIOXIN® system collections can be found in selected salons nationwide. For more information on NIOXIN technologies and how they help address thinning hair or to locate the nearest NIOXIN® salon, call (011) 305 1600 or visit www.twincare.co.za
www.twincare.co.za Call us on (011) 305 1600 for more information Find us on Facebook
Estetica one page Untitled-1 1 April 2012.indd 1
4/3/2012 9:13:44 AMAM 2012/04/03 10:11
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Crowns ESTETICA explores the different hair loss conditions that affect children and adolescents. Johannesburg based Dr Alexander offers insight into various treatments and how to deal with a diagnosis.
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t is one thing having to deal with a hereditary form of hair loss that develops throughout your life. That you have no one else but your father to blame for. But how do you go about dealing with your child loosing their hair at a young age? Dr Alexander, MD of Dr Alexander’s Hair Loss Clinic in Bedfordview Johannesburg, helps us understand the various hair loss conditions that trouble children and adolescents and the appropriate treatments. The most common childhood hair loss conditions include: Telogen Effluvium – a sudden and dramatic loss of hair following a traumatic event or illness especially if there has been a high fever. The hair loss is temporary and grows back within a few months. Tinea Capitis – A fungal infection of the scalp which leads to bald patches. There is usually a visible sore or inflammation in the patch. It responds to anti-fungal treatment and is not seen very commonly. Loose Anagen syndrome – First described in 1984, Loose Anagen syndrome is a genetic condition in which faulty keratinisation of the inner root sheath leads to poorly anchored anagen hairs. The anagen phase of the hairs is short leading to the premature and painless loss of hairs which are reduced in length. There is no treatment presently available. Lupus Erythematosis – An auto-immune hair loss condition seen very rarely in teenage girls who present with systemic lupus erythematosis (SLE). This also responds to intrascalp cortisone injections. Alopecia areata – An auto-immune condition in which hair falls out in patches suddenly and dramatically in a matter of days to weeks, due to an antibody attack on the hair follicles. The child can lose all their scalp hair (Alopecia Totalis) or all the body hair (Alopecia Universalis). It usually responds only to intra-scalp cortisone injections but can also grow back spontaneously in rare cases.
2012/04/02 9:49 AM
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Would you recommend the use of essential oils?
No, whereas I see no harm in the use of essential oils, when it comes to hair loss conditions, I have never experienced them to be of any benefit. Trichotillomania is a common condition experienced by children and adults. What is the cause and how does it differ between various age groups?
How does Alopecia Areata differ from Androgenic Alopecia?
Androgenetic Alopecia (male or female pattern baldness) is seen at its earliest in teenagers, since it only begins after puberty. The rise in the Dihydrotestosterone (DHT) hormone after puberty and its interaction with your genetically-inherited follicle receptors, results in the shrinking of the follicles and the subsequent thinning of your hair. This is by far the most common condition that I treat at my Hair loss Clinic. There have been huge strides made in the last ten years with respect to prevention and reversal of this condition with medicines (prescription tablets and topical lotions). The earlier you treat it, the better. I have never had a patient under age 20 who has failed to respond to medical treatment for this condition. How do you advise parents to go about dealing with a child that has been diagnosed with Alopecia Areata?
This depends upon the age and maturity of the child. I have found through experience that the only effective treatment for Alopecia Areata in adults and children is to inject cortisone into the scalp. I normally do a series of seven injections spaced over about eight weeks. This treatment is very effective as we normally start seeing the beginning of re-growth after about one month. Obviously, very young children would be traumatised by this type of treatment, even though I do go to great lengths to make it as painless as possible. I have found that children from 7 or 8 years of age upwards can handle the injections and so I normally advise parents of very young children with Alopecia Areata to bring their child back to me when they reach 7 or 8 years of age. Topical cortisone creams can be tried in young children but they are very unlikely to be successful. Of course, one can also get spontaneous re-growth of hair in Alopecia Areata patients, but this is quite rare.
Trichotillomania is a condition of hair pulling linked to the psychological problem of Obsessive-compulsive personality disorder. It occurs almost exclusively in teenage girls and young women who are ambitious, intelligent and highly-strung. Even though they know that they are damaging their scalps and mutilating themselves by pulling out their hair, the psychological urge to do this and the satisfaction which results from it, is simply irresistible. It seems to be more of a psychological disorder. How would you go about treating it?
I have treated Trichotillomania successfully in many patients over the years. I use a two-pronged approach, treating the personality disorder with effective prescription drugs, whilst at the same time treating the hair and scalp with specific medical treatments to reverse and repair the damage that has been done. My Trichotillomania patients visit me monthly for comparative scalp photographs, in a similar way to how things work at “Weight watchers�.
But how do you go about dealing with your child losing their hair at a young age. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 111
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ESTETICA gets advice from two local hair stylists and salon owners on ways in which to deal with clients experiencing hair loss, thinning and scalp problems.
Hair loss can be emotionally devastating. Hair professionals are in a unique position to help and support their clients through the grief, embarrassment and fear of hair loss, giving them the guidance they need to cope. ESTETICA chats to Adriaan Strydom from Hair Prominence and Johann from La Mer Creations on their in salon strategies towards hair loss. What advise would you offer a client that was concerned with the thinning of their hair?
Johann, Owner, La Mer Creations
I would advise my client to start using the right products to prevent any further hair loss, “prevention is better than cure’’. Hair loss and scalp conditions often make the sufferer self conscious and embarrassed. It is one thing having to assist a client who is aware of their condition, but how do you inform someone who has not realised what is happening on top of their head? Adriaan Strydom, Owner, Hair Prominence
Adriaan Strydom, Owner, Hair Prominence
Thinning hair is much more of a concern to those of us that are experiencing thinning, than to those who have full heads of hair realise. Hairdressers need to have empathy towards the client that has genuine concerns. We need to explain the different types of hair loss and inform the client on what type of thinning they are experiencing. Explain the vast range of products that can help in this regard and that stressing about it can only worsen the thinning process.
As professionals it is part of our responsibility to be honest with our clients in all regards, especially when it comes to thinning hair because there are products that can stop or slow the thinning process. The sooner the client is informed, the sooner they can be placed on a hair care program at home. Johann, Owner, La Mer Creations
I am always honest with my clients and in return they trust my opinion, and capabilities to style their hair. With that in mind, I can be free and open to inform my clients of any
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What course of action and products would you recommend for various hair loss, thinning and scalp conditions? Adriaan Strydom, Owner, Hair Prominence
All the major hair companies have a hair thinning program. These products are designed to cleanse and detox the scalp of excess sebum and contain ingredients like argentine to stimulate blood flow to the hair follicle. Collagen build up is a big problem; they have designed ingredients that keep the collagen soft around the hair follicle which maintains the growth phase of the hair.
Johann, Owner, La Mer Creations
There are so many products on the market to assist clients with preventing hair loss and thinning hair. The product on the top of my list is NIOXIN. They are one of the fastest growing product brands internationally. There are three basic steps available in each system and for various hair loss conditions. The range also includes styling products to create fullness to thinning hair.
Have you encountered a sensitive situation, in this regard, within your salon and if so, how did you deal with it? Adriaan Strydom, Owner, Hair Prominence
Thinning hair clients are very sensitive about their hair loss. I also suffer from hair loss but have it under control with my hair care products, so I share empathy with these clients. Thinning hair is such a common problem and we have so many cases of thinning hair both with staff and clients that most of the hairdressers are very qualified in dealing with this problem in a very sensitive manner. Johann, Owner, La Mer Creations
I can honestly say that the majority of my clients ask me if I have noticed any problems with regards to their scalp or the thinning of their hair as well as inform me of any hair loss experienced. When encountered with a situation like this, I believe that the client should be treated with respect, confidentially and accordingly.
Are you and your staff knowledgeable about the causes and contributors of hair loss? Adriaan Strydom, Owner, Hair Prominence
Yes. I think that thinning hair problems have become such a part of our everyday work that every hairdresser has become a lot more knowledgeable than a couple of years ago. Also the major hair companies that supply these products have contributed to the education of hairdressers regarding this problem. Johann, Owner, La Mer Creations
My staff and I are well educated on the causes and contributors to hair thinning and hair loss. We also try to gain as much knowledge on the various products available to assist our clients with the correct form of treatment.
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problems with his/her scalp and hair. Trust is the most important thing in our relationship with our clients.
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A quick April wrap-up of 19-21 Intercharm Professional past and upcoming 21-22 Beauty Forum Hungary events 30 April-1 May on the world Revlon Style Masters scene. Mark your date May books! 5-7 Cosmosalón Moscow (Russia) www.intercharmpro.ru
Budapest (Hungary) www.health-and-beauty.com
Budapest (Hungary) www.stylemasters.com
REPORT
28 - 30 January Intl. Salon & Spa Expo Long Beach www.probeauty.org/isse/mw
More than 40,000 beauty professionals and more than 400 leading brands confirmed the PBA’s ISSE Long Beach the West Coast’s most popular total beauty event, where the NAHA Stage starred such greats as Damien Carney, Steve Elias, Jake Thompson, and Charlie Price. This year’s edition also saw the expansion of the ever-popular EstheticsAmerica & Wellness Pavilion. The ISSE show concept will arrive in the Chicago market for ISSE Midwest – Nov. 4 – 5, 2012, expected to be the industry’s biggest fall/holiday show going forward.
Santiago de Chile (Chile) www.cosmosalon.cl
13-14 Hair&Beauty
Frankfurt (Germany) www.hair-beauty.messefrankfurt.com
NEXT
22 - 24 April International Beauty Show New York - www.ibsnewyork.com/
Breaking all records, with a star-studded stage and classes and exhibits galore. IBS is where you want to be!
Packed to capacity with more than 57,200 beauty professionals, the 2011 IBS New York confirmed that the beauty industry is strong and healthy. And now the 2012 editions promises surpass these figures, with Main Stage Performances by such iconic artists as Nick Arrojo, Michael O’Rourke, Martin Parsons, Lisa Yamasaki, and Woody and Amy Michleb, and more than 150 educational classes and workshop. This year’s Master Barber Competitions will be hosted by MLB and sponsored by Mr. Beauty. Plus visitors can expect more exhibits, products and tools, make-up and cosmetics than ever before, as well as free access to New York’s leading spa show with your IBS New York ticket! Nothing to lose and everything to gain! See you there!
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29 – 31 May Beautyworld Middle East Dubai - www.beautyworldme.com
Everything is looking rosy in the Middle East beauty and care market, with the UAE and Saudi Arabia continuing to lead the way. And in keeping with such optimistic news, Beautyworld Middle East 2012 will be approximately 20 percent bigger than the previous edition, changing its venue to the brand new Sheikh Saeed Halls and Trade Centre Arena at the Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre. Wella Professional, P & G International, OPI, Essie, Creative Nail Design (CND), Alessandro and LPG are amongst some of the major international names that will be present at Beautyworld Middle East 2012. So mark your calendars to participate in this exciting event and enter the growing market, which Euromonitor International predicts wil grow by 35 percent between 2009 and 2014.
16-17 Luxe Pack New York New York (USA) www.luxepacknewyork.com
All around the world, industry events serve to inspire and educate
20-21 Intercoiffure Spring Symposium
NEXT
Miami Beach (USA) www.intercoiffure.us
2 – 4 June Premiere Orlando Orlando - www.premiereorlandoshow.biz
June 3-4 Ebio
Guadalajara (Mexico) www.ebio.com.mx
9-11 IBS Las Vegas Las Vegas (USA) www.ibslasvegas.com
9-12 Intercoiffure World Congress Rome (Italy) www.intercoiffure.net
The place to be for the latest, best and all other superlatives in education.
Premiere Orlando will once again feature amazing hair education and spectacular Main Stage events, in-depth colour training in Hair Color, and more nail education than any other trade show. Plus, the Premiere DAYSPA Conference will feature make-up, skin care and massage education and much more! With a grand total of over 385 education sessions, everyone should be able to satisfy their whim for learning. This year, Patrick Cameron, the Intercoiffure Global Educator Award Winner, will be on the Main Stage. Then there will also be two new evening events, as Behindthechair.com presents RAW, the all new live judging hair show, and John Paul Mitchell Systems hosts the MITCH event at the Orlando House of Blue. on Sunday, June 3rd. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 115
preview MONTHbyMONTH
Redken Haircolor principles & New Chromatics Ammonia Free permanent color Bloemfontein, East London and Port Elizabeth 16 April, Johannesburg and Durban 12 June, Cape Town 13 June
Principles of consultation Bloemfontein, East London and Port Elizabeth 17 April
Communication strategies Bloemfontein, East London and Port Elizabeth 17 April
Redken color specialist exam Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 23 April
Haircare collection Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 24 April, Bloemfontein, East London and Port Elizabeth 4 June
Styling collection Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 24 April, Bloemfontein, East London and Port Elizabeth 4 June
Pureology pure discovery Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 25 April and 21 May
Clientele management Johannesburg and Durban 7 May
Communication strategies Johannesburg and Durban 7 May
Chromatics color generation Johannesburg 8 May, Durban 14 May
Redken certified haircolourist prep night Johannesburg 8 and 9 May, Durban 15 May
Redken certified haircolourist Durban 16 May
Shades EQ collection Bloemfontein, East London and Port Elizabeth 5 June
Redken for men collection Bloemfontein, East London and Port Elizabeth 5 June
Redken specialist part 1 Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 11 June
preview MONTHbyMONTH
Redken specialist part 2
Operator Pro
Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 18 June
Cape Town 4 June
Haircolor priciples & colour fusion/cover fusion
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Men’s Grooming Cape Town 25 June
Johannesburg and Durban 19 June Cape Town 20 June
Redken specialist part 3 Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 25 June
Color correction Johannesburg and Durban 26 June, Cape Town 27 June
Goldwell Color Zoom East London 16 April, Port Elizabeth 21 May
Fundamental Color 2 Cape Town 23 April
Fundamental Foiling Cape Town 14 May
Color Success
Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Cutting Part 2 Midrand 2 April
Operator Excellence Midrand and Cape Town 23 April
Colour Confidence Part 1 Cape Town 2 April, Midrand 7 May
Essential Cutting Skills 1 Cape Town 7 May
Essential Looks Creative Step-by-Step Durban 9 May, Cape Town 16 May
Colour Confidence Part 2 Durban 2 April, Midrand 14 May, Cape Town 28 May
Cape Town 11 June
Power of Caring
Goldwell Creative
Durban 28 May
Hermanus 18 June
Fundamental Elumen Cape Town 25 June
Biosense Color ABC
Colour Confidence Part 3 Midrand 28 May, Cape Town 25 June
All Rounder Durban 4 June
All Rounder and Upstyling Cape Town 4 June
Johannesburg 11 June
Milano collection
Upstyling and All About Men Midrand 5 June
Johannesburg 16 April, Bloemfontein 21 May, Cape Town 4 June
Biofactor competition round 1
Challenging Blondes Durban 23 April, Cape Town 14 May, Midrand 12 June
Johannesburg 14 May
Joico
Essential Cutting Skills 2 Cape Town 18 June
Fundamental Color Cape Town 2 April and 12 May
Executive Color Correction Cape Town 16 April and 21 May, Johannesburg 16 April
Master the Grey, Bombshell Blondes and Rocking Reds Cape Town 7 May and 11 June, Johannesburg 11 June
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 117
Estetica and ExclusiveBrandsTorino
EsteticaNetwork has entered the exclusive new luxury network, ExclusiveBrandsTorino. The network of companies founded by the Industrial Union, works towards the development and globalisation of high class brands. The aim is to offer specific support to a carefully-selected group of top companies in order to develop and globalise their products and brands. EsteticaNetwork is the only publishing company within the group of fourteen leader companies of various industries including Pininfarina, Fisico, Laura Tonatto, Aurora, Azimut-Benetti, Mattioli Gioelli, and Pastiglie Leone. These totally different sectors share a particular clientele and strong international bent, standing out from the rest because of the quality of their products and services, and leading the market in creativity, innovation and research. “I feel extremely honoured to be included in the prestigious brand line-up of the new ExclusiveBrandsTorino network, which intends to lay down a new business strategy based on worldwide recognition,” said Roberto Pissimiglia, editor and publisher of the EsteticaNetwork. “Luxury, technology and design have never been so united before in representing creative and business excellence and it’s significant that the network has been founded in Turin in an important year for Italy. The debut of ExclusiveBrandsTorino gives further power to EsteticaNetwork’s ambassadorial role.” Thanks to this multi-sector synergy (the first organised network in Italy for top range products) the member companies will work together to promote and enhance their brands abroad, identifying new commercial strategies and market opportunities.
Sanctuary Spa
The luxurious and beautifully restored Banksia Boutique Hotel in Rosebank, Cape Town, celebrated the opening of their latest offering, Sanctuary Spa. From full-service treatments to quick and easy express combos, using Phytomer, local beauty Moya and Essie products, there’s something for everyone. The spa itself is tastefully decorated to calm and soothe the body and mind, and transport you into a state of tranquility.
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Men across the world got hairy for a good cause
Dermalogica Passion
Cherie Keating, Managing Director of Dermalogica, recognised the importance of commemorating Dermalogica’s 25th anniversary in a memorable way. The Dermalogica team set out for Ludwig’s Roses to name a rose after Dermalogica as a symbol of the company’s growth and to meaningfully acknowledge the brands 25th anniversary. “When it came to picking this rose, it was the very first one I picked almost instinctively and landed up coming back to it in the end,” says Keating. “I loved that it starts quite pink and ages to a beautiful off-white ‘vintage pink’ with so much to it. It’s not ordinary, it’s unique, it’s strong and firm, robust, resilient and full-bodied, just like us.” The rose that was chosen to carry out this honour has fittingly been named Dermologica Passion.
On 1 November, the start of Movember, clean-shaven men registered on www.movember.com to take part in a worthy cause. For the rest of the month, these men known as “Mo Bros”, groomed, trimmed and waxed their way to promoting men’s health, particularly prostate and testicular cancer. The Mo Bros raised funds by seeking sponsorship for their hairy upper lips. Since its humble beginnings in Australia in 1999, Movember has grown to be a global movement, inspiring more than a million Mo Bros and Mo Sistas to participate. South African Mo Bros raised funds for the Cancer Association of South Africa (CANSA). According to Lorraine Govender, the Cansa KwaZulu-Natal provincial manager, about 3 500 men in South Africa die of prostate cancer every year. South African streets were adorned with men sporting long, sparse, grizzly and often oddly shaped moustaches. Looking ridiculous or not, we applaud all the brave men who took part.
Reto Style Lounge
The Style Lounge and their team ended 2011, with an incredible Glam Event at Stonehurst Mountain Estate in Cape Town. The venue was packed with women (and some men) who were eager to see the latest styles created by Reto and his team. All the models for the event were clients of the Style Lounge and dressed by Hendrik Vermeulen Couturier. The evening was created as a relationship networking driven concept inspired by Reto as a new way of bringing business, fashion and people together. Goodie bags were supplied by Sebastian, the contents filled with goodies from Woolworths, Calvin Klein, Bulgvari, Dermalogica, Estée Lauder, Sh’zen, various magazines and Sobeit gifts. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 119
Joya Agate Drusy Rings
Since Roberto Cavalli sent agate pendants down the runway for his RTW Spring 2011 collection, they have become popular in summer accessories. Local handcrafted jewellery manufacturers Joya have created the breath taking Agate Drusy rings. Raw agate stone has been cut into a dramatic ring with a natural face and smooth sides, and is available in pink, blue, purple and white. This is the must-have accessory for the season.
The 21st ICD World Congress to be held in Rome
Rome will host the ICD World Congress from 6 - 13 June. “We are pleased to celebrate, in collaboration with L’Oréal Professionnel and Wella Professionals, our 21st World Congress in the Eternal City,” commented Klaus Peter Ochs, President of Intercoiffure Mondial. Each moment of the congress, from the most worldy to the most technical, will have its own prestigious location, like the studios of Cinecittà, where the great masterpieces of Italian cinema were created. The event – reserved for association members – will include meetings, award ceremonies, fashion shows, work groups, and entertainment, all in the name of beauty, creativity and, above all, globalisation. In fact, more than 1 000 hairdressers from 40 countries are expected, with delegation from North America, Latin America, Europe, Asia, and Oceania. This is a unique opportunity to share professional experiences, analyse the evolution of fashion, and increase your own salon business. The 21st ICD World Congress also dynamically aims to be the scenario where young hairstylists can contribute their own talent as trendsetters. “With Roma 2012, we want to beat all records of participation. This is why we have drafted a special proposal for a reduced entrance fee for young colleagues,” explains Carlo Alberto Rossi, President of ICD Italy – “Likewise, we would like to share the beauty and hospitality of our country with their families: a special fee and a dedicated programme have been developed to have them participate in this Roman event as much as possible.” For more information on registration and the event programme: www.intercoiffuremondialroma2012.it/Evento/SitePages/programma.aspx
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N E W S
Pretoria beauty to represent South Africa
Pretoria born, 22 year old, Melinda Bam was crowned Miss South Africa 2011 on the 10th December 2011, at the Superbowl in Sun City. “I believe this year will offer me an amazing and life altering experience,” said a tangibly excited Melinda Bam in her first ever television interview as Miss SA 2011. Melinda is studying a BCom in Marketing at the University of Pretoria. She believes she has the motivation, ambition and confidence to become an inspirational ambassador to the youth of South Africa. At 1.7 metre tall, Melinda attracted the attention of the judges and the audience. She has previously held titles for Miss Tropika, Me Waterkloof and Candy Girl pageants. Melinda will represent her country in Miss World 2012, and Miss Universe 2012.
International hairstylist graces South African shores Last year saw the launch of the much anticipated Moroccanoil brand in South Africa. Beauty editors and industry figures were invited to experience the charm of: Barcelona-born Antonio Corral Calero, Moroccanoil Artistic Director, and his vision of the world of hair, fashion, and style. Antonio launched his career in 1990, under the tutelage of one of the world’s most renowned masters of hair design, Luis Llongueras, in Spain. Antonio then went on to work with industry leaders in various capitals of the world including Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Helena Rubinstein, MAC, and Lise Watier. Several years ago, Antonio decided to leave Europe and move to Montreal, opening his own salon before joining forces with Moroccanoil in 2007.
Hair clinic
Captonians now have access to a hair clinic. Local Trichologist, Elma Titus, has established a paramedical clinic that specialises in skin and hair problems at the International Skin Institute in Claremont, Cape Town. Philip Kingsley clinical products are used to treat all scalp and hair problems. Elma is available for consultations on Mondays and Tuesdays.
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 121
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2012/03/30 11:49 AM
Professionnel Aminexil 3 L’Oréal Advanced
Nioxin Hair System Kit 1 The 3-Part Systems, from Nioxin, are
designed to cleanse, optimise, and treat the conditions that contribute to your particular form of hair thinning. The Cleanser helps to remove follicleclogging sebum, fatty acids and environmental residues from the scalp skin and hair while providing thickerlooking hair. The Scalp Revitaliser is a lightweight conditioner that helps provide hair resilience and controls moisture balance. Lastly, the Scalp Treatment is a cosmetic product that contains antioxidants and botanicals that help provide a refreshed scalp environment.
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The L’Oréal Professionnel Aminexil Advanced Double Action Programme for Thinning Hair combines two technologies to delay avoidable hair loss. Aminexil technology acts to fight against the rigidification of collagen, which enables the root to be better anchored in the scalp. The Oméga 6 Nutri Complex, an essential fatty acid derivative, acts at the root to stimulate its activity and provide it with necessary elements for its reconstruction. The kit contains 42 doses’, one dose used daily for an intensive programme or a minimum of 3 doses a week for a maintenance programme.
3 L’Oréal Professionnel Density Advanced The nutritive complex with essential actives Oméga-6 and vitamin B3 (PP), found in the L’Oréal Professionnel Density Advanced Densifying Shampoo, helps stimulate cellular activity at the root and fortifies the hair. The formula activates microcirculation of the scalp, creates vigour, strength and density for the hair, and body and texture to fine hair. The hair mass regains density and strength from the root in order to ensure optimum scalp coverage.
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Redken Intra Force The Redken Intra Force collection is a three-pronged, customisable system to promote hair density. The collection includes an in-salon service, two three-step at home regimens and intensive treatments for enhanced benefits. Intra Force contains a combination of Zinc PCA, Aminexil and Arginine to help promote density and delay hair loss. As well as strengthens the hair, stimulates the scalp to boost microcirculation, detoxifies by removing excess sebum and DHT, and delivers essential nutrients to promote healthy scalp and hair. The at-home care offers two systems – one for natural thinning hair and the other for colour-treated hair which include a shampoo, toner and treatment.
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KerastasĂŠ Hair Thinning Intervention with AminexilÂŽ GL The treatment course is a multi-targeted anti-hair thinning solution to counteract the multi-step anti-hair thinning process thanks to new scientific expertise and a new avant-garde molecule. The intensive treatment courses formula is characterised by improved cosmetic elements that does not make the hair greasy or weigh it down while leaving the hair soft to the touch. It is recommended to use Bain Prevention and Densitive GL Spray with Aminexil GL for enhanced results.
Nisim Nisim has developed a proprietary system for extracting active ingredients from herbs which are used in their products to assist in the prevention of hair loss. The range consists of two Deep Cleansing Shampoos which are safe to use on coloured, permed and chemically treated hair. It is important that you use the shampoo daily, and that you wash, rinse and repeat. The first shampoo is for cleansing purposes and the second shampoo is to penetrate slightly deeper to remove DHT and nourish the hair follicle. There is a wide variety of Conditioning Products to suit different hair types. The stimulating extract is available in two different formulas and assists in neautralising the DHT. The extract is a leave-in treatment that needs to be massaged into the scalp twice daily and used until the desired results have been achieved.
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ghd Peacock Collection The stunning ghd Peacock Collection has taken its cue from the striking iridescent finishes that graced the high-end designer runways of Marc Jacobs and Chanel and the bold, gem-coloured hues favoured by Oscar de La Renta and Rodarte. The limited edition is available in three individual jewel colours - sapphire blue, amethyst purple and emerald green.
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Powder Grip 03 Redken’s first-ever hair powder transforms the hair’s structure, creating a matte finish with texture and fullness. A small amount of the advanced highly concentrated formula is needed for great results. Shake it onto the hair to add body, extra “grip” to create updos and is ideal for adding grip to style longer lengths and texture on short cuts.
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Mitch Paul Mitchell has launched a men’s professional hair care line called Mitch. The range caters for all the grooming needs of men. The vast product line includes; Double Hitler sulfate free 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner; Reformer matt finish texturiser; Clean Cut semi-matt styling cream; Barber’s Classic high shine pomade; Steady Grip natural shine gel; Hardwired spiking glue and Construction Paste mesh styler.
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P R O D U C T S
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OSiS Aqua Slide 12 Schwarzkopf The Schwarzkopf OSiS Aqua Slide is a high shine
Goldwell Colourance Express Toning The new Colourance Express Toning from Goldwell assists with gentle blonde refinement, shine and reflection, suppleness and regeneration thanks to technology with Intralipid. The product is available in an easy choice of shades and the processing time is only 5 minutes. The express toning can be used after a full-head bleach, directly after a highlight service and as a refreshment in between highlights.
pomade with an unexpected water-touch consistency and provides the hold of a pomade without a sticky or greasy feeling. The unique formulation is made up of a water-oil base that is infused with Water Mint, which gives the hair a high shine finish. A high molecular Tetra-ester ensures great shape control and performance.
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10 Moroccanoil速 Glimmer Shine Spray Moroccanoil速 Glimmer Shine Spray is an invisible finishing spray infused with argan oil to protect hair from the damaging effects of UV rays and free radicals. It creates a smooth radiant finish while strengthening the hair. The lightweight formula is rich in vitamins and natural elements including Vitamin F (Omega 6), Vitamin A to improve elasticity, Vitamin E to protect against free-radicals, and Phenols to shield against environmental stressors.
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